Change the Front and Rear Brakes on a 2012 Land Rover LR2.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ย. 2024
- Read all the way through for additional "need to know" info.
Thanks to Panda Bear for the heads up on the TTY bolts for the front brakes. The TSM doesn't specifically say the bolts are TTY, but it does say to use new ones up front, and to torque to 200 Nm. It doesn't call for new bolts in the back, and 110 Nm is the call here. They don't cost much, and with the money you are saving, I say replace them.
Changing brake pads and rotors for a Land Rover LR2.
I made this video because my local dealership wanted almost $1000 bucks for just the labor, and another $750.00 for the parts, plus a 2 week wait! I was sure I could just do it myself and save a bundle, and I did! ($550.00 for parts). I wanted to make sure that anyone else facing the same situation had another option, even if they weren't quite sure how to do it.
I am a believer in using your dealership when you can, so this wasn't supposed to be a dig at them, but even with filming, and rain delays, this took me a little more than 3 hours. I could have probably done it in 2 and a half, and I felt like the quoted price was insane for the labor rate on brakes.
In their defense, they were backed up by two weeks, so they may have been trying to price themselves out of the job. If that was the case, it worked!
My dealership quoted $900 per axle on an Evoque. As an FYI (I believe the Evoque is very close to the Freelander/LR2 - the brakes certainly look exactly the same) the caliper bracket bolts must be changed as they are TTY bolts so they are NOT reusable. The service manual clearly states to discard the old ones. At $5 a piece it's not a risk i'd take.
Good call. I looked into it, and it looks you may be right. The TSM says to use new bolts up front, but not on the rear. I am adding this info to the description, and thanks you for the heads up!
thx dude - perfect video - my LR2 has 60k miles on it now so this job is imminent - awesome
Happy it helped!
For your information that plastic plug gives you access to the adjuster for the brake shoes.By using this adjuster you can slacken off the brake shoes to make it easier to remove a sticking set of brake shoes.
At 3:26 - The plug in the rear disc is probably in order to get a screwdriver in to adjust the handbrake shoes, without having to remove the disc!
Thank you. Really must use axle stands to rest the vehicle on, cannot rely on the hydraulic jack alone.
Yeah, you're 100% right. I didn't have enough at the time, and I should have bought some with the money I save... I have 2 sets now.
Thanks for taking the time to do this great video. First time doing brakes and rotors on my LR2. No surprises thanks to you. I found a breaker bar and PB Blaster to be a big help.
Just knocked out this exact job on mine today. Thanks for the vid!!
Greetings from Australia. thank you, it helped me so much to understand how to do for my self. ta
Great Video, remember to bleed the brakes as well. Land Rover recommends changing the brake fluid every 3 years. I have 150k on my 2011 LR2 and have only changed the front and rears once. they are due again so I will change them all and bleed the entire system and replace replace the fluid.
At 1:23 in the video- if you want to change the pads only you perhaps don’t need to undo the big bolts. The bolts you have pointed as “unnecessary” are the only ones one has to undo if one intends to replace the brake pads only on. You don’t need to take the shoe and caliper off entirely
Yes, you are right about changing the pads, but I was not changing pads only, so I used the larger bolts because those are required to change the rotor too. It's a good idea to either machine or replace the rotors when you change your brakes, so unless budget constraints are a concern, you shouldn't change just the pads without at least inspecting the rotors, so I would still take it all the way off just to be sure.
excellent video, I can honestly say this video saved me a lot of money! highly recommended. Thanks
Thanks! I hoped it would help someone!
Great video; thanks for making and sharing it.
Great video. When loosening the lug nuts you are likely to need the supplied wrench as one of the lug nuts may be ‘locked’ type and can only be undone with the supplied wrench
The locked lug is generally put on at the dealership, and not the factory, and most don't install them. The ones that do usually give you a "key" that will fit into a 4 way lug wrench. I made this video with the tools I had laying around, but obviously the tools you use will depend on what you have. I used a 4 way because it is better than the supplied lug wrench, but you may have impact tools - even better.
One addition...should still use a jackstand with the jack
Thank you for information awesome video 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
That was really helpful video and well presented thanku😁👍
Jason.... your the man Bro,
Great job.
Thanks for the compliment! It means a lot.
Please, if you're doing this job yourself buy a can of brake cleaner. Clean the discs before fitting and avoid getting oily fingers on any braking surfaces.
thanks for making this video man, my dealer quoted me nearly 900 for my front breaks and rotors on my 08 lr2 , they quoted me also nearly 90 bucks per caliber, when i was even able to find there supplier lol which they were selling my brakes for like 40 bucks ,,,,,,,,ya talk about greedy as shit . for 2 new rotors and break pads it only costly me just over 300 .
Glad it helped!
thanks for the great video
When I changed the rear pads last year on my 2013 Freelander 2 (this is how is named here in the UK) I found that in order to retract the piston (caliper) easily without the need of a clamp is by setting the Electronic Parking Brake to "service mode" before starting the work. That was a key step but I don't know if models in the US are different
Question: is it recommended to change always brake discs/rotors when changing brqke pads even if they're looking in good shape?
It's generally recommended to at least machine the rotors, but not usually a requirement. In my case, the machine shop needed a day, so that would mean a day on jack stands. Plus, the possibility of finding out the rotors had worn too thin to machine anyway. We didn't have the time, and didn't want to risk it, so we bought replacements.
thank you sir
do the tabs for the bracket come separately from the brake pads?
In most cases, they come with the pads.
whats the proper way to put in the front brake clip?
I tried working on a 2013 LR2 rear breaks. From what I understood the dealer or a Rover shop uses some kind of hydrolic euqipment to work on rear. The fronts are as described in the video. But I couldn't even get break calipers off for my rear as it was being obstructed by something when pulling out. Do you know if this is true?
No, I don't know. There may be some variant of the LR2 where that is required, but I found the back brakes to be easier than the front. The only obstruction was the brake rotor itself (where the pads had worn into a groove in the rotor), but that was easy enough to pry open the caliper a little.
Use an off-set wrench if need be to get in tight spots. But no hydraulic tool would be able to magically remove a bolt that doesn't have enough clearance to get out. Sometimes the extra clearance is minimal, but they will still be able to come out.
How do you bleed the brakes?
Great video many thanks
Thanks Mike. One of these days I will get around to making more videos, but time is such a rare commodity these days...
The video was very helpful. Thank you. I have a 2014 LR2 and just wondering if you know about compressing the piston for the rear brakes when it has electric parking brake, I tryed prying it but it doesn't budge, the piston has 3 score lines like it takes a special tool to make it compress like it did on my Mazda Miata 2010.
I'm not 100% sure, but I've been told (just last week) that Land Rover has a requirement for the vehicle to be put into "service mode" if these electronic parking brakes are equipped. I'm not sure how to do it, and it may even require a diagnostic tool.
Would you please let me know if you find the answer? If so, I'll add it to the description. Thank you, and good luck!
@@BornHandy Electronic Parking Brake Service Mode
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Procedure is:
Ensure its in park or neutral and the park brake deactivated and ignition turned on.
1. Press and hold the parking brake switch in the release position.
2. Wait 2 seconds
3. Press and hold the accelerator pedal in the wide open throttle position.
4. Wait 2 seconds
5. Turn ignition off and on immediately whilst still finger on park button and foot on throttle.
6. An audible noise will confirm service mode, it will also be displayed on dash.
You will hear the brake motors activate for a while.
Deactivation
with ignition on.
1. Press and hold the parking brake switch in the apply position.
2. Wait 2 seconds
3. Press and hold the accelerator pedal in the wide open throttle position.
4. Wait 2 seconds
5. Turn ignition off and on again. keeping finger on park button and foot on throttle.
Great video. Does anyone know the part number for the brake retainer clips thanks
Sorry, my pads came with the clips in the box.
At 3:18 where did the brake caliper go - the one you kept atop the old rotor ?
Sorry mate not being a troll - your video was very helpful just would help even more if perhaps a couple of steps where more clearer
No problem, I should have clarified. The brake caliper was setting behind the rotor, but that is unimportant really. Just don't let it hang by its own weight. You could even hang it with some wire, but that is your choice.
use a pipe for leverage
Maybe to loosen, but not to tighten. You can over tighten bolts, and a torque wrench should be used until you get a feel for how tight the caliper, lug nuts, etc bolts should be. :)
Pn