So you had a Fail huh?
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ธ.ค. 2022
- Not to pick too much on one guy but man do we have a lot to cover. I hope you enjoyed this one let me know what your thoughts are below!
My Merch Store!
betaclimbers.com/
You can buy me a coffee here:
www.paypal.com/paypalme/betac...
Here is a Discord link, come join the fun!
/ discord
You can click this link to see more of my videos!
/ betaclimbers
My amazon store where I put products I talk about in my videos. (affiliate link)
www.amazon.com/shop/betaclimbers
Instagram - BetaClimber
As a guide with the AMGA I literally cannot recommend Cody Bradfords videos enough. They single handedly made me a more efficient and smarter climber. He unfortunately passed away earlier this year, but his content is a gold mine that will be useful forever.
He passed away?? What happened?
@@seanshang11 He committed suicide in September of this year unfortunately.
@@hunterkogelman3558 are you serious? 😟
@@JorgePacker sadly yes.
What??? No!
Ive never been so stressed watching a climbing fails lol
Same. Lots of waves of anxiety watching this guy making so many mistakes
Agreed. Really hard to watch.
My stress while watching the "multipitch simulation": 📈📈📈📈
couldnt watch it skipt a bit, was expecting that he falls. ;-)
The Expanse books taught me that those who don't double check everything that has already been double checked tend to leave the gene pool early.
You have the singing voice of an angel.
Absolutely. 😂❤
I remember watching the first video and being nauseated. So many things done wrong it's a wonder they're still alive.
That belay device in guide mode on the first clip is more trustable hands free than a GriGri when belaying a climber from below.
yes probably, but still important to never remove a hand from the break strand
It’s completely fine to go hands free with a guide mode atc
@@johnwesely Be careful saying it's "completely fine" to let go of the rope when belaying in guide mode. There are a couple edge cases where this could be dangerous. First, if the rope diameter is too small and the top strand slips under the brake strand and the other being if you are belaying two seconds who both weight the rope and pull at greatly different angles.
@@willscanlon9843 I would consider both of those out of spec, but yes, you probably shouldn’t rely on the guide mode in extreme edge cases
@@johnwesely In addition to the other problems mentioned: If something prevents your tube-style device from easily and fully rotating into the locked position it won’t lock. Sure, that shouldn’t happen and should be pretty easy to spot the moment you start belaying, but things happen.
Almost spit out my drink when i watched the helmet of the final belayer pop off his head when the climber took the fall.....was hoping you caught it too lol
Gnarly video. Beautiful song.
Today I had the scariest experience ever. I was climbing in a gym with only automatic belaying systems... One guy was at the last move, 13 meters from the ground, when my friend said, I think the guy is not attached... And guess what, the guy climbed a 6A free soloing and he realised he was not attached at the very top!!!
Luckly I screamed to him not to move any further, one guy climbed right next to him with two belaying systems, and he was able to help him attach himself and safely come back to the ground...
But knowing that the last move was a dyino and that I screamed right before he jumped... Well I am still shaking, I had to stop climbing and went home, thinking what would have happened if 6 people didn't manage to help this dumb guy!
Nightmare fuel
Autobelay devices terrify me more than multipitch climbing with first timers.
Great work there it is indeed a terrifying situation but you should commend yourself for taking action in the moment.
😮😮😮oh my goodness ! That is so scary !
Stop getting in the way of natural selection
I hope the person who takes away the most from this review is the climber. We all make mistakes, but if you are consistently making this many errors, eventually gravity is going to win. I’d bet a biner that he peels off an anchor in the near future.
Five stars for the Oompa Loompa routine!!
The first guy pioneered the "trinagle of quickdraws" method. Lord.
Look up the comments the person in the fall on Cactus Head (Cactus Massacre wall in Red Rock Canyon) at 23:25 left on their tick list on mountain project. They 100% blamed the first ascensionist for not "trundling" all loose rocks from the climb rather than take any personal responsibility for their or their inattentive belayers errors. Absolute clown
What a turd 😂
Good catch about the two quickdraws at the anchor, I have used that method, but not thought about my partner cleaning the route and just unclipping subconsciously,
That Oompa Loompa bit had me dying!!😂 Great vid🤘
@24:55 the belayers helmet also panicks and dives off the belayers head lmao
Thanks, Joshua. I am delighted to see Cody in this video. Rest in piece
I Don't know if it's good: but i can't get the song out of my head since yesterday..... :) :( :/
One of the first things I learned for multipitch/ TR/ belay from above is to carry up a pre-made quad. Also this guy will be so much more stoked once he learns a bit more.
I agree. With a little bit more technique and knowledge, this guy’s gonna be so excited to climb. He clearly loves and will love it even more.
Here in Austria we do it similarly but we use a sling with a bowline on a bight in it and use the small loop as our master point. Equalization is a myth anyway. Makes for a very tidy belay.
my drugs must have kicked in around minute 11.... great video!
To be fair to that belayer at the end, it looks like his climber was well out of sight. What would he be looking at if he was looking up? On some routes, there's not a huge amount you can do once your climber is out of sight. You just gotta watch the slack in front of you and feed out as needed.
People have climbed outside once and think they are experts is why people are butt hurt 😅
Came for the new video, stayed for the MUSIC VIDEO WHERE DID THAT COME FROM OH MY GOD
I could only watch the videos of this guy a little bit at a time... then go de-compress. I guess they are educational, perhaps even more-so than many of the videos with actual falls, so on that level including these clips really does serve the stated educational purpose of posting these fail videos, but lordy. All of the fumbling about is unnerving enough, even if the person were getting things right along the way (albeit painfully slowly), but fumbling about while still making glaring mistakes along the way with no redundancy, letting go of the brake hand, etc., is just painful.
Yes, practicing on the ground, as was mentioned, is essential when you are at this point in the learning curve... provided that you're self-aware enough to actually be practicing those techniques correctly, of course.
Wow!
Thank you so much for the Oompa Loompa routine. Laughed my ass off. Brilliant.
In the last video, the belayer seems to have a "grigri". If it were a normal plate device (e.g. atc), the climber would touched the ground, none of both hands are holding the brake lane properly. Even the helmet of the belayer went off at some point. Ridiculous. Again great analysis. Thank you.
That "belayer" did nothing to save their climber. Both hands grabbed the active end of the rope and as you said, no hands on the break line. They should wake up and get some serious training, before they kill someone.
Just one thing: it is not OK to build an anchor with just one quickdraw on each bolt! If you are actually doing multi-pitch, a fall from the leader on the second pitch could move the quickdraws in ways that could unclip themselves, or depending on the situation and how you are belaying (e.g. with a Munter hitch and a factor 2 fall), the carabiners can open by themselves under the load, and with the carabiner elongating, they will not close back, effectively leaving you hanging on two carabiners with an open gate! If top-roping, it would be acceptable if you placed two quickdraws with the gates opening to opposite sides.
And yes, this is pretty scary. If this guy does not take some time to learn things the right way, I am afraid he will eventually have a pretty bad accident.
If you looked at the comments left by his climbing partner in this video... I fear he won't be getting good instruction any time soon.
@@wenkeli1409 initially perhaps, but recent comments would suggest it's getting through.
@@wenkeli1409 dude gets to see a close up of his friend relying on god and thinks nothing of it, scary shit
I don't understand why he doesn't build an anchor like any normal person with either 2 hitches in carbines connecting the rope or a sling in carbines with "soft eye" to clip into. It's much simpler than the quick draw mess he made and 10 times safer.
The first thing you said about the unclipping mindset is so true and people never think about it
That guy probably wasn’t looking up because he didn’t want his unbuckled helmet to fall off.
would like to see a little longer videos, but enjoy your content and think its very educational for us newer climbers! Always better to learn from others mistakes. They say experience is recognizing your mistake the second time you do it, but we don't always have that option in this sport.
in the last video, in my opinion, the fact that the first piece pops out it is actually the end of the world because as a consequence all the other pieces could have been unzipped
Yeah that could happen good point
I just hate it when the entire pitch zippers. 😂
I wondered why this video took so long, I see now 🤣 and it's so worth it! Oompah loompa 😂
Couple tips for improvement for the first guy.
Build a quad anchor on the ground. Arrive at anchor, put a quickdraw on a bolt and clip the rope to protect while you install the anchor. Install the quad, clip PAS (or clip carabiner and clove hitch) to masterpoint. Weight check quad then remove original quick draw and call off belay. If you know the follower will be lowered, belay off harness with the rope redirected through 'biner clipped to the masterpoint. If for some reason guide mode belay is required, when the time comes to lower, ensure follower is secure (either they have clipped to master point or you have tied off the brake strand. To lower, install prusik on brake strand and clip to leg loop. You can use a carabiner or a sling threaded through the hole on the nose of the device and rerouted through a higher piece of protection to assist in defeating the autolock. Maintain hand on brake strand/prusik when attempting to defeat the device. If the climber is light or the distance to lower is short, you may be able to get away with tilting the device by hand or wiggling the biner that is touching the rope.
For the second scenario where he was rapping down, I would install two opposite and opposed draws and then clip them with the PAS to achieve redundancy. Alternatively, you could girth hitch a sling to your harness or use some quick draws to clip the second bolt. Now you can come off belay. Instead of untying, you should be able to push a bight of rope through the lower rings. Once the bight is through, tie it off with an overhand and then clip that loop to your belay loop with a locker. Now you can untie from your harness and pull the slack through the rings. Now you can weight test the system before getting lowered. I think ethically it is ok to lower through the hardware, as long as you don't plan to continue to TR on it. Note, sometimes a rappel is called for, usually because of a sharp edge.
Acronyms that I run in my head every time I set an anchor
SRENE - Secure, redundant, equalized, No Extension, Efficient. Lots of opinions about this, my general rule is that if the anchor point is bomber beyond question and achieving redundancy will result in significant faff, I am willing to fudge a bit on redundancy (this is primarily for trad anchor scenarios, for bolted anchors, no reason not to clip both bolts every time). Good article here discussing this topic www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/thoughts-on-redundancy-in-climbing-anchors
Every time I start a climb, start a belay or am preparing to clip out of an anchor, I run this
BARK - Belts (check harness), Anchor (SRENE, rope threaded correctly), Rappel (or belay) device set correctly, Knot (knots in end of rope, personal tie in knot) - also checking these on my partner, if possible. Also, always always always weight check before unclipping, that is your final failsafe.
For your first tip: You don’t even have to put a quick draw into the anchor. Just put in your prepared sling and clove hitch yourself directly to the master point.
@@Mike-oz4cv Also valid. I'll typically do the quickdraw thing if the stance is tenuous at the anchor and I'm still worried about taking a lead fall. I find a quickdraw is easier to get in while pumped than a tether.
😆 That oompa loompa thing was hilarious.
RIP CODY!!!!! I learned so much from his videos!
What do you mean Rip?
that helmet...brilliant
He's dead
@@giorgiacanali5457 They guy he showed in the clip clarifying the proper way to do what they were trying to do from the first fail is Cody Bradford he tragically passed from suicide this year.
I like red lockers too.
Mostly so I can say:
“If it’s red, you’re dead”
My sister has one; I don't. She always thinks I'm locked even when I'm not. That's the downside of them.
15:23 OMG i almost had a heart attack watching that 🤣
That song sequence was the best thing ever!
Damn I loved the vids Cody made. Never knew him, but I’m sad that the world lost him.
this. video is amazing! love the singing
An ATC/tube device in guide mode is great when used correctly, but that can be said with most gear. I personally prefer a tube over a grigri with the exception of top roping newer climbers, but that’s just me.
It's a more versatile device, especially in the UK, where we use 2 ropes for trad.
@@pu11y we have a lot of two rope rappels around my way, so I often do the same.
I'm usually not one to hit the like button, but the Oompa Loompa video? How could I not!
Dude your content is the best
Holy shit. What a great video. The Oompa Loompa song made me laugh out loud.
His lowering of that guy is the most stressed I've been watching a climbing video. Okay, hand of a brake rope on an assisted braking device is a no no, but it's not *that* bad on its own.. But then he's actively attempting to disengage the braking feature, repeatedly, with his hand off the brake rope. Wtf? His partner is lucky to have made it down fine.
8:35 made my blood freeze
10:25 Resurrected me 😂
Bro my soul was screaming at me to not trust him. I just made sure I grabbed the jugs on the way down 💀
It would be good to show that first video at the start and end of a week long climbing course
Here lad, that "Climbing like you've just smoked a joint" line in your song was uncalled for like.
Lost it at Oompa loompa! You win the internet! :D
This lowering method with carabiner in little hole of reverso is in petzl manual. not talking about lack of thirdhand, but only about unlocking device.
Joshua, please could you post a video recreating the first video in this one in betaclimbers style? (maybe with a quad and a regular ATC guide... or however you would do it?) Despite all the things the guy could have done better, he had a great that camera angle that clearly showed everything he was doing. The internet would benefit from a updated version of this video with less fails!
❤loved your thumbnail 😅
This guy really likes keeping his gates against the rock for some reason.
The first two ones gave me a heart attack!
Pivots are easy to lower on, you need a quickdraw to release them. They are designed to be easier to lower, that's the whole point of them. With normal guide mode you are supposed to use a munter on the brake strand, that guides method looks like a complete clusterfuck. I've also got no idea why you would use a prussik instead of a munter on a biner.
No mention of toproping on inward facing gates, they are supposed to be outward facing because the gates can interact with each other.
Good eye
She's going to feel that in her neck the rest of her life.
Man, the cringe in this video is very strong. The crags of the world should get a restraining order against this guy. Very lucky to not have caused any accidents.
If that personal anchor is a Petzl connect it was rated for Fall Factor 1; just checked can’t find any rating ! Instructions show do not climb above the anchor; ( as when he was going over an edge
The fact that the thumbnail font makes it read as "Cumbing fails" still cracks me up
This gave me a nauseous feeling to watch. Especially when he was saying "I love this shit", I expected him to drop his climber to death.
Hey. In Norway it's a lot of bolted sport routs with two non-locking carabiners at the anchor. .. Would it be safe enough to make a figure eight with bunny ears and clip one ear to one carabine and the other ear to the second carabiner for top rope solo?
hooolyyy shiiittt that first video made me flinch, so many things wrong :/
I died 100 times watching this
The trouble is even if you have your redirect to the atc unlock carabiner it can still result in an uncontrollable fall as the atc does not lock on demand even when the redirect is stopped being pulled by the belayer. There's another video with the guide showing what happens when the atc id completely unlocked using this method. The climber falls before you even know what's happened. The advice is to tie a prussik on the break line with catastrophe knot below. Then untie the catastrophe know once everything has been checked. If in case the belayer pulls on the redirect too hard or the climber starts falling uncontrollably, the prussik will lock the brake strand pulling the belayer towards the anchor and unweighted the redirect. Climb safe
So many of these, I struggle to understand what they're doing... they seem to make everything way more complicated than it needs to be...
I like the oompa lumpa so much 😁
Thumbs up just for the intro song!
The guy rapelling on fireman's @15:03 is not bomber. Too little extension on the rappel device, the prussik can jam in to it, and gravity'd take over.
BTW, one my friend puts the prussik on extension (so prussik wraps the loaded end). Never seen that but they say it's bomber, is it?
Was friends with a guy who was a guide in some basic ass DC area TRing. Apparently people tried to untie/other Weird shit all the time. Got some good stories
That must have been GF or Carderock. I’ve heard a lot about sketchy setups in Carderock
@@cristianorlandoelpro416 yep, carderock. Many a bad anchor system set up by gumbies. Constantly having to help people not kill themselves trying to rap/climb.
When in doubt let go of everything, repeatedly.
That last video looked like the belayer was trying to catch the fall by grabbing the live strand.
I think someone got saved by a semi auto device there.
Wow, some people have no regard for basic safety. I'm no expert, but will happily point out things to others and have never had anyone complain or tell me were to go. Always better to try and inform rather than hear someone has died.
Everybody has these fancy personal anchors lol I just use a nylon sling
Bunny ears for me. Two slings to lockers. Done and dusted.
Agreed. Unnecessarily complex. And papers over ignorance of fundamentals.
@@bloodink9508 2 nylons 3 lockers master sling
RIP in peace Cody B.
RIP Cody Bradford
That oompa loompa skit is going to give me nightmares
There is the a great difference between gymnastics skills and overall climbing aptitude. You see spectacular rock ascent videos, swimming in the buy-the-gear market and you are fit. If you see through mountaineering history in the alps and the continental united states, you will look well trained climbers: goals, not oversized egos; common sense, not daring behaviour; and, something that matters in the mountaineering activity, humility, and not a narcissism.
That the carabiner recommended for the petzl connect
Dude, I am a shuddering watching the belay techniques of the first vid....
What about clipping into rings where you would Rappel down later from?
They are making them sharp so that the rope will suffer
getting a little slower climbing out of there😊
That last belayer's helmet just pops off! And his brake hand is up/forward! Gggaaahhhh!!
a very tuneful voice. I wonder if you sang in opera 🤣😅
Finally some dancing.
Belaying is a formality until it isn't.
i really missed these videos :V
Minute 19 the gate on that Attaché is unscrewed. Bad looking deal there.
don’t know why the guy in the first video couldn’t just bring a piece of webbing to use as an anchor. hell of a lot cheaper, safer, and easier than fumbling with a bunch of quickdraws.
What a big mess he did 😆
Where was that song from?
Is this second video (rappel) is in sandrock Alabama?
Yes
Yup....I remember the first time I fucked around at an anchor....
You gotta do it a few times but damn...NEVER on one point. Ever.
I also always thought it hinckey to reach down and tie on to an anchor and just toss over. We try to find some damn thing to rappel from on the top side, then go down and make a proper anchor and rap the rest. I understand that it is not always possible but not being able to weight test your rig until it means your life is not cool.
atc is self locking though more than a grigri
i got the master protection because i don't smoke joints at the wall i bring the bong
This video is exactly why I wouldn’t climb with other people. Oh… I forgot I don’t climb.
This was painful to watch on so many levels. For starters, if this guy would just use a quad or cordelette anchor system with lockers it would be an improvement and probably simpler than all the stuff he’s doing.
Are we happy climbing with someone who can't tie a clove hitch?
Anyone have a link to the original videos?
OMG... This couldn't be real
Thank you for this video. This guys rappel was a disaster. He's using a Quickdraw! And I agree about rigging ahead of time, but also weighting each part of the system to make sure the system works, and the redundancy is too close to the rappel device, which renders the redundancy useless. Hand to brake the rope before going over. Too many deaths are from going down, not up. I wouldn't want to climb with this guy.