Thank you for talking about the in floor electrical boxes and the new plastic connectors. You are first person I have heard say that there are problems with these types of connectors. All I have been hearing is how good they are. It is nice to hear a balanced response from your investigation that would indicate that there is another side to these connectors. I always value the views and experiences of the professional people in the filed over those that evaluate items after being sent to them by the manfacture or have only used an item for a week or two. Thanks again!
Rich, just find where the first floor plug is getting power from. Disconnect it in the wall and fill it with concrete, totally fine since they won’t be live
floorguy3440 I agree with you it should be! But man floor guys have gotten so rough. It is a constant struggle to find guys that want to do high-end quality work these days
Hi thanks for your videos.I watch them every day sometimes all day.I think you are a very professional gifted person.I have learnt so much although I don't have the tools.your skills are unbelievable.I just watched your video from years ago when you were having problems with your house purchase and I hope it got sorted out.Good luck to you and your family you are a genius.Keep tge videos coming so interesting best thing I have seen on you tube.Thank you
You can always get a hexagon boxwood metal cover then you could tell you ours together like they go for some metal cover on just covered with woods measured out and write that down and keep it someplace safe and if you don't have a problem and they can't figure out where it's at you can measure it out square flooring board check the wires out and you can always cut your new piece and back hurting underneath
We bought it, used few boxes, the rest were laying in boxes for 1 months. Yesterday we noticed BLUE SPOTS(!) all over the boards on the floor and THE BOARDS IN THE BOXES! It reacts on hit!
if that other box in the floor is the end of that circuit, and you said it went back to the other room, just trace it back and cut power to that end, then you can cover it up, leave the wires or pull them out.
Floor looks nice. My brother was just finishing an oak floor a few years ago, and his son, who worked for him at the time, walked in spinning a claw hammer, thinking he was in young guns, and dropped it, claw first straight into the oak, I won't say what my brother said, but he wasn't happy. 😂
Hallo from Ireland 🇮🇪,I would normally tape measure floor and rip starter boards to match the finishing boards,I thought u were going to say old carpenters saying there about the glue and dust we put of trust
Just a thought, on that wall you stripped out, I think it would look amazing if you did like some built in book shelving like all the way up the wall. Or very high at least. Like some custom built ins & you could even install like a wooden ladder that rolls horizontally on a track like some libraries have. Just for show of course but I think it would make for a cool project. you can even build a really cool wooden ladder or just get one that’s done. But I think there’s so many finish trim designs you can add around a bookshelf project that I think would be cool to see. Just a thought
I would have had my electrician pull a new wire with no splice in that box and then buried it. if you need a splice you could make it in the wall you have open.. Love the floor ! Beautiful !
I have 4 dogs so after ripping the laminate up I installed LVP. Super easy with a Roberts 13” cutter. Incredibly, I joined up exactly around a roughly 40’ kitchen. No transition! Now maybe live edge my stairs 😳Excellent work, Richard! Anxious to see the stain down 👍
Electrician here it’s to late now but what you could have done is locate the power source. Usually it comes from one pipe coming from a receptacle nearby. You could have let go of the power at the receptacle and sometimes you can pull it out. Even if you could not take it out you could have got rid of it permanently. Til late now what I would do now is get a recessed outlet so it will not stick out
Just fyi, you wouldn’t have had to acclimate the flooring if you were only putting a 1 1/4” strip in. Also, if you are laying multiple areas, just snap a line/laser on through the longest space and measure how everything hits, then adjust so that your splitting the difference to get the walls to all hit close to straight. If there’s no straight line that works through all spaces, you can snap new lines in adjoining rooms based on those walls and subtly tweak the transition piece in the doorway with a track saw so that the floor will hit at the adjusted angle. Typically we select critical areas where eyes will be drawn the most for our boss line, so that the most noticeable stuff looks good. Usually, unless you’re dealing with a truly tipsy turvy house, if you plane your boss line carefully you should be able to hit most walls within 3/4” end to end no problem. Also, if you’re going wide plank, you can often rip down your starter row so you don’t have a skinny rip on the opposite wall. It’s much easier to detect crookedness when the distance to the seam from the baseboard is small, but if it goes from say 5” to 4 1/4” it is much harder to spot.
The way we do it we call the courses and we will glue a course of about 3 to 4 rows at least its a lot faster, we’ll usually measure over 3-4 planks and drop a line and go
Same but we usually just lay starter row first day to make sure it doesn't move then we'll get the straps next day to keep all the boards straight then he wouldn't have had to use wood filler
Did you consider making the first course against the far wall narrower, so that you could make that last strip a bit wider? I always try to get the 2 sides even, if possible.
Was that a moisture barrier combo adhesive? It doesn't look like it? It's gonna be a real PITA to remove that wood once it starts curling up on the edges of the boards. Hope I'm wrong. The floor looks fantastic!
Should have found a guy to help you with the prep, its the hardest most tedious portion of the job, in the flooring world flat is considered an 1/8th inch over the course of 6 feet and you really wanna get your concrete there, we just spent the last three days grinding and screeding in a basement when it only took a day to lay it, the work load is really lopsided, most concrete is like the rocky mountains and people don't realize it.
@FinishCarpentryTV John been watching your content for at least 3 Jr's, and I still get to "Amaze" folks with flap disk coping... including Lancaster Amish. :)
If you put a wood cap over that electrical box glue a piece of flashing to the underside of it first. Not supposed to have anything combustible where a spark can occur. If you look at wooden faceplates sold in the store they all have a piece of sheet metal on the backside.
I’m not too familiar with practices in Texas but isn’t this going to have moisture issues being directly on concrete like this ? Also regarding floor electrical the best options are to pull it out, or find it’s connection point , disconnect at another (in wall) junction and you can definitely bury a dead wire.
Love the floor choice! Question though, Do you not need an underlayment of some sort when laying hardwood floors on a concrete slab; due to the expansion and contraction of the wood? And moisture barrier
Looks good. But don’t get the compensate part. Was his wall that far out of whack in the old house? I wouldn’t lay floor a certain way cause wall is off. Any idea what he was getting at?
How did you decide between solid wood and an engineered wood for the glued down application. Most of the info I have seen says to use engineered hardwood for glued down applications. Love the channel! Thanks for the videos!
we went with an engineered hardwood. The more research I did the more I learned that it’s the only way to go if you are gluing down directly to concrete. You can do solid hardwood of put out a subfloor on top of the concrete then the flooring on top of the sun floor. That wasn’t in the budget or design for our house.
Instead of just laying a loose plug over your wire box consider a screw in plug. Get pvc male and female connectors that are just smaller than the hole. Cut an exact size wood plug that is about half thickness. Cut a piece of male plug that thick and glue it to the bottom. Cut a piece of the female that is to be glued in the hole. When the plug threads are dried screw the two pieces together, apply silicone around the female piece the press it into the hole until the plug is floor level or better just a pit above. This will give the ability to sand it flush. If you side tape on a small block when installing you can line the grain up and the plug will all but disappear. It can also be removed the same way.
The plug isn’t a bad idea. You might need to thin it some as the box in the floor needs a non combustible cover. So a metal cover just I case there is a fire so it remains contained.
Rather than a circular plug, maybe a short length of full width floorboard with the bottom of the groove ripped off and recreate the same rebate shape on the perp ends. Lightly glued down or some hidden fixing (magnets? clips?). You're probably done already though...
We manufacture custom solid hardwood flooring……miles and miles of it…….If this is custom flooring and you are gluing it have the shop put fewer grooves in the back and make the front and back edges equal and wide as possible so you will have equal glue surface. By the way, the grooves serve no purpose except to reduce weight for shipping! Your floor looks good from here.
Wonderful job! Just a question, I heard that solid wood floor cannot be installed directly on concrete, is that true? Will the glue you used block the moisture from the concrete? Thank you!
@@FinishCarpentryTV Hate to break it to you Richard been a subscriber for along time. Professional hardwood floor installer and refinisher for 20 years. There’s a lot that goes into a successful solid wood glue down install over concrete that was not accounted for on this install. Extensive moisture testing on the concrete is done and recorded and depending on the results different products would be used to abate the moisture. In my experience directly gluing to concrete solid wood never works. Extensive prep is needed on the substrate to make a long lasting install. An engineered product would have been a better choice for minimal prep.
NO pull that wire out it's in conduit if you're not going to put a floor plug back then pull it out anyway looks great and I wouldn't skim the floor out either
Use bona water base finish! And roller it on with a Miro fiber roller!!!! Buff with a maroon pad!!!!! You may have to stain with oil base stain to keep the look you like! But water base finish is the best!
Thank you for talking about the in floor electrical boxes and the new plastic connectors. You are first person I have heard say that there are problems with these types of connectors. All I have been hearing is how good they are. It is nice to hear a balanced response from your investigation that would indicate that there is another side to these connectors. I always value the views and experiences of the professional people in the filed over those that evaluate items after being sent to them by the manfacture or have only used an item for a week or two. Thanks again!
Those connectors are like back wiring an outlet. Just not a good idea. There's not enough contact.
Rich, just find where the first floor plug is getting power from. Disconnect it in the wall and fill it with concrete, totally fine since they won’t be live
Yeah I agree. It shouldn’t take too long to figure out where it’s supplied from. Good luck Richard.
He wants to keep the 2nd one in the line powered up so he cant disconnect the first one from the source without killing the 2nd as well.
It feeds through to another floor receptacle
It’s too late now
@@viclester8315 okay well then find out where the one it feeds to feeds from, I'm sure the electricity doesn't originate from the floor lol
I'm glad to see you doing hardwood it really is finish carpentry I've been doing it since 98
floorguy3440
I agree with you it should be!
But man floor guys have gotten so rough.
It is a constant struggle to find guys that want to do high-end quality work these days
for a flush plug, hide a magnet on the underside to make it easier to hide and cool factor to remove/service.
Nice outcome, I wasn’t expecting anything less due to you incredible skill set. Nice to see your wife helping out again.
They make nice looking brass floor outlet that I would look at to put there
Love the mallet flick ... like a boss
Hi thanks for your videos.I watch them every day sometimes all day.I think you are a very professional gifted person.I have learnt so much although I don't have the tools.your skills are unbelievable.I just watched your video from years ago when you were having problems with your house purchase and I hope it got sorted out.Good luck to you and your family you are a genius.Keep tge videos coming so interesting best thing I have seen on you tube.Thank you
Looking good. Glad to see you didn't cover the junction box.
You can always get a hexagon boxwood metal cover then you could tell you ours together like they go for some metal cover on just covered with woods measured out and write that down and keep it someplace safe and if you don't have a problem and they can't figure out where it's at you can measure it out square flooring board check the wires out and you can always cut your new piece and back hurting underneath
Looks fantastic!... good choice on the electrical box too...
We bought it, used few boxes, the rest were laying in boxes for 1 months. Yesterday we noticed BLUE SPOTS(!) all over the boards on the floor and THE BOARDS IN THE BOXES! It reacts on hit!
if that other box in the floor is the end of that circuit, and you said it went back to the other room, just trace it back and cut power to that end, then you can cover it up, leave the wires or pull them out.
Hahaha …..showing up the deniers at the end! Cheweeeee looks great 👍
Floor looks nice. My brother was just finishing an oak floor a few years ago, and his son, who worked for him at the time, walked in spinning a claw hammer, thinking he was in young guns, and dropped it, claw first straight into the oak, I won't say what my brother said, but he wasn't happy. 😂
In the uk we just wago connecter them... can bury the wires on concrete, plaster whatever and they still work 🤷♂️
Whats the brand and name of the your solid wood floor?
Add a magnet to the plug so that you don't have to have some silly tab or hole to be able to pry it up in the future.
Hallo from Ireland 🇮🇪,I would normally tape measure floor and rip starter boards to match the finishing boards,I thought u were going to say old carpenters saying there about the glue and dust we put of trust
I bet you hire a sanding crew to do the finishing!!!! That edger will kick your butt
Just a thought, on that wall you stripped out, I think it would look amazing if you did like some built in book shelving like all the way up the wall. Or very high at least. Like some custom built ins & you could even install like a wooden ladder that rolls horizontally on a track like some libraries have. Just for show of course but I think it would make for a cool project. you can even build a really cool wooden ladder or just get one that’s done. But I think there’s so many finish trim designs you can add around a bookshelf project that I think would be cool to see. Just a thought
Turn into a working outlet, put a brass copper style outlet cover that will cover the plugs that can be level even with the floor.
Starting to look awesome. Great job.
Richard ! Love your channel and the content you bring, I never miss a new video!
Cheers from Canada 🤙
When your rout a rabbet, can you do it where you would it be big enough so you can insert magnets to hold the wooden electrical cover on?
Floor looks great!
I would have had my electrician pull a new wire with no splice in that box and then buried it. if you need a splice you could make it in the wall you have open.. Love the floor ! Beautiful !
I have 4 dogs so after ripping the laminate up I installed LVP. Super easy with a Roberts 13” cutter. Incredibly, I joined up exactly around a roughly 40’ kitchen. No transition! Now maybe live edge my stairs 😳Excellent work, Richard! Anxious to see the stain down 👍
2 seconds in I was pausing the video and placing an order! I've been waiting for years to get one in my size. Nice floor too ;-)
Thanks for the support!
Electrician here it’s to late now but what you could have done is locate the power source. Usually it comes from one pipe coming from a receptacle nearby. You could have let go of the power at the receptacle and sometimes you can pull it out. Even if you could not take it out you could have got rid of it permanently. Til late now what I would do now is get a recessed outlet so it will not stick out
Just fyi, you wouldn’t have had to acclimate the flooring if you were only putting a 1 1/4” strip in.
Also, if you are laying multiple areas, just snap a line/laser on through the longest space and measure how everything hits, then adjust so that your splitting the difference to get the walls to all hit close to straight. If there’s no straight line that works through all spaces, you can snap new lines in adjoining rooms based on those walls and subtly tweak the transition piece in the doorway with a track saw so that the floor will hit at the adjusted angle. Typically we select critical areas where eyes will be drawn the most for our boss line, so that the most noticeable stuff looks good. Usually, unless you’re dealing with a truly tipsy turvy house, if you plane your boss line carefully you should be able to hit most walls within 3/4” end to end no problem. Also, if you’re going wide plank, you can often rip down your starter row so you don’t have a skinny rip on the opposite wall. It’s much easier to detect crookedness when the distance to the seam from the baseboard is small, but if it goes from say 5” to 4 1/4” it is much harder to spot.
"I really don't want to lose my mantle", good one, still laughing.
The way we do it we call the courses and we will glue a course of about 3 to 4 rows at least its a lot faster, we’ll usually measure over 3-4 planks and drop a line and go
Same but we usually just lay starter row first day to make sure it doesn't move then we'll get the straps next day to keep all the boards straight then he wouldn't have had to use wood filler
Hey, love your videos. How did you stain and finish the floors? I’m about to redo my white oak floor and am terrified of them turning yellow.
where do you buy the solid hardwood white oak? Do you need to glue or can you nail them?
Great job ,good tips especially about the electrical.thanks.👍
Did you consider making the first course against the far wall narrower, so that you could make that last strip a bit wider? I always try to get the 2 sides even, if possible.
Looks great nice to see solid wood flooring! Where did you get the boards from? Thanks.
Was that a moisture barrier combo adhesive? It doesn't look like it? It's gonna be a real PITA to remove that wood once it starts curling up on the edges of the boards. Hope I'm wrong. The floor looks fantastic!
What flooring is this ? I love it !
If you know someone with a shaper origin, they could really help you with a recessed plug for outlet issue
Should have found a guy to help you with the prep, its the hardest most tedious portion of the job, in the flooring world flat is considered an 1/8th inch over the course of 6 feet and you really wanna get your concrete there, we just spent the last three days grinding and screeding in a basement when it only took a day to lay it, the work load is really lopsided, most concrete is like the rocky mountains and people don't realize it.
@FinishCarpentryTV John been watching your content for at least 3 Jr's, and I still get to "Amaze" folks with flap disk coping... including Lancaster Amish. :)
If you put a wood cap over that electrical box glue a piece of flashing to the underside of it first. Not supposed to have anything combustible where a spark can occur. If you look at wooden faceplates sold in the store they all have a piece of sheet metal on the backside.
Do you have details on where you bought these from? Also what grade was this? i.e Common 1, Common 2, Character?
Beautiful home!
Just use a sanding sealer unless you got holes in the wood
Love the Sony xm4 buds too. I'm assuming you like them since you are using them lol
Is it required to glue the flooring down along with nailing? What happens if I just nailed it down with no glue?
I’m not too familiar with practices in Texas but isn’t this going to have moisture issues being directly on concrete like this ? Also regarding floor electrical the best options are to pull it out, or find it’s connection point , disconnect at another (in wall) junction and you can definitely bury a dead wire.
wood flooring adhesive, moisture barrier, and sound reduction product.
Love the floor choice! Question though, Do you not need an underlayment of some sort when laying hardwood floors on a concrete slab; due to the expansion and contraction of the wood? And moisture barrier
there are two options. glues with built in moisture barriers, or float them with underlayment
@@PerfectPrinceX1 Thanks
Looks good. But don’t get the compensate part. Was his wall that far out of whack in the old house? I wouldn’t lay floor a certain way cause wall is off. Any idea what he was getting at?
How did you decide between solid wood and an engineered wood for the glued down application. Most of the info I have seen says to use engineered hardwood for glued down applications. Love the channel! Thanks for the videos!
Hey southcoasthome, Which did you end up going with? I'm in the same dilemma. Concrete floor, Florida, new home build but want solid wood floors.
we went with an engineered hardwood. The more research I did the more I learned that it’s the only way to go if you are gluing down directly to concrete. You can do solid hardwood of put out a subfloor on top of the concrete then the flooring on top of the sun floor. That wasn’t in the budget or design for our house.
Instead of just laying a loose plug over your wire box consider a screw in plug. Get pvc male and female connectors that are just smaller than the hole. Cut an exact size wood plug that is about half thickness. Cut a piece of male plug that thick and glue it to the bottom. Cut a piece of the female that is to be glued in the hole. When the plug threads are dried screw the two pieces together, apply silicone around the female piece the press it into the hole until the plug is floor level or better just a pit above. This will give the ability to sand it flush. If you side tape on a small block when installing you can line the grain up and the plug will all but disappear. It can also be removed the same way.
Should that circuit be GFIC since the boc is at floor level (outlet or not)?
This is amazing!!!!
What brand is the white oak? Any link would be appreciated.
The plug isn’t a bad idea.
You might need to thin it some as the box in the floor needs a non combustible cover.
So a metal cover just I case there is a fire so it remains contained.
Rather than a circular plug, maybe a short length of full width floorboard with the bottom of the groove ripped off and recreate the same rebate shape on the perp ends. Lightly glued down or some hidden fixing (magnets? clips?). You're probably done already though...
Is this type wood used for sub flooring?
We manufacture custom solid hardwood flooring……miles and miles of it…….If this is custom flooring and you are gluing it have the shop put fewer grooves in the back and make the front and back edges equal and wide as possible so you will have equal glue surface. By the way, the grooves serve no purpose except to reduce weight for shipping! Your floor looks good from here.
Your floors look great. Is this wood expensive?
Looks fab, a credit to u
Nice Job !!!!!
I’m asking everyone what is the best saw blade for the table saw that cuts the smoothest rip cut for glue up. 10”
Anyone know what brand flooring?
Where is the wood from?
Wonderful job! Just a question, I heard that solid wood floor cannot be installed directly on concrete, is that true? Will the glue you used block the moisture from the concrete? Thank you!
It certainly can be, so I don't want to be the Debbie downer here but there's a lot of variables here that probably didn't get accounted for
Do you use a dust collector in your shop ?
Use magnets to hold the plug. Perhaps.
Just find where the wires go to and from and pull new wires THROUGH the box leaving no splice in the box. Then you can cover it.
can you share the info on your floor and supplier?
How does expansion and contraction work with gluing down the floor? The floor does look beautiful.
To be honest I have no idea and I wondered the same thing.
@@FinishCarpentryTV Hate to break it to you Richard been a subscriber for along time. Professional hardwood floor installer and refinisher for 20 years. There’s a lot that goes into a successful solid wood glue down install over concrete that was not accounted for on this install. Extensive moisture testing on the concrete is done and recorded and depending on the results different products would be used to abate the moisture.
In my experience directly gluing to concrete solid wood never works. Extensive prep is needed on the substrate to make a long lasting install. An engineered product would have been a better choice for minimal prep.
What is the brand and color name please !
Why are you gluing down solid wood floors rather than nailing them down on plywood?
Can you tell me what brand of flooring this is?
Just bought first dewakita shirt. Always been a huge supporter, will you be at the builders convention in April?
Thank you! What convention is it?
@@FinishCarpentryTV Dallas build expo.
I’m out of Tyler,tx
Glad you got to keep the sweet ass mantel! LOL
Nice shirt
What’s the name of the flooring?
good job
Where did you get the floor from?
Good luck with the floor solid wood is not for glue down is going to start cupping very soon especially those big big boards
The floors looks great 👍
Did you pocket screw the floor together and domino it to the subfloor?
Lol if I could’ve I would’ve 😂
Someone looks good 👀
I want this
NO pull that wire out it's in conduit if you're not going to put a floor plug back then pull it out anyway looks great and I wouldn't skim the floor out either
Why were you only gluing one row of flooring at a time?
I was nervous about doing more than one row since i didn’t really have experience doing it. So I decided to play it safe
Damn that framer, if you catch him let him know the "345" rule🤓
I know why some of you clicked on this video . Don’t lie boys 😂. Beautiful floor install though can’t wait too see the staining process
where is the floor from? locally in dfw? looking for the same. Thanks
Yes it’s from Oak Floor Supply on 121 in Fort Worth. This is the “ live sawn white oak 7”
@@FinishCarpentryTV thanks. I went to every other store on 121 but skipped that one. Great videos!
@@FinishCarpentryTV is it the Legacy Live 3/4” solid or 5/8” engineered ?
Awesome
He definitely needs to stick to crown lol I would laugh him off many jobs
Use bona water base finish! And roller it on with a Miro fiber roller!!!! Buff with a maroon pad!!!!! You may have to stain with oil base stain to keep the look you like! But water base finish is the best!
Why don't you figure out where that wiring is connected and just disconnect it and cover the box up
I wondered how many takes it took to get a successful hammer flip 🤣
❤️❤️❤️
Floor looks slick as winter ice. Check out how to sand a floor TH-cam. Guys from the UK and he does show the do's and don'ts on how to get it right
Thank you. Yeah that guy is legit.
Aww man. Brother..... get rid of that box period. Just do it. Youre welcome
"Walls are never straight"
Oh shit, this wall is actually straight lol