@@speeter6345 I'm not finding information on a 1N1448; are you sure you don't mean the very common 1N4148? You're going to have to put up with the 0.7V bandgap and the amount of current that can be passed will be limited by the diode ratings (~100 ma continuous). There are better choices--and Schottky rectifiers are inexpensive.
Why not skip the diode and draw power from the external supply and get data from the computer. So don't connect the power cable from the computer (the red one). And only connect the data, and ground wires together. I think I am gona make a test of this one, I think it should work. Itroducing a diode with a voltage drop of 0.6 Volts does not feel right, especialy since you do not want to draw power from the PC anyway.
@@pazion2277 Tried it yesterday in a pinch, if blue and red are plugged to the same power source (eg pc and usb charger in same power strip) it works. Otherwise (eg battery powered notebook and usb charger in wall socket) it does not work
THank you for this! I wonder if it could work with my project. Often usb 3.0 cables that power external usb enclosures have 1 usb wire for data and 5v power, and it's sometimes not enough power for the hdd. My plan is to make a kind of Y cable to add power from another usb cable powered with a phone usb charger. One cable (data+5v) would be connected to the laptop, and the other cable to the charger. I can of course solder the red cables together and the black cables together, but, I'm just a beginner, maybe a diode would be necessary. I don't know where. I wouldn't like to damage the usb laptop port, in "injecting" power in it. Thank you for your help!
well i acsually wanted to make my webcam cable longer so i can put it outside and use it as a security camera. the thing that i find out that the picture was wery bad so i found an usb and i cut it open, and i put a power supply for it. but for some reason the pc sayed UNKNOWN when i plugged in. and it only worked when i plug the power INTO THE PC! so can annyone help?
For that specific use-case I honestly think it would be better to get either an active USB extension or a cheaper wireless camera. For that amount of data, assuming a cable longer than 5 meters you will need an active USB extension. In a longer cable you definitively need a way to boost the intensity of the data signal, it won't be enough to just "add extra power".
I haven’t tried this yet but I’m gonna try following your video it looks hard Tho. Your pace is really good for keeping videos Concise I feel like this has a great density of information efficiently transmitted thank you for the step-by-step
Can you add "quick charge" to a cable that does not have it ? Need a USB device in my car that will give me Android auto but, it charges very slowly, I have a Quick charge 3.0 charger that I use in my car, could this be used to give my phone quick change but, allowing data to go to the Android auto system ?
This is somewhat tricky, the simple answer is no, if you want a better explanation here it goes: It should work, but you will not get more than 500mA. When you connect your phone to a data port, it asks the charging device how much current it can supply before pulling more than 100mA. Since your car doesn't know there is a quick charge power supply available it will very probably just report 500mA maximum available, which should be pulled from the power source (aka your charger).
Hum.. You might lose the ability to plug and unplug your USB device while the PC is on if you cut the 5V wire from the PC, while you won't need the diode anymore, it could cause some connection issues.
does it works if you plug the second usb plug (the red) in your pc instead of the external charger ? for those interesed you can buy it already made on aliexpress for $2
I liked the video. Its simple and informative. But i need do this for usb 3.0 hub. Can you make a video with usb 3.0? I have a usb 3.0 hub, it have 10 wires inside the usb cable. I want to add external power to it. Please help me!! I will be very grateful.
You shouldn't manually modify USB 3.0 cables because they have high-speed connectors. The amount of twists in the connectors and their length must be correct. You might cause problems with USB 3.0 devices if you modify the cable. You could completely remove the ability to benefit from higher speeds which the USB 3.0 provides.
I did the same thing but all i did was connect the black to the main black of everything and cover the red coming from the computer, For now everything is just twisted together and taped and the wall outlet is just a 700 mA hard wired charger but I will remake it when i get another portable external drive
Hey Samuel, you probably already figured it out but, if you are going to do that, make sure to cut the black cable from the blue usb too, because that would be redundant :)
@@Mywk if you connect the green with black stripe wire directly to the one of the coils of the heating element in the toaster then push it down like you were toasting, once it warms up just a little bit you want to connect the yellow with white stripe to the flux capacitor and run a new wire from the capacitor to a 007Bravo transducer (positive side) and run a new wire from the negative back to the flux capacitor (left hand side) then from the other side you run a wire into a jar of marshmallow fluff and turn everything on full power it will make crystal meth.
Q: Why can't I use a cable longer than 5m? A: USB's electrical design doesn't allow it. When USB was designed, a decision was made to handle the propagation of electromagnetic fields on USB data lines in a way that limited the maximum length of a USB cable to something in the range of 4m. So to put it in a few words, you will need a HUB in between.
Hey man! I tried it and it works. With my design however the data cable is around 4ft long and the power cable is short (short I know probably would be better if the power cable being longer) Do I have anything to worry about where the length of the cable is concerned is terms of speed
Glad it works! Regarding the speed there's not much to be concerned unless we are talking about very long cables. Take USB 3.0/3.1 for example, regarding only the data cables and depending on the quality of the cable you would have few to no signal degradation up to 10 feet (3 meters), but more than that I'd definitively recommend an active cable (they are basically cables with signal repeaters).
@@Mywk Thanks for clearing it up. I have a problem or at least I'm not sure if this normal behavior but...since I plugged the power cable into the charger, I notice that the "data+power" cable is giving off power. Is this normal? Cause I got the impression that the diode was supposed to prevent any backward flow and that cable should only receive power from the PC and nothing more.. I used a 1N4007 diode. I hope I didn't over heat it with my soldering iron when I removed it from an extra charger I had lying around.
Is it possible to add extra power to the data cable? I recentely bought an wireless usb modem and it requires 3000mW, so I need 0.6 + Amp. It only operates with a single usb cable for data and power. made in china
Hey! As long as you use the diode there's absolutely no problem, the cable in the video above is used to power a HUB with 4 phones attached to it and all of them work flawlessly for data transfer while charging at the same time.
What happens if I didn't use that diode and just disconnected the power wires from the data cable and connected them to the power only cable like in this video? th-cam.com/video/uLuBuQUF61o/w-d-xo.html Sorry I'm not into electronics, but I don't have this cable available for purchase where I live and I need to use my external WD my passport hdd with my xiaomi Redmi note 9s phone so I have to make the cable myself.
Wrapper We'd love to provide higher quality videos but due to monetary constraints for now we're limited to this for now, who knows maybe one of this days we get new equipment ;/
A Schottky diode, such as the 1N5817 has a lower forward drop (
You are 100% correct, this video is long due an update!
Can I use a LED?
Does a 1n1448 work?
@@speeter6345 I'm not finding information on a 1N1448; are you sure you don't mean the very common 1N4148? You're going to have to put up with the 0.7V bandgap and the amount of current that can be passed will be limited by the diode ratings (~100 ma continuous). There are better choices--and Schottky rectifiers are inexpensive.
@@speeter6345 Again, you're fighting the bandgap--which, for a typical LED is somewhere around 2V.
Why not skip the diode and draw power from the external supply and get data from the computer. So don't connect the power cable from the computer (the red one). And only connect the data, and ground wires together. I think I am gona make a test of this one, I think it should work. Itroducing a diode with a voltage drop of 0.6 Volts does not feel right, especialy since you do not want to draw power from the PC anyway.
Hi there Jan did you try it, I am having a bit trouble can you tell me your result.
@@pazion2277 Tried it yesterday in a pinch, if blue and red are plugged to the same power source (eg pc and usb charger in same power strip) it works. Otherwise (eg battery powered notebook and usb charger in wall socket) it does not work
Yeah that's what I thought. Does this work?
Actually there must be another diode on the charger side to prevent potential leaks
THank you for this! I wonder if it could work with my project. Often usb 3.0 cables that power external usb enclosures have 1 usb wire for data and 5v power, and it's sometimes not enough power for the hdd. My plan is to make a kind of Y cable to add power from another usb cable powered with a phone usb charger. One cable (data+5v) would be connected to the laptop, and the other cable to the charger. I can of course solder the red cables together and the black cables together, but, I'm just a beginner, maybe a diode would be necessary. I don't know where. I wouldn't like to damage the usb laptop port, in "injecting" power in it. Thank you for your help!
Can i use the same connection to make for a USB webcam to use in a live stream. My computer is 20ft away from the stage
well i acsually wanted to make my webcam cable longer so i can put it outside and use it as a security camera.
the thing that i find out that the picture was wery bad so i found an usb and i cut it open, and i put a power supply for it.
but for some reason the pc sayed UNKNOWN when i plugged in. and it only worked when i plug the power INTO THE PC!
so can annyone help?
For that specific use-case I honestly think it would be better to get either an active USB extension or a cheaper wireless camera. For that amount of data, assuming a cable longer than 5 meters you will need an active USB extension. In a longer cable you definitively need a way to boost the intensity of the data signal, it won't be enough to just "add extra power".
Do pre made commercially available versions of this splitter typically have a blocking diode installed?
I haven’t tried this yet but I’m gonna try following your video it looks hard Tho. Your pace is really good for keeping videos Concise I feel like this has a great density of information efficiently transmitted thank you for the step-by-step
Can you add "quick charge" to a cable that does not have it ?
Need a USB device in my car that will give me Android auto but, it charges very slowly, I have a Quick charge 3.0 charger that I use in my car, could this be used to give my phone quick change but, allowing data to go to the Android auto system ?
This is somewhat tricky, the simple answer is no, if you want a better explanation here it goes:
It should work, but you will not get more than 500mA.
When you connect your phone to a data port, it asks the charging device how much current it can supply before pulling more than 100mA. Since your car doesn't know there is a quick charge power supply available it will very probably just report 500mA maximum available, which should be pulled from the power source (aka your charger).
Nice bro.. but what if we totally cut off 5V wire from usb pc side and use only 5V from external.. that way we dont even need a diode..
Hum.. You might lose the ability to plug and unplug your USB device while the PC is on if you cut the 5V wire from the PC, while you won't need the diode anymore, it could cause some connection issues.
What is the cathode used for?
i guess it used for don't harming pc's usb port.
to prevent the current from external power supply flowing back to pc@@eyupa.1791
Very good guide.
Thanks a lot.
We hope it's clear enough as it is supposed to be something simple to do. Thanks for watching!
simple enough as long as you are able to spend an hour around it :P (nobies)
does it works if you plug the second usb plug (the red) in your pc instead of the external charger ? for those interesed you can buy it already made on aliexpress for $2
I liked the video. Its simple and informative. But i need do this for usb 3.0 hub. Can you make a video with usb 3.0? I have a usb 3.0 hub, it have 10 wires inside the usb cable. I want to add external power to it. Please help me!! I will be very grateful.
Eyüp A. Hey! The concept is the same but gotta check the schematics when I get the time, I'll let you know when I do!
TechCoders Thank you! Please chech this photo>> drive.google.com/open?id=12dYJa98zyb4rLj3FjpTzf4tSN4Up8yqd
You shouldn't manually modify USB 3.0 cables because they have high-speed connectors. The amount of twists in the connectors and their length must be correct. You might cause problems with USB 3.0 devices if you modify the cable. You could completely remove the ability to benefit from higher speeds which the USB 3.0 provides.
@@Mywk any updates on this video?
I did the same thing but all i did was connect the black to the main black of everything and cover the red coming from the computer,
For now everything is just twisted together and taped and the wall outlet is just a 700 mA hard wired charger but I will remake it when i get another portable external drive
Really and this works?
Can I just cut the red cable from blue usb, then connect the red and black from power source?
Hey Samuel, you probably already figured it out but, if you are going to do that, make sure to cut the black cable from the blue usb too, because that would be redundant :)
Instructions weren’t clear kitchen is on fire
At no point did I say to put the cable inside the toaster D:
@@Mywk if you connect the green with black stripe wire directly to the one of the coils of the heating element in the toaster then push it down like you were toasting, once it warms up just a little bit you want to connect the yellow with white stripe to the flux capacitor and run a new wire from the capacitor to a 007Bravo transducer (positive side) and run a new wire from the negative back to the flux capacitor (left hand side) then from the other side you run a wire into a jar of marshmallow fluff and turn everything on full power it will make crystal meth.
Clear as mud
What if i use 5V rail from my PC's PSU ?
Guys help me out. I have connected 10m usb cable to my webcam and its not working,how can i solve? Thanks
Q: Why can't I use a cable longer than 5m?
A: USB's electrical design doesn't allow it. When USB was designed, a decision was made to handle the propagation of electromagnetic fields on USB data lines in a way that limited the maximum length of a USB cable to something in the range of 4m.
So to put it in a few words, you will need a HUB in between.
Hey man! I tried it and it works. With my design however the data cable is around 4ft long and the power cable is short (short I know probably would be better if the power cable being longer) Do I have anything to worry about where the length of the cable is concerned is terms of speed
Glad it works!
Regarding the speed there's not much to be concerned unless we are talking about very long cables. Take USB 3.0/3.1 for example, regarding only the data cables and depending on the quality of the cable you would have few to no signal degradation up to 10 feet (3 meters), but more than that I'd definitively recommend an active cable (they are basically cables with signal repeaters).
@@Mywk Thanks for clearing it up. I have a problem or at least I'm not sure if this normal behavior but...since I plugged the power cable into the charger, I notice that the "data+power" cable is giving off power. Is this normal? Cause I got the impression that the diode was supposed to prevent any backward flow and that cable should only receive power from the PC and nothing more.. I used a 1N4007 diode. I hope I didn't over heat it with my soldering iron when I removed it from an extra charger I had lying around.
Is it possible to add extra power to the data cable? I recentely bought an wireless usb modem and it requires 3000mW, so I need 0.6 + Amp. It only operates with a single usb cable for data and power. made in china
oh sorry. This should work for my situation. I thought you had 2 female USB.
Hey! As long as you use the diode there's absolutely no problem, the cable in the video above is used to power a HUB with 4 phones attached to it and all of them work flawlessly for data transfer while charging at the same time.
Baller.
Thanks for video , great 👍🏻
Thx that helpt a lot
What happens if I didn't use that diode and just disconnected the power wires from the data cable and connected them to the power only cable like in this video?
th-cam.com/video/uLuBuQUF61o/w-d-xo.html
Sorry I'm not into electronics, but I don't have this cable available for purchase where I live and I need to use my external WD my passport hdd with my xiaomi Redmi note 9s phone so I have to make the cable myself.
Nice way to ruin the video by doing an unnecessary fast forward
Hey! I've tried to make all the hard parts slower so it's easier to understand, what's the part you were confused with?
you have to stop recording videos with potato!!
Wrapper We'd love to provide higher quality videos but due to monetary constraints for now we're limited to this for now, who knows maybe one of this days we get new equipment ;/
its a shame you dont have more subscriber because you have good content
This is not succinct enough for a complete novice like mself to go ahead and attempt.