Thank you for the video, Jeb! I used your video as a guide for my modification project. Couple of adds, for anyone seeing the video and wanting to do similar: Adhesive falling off: The cabinet left the manufacturer with a light coat of oil, is why LED adhesive (or any adhesive) tend to fail. If you run your fingers through those surfaces, you can feel the oil. Not sure if that was intentional. I doubt it, because the cabinet is already painted so is protected from rusting. So I'm going to guess the workers hands were oily in their workshop. The FIRST thing folks should do when they get the cabinet delivered, is to wipe-down and clean off that layer of oil. I used a scrub and did 2-pass Dawn detergent, and then 2-pass water. There was ONE corner I missed behind the door hinge, and sure enough that's where my LED light stripe adhesive tends to fall off. Everywhere else that I cleaned properly, didn't have any issue with adhesive falling off. LED Lighting: Jeb's reco for motion-sensing LED package was a gem. It would have taken me a long time to find that combination at such value-price. Also, even though this isn't a "quick safe", but depending where in your home you put it, depending where/how you keep your keys, this COULD be one of your several go-to options in case of a home invasion. If so, you'd want the LED lights to come on automatically. So don't skim in getting a rotary-switch. Motion-sensing switch is the better way to go. And test the best motion sensor location, so you save that spot un-carpetted. (I have mine on the ceiling of the cabinet, roughly 5 inches into the cabinet.) Sitting cabinet onto a plywood: Cabinets like the one in your video, having a center vertical divider in the middle: The bottom of that divider is fixed by a screw, which went into the cabinet from the OUTSIDE, beneath the cabinet. The head of that screw makes the entire cabinet pop-up slightly. If you place the cabinet on the carpet you won't feel any different. But if the cabinet sits on hard floor, you'll notice the cabinet is wobbly because of that screw head sticking out. I sat my cabinet on a plywood. Where the problem-screw was, I drilled a recess for that screw head into the wood. I also dremeled a channel half-thickness in the wood, as to run my wiring. Two of the four cabinet floor anchor points are huge, big enough to pass through a plug. So the channel in my plywood helps to run the wiring out the back of the cabinet. Anchor the cabinet from inside to the wood. Now the wood won't slip/slide. Carpeting: The carpet tiles were a pain in the neck to work with. Didn't save me any time in measure + cut. Doesn't matter the carpet tiles are 12"x12", one would still need to measure & cut if want a nice look. Someone in another video suggested using a "roll carpet" from Lowe's; that might have being the cheaper option. If you can see that carpet at the local store before buying it, you can also check if the carpet sheds. The self-sticking carpet tiles I got sheds like crazy; really regret that particular type I used. Anchoring: It's true, we are not dealing with >$10K safes. But I still would maximize the level of security I can get with these $100~200 "cabinets". Anchor the back of the cabinet to the wall studs. If you're putting this in the house (vs in the garage), and you've got floor boards at base of the wall --> That floor board would not allow you to push the cabinet all the way back to touch the wall itself. You can "solve" this problem by getting same-thickness wood from local Lowe's or Home Depot. Use that as the "spacer", to fill-in between your cabinet and the wall. You'd want to check how wide your cabinet is, where are the anchor points, where are the wall studs, etc. The use of these wood spacer blocks should deny crowbars from accessing a wall stud as a leverage point. If you've done this right, when a thief tries to rip your cabinet off the wall using a crowbar, the only thing that crowbar will do, is put holes into the hollow drywall. Anchor screws should go a good 2" ~ 3" into the wall studs / wall frame. So check your distances. Add up: dry wall thickness, spacer thickness, your cabinet thickness, washer thickness. If I remember correctly, on my project there's roughly 1.5" ~ 1.75" length before I even reach the wall stud. So a 3.5" screw would only have gone 2" into the studs. A 4.5" screw would bury itself 3" into the stud and therefore more secure. This comes with ridiculous torque in order to drive into the wall, so you'd need a Hex head, not a Philips head. Now we're talking specialty screw sections in the hardware store. So do your research. Screws of that length, comes with corresponding ridiculous diameter. You ideally should pre-drill a proper hole (not too wide) into the wall studs, so your screw isn't putting a splitting pressure into those studs. This is same concept when you install anti kick-in strike plates for your front/back doors. How does all this anchoring help? You deny thieves the ability of throwing their entire body weight onto a crowbar against your cabinet. By keeping the cabinet upright, thieves could only utilize their "pushing" force, not their body weight + gravity + drop distance. It might seem like a lot of work; it is worth it. The front of the cabinet door is pretty hard to bend with a crowbar, when the only thing thieves can do is pushing against it, and not much angle to leverage against it. Those are my learnings from my project. Sharing it to help folks make their cabinets more effective. Happy mod'ing, all. :-)
Just bought one of these so we can put all of our shooting items in one place instead of all around the house. Need to modify so we can store everything and this was a great watch for ideas. Quick note for rivets if you haven't already. Drill those out and install from the outside, using washers on the interior. Should give you a much cleaner look.
Looks amazing. I just bought this locker. I'm gonna do aout the same stuff you did, but I'm going to assemble the interior first, and then cut pieces of thing, gray outdoor carpet to fit.
I have the same cabinet and I actually did put Velcro material that you can buy online 4 ft wide by 10 ft long and I glued it on to the door and that holds 10 pistols with no problem and I also put weather strips all the way around the door, now is nice and sealed and no vibration. I also bought the top cabinet that is 21x18x10 in also made by stack on and I did the same and that one holds 4 pistols on the door and I did put LED lights on both.
This is a great cabinet! I really like it! If those rivets bother you I might recommend Chicago screws which do come in black. I use them in leatherwork and they're strong and effective.
Eric, I see your commented date-stamped 2wks ago. Looks like a COVID-hunker-down like myself. :-) Check out the comments I posted to this video (literally just minutes ago); should help you with your mod on the cabinet.
@@jack765ful My cabinet arrived on Monday, but was missing the keys. Contacted StackOn and they are sending a set in 10-15 days, so hopefully I'll be able to see inside and do some of your mods in the near future.
I just bought my carpet for my 18 gun cabinet. I ended up getting a indoor/outdoor carpet that is similar to berber carpet. Thanks for sharing your upgrades.
I just got one 2 days ago on that offerup app pretty much new! 60 bux the 22 gun one. Came up! Added all the black felt fabric from walmart like speaker box kind all the way around, looks way better already 👍🏻
Love the upgrades. Looks really nice. I had one of these 18gun stack on cabinets and did some of the same upgrades you did. Worked great for what I needed it for, but as my guns and ammo grew I sold the cabinet and got the Winchester 26 safe from tractor supply. Its well worth the investment imo
@ Jen McConnell Regarding those Rivets...Just get two hammers, use one as a backstop & bang those mushroomed rivet heads that protrude on the outside flat...Kinda like doing bodywork on a car
Get a real safe. This gun cabinet is a false sense of security. A burglar will have this opened in under 30 seconds. A few kicks with your foot would do it. Or a quick pry with a crow bar. These cabinets are really only designed to keep kids away from guns.
I put LEDs in my safe. They are on all the time. Not much power, but they add a little heat which helps keep the moisture out. Acts like those heat rods they sell.
If you lined the outerwalls, top, floor, and door with type x sheetrock, you can add some fire resistance. That is what the more expensive safes do and a door seal.
Hocus Pocus Nice thought in theory, however if one was to do this, you’d never be able to use the divider and shelves that it comes with. You’d have to fabricate your own.
Thank you for the video, N!ce Modifications Well done. Quick question for you, do you have your gun cabinet mounted to your floor and wall? Recommendation for you, it's a good idea to place your safe - gun cabinet adjacent to a wall to make it more difficult for thieves to gain access with crowbars etc. What I'm saying is the side with the lock should be closest to the wall, safe-gun cabinet placed in a Corner, hinges Away from the wall that the side of the safe or gun cabinet is against. This will make it a Lot more difficult four thieves to gain access to your valuables. The ideal place is in a basement mounted to a (Concrete/Cement Floor and Wall) in the Corner. Also a great idea to build a Sturdy! cabinet, also secure to the wall and floor around your gun cabinet or Safe. Alternatively in a closet, as stated. : )Tyler
I just went to Lowes and looked at what they had in bulk rolls and picked from there selection. It's nothing fancy and something they should stock regularly
really nice job. could drill them rivots out, rivot from outside in, and on inside use a small washer, push it on and rivot, careful not to get pinched when sqeezing the rivot.
Great ideas. I'll suggest maybe finding a way to keep your boxed ammo in an ammo box that seals. The cabinet will be subject to your environmental conditions. Like mine it's humid.
Some/many carpets, especially cheaper ones from China, will have chemicals in them that can corrode guns either from contact, or even just off-gassing. The foam included should be inert (not acidic, no off-gassing, no reactions). 'Floaty noodles' are also supposed to be inert, and are used in conservation/museum circles for rigid support or even just padding for collection items.
Great video!! I just picked up an 18 gun stack-on cabinet and now I’m inspired to make it better. The link you provided for the LED tape is for 12v power. How are you powering them? A “how to” video showing the wiring connectors, the motion switch, and power supply would be incredible.
I would keep the lights on as the the electric current and the light can help dissipate humidity . I realize that these cabinets are not air tight. But one could take measures to increase the prospect of Blocking out humidity. Adding a seal to the door, Epoxying excessive holes not in use.And using o-rings on your bolts you are using and one can add a Silica gel container that you heat in oven to renew.
No need for any humidity concerns when cabinet is in a temperature controlled environment..(inside). if stored outside in garage, then yes. Its vented, holes in top of cabinet and non sealed door..not air tight..gets plenty of ambient air
@@waysmt1 & Timothy, I think it's not as simple as sealing the cabinet air-tight. As a cabinet, you'd open it when taking out or putting back your equipment. The moment door opens, air exchanged. Whatever humidity that was in ambient is now in the cabinet. There is daily temperature swings. When temperature drops (that includes inside the cabinet), the %RH just went up, even though it's the same absolute humidity (grams of water in the air, per cubic air volume). The point of using heat rod, is keeping the inside temperature elevated. So whatever level of humidity got into the cabinet, when the temperature is raised the %RH reduces. The rod does not need to make the interior "very dry". Just need to keep it "dry enough" so your firearms don't rust.
The reason your door had a lot of play while locked is because the lock mechanism is reversed. The shorter side has a raised portion to snug the door up against the frame. But seeing how you used carpet to mitigate the rattle, I think I might turn mine around. The metal-on-metal makes a scraping feeling while locking/unlocking that is a little unpleasant.
I recently purchased this. Unfortunately the holes were not in the correct location on one of the sides. So I had to drill holes on one side to get everything installed. So something for people to be mindful of.
Walmart has the 22 gun version of this for 140 at the moment. Snagged one. ETA- your upgrades are pretty nice. Doing some of those :) thanks for the vid
The keys finally arrived for mine and I got it put together last night. I had to make some modifications to make it a bit more useful for my purposes. I lowered the gun braces on one side from 38 to 32 inches as they were too high for most my rifles, and on the other side I modified the shelves so I can hold my short PCCs on the other side. Posted a video here: th-cam.com/video/OhWT1B5BDzo/w-d-xo.html
@@itorchedparis just out of curiosity, what type of spray adhesive did you end up using for this? I just ordered the same cabinet and will be doing these upgrades
@@edc_7321 I couldn't tell you the exact brand name, but it was contact adhesive. You spray both the carpet and the metal, let them dry for a bit and then put them in place. I put them in place before spraying, and then folded over one half of the carpet, sprayed it, then rolled in back over and did the other half. This way you don't have one full piece to try and line up perfectly.
Picked up the latest model today! Love what you did! Did you or do you have an interior frame support on the door? If so, how did you lay the carpet on the inside of the door and make it look flush and flat? Short of cutting the “
Nothing wrong with using a Stack-On as a starter locker. Most of us did. Eventually, you’ll want to just save up and get an actual safe to better protect your investment in the firearms you’ve accumulated.
My stack on that i got had all the shelves bent up sent it back to get a new one and the same thing the shelves where all banged up so i just got my money back.
My Stack On lock just failed on me and it's basically locked! Good thing it's only used for ammo storage. Gonna ca) Stack On...hopefully they got a solution to this problem.
I honestly couldn't tell you man, it's been a couple years. If you just make some simple internal measurements and add them up, you should be fine. The carpet is not that expensive so even if you over estimate and have extra, it's not the end of the world.
Nice setup. I'm going to be getting this because I'm getting my first AR-15 soon, and the wife demands that I get a safe for it. The only thing I would have changed is maybe use some adhesive glue to append the ammo holders on the door. They would stay on, but this would also make them a permanent fixture. I guess that really only works if you don't plan on changing the layout. Great video! You can get liquid nails dirt cheap at Lowes or Home Depot, just a thought! Edit: Also, what color/brand of carpeting is that?
You don't need this particular model of cabinet. From what I've seen when searching for cabinets, all the ones in the $100~300 range are similar to what Jeb showed in the video. The ideas in Jeb's video, would work on pretty much all of them.
Approximately how many square feet of carpet did it take? Picking one of these cabinets up tonight and really like what you did. Not gonna lie I plan on copying your awesome job!
Copy it all you want! To be honest though, I have no idea how much carpet it took it's been a couple years now. You'll just have to measure it to come up with an approximate figure
I originally tried doing the rivets from the outside in, but the fabric organizer just slipped off the rivet on the inside. The washed are a great idea though and would probably prevent that from happening. It doesn't really bother me at this point , but if I feel ambition and want to re do them, I will definitely take your advice. Thanks!
Nice vid... Do you keep this in a garage or house? I need cabinet for my garage which is hot and cold and moist being near the beach and evening fog... How is the humidity control on this?
I carpeted everything before adding the shelves. It would be too much of a hassle (for me) to try and carpet around the shelves. The only minor issue with doing it this way is that you lose a bit of clearance between the walls and the shelves so it's a much tighter fit, making aligning the holes for screw more of a challenge, but it can still be done.
@@itorchedparis That is probably what made the difference for me (of my method being a pain in the neck). I didn't want to mess with squeezing the shelves & tight fit. So I have the shelves in first, and put carpet around the shelves.
Thank you for the video, Jeb!
I used your video as a guide for my modification project.
Couple of adds, for anyone seeing the video and wanting to do similar:
Adhesive falling off:
The cabinet left the manufacturer with a light coat of oil, is why LED adhesive (or any adhesive) tend to fail.
If you run your fingers through those surfaces, you can feel the oil. Not sure if that was intentional. I doubt it, because the cabinet is already painted so is protected from rusting. So I'm going to guess the workers hands were oily in their workshop.
The FIRST thing folks should do when they get the cabinet delivered, is to wipe-down and clean off that layer of oil. I used a scrub and did 2-pass Dawn detergent, and then 2-pass water. There was ONE corner I missed behind the door hinge, and sure enough that's where my LED light stripe adhesive tends to fall off. Everywhere else that I cleaned properly, didn't have any issue with adhesive falling off.
LED Lighting:
Jeb's reco for motion-sensing LED package was a gem. It would have taken me a long time to find that combination at such value-price.
Also, even though this isn't a "quick safe", but depending where in your home you put it, depending where/how you keep your keys, this COULD be one of your several go-to options in case of a home invasion. If so, you'd want the LED lights to come on automatically. So don't skim in getting a rotary-switch.
Motion-sensing switch is the better way to go. And test the best motion sensor location, so you save that spot un-carpetted. (I have mine on the ceiling of the cabinet, roughly 5 inches into the cabinet.)
Sitting cabinet onto a plywood:
Cabinets like the one in your video, having a center vertical divider in the middle: The bottom of that divider is fixed by a screw, which went into the cabinet from the OUTSIDE, beneath the cabinet. The head of that screw makes the entire cabinet pop-up slightly. If you place the cabinet on the carpet you won't feel any different. But if the cabinet sits on hard floor, you'll notice the cabinet is wobbly because of that screw head sticking out.
I sat my cabinet on a plywood. Where the problem-screw was, I drilled a recess for that screw head into the wood.
I also dremeled a channel half-thickness in the wood, as to run my wiring. Two of the four cabinet floor anchor points are huge, big enough to pass through a plug. So the channel in my plywood helps to run the wiring out the back of the cabinet.
Anchor the cabinet from inside to the wood. Now the wood won't slip/slide.
Carpeting:
The carpet tiles were a pain in the neck to work with. Didn't save me any time in measure + cut. Doesn't matter the carpet tiles are 12"x12", one would still need to measure & cut if want a nice look.
Someone in another video suggested using a "roll carpet" from Lowe's; that might have being the cheaper option. If you can see that carpet at the local store before buying it, you can also check if the carpet sheds. The self-sticking carpet tiles I got sheds like crazy; really regret that particular type I used.
Anchoring:
It's true, we are not dealing with >$10K safes. But I still would maximize the level of security I can get with these $100~200 "cabinets".
Anchor the back of the cabinet to the wall studs. If you're putting this in the house (vs in the garage), and you've got floor boards at base of the wall --> That floor board would not allow you to push the cabinet all the way back to touch the wall itself.
You can "solve" this problem by getting same-thickness wood from local Lowe's or Home Depot. Use that as the "spacer", to fill-in between your cabinet and the wall.
You'd want to check how wide your cabinet is, where are the anchor points, where are the wall studs, etc. The use of these wood spacer blocks should deny crowbars from accessing a wall stud as a leverage point. If you've done this right, when a thief tries to rip your cabinet off the wall using a crowbar, the only thing that crowbar will do, is put holes into the hollow drywall.
Anchor screws should go a good 2" ~ 3" into the wall studs / wall frame. So check your distances. Add up: dry wall thickness, spacer thickness, your cabinet thickness, washer thickness. If I remember correctly, on my project there's roughly 1.5" ~ 1.75" length before I even reach the wall stud. So a 3.5" screw would only have gone 2" into the studs. A 4.5" screw would bury itself 3" into the stud and therefore more secure. This comes with ridiculous torque in order to drive into the wall, so you'd need a Hex head, not a Philips head. Now we're talking specialty screw sections in the hardware store. So do your research.
Screws of that length, comes with corresponding ridiculous diameter. You ideally should pre-drill a proper hole (not too wide) into the wall studs, so your screw isn't putting a splitting pressure into those studs. This is same concept when you install anti kick-in strike plates for your front/back doors.
How does all this anchoring help? You deny thieves the ability of throwing their entire body weight onto a crowbar against your cabinet. By keeping the cabinet upright, thieves could only utilize their "pushing" force, not their body weight + gravity + drop distance. It might seem like a lot of work; it is worth it. The front of the cabinet door is pretty hard to bend with a crowbar, when the only thing thieves can do is pushing against it, and not much angle to leverage against it.
Those are my learnings from my project. Sharing it to help folks make their cabinets more effective.
Happy mod'ing, all. :-)
Thank you for taking the time to share this, it was very helpful.
Great advice my man!!!
Thanks so much, saving this all.
Any other improvements you've made?
I'm customizing mine for my RV. Thanks for the video. Lots of ideas. Got the turret press in!
Great ideas - thanks for sharing. Carpet on the lock - - I'm doing that.
Just bought one of these so we can put all of our shooting items in one place instead of all around the house. Need to modify so we can store everything and this was a great watch for ideas.
Quick note for rivets if you haven't already. Drill those out and install from the outside, using washers on the interior. Should give you a much cleaner look.
I own a carpet business, you did a great job carpeting your cabinet.
David Chenard well thank you!! Took extra time and care to ensure it turned out well
Looks amazing. I just bought this locker. I'm gonna do aout the same stuff you did, but I'm going to assemble the interior first, and then cut pieces of thing, gray outdoor carpet to fit.
You took a lower end cabinet and really made it nice! The lights are really trick!
Very nice. I really like the LED lights. Well done. And thanks for some ideas.
I have the same cabinet and I actually did put Velcro material that you can buy online 4 ft wide by 10 ft long and I glued it on to the door and that holds 10 pistols with no problem and I also put weather strips all the way around the door, now is nice and sealed and no vibration. I also bought the top cabinet that is 21x18x10 in also made by stack on and I did the same and that one holds 4 pistols on the door and I did put LED lights on both.
This cabinet is on sale at Tractor Supply for $95, from the regular price of $159. Picked up a couple.
Same here.
That is actually the 14 gun cabinet.
I looked at it but it is gone now
you are quite the craftsman, my friend
Older vid but best I’ve seen. Looks great 👍
Great stuff. Thank you!
I just ordered one. Shopped around and found Walmart to be the cheapest ($157, 5/2020) and free shipping.
This is a great cabinet! I really like it! If those rivets bother you I might recommend Chicago screws which do come in black. I use them in leatherwork and they're strong and effective.
Great job man I’m working on a soda machine safe right now got some good ideas from this thanks
I know this comment was 9 months ago but that sounds awesome!
Thanks for the great ideas. Nice video. Got one arriving next week.
Eric, I see your commented date-stamped 2wks ago.
Looks like a COVID-hunker-down like myself. :-)
Check out the comments I posted to this video (literally just minutes ago); should help you with your mod on the cabinet.
@@jack765ful My cabinet arrived on Monday, but was missing the keys. Contacted StackOn and they are sending a set in 10-15 days, so hopefully I'll be able to see inside and do some of your mods in the near future.
Nice work! I did a very similar upgrade to my 18 slot stack on. Carpet, lights with a clothes dryer door switch and a peg board on the door.
Nice video! I just picked up one today I’m ready modify it.
Looks awesome bro. Will get my cabinet soon and try some of these ideas. Thanks
pretty crafty my friend. Great video
I just bought my carpet for my 18 gun cabinet. I ended up getting a indoor/outdoor carpet that is similar to berber carpet. Thanks for sharing your upgrades.
How much carpet did you order? Thanks
Great job
Great video with lots of useful tips!
I just got one 2 days ago on that offerup app pretty much new! 60 bux the 22 gun one. Came up! Added all the black felt fabric from walmart like speaker box kind all the way around, looks way better already 👍🏻
What adhesive did you use to attach the black felt fabric? Thanks.
bob69075
Loctite spray adhesive worked really good
Love it brother. Assembling mine now. Wife is for a movie! Haha!
Good job just ordered some rifle and ammo cabinets, you gave me some ideas thanks.
Love the upgrades. Looks really nice. I had one of these 18gun stack on cabinets and did some of the same upgrades you did. Worked great for what I needed it for, but as my guns and ammo grew I sold the cabinet and got the Winchester 26 safe from tractor supply. Its well worth the investment imo
@ Jen McConnell Regarding those Rivets...Just get two hammers, use one as a backstop & bang those mushroomed rivet heads that protrude on the outside flat...Kinda like doing bodywork on a car
Very impressive upgrade. Really nice job man!
Great modifications. Excellent video.
Awsome video. Thanx for sharing and giving alot of us new ideas 2 improve our cabinets.
You need the rgb lighting lol it’s party time lighting lol every time you open that badboy
Nice.
Been lookin for a decently priced Gun Cabinet
My collection is starting to grow and I dont feel safe just leaving them in the closet any more.
Get a real safe. This gun cabinet is a false sense of security.
A burglar will have this opened in under 30 seconds. A few kicks with your foot would do it. Or a quick pry with a crow bar.
These cabinets are really only designed to keep kids away from guns.
I put LEDs in my safe. They are on all the time.
Not much power, but they add a little heat which helps keep the moisture out.
Acts like those heat rods they sell.
Nice work, thanks for sharing
If you lined the outerwalls, top, floor, and door with type x sheetrock, you can add some fire resistance. That is what the more expensive safes do and a door seal.
Hocus Pocus Nice thought in theory, however if one was to do this, you’d never be able to use the divider and shelves that it comes with. You’d have to fabricate your own.
Looks great thanks for the video and some ideas
Good job on the mods!
Nice! Great workmanship!
I like it , I have the same cabinet as well bt now I wanna add the carpet to ! Clean work u did
Oh shit, we've got a keyboard Rambo!
Plus, I'm a truck driver! I'm more man in one hour of my life than you could acheive in a life time!
Thank you. Interesting stuff.
Thank you for the video, N!ce Modifications Well done. Quick question for you, do you have your gun cabinet mounted to your floor and wall?
Recommendation for you, it's a good idea to place your safe - gun cabinet adjacent to a wall to make it more difficult for thieves to gain access with crowbars etc. What I'm saying is the side with the lock should be closest to the wall, safe-gun cabinet placed in a Corner, hinges Away from the wall that the side of the safe or gun cabinet is against. This will make it a Lot more difficult four thieves to gain access to your valuables.
The ideal place is in a basement mounted to a (Concrete/Cement Floor and Wall) in the Corner. Also a great idea to build a Sturdy! cabinet, also secure to the wall and floor around your gun cabinet or Safe. Alternatively in a closet, as stated.
: )Tyler
This is great! I would love to buy and do it like you. But all the measuring would.drive me crazy
love the upgrades. just wondering can you link me to the carpet you bought?
I just went to Lowes and looked at what they had in bulk rolls and picked from there selection. It's nothing fancy and something they should stock regularly
really nice job. could drill them rivots out, rivot from outside in, and on inside use a small washer, push it on and rivot, careful not to get pinched when sqeezing the rivot.
Great ideas. I'll suggest maybe finding a way to keep your boxed ammo in an ammo box that seals. The cabinet will be subject to your environmental conditions. Like mine it's humid.
Some/many carpets, especially cheaper ones from China, will have chemicals in them that can corrode guns either from contact, or even just off-gassing. The foam included should be inert (not acidic, no off-gassing, no reactions). 'Floaty noodles' are also supposed to be inert, and are used in conservation/museum circles for rigid support or even just padding for collection items.
Nice upgrades I ordered my stack on a few hrs ago
How you liking it?
@@Alex-yv5mq it serves it purpose I got it in deal $120 if I remember correctly. However I am running out of room with 10guns.
@@RavenTacticalLLC get rifle rods makes everything easier
Great video!! I just picked up an 18 gun stack-on cabinet and now I’m inspired to make it better. The link you provided for the LED tape is for 12v power. How are you powering them? A “how to” video showing the wiring connectors, the motion switch, and power supply would be incredible.
Looks nice. Good work
I would keep the lights on as the the electric current and the light can help dissipate humidity . I realize that these cabinets are not air tight. But one could take measures to increase the prospect of Blocking out humidity. Adding a seal to the door, Epoxying excessive holes not in use.And using o-rings on your bolts you are using and one can add a Silica gel container that you heat in oven to renew.
No need for any humidity concerns when cabinet is in a temperature controlled environment..(inside). if stored outside in garage, then yes. Its vented, holes in top of cabinet and non sealed door..not air tight..gets plenty of ambient air
@@waysmt1 & Timothy,
I think it's not as simple as sealing the cabinet air-tight.
As a cabinet, you'd open it when taking out or putting back your equipment. The moment door opens, air exchanged. Whatever humidity that was in ambient is now in the cabinet.
There is daily temperature swings. When temperature drops (that includes inside the cabinet), the %RH just went up, even though it's the same absolute humidity (grams of water in the air, per cubic air volume).
The point of using heat rod, is keeping the inside temperature elevated. So whatever level of humidity got into the cabinet, when the temperature is raised the %RH reduces.
The rod does not need to make the interior "very dry". Just need to keep it "dry enough" so your firearms don't rust.
Great tips, thanks for this.
Nice job, looks great
Nice job 👍🏼
3 m molding tape and few drops of super glue spaced out holds down led strips on my bass boat
The reason your door had a lot of play while locked is because the lock mechanism is reversed. The shorter side has a raised portion to snug the door up against the frame. But seeing how you used carpet to mitigate the rattle, I think I might turn mine around. The metal-on-metal makes a scraping feeling while locking/unlocking that is a little unpleasant.
Is is possible to change out the lock to a differnt type? maybe a padlock or a keypad version
and to think I thought I was clever for putting up my patches on the side of the safe.
Like the carpet idea. Anyone try bed liner?
I recently purchased this. Unfortunately the holes were not in the correct location on one of the sides. So I had to drill holes on one side to get everything installed. So something for people to be mindful of.
Walmart has the 22 gun version of this for 140 at the moment. Snagged one.
ETA- your upgrades are pretty nice. Doing some of those :) thanks for the vid
Does your have all these shelves or is it just space?
Looks great! Did u also roll the carpet around the front vertical divider that the slings are hanging on?
Yes I did!
Do you have the measurements for the carpet? If so can you share the measurements? Very nice!!
Nice video. What made you choose the LE 12V LED Strip Light, SMD 2835, non-waterproof, daylight, specifically; with no power adapter included?
The keys finally arrived for mine and I got it put together last night. I had to make some modifications to make it a bit more useful for my purposes.
I lowered the gun braces on one side from 38 to 32 inches as they were too high for most my rifles, and on the other side I modified the shelves so I can hold my short PCCs on the other side. Posted a video here: th-cam.com/video/OhWT1B5BDzo/w-d-xo.html
Do you still have the carpet measurements?
nice work man
Now that time has passed since you uploaded this video, how did the carpeting stand up as far as the adhesive?
Not a single issue. Still looks as good as the day I installed it, and it's even been through a move from one place to another.
@@itorchedparis just out of curiosity, what type of spray adhesive did you end up using for this? I just ordered the same cabinet and will be doing these upgrades
@@edc_7321 I couldn't tell you the exact brand name, but it was contact adhesive. You spray both the carpet and the metal, let them dry for a bit and then put them in place. I put them in place before spraying, and then folded over one half of the carpet, sprayed it, then rolled in back over and did the other half. This way you don't have one full piece to try and line up perfectly.
Does this come with the long gun clips/rack separators to keep your rifles standing up ?
Picked up the latest model today! Love what you did!
Did you or do you have an interior frame support on the door? If so, how did you lay the carpet on the inside of the door and make it look flush and flat?
Short of cutting the “
I’ll upload my cabinet soon!
Nothing wrong with using a Stack-On as a starter locker. Most of us did.
Eventually, you’ll want to just save up and get an actual safe to better protect your investment in the firearms you’ve accumulated.
Nice mods
Just wondering did you super glue the carpet inside?
I used contact adhesive in a spray can. I did it 4.5 years ago and it's still looking perfect!
Excellent
Great job!
My stack on that i got had all the shelves bent up sent it back to get a new one and the same thing the shelves where all banged up so i just got my money back.
how much does the safe weigh empty?
How much carpeting did it take?
My Stack On lock just failed on me and it's basically locked! Good thing it's only used for ammo storage. Gonna ca) Stack On...hopefully they got a solution to this problem.
they sell replacement locks
@@hondasaurusrex6998 ....thanks! But i need to open my cabinet first😂😂😂
@@94Whiskers drill out the old cylinder
@@hondasaurusrex6998 ....i guess that's the only way😩😩😩😫😫😫... I appreciate ur help👍
@@94Whiskers good luck
This looks great! How many yards of carpet did you approximately buy?
I honestly couldn't tell you man, it's been a couple years. If you just make some simple internal measurements and add them up, you should be fine. The carpet is not that expensive so even if you over estimate and have extra, it's not the end of the world.
Nice setup. I'm going to be getting this because I'm getting my first AR-15 soon, and the wife demands that I get a safe for it. The only thing I would have changed is maybe use some adhesive glue to append the ammo holders on the door. They would stay on, but this would also make them a permanent fixture. I guess that really only works if you don't plan on changing the layout.
Great video! You can get liquid nails dirt cheap at Lowes or Home Depot, just a thought!
Edit:
Also, what color/brand of carpeting is that?
If you could, you should add an update of the new things you've done
I would but I haven't done a thing to it since I uploaded this video. I keep trying to think of new things to do but haven't come up with anything yet
Ur a goddamn genius
What is the model number of that safe. Did it come with the shelves. I really like it. Great job
Can't remember the model number. It did come with the shelves
@@itorchedparis GCM-1918-GX Just bought one from Academy Sports for $179 +$20 off coupon.
@@sadstatue1329 GCM-1918-DX
You don't need this particular model of cabinet.
From what I've seen when searching for cabinets, all the ones in the $100~300 range are similar to what Jeb showed in the video.
The ideas in Jeb's video, would work on pretty much all of them.
Approximately how many square feet of carpet did it take? Picking one of these cabinets up tonight and really like what you did. Not gonna lie I plan on copying your awesome job!
Copy it all you want! To be honest though, I have no idea how much carpet it took it's been a couple years now. You'll just have to measure it to come up with an approximate figure
The carpet look good. But can it handle heat? If the cabinet was to get hot because of a fire that carpet might melt all over your arsenal.
Well this safe was never meant to with fire in the first place. Calling it a safe isn't even the right term, it's just a lockable cabinet.
redo reverts go out side in and use washers inside then flush out side
I originally tried doing the rivets from the outside in, but the fabric organizer just slipped off the rivet on the inside. The washed are a great idea though and would probably prevent that from happening. It doesn't really bother me at this point , but if I feel ambition and want to re do them, I will definitely take your advice. Thanks!
Having trouble finding those barrel holders were can I find them ?
Amazon has them
@@soberparty1 thank you. what are they called on Amazon ?
@@marshallhogan3462 pistol hangers for a safe.
Nice vid... Do you keep this in a garage or house? I need cabinet for my garage which is hot and cold and moist being near the beach and evening fog... How is the humidity control on this?
I keep it in the house. It's not air tight what so ever so I would imagine the humidity would be similar to the environmental humidity.
update?
Cool ,very nice
how did you bend the LED strip around the corners?
They make corner connectors. Just looked up LED strip light connectors on amazon and you should find what I'm talking about
Good work!!
You got spiders in your gun safe
Would you carpet it after putting the shelves in?
I carpeted everything before adding the shelves. It would be too much of a hassle (for me) to try and carpet around the shelves. The only minor issue with doing it this way is that you lose a bit of clearance between the walls and the shelves so it's a much tighter fit, making aligning the holes for screw more of a challenge, but it can still be done.
@@itorchedparis
That is probably what made the difference for me (of my method being a pain in the neck).
I didn't want to mess with squeezing the shelves & tight fit. So I have the shelves in first, and put carpet around the shelves.
Did it come with the divider and shelves?!?
Yes it did
Jeb McConnell it looks great!
how much space did you leave at the back of the top shelf to alloy guns to go in
There was already a pre cut space for this in the upper shelf so I didn't have to do anything other than what the manufacturer already designed
How did you mount the wood on the top shelf
Just a nut and bolt. Had I done it differently now I probably would have used a rivet with machine screws for a cleaner look
Killer job! Though with all the time and effort could of almost bought a cheapo actual gun safe
How you get the carpet on their is it some type of adhesive or is it screw on?
Alex Santiago spray glue
Nice looks Dope 💯 Ima have to pay you 2 do my safe like that 😂