Excellent! I just had a new GRX 1x set up installed on my bike, and it shifted great. After a week of two, the cable stretched and the shifting started feeling ropey. Rolling the barrel adjuster the most likely direction - clockwise - made things worse. So I tried it the other way. Which worked treat. Now I know why! Cheers
Maybe I'm thick mate but I don't understand how adjusting the outer plastic cable, effects the inner wire? Surely the wire is designed to float up and down the outer and to tighten it, you would have to grab the wire itself? How can moving the outer plastic tighten the inner when it's not gripping it tight so it can move freely? I've just fitted a new derailleur you see and it uses a different barrel adjuster. It's just a metal bolt with a hole for the housing that's hollow for the wire to run through. I'm having a nightmare fitting the new mech and it's all blowing my little mind
Okay I was in the same boat as you and looking up every video I could find, but I *think* I finally got it now, so let me describe it how I think it works (sorry, lengthy explanation ahead, but all the "short and simple" explanations didn't click for me). Let's identify a few points along the length of the inner cable. Inner cable is attached to the derailleur lever at point A. Inner cable goes into the outer cable at point B, which is a point fixed to the frame of the bike. Inner cable comes out of the outer cable at point C, which is also a point fixed to the bike frame. Finally, inner cable attaches to the shifting lever on the steering wheel at point D. Now as I mentioned points B and C are at fixed positions attached to the frame, so they will never move. The inner cable is a fixed length, and its length is combined of 3 sections. A->B + B->C + C->D. Now when you turn the barrel adjuster so that it comes out, it essentially lengthens the outer cable. This means that length B->C will increase. Since points B and C are attached to the frame, it basically means that the outer cable has to buckle out a bit. This means, the outer cable won't be in a straight line between points B and C anymore, so the length that the inner cable traverses between fixed points B and C increases, even though B and C are fixed points on the frame. This is because the inner cable is forced to follow the buckled path of the outer cable, so it travels in a less direct route from point B to point C. Now if B->C is longer, but the length of the inner cable remains the same, that means A->B and C->D must become shorter. Because B and C are fixed points on the frame, that means point A has to move towards point B (i.e. the point where the inner cable attaches to the derailleur gets pulled towards the fixed point B, and thus gets tighter) and point D has to move towards point C (i.e. the point where the inner cable attaches to the shifting lever on the steering wheel gets pulled towards fixed point C, and thus gets tighter).
To keep things short, you're increasing the travel distance of your cable. But since the cable is attached to both ends, it wants to retract, but it can't, so it pulls whatever is attached to it. In this case, a derailleur.
The cable broke on my rear derailer so I'm in the process of replacing the inner and outer cables, and re-indexing the right shifter. This video provides critical information to this end.Thanks!
Thank you for a very nice video. Especially the details about the R8000 barrel adjuster was usefull. I have been wondering why my adjuster seemed to work and other's not. Now I know why. Purely by luck I have crushed the outer rubbery peace between my fingers while turning, and then it adjusts the cable tension all right. And as it is very rare that the derailleur needs adjusting, I'll wait and see until it stops working, and now I know how to replace the barrel adjuster with an older version. Thanks again.
I am glad that you took them apart, to show what is happening inside. My bike has two-part barrel adjusters on the handle bars and the brakes. I don't know if this is bad or good, or why mine have 2 nuts at each end.
Gah, still can't understand how a thingy around a metal cable (like on my Fuji rear shifter) can tighten that cable. I could understand if the cable was not continuous, so it was moving the 2 ends closer or apart.
Got it! The distance of the path between lever and derailleur (or brake) is determined by cable housing length plus bare sections. The barrel adjuster lengthens the housing i.e. lengthens the path (or shortens). But the steel cable does not stretch, so the derailleur must move towards (or away) the lever.
Is the clip, that is on the barrel adjuster thread when new, just there to hold everything together until you assemble things or does it have a purpose? I'm using the barrel adjusters on the downtube which already has threaded bosses welded.
06:54 "shortening the distance there".... Where exactly? I spent the last 15 minutes thinking about this mystical screw. I know lefty-loosey tightens the cable, but I just can't get my head around it. For some reason. Anyways: you're the first guy I find to actually take the time to explain HOW it works, rather than how to operate it. Thanks! I think I got it! I think :)
As you turn it counter-clockwise the barrel adjuster pushes the cable outwards, which doesn't shorten the cable, but shortens the space that it occupies. Imagine holding a ruler between the palms of your hands at its two short sides. If you push one palm towards the other the ruler will start to bend as you increase the tension. Same applies to the cable.
Thank you . Been trying to understand this for ages. But the cable runs through the outer cable and adjuster barrel independent so how does it tension the steel cable is the part I couldn’t get my head around 🥴🤡. You have just explained it for me🥲. Now I can sleep easy😂👍
How to put back a barrel adjuster if it comes out all the way while removing the slack ? How to make aure the inner wire would have the last adjusted tightness while putting in back ?
I have to replace shifting cable barrel adjusters on my down tube. They are old school late 90s style for Campagnolo cables. Does it matter if the barrel adjusters are not made for campagnolo. I’m assuming barrel adjusters would work with all cables. Am I right? Could I just recycle some adjusters from some unused old bike? Thanks
what about the L and H screws when istalling, do they need to be full screwed all the way or they have to be very loose thats about the taken off? im new and trying to see where should i start with it
Hi, I recently broke a frame and swapped everything over to a new frame with internal cables, I didn't fit barrel adjusters and I'm getting chain rub on the front mech, will a barrel adjuster stop this happening? Thanks!
Philip probably won’t help as the limit screws effect how far the derailleur moves left and right, depends where the chain is rubbing could just be alignment issue.
@@FreeToCycle yeah I thought that. The old friction levers were better on the front mech! Thanks anyway.
4 ปีที่แล้ว
@@ThePhilvantwo Friction levers use limiting screws too, thats pretty much all you can adjust to stop rubbing, you moved the derailleur to a different bike its not uncommon to have problems with rubbing after a cable change never mind physically moving the derailleur. Fitting a barrel adjuster would be a good idea, but as long as the cable is hand tight you should be good to go. Whether you're using a double or triple chain ring, don't get too hung up about it not rubbing on every gear, lower limit set on the smallest ring and highest on largest, simply because its bad practice to run the in the lowest rear cog from the largest chain ring, due to tension on the chain, if you can get it so it doesn't great but better not to do it on the road. I talked to many who spent hours tearing their hair out to stop rubbing from a gear ration they're never going to use.
Excellent!
I just had a new GRX 1x set up installed on my bike, and it shifted great. After a week of two, the cable stretched and the shifting started feeling ropey.
Rolling the barrel adjuster the most likely direction - clockwise - made things worse. So I tried it the other way. Which worked treat.
Now I know why!
Cheers
Maybe I'm thick mate but I don't understand how adjusting the outer plastic cable, effects the inner wire? Surely the wire is designed to float up and down the outer and to tighten it, you would have to grab the wire itself? How can moving the outer plastic tighten the inner when it's not gripping it tight so it can move freely? I've just fitted a new derailleur you see and it uses a different barrel adjuster. It's just a metal bolt with a hole for the housing that's hollow for the wire to run through. I'm having a nightmare fitting the new mech and it's all blowing my little mind
Think of it as someone pulling on the sleeve of your jumper.
Okay I was in the same boat as you and looking up every video I could find, but I *think* I finally got it now, so let me describe it how I think it works (sorry, lengthy explanation ahead, but all the "short and simple" explanations didn't click for me).
Let's identify a few points along the length of the inner cable. Inner cable is attached to the derailleur lever at point A. Inner cable goes into the outer cable at point B, which is a point fixed to the frame of the bike. Inner cable comes out of the outer cable at point C, which is also a point fixed to the bike frame. Finally, inner cable attaches to the shifting lever on the steering wheel at point D. Now as I mentioned points B and C are at fixed positions attached to the frame, so they will never move. The inner cable is a fixed length, and its length is combined of 3 sections. A->B + B->C + C->D.
Now when you turn the barrel adjuster so that it comes out, it essentially lengthens the outer cable. This means that length B->C will increase. Since points B and C are attached to the frame, it basically means that the outer cable has to buckle out a bit. This means, the outer cable won't be in a straight line between points B and C anymore, so the length that the inner cable traverses between fixed points B and C increases, even though B and C are fixed points on the frame. This is because the inner cable is forced to follow the buckled path of the outer cable, so it travels in a less direct route from point B to point C.
Now if B->C is longer, but the length of the inner cable remains the same, that means A->B and C->D must become shorter. Because B and C are fixed points on the frame, that means point A has to move towards point B (i.e. the point where the inner cable attaches to the derailleur gets pulled towards the fixed point B, and thus gets tighter) and point D has to move towards point C (i.e. the point where the inner cable attaches to the shifting lever on the steering wheel gets pulled towards fixed point C, and thus gets tighter).
To keep things short, you're increasing the travel distance of your cable. But since the cable is attached to both ends, it wants to retract, but it can't, so it pulls whatever is attached to it. In this case, a derailleur.
@@spinnie0great explanation. Thanks for writing that
@@ArthurDthanks
Thank you for explaining what barrel adjusters actually do!
Amazingly detailled video !
Invaluable information thanks for your hard work
_What you understand you will not forget._ Thank you chap 👍
Good work! In other words, by compressing (decompressing) the outer cable (housing), the barrel adjuster tightens (untightens) the cable.
Thanks for that, good explanation.
And thanks again, I think you were as thorough as it could be. Good job.
The cable broke on my rear derailer so I'm in the process of replacing the inner and outer cables, and re-indexing the right shifter. This video provides critical information to this end.Thanks!
Thank you for a very nice video. Especially the details about the R8000 barrel adjuster was usefull. I have been wondering why my adjuster seemed to work and other's not. Now I know why. Purely by luck I have crushed the outer rubbery peace between my fingers while turning, and then it adjusts the cable tension all right. And as it is very rare that the derailleur needs adjusting, I'll wait and see until it stops working, and now I know how to replace the barrel adjuster with an older version. Thanks again.
very practical and easy to understand
nice deep explanation, Thanks
Very well explained , thanks !
Can you use a in line barrel adjuster down by the derailleur if your derailleur doesnt have one?
Thanks - Great video!
Well explained 👏
I am glad that you took them apart, to show what is happening inside. My bike has two-part barrel adjusters on the handle bars and the brakes. I don't know if this is bad or good, or why mine have 2 nuts at each end.
Gah, still can't understand how a thingy around a metal cable (like on my Fuji rear shifter) can tighten that cable. I could understand if the cable was not continuous, so it was moving the 2 ends closer or apart.
Got it! The distance of the path between lever and derailleur (or brake) is determined by cable housing length plus bare sections. The barrel adjuster lengthens the housing i.e. lengthens the path (or shortens). But the steel cable does not stretch, so the derailleur must move towards (or away) the lever.
Is the clip, that is on the barrel adjuster thread when new, just there to hold everything together until you assemble things or does it have a purpose? I'm using the barrel adjusters on the downtube which already has threaded bosses welded.
Do you need the outer plastic part, the spring is also a pain in the ass.
Infind down tube barrel adjusters very helpful as you can adjust while riding without stopping
Nice video! After removing my barrel adjuster, I'm unable to screw it back completely into the rear mech. Please let me know what can be done.
06:54 "shortening the distance there".... Where exactly? I spent the last 15 minutes thinking about this mystical screw. I know lefty-loosey tightens the cable, but I just can't get my head around it. For some reason. Anyways: you're the first guy I find to actually take the time to explain HOW it works, rather than how to operate it. Thanks! I think I got it! I think :)
As you turn it counter-clockwise the barrel adjuster pushes the cable outwards, which doesn't shorten the cable, but shortens the space that it occupies. Imagine holding a ruler between the palms of your hands at its two short sides. If you push one palm towards the other the ruler will start to bend as you increase the tension. Same applies to the cable.
@@thehuge0 thank you, makes sense! I finally managed to understand it :)
@@bauke-LV426 no worries :)
Thank you . Been trying to understand this for ages. But the cable runs through the outer cable and adjuster barrel independent so how does it tension the steel cable is the part I couldn’t get my head around 🥴🤡. You have just explained it for me🥲. Now I can sleep easy😂👍
@@Macm73 I'm still stuck ... Any chance for some hints?
How to put back a barrel adjuster if it comes out all the way while removing the slack ? How to make aure the inner wire would have the last adjusted tightness while putting in back ?
I have to replace shifting cable barrel adjusters on my down tube. They are old school late 90s style for Campagnolo cables. Does it matter if the barrel adjusters are not made for campagnolo. I’m assuming barrel adjusters would work with all cables. Am I right? Could I just recycle some adjusters from some unused old bike? Thanks
Thank you, helped a lot :)
Thank you very much! This is exactly what I was looking for. Great explanation.
i guess it's kinda randomly asking but does anyone know a good place to watch new tv shows online?
what about the L and H screws when istalling, do they need to be full screwed all the way or they have to be very loose thats about the taken off? im new and trying to see where should i start with it
Which derailleur are you trying to fit?
You’re a genius
I really appreciate these videos. Can you do one about putting r8000 brakes on.
Thank you!!!
I missed my brake's barrel adjuster, are there replacements available in bike shops?
Amazon is your friend
Hi, I recently broke a frame and swapped everything over to a new frame with internal cables, I didn't fit barrel adjusters and I'm getting chain rub on the front mech, will a barrel adjuster stop this happening? Thanks!
Philip probably won’t help as the limit screws effect how far the derailleur moves left and right, depends where the chain is rubbing could just be alignment issue.
@@FreeToCycle yeah I thought that. The old friction levers were better on the front mech! Thanks anyway.
@@ThePhilvantwo Friction levers use limiting screws too, thats pretty much all you can adjust to stop rubbing, you moved the derailleur to a different bike its not uncommon to have problems with rubbing after a cable change never mind physically moving the derailleur. Fitting a barrel adjuster would be a good idea, but as long as the cable is hand tight you should be good to go.
Whether you're using a double or triple chain ring, don't get too hung up about it not rubbing on every gear, lower limit set on the smallest ring and highest on largest, simply because its bad practice to run the in the lowest rear cog from the largest chain ring, due to tension on the chain, if you can get it so it doesn't great but better not to do it on the road. I talked to many who spent hours tearing their hair out to stop rubbing from a gear ration they're never going to use.
Thanks, that was me who asked
👍
But your name 😁