This must be your first engine build. To hold the flywheel from moving, you had a ton of options facing you. But using a simple wood wedge between the flywheel and case would have been the easiest. And the reason for safety wire through the bolt heads is to keep them from backing off. So you apply the wire to stop that from happening and by using a wire twister pliers, OR using a common pliers to twist the wires as you install the wire(S) at each bolt head. The wire gets installed to STOP each bolt from backing off. So you have to think how to thread each bolt head to prevent backing off. And then twist the safety wire before going to the next bolt head. If you could back off any of the bolts after wiring them, then it is useless. You apply the safety wire so that any effort to back off the bolts actually tightens the wire. That is how it works and is supposed to be installed. The last bolt head you threaded the wire through would actually loosens the wire up if the bolt backs off... JMHO
The rope worked :-D, i thought a rough wedge of wood between the gear and housing might work. But you got it done :-D. Nothing wrong with your mechanical skills, for the people that moan about it.
Shop manual torque settings are for new bolts. There are charts that show used..."strectched" bolts. Anything used should use Blue Loctite and a bit more than new spec torque.
I woulda got a fitting that threads into the spark plug hole and hook up the air compressor hose and hook up the compressed air, maybe 100 psi of air to work against might work:)
You DO realize that the bolt that the hole is not lining up on the other holes needs to have the wire put into the hole the other way. You installed the wire backwards in the last bolt. The way you put it in the hole if the bolt loses it's torque any you will have only three bolts left that are torqued.
Hey bill I am just now thinking you must have a really understanding wife with all of the money that tractor has you have put into that thing my mom would have killed my dad if he bought a tractor that needed that much work
With that type of torque wrench you torque in one move. You do not take it off and start again as it changes the torque value bill.you make the to6move in one steady turn that way it works the best.
Not true at all. As long as you don't go past the click the torque value will not change. Watch this video linked here to a jet engine technician explaining and showing that it doesn't matter how many times you click the torque wrench: th-cam.com/video/7ddwrcBnoy0/w-d-xo.html
![[Part 1] ทารกน้อยถูกทิ้ง👶 หญิงชราเก็บขวดขายเลี้ยงดูเขาจนโต #โลกการละคร](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nPTDvFCExks/mqdefault.jpg)
Put a pry barb between the pressure plate bolts to hold the flywheel
thanks for the info > I forgot which side of the Disc goes to the flywheel !! Now I know ..
Loc-tite is used on the pressure plate bolts on automobiles. I would use them here as well.
This must be your first engine build. To hold the flywheel from moving, you had a ton of options facing you. But using a simple wood wedge between the flywheel and case would have been the easiest. And the reason for safety wire through the bolt heads is to keep them from backing off. So you apply the wire to stop that from happening and by using a wire twister pliers, OR using a common pliers to twist the wires as you install the wire(S) at each bolt head. The wire gets installed to STOP each bolt from backing off. So you have to think how to thread each bolt head to prevent backing off. And then twist the safety wire before going to the next bolt head. If you could back off any of the bolts after wiring them, then it is useless. You apply the safety wire so that any effort to back off the bolts actually tightens the wire. That is how it works and is supposed to be installed. The last bolt head you threaded the wire through would actually loosens the wire up if the bolt backs off... JMHO
The rope worked :-D, i thought a rough wedge of wood between the gear and housing might work.
But you got it done :-D.
Nothing wrong with your mechanical skills, for the people that moan about it.
Shop manual torque settings are for new bolts. There are charts that show used..."strectched" bolts. Anything used should use Blue Loctite and a bit more than new spec torque.
A wood dowel (broom handle) wedges between ring gear and bell housing will work with out damage.
I woulda got a fitting that threads into the spark plug hole and hook up the air compressor hose and hook up the compressed air, maybe 100 psi of air to work against might work:)
ida liked to see pilot bearing replacement
Bill the sherman linkage hole could be threaded and use a square head pipe plug to keep it period correct or find a snap plug .
Put a wrench between a pressure plate bolt and a bell housing bolt
Find a cork to plug the hole. That is what they used to plug bolt holes that were not being used on the old tractors.
how about a plate from a bolt hole on the flywheel to the bell housing?
what you can do is wedge a piece of wood between flywheel and casting !
Hello from just 2 hrs north of you. Don't break your new ring gear
Anti-seize is guaranteed to get all over everything when you use it, lol
For the hole from the sherman look for a welsh plug..
A cereal box is good stuff for gaskets.
You should just use a pry bar and your son have him hold the bar while you torque the bolts down.
How come you are not putting the Sherman back in? Sorry I must have missed that part. Love the Videos!
parts are nearly impossible and if you can there really expensive!
Measure that hole and see if you can find a rubber plug that will fit it.
You DO realize that the bolt that the hole is not lining up on the other holes needs to have the wire put into the hole the other way. You installed the wire backwards in the last bolt. The way you put it in the hole if the bolt loses it's torque any you will have only three bolts left that are torqued.
I dont imagine it will come loose.
A c clamp through the starter hole
I thought twisting the wire between the bolts and going onto the next bolt was the correct way with special pliers'
FREEZE PLUG FOR THE HOLE
Hey bill I am just now thinking you must have a really understanding wife with all of the money that tractor has you have put into that thing my mom would have killed my dad if he bought a tractor that needed that much work
that’s why I live in the shed.
@@billstmaxx 😂
The only torque setting you need to know for old Ford Tractors is the FT Torque (F@@#ing Tight)
You need a lesson on how to use lockwire. You would have done better using locktite, not the wire.
With that type of torque wrench you torque in one move. You do not take it off and start again as it changes the torque value bill.you make the to6move in one steady turn that way it works the best.
Not true at all. As long as you don't go past the click the torque value will not change. Watch this video linked here to a jet engine technician explaining and showing that it doesn't matter how many times you click the torque wrench: th-cam.com/video/7ddwrcBnoy0/w-d-xo.html
Didn't realize you were probably talking about the bar type torque wrench as I hadn't gotten that far in the video yet. My bad.
Yes a cluck type does not do that if set right.but the bar type does change the torque if you move it before you have the torque done.