There's a video with J Mascis where he recommends setting up your loudest sound first, and then thinking about how to subtract from that for lower gain/volume tones.
That’s how I do it. I set my lead tone up first. Usually a Deluxe Reverb almost fully cranked. Then I just roll my guitar volume back till it cleans up. Job done :)
You probably already know this Steve, but the Dream 65 has the bright cap modeled as well. To “remove” it, just bring the boost knob slightly above zero in stock mode (it might work in other modes too, but I’m not sure). Has helped me quite significantly with stacking drives
Since I spend most of my time playing Strats on the bridge pickup, i dial in my sound with the tone knob rolled back to about 6 or 7. This gives me somewhere to go when I switch pickups or guitars. Another trick is to have a separate drive pedal set up with a brighter sound for neck pickup or humbuckers.
Totally agree. Never understood why guitarists don't set up their drive pedals for each guitar. Everyone is stacking and using general settings. Single coils and HBs should be treated differently.
The Orange OR120 had the FAC control which gave you a lot of options on low cut, including going in the other direction, and creating a low growling monster.
Lots of drive pedals do that. I have a Rat, gain at 2 or so and I basically just use it as a treble boost and bass cut. Almost like a cocked wah but not as extreme.
I live in a city where it’s easy to drive around, I would never show up and play somebody else’s amp, but, I did used to go to rehearsal hall in New York that used to rent back lines for David Letterman and places like that, and the amp selection in their rehearsal rooms were all vintage fenders and marshals and boxes, unbelievable collection
gain staging is important both ways - you don't want to disappear, but you also don't want too much of a volume boost that will make sound engineers hate you if you are mic'd or going direct into foh.
There is no such thing as volume boost. That's why there's gain staging and not volume staging. Volume controls are passive devices. Only gain can amplify the signal, and if the people running the mixer knows how to use it, they shouldn't have a problem. Each channel has its own gain and volume control. Unless you have an extreme problem, the mixer can be adjusted to deal with problems like this.
@@052RC I think you misread my comment. I don't mean volume boost as a technical term, I mean it as a result of badly managed gain staging. If you run too much gain at the end of your chain you can end up either with an uncomfortable volume boost that the foh shouldn't HAVE to deal with, or clipping the wrong thing such as a mic or digital input.
Cheers! I've since learned that there are internal dipswitches in the pedal too! it helped me stack the second overdrive to give it a bit more clarity and a less flubby sound.
To be honest.. with a good amp sim, all you need is a good eq, like a 10 band with boost. The amp sim will distort like an overdrive, then distortion when pushed, and fuzz if using like a martial in a warm cab. The boost is real. the eq lets you shape the sound as well like no single overdrive can. Cut all but 1-2 frequencies for some real fuzzy sound :)
Ive thought a lot about gain staging since i built my last amp. I tend to set it just below the edge of break-up, so that if i dig in, i can get a bit of overdrive. If i use a clean boost, I get the amp's natural overdrive sound without a big variation in volume. If I run fuzzes or distortions into the amp, i get them with a little bit of colouration from the amp, but can still be tight. I'm also careful to keep the power amp headroom open. Things don't sound great if the power amp starts breaking up.
Putting the compressor after distortion really increases the noise when you're not playing. I'd say turn off the compressor for the high gain setting. It won't be adding much of anything anyway in that setting, except noise
That's a lot like my rig. Super AT MOD (blues driver) -> tumnus -> zvex channel 2 - > comp -> echo -> Amp or Dream 65. I also run the volume on the dream at about 8 or 9 oclock. Putting the comp after the drives gives you a much more dynamic tone going into the drives while helping to send a consistent volume level to the front of the amp.
It's funny because my little Vox MV50 Clean amp has a VU meter, it's actually rather useful for quickly setting or adjusting the level, especially considering there are 3 wattage settings. You can see where it starts to saturate and then how much a pedal boosts it.
Also the nutube preamp does something organic that no solid state or emulation can really do in my ears, I also suspect there's a compressor hidden in there because it responds like a non-linear power amp.
I have always used my own amp when gigging, a 1973 WEM Dominator MKII, we also used our own PA the majority of the time and so I didn't experience this problem, I cant even imagine using a provided amp, it took me long enough to find my tone with my own amp and pedal board and so I would be lost turning uo to a gig and using a totally different amp.
My biggest gripe with the Dream pedal was it doesn't interact with pedals the way you expect a vintage amp to; as you showcased you have to reduce the volume quite a bit to keep it from clipping which directly affects the tone of the amp sim. Basically, to use dirt - especially aggressive dirt/distortion, you have to handicap the amp sim, and for $400... whats the point?
@@Bloor005don’t believe everything you read, most people complaining about then have no idea how to use it properly. I’ve got a Helix too but it doesn’t come close to the sound of the Dream 65!
@@officialWWM I am going by the official manuals and marketing. They're overpriced, too app-focused and buggy. You dont even get a discount/free version on the plugin either. Its just a money grab imvho. There are far better options out there.
@ I think you missing the point. These things aren’t meant to be all things to all people. They are for players who only want one amp (or maybe 2) and to base their tone around that. You don’t NEED the app. You also don’t need the plugin if you have the pedal! Personally, I’ve been dragging a heavy AC30 around for 30 years and it’s so awesome to not have to risk my vintage amp at a gig anymore. The massive convenience and lack of weight goes without saying. Not to mention the space saving in the car and on the stage! I play it through a Fender Tone Master FR12 and it sounds every bit as good as my vintage Vox. If you want hundreds of options, these pedals aren’t for you but there’s a lot of player who prefer simple!
@@officialWWM you DO need the app if you want to adjust half the settings 🤦♂ Its over £300 for this pedal, fine if you want to spend that, but there are far cheaper options including the TCe options, even a ToneX is £50 cheaper and WAY more options at your fingertips.
Thanks for the question. I'd say the biggest reason is sound. I prefer how this amp sim 'feels' and sounds compared to the Iridium. Actually, I bought another iridium recenlty to have the other amp sounds but when I AB with the Dream it sounds pretty poor comapred to it imo. Not that the iridum is a bad pedal because I've compared that to others and I preferred it to all the cheaper offerings.
@@LetsTalkAboutMathRock thank you for your reply, Steve. Been following your channel for years now and bout your math rock book when it first game out. Big fan.
This is a random thought, but is there a set of guitar pedal knobs you can attach to any pedal to kind of make the knobs super tight so they don't move after you set them nicely? Kind of like a two tier locking mechanism to engage it to freely set it when you want to, and keep it locked otherwise? I ask because I feel like the only other thing to do is to use painters blue tape like Sonic Youth and put them on pedals to indicate clock position for each knob or something to keep your sanity.
hello! There's definitely something for that! I can't remember the name of the brand but their advertisements have popped up in my feed a few times. The look like they lock around the knobs or something like that 👍
They have rubber washers that keep the knob from moving easily and another product called Loknob which are knobs that replace the original knob on the pedal.
The Herculean Deluxe is an amazing drive. It really can do just about anything. It very quickly replaced the multiple drives in my board. Have you looked at Andy Timmons Halo delay? It’s a great delay especially if you’re running in stereo
I really really really want one but I don't want all the pre-sets and stuff because I know I just use it for one sound. Glad I waited because they just release the 'lite' version of it with just the one sound 😁
Very helpful. Also helpful to have a PA cab to listen and edit your amp modeler sounds. I just plugged my Iridium into a mixer -> QSC K10 and the patches were all way too gainy, and too much high end.
People drastically overestimate the amount of amp distortion in their favourite tones. Post compression can make cleaner tones sound aggressive. When I go back to all the classics I’m always surprised how clean the tones are compared to stuff made post 1975.
Gain staging can make ore break ya tone. I use a Tonex One with a Dual Overdrive. I’ll gain stage my OD with my Tonex One(amp) in my daw and leave it! Tonex saves my settings but the only thing I “may” have to do a venue is just turn my global volume up or down.
I don't know who Fluff is, but he's right. You can't alter or distort the signal with volume. It has to be gain. The only thing you can do with volume is get power tube distortion. Excess volume won't further distort the signal. However, if you turn the volume high enough, you can get the power tubes to fail. But its completely different than using gain to distort the signal directly.
This thing works great and replaced my amp, I will say it does not sound good as a line out into an interface. You need the plugin version for recording into a computer, or you can mic whatever speaker you connect the Dream 65 to.
I dont think you should set your interface input very low, it will lead to a bad signal/noise ratio as far as I know. Rather use a good chunk of your interface preamp headroom and lower the signal afterwards.
You are almost right. But this isn't an input level. It's amp "volume" which is more like a gain control. As long as you are sending in a guitar level signal then you are good to turn down the amp volume.
@@Les537 Thanks for the reply! Maybe I misunderstood, what he meant. I just watched a video by "Ghost note Audio" on how to setup your interface for minimum signal to noise ratio. There he shows, that you should use the headroom of your preamp in the interface and not go into the interface with a very low signal. I thought that would mean you need to use your interface input "gain" to a certain extend, but maybe you are correct and you just come into it with a line or instrument level signal that is using the range and doesnt clip and thats enough. Im not sure if the gain on the audio interface input has an effect on the usage of the preamp, seems like you have more knowledge than me there.
Steve, idk if you've heard of the Ribbons Lo-Fi tape emulator pedal by Kinotone, but I'd like to hear your thoughts on it❤i've got myself one, and they're awesome imo! Great vid btw‼️
I'm not trying to give you a hard time, or anything, but you have to know what the difference is between gain and volume. In the beginning of the video, you said turning the volume up will increase your gain and volume. That's literally impossible. Gain and volume are completely different. Gain controls are placed on the input of a component and volume controls go on the output. If the volume knob on that pedal in the video increases gain, its not a volume control. When it comes to overdriving or distorting the signal, you have to use gain. I'll use a traditional tube amp for this example because its the easiest to visualize, but the rules apply to everything. When you increase the gain on an amp, at some point the input tubes in the preamp can't handle the signal strength, and start to distort. The higher the gain, the more overdrive/distortion you get. Most, if not all of your distortion is made this way. A volume control is a variable resistor. Its a passive device, and all it can do is act like a gate and attenuate the signal. You can't change, alter, distort, etc... the signal with a volume control. It comes after the input tubes. This is why you can have a high gain, distorted signal, at lower volumes. If you turn the gain down and the volume up, you'll hear something completely different. That said, you can use volume to get more distortion, but its done a different way. Since gain controls are on the input, you can't use gain to distort the power tubes. Power tube distortion is made by turning the volume up to a point where the tubes actually fail. Its no different than turning the volume up on your home or car stereo until it starts to break up. The signal is still clean, its just that the stereo can't play that loud without distortion. This is why so many people have issues with tube amps at lower volume levels. When you go for power tube distortion, you have to play it really loud before the tubes fail. Also, in the video the amp was simulated, not real. You can't get volume distortion with a simulator. Keep in mind, this is a pretty big topic. There's no way to go over all the details in a post like this. I'm just addressing the concept in general. So, if you do some research, you'll get a lot more information in addition to this post.
Would it not make more sense to run the Compressor before anything else? That’s usually how I’ve gone about tone shaping since you want any octave or compression to hit the DI signal from your guitar first (or maybe it’s just me lol)
I run a comp after drives. The logic is this : Your drive pedals have more dynamic range and then the compressor keeps the volume more or less the same going into the amp. Depends what you are going for, but if you want classic tones - dynamic tones - then try the comp AFTER the drives.
Been doing it like that for years, comp after drives. You get more dynamics out of your drives and then the comp after them keeps the volume more or less the same depending on how hard you clamp.
There's a video with J Mascis where he recommends setting up your loudest sound first, and then thinking about how to subtract from that for lower gain/volume tones.
Nice. That's a great way of thinking about it 🙌
That’s how I do it. I set my lead tone up first. Usually a Deluxe Reverb almost fully cranked. Then I just roll my guitar volume back till it cleans up. Job done :)
Damn I never thought of doing that. I’m stealing that one
That's the same principle as EQing audio. Makes complete sense to me.
That riff from “I just got this symphony going” sounded great!
Cheers!
You probably already know this Steve, but the Dream 65 has the bright cap modeled as well. To “remove” it, just bring the boost knob slightly above zero in stock mode (it might work in other modes too, but I’m not sure). Has helped me quite significantly with stacking drives
Thanks for the comment! I was aware but forgot to try that. I'll gave a mess with that, thanks 🙌
Since I spend most of my time playing Strats on the bridge pickup, i dial in my sound with the tone knob rolled back to about 6 or 7. This gives me somewhere to go when I switch pickups or guitars. Another trick is to have a separate drive pedal set up with a brighter sound for neck pickup or humbuckers.
Thanks for sharing! Yeah, this is something I really need for my strat too!
Totally agree. Never understood why guitarists don't set up their drive pedals for each guitar. Everyone is stacking and using general settings. Single coils and HBs should be treated differently.
I’m a Sucker for tone and gear videos, the pedal and amp stuff you’ve done throughout the years have by far been my favorite videos. Love this stuff!
Thanks! I am working on a couple more.
A lot of guitarists would benefit from a low cut on the tone knob imo. It'd cut half the muddiness in an instant
The Orange OR120 had the FAC control which gave you a lot of options on low cut, including going in the other direction, and creating a low growling monster.
@@jamesstonehouse3448 yeah the OR120 is a monster for sure!! Best EQ options I've seen on an amp were the Mesa Rectifiers.
100 percent agree. I have a few G&L guitars with their “Passive Treble and Bass” tone controls. Cutting bass is SO useful.
@@timeconsumer325 I've seen a few custom shop guitars where the tone knob is reversed and you just roll off the lows instead. Usually metal guitars.
Lots of drive pedals do that. I have a Rat, gain at 2 or so and I basically just use it as a treble boost and bass cut. Almost like a cocked wah but not as extreme.
Me: "This guy plays a lot like me." Steve: Busts out the Coheed. Me: "Oh, that explains it."
🙌
I live in a city where it’s easy to drive around, I would never show up and play somebody else’s amp, but, I did used to go to rehearsal hall in New York that used to rent back lines for David Letterman and places like that, and the amp selection in their rehearsal rooms were all vintage fenders and marshals and boxes, unbelievable collection
This was actually insightful. Thanks.
thanks for watching 🙌
gain staging is important both ways - you don't want to disappear, but you also don't want too much of a volume boost that will make sound engineers hate you if you are mic'd or going direct into foh.
There is no such thing as volume boost. That's why there's gain staging and not volume staging. Volume controls are passive devices. Only gain can amplify the signal, and if the people running the mixer knows how to use it, they shouldn't have a problem. Each channel has its own gain and volume control. Unless you have an extreme problem, the mixer can be adjusted to deal with problems like this.
@@052RC I think you misread my comment. I don't mean volume boost as a technical term, I mean it as a result of badly managed gain staging.
If you run too much gain at the end of your chain you can end up either with an uncomfortable volume boost that the foh shouldn't HAVE to deal with, or clipping the wrong thing such as a mic or digital input.
Lovely punchy clean tone using the Mythos and the Compressor , very useful video thanks, I’ve subbed 🤟🏽🎸
Cheers! I've since learned that there are internal dipswitches in the pedal too! it helped me stack the second overdrive to give it a bit more clarity and a less flubby sound.
To be honest.. with a good amp sim, all you need is a good eq, like a 10 band with boost. The amp sim will distort like an overdrive, then distortion when pushed, and fuzz if using like a martial in a warm cab. The boost is real. the eq lets you shape the sound as well like no single overdrive can. Cut all but 1-2 frequencies for some real fuzzy sound :)
I’m really happy with the success your channel has seen. Always great content!
Thank you for your kind words 🙌
I've always wanted to nail the tone from The Crowing without having to use actives. Might just pick up that JHS Overdrive AT afterall!
it's a wild pedal!
Ive thought a lot about gain staging since i built my last amp. I tend to set it just below the edge of break-up, so that if i dig in, i can get a bit of overdrive. If i use a clean boost, I get the amp's natural overdrive sound without a big variation in volume. If I run fuzzes or distortions into the amp, i get them with a little bit of colouration from the amp, but can still be tight. I'm also careful to keep the power amp headroom open. Things don't sound great if the power amp starts breaking up.
What amp did you build?
Bad ass Fall Of Troy tone with a Tele!
Putting the compressor after distortion really increases the noise when you're not playing. I'd say turn off the compressor for the high gain setting. It won't be adding much of anything anyway in that setting, except noise
cheers! That's why Andy Timmons has his after the compressor 🤦♂️
@LetsTalkAboutMathRock Haha, now you need to make a video called "the huge mistake I made with pedal order, are you doing this too?"
That's a lot like my rig. Super AT MOD (blues driver) -> tumnus -> zvex channel 2 - > comp -> echo -> Amp or Dream 65. I also run the volume on the dream at about 8 or 9 oclock.
Putting the comp after the drives gives you a much more dynamic tone going into the drives while helping to send a consistent volume level to the front of the amp.
I always love your distortion tones and playing
@@CactusJaguar cheers 🙌
Love your sound man!
Very nice! Love that Coheed tone and riffs!
Thanks!
It's funny because my little Vox MV50 Clean amp has a VU meter, it's actually rather useful for quickly setting or adjusting the level, especially considering there are 3 wattage settings. You can see where it starts to saturate and then how much a pedal boosts it.
Also the nutube preamp does something organic that no solid state or emulation can really do in my ears, I also suspect there's a compressor hidden in there because it responds like a non-linear power amp.
I have always used my own amp when gigging, a 1973 WEM Dominator MKII, we also used our own PA the majority of the time and so I didn't experience this problem, I cant even imagine using a provided amp, it took me long enough to find my tone with my own amp and pedal board and so I would be lost turning uo to a gig and using a totally different amp.
My biggest gripe with the Dream pedal was it doesn't interact with pedals the way you expect a vintage amp to; as you showcased you have to reduce the volume quite a bit to keep it from clipping which directly affects the tone of the amp sim. Basically, to use dirt - especially aggressive dirt/distortion, you have to handicap the amp sim, and for $400... whats the point?
Everything I read and hear of these UA pedals just makes me shake my head. My Helix is 9 years old and take drive pedals with no problem.
@@Bloor005don’t believe everything you read, most people complaining about then have no idea how to use it properly. I’ve got a Helix too but it doesn’t come close to the sound of the Dream 65!
@@officialWWM I am going by the official manuals and marketing. They're overpriced, too app-focused and buggy. You dont even get a discount/free version on the plugin either. Its just a money grab imvho. There are far better options out there.
@ I think you missing the point. These things aren’t meant to be all things to all people. They are for players who only want one amp (or maybe 2) and to base their tone around that. You don’t NEED the app. You also don’t need the plugin if you have the pedal! Personally, I’ve been dragging a heavy AC30 around for 30 years and it’s so awesome to not have to risk my vintage amp at a gig anymore. The massive convenience and lack of weight goes without saying. Not to mention the space saving in the car and on the stage! I play it through a Fender Tone Master FR12 and it sounds every bit as good as my vintage Vox. If you want hundreds of options, these pedals aren’t for you but there’s a lot of player who prefer simple!
@@officialWWM you DO need the app if you want to adjust half the settings 🤦♂ Its over £300 for this pedal, fine if you want to spend that, but there are far cheaper options including the TCe options, even a ToneX is £50 cheaper and WAY more options at your fingertips.
I’m curious on why you stopped playing the iridium. Do you like the dream more than the amp a setting on the iridium?
Thanks for the question. I'd say the biggest reason is sound. I prefer how this amp sim 'feels' and sounds compared to the Iridium. Actually, I bought another iridium recenlty to have the other amp sounds but when I AB with the Dream it sounds pretty poor comapred to it imo. Not that the iridum is a bad pedal because I've compared that to others and I preferred it to all the cheaper offerings.
@@LetsTalkAboutMathRock thank you for your reply, Steve. Been following your channel for years now and bout your math rock book when it first game out. Big fan.
This is a random thought, but is there a set of guitar pedal knobs you can attach to any pedal to kind of make the knobs super tight so they don't move after you set them nicely? Kind of like a two tier locking mechanism to engage it to freely set it when you want to, and keep it locked otherwise?
I ask because I feel like the only other thing to do is to use painters blue tape like Sonic Youth and put them on pedals to indicate clock position for each knob or something to keep your sanity.
hello! There's definitely something for that! I can't remember the name of the brand but their advertisements have popped up in my feed a few times. The look like they lock around the knobs or something like that 👍
You use O rings.
They have rubber washers that keep the knob from moving easily and another product called Loknob which are knobs that replace the original knob on the pedal.
The Herculean Deluxe is an amazing drive. It really can do just about anything. It very quickly replaced the multiple drives in my board. Have you looked at Andy Timmons Halo delay? It’s a great delay especially if you’re running in stereo
I really really really want one but I don't want all the pre-sets and stuff because I know I just use it for one sound. Glad I waited because they just release the 'lite' version of it with just the one sound 😁
Very helpful. Also helpful to have a PA cab to listen and edit your amp modeler sounds. I just plugged my Iridium into a mixer -> QSC K10 and the patches were all way too gainy, and too much high end.
Good idea. Should I aim to get a small club PA system in that case?
Riffs and clean tone remind me of the band Counterfit (2002) 🙏🏽
Sounds about right mate Kudos 👍
"...really good distortion as well..." busts out Coheed. Damn, Steve. I could just listen to you play.
You're too kind! Thanks 🥰
Yeah I popped off at that Coheed riff! Totally unexpected and very welcome 😊
@@RoughOutline sounded absolutely sick!
People drastically overestimate the amount of amp distortion in their favourite tones. Post compression can make cleaner tones sound aggressive. When I go back to all the classics I’m always surprised how clean the tones are compared to stuff made post 1975.
Gain staging can make ore break ya tone.
I use a Tonex One with a Dual Overdrive. I’ll gain stage my OD with my Tonex One(amp) in my daw and leave it! Tonex saves my settings but the only thing I “may” have to do a venue is just turn my global volume up or down.
LOVED YOUR SOUND THANK U MASTER
1:50 I'm confused, Fluff has taught me that this is the clean sound
😂 yeah, just depends on what type of sounds you're going for and the gear that'll get you there
Fluff sucks
I immediately had the same thought and ran here.
I don't know who Fluff is, but he's right. You can't alter or distort the signal with volume. It has to be gain. The only thing you can do with volume is get power tube distortion. Excess volume won't further distort the signal. However, if you turn the volume high enough, you can get the power tubes to fail. But its completely different than using gain to distort the signal directly.
This thing works great and replaced my amp, I will say it does not sound good as a line out into an interface. You need the plugin version for recording into a computer, or you can mic whatever speaker you connect the Dream 65 to.
I dont think you should set your interface input very low, it will lead to a bad signal/noise ratio as far as I know.
Rather use a good chunk of your interface preamp headroom and lower the signal afterwards.
I'll have a play 👍
@@LetsTalkAboutMathRock your sound is awesome though. So maybe "never change a running system" xP
This isn’t true though
You are almost right. But this isn't an input level. It's amp "volume" which is more like a gain control. As long as you are sending in a guitar level signal then you are good to turn down the amp volume.
@@Les537 Thanks for the reply! Maybe I misunderstood, what he meant. I just watched a video by "Ghost note Audio" on how to setup your interface for minimum signal to noise ratio.
There he shows, that you should use the headroom of your preamp in the interface and not go into the interface with a very low signal.
I thought that would mean you need to use your interface input "gain" to a certain extend, but maybe you are correct and you just come into it with a line or instrument level signal that is using the range and doesnt clip and thats enough.
Im not sure if the gain on the audio interface input has an effect on the usage of the preamp, seems like you have more knowledge than me there.
What’s the doohickey you have attached to the bottom of your tele? I’d love something like that to bring the guitar up a bit when playing seated!
@@xdoctorblindx it's a perfomaxe! Can't play guitar without one now 😂
@@LetsTalkAboutMathRock I wouldn't be seen dead with something like that on my guitar. LOL
Solid advice!
Cheers!
What’s the song at 7:20? I learned the riff but I gotta know the name lol
What’s the song at 7:20??
What is the cradle/rest thing you are using?
Steve, idk if you've heard of the Ribbons Lo-Fi tape emulator pedal by Kinotone, but I'd like to hear your thoughts on it❤i've got myself one, and they're awesome imo! Great vid btw‼️
I like my Behringer tuner thanks
What gauge strings are you using? The action seems really low
10s, and yeah, it's fairly low, about 1.5mm from the 12th fret
I'm not trying to give you a hard time, or anything, but you have to know what the difference is between gain and volume. In the beginning of the video, you said turning the volume up will increase your gain and volume. That's literally impossible. Gain and volume are completely different. Gain controls are placed on the input of a component and volume controls go on the output. If the volume knob on that pedal in the video increases gain, its not a volume control.
When it comes to overdriving or distorting the signal, you have to use gain. I'll use a traditional tube amp for this example because its the easiest to visualize, but the rules apply to everything. When you increase the gain on an amp, at some point the input tubes in the preamp can't handle the signal strength, and start to distort. The higher the gain, the more overdrive/distortion you get. Most, if not all of your distortion is made this way.
A volume control is a variable resistor. Its a passive device, and all it can do is act like a gate and attenuate the signal. You can't change, alter, distort, etc... the signal with a volume control. It comes after the input tubes. This is why you can have a high gain, distorted signal, at lower volumes. If you turn the gain down and the volume up, you'll hear something completely different. That said, you can use volume to get more distortion, but its done a different way. Since gain controls are on the input, you can't use gain to distort the power tubes. Power tube distortion is made by turning the volume up to a point where the tubes actually fail. Its no different than turning the volume up on your home or car stereo until it starts to break up. The signal is still clean, its just that the stereo can't play that loud without distortion. This is why so many people have issues with tube amps at lower volume levels. When you go for power tube distortion, you have to play it really loud before the tubes fail. Also, in the video the amp was simulated, not real. You can't get volume distortion with a simulator.
Keep in mind, this is a pretty big topic. There's no way to go over all the details in a post like this. I'm just addressing the concept in general. So, if you do some research, you'll get a lot more information in addition to this post.
Looks like you have room for a Metal Zone.
😂
Would it not make more sense to run the Compressor before anything else? That’s usually how I’ve gone about tone shaping since you want any octave or compression to hit the DI signal from your guitar first (or maybe it’s just me lol)
I run a comp after drives. The logic is this : Your drive pedals have more dynamic range and then the compressor keeps the volume more or less the same going into the amp. Depends what you are going for, but if you want classic tones - dynamic tones - then try the comp AFTER the drives.
THE CROWING MENTIONED 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
Just got my ua dream. This video feels targeted LMAO. Subbed. Loving the vibes here man
Perfect timing then 👌 thanks for the sub!
One of the few videos that I've seen the compressor used after the overdrive.
I'm going to have to experiment.
Been doing it like that for years, comp after drives. You get more dynamics out of your drives and then the comp after them keeps the volume more or less the same depending on how hard you clamp.
Compressor after overdrive is a terrible idea…a compressor will amplify the noise floor. Compressor first then drives.
How come you got the morning glory if the nux overdrive is the same circuit?
@@memes_weakly2126 he said he had the morning glory first
What is the compressor?
What’s your pedal order/ chain?
from right to left, tuner - lightgain overdrive - higher gain - distortion - compressor - amp sim - reverb - out into my audio interface. 👍
@ Wow no delay?!?
@craigjackson2697 not atm but I'm getting one soon!
What brought you to South Korea, Steve?
Work mostly^^
What goofy title. 90% of guitar rigs aren’t “wrecked” 😄
TLDW?
Gainstaging/know and use your amp headroom. Decide whether you want pedal or amp distortion and adjust your volumes accordingly.
TL;DW, man just learned what headroom is