Haven't viewed this video since I made it apparently and can't believe it has 7000 views. For those of you looking for help with a surging idle, check for a vacuum leak. This one took me awhile to troubleshoot but I eventually tracked it down to a missing EGR valve gasket. Someone must have taken it off at some point and just put it back on with no gasket. Once I put the new gasket back on, no worries.
not sure if you got it fixed yet but on the right side of the carb there is a headless screw that rest against the out side of the throttle valve that connected to the accelerator cable. this headless screw has a little tiny bolt that is used to hold that screw in its place once you take off the tiny bolt the screw and be tightened or loosened as needed and you put the tiny bolt back on to hold the headless screw in place.
Note: this Metro is an XFI model. Just sayin'. The comment below by ForldeleHands is helpful for diagnostic help. So is the one by anterpants. I'll have to try anterpants' suggestion on my 91' basic Metro. Interior heat just doesn't produce enough heat in Winter. I will try flushing out the carb cooling jackets. Thanks for the tip! I've cleaned out all the other things, replaced the thermostat, checked the water pump, jackets behind the pump. Nothing seemed to increase interior heat up to normal. And the silly temp. sensor works, but weird. It will increase to just past half way to HOT and then the thermostat opens and temp. decreases down to like 1/3 up the heat guage range. Then it slowly climbs back up to half way, then the temp. drops again. It repeats this for about an hour then the temp. gauge settles at half way. But even then, it still fluctuates. WTF? I had a 92' Metro with a high idle. I found the problem was with the idle control valve (ICV) behind the carb. body under that silencer thingy. I carefully backed off the four fingers holding the cap on the valve. The valve itself is a brass device with three curved legs connecting the ring to the center of the valve. Two of those legs were broken. I figured that brass will reconnect if I solder the legs together. So that's what I did. Solved the high idle issue completely. It worked for 5 years until I had to junk the car. I did save the engine, tranny, ECU, and wiring harness. Karl
Here's my thing- if the Geo is 100% working like it should, shouldn't the engine stall if you hold your thumb over a vacuum line? When I do this, instead of stalling, it just brings the idle speed down lower and sounds better. I have no tachometer so I am just going off of sound
batslug, could that be a bad thermostat? I haven't read this thread in some time and just read Anterparts comments. I need to check that out as I have a ping problem and have been suspecting that the computer has trouble knowing when the engine is hot. was going tow test the ect
Change the pcv valve..mine had surge issues put new pcv valve and cleaned egr valve with carb cleaner & scrape all carbon out .. .purs like a kitten now
Haven't viewed this video since I made it apparently and can't believe it has 7000 views. For those of you looking for help with a surging idle, check for a vacuum leak. This one took me awhile to troubleshoot but I eventually tracked it down to a missing EGR valve gasket. Someone must have taken it off at some point and just put it back on with no gasket. Once I put the new gasket back on, no worries.
Thanks
Where does the other end of that hose connect to on to the carberator mine is disconnected and don't see a spot for it...
not sure if you got it fixed yet but on the right side of the carb there is a headless screw that rest against the out side of the throttle valve that connected to the accelerator cable. this headless screw has a little tiny bolt that is used to hold that screw in its place once you take off the tiny bolt the screw and be tightened or loosened as needed and you put the tiny bolt back on to hold the headless screw in place.
Note: this Metro is an XFI model. Just sayin'.
The comment below by ForldeleHands is helpful for diagnostic help. So is the one by anterpants. I'll have to try anterpants' suggestion on my 91' basic Metro. Interior heat just doesn't produce enough heat in Winter. I will try flushing out the carb cooling jackets. Thanks for the tip! I've cleaned out all the other things, replaced the thermostat, checked the water pump, jackets behind the pump. Nothing seemed to increase interior heat up to normal. And the silly temp. sensor works, but weird. It will increase to just past half way to HOT and then the thermostat opens and temp. decreases down to like 1/3 up the heat guage range. Then it slowly climbs back up to half way, then the temp. drops again. It repeats this for about an hour then the temp. gauge settles at half way. But even then, it still fluctuates. WTF?
I had a 92' Metro with a high idle. I found the problem was with the idle control valve (ICV) behind the carb. body under that silencer thingy. I carefully backed off the four fingers holding the cap on the valve. The valve itself is a brass device with three curved legs connecting the ring to the center of the valve. Two of those legs were broken. I figured that brass will reconnect if I solder the legs together. So that's what I did. Solved the high idle issue completely. It worked for 5 years until I had to junk the car. I did save the engine, tranny, ECU, and wiring harness.
Karl
why did you have to junk it
adjust the base idle screw located under the rubber cap drivers side manifold, turn it in for less rpm
65 rpm is spec
Most people are saying this is a band-aid solution. It throws off other things in the ECM when the idle is lowered.
Don't do this. The car is fuel injected, not carb'd
Here's my thing- if the Geo is 100% working like it should, shouldn't the engine stall if you hold your thumb over a vacuum line?
When I do this, instead of stalling, it just brings the idle speed down lower and sounds better. I have no tachometer so I am just going off of sound
batslug, could that be a bad thermostat? I haven't read this thread in some time and just read Anterparts comments. I need to check that out as I have a ping problem and have been suspecting that the computer has trouble knowing when the engine is hot. was going tow test the ect
my rpm is to high for a shop to smog says it runs just over 1000 rpms at idle so they cant test it. know any tips with this problem?
Change the pcv valve..mine had surge issues put new pcv valve and cleaned egr valve with carb cleaner & scrape all carbon out .. .purs like a kitten now
I changed my PCV valve and didnt do any of the other things you mentioned (yet) and still surging idle
650