Chris, make sure you get that counter bore checked and check all your liner heights on your adjacent cylinders. We had engine shatter a liner like that and it was because the liner was moving in the bore and broke itself off the flange. Just a suggestion.
Your knowledge and "git-er-done" attitude is awesome. It's still amazing the the entire liner dropped and didn't destroy the block - a testament to tractors. I LOVE your hoist. And that good looking refer in the background. :)
We had 1 of these in our 2-135, had around 6,000 hrs before we had it rebuilt for cracked rings. I always liked that tractor the best, the power and sound was great. Seemed to hold it's power more steady. Can't wait to see you get it running again, All your tractors look well kept.
Well that’s lousy Chris, I’m sorry that happened to you. I don’t think any of my Olivers have that porcelain part in the intake heater but now you have me wondering if I should pull them out and check. Thanks for taking the time to make that video to show us step-by-step that was really cool
Hi Chris, I've just found your channel and spent my evening watching some of your videos...., enjoying the mini series of the engine removal on the 2-155 (I'd never heard of white tractors before now...hangs head in shame, looking forward to the next instalment). Be good to see a video showing all your tractors and machinery and hearing the history behind them......all the best, a new subscriber from a wee village in the west of Scotland 🏴🏴
We made the tool for the coupling from IT manual instructions and is a pain to get lined up and even worse on the 185's, my brother took a 1/2'' plug and drilled a hole in the center and ran a smooth 1/4'' rod with a point on it, and that worked perfect for lining up the inner coupling once that looked centered removed it and installed the threaded one , it went right in. I will check the preheats in my tractors , had never heard of that, do know lots of the 135's and 155's in my area were overhauled in the 4000 to 5000 hrs most were used as main heavy tillage tractor.
Great explanation/idea on the coupling between the over under and the transmission. I remember when I was in tech school my friend was working on a 135 and had a rough time with that part. Thanks for the great video.
I've seen that same dry sleeve in the pan thing on the older International D236 and D282 engines in the diesel 460's, 560's and 706's. These engines used a light press fit on the liners. The problem was the large variety of bore tolerances. Once in awhile you would come across a bore in which the new sleeve liner would slide in by hand. This combination was a prime suspect for the liner to fracture at the flange line and end up in the pan shortly after the overhaul. Back in the day the old guy I worked for would go the the drugstore for some chemical, mix it with glycerin, and coat the sleeves on these loose holes to prevent the liner from flexing on the power strokes. I no longer remember the name of the chemical, however when I went out on my own I used Loctite sleeve retainer in its place with good success. The discoloration at the top of the cylinder bore at 33:13 could be a smoke ring caused by a fractured liner. For sure I'd secure a bore gauge and micrometer to verify the fit of the new liner in the bore as it now stands. Any clearance between the liner and bore is too much on a dry sleeve engine.
This problem wouldn't be because of the vandalism. I wanted to explain why the pistons and sleeves are so much newer than everything else in the engine.
Hey Chris. Just come back to watch your video as I'm doing some work on our 2-135 and I am looking for tips. Anyway I didn't realize how low of hours your tractor is to have the engine apart twice. Ours is over 11000 hours. At 6000 and some an injector blew a hole in number 3 piston so it got one slieve and piston and rings on the other 5. Reason I took it apart this time is the seal went out on the center shaft and let oil in to the clutch. Take care
Nice work. This ain't your first rodeo, you can tell. You got the right shop for this kind of work also. Doesn't look like any of that trash circulated through the lubrication system, I'm surprised. If that was an automotive engine ever bearing would need to be replaced.
Our shop was built sometime in the late 60's or early 70's by my Dad and uncle. It is a 2 stall tractor shed built off the side of the granary. Prior to this my dad had no where to keep his tractors. It was a huge step up for him till he could afford to build the Morton machine shed we have now which was put up in 1987. The tractor shed was only built to house no cab tractors. It works out nice today to use as a place to store the air compressor and the tools and it faces the south so you can get some warmth from the sun when it is cold out. There is no cement for splitting a tractor in either shed. I am very thankful though that we have what we do.
It all takes time. I definitely like that you guys park your equipment inside most every night. Storage will pay for itself in resale value, let alone lower repair costs.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris I remember the picture you showed in one of your videos about the first buildings that your family started your dealership up in. They had some real humble beginnings as well. I sure at the time you guys put up the shop you have now it was a lot swallow.
Even back in the 90s our Agco rep was telling us we needed to tear down the main dealership building and put up something more modern. We had to build the pole barn with the workshop, the equipment was getting too big to work on in the old building. The upside is I have a lot of storage space today.
Well Chris... You know as well as I do, if the pan is off and the hours are up a little, bearings are cheap insurance... Anymore, it's usually more expensive to buy pistons without the sleeve and rings... You need all three. At 8,500 hours, our IH 5288 (DT466) broke a ring on #6, no clue how or why.. Wore a wide groove in the liner, but it honed out good enough 😁 Changed the piston (bought the kit, it was not only on the dealers shelf, but it was about $30 less than the piston by itself) New rings all around and new bearings... Ya ya... I know.. should have pulled the liners.. naw, no cracks, no leaks, no reason to disturb the seals. That's been a couple thousand hours ago. Thanks for the update Chris!!! I don't remember what my guess was, but I thought about a broken ring and land.. I know what that sounds like 😂🤣 yours was very similar sounding, but not quite... Didn't sound like a rod knocking either.. (lost a rod bearing in the combine, also a DT466..)
@@ThatOliverGuyChris always a good idea!! I've seen guys leave them, only to find out that they were getting ready to go... 1800-2500 hours later, tick tick...Bang!
Good video and good explanation of failure mode - It was a good thing this was a dry sleeve engine or likely it would have pushed the wrist pin and rod through the crankcase skirt. You were smart to shut it down when the noise occurred as a hired man would have driven it further and done more damage.
Been watching your videos for a few months now and I really enjoy them sorry about that engine looks like it could of been worse for sure I think you got lucky.
Hi Chris thanks for the video. I learned a lot! Your lucky to have such a nice shop to work in. I had to tighten the apron chain on our manure spreader yesterday in our nice out door shop. It was 14 above out. It would of been easy if all I had to do was tighten it up with the tighter, but I needed to take out a couple of links. It took me about 2 and a half hours. My fingers were pretty cold when I got done.
A heated shop is right up there with indoor plumbing. One my strongest memories of being cold.... I was very young, we still had beef cattle, and mom and dad were giving shots. Us kids were young enough they didn't want to leave us home alone, and there was no one that could stay with us, so bundle up and to the barn we went. We were so cold, just standing there, waiting for them to get done, even though we were under the barn out of the wind. I think all 3 of us kids were crying. Just thinking about it makes me glad we don't have livestock any more. Now, I'll clean snow off driveways with an open station tractor, just because I can. Go figure.
I really enjoyed watching the whole process from beginning to showing what happened to the engine.you explained everything very well.great video as usual
Repairable. Thought I saw a crack between the valves and I don't know how it didn't mangle the injector. Personally I don't know if I could re-install a new pre-heater. Sure could be a lot worse at a first glance anyway.
well not as bad as it could have been at least and good to see it can be fixed without a lot of machine shop work at least and I will be interested to see how the rest of it goes since I just work with the IH and Cummins Engines. Having a lot of time in tractor pulling we like to use dry sleeves very easy to rebuild but just don't deal with heat like you explained very well
Watched this a few days ago but forgot to comment lol. Boy that sure made a mess. I'm sure you'll get it back up and running in no time. I think I'd be looking on craigslist for a 8.3 Cummins myself haha.
With that constant noise I figured it was going to be a cylinder but I wasn't expecting all that. Least it didn't go worst case and take out the block. It's amazing how good bottom ends look on engines that are maintained 👍
Discovered your channel Chris and subscribed to it, I think it's really good content and I like the kit you got especially your classic MF combine 😃 very interesting video on the engine strip down I'm glad (for you) it's not as bad as it could have been, I look forward to seeing more videos... especially the rebuild. All the best from me (Craig) all the way from Staffordshire (England)
Almost the same engine. The military version ran a higher compression rato, a different injection pump and a few other odds and ends. There have been quite a few of the tractors that have been repowered with old deuce and a half engines.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris you can still get NOS military parts, a lot cheaper than from agco. Maibach Tractor in OH stocks parts for these engines, great to people to deal with. Those Hercules engines tend to crack liners, just plan on putting new sleeves/pistons in every 4500 hrs. the bearings should still be good.
Speaking of engine damage and vandalism, quite a few years back before my time my dad had an old dynahoe backhoe. He had a dirt pit on a road with a man that didn't want him there working. So while my dad was away from the backhoe the man poured shampoo in the oil at least that's what my dad thought it was. The worst part of it was this motor had like 100 hours on it when the guy done that. Lets put it this way that man is lucky cameras weren't common back then or there would of been one looking at that machine. That man would've paid dearly.
It least you have the know how to fix it yourself instead of hoping that a shop does a good job or even knows anything about it. I was wondering if replacing just one sleeve and piston cause a flutter in the engine? Enjoy your channel!!
Hey Chris this is from Rick from New York State not sure where you are located l just happened to catch your video on TH-cam my father in law used to sell Oliver tractors many years ago I happened to see the 88 and 1650 it brought back a lot of memories
Wow I’m bout ready to put a screen in the intake or get rid of the manifold heater on ours! I’d have a hard time stopping for supper until I knew how bad it was lol. Good thing that’s a dry sleeve. Would’ve ruined the engine otherwise. U still get the herc parts through Agco?
I'm getting them from Hercano Propulsion, real good prices and he specializes in Hercules. I'm glad someone commented to check that heater, I wouldn't have given it a thought. I was sure it was a turbo failure.
First time viewer. The first thing that struck me was you were WAY to familiar with this engine. Engines should be like the next door neighbors wife, you know enough to nod and say hi but the rest is a mystery!
Lol, I like that analogy. My family had an Oliver/White farm equipment dealership, so I've done this a few times. I guess in your analogy, I'm a former tractor OB/GYN. 😆
Wow, i did say i felt it wasn't bottom end & more piston slap sound, but never expected you'd be finding crumbs of liner in there. Likewise, can't believe there wasn't major blow by and that miss sounded so minor.
I was kind of right about the symptom and issue then lol, major props to those guys who called the root cause though! That's some serious knowledge right there.
Hmm now you have me wondering, I had a 2-135 back in 2002 that sounded like it broke a rod and it was rattling in the sleeve, maybe the same thing happened to it as yours. We ended up having an auction and selling out, sold it as is so never found out what was wrong.
That happened to my dad 2-135 25 years ago . The thermo start. Ceramic was broke too two pistons had broken rings they cut grooves in cylinder liners ,It just excessive blow by
i once rebuilt an old IH engine that had dry sleeves ..... I had to press them in....... We had nitrous score s block one time and had to have a sleeve installed . Most of our engines are wet sleeve,..... but I worked with a Major Truck company and became very familar with cooling system Maint...... I had a 7.3 Navistar homogenous block engine get a cavitation pin hole because they didn't reccomend adding DCA.......Untill it was too late,.....
Could've been worse. You intend on rebuilding the entire engine since you have it that far or just replace? If rebuild, smart thing, do the entire engine since you're that far into it already. We never took the chance when we had to break engines down figured, cheaper to go ahead since we had things torn apart and open. Each their own on that choice though. Hope you get the old girl back up and running soon. Cheers :)
Hi again. I been working with diesel engines long time. The other two things that can go wrong with this broken sleeve are the bore in block off , I would Mic it for sure and the other is was there enough night to the sleeve when in block. The sleeve could have been going up and down with pisgon
Good evening sir! Just happened to be looking at you tube and came across your channel. I also have a 78 2-155 and was curious as to who makes the best overhaul kits for these motors. I have one I restored the outside of and now it's time to do the motor! I live in Sioux Falls, SD, but actually farm land my grandparents grew up on! So yeah I actually a city transplant and these tractors are what I use all the time! My grandfather was a big time binder guy, but I also have a AC 7060 I just finished restoring, and also a massey with one of the infamous perkins V-8's that will be next after the white. My newest tractor is that AC, which is a 81 so I dont mind the extra expense to put top of the line parts on this motor! More importantly though I actually love that Hercules motor, and just the tractor in general itself, so any information on who makes the best parts for these things would be greatly appreciated! My neighbors all have brand new green equipment and have for years and most of the guys that ran these things back in the day are long gone along with their wisdom! There was a Olivier/white dealer in town close to the farm, but switched to selling New Holland. We do have an agco guy in the same town but I can barely even get an oil filter from him for it! Any leads would be greatly appreciated!
The best prices I found were from Hercano Propulsion. They are in Ohio, and ship daily. As to who makes the best kits, I'm not sure who all is still making them. My pistons and sleeve were new old stock high compression militry that were dated 1992. I had gotten those from a friend. Hercano told me they still can get the high compression, as well as the regular ag pistons, and carry them in stock. My camshaft needed replaced, they had that in stock, as well as lifters, for a little more than half the price of anything I found online. I will definitely be using them for future Hercules parts. They have a website with contact info on it.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris I appreciate it sir!! Its honestly my favorite tractor and I'm looking forward to adding a few more so I'm sure our paths will cross again. Thanks again!
Chris, could you use a cylinder hone to polish the scratches out of the #6 bore, just to be sure of a good contact between the dry sleeve and the bore?
My landlord had a Oliver 2150 with the 478 Engine in it - It came out of the factory at 160 hp rated 130. It would do fine in the fall when it was cool while fall plowing but never made it thru a spring planting season without the engine going down. Come to find out the original engine did not come out of the factory with an engine oil cooler on it. After 3 times the engine going down, the dealer giving him a loaner and fixing the tractor under warranty they put an oil cooler on it (factory update). The forth time it went down again the under warranty they replaced it with a JD 4620 and still have that tractor with over 10,000 hours on the engine and 1 overhaul at about 7,000 hours on it. The 478 engine was just not a good engine.
Great video, thanks for posting! Look forward to the next one. These are neat tractors. I have a 1972 M35a2. They have the same motor just a few diffences. You have probably heard this already. I would think some of the parts are interchangeable. The LTD-465 in my truck has the same pistons and looks to be very similar. It is also know as the hypercycle design. Wonder if they are the same or if there were differences. Injection pump and manifolds are different. Some M800's 5 tons had the LDS-465 with upped hp and different internals. If I ever can get some property I will have to snag up one of these beasts! Any trouble finding parts? Keep up the good work! Cheers
On something like an engine, I like to be able to feel how much effort it is taking to remove things. There can be clues if we take the time to look for them.
I doubt it was the ceramic that caused the sleeve to break. If it would have been the ceramic, you would see signs of parts beating around in more than one cylinder. No way the ceramic could brake and all parts would end up in one cylinder. These engines were just known for the sleeves breaking. In my opinion the sleeve from the factory is just not tight enough in the block. You can push these sleeves out by hand. The top ring of the sleeve is held tight by the head and the bottom is always moving around while it runs which after a while breaks the sleeve. these sleeves are very fragile. you could lay one on the floor and jump on it and break it. They make over size sleeves to fix this problem. The od is just slightly larger than the originals to make it fit tighter in the block. 8n ford tractors had thin sleeves like this that were also loose in the block. they would break around the top and do the exact same thing. I would get all new oversize sleeves and fix them all while you are in there.
I'd agree if the ceramic broke into a bunch of pieces, but it split, with 2 large pieces that make up most of it still captured in the coil of the heater. I'm still cleaning things up and deciding which way to go. Everything else looks to be in excellent condition.
On one of our pulling tractor with the Hercules, we took the sleeves out and ran 4 3/4" pistons right in the block but we had trouble with the block cracking. . On another one we bored the block and installed custom sleeves and still ran the 4 3/4 pistons. There is a place in salem, ohio that will make you custom sleeves. They make them out of centrifugally cast ductile iron. These are very tough and will not break. They do cost about $100.00 each though.
The pistons and sleeves only have 2,000 hours on them and look excellent. I'm planning on just redoing the one hole. It kind of depends on what I can find. I don't want to put in something that weighs up different than the oem ones and throws the balance off.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris That's why I assumed you'd go through it. The types of material that new (even oem) is used today may well ne problematic and not worth the risk. If you don't use the tractor for heavy tillage it might not make a difference. Beautiful tractor. Memories.
Pulling the grain wagons is the hardest work this tractor does these days. I'm glad there are some of these aftermarket parts out there for this old equipment, but quality control seems to be an issue for some of these places. Hopefully I can find a match to what I have in there, but if not, there is all new.
Ohhhhh my!!! Disappointing! Well, my guess was a broken crankshaft. I think broken crank would have been better! That really sucks with only 2k hours on it! Really an odd thing! So, I thought it looked like there were cracks between the valves on #5 and on #6, is that correct? You think any of the liner or porcelain went through the turbo? I have never heard of the porcelain coming apart. That porcelain must have wedged between the cylinder and piston maybe? I have so many questions! If the head is OK, I'd think you'd be fine with 1 liner, new bearings, and recondition the head, maybe a turbo. Will you be totally tearing the block down for a good bath? And then there's the piston cooling jet... Dang. That sucks. Well, thanks for sharing. Good video, lots of good information. Too bad that info had to come from this failure.
All of the valves have that line between them, it's normal. It's very possible pieces went through the turbo, I'll pull it apart for inspection. Your suggestion is exactly what I plan on doing, replacing the one hole. If it weren't for someone here and on facebook suggesting to check the manifold heater, I would have never guessed that. My guess is that it had broke/finished breaking from cold air while it was idling when I was dumping corn, and then when I revved it up heading to the field, the extra air flow picked it up the piece, shot it in there, and like you said wedged it between the liner and piston, breaking the liner. I've been rounding up parts I still have on the shelf today. I have most of the gaskets, some of the bearings, and I even have new valves on the shelf, so I'm going to replace the ones on #6 just to be safe. I'm going to pull the filter/cooler housing off and check it out for contamination. With it being a full flow filter setup, I'd like to think nothing got past the filters. Time will tell.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Yeah, the filter should have saved everything else. Soooo weird! I never, ever would have thought of that. Dad's got several of them heaters for various tractors laying around and I've never noticed if any ever had cracked porcelain or not or no porcelain at all. That's one for the books right there! That little booger better end up on the wall of shame! How disappointing! I remember a friend of mine in high school was working on a 6.2L GM and he sucked a shop rag in the intake and it blew out the exhaust - no apparent damage! I would have thought that porcelain would have just broken up like you said. Very interesting stuff!
Well it definitely is not good but it always could have been worse!! If it was a wet sleeve engine, it could have been really bad if the sleeve broken. Looks like you can save it and will not be a complete over haul job. Are the parts still readliy avaible from agco for these engines or do you have another source for parts? Another good video, cannot wait to see part 2.
I haven't gotten parts from AGCO on one of these in a few years, but I would guess they still have them. There are some other sources as well, but they're all on the expensive side.
Wow didn't expect that ! Certainly could have been worse, not that it's good at all. Did Oliver own the Hercules motors like they did the walkashaws? Very well built everything is heavy! Thanks for sharing Chris
White owned Hercules for some time, but exactly how long, I don't know. Parts are still available, but boy are they pricey! Just looking online, I figure it would be pushing 5 grand in parts alone for a complete overhaul.
Because overall, the Cummins is a better engine, and a person can find a used one for what an overhaul would cost. I personally think many swap because they will do that themselves, which keeps the cost down, but would have a mechanic do the overhaul, which sends the price up. To me, putting a used engine in is inheriting someone else's problems, where an overhaul is starting fresh.
Lol, I kept trimming this video to get it down to what it is. I'm going to go with that element causing the trouble, it's either that or just a sleeve failure. Everything fits for it being that element. A fresh break on that element with pieces missing, revving the engine up would increase airflow and pick up that piece and shoot it into a cylinder. I was doing about 1300 rpm heading through the driveway (empty), got to the field and gave it more throttle (not even full throttle) and BAM! My guess is that piece got crammed between the piston and the liner when it came up to top dead center, but there's no way to know for sure at this point.
I'm not really educated on the insides of engines. Would the machine shop be able to do anything with the head if it had much physical damage, like if a couple pieces got hammered into it?
Not entirely. The PTO/hydraulic shaft is one long shaft that goes from the PTO to the engine flywheel. I've got a video on how to remove that: th-cam.com/video/LB4BLiHo9O8/w-d-xo.html Once that shaft is out, the over/under splits with no special tools or procedures, slide the engine forward until the over/under separates from the rear end. Sounds easy, but they didn't leave much room to do it, especially with the fuel tank in the way. Some people take the cab mounts loose and jack the front of the cab up to get enough room to get the fuel tank out, which makes getting the engine out much easier.
Love the video I use to work on tractors full time I would laugh at people talking about that green paint I say yelp them Oliver’s was a beast and they give me the strangest look I wish we had them 80s back when we manufactured here in USA
You're the second one I've seen with a busted sleeve. I've never seen that happen before, unless a rod came out. That's a very interesting dry sleeve design though. What's the thickness of the sleeve?
I would think it’s like a hot water heater element if you take the ceramic off it’s not going to heat up the only thing is it goes short to ground if it was me I just plug it off because that’s a nice old tractor can you still get parts for Hercules I went out to Google and Google time with Ac‘s production in 1999 so just sitting here watching the news tonight wonder if the cummins 8.3Man you have a good night thank you for responding
Do you every get the hot hyd light on the dash come on when using the pto, for extended several hours. I have this problem with my 2 135 and was wondering if had any suggestions. Rear is hot to the touch so it's not a bad sensor
I've never ran across that problem. Could be the seals in the clutch pack are leaking so bad it's constantly having to pump oil to maintain pressure. The oil would leak into the rear end, so there would be no oil loss. Could be a bad bearing in the pto. If it only gets hot while using the pto, I would start by pulling the unit. Could also be a slipping clutch pack.
I wasn't crying when I saw the inside of that oil pan, just had something in my eye.
That's pretty much where I was at when I pulled the oil plug and heard thunk into the bucket.
Lewis Geyer Aaahhh , that was just a piece of shrapnel in your eye , as we in the business would say.
Chris, make sure you get that counter bore checked and check all your liner heights on your adjacent cylinders. We had engine shatter a liner like that and it was because the liner was moving in the bore and broke itself off the flange. Just a suggestion.
Your knowledge and "git-er-done" attitude is awesome. It's still amazing the the entire liner dropped and didn't destroy the block - a testament to tractors. I LOVE your hoist. And that good looking refer in the background. :)
Glad the engine wasn’t any worse. Looking forward on the next video on it
Sorry about your engine. Great video! I've never heard a better explanation of cylinder bores/ liner type. Thank You!
Know how and experience is a gift when you have to do a job like this. I'd gain a lot of knowledge hanging around you about tractor engines.
We had 1 of these in our 2-135, had around 6,000 hrs before we had it rebuilt for cracked rings. I always liked that tractor the best, the power and sound was great. Seemed to hold it's power more steady. Can't wait to see you get it running again, All your tractors look well kept.
Erixx Haxx cracked rings from ether?
@@daleolson3506 That's very possible.
Well that’s lousy Chris, I’m sorry that happened to you. I don’t think any of my Olivers have that porcelain part in the intake heater but now you have me wondering if I should pull them out and check. Thanks for taking the time to make that video to show us step-by-step that was really cool
Wow!! Unreal that a small piece of ceramic caused all that.
Great video. Thx for the description of different types of bore.
Glad you can repair it. I have same tractor and this spring I'm going to check my heating coil for sure. Great job..👍
I need to screw the one out of my 2050. Don't need it happening to that tractor.
Hi Chris, I've just found your channel and spent my evening watching some of your videos...., enjoying the mini series of the engine removal on the 2-155 (I'd never heard of white tractors before now...hangs head in shame, looking forward to the next instalment). Be good to see a video showing all your tractors and machinery and hearing the history behind them......all the best, a new subscriber from a wee village in the west of Scotland 🏴🏴
We made the tool for the coupling from IT manual instructions and is a pain to get lined up and even worse on the 185's, my brother took a 1/2'' plug and drilled a hole in the center and ran a smooth 1/4'' rod with a point on it, and that worked perfect for lining up the inner coupling once that looked centered removed it and installed the threaded one , it went right in. I will check the preheats in my tractors , had never heard of that, do know lots of the 135's and 155's in my area were overhauled in the 4000 to 5000 hrs most were used as main heavy tillage tractor.
Great explanation/idea on the coupling between the over under and the transmission. I remember when I was in tech school my friend was working on a 135 and had a rough time with that part. Thanks for the great video.
I've seen that same dry sleeve in the pan thing on the older International D236 and D282 engines in the diesel 460's, 560's and 706's. These engines used a light press fit on the liners. The problem was the large variety of bore tolerances. Once in awhile you would come across a bore in which the new sleeve liner would slide in by hand. This combination was a prime suspect for the liner to fracture at the flange line and end up in the pan shortly after the overhaul. Back in the day the old guy I worked for would go the the drugstore for some chemical, mix it with glycerin, and coat the sleeves on these loose holes to prevent the liner from flexing on the power strokes. I no longer remember the name of the chemical, however when I went out on my own I used Loctite sleeve retainer in its place with good success.
The discoloration at the top of the cylinder bore at 33:13 could be a smoke ring caused by a fractured liner. For sure I'd secure a bore gauge and micrometer to verify the fit of the new liner in the bore as it now stands. Any clearance between the liner and bore is too much on a dry sleeve engine.
Thank you for the tips, I'll look into that.
Great video Chris. Sounds like problems are linked back to the vandalism. Looking forward to the next video.
This problem wouldn't be because of the vandalism. I wanted to explain why the pistons and sleeves are so much newer than everything else in the engine.
Hey Chris. Just come back to watch your video as I'm doing some work on our 2-135 and I am looking for tips. Anyway I didn't realize how low of hours your tractor is to have the engine apart twice. Ours is over 11000 hours. At 6000 and some an injector blew a hole in number 3 piston so it got one slieve and piston and rings on the other 5. Reason I took it apart this time is the seal went out on the center shaft and let oil in to the clutch. Take care
Nice work. This ain't your first rodeo, you can tell. You got the right shop for this kind of work also. Doesn't look like any of that trash circulated through the lubrication system, I'm surprised. If that was an automotive engine ever bearing would need to be replaced.
Wow I've never seen a sleeve turn to stained glass pieces great work I'm glad you can save it keep up the awsome knowledge
Glad to see you have it apart. Hope you get it fixed & running soon. Love your signs you got for Christmas.
Our shop was built sometime in the late 60's or early 70's by my Dad and uncle. It is a 2 stall tractor shed built off the side of the granary. Prior to this my dad had no where to keep his tractors. It was a huge step up for him till he could afford to build the Morton machine shed we have now which was put up in 1987. The tractor shed was only built to house no cab tractors. It works out nice today to use as a place to store the air compressor and the tools and it faces the south so you can get some warmth from the sun when it is cold out. There is no cement for splitting a tractor in either shed. I am very thankful though that we have what we do.
It all takes time. I definitely like that you guys park your equipment inside most every night. Storage will pay for itself in resale value, let alone lower repair costs.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris I remember the picture you showed in one of your videos about the first buildings that your family started your dealership up in. They had some real humble beginnings as well. I sure at the time you guys put up the shop you have now it was a lot swallow.
Even back in the 90s our Agco rep was telling us we needed to tear down the main dealership building and put up something more modern. We had to build the pole barn with the workshop, the equipment was getting too big to work on in the old building. The upside is I have a lot of storage space today.
Well Chris... You know as well as I do, if the pan is off and the hours are up a little, bearings are cheap insurance...
Anymore, it's usually more expensive to buy pistons without the sleeve and rings... You need all three.
At 8,500 hours, our IH 5288 (DT466) broke a ring on #6, no clue how or why..
Wore a wide groove in the liner, but it honed out good enough 😁
Changed the piston (bought the kit, it was not only on the dealers shelf, but it was about $30 less than the piston by itself)
New rings all around and new bearings... Ya ya... I know.. should have pulled the liners.. naw, no cracks, no leaks, no reason to disturb the seals. That's been a couple thousand hours ago.
Thanks for the update Chris!!!
I don't remember what my guess was, but I thought about a broken ring and land.. I know what that sounds like 😂🤣 yours was very similar sounding, but not quite...
Didn't sound like a rod knocking either.. (lost a rod bearing in the combine, also a DT466..)
I pulled a couple of mains, and they looked as good as the rods. Still going to get a fresh set in there while I'm at it.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris always a good idea!! I've seen guys leave them, only to find out that they were getting ready to go... 1800-2500 hours later, tick tick...Bang!
@@ThatOliverGuyChris ounce of prevention worth a pound of cure
Good video and good explanation of failure mode - It was a good thing this was a dry sleeve engine or likely it would have pushed the wrist pin and rod through the crankcase skirt. You were smart to shut it down when the noise occurred as a hired man would have driven it further and done more damage.
Great job on how you explain what you do and see
Been watching your videos for a few months now and I really enjoy them sorry about that engine looks like it could of been worse for sure I think you got lucky.
Yeah, I was worried that the block and or head would have been damaged beyond repair.
Hi Chris thanks for the video. I learned a lot! Your lucky to have such a nice shop to work in. I had to tighten the apron chain on our manure spreader yesterday in our nice out door shop. It was 14 above out. It would of been easy if all I had to do was tighten it up with the tighter, but I needed to take out a couple of links. It took me about 2 and a half hours. My fingers were pretty cold when I got done.
A heated shop is right up there with indoor plumbing. One my strongest memories of being cold.... I was very young, we still had beef cattle, and mom and dad were giving shots. Us kids were young enough they didn't want to leave us home alone, and there was no one that could stay with us, so bundle up and to the barn we went. We were so cold, just standing there, waiting for them to get done, even though we were under the barn out of the wind. I think all 3 of us kids were crying. Just thinking about it makes me glad we don't have livestock any more. Now, I'll clean snow off driveways with an open station tractor, just because I can. Go figure.
I really enjoyed watching the whole process from beginning to showing what happened to the engine.you explained everything very well.great video as usual
Repairable. Thought I saw a crack between the valves and I don't know how it didn't mangle the injector. Personally I don't know if I could re-install a new pre-heater. Sure could be a lot worse at a first glance anyway.
Really enjoy your videos. You do a great explanation and it’s great to see how well you take care of those gems
Excellent video, great walkthrough and explanation of what you are doing, wonderful tutorial.
Great skill on show here.
👍👍
That is definitely a lot less worse than what I thought it originally was going to be.
Yeah, I had some visions of pretty bad stuff in there.
That was some serious carnage ..........Thanks for sharing a great video.
Well now that's quite different than what I thought was wrong. Glad it's not something even more serious!
Thanks for the great video and explanations!
well not as bad as it could have been at least and good to see it can be fixed without a lot of machine shop work at least and I will be interested to see how the rest of it goes since I just work with the IH and Cummins Engines. Having a lot of time in tractor pulling we like to use dry sleeves very easy to rebuild but just don't deal with heat like you explained very well
Good luck with your repair.
Watched this a few days ago but forgot to comment lol. Boy that sure made a mess. I'm sure you'll get it back up and running in no time. I think I'd be looking on craigslist for a 8.3 Cummins myself haha.
With that constant noise I figured it was going to be a cylinder but I wasn't expecting all that. Least it didn't go worst case and take out the block. It's amazing how good bottom ends look on engines that are maintained 👍
I was surprised to a difference between the Oliver 2150, and the White 4-155. The couplings are different between the hydrapower and the transmission.
Discovered your channel Chris and subscribed to it, I think it's really good content and I like the kit you got especially your classic MF combine 😃 very interesting video on the engine strip down I'm glad (for you) it's not as bad as it could have been, I look forward to seeing more videos... especially the rebuild.
All the best from me (Craig) all the way from Staffordshire (England)
That Hercules engine reminds me a lot of the Hercules multi-fuel engines used by the military in their deuce and a half / older 5 ton vehicles.
Almost the same engine. The military version ran a higher compression rato, a different injection pump and a few other odds and ends. There have been quite a few of the tractors that have been repowered with old deuce and a half engines.
Pretty much the same engine.
The old deuce and a half was also a multifuel setup you could run it on mo-gas jet fuel pretty much anything that would flow and burn.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris you can still get NOS military parts, a lot cheaper than from agco. Maibach Tractor in OH stocks parts for these engines, great to people to deal with. Those Hercules engines tend to crack liners, just plan on putting new sleeves/pistons in every 4500 hrs. the bearings should still be good.
Speaking of engine damage and vandalism, quite a few years back before my time my dad had an old dynahoe backhoe. He had a dirt pit on a road with a man that didn't want him there working. So while my dad was away from the backhoe the man poured shampoo in the oil at least that's what my dad thought it was. The worst part of it was this motor had like 100 hours on it when the guy done that.
Lets put it this way that man is lucky cameras weren't common back then or there would of been one looking at that machine. That man would've paid dearly.
It least you have the know how to fix it yourself instead of hoping that a shop does a good job or even knows anything about it. I was wondering if replacing just one sleeve and piston cause a flutter in the engine? Enjoy your channel!!
Thanks for the follow through with your issue. Great job.
Not many Whites and Oliver's in Tennessee ,or I would get back into working on them🤑
Good time to swap a 8.3 Cummins into it now
Boring engine:)
do like a Swedish farmer did, Put in a Scania 16.1L V8 in his tractor.... Probably the best sounding tractor in Sweden.
Really good video thanks chris , looking to buy a 155 this spring.
there is a guy in New Prague MN always got white tractors, parts and conversion on craigslist.
well that sucks. at least the block didn't get ventilated!
Hey Chris this is from Rick from New York State not sure where you are located l just happened to catch your video on TH-cam my father in law used to sell Oliver tractors many years ago I happened to see the 88 and 1650 it brought back a lot of memories
I'm in southern Michigan. What was the name of their dealership?
Wow I’m bout ready to put a screen in the intake or get rid of the manifold heater on ours! I’d have a hard time stopping for supper until I knew how bad it was lol. Good thing that’s a dry sleeve. Would’ve ruined the engine otherwise. U still get the herc parts through Agco?
I'm getting them from Hercano Propulsion, real good prices and he specializes in Hercules. I'm glad someone commented to check that heater, I wouldn't have given it a thought. I was sure it was a turbo failure.
First time viewer. The first thing that struck me was you were WAY to familiar with this engine. Engines should be like the next door neighbors wife, you know enough to nod and say hi but the rest is a mystery!
Lol, I like that analogy. My family had an Oliver/White farm equipment dealership, so I've done this a few times. I guess in your analogy, I'm a former tractor OB/GYN. 😆
One of my bigger mechanical ventures as a teeen ager was changing clutch on my dad's
row crop Oliver 70.
Wow, i did say i felt it wasn't bottom end & more piston slap sound, but never expected you'd be finding crumbs of liner in there. Likewise, can't believe there wasn't major blow by and that miss sounded so minor.
I was kind of right about the symptom and issue then lol, major props to those guys who called the root cause though! That's some serious knowledge right there.
Thanks for the up date
You can tell you have worked on a tractor to in your day
Keep up the good work thanks a lot
Hmm now you have me wondering, I had a 2-135 back in 2002 that sounded like it broke a rod and it was rattling in the sleeve, maybe the same thing happened to it as yours. We ended up having an auction and selling out, sold it as is so never found out what was wrong.
That happened to my dad 2-135 25 years ago . The thermo start. Ceramic was broke too two pistons had broken rings they cut grooves in cylinder liners ,It just excessive blow by
piston grabbing a liner common problem on a herc things haven't changed a bit since the 2150 oliver days
Wow. Failed just like an ISX Cummins. Except the rod didn't come through the side of the block... Should be a pretty simple fix really.
Thank you for showing us
Ouch! Lots of broken parts can't be good.
very good video. I did this kind of work for many years before I got old...lol
Chris , you make it look so easy, Great Video...
It's all in the editing. Lol
One reason I have always hated grid manifold heaters , done three of these .
Becky Watt dang,,, there that bad of a design ???
Allis Chalmers used a similar heater as the white, yet I've never seen a bad one
You do good work on your channel Oliver/ White proud of you
Thanks!
i once rebuilt an old IH engine that had dry sleeves ..... I had to press them in....... We had nitrous score s block one time and had to have a sleeve installed . Most of our engines are wet sleeve,..... but I worked with a Major Truck company and became very familar with cooling system Maint...... I had a 7.3 Navistar homogenous block engine get a cavitation pin hole because they didn't reccomend adding DCA.......Untill it was too late,.....
Could've been worse. You intend on rebuilding the entire engine since you have it that far or just replace? If rebuild, smart thing, do the entire engine since you're that far into it already. We never took the chance when we had to break engines down figured, cheaper to go ahead since we had things torn apart and open. Each their own on that choice though. Hope you get the old girl back up and running soon. Cheers :)
Chris, if You not checked yetisould go through the head make sure the turbo did not out on the intake side
Hi again. I been working with diesel engines long time. The other two things that can go wrong with this broken sleeve are the bore in block off , I would Mic it for sure and the other is was there enough night to the sleeve when in block. The sleeve could have been going up and down with pisgon
Thank the good lord the block is not hurt.
Hi again Chris was tryin to figure out how to comment on your video post really like your video
Thank you!
Looks like you lucked out. Thanks again
Hey Chris, was wondering where you got that special cylinder head wrench from.
It might be older than me. I can't say 100%, but we probably got it through Oliver.
Gotcha, I might end up making one.
Do you live in Springport Michigan? I lived in Concord a few years back.
Good evening sir! Just happened to be looking at you tube and came across your channel. I also have a 78 2-155 and was curious as to who makes the best overhaul kits for these motors. I have one I restored the outside of and now it's time to do the motor! I live in Sioux Falls, SD, but actually farm land my grandparents grew up on! So yeah I actually a city transplant and these tractors are what I use all the time! My grandfather was a big time binder guy, but I also have a AC 7060 I just finished restoring, and also a massey with one of the infamous perkins V-8's that will be next after the white. My newest tractor is that AC, which is a 81 so I dont mind the extra expense to put top of the line parts on this motor! More importantly though I actually love that Hercules motor, and just the tractor in general itself, so any information on who makes the best parts for these things would be greatly appreciated! My neighbors all have brand new green equipment and have for years and most of the guys that ran these things back in the day are long gone along with their wisdom! There was a Olivier/white dealer in town close to the farm, but switched to selling New Holland. We do have an agco guy in the same town but I can barely even get an oil filter from him for it! Any leads would be greatly appreciated!
The best prices I found were from Hercano Propulsion. They are in Ohio, and ship daily. As to who makes the best kits, I'm not sure who all is still making them. My pistons and sleeve were new old stock high compression militry that were dated 1992. I had gotten those from a friend. Hercano told me they still can get the high compression, as well as the regular ag pistons, and carry them in stock. My camshaft needed replaced, they had that in stock, as well as lifters, for a little more than half the price of anything I found online. I will definitely be using them for future Hercules parts. They have a website with contact info on it.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris I appreciate it sir!! Its honestly my favorite tractor and I'm looking forward to adding a few more so I'm sure our paths will cross again. Thanks again!
Chris, could you use a cylinder hone to polish the scratches out of the #6 bore, just to be sure of a good contact between the dry sleeve and the bore?
I was thinking the same thing. Good idea.
My landlord had a Oliver 2150 with the 478 Engine in it - It came out of the factory at 160 hp rated 130. It would do fine in the fall when it was cool while fall plowing but never made it thru a spring planting season without the engine going down. Come to find out the original engine did not come out of the factory with an engine oil cooler on it. After 3 times the engine going down, the dealer giving him a loaner and fixing the tractor under warranty they put an oil cooler on it (factory update). The forth time it went down again the under warranty they replaced it with a JD 4620 and still have that tractor with over 10,000 hours on the engine and 1 overhaul at about 7,000 hours on it. The 478 engine was just not a good engine.
Keep in mind John Deere ran a 45 minute hour. So the 10,000 hrs (doubtful) is actually only 7500
Great video and if you don't mind me asking which fuel line did you plumb the fuel cooler in on ?
It goes from the tank, to the pump, to the fuel filters, to the cooler, then to the injection pump.
Thanks Chris, I have been thinking about put one on my Allis Chalmers 200
Great video, thanks for posting! Look forward to the next one. These are neat tractors. I have a 1972 M35a2. They have the same motor just a few diffences. You have probably heard this already. I would think some of the parts are interchangeable. The LTD-465 in my truck has the same pistons and looks to be very similar. It is also know as the hypercycle design. Wonder if they are the same or if there were differences. Injection pump and manifolds are different. Some M800's 5 tons had the LDS-465 with upped hp and different internals. If I ever can get some property I will have to snag up one of these beasts! Any trouble finding parts? Keep up the good work! Cheers
Just saw the update video, Good deal!
His name was Gerald Lehman and his farm and shop was located on rt812 between new Bremen and croghan
Fix an rebuild or cummins swap? Love that u don't use air tools that I was brought up all manually power
On something like an engine, I like to be able to feel how much effort it is taking to remove things. There can be clues if we take the time to look for them.
Chris Losey you an me both Especially on a diesel
I doubt it was the ceramic that caused the sleeve to break. If it would have been the ceramic, you would see signs of parts beating around in more than one cylinder. No way the ceramic could brake and all parts would end up in one cylinder. These engines were just known for the sleeves breaking. In my opinion the sleeve from the factory is just not tight enough in the block. You can push these sleeves out by hand. The top ring of the sleeve is held tight by the head and the bottom is always moving around while it runs which after a while breaks the sleeve. these sleeves are very fragile. you could lay one on the floor and jump on it and break it. They make over size sleeves to fix this problem. The od is just slightly larger than the originals to make it fit tighter in the block. 8n ford tractors had thin sleeves like this that were also loose in the block. they would break around the top and do the exact same thing. I would get all new oversize sleeves and fix them all while you are in there.
I took a 2-155 motor apart that had a sleeve that was cracked about half way around. it was getting ready to do the same thing as yours.
I'd agree if the ceramic broke into a bunch of pieces, but it split, with 2 large pieces that make up most of it still captured in the coil of the heater. I'm still cleaning things up and deciding which way to go. Everything else looks to be in excellent condition.
On one of our pulling tractor with the Hercules, we took the sleeves out and ran 4 3/4" pistons right in the block but we had trouble with the block cracking. . On another one we bored the block and installed custom sleeves and still ran the 4 3/4 pistons. There is a place in salem, ohio that will make you custom sleeves. They make them out of centrifugally cast ductile iron. These are very tough and will not break. They do cost about $100.00 each though.
Well, on the bright side, you'll be going back to the field this spring with a newly rebuilt engine. I assume you'll go through it at this point.
The pistons and sleeves only have 2,000 hours on them and look excellent. I'm planning on just redoing the one hole. It kind of depends on what I can find. I don't want to put in something that weighs up different than the oem ones and throws the balance off.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris That's why I assumed you'd go through it. The types of material that new (even oem) is used today may well ne problematic and not worth the risk. If you don't use the tractor for heavy tillage it might not make a difference. Beautiful tractor. Memories.
Pulling the grain wagons is the hardest work this tractor does these days. I'm glad there are some of these aftermarket parts out there for this old equipment, but quality control seems to be an issue for some of these places. Hopefully I can find a match to what I have in there, but if not, there is all new.
Ohhhhh my!!! Disappointing! Well, my guess was a broken crankshaft. I think broken crank would have been better! That really sucks with only 2k hours on it! Really an odd thing! So, I thought it looked like there were cracks between the valves on #5 and on #6, is that correct? You think any of the liner or porcelain went through the turbo? I have never heard of the porcelain coming apart. That porcelain must have wedged between the cylinder and piston maybe? I have so many questions! If the head is OK, I'd think you'd be fine with 1 liner, new bearings, and recondition the head, maybe a turbo. Will you be totally tearing the block down for a good bath? And then there's the piston cooling jet... Dang. That sucks. Well, thanks for sharing. Good video, lots of good information. Too bad that info had to come from this failure.
All of the valves have that line between them, it's normal. It's very possible pieces went through the turbo, I'll pull it apart for inspection. Your suggestion is exactly what I plan on doing, replacing the one hole. If it weren't for someone here and on facebook suggesting to check the manifold heater, I would have never guessed that. My guess is that it had broke/finished breaking from cold air while it was idling when I was dumping corn, and then when I revved it up heading to the field, the extra air flow picked it up the piece, shot it in there, and like you said wedged it between the liner and piston, breaking the liner.
I've been rounding up parts I still have on the shelf today. I have most of the gaskets, some of the bearings, and I even have new valves on the shelf, so I'm going to replace the ones on #6 just to be safe. I'm going to pull the filter/cooler housing off and check it out for contamination. With it being a full flow filter setup, I'd like to think nothing got past the filters. Time will tell.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Yeah, the filter should have saved everything else. Soooo weird! I never, ever would have thought of that. Dad's got several of them heaters for various tractors laying around and I've never noticed if any ever had cracked porcelain or not or no porcelain at all. That's one for the books right there! That little booger better end up on the wall of shame! How disappointing! I remember a friend of mine in high school was working on a 6.2L GM and he sucked a shop rag in the intake and it blew out the exhaust - no apparent damage! I would have thought that porcelain would have just broken up like you said. Very interesting stuff!
Well it definitely is not good but it always could have been worse!! If it was a wet sleeve engine, it could have been really bad if the sleeve broken. Looks like you can save it and will not be a complete over haul job. Are the parts still readliy avaible from agco for these engines or do you have another source for parts? Another good video, cannot wait to see part 2.
I haven't gotten parts from AGCO on one of these in a few years, but I would guess they still have them. There are some other sources as well, but they're all on the expensive side.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris I wouldn't count too much on Agco. Doesn't seem like they care about anything other than Fendt and Massey
Wow didn't expect that ! Certainly could have been worse, not that it's good at all. Did Oliver own the Hercules motors like they did the walkashaws? Very well built everything is heavy! Thanks for sharing Chris
White owned Hercules for some time, but exactly how long, I don't know. Parts are still available, but boy are they pricey! Just looking online, I figure it would be pushing 5 grand in parts alone for a complete overhaul.
Explains why so many are swapped
Because overall, the Cummins is a better engine, and a person can find a used one for what an overhaul would cost. I personally think many swap because they will do that themselves, which keeps the cost down, but would have a mechanic do the overhaul, which sends the price up. To me, putting a used engine in is inheriting someone else's problems, where an overhaul is starting fresh.
Hi. Your Oliver tractor collection is awesome! Are you going to do another tour of your Oliver collection?
I'm planning on it. I just need to make the time to do it.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Okay sounds good!
Great video. You know your stuff.
Chris your videos are always to short !!! LoL,,, great job,,, so you think it was the preheat elimint that camera apart and caused the damage ??
Lol, I kept trimming this video to get it down to what it is. I'm going to go with that element causing the trouble, it's either that or just a sleeve failure. Everything fits for it being that element. A fresh break on that element with pieces missing, revving the engine up would increase airflow and pick up that piece and shoot it into a cylinder. I was doing about 1300 rpm heading through the driveway (empty), got to the field and gave it more throttle (not even full throttle) and BAM! My guess is that piece got crammed between the piston and the liner when it came up to top dead center, but there's no way to know for sure at this point.
Thats a bummer. Is it getting hard to get parts for the Hercules engines yet ?
Parts are readily available, but spendy. Just looking online, I figure it would be around 5K just for parts for a major overhaul.
Who built the motor for the 2-155? I ask just to understand how hard it’ll be to get the sleeve and piston.
Hercules. Parts are readily available, but can be a bit pricey.
this is a bit off topic but is there a type of thermal paste, like one would use for a CPU to connect a cooling apparatus, for a sleeved motor?
I'm not really educated on the insides of engines. Would the machine shop be able to do anything with the head if it had much physical damage, like if a couple pieces got hammered into it?
There are places that can weld them and then grind a new surface. Usually that is reserved for when you can't find a replacement.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris thank you!
So the 354 with the over under Drive should pull out the same way out of the 2-105?
Not entirely. The PTO/hydraulic shaft is one long shaft that goes from the PTO to the engine flywheel. I've got a video on how to remove that: th-cam.com/video/LB4BLiHo9O8/w-d-xo.html
Once that shaft is out, the over/under splits with no special tools or procedures, slide the engine forward until the over/under separates from the rear end. Sounds easy, but they didn't leave much room to do it, especially with the fuel tank in the way. Some people take the cab mounts loose and jack the front of the cab up to get enough room to get the fuel tank out, which makes getting the engine out much easier.
Good thing you know what you're doing...
I'm hoping so. Time will tell.
Love the video I use to work on tractors full time I would laugh at people talking about that green paint I say yelp them Oliver’s was a beast and they give me the strangest look I wish we had them 80s back when we manufactured here in USA
You're the second one I've seen with a busted sleeve. I've never seen that happen before, unless a rod came out. That's a very interesting dry sleeve design though. What's the thickness of the sleeve?
I'll have to measure, but maybe an 1/8" thick.
That's pretty heavy for a dry liner.
Could be thinner, it's just a guess on my part.
From what I found online, liner thickness should be 3/32".
Yes exactly the bore size is 4.562 and the od is 4.750. so 4.750 - 4.562=.188. .188 / 2 = .094" which is 3/32"
Amazing that head don't look worse
Awesome video!
I would think it’s like a hot water heater element if you take the ceramic off it’s not going to heat up the only thing is it goes short to ground if it was me I just plug it off because that’s a nice old tractor can you still get parts for Hercules I went out to Google and Google time with Ac‘s production in 1999 so just sitting here watching the news tonight wonder if the cummins 8.3Man you have a good night thank you for responding
All the years i had my shop I tried to hire a guy that worked as fast as this guy.
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Do you every get the hot hyd light on the dash come on when using the pto, for extended several hours. I have this problem with my 2 135 and was wondering if had any suggestions. Rear is hot to the touch so it's not a bad sensor
I've never ran across that problem. Could be the seals in the clutch pack are leaking so bad it's constantly having to pump oil to maintain pressure. The oil would leak into the rear end, so there would be no oil loss. Could be a bad bearing in the pto. If it only gets hot while using the pto, I would start by pulling the unit. Could also be a slipping clutch pack.