sorry to be so off topic but does any of you know of a way to get back into an Instagram account? I was stupid lost the login password. I would love any tricks you can offer me!
@Brantley Bode i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and im waiting for the hacking stuff now. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Thanks for video . I’m considering putting the combiner on my system . I have the 1 or 2 or Both battery switch . I guess I can look but wondering what size wires I’ll need ? I have a Cobalt with a 5.0 gxi Volvo penta
Jeff if the vsr is rated for 120 amps that's the max over current protection and wire to carry 120 amps. How would I calculate what size fuse and wire I need? Thanks mike
I am adding an ACR to a basic "factory" set up. I would like to add a solar panel charger and possibly a shore power/ NOCO portable charger later. With an ACR do I just add these directly to a distributor bus where the (+) is connected to one side of the ACR and only one of the batteries or do I use a solar charge controller and wire one panel to each battery directly? same issue I guess for charging from an AC powered battery charger
Always excellent informative videos. I have a question regarding calculating the wire size between the ACR and each battery. My boat engine alternator has only 1 output. It is rated at 55a. If I multiply that by 125% I get 68a. Could I then use a #6 and a 70a fuses to protect it? Or should I match the #2 battery cables? I'm concerned with in rush currents when the ACR cycles. I know it's very fast, however I understand it will cycle frequently until both battery banks even out. TIA
hello Jeff enjoyed the ACR /switch info. my installer installed a blue sea ACR and a blue sea 6007 switch. these wires are not fused. I have start and house batteries connected to post 1 and 2 on the switch from the respective batteries. however these are heavy gauge battery to the posts, difficult to fuse this wires? how do I physically connect blade fuse holder to these wires/ thanks John
Apologies as this is older content now - do you have any advice as to using a ACR with a DC to DC charger? I have 2 lead start/house batteries and 2 lithium phosphate batts for trolling motor/anchor. I would like to be able to trickle charge both banks or select banks when under power. I thought about having the kicker motor charge the lithium bank and the main charging the house/starting. Am better to manage as 2 separate banks and just use the ACR to preserve the house/start side?
Jeff, I have a 24’ sun tracker party barge with a mercury 60hp Bigfoot motor. I am adding a dual battery system (dual Interstate SRM-27 batteries). I purchased a Blue Sea Systems Mini Add-A-Battery Kit - 65A (7649) and a pro charging systems Professional Series - Dual Pro battery charger/maintainer. During the spring/summer/fall I keep by boat in a moorage for easy access and store it in the winter. I wanted to use shore power in the moorage to keep the batteries topped off and when in storage, keep the batteries maintained. The switch does not combine the house and start circuits unless both is selected (4 post). The alternator is connected to the unswitched distribution bus. The ACR is connected to both unswitched (house & start) distribution busses. This, I believe is your recommended configuration. However, does this “mess” with the dual bank charger, having an ACR that parallels the batteries? Would it not be better to have the ACR on the switched busses to remove it from the system when the battery charger is active? Why or why not? Love your channel!
Hi Dennis, love it, speaking the lingo. Good question, but nothing wrong with having a battery combiner and battery charger both connected to the battery bank. Remember when the battery charger is outputting, the output target voltage on the charger is the same for all banks.
@@PacificYachtSystems But doesn't that Pro Series charger (I have the same) try to intelligently charge the batteries if they are different? It probably doesn't matter for storage as it's just maintaining them. But if you're going out and discharging the a deep cycle house battery all day from playing music and whatnot, then putting the charger on and the ACR is combining the batteries isn't that creating unnecessary (and avoidable) wear on the starting battery when it lets them equalize?
Hi Jeff. I notice that Blue Sea offer ACRs with (7610) or without (7611) undervoltage protection, evidently to protect the ACR circuitry from current spikes if the lower bank is less than 9.6V. I guess this means that if I'm at anchor overnight with depleted house batteries, when I restart the motor I need to double check that the house batteries are actually being charged by the alternator, rather than being locked out if I have somehow depleted the house batteries below 9.6V. Is that a significant or practical problem from your perspective? I like the idea of start isolation with 7610 but that undervoltage lockout seems to detract from the main attraction of installing an ACR and letting it do its thing.... Dave from Victoria.
Hey Dave, I have a small skiff that I think translates to your situation. Two lead-acid batteries, one for the engine, the other is the house (trim tabs, gps, powerpole, trolling motor, etc), connected with a 1 and 2 switch, so they are separate circuits that switch on at the same time. They are bridged by an m-ACR (7601) on the battery side, but I am soon going to switch it to the load side. In my case, if I have for example let it sit overnight and the bilge ran and depleted the house battery, it will NOT begin charging again unless I manually combine the batteries at the switch. So yeah in that case it is not totally hands off, but I think that makes sense? Because you're basically jumping your own battery and my understanding is that is not good for either battery at that point, so it makes sense to me that that should be a manual decision. I would only do that if I were unable to plug in my on-board smart charger that could rehabilitate that dead battery and charge it.
@@ericraslich-noaaaffiliate6030 That's what I would do. Wait to see if it charges, and if not, then while the engine is already running pair the two for a few minutes until the house bank gets enough of a surface charge to carry on. It would be more risky to pair before the morning cold start. My alternator won't normally start charging until 45 sec after the engine starts.
@@spelunkerd Oh yeah, I certainly would want to make sure my motor was already running and sending a good charge to the starting battery before I tried to combine them.
Love the clear explanation of ACR. Could please explain why the ACR should not be switched? I have lithium house and lead acid starter batteries. The company that designed my system put the on/off battery switch at lithium battery side. I think this is done to protect the lithium batteries against over-discharge damage. The 'drawback' is that my wind generator only charges the starter battery when I'm away (during which put off the system enable switch and battery switch), because the lithium battery is only loaded by the 1mA Victron battery monitor.
Hi Cornelis, connecting a battery combiner to a switched positive post, might undo the very purpose of the switch by energizing a distribution point even thought the battery switch is off.
I bought this, installed it, and it worked great last summer. Now I'm getting my boat ready, and I have two dead batteries even though this was turned to OFF. My stock switch in my 2008 chaparral 190ssi never did this, so in "off" this still uses power?
Hi, I am using the 1,2, 1+2 battery switch (3 post) and the ACR. When the ACR installed (between + terminals of batteries) will is charge both batteries regardless if I am on 1 or 2 on the switch while motor is running?
I run a bowfishing boat with a Powermax PM3-45 connected to a generator and charging house batteries (2 series 31 deep cycle in parallel.) I run lots of amp draw with cabin lighting, stereos, ets. This is the only way to keep house batteries charged all night. My motor is a Mercury 250 4 stroke. Can I install an IS-ACR even with house and cranking batteries having their own charging source? Also, not sure on fuse size. Any help is appreciated. Learning a ton from your channel. Thanks, Mark
When installing a battery combiner (e.g. ACR) both batteries will effectively be in parallel whenever there is a charging voltage. If you decide to install a battery combiner, make sure that either charging source won't overcharge the other battery connected via the battery combiner. Fusing is sized to match wire size and max amperage of combiner, plus a 25% margin of error.
Jeff, thanks for the video--awesome content for an amateur like me! I know you say to never put the switch before the combiner, but does that include a battery disconnect switch from the engine battery before the combiner (not a switch to select between battery and house)? I simply want to ensure my battery doesn't drain in storage, but also allow both batteries to charge when I'm running the engine. For context, I'm running a 40hp outboard--currently, the engine battery is reserved for the engine and a small switch panel to run a couple of LED lights and a GPS. The second battery is reserved for my trolling motor only. I don't think I can wire my LEDs, GPS, and trolling motor to the same battery because the trolling motor is on a 60A circuit and the fuse block is rated for 50A. Do I wire the LEDs, GPS, and trolling motor to one battery, bypassing the fuse block with the trolling motor directly to the battery (making it a true house battery) and using a isolator instead of a combiner? That would give me a true engine/house setup-right? But, if I do that, I'm not sure I'll be able to run the lights and the trolling motor at the same time (light of night boating, so this is a necessity). I'm referring to your diagrams from your links above. Thanks for all your help. Pat
i have blue sea add a battery kit and running a start battery and a house battery. my question is how to hook up a two bank smart charger? the start battery is a flooded battery and the house is a agm. i want to charge both battery's at the same time and get the benefit of using the smart charger,..........please help.....blue seas said to install the acr to the load side and just use the switch. to tuen off and plug in charger
When sizing a fuse, you want to make sure the fuse can handle the maximun current expected from the load... also make sure the wire can also handle the load. Quite often the fuse at the battery protects not only the load but also the wire from excessive amperage.
I am using a blue sea mini add a battery (switch + ACR). My house battery is a deep cycle 27 and my crank battery is a 24, my question is for an onboard charger do I purchase a single bank charger and hook it up to the house, or buy a two bank and connect it to both of my batteries. I know the alternator will charge both when engine is running, will the single bank charger work the same way from the house battery?
You probably already solved this, but yes it should work the same way. It would top off your house battery and then when it meets the voltage and time criteria for the ACR to combine the batteries, it will parallel them and your charger will be charging both the house and starter battery.
Question, I have a house bank with (2) batteries wired in parallel. I am trying to keep the terminations at the batteries to a maximum of (2) cables. If the +/- terminals going to the unswitched distribution already have (2) cable terminations, is it permissable to wire the ACR +/- to the batterys that have only (1) cable terminated (parallel) connection?? Asking for a friend!!
Hi, thanks for this video. I am interested in changing to this set-up, however together with my alternator I have a victron mppt charging my house bank and shore power charging both banks. Will any of these interfere with the ACR?
Hey Jeff I'm wiring this as well and on some diagrams they have circuit breakers and many they don't. I have a 3 litre merc. and there is a 50 amp breaker on the engine. Is it still necessary to install two breakers between the ACR and each battery? If so what amp would you recommend?
Definitely want to install fuses on either side of the battery combiner (ACR). Sizing the fuses, depends on various factors, max amperage of ACR battery combiner, wiring size to battery combiner.
Was interested in using the ACR for my two starter batteries and then a house bank of batteries (may use 3 batteries) so let’s say I have 5 batteries. How many ACR do I need? And I’m fact in conjunction how many battery switches would I need?
Hi Justin, with 3 battery banks: 2 for engine and 1 for house, you'll need two combiners: one ACR between house and port engine battery and another ACR between house and stbd engine battery.
Hey Jeff, Thanks for the educational video. I Have a question. I have a dual battery set up in our boat and I am using the Bluesea Mini Add a Battery Kit that comes with the M ACR and their battery switch. I have followed the instruction to the T for installing this system. Now what I would like to do is Install a 120V external 2A battery charger/maintainer in our boat so when it's at home in the driveway I can just plug in the charger/maintainer to make sure that the batteries are charged for the next time we take the boat out. Now my question is: How do I stall the external battery charger? Is it as simple as connecting the 120V external 2A battery charger/maintainer to one battery and the M ACR will transfer the power to the second battery when needed? I haven't found any instructional videos on this topic. Stay safe and all the best. Tim...
Good question, assuming your small charger can bring the surface voltage to 13.3 / 13.4 volts to trigger the battery combiner to be in closed and in parallel.
Hey @@PacificYachtSystems, thank you for the response. Just to give you and anyone else an update to my question. The answer is yes it works and it charges both batteries. I just installed my charger and tried it yesterday. Now yes I know it’s a slow charge because of how small the charger is (2Amps) but when the first battery is fully charged the ACR transfer the charge if power to the other battery. Thanks again for getting back to my question as quick as you did. 🤙 Stay safe and all the best.
@@416Expedition Hello. I've got your setup and I just connect the charger (when necessary) to one battery and they combine via the ACR and both charge. The ACR is a really great way to go - I like it!
Hi Jeff, thank you for your informative videos. I recently purchased two Harris 80AH marine batteries, a Blue Sea 5511e battery switch an ACR. I would like to use my new on board Noco Genius 10x3 charging system. How would I wire it? Thanks Mike Reit
Hi, jeff...LOve your seminars. I have twin crusader engines. Port charges 2 start-up Lead Acid 12 volt batteries and STBD charges the 2 AGM 12 volt house batteries. Is the ACR useful for me and if so, In what configuration? Jean-Francois
Yep, a battery combiner like the Bluesea ACR would allow each battery bank to help recharge the other battery bank, whenever we have a charging voltage on either battery bank.
You said that both sides of the wire need to be fused, did you mean both sides of the ACR? Should they be 120A fuses? I installed the add a battery kit on my sons boat a few years back with the 4 pole switch, which is nice because there's only two positions on which is engine to engine battery only and house loads to house battery only but both will charge when there's enough voltage and the other position is combined just in case the engine battery doesn't have enough power to start. I'm trying to remember if I fused it properly but it's in storage until spring but if I need to go back I think terminal fuses on the battery would be the best option to retrofit. Thanks for covering all these little but important questions!
Hi Charlie, both battery connections of the battery combiners need to be fused, see schematic:www.pysystems.ca/site/assets/files/2531/pys_battery_combiner.pdf
@@chachi5975 Charlie Nobel was a cook aboard a ship that hated the smoke blowing back in the galley, so he designed that stove pipe and its named after him. Did you know that dude?
@@thedudeabides1953 I heard that he was the captain and when he found out that it was made of copper he wanted it polished and then they started calling it the Charlie Noble. Either way it was before my time and the only people that know about it are sailors and they get a kick out of running into someone that is actually named that. I was named after my uncle and he is a sailor! He got a fair amount of ribbing when he was in the Navy!
Hello You said both sides of the battery have to be fused. I am way to literal I know but it’s important when dealing with electrical I understand what you are saying. Are you saying both battery to ACR positive leads need to be fused ? Not both sides of the battery Positive and Negative need to be fused. I am not picking on your video. I just want to make sure. Fantastic video and web site by the way. Just wonderful information. Thank you in advance for the clarification.
Hi Collene, good on you to ask for clarification, both sides of the battery combiner (ACR) need to be fused. Since the ACR can send current in both directions, it's important to fuse both positive links connecting to the ACR. Also, make sure you fuse the ACR at each battery connection.
I know this Ask PYS was about wiring, but the biggest problem, it seems to me, with an ACR is someone who doesn’t quite know what they are doing using one to put dissimilar batteries in parallel. For example, wet-cell lead-acid starting batteries with AGM or (heavens forbid) LFP house batteries. As you have covered, these different battery chemistries have very different charging characteristics.
Jeff, does the ACR draw current for operation when no charge is present? My boat is on a mooring for the season, and it’s possible that it might sit for, say, two weeks. Would the ACR be drawing from either battery during this time. Also, does it matter which terminal on the ACR gets connected to the engine battery (with alternator) and house battery? Thanks for all of the great info you provide!
I'd advocate removing the combiner altogether because they fail often, they're prone to unfavourable positions due to user oversight and the biggest problem is that in order to be accessible as an interface it breaches the cardinal rule of keep the charge cables short. The best place for an AVR is in a direct path between the alternator and house battery with the engine battery Y'd from the alternator side. Apologies Jeff, I have to disagree, I deem those switches as inappropriate for fitment. You said it yourself you advised a client to replace theirs after destroying three alternators...this is not the action I would take.
Automate it. Use a contactor and a microprocessor. If you need manual control use a switch on the relay coil. The amount of times I see €100s of cable for the sake of a switch to make a system perform worse (because long cables) and be unreliable (because human interaction) is pretty crazy.
@@scruff7559 I'm not sure I follow? A dc-dc charger is intelligent and has both isolation functionality to engage and disengage house battery charging when a charging voltage is detected as well as intelligent battery profiles for various types of battery chemistries, is this what you mean by a 'contactor and a microprocessor'?
I know what a DC-DC charger is. They're usually very small. I can get 100A split charge across a suitable AVR like a Smartbank. There's nothing wrong with AVRs if they meet specification...big if... they are usually better than DC boost regulators. What I'm saying is the manual 1-2-All-None battery switches are a poor fitment choice.
Certainly recommend it, as battery combiners cannot limit the amount of current going through the battery combiner, and sometimes when the batteries are quite uneven, you might get way more current then your wiring and battery combiner can handle, the fuse is there to protect your wiring and battery combiner.
Thanks for posting wiring Diagrams Jeff . :)
You bet
sorry to be so off topic but does any of you know of a way to get back into an Instagram account?
I was stupid lost the login password. I would love any tricks you can offer me!
@Issac Briar Instablaster ;)
@Brantley Bode i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and im waiting for the hacking stuff now.
Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
HI JEFF, You have the best videos. After I install the ACR unswitched. What should the (1, 2, both), battery switch be set at?
Same question. I figure you have the answer by now. Can you share please?
Can you do a video on the wiring for smaller Bow rider boats? None of the diagrams you have match my dual battery configuration.
Thanks for the suggestion Jamie.
Very informative. Thanks.
Thanks for video . I’m considering putting the combiner on my system . I have the 1 or 2 or Both battery switch . I guess I can look but wondering what size wires I’ll need ? I have a Cobalt with a 5.0 gxi Volvo penta
Thanks for the sharing with all of us would it be possible to provide a diagram or is there one on your web site?
Jeff if the vsr is rated for 120 amps that's the max over current protection and wire to carry 120 amps. How would I calculate what size fuse and wire I need? Thanks mike
I am adding an ACR to a basic "factory" set up. I would like to add a solar panel charger and possibly a shore power/ NOCO portable charger later. With an ACR do I just add these directly to a distributor bus where the (+) is connected to one side of the ACR and only one of the batteries or do I use a solar charge controller and wire one panel to each battery directly? same issue I guess for charging from an AC powered battery charger
Always excellent informative videos. I have a question regarding calculating the wire size between the ACR and each battery. My boat engine alternator has only 1 output. It is rated at 55a. If I multiply that by 125% I get 68a. Could I then use a #6 and a 70a fuses to protect it? Or should I match the #2 battery cables? I'm concerned with in rush currents when the ACR cycles. I know it's very fast, however I understand it will cycle frequently until both battery banks even out. TIA
Arnold, good question, i'd err on the side of caution and slightly oversize the battery combiner wires... as you mention, i'd go with #2.
@@PacificYachtSystems Jeff, thank you for your response. I did decide to use #2. Thanks again.
hello Jeff
enjoyed the ACR /switch info.
my installer installed a blue sea ACR and a blue sea 6007 switch.
these wires are not fused.
I have start and house batteries connected to post 1 and 2 on the switch from the respective batteries.
however these are heavy gauge battery to the posts, difficult to fuse this wires? how do I physically connect blade fuse holder to these wires/
thanks
John
Your world will be magical… truer words have never been spoken on angry pixies.
lol
Apologies as this is older content now - do you have any advice as to using a ACR with a DC to DC charger? I have 2 lead start/house batteries and 2 lithium phosphate batts for trolling motor/anchor. I would like to be able to trickle charge both banks or select banks when under power. I thought about having the kicker motor charge the lithium bank and the main charging the house/starting. Am better to manage as 2 separate banks and just use the ACR to preserve the house/start side?
Jeff,
I have a 24’ sun tracker party barge with a mercury 60hp Bigfoot motor. I am adding a dual battery system (dual Interstate SRM-27 batteries). I purchased a Blue Sea Systems Mini Add-A-Battery Kit - 65A (7649) and a pro charging systems Professional Series - Dual Pro battery charger/maintainer. During the spring/summer/fall I keep by boat in a moorage for easy access and store it in the winter. I wanted to use shore power in the moorage to keep the batteries topped off and when in storage, keep the batteries maintained. The switch does not combine the house and start circuits unless both is selected (4 post). The alternator is connected to the unswitched distribution bus. The ACR is connected to both unswitched (house & start) distribution busses. This, I believe is your recommended configuration. However, does this “mess” with the dual bank charger, having an ACR that parallels the batteries? Would it not be better to have the ACR on the switched busses to remove it from the system when the battery charger is active? Why or why not? Love your channel!
Hi Dennis, love it, speaking the lingo. Good question, but nothing wrong with having a battery combiner and battery charger both connected to the battery bank. Remember when the battery charger is outputting, the output target voltage on the charger is the same for all banks.
@@PacificYachtSystems But doesn't that Pro Series charger (I have the same) try to intelligently charge the batteries if they are different? It probably doesn't matter for storage as it's just maintaining them. But if you're going out and discharging the a deep cycle house battery all day from playing music and whatnot, then putting the charger on and the ACR is combining the batteries isn't that creating unnecessary (and avoidable) wear on the starting battery when it lets them equalize?
Hi Jeff. I notice that Blue Sea offer ACRs with (7610) or without (7611) undervoltage protection, evidently to protect the ACR circuitry from current spikes if the lower bank is less than 9.6V. I guess this means that if I'm at anchor overnight with depleted house batteries, when I restart the motor I need to double check that the house batteries are actually being charged by the alternator, rather than being locked out if I have somehow depleted the house batteries below 9.6V. Is that a significant or practical problem from your perspective? I like the idea of start isolation with 7610 but that undervoltage lockout seems to detract from the main attraction of installing an ACR and letting it do its thing.... Dave from Victoria.
Hey Dave, I have a small skiff that I think translates to your situation. Two lead-acid batteries, one for the engine, the other is the house (trim tabs, gps, powerpole, trolling motor, etc), connected with a 1 and 2 switch, so they are separate circuits that switch on at the same time. They are bridged by an m-ACR (7601) on the battery side, but I am soon going to switch it to the load side.
In my case, if I have for example let it sit overnight and the bilge ran and depleted the house battery, it will NOT begin charging again unless I manually combine the batteries at the switch. So yeah in that case it is not totally hands off, but I think that makes sense? Because you're basically jumping your own battery and my understanding is that is not good for either battery at that point, so it makes sense to me that that should be a manual decision. I would only do that if I were unable to plug in my on-board smart charger that could rehabilitate that dead battery and charge it.
@@ericraslich-noaaaffiliate6030 That's what I would do. Wait to see if it charges, and if not, then while the engine is already running pair the two for a few minutes until the house bank gets enough of a surface charge to carry on. It would be more risky to pair before the morning cold start. My alternator won't normally start charging until 45 sec after the engine starts.
@@spelunkerd Oh yeah, I certainly would want to make sure my motor was already running and sending a good charge to the starting battery before I tried to combine them.
Love the clear explanation of ACR. Could please explain why the ACR should not be switched? I have lithium house and lead acid starter batteries. The company that designed my system put the on/off battery switch at lithium battery side. I think this is done to protect the lithium batteries against over-discharge damage. The 'drawback' is that my wind generator only charges the starter battery when I'm away (during which put off the system enable switch and battery switch), because the lithium battery is only loaded by the 1mA Victron battery monitor.
Hi Cornelis, connecting a battery combiner to a switched positive post, might undo the very purpose of the switch by energizing a distribution point even thought the battery switch is off.
I bought this, installed it, and it worked great last summer. Now I'm getting my boat ready, and I have two dead batteries even though this was turned to OFF. My stock switch in my 2008 chaparral 190ssi never did this, so in "off" this still uses power?
Hmmm, good question, not sure what the amp draw is, definitely something.
Jeff , does the ACR negative wire need to go to both battery banks
My engine batteries are separate from house batteries
Hi, I am using the 1,2, 1+2 battery switch (3 post) and the ACR. When the ACR installed (between + terminals of batteries) will is charge both batteries regardless if I am on 1 or 2 on the switch while motor is running?
Good question Travis, with the Battery Combiner (ACR) connected directly to each battery, the position of the battery switch is irrelevant.
@@PacificYachtSystems appreciate the sanity check and quick response.
Nice video Jeff 👍
Thanks 👍
Very helpfull. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
I run a bowfishing boat with a Powermax PM3-45 connected to a generator and charging house batteries (2 series 31 deep cycle in parallel.) I run lots of amp draw with cabin lighting, stereos, ets. This is the only way to keep house batteries charged all night. My motor is a Mercury 250 4 stroke. Can I install an IS-ACR even with house and cranking batteries having their own charging source? Also, not sure on fuse size. Any help is appreciated. Learning a ton from your channel. Thanks, Mark
When installing a battery combiner (e.g. ACR) both batteries will effectively be in parallel whenever there is a charging voltage. If you decide to install a battery combiner, make sure that either charging source won't overcharge the other battery connected via the battery combiner. Fusing is sized to match wire size and max amperage of combiner, plus a 25% margin of error.
Jeff, thanks for the video--awesome content for an amateur like me! I know you say to never put the switch before the combiner, but does that include a battery disconnect switch from the engine battery before the combiner (not a switch to select between battery and house)? I simply want to ensure my battery doesn't drain in storage, but also allow both batteries to charge when I'm running the engine.
For context, I'm running a 40hp outboard--currently, the engine battery is reserved for the engine and a small switch panel to run a couple of LED lights and a GPS. The second battery is reserved for my trolling motor only. I don't think I can wire my LEDs, GPS, and trolling motor to the same battery because the trolling motor is on a 60A circuit and the fuse block is rated for 50A. Do I wire the LEDs, GPS, and trolling motor to one battery, bypassing the fuse block with the trolling motor directly to the battery (making it a true house battery) and using a isolator instead of a combiner? That would give me a true engine/house setup-right? But, if I do that, I'm not sure I'll be able to run the lights and the trolling motor at the same time (light of night boating, so this is a necessity). I'm referring to your diagrams from your links above.
Thanks for all your help.
Pat
i have blue sea add a battery kit and running a start battery and a house battery.
my question is how to hook up a two bank smart charger? the start battery is a flooded battery and the house is a agm. i want to charge both battery's at the same time and get the benefit of using the smart charger,..........please help.....blue seas said to install the acr to the load side and just use the switch. to tuen off and plug in charger
This is how I have the m-acr and smart charger set up on my skiff.
Question, what is the method for sizing the fuses @ both ends of the positive terminals connected at the batterys?
When sizing a fuse, you want to make sure the fuse can handle the maximun current expected from the load... also make sure the wire can also handle the load. Quite often the fuse at the battery protects not only the load but also the wire from excessive amperage.
@@PacificYachtSystems In this case the load being the charge curent from the alternator?
@@goranlucian +25%
I am using a blue sea mini add a battery (switch + ACR). My house battery is a deep cycle 27 and my crank battery is a 24, my question is for an onboard charger do I purchase a single bank charger and hook it up to the house, or buy a two bank and connect it to both of my batteries. I know the alternator will charge both when engine is running, will the single bank charger work the same way from the house battery?
You probably already solved this, but yes it should work the same way. It would top off your house battery and then when it meets the voltage and time criteria for the ACR to combine the batteries, it will parallel them and your charger will be charging both the house and starter battery.
Question, I have a house bank with (2) batteries wired in parallel. I am trying to keep the terminations at the batteries to a maximum of (2) cables.
If the +/- terminals going to the unswitched distribution already have (2) cable terminations, is it permissable to wire the ACR +/- to the batterys that have only (1) cable terminated (parallel) connection??
Asking for a friend!!
You can have up to 4 connections on a single post, including a battery post. Make sure your ACR connections are fused at the battery.
Hi, thanks for this video. I am interested in changing to this set-up, however together with my alternator I have a victron mppt charging my house bank and shore power charging both banks. Will any of these interfere with the ACR?
A battery combiner won't interfere with any of those products/solutions.
Hey Jeff I'm wiring this as well and on some diagrams they have circuit breakers and many they don't. I have a 3 litre merc. and there is a 50 amp breaker on the engine. Is it still necessary to install two breakers between the ACR and each battery? If so what amp would you recommend?
Definitely want to install fuses on either side of the battery combiner (ACR). Sizing the fuses, depends on various factors, max amperage of ACR battery combiner, wiring size to battery combiner.
Was interested in using the ACR for my two starter batteries and then a house bank of batteries (may use 3 batteries) so let’s say I have 5 batteries. How many ACR do I need? And I’m fact in conjunction how many battery switches would I need?
Hi Justin, with 3 battery banks: 2 for engine and 1 for house, you'll need two combiners: one ACR between house and port engine battery and another ACR between house and stbd engine battery.
Hey Jeff, Thanks for the educational video. I Have a question. I have a dual battery set up in our boat and I am using the Bluesea Mini Add a Battery Kit that comes with the M ACR and their battery switch. I have followed the instruction to the T for installing this system. Now what I would like to do is Install a 120V external 2A battery charger/maintainer in our boat so when it's at home in the driveway I can just plug in the charger/maintainer to make sure that the batteries are charged for the next time we take the boat out. Now my question is: How do I stall the external battery charger? Is it as simple as connecting the 120V external 2A battery charger/maintainer to one battery and the M ACR will transfer the power to the second battery when needed?
I haven't found any instructional videos on this topic.
Stay safe and all the best.
Tim...
Good question, assuming your small charger can bring the surface voltage to 13.3 / 13.4 volts to trigger the battery combiner to be in closed and in parallel.
Hey @@PacificYachtSystems, thank you for the response. Just to give you and anyone else an update to my question. The answer is yes it works and it charges both batteries. I just installed my charger and tried it yesterday. Now yes I know it’s a slow charge because of how small the charger is (2Amps) but when the first battery is fully charged the ACR transfer the charge if power to the other battery.
Thanks again for getting back to my question as quick as you did. 🤙
Stay safe and all the best.
@@416Expedition Hello. I've got your setup and I just connect the charger (when necessary) to one battery and they combine via the ACR and both charge. The ACR is a really great way to go - I like it!
Thanks @@razorsharpbt124. Ya it’s a great system. Thanks for your comment.
Hi Jeff, thank you for your informative videos.
I recently purchased two Harris 80AH marine batteries, a Blue Sea 5511e battery switch an ACR. I would like to use my new on board Noco Genius 10x3 charging system. How would I wire it?
Thanks
Mike Reit
Hi Mike, check out the PYS courses on Battery Combiners, you'll get lots of good info there.
@@PacificYachtSystems thank you
Hi, jeff...LOve your seminars. I have twin crusader engines. Port charges 2 start-up Lead Acid 12 volt batteries and STBD charges the 2 AGM 12 volt house
batteries. Is the ACR useful for me and if so, In what configuration?
Jean-Francois
Yep, a battery combiner like the Bluesea ACR would allow each battery bank to help recharge the other battery bank, whenever we have a charging voltage on either battery bank.
so if I use acr and fuse breakers do I need the switch?
Battery switches, are not required in a ACR circuit.
You said that both sides of the wire need to be fused, did you mean both sides of the ACR? Should they be 120A fuses? I installed the add a battery kit on my sons boat a few years back with the 4 pole switch, which is nice because there's only two positions on which is engine to engine battery only and house loads to house battery only but both will charge when there's enough voltage and the other position is combined just in case the engine battery doesn't have enough power to start. I'm trying to remember if I fused it properly but it's in storage until spring but if I need to go back I think terminal fuses on the battery would be the best option to retrofit. Thanks for covering all these little but important questions!
Hi Charlie, both battery connections of the battery combiners need to be fused, see schematic:www.pysystems.ca/site/assets/files/2531/pys_battery_combiner.pdf
Hey it's the stove chimney guy!
@@thedudeabides1953 haha yeah it was weird when I googled my name and it went straight to the West Marine parts department 😂
@@chachi5975 Charlie Nobel was a cook aboard a ship that hated the smoke blowing back in the galley, so he designed that stove pipe and its named after him. Did you know that dude?
@@thedudeabides1953 I heard that he was the captain and when he found out that it was made of copper he wanted it polished and then they started calling it the Charlie Noble. Either way it was before my time and the only people that know about it are sailors and they get a kick out of running into someone that is actually named that. I was named after my uncle and he is a sailor! He got a fair amount of ribbing when he was in the Navy!
Hey Jef where is the diagram..?
Here you go: www.pysystems.ca/site/assets/files/2531/pys_battery_combiner.pdf
Is it possible to fuse an acr with resetable breakers?
Yep, i suppose, but some battery combiners are meant to handle 120 and 300 amps, those are large amperages.
Hello You said both sides of the battery have to be fused. I am way to literal I know but it’s important when dealing with electrical I understand what you are saying. Are you saying both battery to ACR positive leads need to be fused ? Not both sides of the battery Positive and Negative need to be fused. I am not picking on your video. I just want to make sure. Fantastic video and web site by the way. Just wonderful information. Thank you in advance for the clarification.
Hi Collene, good on you to ask for clarification, both sides of the battery combiner (ACR) need to be fused. Since the ACR can send current in both directions, it's important to fuse both positive links connecting to the ACR. Also, make sure you fuse the ACR at each battery connection.
@@PacificYachtSystems Thank you for the clarification.
I know this Ask PYS was about wiring, but the biggest problem, it seems to me, with an ACR is someone who doesn’t quite know what they are doing using one to put dissimilar batteries in parallel. For example, wet-cell lead-acid starting batteries with AGM or (heavens forbid) LFP house batteries. As you have covered, these different battery chemistries have very different charging characteristics.
Excellent point Bruce. You shouldn't use battery combiners to parallel (i.e. combine) battery banks that have different chemistries.
Automatic Charging Relay?)
Jeff, does the ACR draw current for operation when no charge is present?
My boat is on a mooring for the season, and it’s possible that it might sit for, say, two weeks.
Would the ACR be drawing from either battery during this time.
Also, does it matter which terminal on the ACR gets connected to the engine battery (with alternator) and house battery?
Thanks for all of the great info you provide!
Good question, yes the ACR battery combiner does draw some power even when the batteries aren't in parallel.
💯
Thanks Javier!
I'd advocate removing the combiner altogether because they fail often, they're prone to unfavourable positions due to user oversight and the biggest problem is that in order to be accessible as an interface it breaches the cardinal rule of keep the charge cables short.
The best place for an AVR is in a direct path between the alternator and house battery with the engine battery Y'd from the alternator side. Apologies Jeff, I have to disagree, I deem those switches as inappropriate for fitment. You said it yourself you advised a client to replace theirs after destroying three alternators...this is not the action I would take.
Hi Liam, thanks for sharing. Nothing wrong with differences in opinion especially when it's well articulated and explained.
What's the alternative, isolated battery switch and a dc-dc charger?
Automate it. Use a contactor and a microprocessor. If you need manual control use a switch on the relay coil. The amount of times I see €100s of cable for the sake of a switch to make a system perform worse (because long cables) and be unreliable (because human interaction) is pretty crazy.
@@scruff7559 I'm not sure I follow? A dc-dc charger is intelligent and has both isolation functionality to engage and disengage house battery charging when a charging voltage is detected as well as intelligent battery profiles for various types of battery chemistries, is this what you mean by a 'contactor and a microprocessor'?
I know what a DC-DC charger is. They're usually very small. I can get 100A split charge across a suitable AVR like a Smartbank.
There's nothing wrong with AVRs if they meet specification...big if... they are usually better than DC boost regulators. What I'm saying is the manual 1-2-All-None battery switches are a poor fitment choice.
OMG get to the point! This video could have been accomplished in 15 seconds
Did a lot of talking, but not a lot of showing.
Appreciate your feedback.
If the cables are 7 inch from switch to ACR do you need to fuse the wire?
Certainly recommend it, as battery combiners cannot limit the amount of current going through the battery combiner, and sometimes when the batteries are quite uneven, you might get way more current then your wiring and battery combiner can handle, the fuse is there to protect your wiring and battery combiner.