Just getting into shooting on regular 8mm and Super 8. I have a Keystone XL300 Super 8 and a Kodak Brownie and a Eumig regular 8 cameras. Got a Gossen Luna-Pro F light meter on it's way to me for regular 8, (thanks to you guys I've learned not to "trust" the exposure guides on the camera itself). Back in the 1950's my grandfather shot quite a bit regular 8 movie film which we recently saved by transferring to digital. As I watch the footage he took, I'm amazed by how visually inspiring it is. How precious are the memories he captured to all of us in the family. Based on that, I wanted to carry on his legacy by capturing the moments of our family as it is today, using movie film. Thank you for all the support and for providing this wonderful forum to help us learn and to inspire us!
"I've learned not to "trust" the exposure guides on the camera itself" - Best news of the day. I wish more folks would take this advise. Happy shooting! - Mike
Great discussion -- especially relating to the vintage ASA/ISO films vs. today's films -- and selenium meters. So far in (too) many vintage cameras of many formats, and some vintage light meters, all with selenium cells, I'd say less than 25% still respond to light, and only a few (so less than 5%) work well enough to use. It's a shame as I have some great "auto" cameras (again, varying formats) from the mid 1960's and back which are unusable because the only exposure is "auto" and it relies on the selenium cells which no longer work properly. *BUT* these old manual 8mm cameras that can be found inexpensively (until the word gets out!) -- like the Kodak Brownie II (some with a 3-lens turret) should work great with the lower ASA/ISO films that you all sell -- I'm gearing up to try some out this summer. Ahh -- the days at the beach with the kids, and silent home movies where you cannot hear Dad yelling, "Johnny! Get that jellyfish out of your mouth right now!" :-) Stay Safe!
I just realized that I forgot to order some double 8 since i have a couple of nice cameras, but definitely next time I order. I thought id never be able to, since Kodak wasn't doing it, so thanks to you guys for making these camera usable. I would love to see an on location shoot where you explain the metering while doing it just to help and then showing the results along the way
@@FilmPhotographyProject Thanks ill check that one out. I was using a light meter app the last time on 35mm still on my Konica Autoreflex TC with OSAWA MC 2.8 135mm, for Kodak Ultramax 400, the only film i found locally recently so i have to send it for developing and so far haven't found anyone for the job. The last i shot stills was in 2001, so i have no idea but i did accidentally for 3 or 4 shots touch the ISO button on app and made it 12000 or something 😂😂 so ruined some but i have to find out the rest. I could send you for developing, its mostly Morning (7 to 8am) sunrise, evening sunlight and a few night. It could totally be a mess since it's first time using a meter, but i set it so it would give me aperture and shutter. But i hate apps because you can easily touch screen and fk up the settings like i did. i have 2 real meters but they don't seem to work, so would be awesome if your website offers the classic vintage Sekoniks
aside from the accidentally touching screen, i love the app for using camera to give me a reading and i could place ND on it to get a reading and then use ND on the lens if that works outside of theory. I did try that for a few shots. But it's a variable so not like 2, 4, 8 stops you guys talked about
Yeah, I was thinking the same thing when I listened to this episode. An ND filter over the lens decreases the light coming into the lens and onto the film, effectively giving you a slower film speed. An ND filter over the light sensor decreases the light hitting the sensor, tricking the meter into seeing less light, giving you larger apertures and effectively giving you a faster film speed.
I’m shooting my first super 8.. I have a sankyo es-25xl..... with Kodak 100d reversal in it.... and on auto exposure it’s going way into the over exposed zone on the meter in the viewfinder.... when outside in the sun...and it stays dead center.. inside.... is dead center where it needs to be?? Should I lock the exposer controller in the dead center??? Which is between 4 and 5.6.... I don’t know ... and I don’t want to screw this up... this film is so expensive... and I want to film my daughter’s graduation... in a few weeks... I bought two more rolls just for that.... anyway.... help... please.. lol
This was great! I'm wondering if you know some site with a good list of 8mm cameras. I've ran into some that are not as common and I'm always curious about them, especially after failing to find ANY data about them online. Brands like DeJur seem to be almost entirely missing from the internet, or I just suck at googling stuff
super8camera.com, super8wiki.com and www.filmkorn.com have great listings of Super 8 cameras and their features. camera-wiki.org has info on some reg 8mm cameras (and other formats).
So if someone bought ISO 40 film for a camera rated at ISO 10 (Weston 8) would the ND4 be a proper filter for said camera to have a proper exposure? Or do you find that the ISO 40 is still alright to use on a camera rated at ISO 10? (Camera in question is a Revere Eight model 88). Thank you!
I recently bought a Bolex H16 non reflex camera. I also bought Cine 16 ISO 50 DPerf from FPP. What tips do you have for me using the film in this camera. I shot Regular 8mm in a Crown 8 model 507 in the 70's.
For the 50 ISO film, shoot in daylight and use a light meter to get the correct f-stop on your lens. You shot in the 70s? Great, it'll all come back to you! - Mike Raso
Oh yeah :) film usually handles a bit of overexposure rather well. Of course, this depends on how much its overexposed. Most films will be just fine with up to three stops overexposure, some you can overexpose up to five stops and still get at least decent results. Depending on how you develop it, you can go even further (although this applies mostly to black and white film, and those developing methods require products that are harder to come by). Film handles overexposure better than underexposure.
Some are...some aren't. I have found that the selenium cell meters work when they heaven't been exposed to light on a shelf for 40+ years. Best to test before investing in film.
Can't wait to see regular 8mm back in the store! Film photographie is such an excitant adventure.
Just getting into shooting on regular 8mm and Super 8. I have a Keystone XL300 Super 8 and a Kodak Brownie and a Eumig regular 8 cameras. Got a Gossen Luna-Pro F light meter on it's way to me for regular 8, (thanks to you guys I've learned not to "trust" the exposure guides on the camera itself). Back in the 1950's my grandfather shot quite a bit regular 8 movie film which we recently saved by transferring to digital. As I watch the footage he took, I'm amazed by how visually inspiring it is. How precious are the memories he captured to all of us in the family. Based on that, I wanted to carry on his legacy by capturing the moments of our family as it is today, using movie film. Thank you for all the support and for providing this wonderful forum to help us learn and to inspire us!
"I've learned not to "trust" the exposure guides on the camera itself" - Best news of the day. I wish more folks would take this advise. Happy shooting! - Mike
Over exposing the negative stock by one stop is an advantage. You can adjust the exposure in post.
Can’t wait to shoot in color film!
Great discussion -- especially relating to the vintage ASA/ISO films vs. today's films -- and selenium meters. So far in (too) many vintage cameras of many formats, and some vintage light meters, all with selenium cells, I'd say less than 25% still respond to light, and only a few (so less than 5%) work well enough to use. It's a shame as I have some great "auto" cameras (again, varying formats) from the mid 1960's and back which are unusable because the only exposure is "auto" and it relies on the selenium cells which no longer work properly. *BUT* these old manual 8mm cameras that can be found inexpensively (until the word gets out!) -- like the Kodak Brownie II (some with a 3-lens turret) should work great with the lower ASA/ISO films that you all sell -- I'm gearing up to try some out this summer. Ahh -- the days at the beach with the kids, and silent home movies where you cannot hear Dad yelling, "Johnny! Get that jellyfish out of your mouth right now!" :-) Stay Safe!
Love the podcasts, keep shooting and discussing regular 8mm !
omg i was never into podcasts but this is amazing
"The Sun Ain't Gonna Shine Anymore" by The Walker Brothers is one of my all time favorite records.
The crab scene at the end is hilarious. Keep it up guys.
Great information here! Thank you!
I just realized that I forgot to order some double 8 since i have a couple of nice cameras, but definitely next time I order. I thought id never be able to, since Kodak wasn't doing it, so thanks to you guys for making these camera usable.
I would love to see an on location shoot where you explain the metering while doing it just to help and then showing the results along the way
I recommend the Gossen Luna Pro F. Video: th-cam.com/video/slO7N-tdm-Q/w-d-xo.html
Using a light meter app on your phone - th-cam.com/video/5wwJJSsHu8w/w-d-xo.html
@@FilmPhotographyProject Thanks ill check that one out. I was using a light meter app the last time on 35mm still on my Konica Autoreflex TC with OSAWA MC 2.8 135mm, for Kodak Ultramax 400, the only film i found locally recently so i have to send it for developing and so far haven't found anyone for the job. The last i shot stills was in 2001, so i have no idea but i did accidentally for 3 or 4 shots touch the ISO button on app and made it 12000 or something 😂😂 so ruined some but i have to find out the rest. I could send you for developing, its mostly Morning (7 to 8am) sunrise, evening sunlight and a few night. It could totally be a mess since it's first time using a meter, but i set it so it would give me aperture and shutter. But i hate apps because you can easily touch screen and fk up the settings like i did. i have 2 real meters but they don't seem to work, so would be awesome if your website offers the classic vintage Sekoniks
aside from the accidentally touching screen, i love the app for using camera to give me a reading and i could place ND on it to get a reading and then use ND on the lens if that works outside of theory. I did try that for a few shots. But it's a variable so not like 2, 4, 8 stops you guys talked about
You always want to put the ND filter on the lens and not the on camera meter otherwise it will overexpose the film more
Yeah, I was thinking the same thing when I listened to this episode. An ND filter over the lens decreases the light coming into the lens and onto the film, effectively giving you a slower film speed. An ND filter over the light sensor decreases the light hitting the sensor, tricking the meter into seeing less light, giving you larger apertures and effectively giving you a faster film speed.
What was used to shoot the clip at 15:35 -15:55?
That clip was shot on the 16mm Keystone Criterion Deluxe camera (on Sonic 25 ortho film).
Great video
I’m shooting my first super 8.. I have a sankyo es-25xl..... with Kodak 100d reversal in it.... and on auto exposure it’s going way into the over exposed zone on the meter in the viewfinder.... when outside in the sun...and it stays dead center.. inside.... is dead center where it needs to be?? Should I lock the exposer controller in the dead center??? Which is between 4 and 5.6.... I don’t know ... and I don’t want to screw this up... this film is so expensive... and I want to film my daughter’s graduation... in a few weeks... I bought two more rolls just for that.... anyway.... help... please.. lol
Do you feel like repairing under-exposed film through digital means is redundant?
Not sure I understand but if someone overexposes their film it can be corrected with a scan.
@@FilmPhotographyProject well depending on it being still photography or movie someone might do editing to it. While others frown upon editing of film
This was great! I'm wondering if you know some site with a good list of 8mm cameras. I've ran into some that are not as common and I'm always curious about them, especially after failing to find ANY data about them online. Brands like DeJur seem to be almost entirely missing from the internet, or I just suck at googling stuff
I always search "8mm Movie Camera" on eBay. That's how I found (and bought) my DeJur and Keystone Capri!
You cannot go wrong with a Ciné-Kodak 8!
super8camera.com, super8wiki.com and www.filmkorn.com have great listings of Super 8 cameras and their features. camera-wiki.org has info on some reg 8mm cameras (and other formats).
50ft 16mm magazine film next, plz
So if someone bought ISO 40 film for a camera rated at ISO 10 (Weston 8) would the ND4 be a proper filter for said camera to have a proper exposure? Or do you find that the ISO 40 is still alright to use on a camera rated at ISO 10? (Camera in question is a Revere Eight model 88). Thank you!
Why not just rate the film at box speed - 40? Why would you want to rate it at 10 iso?
@@FilmPhotographyProject I just wasnt sure if at 40 if an old camera would try to overexpose the 40 or not :)
I recently bought a Bolex H16 non reflex camera. I also bought Cine 16 ISO 50 DPerf from FPP. What tips do you have for me using the film in this camera. I shot Regular 8mm in a Crown 8 model 507 in the 70's.
For the 50 ISO film, shoot in daylight and use a light meter to get the correct f-stop on your lens. You shot in the 70s? Great, it'll all come back to you! - Mike Raso
So Mr. Raso, are you saying that an overexposed B&W film (it's a Fomapan 100) if scanned could be partially saved?
That's a new hope for me!
Oh yeah :) film usually handles a bit of overexposure rather well. Of course, this depends on how much its overexposed. Most films will be just fine with up to three stops overexposure, some you can overexpose up to five stops and still get at least decent results. Depending on how you develop it, you can go even further (although this applies mostly to black and white film, and those developing methods require products that are harder to come by). Film handles overexposure better than underexposure.
Yes. If you like, send me an email with more details - Michael@FilmPhotographyProject.com
@@FilmPhotographyProject thanks
Are these exposure meter cells still good after all these years?
Some are...some aren't. I have found that the selenium cell meters work when they heaven't been exposed to light on a shelf for 40+ years. Best to test before investing in film.
Hi does anyone know if I can get 8mm colour film in the UK ? Thx
Best kept secret! analoguewonderland.co.uk/collections/8mm-movie-film
@@FilmPhotographyProject And in the Netherlands?
So True about the Magic,
16:56 you mean divide?
Can you have Owen wear a bow tie? It looks like that would suit his style.