A young metalworking Yank here, just wanted to leave a comment saying thanks for all these videos. I never had someone around who could teach these skills, so I had a late start.. but I've learned a lot from your content. Seriously, it's much appreciated - Cheers, from California.
Hi Handyman, I really appreciate your willingness to demonstrate your uncertainty on turning the reamer backwards which you've been told is not recommended. A lot of people in metalworking wants to show off as Mr. tough guy who knows everything about it. Your approach to go along with a general recommendation shows a valuable personality trait.
+SE45CX Thanks, I did metal working at school and also did an adult apprenticeship in my late thirties doing fitting, mechanical and electrical maintenance. So as a pretty latecomer to metalworking (apart from school) I find that there are a lot of people out there with a lot more on the job knowledge. People often say that you can blunten a file by dragging it backwards, yet when I was doing my fitting course we used to draw file on a daily basis- which meant using the file sideways. Thanks for the comment ;-)
Great video, and good tutorial on the reamer. However I feel like the 4mm hole may have looked crummy because of how the work piece was tilting down when you were drilling it (causing the drill bit to cut away at the sides).
Bit of advice bud, I want to cut/ream a perfect square groove in the end of a metal bar. A grinder is sloppy, a cutting disc may cut walls of the groove ok but the bottom is messy... would a reamer do this? pushing the reamer sideways into the bar? thanks for your help.
I have a question regarding the 4mm round steel insertion. How is it that it makes it through any hole so easily? In order to easily insert a true 4mm cylinder through a hole, the hole must be either larger than 4mm or the cylinder must be smaller. So, are we to assume that the reamed hole is spot on and the round stock is running a bit on the small side?
Good to know, I might have to invest in a set, I quit often drill out mangled threads and retap them at a larger diameter, so these would be perfect. Great video.
Thanks, if you are re-tapping the hole you would not normally need a reamer though. You can just re-drill the hole to the correct size and then tap it out. Thanks for the comment ;-)
Hi, thanks for the video. I didn't know such thing exist! May I ask you to give an example when it is necessary to have a precise hole? is there any special case or just to have a neat hole? thanks again
You are welcome. You might need a precise hole for example if you had to place a linear bearing into a machine as the diameter of the hole would have to be exact to hold the bearing in position. You also need a precise hole when pinning pieces of metal together using silver pin steel (which is ground to an exact tolerance). I'll be making a video of how to use silver pin steel in the coming weeks ;-)
Mehdi -- One example is when you're injection molding parts and use ejector pins that slide in and out of holes. You want precise hole diameters to prevent binding when the ejector pins move, but you don't want the hole oversized because that can lead to material making its way inside the hole.
Great tip, thanks! I have a couple of questions though: 1) I see you don't use any oil/fluid when drilling. Is it not always better to use oil/fluid to drill in metal? 2) Actually more of an observation: Is the inaccuracy not predominantly caused by the fact that the drill bit can move off center (wobble) - The better the drilling 'rig', the closer it will stay on center, of course. - causing a double cone shape, in stead of it being due to the drill bit not cutting on the sides?
1) yes drilling tapping fluid should be used, although I don't always use it when filming. You can get away with drilling a few small diameter holes before the drill bit starts to heat up. 2) It doesn't matter if the work piece is firmly bolted down and if you are using a large diameter drill bit that cannot flex, you will still not get an accurate hole using a drill bit. Thanks for the comment ;-)
***** Well, there's always some play in a drilling column, isn't there? What I'm wondering about is: does this also occur when something is machined? I.e., is this two-step process also used in machining?
FloppyHares Yes, reamers are widely used in machining when an exact hole needs to be made in metal. You can get reamers with a morse fitting that will then fit into most large pillar drills. Normally a undersized hole would be drilled using a drill bit, then it would be swapped for a reamer and the hole reamed to the correct size using that. I do have a machine reamer somewhere, which I should have sown in the demo, but I could not find it!
so after looking online for a reamer bit , there are so many different types , for metal which exactly would you recommend, what would I ask for ??? And thanks again for the video
+rence822 It depends what you are doing. If you are using it like I did by hand you need to get a hand reamer.Straight shank, parallel flutes.You can get adjustable reamers but I have never used one of those!
Thank you for making this video. But I wonder why you drilled the hole with the work piece out of the vice? The piece deflected under the drill pressure and that isn’t optimal. Just curious. All the best.
Thanks for the video. How can I ream out a .5" diameter hole to 15mm which is .09" bigger than .5"? the material is .75" thick cast iron pulley. Thank you.
@@ultimatehandyman , no harm in trying. I'll buy a small diameter reamer and do a test. Thanks for the prompt reply. Also, thanks for the informative vids.
Never tried this method so thanks for taking time to upload for us, great tip. I haven't searched your channel but wanted to ask you a question while here, what make of drill bits are best to use on ceramic tiles?. I've drilled holes years n years ago using the masking tape effect and working up from a small bit to intended bit/hole size but thought i'd ask you if there's any good ones on market for me tool kits. Thanks.
For ceramic tiles the best bit is probably a spear shaped bit, like you would use on glass- th-cam.com/video/m_KDslB51FM/w-d-xo.html Thanks for the comment
They are Honeywell Millenia safety glasses. Normally I get them from Arco, but the last time I went they did not have them. These are by far the comfiest safety glasses that I have ever worn. Here they are on ebay- fave.co/3okaiLT Thanks for the comment
Can you use a reamer to bore out a golf club hosel (the hole in the golf club where the shaft goes into the head). Need to go from 0.355" to 0.370", maybe can do in two steps 0.2mm at a time? i think golf clubs are 17-4 stainless, not sure about metals. thanks.
Do you run into alignment issues (i.e. coming in at an angle or being off center) when hand reaming? And if so, is it more self-correcting than a taper reamer or do you have to "eye ball" really good to make sure you are 100% perpendicular?
I have never had a problem, but I don't do a huge amount of hand reaming. You could use a self aligning tap wrench though- th-cam.com/video/imHGOC07vo8/w-d-xo.html Or do the reaming in a pillar drill etc. Thanks for the comment ;-)
How do you install the drillbit to the reamer handle? I am just wondering how is the grip and why it doesn't slip away? I used to see this tool before but never know what the use
+Meiji Jap A hand reamer bit has a square on the end, just like a tap so you can use either in a tap wrench as it grips the square on the end once tightened.
Hi, is there a guide as to what size drill bit to use with a reamer. You used a 3.5mm for a 4mm reamer but mentioned a 3.8mm would be more appropriate. Is say 0.5mm less generally ok upto say a 10mm reamer? I have just started building a model steam engine, the plans say ream, but no mention of the prior hole diameter. Many thanks.
+Mikkee33 I think as a general rule of thumb you need to drill the hole 0.2mm smaller than the reamer you are using, so for a 10mm hole you would drill 9.8mm and for a 4mm hole you would drill 3.8mm etc. Thanks for the comment and good luck with the steam engine ;-)
The drill bit needs to be slightly smaller diameter than the reamer. Once reamed the hole will be an exact size. I'm not familiar with Imperial sizes (sorry). I've tried doing a google search from here, but only metric charts seem to be available here! Thanks for the comment 👍
Charts are available for this. Hannibal carbide have one in the 'Documents' section of their website. [At larger sizes, say 1/2" or greater we oldies often use a drill 1/64" less than the reamed size. You cannot do that here.] If you are reaming a 5/32" hole then you need a number drill, a number 24 or a number 25 as given in the chart. If you use a 9/64" drill bit it will leave about 10% of the final diameter to ream out which is too much - also the reamer may not start properly (reamers are very slightly tapered at the start end to make starting easier and straighter - but they won't be tapered 10%!) It is normal to leave about 2~3% of the diameter to be taken out by the reamer The next standard drill up is 5/32" - so that's no good. And the nearest metric size is 3.5mm which is the same size as 9/64". So if you don't have one, go out and buy a number 24 drill and if you are desperate use a 9/64" but go carefully!! UH's comment is absolutely correct - NEVER turn a reamer counter clockwise - even if it is stuck in the hole. You will roll the cutting edges and the reamer will be ruined, and the hole too probably. [Your question is a little ambiguous so I have answered as though you wanted a final size of 5/32" for your hole. Reply here if that is not the case.]
Curious as to whether a straight or spiral reamer makes a difference? I've got an aluminum engine block (halves actually) that I need to start at .469" and finish at .474". I'm considering an adjustable 15/32 - 17/32 reamer, as that would meet my application. Your thoughts, please. Thanh you.
Thanks a lot for this...I would be more glad if you upload vedios on more tools ...like hand tools , measurement tools etc... However ...it's a great work .. !!
Forged carbon steel is not considered soft by most people. High carbon steel is tougher than mild steel and forged steel is also tougher than mild steel, so if it is made from forged carbon steel it will be tough and probably take the edge off the reamer! I guess you could try it, but you might damage the reamer. Thanks for the comment
As long as you get a parallel reamer (nor a tapered one), it should be the same diameter throughout its length, apart from at the end where you start the reamer off 👍
This probably isn't your thing but have you ever tried knife making where you experiment with different carbon content steels and heat treating processes? Very interesting in my opinion.
I might try making one in future from an old saw blade. I have just purchased a flame polishing machine which I hope will be suitable for heat treating steel. Thanks for the comment ;-)
9traktor No, I have never really used coolant when hand reaming as you are only removing a tiny bit of metal so heat build up is not normally a problem. Of course it should be used when machine reaming or when reaming out deeper holes etc. Thanks for the comment ;-)
You can use it if you want, but for something so small it is not really needed, as you are only removing a tiny amount of material, at a very slow speed. Thanks for the comment 👍
Yes, reamers are expensive especially for a set of them. I tend to just buy the size that I need. Sometimes you can pick them up at bargain prices when engineering companies close down etc. Thanks for the comment
A young metalworking Yank here, just wanted to leave a comment saying thanks for all these videos. I never had someone around who could teach these skills, so I had a late start.. but I've learned a lot from your content.
Seriously, it's much appreciated - Cheers, from California.
Hi Brian, I'm really glad that you find the videos useful ;-)
Thanks for the comment
A
Hi Handyman,
I really appreciate your willingness to demonstrate your uncertainty on turning the reamer backwards which you've been told is not recommended. A lot of people in metalworking wants to show off as Mr. tough guy who knows everything about it. Your approach to go along with a general recommendation shows a valuable personality trait.
+SE45CX Thanks, I did metal working at school and also did an adult apprenticeship in my late thirties doing fitting, mechanical and electrical maintenance. So as a pretty latecomer to metalworking (apart from school) I find that there are a lot of people out there with a lot more on the job knowledge. People often say that you can blunten a file by dragging it backwards, yet when I was doing my fitting course we used to draw file on a daily basis- which meant using the file sideways. Thanks for the comment ;-)
Great video, and good tutorial on the reamer. However I feel like the 4mm hole may have looked crummy because of how the work piece was tilting down when you were drilling it (causing the drill bit to cut away at the sides).
Thanks!
Thanks very much for the kind donation 👍
Invaluable content. Thanks for a simple, informative video.
Glad it was helpful!
Bit of advice bud, I want to cut/ream a perfect square groove in the end of a metal bar. A grinder is sloppy, a cutting disc may cut walls of the groove ok but the bottom is messy... would a reamer do this? pushing the reamer sideways into the bar? thanks for your help.
No, a reamer would probably break. Ideally you would use a milling machine and milling cutter.
Thanks for the comment
Ultimate Handyman thanks bud!
Love videos like this, learn something new everyday
Thanks for the comment
I have a question regarding the 4mm round steel insertion. How is it that it makes it through any hole so easily? In order to easily insert a true 4mm cylinder through a hole, the hole must be either larger than 4mm or the cylinder must be smaller. So, are we to assume that the reamed hole is spot on and the round stock is running a bit on the small side?
I'm not sure. I don't have anything that can measure really accurately!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Good to know, I might have to invest in a set, I quit often drill out mangled threads and retap them at a larger diameter, so these would be perfect. Great video.
Thanks, if you are re-tapping the hole you would not normally need a reamer though. You can just re-drill the hole to the correct size and then tap it out.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Ya dont need to ream for drilling and re tapping - millwrigjt
Hi, thanks for the video. I didn't know such thing exist! May I ask you to give an example when it is necessary to have a precise hole? is there any special case or just to have a neat hole? thanks again
You are welcome.
You might need a precise hole for example if you had to place a linear bearing into a machine as the diameter of the hole would have to be exact to hold the bearing in position. You also need a precise hole when pinning pieces of metal together using silver pin steel (which is ground to an exact tolerance). I'll be making a video of how to use silver pin steel in the coming weeks ;-)
Mehdi -- One example is when you're injection molding parts and use ejector pins that slide in and out of holes. You want precise hole diameters to prevent binding when the ejector pins move, but you don't want the hole oversized because that can lead to material making its way inside the hole.
Can we use drill bit as reamer tool?
No, a drill bit will not give a precise hole- like a reamer will.
@@ultimatehandyman ok
Great tip, thanks!
I have a couple of questions though:
1) I see you don't use any oil/fluid when drilling. Is it not always better to use oil/fluid to drill in metal?
2) Actually more of an observation: Is the inaccuracy not predominantly caused by the fact that the drill bit can move off center (wobble) - The better the drilling 'rig', the closer it will stay on center, of course. - causing a double cone shape, in stead of it being due to the drill bit not cutting on the sides?
1) yes drilling tapping fluid should be used, although I don't always use it when filming. You can get away with drilling a few small diameter holes before the drill bit starts to heat up.
2) It doesn't matter if the work piece is firmly bolted down and if you are using a large diameter drill bit that cannot flex, you will still not get an accurate hole using a drill bit.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
***** Well, there's always some play in a drilling column, isn't there? What I'm wondering about is: does this also occur when something is machined? I.e., is this two-step process also used in machining?
FloppyHares
Yes, reamers are widely used in machining when an exact hole needs to be made in metal. You can get reamers with a morse fitting that will then fit into most large pillar drills. Normally a undersized hole would be drilled using a drill bit, then it would be swapped for a reamer and the hole reamed to the correct size using that. I do have a machine reamer somewhere, which I should have sown in the demo, but I could not find it!
*****
Aha, ok, thanks for explaining!
FloppyHares
No problem at all.
Thanks for the comments ;-)
Can the reaming be done with a mill machine or CNC?
I've not done a lot of milling and never used a CNC, but I believe it can.
so after looking online for a reamer bit , there are so many different types , for metal which exactly would you recommend, what would I ask for ??? And thanks again for the video
+rence822 It depends what you are doing. If you are using it like I did by hand you need to get a hand reamer.Straight shank, parallel flutes.You can get adjustable reamers but I have never used one of those!
Great videos, informative and to the point. Keep up the good work mate.
Thanks Andy, I will do ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Thank you for making this video. But I wonder why you drilled the hole with the work piece out of the vice? The piece deflected under the drill pressure and that isn’t optimal. Just curious. All the best.
Thanks for the video. How can I ream out a .5" diameter hole to 15mm which is .09" bigger than .5"? the material is .75" thick cast iron pulley. Thank you.
+Bob Eagle You would probably have to drill it to 14.8mm then use a 15mm reamer.Thanks for the comment
Would it be advisable to drill a hole, ream it, then tap it, for precise internal threading?
I guess you could do, but I have never heard of anyone doing it before (that does not mean that people do not do it)
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman , no harm in trying. I'll buy a small diameter reamer and do a test. Thanks for the prompt reply. Also, thanks for the informative vids.
Never tried this method so thanks for taking time to upload for us, great tip. I haven't searched your channel but wanted to ask you a question while here, what make of drill bits are best to use on ceramic tiles?. I've drilled holes years n years ago using the masking tape effect and working up from a small bit to intended bit/hole size but thought i'd ask you if there's any good ones on market for me tool kits. Thanks.
For ceramic tiles the best bit is probably a spear shaped bit, like you would use on glass- th-cam.com/video/m_KDslB51FM/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the comment
*****
Thanks for taking time to post me link, watched and going to get some.
Kani Fuker
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Many thanks, actually a lot of information on the net....but yours very easy to follow.
+Mikkee33
You are welcome ;-)
Thanks for the comment
hi handyman,helped me so much completing work sheet for my btec a few of your videos helped too
I'm glad the video's help ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Which goggles you are wearing..
Can you name the goggles
Or link to buy☺️
They are Honeywell Millenia safety glasses. Normally I get them from Arco, but the last time I went they did not have them. These are by far the comfiest safety glasses that I have ever worn.
Here they are on ebay- fave.co/3okaiLT
Thanks for the comment
@@ultimatehandyman txx
Great video, very informative.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Can you use a reamer to bore out a golf club hosel (the hole in the golf club where the shaft goes into the head). Need to go from 0.355" to 0.370", maybe can do in two steps 0.2mm at a time? i think golf clubs are 17-4 stainless, not sure about metals. thanks.
You could do, but make sure you use plenty of coolant/lubricant as stainless steels can soon dull reamers etc.
Do you run into alignment issues (i.e. coming in at an angle or being off center) when hand reaming? And if so, is it more self-correcting than a taper reamer or do you have to "eye ball" really good to make sure you are 100% perpendicular?
I have never had a problem, but I don't do a huge amount of hand reaming.
You could use a self aligning tap wrench though- th-cam.com/video/imHGOC07vo8/w-d-xo.html
Or do the reaming in a pillar drill etc.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
@@ultimatehandyman thanks!
Do you need to use any cuttin oil when drilling an reaming.
It's best to use it, as the tools will last longer.
Thanks for the comment
How do you install the drillbit to the reamer handle? I am just wondering how is the grip and why it doesn't slip away? I used to see this tool before but never know what the use
+Meiji Jap
A hand reamer bit has a square on the end, just like a tap so you can use either in a tap wrench as it grips the square on the end once tightened.
Thank you for the info
Hi, is there a guide as to what size drill bit to use with a reamer. You used a 3.5mm for a 4mm reamer but mentioned a 3.8mm would be more appropriate. Is say 0.5mm less generally ok upto say a 10mm reamer? I have just started building a model steam engine, the plans say ream, but no mention of the prior hole diameter. Many thanks.
+Mikkee33
I think as a general rule of thumb you need to drill the hole 0.2mm smaller than the reamer you are using, so for a 10mm hole you would drill 9.8mm and for a 4mm hole you would drill 3.8mm etc.
Thanks for the comment and good luck with the steam engine ;-)
Does the reamer have a tapered start?
Most hand reamers do, but some machine reamers do not. They all have a chamfer on the end though.
Thanks for the comment 👍
You can use a reamer on drill press?
Yes, as long as it's on a slow speed.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Hello,. I would like to ask about what is size of reamer i use if my drill bit is 5/32 it is same size? thank you
The drill bit needs to be slightly smaller diameter than the reamer. Once reamed the hole will be an exact size.
I'm not familiar with Imperial sizes (sorry).
I've tried doing a google search from here, but only metric charts seem to be available here!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Charts are available for this. Hannibal carbide have one in the 'Documents' section of their website.
[At larger sizes, say 1/2" or greater we oldies often use a drill 1/64" less than the reamed size. You cannot do that here.]
If you are reaming a 5/32" hole then you need a number drill, a number 24 or a number 25 as given in the chart.
If you use a 9/64" drill bit it will leave about 10% of the final diameter to ream out which is too much - also the reamer may not start properly (reamers are very slightly tapered at the start end to make starting easier and straighter - but they won't be tapered 10%!) It is normal to leave about 2~3% of the diameter to be taken out by the reamer
The next standard drill up is 5/32" - so that's no good. And the nearest metric size is 3.5mm which is the same size as 9/64".
So if you don't have one, go out and buy a number 24 drill and if you are desperate use a 9/64" but go carefully!!
UH's comment is absolutely correct - NEVER turn a reamer counter clockwise - even if it is stuck in the hole. You will roll the cutting edges and the reamer will be ruined, and the hole too probably.
[Your question is a little ambiguous so I have answered as though you wanted a final size of 5/32" for your hole. Reply here if that is not the case.]
The drilling for reaming is 0.2 mm less than the reamer diameter that allowance for straight reamer or taper reamer ??
That is for a straight reamer, I've never used a tapered reamer (yet)
Thanks for the comment
Ultimate Handyman thanks for your reply
Curious as to whether a straight or spiral reamer makes a difference? I've got an aluminum engine block (halves actually) that I need to start at .469" and finish at .474". I'm considering an adjustable 15/32 - 17/32 reamer, as that would meet my application. Your thoughts, please. Thanh you.
I've never used an adjustable reamer, sorry.
I would assume it would do the trick though
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thanks a lot for this...I would be more glad if you upload vedios on more tools ...like hand tools , measurement tools etc...
However ...it's a great work .. !!
You are welcome.
I'll try to cover more hand tools in future.
Thanks for the comment
amazing video!!!!
Thank you!!
Can i ream a golf club's 0.355" hosel to 0.375" with a 3/8" hand reamer? It's forged carbon steel which i heard is really soft. Thanks.
Forged carbon steel is not considered soft by most people. High carbon steel is tougher than mild steel and forged steel is also tougher than mild steel, so if it is made from forged carbon steel it will be tough and probably take the edge off the reamer!
I guess you could try it, but you might damage the reamer.
Thanks for the comment
Okay thanks, doesn't sound like a good idea lol.
Not if they are forged carbon steel as reamers are expensive.
Thanks for the comments
What I don't understand is that the reamers here in England are shaped at an angle. So part of the hole will be slightly wider than the other end
As long as you get a parallel reamer (nor a tapered one), it should be the same diameter throughout its length, apart from at the end where you start the reamer off 👍
excellent info as always
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Your accent is just lovely and a handsome looking guy too...anyways video was very informational so thank you for that
Thank you! 😃
When using hand reamer, why turn it in clockwise?
Ziazan Flores
That's the direction that it cuts in, a bit like a drill bit.
This probably isn't your thing but have you ever tried knife making where you experiment with different carbon content steels and heat treating processes?
Very interesting in my opinion.
I might try making one in future from an old saw blade. I have just purchased a flame polishing machine which I hope will be suitable for heat treating steel.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
I'd love to see you make it!
Luke Tuttiett
Thanks Luke, I'll add it to my list of videos ;-)
Thanks for the comments
Thanks for explaining that
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment
Thanks great video. I didn't understand. Now I do
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
outstanding
Thanks for the comment 👍
For all you guys complaining about the price, remember, a good hole is always expensive,
LOL
All the H's saved from the making of this video have been donated to charity.
Lol I did not even know this. Thanks!
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Thanks
You are welcome.Thanks for the comment
Learn something new everyday even at 66.
Thanks Tom, I was about 38 before I even heard of a reamer!
thnx
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
missing the coolant!?
9traktor
No, I have never really used coolant when hand reaming as you are only removing a tiny bit of metal so heat build up is not normally a problem. Of course it should be used when machine reaming or when reaming out deeper holes etc.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
No cutting compound
You can use it if you want, but for something so small it is not really needed, as you are only removing a tiny amount of material, at a very slow speed.
Thanks for the comment 👍
That would be great if reamers weren't 20-100 bucks a piece.
Yes, unfortunately they are not cheap, but sometimes you can pick up a set of them for a bargain price when engineering firms close etc.
You remind me of Kevin Costner
Thanks for the comment
I want a set. But The only ones I've found are very expensive.
Yes, reamers are expensive especially for a set of them. I tend to just buy the size that I need.
Sometimes you can pick them up at bargain prices when engineering companies close down etc.
Thanks for the comment
my girlfriend was reamed hahaha
jay dogg idiot !
What is the regional accent here? This guy has a very strange way of pronouncing "R"
I'm from Darwen, Lancashire, UK - I don't pronounce the letter "H" either ;-)
Thanks for the comment 👍
ich bin ein rush
if you watch in the camera its much nicer for us to watch but its a nice world star hiphop