I realize this video is old, and I realize the channel hasn't had new content for a year, but I feel obligated to point out (since this comes up high enough in the search results) some suggestions/corrections: Grease in Cylinder: Grease is designed to lubricate via a film layer formed from compressing between two objects. O-rings pushed out by air will never provide the level of compression necessary to make grease seal a cylinder effectively and consistently. This is where film lubricants like heavy weight silicon oils reign supreme. Specifically, shock oils designed for RC cars. A light film of it on the inside is designed to seal in this manner since it doesn't require compression to form the lubricating layer that actually seals the O-ring to the Cylinder wall. This is why your ICS has an FPS fluctuation of +/- 6 FPS (a 12 FPS spread in total) when it is rather easy to get it down to +/-2 to +/-4 FPS. When I was teching in my late teens and early twenties, this was the easiest way to get consistency out of an AEG. Teflon Tape for Compression: Just no... Teflon tape may work but it is neither designed to work this way, nor is it particularly effective at it. Teflon tape is designed to fit between threads and keep them from galling in pipe fittings because the amount of torque required to actually seal threads against the gasses, etc, would normally gall the threads and potentially damage them. Pipe fitting threads are also tapered. If a cylinder head doesn't fit in the cylinder well enough to form an airseal, then I'd suggest replacing the O-rings on them... if that doesn't work or isn't an option, then move on to another cylinder head. If it's an absolute emergency, silicon sealants that come in tubes are your weapon of choice here... because they are designed to seal in this manner. They make an absolute mess and require you to apply the sealant and then assemble the upper rather quickly so the sealant doesn't make the cylinder head sit crooked in the cylinder. Compression Testing: Your method of testing compression will work, however it isn't the best method. The best method is to assemble the upper portion as completely as possible. Tappet plate, piston, cylinder head, cylinder, air nozzle and test the compression ASSEMBLED. Many times the play between all of the parts will give you a "perfect" air seal when out of the gearbox but when everything is forced to line up like it would in the actual gearbox it loses that air seal because things are not aligned as they were in testing. On a standard, non split gearbox this is best approximated using half the gearbox shell, in an ICS, you can DEFINITELY do this with just the upper gearbox assembled without the spring/spring guide. You MUST check this with everything installed as it would be in the AEG. Total Air Seal Testing: It really is a great idea to test the total air seal of the system, from end of barrel to the cylinder. This is not the easiest to accomplish and I always asked my customers if they wanted me to do this level of testing or not, but when you have paying customers who expect high quality work, many are willing to have this level of testing done. There are a multitude of ways to do it, but I always preferred removing the outer barrel assembly and leaving everything that supported the hop up. Test the compression through the ENTIRE system to ensure that the hop up rubber was sealing to the air nozzle. Many opt to just test the hop up unit seal by manually holding it to the gearbox... this works in a pinch, but like testing the compression out of the gearbox, it can lead to results not matching up when assembled. I used my finger on the end of the barrel with that same hand supporting the barrel so I wasn't pushing it back in the hop up unit. I then manually compressed the cylinder with my finger. Other tips, on M4's with standard gearboxes, the one thing I found that was handy an old V2 gearbox I had... I lopped off the one side of the gearbox so I had just the upper portion of it. I'd use this to test total air seal as well as to more accurately test the compression components of the gearbox. Most V3 gearboxes are easier to test without going this route, but I was going to eventually do this with them too. Lastly, #14 O-Rings are your friend!
I know you posted this one a while ago, but Thanks! Another great video and I learned a couple new things from it. Again Thanks for all the great videos you do!
I have a issue I upgraded my cyma ak74 ktr the piston nozzle cylinder and trigger and now I’m having trouble with full auto and it not wanting to engage a bb do you have any suggestions
I found out how to upgrade the internals without buying any parts all you need are used worn piston and piston head with the old o rings put you Teflon tape around the piston o rings before putting the O ring and you will gain 80+ fps
I want to see one inside the gearbox video from you. How to make best possible air seal between nozzle and hop up bucking. I know that really important is to make both thinks as much in line as possible but how to do that in different types of bodies. M4, AK, ...
you don't put grease on the cylinder bro.. that will make your cylinder and barrel dirty.. you only put grease on gears.. use silicone spray on the cylinder which is available .. use rubber sealant on the cylinder head and hop assy, that adds another 5-10fps
RiceMobile a ported piston head i believe, the ports allow the oring to pull away from the cylinder walls on the compressing part of the spring so that it slides more easily
Thanks for the video. I realized my piston head was causing air leaks. It was the silent type and didn't mesh well with the washer on the cylinder head. I simply swapped it with a flat aluminum one and now it works fine. Weird lol.
6:55 who you prevent that vacum if no hole ther? and if you put the hole ther no air compresion. So the question who really work this airsoft piston.? By the way look he is working but i want to know who work. thank you.
Hey Tech, really good vids, helpful and good camera-work. I've been having trouble with a G&P M4 of mine, heavily modified internally for a Trigger response (and by default, a high speed as well) build. The trouble is that I cannot get it to feed in semi-auto reliably, even with a variety of magazines. It shoots maybe 1 in 4 rounds on semi (the mode I like to use exclusively). Auto seems fine (although while shooting at high 20 rps it's hard to tell). It seems like the Air nozzle is not allowing a new round to chamber properly. The build is as follows: SHS 13:1's, Lonex A2 or 3 Motor, m100 spring, Nuke-fet, SHS HS piston, SHS piston head, stock Cylinder head/cylinder, and an unknown brand tappet plate. This is going into a Prowin hop chamber. i have replaced the tappet plate, hop bucking (Madbull red, G&G Green, and Angel Custom V) I've sector chipped the gearbox to pull the tappet plate back for a hair longer and that has helped slightly, but Im wondering what else I can try. My next step is to replace the stock aluminum air-nozzle. It seems to be a bigger problem with heavier ammo (.32s and above). Any Suggestions to get me back on track but still avoid the dreaded over-travel? Thanks.
+Matthew Peck Have you tried a delay clip on the sector gear? I had problems with my mp5 feeding when i put 13:1 gears in it, and a delay clip solved that.
+Matthew Peck I know you posted this question a while ago, but I just got done having a similar issue with my very first, high end, M4 that I've had for years. Its also a heavily modded gun, all based around a Lonex gun. I was also having feeding issues similar to yours. The first thing you'll want to check is to see if the nozzle is actually clearing the entire hop chamber to allow a BB to feed up and be pushed forward into the hop unit. Make sure the gun is cleared completely and that there is no BB in the hopup unit at all. Then look down into the hopup unit and fire the gun a few times. Does the nozzle pull all the way back and allow a BB to pass into the hop unit? If not, the BB has a hard time feeding properly. There could be several reasons for that. Tappet plate could be worn and isn't being pulled back far enough, maybe you need a delayer chip on your sector gear or you took too much material off the front of your tappet plate and the nozzle goes too far forward now. If this is happening and its now a mag or magwell issue, then one way to check it may seem like an odd thing to do, but it shows you how your nozzle is actually hitting inside the hopup unit. Remove your barrel and hopup unit from the upper and mount it onto the nozzle and let it sit on there. Then take a loaded mag and insert that into the magwell and fit the hopup unit into place. With one hand fire the gun, with the other hold the hopup/barrel assemble and move it around ever so slightly. Does that improve the ability to feed BBs up into the hopup properly? In my case it wasn't a mag issue or how it sat in the magwell. If I rocked the mag back and forth it wouldn't change anything. So it had to be how far in the nozzle was fitting into the hopup unit. And yes, it was pushing in too far and not always allowing BBs to feed. In my case it turned out that if I put a small, thin O-Ring on the back of my Lonex Enhanced hopup unit and it spaced the hopup just forward ever so slightly. Enough to allow the nozzle to clear and now all my mags (Elite Force 140rd mids and KWA K120 mids) feed proper! Making my gun fun to play with again. Good luck!
Useful video, especially for a newcomer. However, your final chrono shows a lot of fps variation for an aeg with perfect air-seal don't you think? You have a low of 380 and a high of 392. Maybe I'm a perfectionist, but +/- 12fps would be too much variance for me if I was looking for a 'perfect' air-seal.
+/- 1-2 FPS is very good. But results can vary even between two different chronos. Also, BB quality and weight can have a big impact on readings. What weight/brand do you use?
Hi. first off great video. i wanted to know if you have any experience with a kwa erg pts. i just purchased a kwa pts erg that the previous owner has rear wired unfortunantly it seems to shoot really low fps like 50 feet! maybe less. i was told it might be air compression in the gearbox. but im not a tech... any ideas? or suggestions
AJ Enojardo That is to lighten the piston body Less reciprocating mass = higher rpm, less breakage, (higher durability),should increase fps out of the barrel.
Awesome video massive help one question though. Dose the hop unit you use make any difference as to what air nozzle you need. I have a prowin hop up in my m4
Try 1/2 or 1/2L... I use them in my gun, forget exactly which of the two. Buy both and try them. They're like $1 or so at Lowe's or any store like that
+J “Frostpirate” Gignac ICS m4s pretty much work with all parts for a v2 (Excluding nozzles). But they do have some issues such as their hopup chamber/feeding
TheAirsoftScorpion yes I'm currently in the middle of trying bucking and nub combos cause the stock hop up is garbage and doesn't even apply hop until it's 3/4 on
Nice video! Seems like you're one of the few who knows what you are talking about. I have an ics par mk3 mtr r with the 120 spring and I'm new to this. What can I do to get a good seal and increase my fps without spending too much money. The only change I've made is a precision barrel.
On the piston head? Yes. Otherwise it might create a vacuum inside the cylinder when the piston is getting pushed back and not getting enough air for the shot.
It's actually impossible for the piston head to create a vacuum in the cylinder when it's being retracted because the air nozzle is retracted before the piston is engaged by the sector gear.
Gf walked in and I paused on the superlube section of the video. She thought I was researching to spice up our sex life. Can you believe she got angry cause its airsoft stuff? My crew only understands...
This should help you out 😉 #LubeLife Water Based Personal Lubricant, 55 Gallon Sex Lube for Men, Women and Couples www.amazon.com/dp/B07FMGNV51/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aXXvEb5EWK198
You'll never get 100% compression with a standard set-up, and certainly not with the 'standard' overhaul regime (clean, then slap grease over everything. Why do your AEGs lose compression over time? Because the grease catches and holds dust/dirt/debris every single time you fire it, the AEG Gearbox is just a glorified Air Pump after all, sucking in outside air with every stroke. Imagine if you stripped your G/Box down after every few hundred rounds and cleaned and re-lubed it. It would be an improvement, but the Grease would still be holding that dirt. Only guaranteed way to keep your AEG's performance as good as possible, is to not use Grease on assembly. Spray Silicone lube directly into the Cylinder as often as is practical, after every game (that's every game, not game day) if it's dry and dusty. Use a long thin tube, like the ones you get with some Aerosols, join them together with Heat-Shrink, and/or sections of Silicone Wire insulation. You want it long enough to reach down from the Muzzle, into the Cylinder, and spray directly onto the Piston head. You can also buy lengths of very thin plastic tubing very cheaply. Let it soak for a minute, then fire a few dozen shots to expel the excess. Finally, squeeze a 'skinny' cigarette Filter endways between your fingers to expand it's diameter slightly (they're a shade under 6mm out-of-the-box), push it down the Barrel until it hits the Hop Rubber inlet Lip, then fire it out. Do that once more, and voila, you have a perfectly lubed Piston-Head O-Ring and Cylinder, with no excess grease anywhere. It flushes out the small amount of crap that's got in since last time, leaving the insides as clean as when they were assembled. Just enough lube for a game or two. It takes a minute to do it, easily done between games. Do it at the end of the day too. Your AEG will keep it's FPS constant for as long as you keep up this routine. I chronoed my CA AK a few months ago, after it had been unused for over five years, gave around 345fps, just a few fps down on when it was last used (350-ish).
Silicon spray collects just as much dust and dirt as silicon grease, sometimes more because it becomes sticky with time. That's a problem that anyone who uses GBB weapons will encounter. Green gas has silicone lube added to protect the o-rings. The silicon gets transferred to the bucking. Hop becomes ineffective. Spraying silicon into the air group may be a lazy short term fix, but ultimately it will cause you more problems than proper regular servicing. A good tech will use both grease and spray depending on the need. What do you think's going to happen to all that crap you're spraying into your cylinder after every game ... it will cleanly evaporate?
I lube the air seal parts on assembly, and last time I chronoed my upgraded ICS MP5 the seal had actually improved from when I assembled it. It shot 1.45 joules freshly assembled, with maybe a couple FPS deviation, last time I chronoed it, a few months and maybe 20k shots after assembly it had gone up to 1.5 joules and was still nice and consistent. Silicone spray is way too thin to give a somewhat lasting lubrication, I use silicone paste or high viscosity silicone oil, works like a charm.
That was my point. Silicone spray isn't meant to be a 'lasting' lubricant, I spray it into the Cylinder before and after each and every time the AEG is used, it keeps the Cylinder and Piston Head O-Ring perfectly clean and lubed indefinitely. It's like stripping and lubing your Gearbox after every game, and you can't get better than that, can you! Your findings will be due to the lube thinning out after some use, eventually it will start to deteriorate. I'd like to see the internals when you finally strip it down, I guarantee it won't be pretty!
I realize this video is old, and I realize the channel hasn't had new content for a year, but I feel obligated to point out (since this comes up high enough in the search results) some suggestions/corrections:
Grease in Cylinder: Grease is designed to lubricate via a film layer formed from compressing between two objects. O-rings pushed out by air will never provide the level of compression necessary to make grease seal a cylinder effectively and consistently. This is where film lubricants like heavy weight silicon oils reign supreme. Specifically, shock oils designed for RC cars. A light film of it on the inside is designed to seal in this manner since it doesn't require compression to form the lubricating layer that actually seals the O-ring to the Cylinder wall. This is why your ICS has an FPS fluctuation of +/- 6 FPS (a 12 FPS spread in total) when it is rather easy to get it down to +/-2 to +/-4 FPS. When I was teching in my late teens and early twenties, this was the easiest way to get consistency out of an AEG.
Teflon Tape for Compression: Just no... Teflon tape may work but it is neither designed to work this way, nor is it particularly effective at it. Teflon tape is designed to fit between threads and keep them from galling in pipe fittings because the amount of torque required to actually seal threads against the gasses, etc, would normally gall the threads and potentially damage them. Pipe fitting threads are also tapered. If a cylinder head doesn't fit in the cylinder well enough to form an airseal, then I'd suggest replacing the O-rings on them... if that doesn't work or isn't an option, then move on to another cylinder head. If it's an absolute emergency, silicon sealants that come in tubes are your weapon of choice here... because they are designed to seal in this manner. They make an absolute mess and require you to apply the sealant and then assemble the upper rather quickly so the sealant doesn't make the cylinder head sit crooked in the cylinder.
Compression Testing: Your method of testing compression will work, however it isn't the best method. The best method is to assemble the upper portion as completely as possible. Tappet plate, piston, cylinder head, cylinder, air nozzle and test the compression ASSEMBLED. Many times the play between all of the parts will give you a "perfect" air seal when out of the gearbox but when everything is forced to line up like it would in the actual gearbox it loses that air seal because things are not aligned as they were in testing. On a standard, non split gearbox this is best approximated using half the gearbox shell, in an ICS, you can DEFINITELY do this with just the upper gearbox assembled without the spring/spring guide. You MUST check this with everything installed as it would be in the AEG.
Total Air Seal Testing: It really is a great idea to test the total air seal of the system, from end of barrel to the cylinder. This is not the easiest to accomplish and I always asked my customers if they wanted me to do this level of testing or not, but when you have paying customers who expect high quality work, many are willing to have this level of testing done. There are a multitude of ways to do it, but I always preferred removing the outer barrel assembly and leaving everything that supported the hop up. Test the compression through the ENTIRE system to ensure that the hop up rubber was sealing to the air nozzle. Many opt to just test the hop up unit seal by manually holding it to the gearbox... this works in a pinch, but like testing the compression out of the gearbox, it can lead to results not matching up when assembled. I used my finger on the end of the barrel with that same hand supporting the barrel so I wasn't pushing it back in the hop up unit. I then manually compressed the cylinder with my finger.
Other tips, on M4's with standard gearboxes, the one thing I found that was handy an old V2 gearbox I had... I lopped off the one side of the gearbox so I had just the upper portion of it. I'd use this to test total air seal as well as to more accurately test the compression components of the gearbox. Most V3 gearboxes are easier to test without going this route, but I was going to eventually do this with them too.
Lastly, #14 O-Rings are your friend!
I'm copying this entire comment into the notes on my phone
Great insight, extremely useful knowledge. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you my friend. Nicely done
my main man thank you. good video, great comment supplement.
Thank you for the info it is good to dispel the mystery of how things work i was scratching my head about the teflon tape thing to
I swear those 8 years old videos are the best
Btw since my last comment 2 weeks ago, I have perfect air seal now, and it sounds scarry. Can't wait to try it on a chrony
this video is like a airsoft bible for me. You are really a master of airsoft teching. Learned much from your videos. Thank you man!
This Inside of Gearbox playlist is best thing I've ever seen. I'm airsoft beginner and your channel is the best school I found. Thanks. Subscribed
The a.s tech known as " negative airsoft" would have a fit if he seen you promote ptfe tape on the cylinder head .
Number 14 o ring.
I use rolling cigarette filters to clean my barrel and cylinder head. Perfectly sized and collects all the gunk!
That's pretty smart actually.
Not bad. Are they just cotton?
#14 O-rings Ryan! I like Danco ones, they work great.
I know you posted this one a while ago, but Thanks! Another great video and I learned a couple new things from it. Again Thanks for all the great videos you do!
You have become my goto for airsoft tech info. Thanks!
There is a very annoying high pitched whine in the background of the video during the parts of you standing in front of the gun wall.
i thought it was someone with squeaky brakes stopping outside my house. top lel
This is exactly what I needed, thanks!
This was extremely helpful.
At the start I never understood but now a few years later as I re visit I’ve found I completely understand the last part about the tappet plate
this was a fantastic video. thanks for all the information!
where do I get an O ring
I have a issue I upgraded my cyma ak74 ktr the piston nozzle cylinder and trigger and now I’m having trouble with full auto and it not wanting to engage a bb do you have any suggestions
Thank you for pointing out a good air nozzle for ICSs.
I found out how to upgrade the internals without buying any parts all you need are used worn piston and piston head with the old o rings put you Teflon tape around the piston o rings before putting the O ring and you will gain 80+ fps
I lost you at teflon tape
I want to see one inside the gearbox video from you. How to make best possible air seal between nozzle and hop up bucking. I know that really important is to make both thinks as much in line as possible but how to do that in different types of bodies. M4, AK, ...
He has one on tuning a hop up unit
+Minder Maniac I mean somethink more like shimming gearbox inside body to getting best possible in line placement and best airseal.
Tomi Čičmo Ah I see what you're saying now
If you have a aluminum cylinder head do you have to have a polycarbonate piston head?
Hey! Make a tune video of ELS-74 MN assault rifle replica (Gen. 2)
PLEASE!
Thank you for sharing with us
greatly appreciate it.
What is a good air seal? Can a very small amount of air leak? Or does it have to be no air leakage
I got the same chronograph. Is it pretty accurate?
i cant get the cylinder head onto the cylinder help someone please
What o ring is that
you don't put grease on the cylinder bro.. that will make your cylinder and barrel dirty.. you only put grease on gears.. use silicone spray on the cylinder which is available .. use rubber sealant on the cylinder head and hop assy, that adds another 5-10fps
What size of pistion head o-ring should I get (outer dia, inner dia & width)?
if you're pulling back your piston and it is creating a vacuum, how do you correct this?
RiceMobile a ported piston head i believe, the ports allow the oring to pull away from the cylinder walls on the compressing part of the spring so that it slides more easily
Thanks for the video. I realized my piston head was causing air leaks. It was the silent type and didn't mesh well with the washer on the cylinder head. I simply swapped it with a flat aluminum one and now it works fine. Weird lol.
Where can I get that piston washer/bushing thing ?
Yea you made a video!
Is a M4 nozzle 21.5mm?
Only bad teks get compression loss.
We need to film another podcast btw.
+Legacy Airsoft kek-tek
yee boi
what cylinder is that
> G&G piston head
> Compression loss
> y u do dis ryan.jpeg
6:55 who you prevent that vacum if no hole ther? and if you put the hole ther no air compresion.
So the question who really work this airsoft piston.? By the way look he is working but i want to know who work. thank you.
Great vid very detailed
Hey Tech, really good vids, helpful and good camera-work.
I've been having trouble with a G&P M4 of mine, heavily modified internally for a Trigger response (and by default, a high speed as well) build. The trouble is that I cannot get it to feed in semi-auto reliably, even with a variety of magazines. It shoots maybe 1 in 4 rounds on semi (the mode I like to use exclusively). Auto seems fine (although while shooting at high 20 rps it's hard to tell). It seems like the Air nozzle is not allowing a new round to chamber properly.
The build is as follows: SHS 13:1's, Lonex A2 or 3 Motor, m100 spring, Nuke-fet, SHS HS piston, SHS piston head, stock Cylinder head/cylinder, and an unknown brand tappet plate. This is going into a Prowin hop chamber.
i have replaced the tappet plate, hop bucking (Madbull red, G&G Green, and Angel Custom V) I've sector chipped the gearbox to pull the tappet plate back for a hair longer and that has helped slightly, but Im wondering what else I can try. My next step is to replace the stock aluminum air-nozzle. It seems to be a bigger problem with heavier ammo (.32s and above). Any Suggestions to get me back on track but still avoid the dreaded over-travel? Thanks.
+Matthew Peck Have you tried a delay clip on the sector gear? I had problems with my mp5 feeding when i put 13:1 gears in it, and a delay clip solved that.
+Matthew Peck I know you posted this question a while ago, but I just got done having a similar issue with my very first, high end, M4 that I've had for years. Its also a heavily modded gun, all based around a Lonex gun. I was also having feeding issues similar to yours. The first thing you'll want to check is to see if the nozzle is actually clearing the entire hop chamber to allow a BB to feed up and be pushed forward into the hop unit. Make sure the gun is cleared completely and that there is no BB in the hopup unit at all. Then look down into the hopup unit and fire the gun a few times. Does the nozzle pull all the way back and allow a BB to pass into the hop unit? If not, the BB has a hard time feeding properly. There could be several reasons for that. Tappet plate could be worn and isn't being pulled back far enough, maybe you need a delayer chip on your sector gear or you took too much material off the front of your tappet plate and the nozzle goes too far forward now. If this is happening and its now a mag or magwell issue, then one way to check it may seem like an odd thing to do, but it shows you how your nozzle is actually hitting inside the hopup unit. Remove your barrel and hopup unit from the upper and mount it onto the nozzle and let it sit on there. Then take a loaded mag and insert that into the magwell and fit the hopup unit into place. With one hand fire the gun, with the other hold the hopup/barrel assemble and move it around ever so slightly. Does that improve the ability to feed BBs up into the hopup properly? In my case it wasn't a mag issue or how it sat in the magwell. If I rocked the mag back and forth it wouldn't change anything. So it had to be how far in the nozzle was fitting into the hopup unit. And yes, it was pushing in too far and not always allowing BBs to feed. In my case it turned out that if I put a small, thin O-Ring on the back of my Lonex Enhanced hopup unit and it spaced the hopup just forward ever so slightly. Enough to allow the nozzle to clear and now all my mags (Elite Force 140rd mids and KWA K120 mids) feed proper! Making my gun fun to play with again. Good luck!
Is M4 nozzles compatible with my cm16 raider 2.0?
Reminds me of my RX8 ;)
dorito apex seals be like
Does Swiss cheasing the piston decrease fps? But increase speed?
+Play's Screen
it may even boost fps it, you never lose fps from it, you tend to gain fps, and yes it'll increase speed
+Christian Vedel thanks!
Useful video, especially for a newcomer. However, your final chrono shows a lot of fps variation for an aeg with perfect air-seal don't you think?
You have a low of 380 and a high of 392.
Maybe I'm a perfectionist, but +/- 12fps would be too much variance for me if I was looking for a 'perfect' air-seal.
I agree, I aim for +/-3 FPS maximum inconsistency, I usually get it within +/- 1-2 FPS inconsistency.
+/- 1-2 FPS is very good. But results can vary even between two different chronos. Also, BB quality and weight can have a big impact on readings. What weight/brand do you use?
I only use G&G, and I usually chrono with .25's and .28's, and I use an Xcortech X3200 chrono.
Okay, thanks. Xcortech X3200 here as well.
Hi. first off great video. i wanted to know if you have any experience with a kwa erg pts. i just purchased a kwa pts erg that the previous owner has rear wired unfortunantly it seems to shoot really low fps like 50 feet! maybe less. i was told it might be air compression in the gearbox. but im not a tech... any ideas? or suggestions
I have an ics m4 and I want to upgrade for range and jewels can you help me with it with parents?
Parts
How u figuere out whitch nozzle u need ? I have classic army m16a4 v2 gearbox
A v2 nozzle.
Your videos are always great! I have a question please, are there any issues surrounding one piece cylinders v.s. 2 part ones plz? Thx.
What is the use of holes in piston body?
AJ Enojardo
That is to lighten the piston body
Less reciprocating mass = higher rpm, less breakage, (higher durability),should increase fps out of the barrel.
what gun is that?tnx
ICS M4 idk the exact model
Is you piston made of a metal like aircraft aluminum or steel or is it made if polycarbonate with steel teeth?
Its Plastic with steel teeth
any advice on an APS SR2 for airsealing the Piston and nozzle, 500fps Springer, just looking for more consistent distance
Awesome video massive help one question though. Dose the hop unit you use make any difference as to what air nozzle you need. I have a prowin hop up in my m4
can't remember, but I know you use faucet washers for aoe, what size are they? have you cracked any gearboxes with them before?
Try 1/2 or 1/2L... I use them in my gun, forget exactly which of the two. Buy both and try them. They're like $1 or so at Lowe's or any store like that
m6, 20mm. If for v2 at least.
It's not perfect but my sr25 at least on 25's is about a +-5 fps
OK I realize he is using a Modify Cylinder head but I'am unable to figure out if it's V2 or V3 can someone help ?
This cylinder head is an shs v2
+TheAirsoftTech sweet thanks dude, I just recently got a ICS m4 so been looking for parts that work for sure😁
+J “Frostpirate” Gignac ICS m4s pretty much work with all parts for a v2 (Excluding nozzles). But they do have some issues such as their hopup chamber/feeding
TheAirsoftScorpion yes I'm currently in the middle of trying bucking and nub combos cause the stock hop up is garbage and doesn't even apply hop until it's 3/4 on
Mate, a good investment in your tools would be a ultrasonic cleaner!
I thought super lube was patroluem based, isn't it?
Nope. its amazing. very versatile. Safe for rubber.
Nice video! Seems like you're one of the few who knows what you are talking about. I have an ics par mk3 mtr r with the 120 spring and I'm new to this. What can I do to get a good seal and increase my fps without spending too much money. The only change I've made is a precision barrel.
Should the oring be loose
On the piston head? Yes. Otherwise it might create a vacuum inside the cylinder when the piston is getting pushed back and not getting enough air for the shot.
It's actually impossible for the piston head to create a vacuum in the cylinder when it's being retracted because the air nozzle is retracted before the piston is engaged by the sector gear.
Dig the shirt
Bless u
What brand of air nozzle ? I need an air nozzle for the m16 ics . What would you recommend ?
Tiago Pereira lonex, shs or asg are all good
Cheesing*
Funny how standard airsoft guns shoot the same as a gel gun after you spend $700 on it haha,
Gf walked in and I paused on the superlube section of the video. She thought I was researching to spice up our sex life. Can you believe she got angry cause its airsoft stuff? My crew only understands...
This should help you out 😉 #LubeLife Water Based Personal Lubricant, 55 Gallon Sex Lube for Men, Women and Couples www.amazon.com/dp/B07FMGNV51/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aXXvEb5EWK198
You'll never get 100% compression with a standard set-up, and certainly not with the 'standard' overhaul regime (clean, then slap grease over everything.
Why do your AEGs lose compression over time?
Because the grease catches and holds dust/dirt/debris every single time you fire it, the AEG Gearbox is just a glorified Air Pump after all, sucking in outside air with every stroke.
Imagine if you stripped your G/Box down after every few hundred rounds and cleaned and re-lubed it.
It would be an improvement, but the Grease would still be holding that dirt.
Only guaranteed way to keep your AEG's performance as good as possible, is to not use Grease on assembly.
Spray Silicone lube directly into the Cylinder as often as is practical, after every game (that's every game, not game day) if it's dry and dusty.
Use a long thin tube, like the ones you get with some Aerosols, join them together with Heat-Shrink, and/or sections of Silicone Wire insulation.
You want it long enough to reach down from the Muzzle, into the Cylinder, and spray directly onto the Piston head.
You can also buy lengths of very thin plastic tubing very cheaply.
Let it soak for a minute, then fire a few dozen shots to expel the excess.
Finally, squeeze a 'skinny' cigarette Filter endways between your fingers to expand it's diameter slightly (they're a shade under 6mm out-of-the-box), push it down the Barrel until it hits the Hop Rubber inlet Lip, then fire it out.
Do that once more, and voila, you have a perfectly lubed Piston-Head O-Ring and Cylinder, with no excess grease anywhere.
It flushes out the small amount of crap that's got in since last time, leaving the insides as clean as when they were assembled.
Just enough lube for a game or two.
It takes a minute to do it, easily done between games.
Do it at the end of the day too.
Your AEG will keep it's FPS constant for as long as you keep up this routine.
I chronoed my CA AK a few months ago, after it had been unused for over five years, gave around 345fps, just a few fps down on when it was last used (350-ish).
Silicon spray collects just as much dust and dirt as silicon grease, sometimes more because it becomes sticky with time.
That's a problem that anyone who uses GBB weapons will encounter. Green gas has silicone lube added to protect the o-rings. The silicon gets transferred to the bucking. Hop becomes ineffective.
Spraying silicon into the air group may be a lazy short term fix, but ultimately it will cause you more problems than proper regular servicing.
A good tech will use both grease and spray depending on the need.
What do you think's going to happen to all that crap you're spraying into your cylinder after every game ... it will cleanly evaporate?
John Warner I have a stock tm p90 that is 13 years old. Last when I bought it (two years ago) it was still shooting exactly what tms generally shoot
I lube the air seal parts on assembly, and last time I chronoed my upgraded ICS MP5 the seal had actually improved from when I assembled it. It shot 1.45 joules freshly assembled, with maybe a couple FPS deviation, last time I chronoed it, a few months and maybe 20k shots after assembly it had gone up to 1.5 joules and was still nice and consistent. Silicone spray is way too thin to give a somewhat lasting lubrication, I use silicone paste or high viscosity silicone oil, works like a charm.
That was my point.
Silicone spray isn't meant to be a 'lasting' lubricant, I spray it into the Cylinder before and after each and every time the AEG is used, it keeps the Cylinder and Piston Head O-Ring perfectly clean and lubed indefinitely.
It's like stripping and lubing your Gearbox after every game, and you can't get better than that, can you!
Your findings will be due to the lube thinning out after some use, eventually it will start to deteriorate.
I'd like to see the internals when you finally strip it down, I guarantee it won't be pretty!
John Warner no it won't be pretty but it will still have excellent seal after 50k+ shots.
390fps? :D so weak :D in Czech Republic we play with 450+ ;)
Awesome. In USA only snipers are allowed to go above 400
You will not be able to play at normal airsoft event's.
@@smileydog5941 i have 700 fps on my sniper rifle in Poland