For some reason it's only a New England thing. It helps structurally as a huge brace for joists, gives you flexibility to fix any joist imperfections and room to run wires or even PEX perpendicular to joists. In this case it's manufactured joists so the latter two don't apply. But in any case I'd like to hear how Steve explains it.
Hey steve, Enjoy your videos though im not a builder. I have done extensive DIY remodeling on my house. i've watched your episodes on framing the big green box and the complexities of adding a roof are always present. I wonder why not build the green box with a top (flat framed with sheathing) to keep the entire box continuous? Then add a roof on top of the entirely closed and conditioned box? Not like whats often called lego framing where the pitched roof structure is part of the box. There seems to be so much effort in the science of making the roof part of the box. Why not just frame the entire interior ceiling as part of the green box?
That's how I built my house... Zip on the walls, zip on the interior ceiling (continuos)... It's an Eko Built wall and roof system that meets passive house standards.... 0 degrees F today and I didn't have any heat on.
Jonathan so you have a flat roof or you built a pitched roof over the flat topped green box? Ive seen videos of houses in norway or the like where the entire house is placed insidee a greenhouse like structure. They will never have to deal with issues related to water falling from the sky. Building a pitched roof over a flat box seems to make a lot of sense for a 1000 reasons. So why isn't that standard?
So we built a rectangle with a 12/12 pitch...vaulted ceiling inside. The zip acts as the vapor barrier. We have very thick walls (14 " I joists) on the outside of our 2x6 zip walls that contain insulation and they get covered with wood fibreboard that connects to the roof. That is our continuous air barrier. On top of that is the actual roof. 2x4s with a nice vented air space. Shingled. My wife has a channel called Tiny Barn Farm, there are a few videos there that give you a glimpse at the house. We are in northern Canada. Cheers!
Steve, have a look at these hinges this guy has come up with for automotive. I immediately thought of you because there is an architectural application. European style awning windows with exposed hinge which swings tight against weather stripping. th-cam.com/video/Ojo4JbHejAs/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Ego2xe5GbY3PMMf3
Supposition: Adding exterior insulation to your garage will blunt the heat influx due to sunlight, solar radiation. The solar radiation that is not reflected off by the siding will be completely absorbed by the siding and the Zip R surface/OSB, which will get hotter, and, subsequently, the polyiso. will attenuate its conductive flow into the interior. That is, contact flow of energy from the heated wall to the inner air. Some of that heat energy stored in the siding and OSB will also be radiated out in both directions [black body radiation], reducing the inward flow by one-half, and the polyiso. will not attenuate that radiation. Over a summer’s day, you will have reduced the heat flow into the garage and, ultimately, the heat conduction to the living space. So, there are multiple processes sequentially occurring at all of the walls of the structure. I hope you try and get a thermal engineer, not a typical energy consultant, to look at these things and make some estimates. Question on your sheathing design: Are you concerned about mold growth between the garage inner plywood sheathing and the polyiso. side of the Zip R? No one seems concerned about mold growth on the insulated side of Zip R sheathing. Trapped moisture could lead to mold growth on the inner plywood surface. Can mold grow on polyiso? Thanks.
Understood, garage is the North side of the building, keeping heat out in the summer is a good thing. As for polyiso, it is not mold food, however dust/debris on it has the potential, need to make sure its clean upon install. As for moisture on the plywood, it can dry easily to the inside of the garage.
That window detail is 109,000% overkill if you use the right Windows and you install them right all of that is absolutely a waste of time and a waste of money
@ been building houses on Long Island on the North Shore and the South Shore close to 40 years and I’ve gone back to home. I built 30 years ago and replace windows and never had an issue and that’s through hurricanes and storms and ocean breeze the hardware in the windows, give out long before that ever fails.
@@fuzion430journey3 OK good - maybe you should post your techniques so we can all learn from someone with such stated experience. I've worked on investigating homes for a significant part of my career and have seen horror shows, my work is in response to my experience
So wait a minute you’re gonna go through all that ridiculous unnecessary nonsense framing in the windows and then you’re gonna use aluminum windows come on man. I thought you were smarter than that.
That window detail is 109,000% overkill if you use the right Windows and you install them right all of that is absolutely a waste of time and a waste of money
“So many building sometimes forget” 😂😂😂 and Littleman would like to see all of them and one day be able to say the same. 👊🏽 you the man Steve!!!!
Steve, if you’re using a limestone surround with the windows, how would the lintel and sill, etc work with the rip sill and 1x backdam?
Thank you for your chanel. Should rough sill has slope of 1/4 per foot ?
just needs to slop in my opinion
75 (or so) windows. wow, the window + door package must have been a big budget item.
Always is
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431how much of a premium are the shuco windows?
Building Sup. rolls up and says wtf are you? he just runs away :D
sometimes
Curious: what purpose is the grid framing on some of the ceilings?
For some reason it's only a New England thing. It helps structurally as a huge brace for joists, gives you flexibility to fix any joist imperfections and room to run wires or even PEX perpendicular to joists.
In this case it's manufactured joists so the latter two don't apply.
But in any case I'd like to hear how Steve explains it.
Hey steve,
Enjoy your videos though im not a builder. I have done extensive DIY remodeling on my house. i've watched your episodes on framing the big green box and the complexities of adding a roof are always present. I wonder why not build the green box with a top (flat framed with sheathing) to keep the entire box continuous? Then add a roof on top of the entirely closed and conditioned box? Not like whats often called lego framing where the pitched roof structure is part of the box. There seems to be so much effort in the science of making the roof part of the box. Why not just frame the entire interior ceiling as part of the green box?
That's how I built my house... Zip on the walls, zip on the interior ceiling (continuos)... It's an Eko Built wall and roof system that meets passive house standards.... 0 degrees F today and I didn't have any heat on.
Jonathan so you have a flat roof or you built a pitched roof over the flat topped green box? Ive seen videos of houses in norway or the like where the entire house is placed insidee a greenhouse like structure. They will never have to deal with issues related to water falling from the sky. Building a pitched roof over a flat box seems to make a lot of sense for a 1000 reasons. So why isn't that standard?
So we built a rectangle with a 12/12 pitch...vaulted ceiling inside. The zip acts as the vapor barrier. We have very thick walls (14 " I joists) on the outside of our 2x6 zip walls that contain insulation and they get covered with wood fibreboard that connects to the roof. That is our continuous air barrier. On top of that is the actual roof. 2x4s with a nice vented air space. Shingled. My wife has a channel called Tiny Barn Farm, there are a few videos there that give you a glimpse at the house. We are in northern Canada. Cheers!
The trouble with a pitch roof over a flat box is too much uncontrollable air trapped.... Hence the vented attics.
Owner’s bathroom?
you can't use it
Steve, have a look at these hinges this guy has come up with for automotive. I immediately thought of you because there is an architectural application. European style awning windows with exposed hinge which swings tight against weather stripping. th-cam.com/video/Ojo4JbHejAs/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Ego2xe5GbY3PMMf3
Supposition: Adding exterior insulation to your garage will blunt the heat influx due to sunlight, solar radiation. The solar radiation that is not reflected off by the siding will be completely absorbed by the siding and the Zip R surface/OSB, which will get hotter, and, subsequently, the polyiso. will attenuate its conductive flow into the interior. That is, contact flow of energy from the heated wall to the inner air. Some of that heat energy stored in the siding and OSB will also be radiated out in both directions [black body radiation], reducing the inward flow by one-half, and the polyiso. will not attenuate that radiation. Over a summer’s day, you will have reduced the heat flow into the garage and, ultimately, the heat conduction to the living space. So, there are multiple processes sequentially occurring at all of the walls of the structure. I hope you try and get a thermal engineer, not a typical energy consultant, to look at these things and make some estimates. Question on your sheathing design: Are you concerned about mold growth between the garage inner plywood sheathing and the polyiso. side of the Zip R? No one seems concerned about mold growth on the insulated side of Zip R sheathing. Trapped moisture could lead to mold growth on the inner plywood surface. Can mold grow on polyiso? Thanks.
Understood, garage is the North side of the building, keeping heat out in the summer is a good thing. As for polyiso, it is not mold food, however dust/debris on it has the potential, need to make sure its clean upon install. As for moisture on the plywood, it can dry easily to the inside of the garage.
That window detail is 109,000% overkill if you use the right Windows and you install them right all of that is absolutely a waste of time and a waste of money
OK - don't do it
@ been building houses on Long Island on the North Shore and the South Shore close to 40 years and I’ve gone back to home. I built 30 years ago and replace windows and never had an issue and that’s through hurricanes and storms and ocean breeze the hardware in the windows, give out long before that ever fails.
@@fuzion430journey3 OK good - maybe you should post your techniques so we can all learn from someone with such stated experience. I've worked on investigating homes for a significant part of my career and have seen horror shows, my work is in response to my experience
So wait a minute you’re gonna go through all that ridiculous unnecessary nonsense framing in the windows and then you’re gonna use aluminum windows come on man. I thought you were smarter than that.
these windows carry a U-.13-.18 you cmon, I'm pretty smart
That window detail is 109,000% overkill if you use the right Windows and you install them right all of that is absolutely a waste of time and a waste of money
worth a double take.....