Glad I found this video it helped a lot. I was watching another guys videos who said that you he learned what to do from you and he said that you explained how to wire/install the external voltage regulator. Is there another video? I’m trying to go that route with my supercharged 2v because I’m on alternator 3 or 4 now and I’m thinking it’s because of the added heat from the blower and everything else
Maybe the bigger grounds will solve my problem because I’m pushing almost. 500 rwhp and completely overlooked upgrading the grounds but I will buy the alternator with the external voltage regulator as well if it’s not complicated to wire
The video I’ll post below shows the process for the ac compressor - but on the 2003-2004 cobra to remove the inner belt the crank pulley has to come off with a 14mm hex and its reverse thread. I’ll post that video below too th-cam.com/video/q7PbZmnDmDc/w-d-xo.html
Can I go with a 130 amp without doing the big 3 upgrade? I’m at 420 to the wheels factory blower. I believe all stock pullies. Thanks and your patients is on another level!
You should be with a 130amp but I would also do at least the power wire with an inline fuse to be safe. Run that power wire from the alternator directly to the positive battery cable and leave the stock power wire attached as well.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage much appreciated Danny! Thanks for your hard work dude! I haven’t personally done what you do as far as you tube videos go but I do know it’s not as easy as it looks. So, thanks again and I hope you are earning a decent compensation for this. Take care and keep up the hard work!
Thanks , i just ordered the same one as you, a bit expensive but the best option. I saw the connection to the ground cable but i dont know if the red also has to be replaced. Thank you so much for your help always, you have saved me lots of money in the past
Mustang cobra Yes, and that’s where the in-line fuse must go (unless you’re talking about the red wire that goes to the starter from the positive battery terminal. That is fine how it is
Hello Danny, I just install a 200 amp alternator with the addition of the 0 gauge wiring kit into the cobra. When I connected the battery terminals the 2 wires that connects to the black fuse box started melting, so I unplug the battery. I wrapped those 2 wires with electrical tape and I plugged the battery back on, now I have no power, no electricity at all. I can’t figure out the problem. I checked the fuses they all seem to be okay, but I have no electric or power in the whole car. Battery is fine. Any suggestions?
Did the 0 gauge wire have an inline fuse? If so did you check that fuse as well? I would check all grounds as well to see if one burned completely. There is one near the oil filter that goes to the frame. Hopefully it’s not in the junction box
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Yes, the 0 gauge red wire, checked, the inline fuse checked, I will check the grounds next, question, what do you mean by hopefully not in the junction box? Are you talking the black box with the fuses in it? Because the 2 wires that goes to that box are the ones that melted.
@@felixserrano2511 Correct. For this reason I have the power wire going to the battery first so it would take out the battery rather than the junction box. That’s how many of the big 3 kits are instructed to install. If you can’t find a melted wire (power or ground) you’ll have to check each fuse in the junction box (maybe pick up a test light or a multimeter). The multimeter can be set to set continuity th-cam.com/video/PsS-90gB4As/w-d-xo.html
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage thank you very much for that video link I will try the test, unfortunately because of work can’t work on the car till the weekend and those 2 wires that are plugged into that junction box melted when they got red hot and started smoking. Thanks again. I will keep you posted.
Hello Danny, I went to Ford to see if they have the harness that plugs from the alternator to the power distribution box and they told me that part is obsolete. Do you have any idea in how to unplug those wires to the box and also how to remove the box out just to have better access? Thank you very much
I have a cobra 1999 do you think that this will work for my car, or which do you think will work for my car? Please let me know because I have a sound system and the one that I have is not enough I think I need one like yours.
b Aguirre Yes, I would recommend the 170amp or 240amp mechman with the big 3 wire kit as you see in this video- but on the 99 the alternator is on the top side of the engine, much easier to replace, and it will be a different alternator than the 03/04 cobra, so make sure to order the correct one for your car.
They were on the car when I got it. Here is a video I made about the part number. Mine is also a 2004 so it’s screaming yellow 😉 th-cam.com/video/RA8LDbinRj4/w-d-xo.html
Hi Danny..I bought one of those Quick Jacks last year...I just recently tried it on my Cobra...as I’ve used it on my Mini all the time...I have to say that it is a lot easier to lift the car with that instead of a floor jack ....plus it lifts the car two feet..so you can get under there with a creeper...it does get in the way of some things ..but for the most part I find it a very good investment if you are going under your car...they’re about $ 1250.00 to $ 1400.00..bought mine from Costco for $ 1280.00..just thought I’d throw that out there since you like to clean the bottom of your car...any way ..take care...😀😀
So, when installing the big 3 you left the original battery power and ground in place and added the additional 1/0 power and ground? I Installed a sound system a few months ago and my alternator went out today, car only has 25k miles on her. Thanks for the detailed tutorial will definitely save some time.
Yes. It’s no different than adding a few more strands of copper wiring to the new cable. Current always follows the path of least resistance, so as long as the cables are all connected it’s okay
What if you have a 4lb lower pulley? Will this alternator still work? I noticed on the site that it says it will not work with aftermarket alternator pulleys. I was assuming I was going to have to swap my metco alt pulley over since I have a 4lb lower. Don’t want to spend 550 and burn this alt up also. 😿
Hey so great video. Very thorough. I have a couple quick questions for assurity with your project. First I I oi ticked you fully replaced both grounds but why not the original hot wire. I saw you just replaced the alternator hot wire and added it to batt with original one. Is that all you need or a reason to not upgrade the batt hot wire. Secondly if the OG wires get too hot will this burn up an an alternator . Cause I've gone through a few. Lastly what size pulley are you using I put a 3.5 underdrive but not sure if its needed or that helpful. Any info eou lm d be greatly appreciated. Thanks
The power wire is upgraded in this video and has the inline fuse. I left the factory power wire in place so the car’s battery light does not come on. Current will take the path of least resistance so with both wires it’s the same as saying the new wire now has a few more strands in it. The pulley size is stock 2.5” and the Mechman alternator is designed to spin at a higher rpm so it’s ok. The stock alternator is from the v6 mustang with a 5,500rpm redline. It’s possible for any of the components, including the alternator, to burn up if you only have small wires on an upgraded alternator
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage that's what I was leaning towards . And your answer on the hot wire is what I figured I just wanted to make sure. Is there a need in upgrading any of the other wiring that right beside the power wire from batt to the alt. Thos 3 smaller sets of wires that run parallel. I'm not exactly sure what those run to so wanted to ask about those too. I just want to look at all possibilities cause I'm not getting anywhere but this wiring is the next step I guess. Thanks for the reply btw.
Great video Danny however I Changed my alternator and now my battery is over charging. It’s and Lethal performance 200 amp J2 fabrication product. Any suggestions
I would contact their customer service as soon as possible. Others have messaged me with similar issues with J2 fab and said they did not get anywhere. Hopefully they will honor their product
I installed a 200 amp unit today with a wire kit. My kit included battery power to distributer, battery power to alternator, and an engine to chassis ground. Do I need to upgrade battery ground to chassis? The ground wire was clearly not for the battery ground in length, so I assumed it was the engine to chassis(one next to the oil filter).
+Danny Johnson I believe 0 gauge. It's a Justin Wheeler kit. I asked him and he said it's not required and that the factory battery ground is enough. Just looking for a second opinion.
Bmtp27 it's wise to duplicate the ground to be similar or the same as the power side. If you see how small the factory ground is during the video it's pretty obvious it needs to be upgraded. Circuits should be equal on both ends to flow properly. Imagine a stream that's really wide with narrow sections as well. In this case it could produce extra heat and even melt the cable ends. That's why the big 3 kit comes with bigger grounds as well. You might "get away with it" and that's just companies saving some money. PA offers only a bigger power wire as well, but it's just cause you can "get away with it" it doesn't mean it's the best scenario
That's a great idea. People typically change to a 3.2 inch pulley from metco. Its a must if you have a lower crank pulley. As long as it does not effect charging, its fine.
Right now my alternator is dying. I looked around and the good alts are expensive. I use the car as a daily driver and don't push it all the time. Also being in college means I can't buy the expensive alternators. I am thinking about getting the PA Performance 130 AMP alt so that I can get the car moving again and one day be able to get the nice ones. Link to the form I posted: www.svtperformance.com/forums/threads/alternator-questions.1142096/
have you thought about doing the big 4? which is just the big 3 but with another 0 gauge wire running from where the alternator grounds to to the negative terminal on the battery...
Just got the big 3 and the instructions say to keep wire away from heat sources(manifold). Have you had any problems since you installed the ground next to the manifold
Super great and detailed video!🙌 How’s the mechman alternator holding up now? 4years later. I’m thinking of getting one and will follow these steps for it
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage do you have to purchase that as well from them? I’m very new to the car scene but I want to get into it. My alternator on my cobra isn’t supplying enough power when I punch it at times(so I don’t punch it now lol.
@@edwinortiz6583 Yes, you have to have the alternator built that way as well, so you request it when you call them. They will know what you’re talking about. I have some footage I can try to find and put into a video. Also, yes, be very careful with a bad alternator since it can cause the pumps not to get enough power which can lean the engine out without enough fuel and melt a piston
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage ohhh got it! Appreciate your help! And as the second part I believe you talked about it on one of your other videos which is why I’m looking into it. Honestly your videos are super great!
Hey DJ. I plan on adding some future electrical components and I was planning on going with a 200 amp alternator. But if I added the alternator first, would it do any damage? From like overcharging or anything ?
It will be fine and won’t hurt anything as long as you add the big 3 wire upgrade. The regulator will turn it off as needed but you don’t want to overheat the current cables
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage cool! Thank you sir. I'm eventually relocating battery to trunk, Electric water pump, Electric steering , And electric brakes! Again, thank you !
I'm thinking this will be my next mod. I still have the stock alt on my Cobra. I'm thinking of going with the Nations powder coated red 200 amp. You make the install look pretty easy so I'm thinking I will give it a try.
Sheehan Harris B8304170m for the 170 amp www.mechman.com/alternators/ford/mustang/4-6l-dohc-supercharged/2003-2004/s-series-billet-170-amp-03-04-cobra-machined-finish/
Sheehan Harris B8304240m for the 240 amp www.mechman.com/alternators/ford/mustang/4-6l-dohc-supercharged/2003-2004/s-series-billet-240-amp-03-04-cobra-machined-finish/
Hey danny im thinking of buying a larger alternator because i went thro 2 in the same day hahha didnt even race and they went out. What would you reccomend? My car has about 520 WHP
Mustang cobra I would look into either Nations with the external regulator or the mechman with external regulator (you have to call in and ask for it by request). Mine is a 240amp which is a bit overkill, but I also have a sound system and wanted enough power for any future modifications. The 170-200amp range is fine, but you’ll want the big 3 wire kit as shown in this video
Great content bud, I'am getting ready to do this big 3 upgrade as well. I purchased the J2fab 180 amp alternator and cable kit, I've been checking out a few big 3 installs and I noticed minor differences on where the big red fused cable gets connected on our cars. In the video, yours went from alternator to the battery, I've seen others connect to the distribution box. Are their various ways to do this install? Really appreciate your input.
The instructions from mechman and some others advise to connect to the battery so you never melt the junction box. It’s better to lose a battery than your entire fuse box system should something go wrong
Excellent video. I have replaced more alternators than imaginable. I am a pro at it now. It's the only reason I have ever contemplated selling the car. I currently have a nation auto alternator with an external regulator. It's a nice unit but I'm on my second regulator and it's giving me problems too. The Mechman looks really nice. I will try it. Have you had good luck so far? How many miles do you have on this setup?
03 Cobra so far it's been perfect- not sure if they put a little more into the 240 amp or if it's running great because of the big 3. However- I only have about 1,000 weekend miles on it since the car only sees weekend, great weather activity. I hear you though- this car had a Reman on it, so it must have had issues as well, then that one went. I haven't had issues yet, but going turbo just to get away from the alternator went into my mind lol. My Mach 1 never has had an issue, so I think the placement of the alternator so close to the exhaust takes a huge toll on it (and the factory one is a crappy v6 mustang 105/110 amp one too).
You should try the tubing mod. Basically, you buy some some tubing ( i think i have a part #) and attach it to hole next to driver side fog light and run it to the alternator. Point it to the regulator on the alternator and now the your alternator is getting fed cool air when driving. Also, if you have an intake that exits through the fender wall, you can do the same thing only instead of running the tube to the alternator you'll run it to the fender and point it toward the intake. BUT be careful if you daily drive your cobra just in case it rains.
I have this same set up and it's making a squeak ..Checked out some forums and you tube channels .. Some ppl say it's the alternator specifically nations ..One said the altenator maybe off and need some adjustment .. Causing the belt to squeak .Would any one point me in the right direction.. Thank you
Ray Ramos I'd make sure the pulley is on tight, but also not too tight as that could also damage the bearing. If you can verify its the alternator making the squeak I'd contact the manufacture who may replace it under warranty it have some advice. Did you say yours is nations or mechman?
Glad I found this video it helped a lot. I was watching another guys videos who said that you he learned what to do from you and he said that you explained how to wire/install the external voltage regulator. Is there another video? I’m trying to go that route with my supercharged 2v because I’m on alternator 3 or 4 now and I’m thinking it’s because of the added heat from the blower and everything else
Maybe the bigger grounds will solve my problem because I’m pushing almost. 500 rwhp and completely overlooked upgrading the grounds but I will buy the alternator with the external voltage regulator as well if it’s not complicated to wire
We did the external on my brother’s cobra but he did some of the work without me, so I didn’t get enough footage for a video.
How to change the accesory belt and get the a/c compressor off?
The video I’ll post below shows the process for the ac compressor - but on the 2003-2004 cobra to remove the inner belt the crank pulley has to come off with a 14mm hex and its reverse thread. I’ll post that video below too th-cam.com/video/q7PbZmnDmDc/w-d-xo.html
03-04 cobra supercharger crank pulley th-cam.com/video/1JYtqYm8v3U/w-d-xo.html
Can I go with a 130 amp without doing the big 3 upgrade? I’m at 420 to the wheels factory blower. I believe all stock pullies. Thanks and your patients is on another level!
You should be with a 130amp but I would also do at least the power wire with an inline fuse to be safe. Run that power wire from the alternator directly to the positive battery cable and leave the stock power wire attached as well.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage much appreciated Danny! Thanks for your hard work dude! I haven’t personally done what you do as far as you tube videos go but I do know it’s not as easy as it looks. So, thanks again and I hope you are earning a decent compensation for this. Take care and keep up the hard work!
Love how you’re so calm the whole time. I would be cursing like crazy LOL
Jermaine Hemphill lol
You just helped me replace my alternator myself I have the exact same yellow one you do awesome car thanks for the video
So if the Amp is under 200 you wouldn't necessarily need the big wire kit?
Factory is 110, so I’d say any larger Like a 170 at least do a power wire with inline fuse, and the big 3 at or higher than 170
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage ok thanks I'm about put a 170 on and I did get the power wire with the fuse
What size belt did you use? The same one?
I did the big three Also changed the alternator to a 200 amp. Your video was amazing. It worked out very well for me
Thanks for the comment. I’m glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks , i just ordered the same one as you, a bit expensive but the best option. I saw the connection to the ground cable but i dont know if the red also has to be replaced. Thank you so much for your help always, you have saved me lots of money in the past
Mustang cobra Great to hear that. Thanks for watching my videos
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage do you know if the red wire needs to be replaced as well?
Mustang cobra Yes, and that’s where the in-line fuse must go (unless you’re talking about the red wire that goes to the starter from the positive battery terminal. That is fine how it is
Hello Danny, I just install a 200 amp alternator with the addition of the 0 gauge wiring kit into the cobra. When I connected the battery terminals the 2 wires that connects to the black fuse box started melting, so I unplug the battery. I wrapped those 2 wires with electrical tape and I plugged the battery back on, now I have no power, no electricity at all. I can’t figure out the problem. I checked the fuses they all seem to be okay, but I have no electric or power in the whole car. Battery is fine. Any suggestions?
Did the 0 gauge wire have an inline fuse? If so did you check that fuse as well? I would check all grounds as well to see if one burned completely. There is one near the oil filter that goes to the frame. Hopefully it’s not in the junction box
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Yes, the 0 gauge red wire, checked, the inline fuse checked, I will check the grounds next, question, what do you mean by hopefully not in the junction box? Are you talking the black box with the fuses in it? Because the 2 wires that goes to that box are the ones that melted.
@@felixserrano2511 Correct. For this reason I have the power wire going to the battery first so it would take out the battery rather than the junction box. That’s how many of the big 3 kits are instructed to install. If you can’t find a melted wire (power or ground) you’ll have to check each fuse in the junction box (maybe pick up a test light or a multimeter). The multimeter can be set to set continuity th-cam.com/video/PsS-90gB4As/w-d-xo.html
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage thank you very much for that video link I will try the test, unfortunately because of work can’t work on the car till the weekend and those 2 wires that are plugged into that junction box melted when they got red hot and started smoking. Thanks again. I will keep you posted.
Hello Danny, I went to Ford to see if they have the harness that plugs from the alternator to the power distribution box and they told me that part is obsolete. Do you have any idea in how to unplug those wires to the box and also how to remove the box out just to have better access? Thank you very much
Great video. Helped me install my new alternator and the power wire! 💯👌
I have a cobra 1999 do you think that this will work for my car, or which do you think will work for my car? Please let me know because I have a sound system and the one that I have is not enough I think I need one like yours.
b Aguirre Yes, I would recommend the 170amp or 240amp mechman with the big 3 wire kit as you see in this video- but on the 99 the alternator is on the top side of the engine, much easier to replace, and it will be a different alternator than the 03/04 cobra, so make sure to order the correct one for your car.
Ok thanks
It is normal fo?r the alternator to get too hot
yes, because it’s located near the exhaust, unfortunately
To be clear, normal means it happens, but its not good lol
Danny I love those blue valve covers on your zinc yellow cobra did you buy those and if you did wear or did you paint them yourself
They were on the car when I got it. Here is a video I made about the part number. Mine is also a 2004 so it’s screaming yellow 😉 th-cam.com/video/RA8LDbinRj4/w-d-xo.html
hello, I'm trying to connect my mack man alternator but it comes with a blue wire, I do not know where it's going, you have some idea of th
What year? 03/04 cobra?
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage 04
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage the connector came with a long blue wire
Did you ever find out where the blue wire goes? Im having voltage issues
Great video bro! I couldn't figure it out. Removing the alt. Bracket....lol I was cussing out every hose because it couldn't get it out. THANKS AGAIN!
Thanks for watching! Glad it helped!!!
Hi Danny..I bought one of those Quick Jacks last year...I just recently tried it on my Cobra...as I’ve used it on my Mini all the time...I have to say that it is a lot easier to lift the car with that instead of a floor jack ....plus it lifts the car two feet..so you can get under there with a creeper...it does get in the way of some things ..but for the most part I find it a very good investment if you are going under your car...they’re about $ 1250.00 to $ 1400.00..bought mine from Costco for $ 1280.00..just thought I’d throw that out there since you like to clean the bottom of your car...any way ..take care...😀😀
So, when installing the big 3 you left the original battery power and ground in place and added the additional 1/0 power and ground?
I Installed a sound system a few months ago and my alternator went out today, car only has 25k miles on her. Thanks for the detailed tutorial will definitely save some time.
Yes. It’s no different than adding a few more strands of copper wiring to the new cable. Current always follows the path of least resistance, so as long as the cables are all connected it’s okay
What if you have a 4lb lower pulley? Will this alternator still work? I noticed on the site that it says it will not work with aftermarket alternator pulleys. I was assuming I was going to have to swap my metco alt pulley over since I have a 4lb lower. Don’t want to spend 550 and burn this alt up also. 😿
Where did you get your tensioner from?
I got it used but if you Google thump rrr you’ll find it (I believe lethal performance also sells it)
Hey so great video. Very thorough. I have a couple quick questions for assurity with your project. First I I oi ticked you fully replaced both grounds but why not the original hot wire. I saw you just replaced the alternator hot wire and added it to batt with original one. Is that all you need or a reason to not upgrade the batt hot wire. Secondly if the OG wires get too hot will this burn up an an alternator . Cause I've gone through a few. Lastly what size pulley are you using I put a 3.5 underdrive but not sure if its needed or that helpful. Any info eou lm d be greatly appreciated. Thanks
The power wire is upgraded in this video and has the inline fuse. I left the factory power wire in place so the car’s battery light does not come on. Current will take the path of least resistance so with both wires it’s the same as saying the new wire now has a few more strands in it.
The pulley size is stock 2.5” and the Mechman alternator is designed to spin at a higher rpm so it’s ok. The stock alternator is from the v6 mustang with a 5,500rpm redline.
It’s possible for any of the components, including the alternator, to burn up if you only have small wires on an upgraded alternator
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage that's what I was leaning towards . And your answer on the hot wire is what I figured I just wanted to make sure. Is there a need in upgrading any of the other wiring that right beside the power wire from batt to the alt. Thos 3 smaller sets of wires that run parallel. I'm not exactly sure what those run to so wanted to ask about those too. I just want to look at all possibilities cause I'm not getting anywhere but this wiring is the next step I guess. Thanks for the reply btw.
Great video Danny however I Changed my alternator and now my battery is over charging. It’s and Lethal performance 200 amp J2 fabrication product. Any suggestions
I would contact their customer service as soon as possible. Others have messaged me with similar issues with J2 fab and said they did not get anywhere. Hopefully they will honor their product
14.7 volts
I installed a 200 amp unit today with a wire kit. My kit included battery power to distributer, battery power to alternator, and an engine to chassis ground. Do I need to upgrade battery ground to chassis? The ground wire was clearly not for the battery ground in length, so I assumed it was the engine to chassis(one next to the oil filter).
Bmtp27 do you know what gauge wire it is?
+Danny Johnson I believe 0 gauge. It's a Justin Wheeler kit. I asked him and he said it's not required and that the factory battery ground is enough. Just looking for a second opinion.
Bmtp27 it's wise to duplicate the ground to be similar or the same as the power side. If you see how small the factory ground is during the video it's pretty obvious it needs to be upgraded. Circuits should be equal on both ends to flow properly. Imagine a stream that's really wide with narrow sections as well. In this case it could produce extra heat and even melt the cable ends. That's why the big 3 kit comes with bigger grounds as well. You might "get away with it" and that's just companies saving some money. PA offers only a bigger power wire as well, but it's just cause you can "get away with it" it doesn't mean it's the best scenario
Very nice video. Thanks.
krisachar thank you for the comment. Glad you enjoyed the video
What is your take on changing the alternator pulley size. Bigger so it spins slower and prevents overspinning.
That's a great idea. People typically change to a 3.2 inch pulley from metco. Its a must if you have a lower crank pulley. As long as it does not effect charging, its fine.
Right now my alternator is dying. I looked around and the good alts are expensive. I use the car as a daily driver and don't push it all the time. Also being in college means I can't buy the expensive alternators. I am thinking about getting the PA Performance 130 AMP alt so that I can get the car moving again and one day be able to get the nice ones.
Link to the form I posted:
www.svtperformance.com/forums/threads/alternator-questions.1142096/
TheSVT03Cobra that's should do the trick
have you thought about doing the big 4? which is just the big 3 but with another 0 gauge wire running from where the alternator grounds to to the negative terminal on the battery...
I have a 0 gauge coming to the negative post already, so it would probably have to tie in
Just got the big 3 and the instructions say to keep wire away from heat sources(manifold). Have you had any problems since you installed the ground next to the manifold
Theyoungps It’s been good so far. You can try to zip tie it out of the way the best you can
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage thanks for the reply and you also left all original ground on the car correct?
Theyoungps Yeah, you can also keep the old ones in place
Super great and detailed video!🙌 How’s the mechman alternator holding up now? 4years later. I’m thinking of getting one and will follow these steps for it
It is still doing great. I would ask them for the external regulator when you order. It is a big regulator, but it keeps it away from the heat
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage do you have to purchase that as well from them? I’m very new to the car scene but I want to get into it. My alternator on my cobra isn’t supplying enough power when I punch it at times(so I don’t punch it now lol.
@@edwinortiz6583 Yes, you have to have the alternator built that way as well, so you request it when you call them. They will know what you’re talking about. I have some footage I can try to find and put into a video.
Also, yes, be very careful with a bad alternator since it can cause the pumps not to get enough power which can lean the engine out without enough fuel and melt a piston
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage ohhh got it! Appreciate your help!
And as the second part I believe you talked about it on one of your other videos which is why I’m looking into it. Honestly your videos are super great!
Hey DJ.
I plan on adding some future electrical components and I was planning on going with a 200 amp alternator. But if I added the alternator first, would it do any damage? From like overcharging or anything ?
It will be fine and won’t hurt anything as long as you add the big 3 wire upgrade. The regulator will turn it off as needed but you don’t want to overheat the current cables
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage cool!
Thank you sir. I'm eventually relocating battery to trunk,
Electric water pump,
Electric steering ,
And electric brakes!
Again, thank you !
John Baker Sounds like a good project!
I'm thinking this will be my next mod. I still have the stock alt on my Cobra. I'm thinking of going with the Nations powder coated red 200 amp. You make the install look pretty easy so I'm thinking I will give it a try.
Maximum Carnage Make sure to also do the big 3 as shown here for the 200amp. Let me know if you have questions along the way.
Danny Johnson will do. I owe my 01/99 cobra tail lights install to you. Love the content you and your brother put out.
danny: where did you purchase the wiring terminals?
m s delcity.com
Danny Johnson thanks
What size holes?
0 guage?
Can I get the part number for the Mechman alternator?
Sheehan Harris B8304170m for the 170 amp www.mechman.com/alternators/ford/mustang/4-6l-dohc-supercharged/2003-2004/s-series-billet-170-amp-03-04-cobra-machined-finish/
Sheehan Harris B8304240m for the 240 amp www.mechman.com/alternators/ford/mustang/4-6l-dohc-supercharged/2003-2004/s-series-billet-240-amp-03-04-cobra-machined-finish/
Hey danny im thinking of buying a larger alternator because i went thro 2 in the same day hahha didnt even race and they went out. What would you reccomend? My car has about 520 WHP
Mustang cobra I would look into either Nations with the external regulator or the mechman with external regulator (you have to call in and ask for it by request). Mine is a 240amp which is a bit overkill, but I also have a sound system and wanted enough power for any future modifications. The 170-200amp range is fine, but you’ll want the big 3 wire kit as shown in this video
Great content bud, I'am getting ready to do this big 3 upgrade as well. I purchased the J2fab 180 amp alternator and cable kit, I've been checking out a few big 3 installs and I noticed minor differences on where the big red fused cable gets connected on our cars. In the video, yours went from alternator to the battery, I've seen others connect to the distribution box. Are their various ways to do this install? Really appreciate your input.
The instructions from mechman and some others advise to connect to the battery so you never melt the junction box. It’s better to lose a battery than your entire fuse box system should something go wrong
Looks like the heat shrink they gave you was a little bit too big. Great video nonetheless!
Yes, it was a little big ha ha. I wrapped it in electrical tape as well
any issues so far with the mechman ?
Nothing so far.
definitely need this video thanks man
Excellent video. I have replaced more alternators than imaginable. I am a pro at it now. It's the only reason I have ever contemplated selling the car. I currently have a nation auto alternator with an external regulator. It's a nice unit but I'm on my second regulator and it's giving me problems too. The Mechman looks really nice. I will try it. Have you had good luck so far? How many miles do you have on this setup?
03 Cobra so far it's been perfect- not sure if they put a little more into the 240 amp or if it's running great because of the big 3. However- I only have about 1,000 weekend miles on it since the car only sees weekend, great weather activity. I hear you though- this car had a Reman on it, so it must have had issues as well, then that one went. I haven't had issues yet, but going turbo just to get away from the alternator went into my mind lol. My Mach 1 never has had an issue, so I think the placement of the alternator so close to the exhaust takes a huge toll on it (and the factory one is a crappy v6 mustang 105/110 amp one too).
You should try the tubing mod. Basically, you buy some some tubing ( i think i have a part #) and attach it to hole next to driver side fog light and run it to the alternator. Point it to the regulator on the alternator and now the your alternator is getting fed cool air when driving.
Also, if you have an intake that exits through the fender wall, you can do the same thing only instead of running the tube to the alternator you'll run it to the fender and point it toward the intake. BUT be careful if you daily drive your cobra just in case it rains.
racequad9 very nice. Yes, I've seen people use the brake duct setup to cool the alternator. Great idea
Hey man. Just curious. How many miles are on your Terminator?
42,000
+Scrun Johnson are you a member of the SVTPerformance forum? If so, what is your name on there?
+Soapstreet xsellr8 on SVTP and SYCOBRASVT on Instagram. Danny Johnson on Facebook
I have this same set up and it's making a squeak ..Checked out some forums and you tube channels .. Some ppl say it's the alternator specifically nations ..One said the altenator maybe off and need some adjustment .. Causing the belt to squeak .Would any one point me in the right direction.. Thank you
Ray Ramos I'd make sure the pulley is on tight, but also not too tight as that could also damage the bearing. If you can verify its the alternator making the squeak I'd contact the manufacture who may replace it under warranty it have some advice. Did you say yours is nations or mechman?
Where did you purchase the alternator, direct from Mechman or a retailer? You and your brother should be sponsored by some company by now:)
Thank you. I bought if from someone who sells for them. His name is Steve Winn on facebook
Than you that helps tons
Great info man!!
MartinAv_ Official Glad you enjoyed the video 😉
Danny Johnson hell yeah & im not even done watching 🤣🙏🏼