Those one piece metal and rubber oil pan gaskets are the best ever,buy the valve cover ones also,i changed these over 10 years ago and have no leaks at all,cork sucks bad,also on the lower intake always use those blue rubber gaskets, you have no worries of that damn cork sliding when your bedding the lower intake.
I didn’t get a gasket with my oil pump a lot of people don’t use them but just curious if I should use some rtv on it I got it all cleaned up so no old gasket material
I personally use the gasket, I have never just used silicone. Some people do, but I have always used the correct gasket. If you need any assistance with the missing part, please shoot us over your order number and we will be happy to look into this one for you. lmr.com/contact
I have a 1987 Mustang LX w/ 5.0L. Is its oil level sensor more prone to leak where the electrical wires enter the back of it (at the hex head) than from the large washer-like gasket against the pan? I don't see any wires shown in the picture of the oil level sensor that you sell for my car. It's hard to tell... does the sensor accept a plug that's attached to the wires on my car? If so, does the sensor you sell have a seal for the electrical plug within it? One more thing I'm curious about. I bought my car new in 1987, and I got under my car last night... I didn't see a clip in that slot that's on the hex head of the sensor. Does the clip come with the sensor that you sell? Thanks. BTW, I'm in the middle of installing an alternator upgrade kit and a battery tray & cable kit I bought from you guys recently.
I've seen the leak occur from the gasket, and never the connector. The sensor accepts an electrical connection that is located within the o2 sensor harness. It could be that a previous owner cut the pigtail. This is common. The sensor is a sealed unit which means the electrical connector does not act like a seal. The gasket is the only thing that "seals" the sensor. Here is a link to another video that covers the oil level sensor, gasket, and pigtail in greater detail: th-cam.com/video/AJAsFZtfjuo/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared Hope this helps! Thank you for your business. -Landan
I tell you a funny story,i have 2 of these cars,Ive been driving both for like 20 something years, one time i decided i was gonna replace the oil pump on one since i needed to do some work under it, i figure nothing to it, i raised the engine and then raised it some more, it was not giving up that pan,i got so mad i just pulled the whole K member from under it,springs, you name it,i showed that pan who was boss,lol, kidding aside you are correct, they are a major pain to remove with the engine in the car.
Yes, but the retainer will have to be removed, negating its design of keeping the driveshaft in place if the distributor has to be removed. You'll run the risk of dropping the driveshaft in the pan if the retainer is removed.
First, why did you install a high-volume oil pump? What are the specs on the engine? If the engine is close to stock, a high-volume pump isn't needed. If you do feel like you have to run it, a 7qt pan with a deeper front sump is strongly recommended because of the flow rate. -Landan
Why do you need a new pan ? Especially if it’s stock replacement . I just need to oil pan gasket . Because I’m doing my timing chain cover gasket and I refuse to use cork half ass job
Hi Karl, All available engine gaskets are available on our site with the link below: lmr.com/products/79-93-Mustang-Gaskets If there is a gasket that you are not seeing on our site, please give us a call at 1-866-507-3786 or email us with the link below: lmr.com/contact
@@latemodelrestorationhey late model resto! What is the recommended distance between the oil pump pickup tube and the bottom of the oil pan? Thanks in advance
@@latemodelrestoration I will be purchasing EFI and other stuff from LMR. And to be honest I really want to open the eyes to the LS swap people and introduce them to the Cleveland.....
@Emerald lx that is a great plan, it just there are sure a lot of people with brand new gt350's that use oil and it is in factory Ford spes 3-4 quarts is A ok...… I find that too weird. beautiful car and maybe in future they wont use oil.
Wow... You use all this ARP hardware, but you dont even use the most important part! What about ARP main studs? Those are way more important than using ARP oil pan studs.
Ford 302/351 Engine Build Playlist:
th-cam.com/play/PLMti2eKQ3th8mkK8kZi5Z3VvCwqF0cRM1.html
Homeboy just used a universal on a torque wrench
Those one piece metal and rubber oil pan gaskets are the best ever,buy the valve cover ones also,i changed these over 10 years ago and have no leaks at all,cork sucks bad,also on the lower intake always use those blue rubber gaskets, you have no worries of that damn cork sliding when your bedding the lower intake.
This was an awesomely filmed tutorial in all honesty. Good job guys.
Thank you!
This is why i love owning a fox! Everything is so simple to do.
Rumeeezyy looks so easy lol
Got a 90 GT Convertible some parts are a pain in the but.
Great video. Rebuilding a 351 for my 91 F150 and I have found several of your videos to be very helpful. Thanks!
Thank you for support us.
im sure this will get lost in the old forum but is the star piece needed? When i took apart the old motor it didnt have a star to hold the pump shaft
I didn’t get a gasket with my oil pump a lot of people don’t use them but just curious if I should use some rtv on it I got it all cleaned up so no old gasket material
I personally use the gasket, I have never just used silicone. Some people do, but I have always used the correct gasket. If you need any assistance with the missing part, please shoot us over your order number and we will be happy to look into this one for you.
lmr.com/contact
I have a 1987 Mustang LX w/ 5.0L. Is its oil level sensor more prone to leak where the electrical wires enter the back of it (at the hex head) than from the large washer-like gasket against the pan? I don't see any wires shown in the picture of the oil level sensor that you sell for my car. It's hard to tell... does the sensor accept a plug that's attached to the wires on my car? If so, does the sensor you sell have a seal for the electrical plug within it? One more thing I'm curious about. I bought my car new in 1987, and I got under my car last night... I didn't see a clip in that slot that's on the hex head of the sensor. Does the clip come with the sensor that you sell? Thanks. BTW, I'm in the middle of installing an alternator upgrade kit and a battery tray & cable kit I bought from you guys recently.
I've seen the leak occur from the gasket, and never the connector. The sensor accepts an electrical connection that is located within the o2 sensor harness. It could be that a previous owner cut the pigtail. This is common.
The sensor is a sealed unit which means the electrical connector does not act like a seal. The gasket is the only thing that "seals" the sensor.
Here is a link to another video that covers the oil level sensor, gasket, and pigtail in greater detail: th-cam.com/video/AJAsFZtfjuo/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared
Hope this helps! Thank you for your business. -Landan
Where can I get a one piece gasket for 351 Cleveland?
The oil pan is not easy when it’s in the Fox
I tell you a funny story,i have 2 of these cars,Ive been driving both for like 20 something years, one time i decided i was gonna replace the oil pump on one since i needed to do some work under it, i figure nothing to it, i raised the engine and then raised it some more, it was not giving up that pan,i got so mad i just pulled the whole K member from under it,springs, you name it,i showed that pan who was boss,lol, kidding aside you are correct, they are a major pain to remove with the engine in the car.
can you install the oil pump drive shaft through the distributer hole?
Yes, but the retainer will have to be removed, negating its design of keeping the driveshaft in place if the distributor has to be removed. You'll run the risk of dropping the driveshaft in the pan if the retainer is removed.
@@latemodelrestoration thanks for the reply
Your videos are very helpful. Thanks LMR.
Thanks you so much for the generous feedback! -Landan
Installed a high flow melling oil pump but it’s hitting my oil pan on my sn95? Do I need a deeper oil pan or should it fit?
First, why did you install a high-volume oil pump? What are the specs on the engine? If the engine is close to stock, a high-volume pump isn't needed. If you do feel like you have to run it, a 7qt pan with a deeper front sump is strongly recommended because of the flow rate. -Landan
Why do you need a new pan ? Especially if it’s stock replacement . I just need to oil pan gasket . Because I’m doing my timing chain cover gasket and I refuse to use cork half ass job
if you have a stroker you will need a new oil pan or else you probably will run into issues.
Hi Guys, Great Tutorial. Do you have the Product code for the 302 Cleveland rubber gasket? I cannot find one anywhere. Thanks.
Hi Karl,
All available engine gaskets are available on our site with the link below: lmr.com/products/79-93-Mustang-Gaskets
If there is a gasket that you are not seeing on our site, please give us a call at 1-866-507-3786 or email us with the link below: lmr.com/contact
@@latemodelrestorationhey late model resto! What is the recommended distance between the oil pump pickup tube and the bottom of the oil pan? Thanks in advance
@@therealunknown123. I'm sure there are multiple opinions out there, but I've always seen and have used a minimum of .25" and a maximum .375". -Landan
Would a shorter oil pickup tube from other 302's work with this pan?
I've never had the pan off. On a stock 95 cobra, does it use studes already?
Nice, I'm looking for an oil pump pickup screen. #EOTE 6622-KA. HELP!!!!.Have a great day
We sell oil pump pickup tubes. Link below. -Landan
lmr.com/products/94-04-Mustang-Oil-Pump-Components
yall advertise only for the fox body but I'm about to rebuild a 5.0 Bronco with these parts
We just recently released that we now offer OBS Bronco parts. This video is from 9 years ago, before we ever discussed brancing out to the Bronco.
@latemodelrestoration yes I see the 92 - 96 bronco parts but I'm building an 89 bronco.
Sweet!! Diggin it
I am putting a 3514v Cleveland with a 4 bolt main in my 91 LX, superior engine.
NICE CHOICE!
@@latemodelrestoration I will be purchasing EFI and other stuff from LMR. And to be honest I really want to open the eyes to the LS swap people and introduce them to the Cleveland.....
@Emerald lx that is a great plan, it just there are sure a lot of people with brand new gt350's that use oil and it is in factory Ford spes 3-4 quarts is A ok...… I find that too weird. beautiful car and maybe in future they wont use oil.
Will this oil pan on a late model engine fit in a early model car ?. I have a 68 ford Torino I’m putting a 85 302 in
Gregory - I'm not 100% sure. I would recommend digging around on some forums or Facebook groups to see what other folks are doing. -Landan
Seth Rogan's little brother is very informative.
Wow... You use all this ARP hardware, but you dont even use the most important part! What about ARP main studs? Those are way more important than using ARP oil pan studs.
ScreamingGoat43 need to hook on line to turbo on a 302 ford motor need to hook or line to a 302 motor
This is crap most people have to do this while engines in the car..baby's can do it this way