Exploring and finally fixing this error. Saved a good machine using a $2 part. Thanks to Pat who helped me figure it out. Hope this is helpful to others.
Good job on the diagnosis, repair and video! One nitpick is that at ~10:20 into the video it was stated that the 250v/10a spec was to "withstand voltage drop". In fact any voltage drop across the device would be very small and irrelevant. The 250v/10a spec is the rated capacity of the device to safely transport and switch that voltage / amperage without internal arcing or burning. One thing that could have been done as part of the diagnosis was to simply jumper the two connection points of the thermostat with a 14 gauge wire with ample water in the tank to temporarily bypass the protection device and observing that the steam function worked prior to buying the part. For these type of thermostat protection devices the 250v/10a rating typically increases the amp limit value to 15a when the voltage is lowered to 120v. If you connected a qualified multimeter between the two thermostat connections (with thermostat disconnected) and set it to measure amps you would have seen the actual amperage that the heating element pulls when the steam function is activated. Since the oven is spec'd at 1800 watts (ohms law: watts / volts = amps) or 15 amps overall and that includes the larger main oven heating elements, the current pulled by the water / steam generation heater is almost certainly going to be less than 5 amps.
Hi- I have an interesting problem. I followed these directions, but, the steam--even though it works now--doesn't seem to be entering the main oven itself where the food is placed. What did I do wrong? Thanks.
Thank you! Awesome diagnosis and helpful video. And thanks to your friend Pat too. We had the same issue "Add Water" even though there was water. Cleaning did not help. Checking the resistance (Ohms) of the sensor (not difficult while inside the unit with cover off) revealed it was open (~infinite resistance). Given the gauge of the wires through the sensor I seriously doubt that it directly controls the current flow into the heater. I strongly suspect there is a low current/voltage logic circuit that tests the sensor's state (open or close) and that controls a relay that turns the heating element on or off. I'm pretty sure I can hear a relay click when the steam function is engaged.
I fixed mine few years ago by cleaning the gunk in the hose conecting to the water heater. By removing the gunk in the hose, the water can get through to the water heater. You can tell the conneting hose is stuck if the water reservoir has no bubble coming out even though you filled the water reservoir.
I have water dripping from the bottom when I use the steam. I already de-calcified it by steaming the vinegar water for a couple of times. Some of the calcium debris are gone. But looks like water still drips from the bottom sometimes. Should I buy a new one?
@@jasminelai9459 It happens to me once in a while but I don't know why. Did you drain the water from the hole in the back of the oven before? Make sure to put the cover back and check if the water reservoir sits properly. If the oven is still under warranty (3 years), take it to the service centre. They might just give you a new one instead of fixing it (I have got my oven replaced in Canada).
Thanks for the video. Bought the same part and filed down the leads to fit the wire, and was able to fix the oven! After a few weeks, i saw a spark while trying to steam bake, and the oven totally died with no power. Any idea if there's a fuse or something to replace? THanks
Thank you for the advice. I replaced the thermal fuse and it works. Now I have another issue. There is water leaking from the cover of the water tank when the water is heated up. Any suggestions to fix it. I tried to caulk around the cover but without results.
I think that this is somewhat normal - I suspect it's one of the ways that so much calcium builds up to begin with. Is it a lot of water, or is most of it still reaching the inside of the oven?
I have water dripping from the bottom when I use the steam. I already de-calcified it by steaming the vinegar water for a couple of times. Some of the calcium debris are gone. But looks like water still drips from the bottom sometimes. Should I buy a new one?
I have water dripping from the bottom when I use the steam. I already de-calcified it by steaming the vinegar water for a couple of times. Some of the calcium debris are gone. But looks like water still drips from the bottom sometimes. Should I buy a new one?
Hi, thank you so much for posting this. This is my second steam oven. First one broke I tried to decalcified didn’t work so I got another one second handed and now same problem again. But when I open up to thermostat part it was so rusted I can’t unscrew it out and I just use a plier and yank it out. I’m just not sure if replacing a new thermostat if it would work base on how rusted it is? I wish I can attach a picture here :(
Thanks for this video! Encountering a similar (if not the same) problem right now. Could you please advise as to the replacement product you used around 10:00?
Looks like Ellen found it already. Note that the 250v/10a had prong connectors that were a touch too wide and I needed to grind them with a dremel to make them the right width.
Thanks for the video. Bought the same part and filed down the leads to fit the wire, and was able to fix the oven! After a few weeks, i saw a spark while trying to steam bake, and the oven totally died with no power. Any idea if there's a fuse or capacitor or something to replace? THanks
Good job on the diagnosis, repair and video! One nitpick is that at ~10:20 into the video it was stated that the 250v/10a spec was to "withstand voltage drop". In fact any voltage drop across the device would be very small and irrelevant.
The 250v/10a spec is the rated capacity of the device to safely transport and switch that voltage / amperage without internal arcing or burning. One thing that could have been done as part of the diagnosis was to simply jumper the two connection points of the thermostat with a 14 gauge wire with ample water in the tank to temporarily bypass the protection device and observing that the steam function worked prior to buying the part.
For these type of thermostat protection devices the 250v/10a rating typically increases the amp limit value to 15a when the voltage is lowered to 120v.
If you connected a qualified multimeter between the two thermostat connections (with thermostat disconnected) and set it to measure amps you would have seen the actual amperage that the heating element pulls when the steam function is activated. Since the oven is spec'd at 1800 watts (ohms law: watts / volts = amps) or 15 amps overall and that includes the larger main oven heating elements, the current pulled by the water / steam generation heater is almost certainly going to be less than 5 amps.
Hi- I have an interesting problem. I followed these directions, but, the steam--even though it works now--doesn't seem to be entering the main oven itself where the food is placed. What did I do wrong? Thanks.
Thanks for the video! I had to drill a new mounting hole for the new thermal component, but this video was absolutely spot on for the repair.
I am going to try this. Thank you! It has been over a year since you posted this so hope they still have those parts.
Thank you! Awesome diagnosis and helpful video. And thanks to your friend Pat too. We had the same issue "Add Water" even though there was water. Cleaning did not help. Checking the resistance (Ohms) of the sensor (not difficult while inside the unit with cover off) revealed it was open (~infinite resistance). Given the gauge of the wires through the sensor I seriously doubt that it directly controls the current flow into the heater. I strongly suspect there is a low current/voltage logic circuit that tests the sensor's state (open or close) and that controls a relay that turns the heating element on or off. I'm pretty sure I can hear a relay click when the steam function is engaged.
Thank you sooo muuchh!!! I fixed my oven today just for $10 because of you!!!
I fixed mine few years ago by cleaning the gunk in the hose conecting to the water heater. By removing the gunk in the hose, the water can get through to the water heater. You can tell the conneting hose is stuck if the water reservoir has no bubble coming out even though you filled the water reservoir.
I have water dripping from the bottom when I use the steam. I already de-calcified it by steaming the vinegar water for a couple of times. Some of the calcium debris are gone. But looks like water still drips from the bottom sometimes. Should I buy a new one?
@@jasminelai9459 It happens to me once in a while but I don't know why. Did you drain the water from the hole in the back of the oven before? Make sure to put the cover back and check if the water reservoir sits properly.
If the oven is still under warranty (3 years), take it to the service centre. They might just give you a new one instead of fixing it (I have got my oven replaced in Canada).
Thanks for the video. Bought the same part and filed down the leads to fit the wire, and was able to fix the oven!
After a few weeks, i saw a spark while trying to steam bake, and the oven totally died with no power. Any idea if there's a fuse or something to replace? THanks
Fantastic replaced and it work!
Thank you, I fixed mine today 🎉so happy
Appreciate the help! this worked for me!
Having the same/similar issue so Thank you for the video and link to part. I will give it a try soon!
Solved my problem. Thank you!
Thank you for the advice. I replaced the thermal fuse and it works. Now I have another issue. There is water leaking from the cover of the water tank when the water is heated up. Any suggestions to fix it. I tried to caulk around the cover but without results.
I think that this is somewhat normal - I suspect it's one of the ways that so much calcium builds up to begin with. Is it a lot of water, or is most of it still reaching the inside of the oven?
I have water dripping from the bottom when I use the steam. I already de-calcified it by steaming the vinegar water for a couple of times. Some of the calcium debris are gone. But looks like water still drips from the bottom sometimes. Should I buy a new one?
Any idea how to take the back panel off of the cso-300?
I have water dripping from the bottom when I use the steam. I already de-calcified it by steaming the vinegar water for a couple of times. Some of the calcium debris are gone. But looks like water still drips from the bottom sometimes. Should I buy a new one?
This normally closed or normally open?
It appears that I have the same issue, where did you buy the replacement thermo sensor?
Hi, thank you so much for posting this. This is my second steam oven. First one broke I tried to decalcified didn’t work so I got another one second handed and now same problem again. But when I open up to thermostat part it was so rusted I can’t unscrew it out and I just use a plier and yank it out. I’m just not sure if replacing a new thermostat if it would work base on how rusted it is? I wish I can attach a picture here :(
Thanks for this video! Encountering a similar (if not the same) problem right now. Could you please advise as to the replacement product you used around 10:00?
Hi Alan. Please see link from Ellen above.
Could you please add the Amazon product name /link for the part.
Looks like Ellen found it already. Note that the 250v/10a had prong connectors that were a touch too wide and I needed to grind them with a dremel to make them the right width.
Not sure if u can tell me the part so I can order for myself. M
Mine won’t turn on now 😢
Found the part here:
www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07L962FQG
Thanks for the video. Bought the same part and filed down the leads to fit the wire, and was able to fix the oven!
After a few weeks, i saw a spark while trying to steam bake, and the oven totally died with no power. Any idea if there's a fuse or capacitor or something to replace? THanks