Great video. Very logical approach to a difficult task. Tip: Mark things before you take them apart. Thought the big mounting plate should be bolted on first, to align the two halves flush, then bolt the two halves together before tightening any of the four bolt plates last. Paint anything you rebuild. White or light grey is a good color.
I admire your courage in taking on this project. I had the same transmission fail in my 2005 Catalina 310. I had a mechanic take on the project and he just replaced the transmission with a ZF 10M, which was very expensive ($4000 just for the tx). It failed in a year, I'm guessing because the mechanic did not replace the damper plate. When the 10M failed, I replaced it with a ZF 12M (cheaper, but larger and had to shim the engine up a bit) and did the job myself and replaced the damper plate as well. The old damper plate was literally falling apart (probably what caused the previous transmissions to fail). The 12M was a pain to get in but is a heavier duty box and hopefully will last a lot longer. I'm thinking about rebuilding the 10M as a backup which is why I took such interest in your video. Cheers.
Actually, I heard you should keep it in reverse when moving forward which locks the transmission. I went with a twin disk mg340 and never had another problem.
@BLTB So my question is, what did you use for transmission Fluid. The Manual states Type A or Dexron ll. The challenge with both of these is that both are no longer available. Dexron lll is the next generation which is not synthetic.
A few more thoughts. And in my opinion only for what its worth. You run your engine rather high at the point of changing gear. This is not good. Eventually you will break it again. Why did you not paint the transmission before re installing? Why did you not take the time to clean up your bilge? You seem to have a lot of dangling wires. These should be properly secured.
The thrust washers wear out the most. I made mine out of byrilliym and made them 0.005 thicker. But these transmissions are junk. Poor design. An oil cooler to keep the temp down will make it last much longer.
Wow, Sorry to hear that. That is really quick. Just a tip I was told that could help is to make sure your in forward gear when engine is off and you are underway (assuming its a sailboat) to keep the prop from spinning and causing unnecessary wear on the clutch plates. This wear can add up quick and is easy to avoid. Good luck on your journey!
@@bltb8379 Unbelievable!! Talk about the blind leading the blind. You just told John to do EXACTY what he should do in order to GUARANTY that his transmission will FAIL !! A Hurth HBW50 should be REVERSE when sailing without the motor running! (Some of the HBWs can alternately be in neutral.) Directly quoted from the manual... "CAUTION. Use the shift position OPPOSITE to the direction of travel for locking the propeller shaft, otherwise the transmission WILL be damaged." Do you EVER read a manual? (Obviously not, as you did SO many major things totally wrong in this video... like removing the shift arm in order to gain space, allowing the ATF (which should already have been drained) to run into your incredibly filthy bilge.
John... if it's not too late to save your transmission, read my reply to BLTB comment to your post. Do NOT do as he said, or it will destroy your transmission!
You should have left it to a pro. You looked you were clueless. Two things I saw you do wrong. No gasket past between the cases and bearing caps. This gearbox will leak, just saying🤔
![เจอประจำ ตอน เปิดเทอมวันแรก [EP.29]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/eFK-B836i60/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video. Thanks for the help. Congratulations that it work after all the work.
Great video. Very logical approach to a difficult task. Tip: Mark things before you take them apart. Thought the big mounting plate should be bolted on first, to align the two halves flush, then bolt the two halves together before tightening any of the four bolt plates last. Paint anything you rebuild. White or light grey is a good color.
I like this clip
I admire your courage in taking on this project. I had the same transmission fail in my 2005 Catalina 310. I had a mechanic take on the project and he just replaced the transmission with a ZF 10M, which was very expensive ($4000 just for the tx). It failed in a year, I'm guessing because the mechanic did not replace the damper plate. When the 10M failed, I replaced it with a ZF 12M (cheaper, but larger and had to shim the engine up a bit) and did the job myself and replaced the damper plate as well. The old damper plate was literally falling apart (probably what caused the previous transmissions to fail). The 12M was a pain to get in but is a heavier duty box and hopefully will last a lot longer. I'm thinking about rebuilding the 10M as a backup which is why I took such interest in your video. Cheers.
Good job!
Excellent Video, I have to rebuild mine. Someone put oil instead ATF. It made it from Jacksonville Fl to Tallahassee Fl before it quit working.
Happened to me too
Your lucky you can remove your box without having to remove the bell housing from the engine.
I have a reverser like this on his 20 M brand plate it supports an engine with 150 hp
Actually, I heard you should keep it in reverse when moving forward which locks the transmission. I went with a twin disk mg340 and never had another problem.
where you purchased the overhaul kit?
the hbw100 has one ring more, the 220 has 2 rings more... that's why in the kit there where more parts... :)
@BLTB So my question is, what did you use for transmission Fluid. The Manual states Type A or Dexron ll. The challenge with both of these is that both are no longer available. Dexron lll is the next generation which is not synthetic.
Use Dexrom IID
Just adjust the clutch pressure...
Interesting there is no gasket between the two housing halves
Quality German engineering!
It should have gasket paste in between the case halfs
A few more thoughts. And in my opinion only for what its worth. You run your engine rather high at the point of changing gear. This is not good. Eventually you will break it again. Why did you not paint the transmission before re installing? Why did you not take the time to clean up your bilge? You seem to have a lot of dangling wires. These should be properly secured.
Your engine seems to be running way way too fast for engaging disengaging re-engaging FWD neutral REV , hopefully you have had a look at that
Use new bolts, get your wrench calibrated....
The thrust washers wear out the most. I made mine out of byrilliym and made them 0.005 thicker.
But these transmissions are junk. Poor design. An oil cooler to keep the temp down will make it last much longer.
I had mine redone but the clutches burned up again within a year. I hate hurth gearboxes.
Wow, Sorry to hear that. That is really quick. Just a tip I was told that could help is to make sure your in forward gear when engine is off and you are underway (assuming its a sailboat) to keep the prop from spinning and causing unnecessary wear on the clutch plates. This wear can add up quick and is easy to avoid. Good luck on your journey!
@@bltb8379 Unbelievable!! Talk about the blind leading the blind. You just told John to do EXACTY what he should do in order to GUARANTY that his transmission will FAIL !! A Hurth HBW50 should be REVERSE when sailing without the motor running! (Some of the HBWs can alternately be in neutral.) Directly quoted from the manual...
"CAUTION. Use the shift position OPPOSITE to the direction of travel for locking the propeller shaft, otherwise the transmission WILL be damaged."
Do you EVER read a manual? (Obviously not, as you did SO many major things totally wrong in this video... like removing the shift arm in order to gain space, allowing the ATF (which should already have been drained) to run into your incredibly filthy bilge.
John... if it's not too late to save your transmission, read my reply to BLTB comment to your post. Do NOT do as he said, or it will destroy your transmission!
@@jackwebb1449 manual for hbw 50,100, 100v, 150 and 220 reads arm should be in zero position when sailing or moored. Not forward or reverse
Gonna fail in one year. Hire a pro!
You should have left it to a pro. You looked you were clueless. Two things I saw you do wrong. No gasket past between the cases and bearing caps. This gearbox will leak, just saying🤔
You are wrong. There is no gasket between half's. If you do put anything in between it will leak.
Also I'm a machinist.