First of all, thank you for your video! This helps a lot, the problem is never the repair itself, it's what won't work as expected due to rust, corrosion or tooling. This damn squeaky noise.. I mean it's not an expensive repair by all means, another 100 bucks down the drain for both sides, who cares, but it's another saturday gone. 90 000 miles on mine and it should not be broken already.
As a DIYer with time and a press, I much prefer to rebuild assuming the arm itself is in good shape. I have old Civic with rebuilt lower arms. They're find after many years. I also have a 2014 Yaris. On the subject of Yaris's I have noticed that Moog list their K201351 front control arm compliance bushing as for "Japan built" cars. The same part is specifeid by Moog for the 2011. In each case, Moog say "for Japan Built" vehicles. However, in 2013 Toyota shifted Yaris production to France for product shipped to North America. Which leaves me, as a 2014 Yaris owner, with uncertaintity about fitmet of the Moog bushing, or other bushing that fits the Japan made car, in my France built Yaris. I strongly suspect they are identical, but I don't know for sure. Does anyone out there happen to know if the Japan built and France built Yaris are the same insofar as compliance bushings are concerned?
I'm with you, I rebuild control arms whenever possible, usually, even though it is a giant pain sometimes. Sorry I can't definitively answer your questions. Maybe buy both kinds and see what the differences are?
I need to do this on a 07 yaris hatchback with 200 thousand miles soon, Good video, kinda thought it would go easier than that, but now I know what to look for now.
Tracey, as long as you can buy the complete control arms, it's not terrible to do this job. Lifting the engine up is just an annoyance, everything else is pretty smooth. Good luck!
Yes, you take out that lower bolt then use a block of wood on the trans pan and slowly lift up until you can just clear the bolt head on the control arm. How's that for a run-on sentence? Lol
Thank you for this video. Really appreciate that. But instead of removing the engine (side) mounting, you could have just removed the two bolts from the subframe, and the control arm front bolts would have been easily removed 😉
good video! tip for removing the arm from the spindle, put the picklefork in there good, then just get your floor jack and jack up on the pickle fork! beat on it for hours with a hammer and just the fork and nothing budged. jacked up the fork and it popped off first try
It wasn't very hard as I recall. A little tight for access but not rocket science. And the swar bar bushings I had were fine. It was the control arm bushings causing ALL my issues.
Good video, thanks for taking the time amd making this video. Did you have to pay for a shipping to send it back to rock auto? How did you contact them and explain the problem you were facing? Thanks
You have to pay to ship parts back to RA in most cases but, if you buy a label from RockAuto it's very reasonable. It's almost like you're splitting the cost with them, maybe a 1/3 of the cost of normal rates. If you have trouble with rockauto parts there is a spot on their website where you can request a replacement. It's under your orders I believe. Thanks for commenting.
Yes. The camber of the front wheels is set by those bolts on the lower control arms so you'll definitely want to schedule an alignment asap after you're done.
Kalau bunyi besi kelaga gitu di saat stir di belokan ke kanan atau ke kiri..padahal rack steer gnti baru tapi merek heiker,karet belah stabil,link stablizer,karet support shock gnti ori,shock dpn ori,bearing tapak shock gnti ori,as tarik luar dlm gnti smua..koq asal putar stir ke kanan & kiri koq slalu bunyi besi kelaga gitu ya di bawah rack steer? Itu biasa ny apa kendala atau mslh ny bisa bunyi besi kelaga gitu..mohon pencerahan ny bg 🙏
First of all, thank you for your video! This helps a lot, the problem is never the repair itself, it's what won't work as expected due to rust, corrosion or tooling.
This damn squeaky noise.. I mean it's not an expensive repair by all means, another 100 bucks down the drain for both sides, who cares, but it's another saturday gone. 90 000 miles on mine and it should not be broken already.
You're welcome, thanks for the comment. Always unexpected issues on any job!
As a DIYer with time and a press, I much prefer to rebuild assuming the arm itself is in good shape. I have old Civic with rebuilt lower arms. They're find after many years. I also have a 2014 Yaris. On the subject of Yaris's I have noticed that Moog list their K201351 front control arm compliance bushing as for "Japan built" cars. The same part is specifeid by Moog for the 2011. In each case, Moog say "for Japan Built" vehicles. However, in 2013 Toyota shifted Yaris production to France for product shipped to North America. Which leaves me, as a 2014 Yaris owner, with uncertaintity about fitmet of the Moog bushing, or other bushing that fits the Japan made car, in my France built Yaris. I strongly suspect they are identical, but I don't know for sure. Does anyone out there happen to know if the Japan built and France built Yaris are the same insofar as compliance bushings are concerned?
I'm with you, I rebuild control arms whenever possible, usually, even though it is a giant pain sometimes.
Sorry I can't definitively answer your questions. Maybe buy both kinds and see what the differences are?
Thats the clunk sound that im searching for. Thanks for the video
You are welcome. Good luck with your repairs
Thanks for the video, I had the same issue on my Yaris sedan.
I had the creaking going on while cornering combined with braking especially.
I replaced all these bushings over 2 years ago on this car and it's still quiet as a mouse. Good luck.
I need to do this on a 07 yaris hatchback with 200 thousand miles soon, Good video, kinda thought it would go easier than that, but now I know what to look for now.
Tracey, as long as you can buy the complete control arms, it's not terrible to do this job. Lifting the engine up is just an annoyance, everything else is pretty smooth. Good luck!
Yes, you take out that lower bolt then use a block of wood on the trans pan and slowly lift up until you can just clear the bolt head on the control arm. How's that for a run-on sentence? Lol
Thank you for this video. Really appreciate that. But instead of removing the engine (side) mounting, you could have just removed the two bolts from the subframe, and the control arm front bolts would have been easily removed 😉
@@dajenveeraragoo33 either works.
Awesome!! Dude…you saved me so much time and grief! Freakin awesome 👍
Glad to hear it bill, thanks for commenting!
Hi , great video but no need to remove the steering or anti roll bar nuts as you can remove the lower wishbone without touching them !
good video! tip for removing the arm from the spindle, put the picklefork in there good, then just get your floor jack and jack up on the pickle fork! beat on it for hours with a hammer and just the fork and nothing budged. jacked up the fork and it popped off first try
Nice tip!
Thank you great video. Do you know if for a mk3 yaris (2012) 1.33 engine it's necessary to do the same thing (jacking the oil pan)? Thanks again
I am not 100 pct certain, but my guess is yes. It will be obvious of you need to when you start the job.
thanks for sharing! is your yaris automatic? heard you have better clearance with manual transmission. not sure if thats true.
Yes, it is an automatic
@@jcx2bby appreciate it!
@@alfredobrown good luck with your repair
How hard was it to replace the sway bar bushings I’d like some tips on that
It wasn't very hard as I recall. A little tight for access but not rocket science. And the swar bar bushings I had were fine. It was the control arm bushings causing ALL my issues.
@@jcx2bby did you have to drop the frame at all or did you just reach in there
@@omarrolle3842 no nothing that extreme. You may have to remove this and that, but nothing big
@@jcx2bby thanks for tips
A ball joint separator makes releasing the ball joint much easier than pounding on a pickle fork. They are simple to use and inexpensive.
Good video, thanks for taking the time amd making this video. Did you have to pay for a shipping to send it back to rock auto?
How did you contact them and explain the problem you were facing?
Thanks
You have to pay to ship parts back to RA in most cases but, if you buy a label from RockAuto it's very reasonable. It's almost like you're splitting the cost with them, maybe a 1/3 of the cost of normal rates.
If you have trouble with rockauto parts there is a spot on their website where you can request a replacement. It's under your orders I believe. Thanks for commenting.
@@jcx2bby Thanks for quick reply.
Hi Do you need to do alignment after the lower control arm replacement?
Yes. The camber of the front wheels is set by those bolts on the lower control arms so you'll definitely want to schedule an alignment asap after you're done.
Kalau bunyi besi kelaga gitu di saat stir di belokan ke kanan atau ke kiri..padahal rack steer gnti baru tapi merek heiker,karet belah stabil,link stablizer,karet support shock gnti ori,shock dpn ori,bearing tapak shock gnti ori,as tarik luar dlm gnti smua..koq asal putar stir ke kanan & kiri koq slalu bunyi besi kelaga gitu ya di bawah rack steer? Itu biasa ny apa kendala atau mslh ny bisa bunyi besi kelaga gitu..mohon pencerahan ny bg 🙏
Sorry man I don't fully understand this. Have you replaced the bushings yet?