Glad your still enjoying the crank im very happy it went to well appreciated home. As i told you before it was a pleasure and a honor to donate to your project and have a tiny hand in your build. I really do hope that crank takes your cars performance to another level. Keep in touch .
From my own racing experience , having rebuilt engines in the pits between saturday and sunday , I can confirm a few interesting things. Journals can have gnarly DEEP grooves as long they are inline with the rotation of the crank and and you smooth them out as best you can. But if they curve outward , they'll divert oil outward. Consider how high quality aftermarket bearings often have a deep-ass groove by design AND are narrower overall than OEM. Also you can sand the surface of the bearing , you can throw it in the dirt and still use it. You can dump aluminum shavings in your motor along with kitty litter , but no iron or steel. You can reuse removed bearings but you have bend them outward a little bit so they'll fit snug. If they're loose , they'll spin. The tang won't stop it , only crush does....or snug fitment. Oh , and you can race an engine with no secondary rings or oil control rings , didn't make much of a difference.
I have found engines to be odd creatures as to some of the smallest details that can have detrimental effects, yet some large discrepancies the engine can shrug off. At some outboard boat drags, one of the competitors in unlimited class burned a piston with a big hose-down of nitrous. He needed to run another heat later that day. He didn't have a new piston. He removed the piston & rod and still twisted it to 7500rpm on 7 holes. Absolutely, it wasn't good for longevity. The guy owned a performance outboard shop and wasnt too concerned with side effects. But, the fact that the engine did it without throwing parts like an Olympic shot-putter left me scratching my head.
@@Resistculturaldecline An engine will run wide open with Mtn Dew for oil for about 10 minutes but if you don't ground the block to the chassis , static electricity will arc between the crank journals and the bearings and cause erosion until they fail. Engine's fascinating machines , I would hate to see them get replaced with electric stuff. Manufacturers are taking a renewed interest in alternative fuel development, so that might save them.
Correction on the NDI, it's not a Magnetic particle inspection and Dye penetrant are two different things, Magnetic particle which is shown here uses very fine metallic things which funny enough called "glow stuff" by magnaflux when I read thru my publications which is carried by a carrier normally oil based. The dye penetrant is just as its name, its a dye that seeps into the fine cracks, you remove the excess after letting it dwell (normally 30mins) and apply a developer over it and wait again which is half the time of the penetrant dwell time (15mins) and then you can inspect afterwards w/ black light under a dark room.
Im 33 now when I was 19 I had a a 90 1st gen gsx . .2g exhaust manifold , HKS cam with adjustable timing gears , larger 16g turbo with boost controller. Those few mods with boost turned up OMG that little guy was a monster . I tormented my poor neighbors. Im a V8 truck guy . Honestly that is the only car I would consider re buying to build. Im a machinist now , went to college have a bs in engineering and work making hydraulic parts for air crafts . I miss doing stuff like this. Funny thing is out in my garage I have a 4 axis cnc mill and lathe . It sits there these days. Good luck with your builds . They make me envious .
Back when I was in high school (about 1976/77) we had a class trip to what you might call a mass production rebuilder. (Garden State Motors). When they got an engine with a worn out crankshaft they would put it in a machine with an arc welding stick on it. They would weld a bead across all of the journals. They would machine it down to the original specs. I have never seen anything like it before or since.
+ScubaTiger Yep.. I've seen it done and had a 4cyl crank done that way.. I was shocked.. that engine lasted 100,00miles or hard driving before I sold it and it was perfect.
My old friend would weld badly worn journals on a steel shaft with low hydrogen rods and then re-grind and polish it. Saved an expensive crankshaft and it worked a treat.
Spent 15 years rebuilding crankshafts. Our welding procedure was submerged arc and doing that bends the piss out of the shaft. Must be straightened and then reground, but certainly doable. The straigtening process can cause the shaft to break though, so, it's not for everyone. Certainly cool to do.
Apart from the donuts and coffee the other essential thing to bring is a friendly attitude and a smile on your face! Trust me, it goes a long way towards you getting what you want or need. Nothing slows down and drags out a job as much as a shitty attitude does!
Definitely one of the better Self-Help youtube videos I've ever seen done by an average Joe Blow guy. You were both editorial & professional in your presentation.
i don't get it. the crankshaft turns in one direction. the inner four counterweights are knife edged one direction...the outer four counterweights are knife edged the other.
I'm hesitant to say this to a known OCMP2 (obsessive compulsive metal-polishing perfectionist), but would there be a measurable net benefit to polishing the counterweights so that oil slips off the surface with less friction?
Hey man, Would you know of a tool that allows polishing/grinding of the crankshaft journal without having to remove it? I was thinking of a tool composed of 2 semi circles with sanding stones that together form a circle around the journal. Or would you know the name of the 'belt sander' that you used? My crankshaft is badly scored and I was thinking of perhaps using a stainless steel connecting rod bearing to wear out and smooth out the crankshaft a litlle.... Appreciate the help!
@@Jafromobile Mine is really badly scoured, and irregular. Just sandpaper is insufficient. I had tried some 40grit sanpaper backed by 2 connecting rod caps, and that helped, but takes too long by hand alone....after all, it's a forged steel crankshaft. So I'm trying to figure out something a little more heavy duty and professional.
Hi Man. How much did you pay to the mashihinist for that job? How much does this job cost in the US? I'm rebuilding Navigators's 5.4. Have to do boring and honing of the block. It cost 35 euro for 1 cylinder.
A crank from manufacturers right on the edge of being out of balance. The drilled holes in the counterweights/webs should be as close to centre of the web as possible not to the extremities/edge of the crank webs. I'd also be interested to see what the journal roundness and lobing would be from lapping on a precision bit of equipment like an Adcole. Either way, still friggin brilliant to see old school machine shops doing work like this!
the journals were a bit worn because it came from a racing engine, but after polishing it is great, and i learned a few tricks here to make crank counterwaight fluodynamic
Jafro, what's the name of the shop which machined this crank ? How much was it ? Would you recommend doing the same thing to Evo's crank ? BTW I love your videos. Thank You
I have been working on a stock 4g63t 7 bolt rebuild becasue it has worn bearings and shot valve seats. I know you mention that you use aloy OEM parts, Gasket wise how different is OEM vs something like Fel-Pro. I have uses a lot of other brands in in the past. Also when it comes to bearing and rings are the kits you see on ebay really poor quality. I have a tight budget and just looking for some solid advise on what to put it back together with. Any big benifits to the balance shaft removal?
Is repairing a damaged crankshaft viable? My motor spun the #8 bearing and damaged the crankshaft, my engine builder assured that he can repair it rather than replacing it
I don't believe i haven't commented yet... you are brilliant in what you're doing and so inspiring. You're obviously a talented f^&k... which is why you have such a good channel.. more power to you...
Good morning from sunny South Africa , thank you Jaff, please, I hope you can help understand, flat plane, cam timing, especially on twin cam engine , did you remanufacture , cam shafts
with this kind of work done to a stock 6 bolt crankshaft how high much HP/torque/rpm can this handle I've heard they are pretty good up to 500 HP and after that aftermarket cranks are advised I have the stock one and have been considering dropping the cash for a new aftermarket cranks but if the stock can be used for 800+ hp I may be able to save a lot of $$$$
So when are we gonna get to see some assembly Jafro? I've been excited watching this come together to the point to where I forget it's not even my build. lol. Looking forward to an assembly vid. Lastly where would I remove material on a wrist pin to balance out the rod and piston assy? seems like the interior bore is the only way to do that but would this compromise strength?
As a level II certified MP inspector with 18,000 hours on turbine blades but 0 on cranks, I was wondering if you did a head shot or just the coil shot you showed. How does the grain structure run on a forged crankshaft?
No. the flywheel needs to be perfectly balanced on its own... that is a fact that the flywheel needs to be perfectly balanced, and this alone proves the flywheel does not have to be fitted to the crank, you balancing the crank not the flywheel..... when the crank is perfectly balanced it will make no difference whent eh perfectly balanced flywheel is attached......
Another enthusiastic viewer with annoying questions: After the polishing, do you just use the same size bearing shells, or did you source oversize ones? Thanks.
We're going to measure them and find out. To be fair, spec is .0008 to .0020", service limit is .004". Depending on how you will use your engine, you've got a lot of room to play with in that spec. I set the hyundai up at .003" because it doesn't have oil squirters or balance shafts. The rods are at .0025 which is also 5 ten thousandths beyond spec. You gotta think about how you're going to use that engine, how your oil system can be affected by modifications, and consider what role your oil clearances play in that equation. Loose is fast. Tight is long. If you want it to last a long time on the street, un-modified, set it up tight. We'll know if the oil clearances are a problem once we start with a set of standard bearings and take measurements first... then see if it fits my purposes. I'll want it set the GSX up on the looser side, and if we didn't shave too much off if I can probably get away with standard bearings. We'll see. The GSX has no balance shafts, but it will have oil squirters.
Excellent insights, thank you very much for your time. I am running an engine on higher compression ratio than stock, and I am worried that even slight scratching may cause the new bearings to tear. Thanks again
After a normal old regular polishing, yes, you should be able to use the same bearings. That's why the specification gives you a range of clearances that are acceptable, BUT, you should always measure the crank and the bore to be sure. If one is off so bad you can't correct it, you have to make them all match without mixing and matching bearings. You'r not supposed to use an oversize bearing with the rest of a normal set if one's out.
I'm suppose to be studying for my mid-term, instead I'm here watching JAFRO!! Loving the new crank. How much boost are you were you planning to run before you got the new crank and after>>?
If you ever grind off material from a crank, I'd rather bead blast it afterwards, to relieve and create compressive stress, which won't lead to a crack. Bead-blasting is your friend!
Having been a apprentice in a tool room.. seeing large multi insert porting tools being made old school.. man speakes volumes of acquired experience.. Had to take those bodies out for balancing to a outside contractor.. had to be like 8 in dia.. with step down.. by two feet long.. Watched a machine build from scratch.. our maintenance and machine building crew where Yogoslav.. Hungarian and Slovak... Poland...Hungarian and Italian Lol they went to challage for certification... and failed because of translation... thought ok.. ask anyone of those teachers that give certs the opportunity to accomplish what there job duties on any given day.. lol fail. Hell they made a gang mill the cutter had 100 inserts... for cutting a bearing block into its segments... its all one cast.. Could feel that machine cut in trial from 200 feet away..
The weight of the connecting rod's big ends, the total rod weight, and the pistons weight all need to be equalized. Their weights are insignificant since the crankshaft has a natural balance.
+Heather Lee It depends on the hardness of your materials. Hardened steel will shine bright with *much* lower grits than aluminum ever will. Being an avid aluminum polisher, you can hear the surprise in my voice when he answered me with such a low number. I saw the belt, and the crank journals don't lie. I also noticed that I can take 304 stainless straight to black rouge and put a bling on it without sanding, but I can't do that with aluminum tubing without sanding it first to at least 400 grit. I'm convinced it has everything to do with the molecule density of the materials.
Hi, fellow life long learner. I am currently working on an 09 sonata and ran into one of your videos I will check out as many as I can, thank you for your time.
+fockyoumang yes. Or, overloading, vibration, detonation, lopsided forces on the flywheel, too strong of a clutch, riding the clutch pedal, viscosity break down from poor maintenance, missing transmission bolts, old age, or oil or crankcase contamination as you mentioned... That could be metal shavings or water/coolant/sludge... but there's lots of things that can contribute to bering failure. Google "types of engine bearing damage", top link, and you'll find charts to see what the different kinds of failures look like.
Man i love your channel! this video helped me today. I have a 88 volvo 760 with a b230ft. I recently slapped a jy head on it and had to pul the cam as it was a bit rusty. Some oil 1500 grit sandpaper and this video as a sort of guide, i have it all back together. Still not starting :( i think it is the hall sensor in my distributor. but thanks for documenting all of your stuff@!
Hi, anyone have a video on putting on material to the crank, it's currently 20 on the mains and 40 on the legends, I'd like to have them back to standard
hi, what do you think is it cheaper to just buy a brand new crank or get one from a junk yard and have it machined from a shop? doing my first engine build and this was very helpful! thanks!
hey Jafro, thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge. It inspired me to a diy rebuild on a 2jzgte. You have so many videos, I just chose this one to ask this question. If I use lighter pistons and/or lighter rods, will I have to rebalance my crank shaft? None of those part manufacturers made any mension of the need to rebalance although they boast of lighter than stock parts.
+Mark Mohammed That is a multi-plane crankshaft, and it's balanced for the previous assembly. In your case, simply making them all weigh the same won't work. I would have the assembly spin-balanced with all the new parts' weights taken into consideration. Figuring it out the hard way with the engine in the car would be a whole lot less fun
You can do that, but it's not going to grind the surface properly. The tape is going to flex around and follow the shape of the damaged out of spec surface. You NEED to use a grinding wheel that is dressed properly. The guy doesn't even know how to take proper measurements of the journals either.
It's Ballos Precision Machine. They're in Richmond, VA. They've completely remodeled and bought hundreds of thousands of dollars worth of newer and even more precision equipment since I filmed this. They've got a boring machine that will automate the bore and hone while it updates your facebook. Maybe that's an exaggeration, but if that's not local to you, I suggest you hit the yellow pages because shipping a crank for a 383 would be... both expensive AND terrifying unless it's shipped in and out strapped to a pallet by itself. The last thing I shipped like that was $305 freight. If you drop it off an pick it up somewhere I can't imagine you'd spend more than $80-$120 for what you saw done here. They didn't have to make any modifications to it, it was just a re-polish... but I'm happy I have a balance sheet for it now, and peace of mind that it passed the magnaflux. I just stood around for 15 minutes and filmed it. Any shop with a lathe, a belt sander and a good set of mics can do this work. The balance job on that 383 crank is a hell of a lot more complicated, though.
Nah. Bad idea. Crankshafts should be balanced to within 3 grams, and there's less than a snowball's chance that the coating could be applied accurately enough to keep it in balance. Balance it afterwards? I wouldn't want to have to machine a part of the rotating assembly because of a coating. There are better coatings than Glyptal to use for stuff like that, and in the end they still don't add any horsepower.
Hello Jafro. Love the vids and wish you all the best. Is it ok to store a crankshaft on it's side out of the engine for an extended period of time? I read it can warp so I'm storing it vertically.
+shawn sharpe There's 2 schools of thought on this, really. There's the "storing a crank on X side is bad and causes warpage", then there's the "Are you f***ing crazy? A crankshaft won't bend from storing it, it's made out of forged steel". The first crew I've always heard repeat that standing them on end causes warpage. The first crew even recommends hanging it from the #1 and #4 journals. I lay mine flat on a block of wood that keeps the big end off the shelf… but I know the best place to store it is inside the block, oiled, with the bearings that were in it. There's merit to the "it's made out of forged steel" crew. If you're talking a couple of years storage, probably not an issue. If you're talking decades in a region with extreme temperature fluctuations, support it by the main journals or lay it flat on a block of wood.
+Jafromobile You can store a crankshaft laying on its side If the the ends and center main journals are equally supported. Leaning a crankshaft against a wall it the worst thing to do, they will bend(.003-.015) under their own weight in only a week or two . The same thing will happen if it is laid on its side without support. The longer the crankshaft the easier this occurs. Sometimes you can get lucky if the counterweights are equallsized and spaced, they will also support it to a certain degree. A crankshaft is basically like a noodle that is constantly twisting and moving under stress. The base material affects this but they are all flexible to a certain degree. Hanging or standing is the best storage method but like you said inside a block/bearings is the best method. I wish he would have checked the used crank in this video for straightness , but since it still balanced 0-0 I would assume it is OK. Someday please place a used inline crankshaft in a crankshaft grinder and check the stroke and index of the rod journals and I assure you will be shocked at how the stroke and index will vary between the journals. Andy Evans- machine shop owner for 30 years--
Jafro i am a big fan of your page for a long time i come back and watch alot of your videos over and over... i love the 4g63's and am going to be building mine soon hopefully :/ i am going to be building a 4g63 colt already have the car just need to start on the body work before getting the motor.. the body has rust holes in the roof like i have seen on alot of the 4g series cars from people letting them sit and not taking care of the car.. hope to see more videos soon keep them up thanks
That is a nice looking 180 degree crankshaft, it's looking all race like, with those knife edges, hope it works, and I think it will, even if it takes a undersized bearings, on the mains. Unless I heard you wrongly ?
So Jafro, did you ever discover who did all this machine and balancing work on this crankshaft? They obviously do nice work too. Too bad you can not do this do a cross plane crank although I am sure someone out there has tried.
Jaffro, I just got my engine back and now i'm hearing about the crank balls, which contain dirt sealed around them which loosens up after the cleaning at the shop- only to release dirt which embeds itself in my new acl tri metal bearings. IT NEVER ENDS! Tell me this is none sense and that I can start my assembly.
+Jacob McCracken Lol! Spray some solvents in there and blow it out with compressed air. If it comes out clean, you'll be fine. If you're doing your own assembly, you're responsible for all that kind of stuff. The parts may come back clean, but you'll be cleaning all of them yourself prior to assembly. They clean them, but it's only so that you don't have to work as hard at it later. The only way to minimize foreign material during a build is to clean all parts yourself, immediately before installation. If you check for stuff like that before-hand, then there's less of a chance stuff like this slows you down during assembly. That's all. At least you learned it prior to assembly. ;) Most people, like myself, have better success learning from their mistakes.
Im getting a full engine rebuild on my mercedes and having sent the crankshaft of for this same refurb they sent it back and grinded it too much! pfff...
love your video i am now thinking of making the car that i want, and also the engine as well, like you know its up to me to make shore my car run well. have a nice weekend. colin. uk.
Your description of the inspection methods needs some more research. Magnetic Particle Inspection does not use a dye, it used an oil carrier vehicle and fine iron particles. Dye penetrant inspection is a completely different NDT method.
+Randy Wade Nope! Sure wasn't! It's kinduv funny you asked that... but it's a long complicated story that few people would last through without hanging themselves, slitting their wrists or overdosing. I wish none of those things on anyone. The short story is... this was made by an out-of-business shop that was in competition with ffwd. It is an extremely well-made part.
+Randy Wade Darren and I have never done business, but I did reach out to him. He missed a *big opportunity*. No care or desire to expand on it further but wish him the best of luck.
Randy Wade Hahah. To that statement, a typical DSMer responds with, "How many are you up to now?". They're pretty easy and affordable to collect. They're starting to become a little scarce where I am now.
Nope! Not on the crank anyway... it's in progress. I'm in a holding pattern. I'd be working on my Hyundai project right now to bring something else I've been working on to you, but it's outdoors, it's 103° & sunny here RN. I need a bigger garage so bad...
I ask the same question. Somehow wine gets packaged this way too? Fine by me, I won't drink either one... but what's even more strange... in Canada, milk comes in a plastic bag.
***** actually, at my place a huge amounts of wine are placed in a plastic bag and you have a small valve that you have to press it to let the wine bleed out, its placed in boxes so the bag wont be damaged, and about milk at my place, its in teter packs, idk if i pronounced that word correctly if i did correct me, btw i like your videos, i hope you post more of them soon.
Hello. I'm in need of a crankshaft welding machine. Can anyone help me with the addresses of the companies dealing on it. I need the catalogue and quote urgently.
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Glad your still enjoying the crank im very happy it went to well appreciated home. As i told you before it was a pleasure and a honor to donate to your project and have a tiny hand in your build. I really do hope that crank takes your cars performance to another level. Keep in touch .
domestickilla Top man
InstaBlaster.
From my own racing experience , having rebuilt engines in the pits between saturday and sunday , I can confirm a few interesting things. Journals can have gnarly DEEP grooves as long they are inline with the rotation of the crank and and you smooth them out as best you can. But if they curve outward , they'll divert oil outward. Consider how high quality aftermarket bearings often have a deep-ass groove by design AND are narrower overall than OEM. Also you can sand the surface of the bearing , you can throw it in the dirt and still use it. You can dump aluminum shavings in your motor along with kitty litter , but no iron or steel. You can reuse removed bearings but you have bend them outward a little bit so they'll fit snug. If they're loose , they'll spin. The tang won't stop it , only crush does....or snug fitment. Oh , and you can race an engine with no secondary rings or oil control rings , didn't make much of a difference.
I have found engines to be odd creatures as to some of the smallest details that can have detrimental effects, yet some large discrepancies the engine can shrug off.
At some outboard boat drags, one of the competitors in unlimited class burned a piston with a big hose-down of nitrous. He needed to run another heat later that day. He didn't have a new piston. He removed the piston & rod and still twisted it to 7500rpm on 7 holes. Absolutely, it wasn't good for longevity. The guy owned a performance outboard shop and wasnt too concerned with side effects. But, the fact that the engine did it without throwing parts like an Olympic shot-putter left me scratching my head.
@@Resistculturaldecline An engine will run wide open with Mtn Dew for oil for about 10 minutes but if you don't ground the block to the chassis , static electricity will arc between the crank journals and the bearings and cause erosion until they fail. Engine's fascinating machines , I would hate to see them get replaced with electric stuff. Manufacturers are taking a renewed interest in alternative fuel development, so that might save them.
As a machinist thank you for spreading the word on doughnuts lol. We can't possibly get enough
This guy is clearly an undercover cop
Correction on the NDI, it's not a Magnetic particle inspection and Dye penetrant are two different things, Magnetic particle which is shown here uses very fine metallic things which funny enough called "glow stuff" by magnaflux when I read thru my publications which is carried by a carrier normally oil based. The dye penetrant is just as its name, its a dye that seeps into the fine cracks, you remove the excess after letting it dwell (normally 30mins) and apply a developer over it and wait again which is half the time of the penetrant dwell time (15mins) and then you can inspect afterwards w/ black light under a dark room.
Im 33 now when I was 19 I had a a 90 1st gen gsx .
.2g exhaust manifold , HKS cam with adjustable timing gears , larger 16g turbo with boost controller.
Those few mods with boost turned up OMG that little guy was a monster . I tormented my poor neighbors.
Im a V8 truck guy . Honestly that is the only car I would consider re buying to build.
Im a machinist now , went to college have a bs in engineering and work making hydraulic parts for air crafts . I miss doing stuff like this. Funny thing is out in my garage I have a 4 axis cnc mill and lathe . It sits there these days.
Good luck with your builds . They make me envious .
Are you interested in selling those 2 CNC machines?
Sometimes I really wish I were a machinist instead of a mechanic. Those tools look killer.
i think its about turning a annoying scratched unpleasant-to-the-eye surface and turning it into a mirror finish smooth surface.
Back when I was in high school (about 1976/77) we had a class trip to what you might call a mass production rebuilder. (Garden State Motors).
When they got an engine with a worn out crankshaft they would put it in a machine with an arc welding stick on it. They would weld a bead across all of the journals.
They would machine it down to the original specs.
I have never seen anything like it before or since.
+ScubaTiger Yep.. I've seen it done and had a 4cyl crank done that way.. I was shocked.. that engine lasted 100,00miles or hard driving before I sold it and it was perfect.
Metallurgy at its finest 😎
+ScubaTiger A local shop did that, they had a very hard to find crank so they have to fix that one, very expensive job!
My old friend would weld badly worn journals on a steel shaft with low hydrogen rods and then re-grind and polish it. Saved an expensive crankshaft and it worked a treat.
Spent 15 years rebuilding crankshafts. Our welding procedure was submerged arc and doing that bends the piss out of the shaft. Must be straightened and then reground, but certainly doable. The straigtening process can cause the shaft to break though, so, it's not for everyone. Certainly cool to do.
Apart from the donuts and coffee the other essential thing to bring is a friendly attitude and a smile on your face! Trust me, it goes a long way towards you getting what you want or need. Nothing slows down and drags out a job as much as a shitty attitude does!
Attitude travels.
Andrew Wilson MazDa3500
MazDa3500
Mujra 35
Definitely one of the better Self-Help youtube videos I've ever seen done by an average Joe Blow guy. You were both editorial & professional in your presentation.
i don't get it. the crankshaft turns in one direction. the inner four counterweights are knife edged one direction...the outer four counterweights are knife edged the other.
I'm hesitant to say this to a known OCMP2 (obsessive compulsive metal-polishing perfectionist), but would there be a measurable net benefit to polishing the counterweights so that oil slips off the surface with less friction?
that box of krispy kreme donuts costs about 30 dollars in australia, 6 pack of good beer about 18. Nobody takes donuts to anyone here.
Would you take beer to your machinist ?
Outstanding work protecting and shipping the crank . People who care rock .
What happened to the gsx build? It's been a while since you made a video about it.
Do you have any idea on why my machine cut overall on one side...my machine is giving me pressure
So true about the doughnuts, and you got the right kind too. Bringing Dunkin Frosted Bagels might get your crank "accidentally" dropped.
What crank? I didn't see nuthin'.
Hey man, Would you know of a tool that allows polishing/grinding of the crankshaft journal without having to remove it? I was thinking of a tool composed of 2 semi circles with sanding stones that together form a circle around the journal.
Or would you know the name of the 'belt sander' that you used? My crankshaft is badly scored and I was thinking of perhaps using a stainless steel connecting rod bearing to wear out and smooth out the crankshaft a litlle....
Appreciate the help!
People have used an emery cloth with a shoe string. ;)
@@Jafromobile Mine is really badly scoured, and irregular. Just sandpaper is insufficient.
I had tried some 40grit sanpaper backed by 2 connecting rod caps, and that helped, but takes too long by hand alone....after all, it's a forged steel crankshaft.
So I'm trying to figure out something a little more heavy duty and professional.
I have a video showing how to make an external/ crankshaft grinder, used on badly scoured cranks
Sir could you please do a tutorial of complete crankshaft grinding from measurement setup control and entire operation process.?
I wish i could like your videos 1000 times. You deserve to make a good living off of this. Happy DSMing.
Hi Man. How much did you pay to the mashihinist for that job? How much does this job cost in the US? I'm rebuilding Navigators's 5.4. Have to do boring and honing of the block. It cost 35 euro for 1 cylinder.
What engine is this crank out of?
A crank from manufacturers right on the edge of being out of balance. The drilled holes in the counterweights/webs should be as close to centre of the web as possible not to the extremities/edge of the crank webs.
I'd also be interested to see what the journal roundness and lobing would be from lapping on a precision bit of equipment like an Adcole.
Either way, still friggin brilliant to see old school machine shops doing work like this!
Hey, no apologies needed about this correction video, just imagining that thing spinning in a crank case, slicing through oil spray is awesome.
how much crankshaft can be re ground?
the journals were a bit worn because it came from a racing engine, but after polishing it is great, and i learned a few tricks here to make crank counterwaight fluodynamic
Jafro, what's the name of the shop which machined this crank ? How much was it ? Would you recommend doing the same thing to Evo's crank ? BTW I love your videos. Thank You
I have been working on a stock 4g63t 7 bolt rebuild becasue it has worn bearings and shot valve seats. I know you mention that you use aloy OEM parts, Gasket wise how different is OEM vs something like Fel-Pro. I have uses a lot of other brands in in the past. Also when it comes to bearing and rings are the kits you see on ebay really poor quality. I have a tight budget and just looking for some solid advise on what to put it back together with. Any big benifits to the balance shaft removal?
Also Ligenfelter Performance did a Flat-Plane 358" LSx Build.
Is repairing a damaged crankshaft viable? My motor spun the #8 bearing and damaged the crankshaft, my engine builder assured that he can repair it rather than replacing it
is there any information on a 1959Ford galaxie engine I'm currently working on my 59 Ford galaxie I would like some information please and thank you
I don't believe i haven't commented yet... you are brilliant in what you're doing and so inspiring. You're obviously a talented f^&k... which is why you have such a good channel.. more power to you...
Good day sir , is that a flat plane crankshaft
It is indeed, my good man!
Good morning from sunny South Africa , thank you Jaff, please, I hope you can help understand, flat plane, cam timing, especially on twin cam engine , did you remanufacture , cam shafts
I want to apply the same concept, on to an Audi/VW 2ltr 16v engine
@@RajeshDookaran I made a video about it! Look up on my channel, "Cylinder Head 205 - Degree DOHC Camshafts"
@@Jafromobile ,thanks bud , looking forward to seeing it keep up the good work 👍
great vid jafro i have a question how much cost the polish and balance ?
I am looking for a machinist recommendation that can do these services on an outboard engine
in South Florida.
with this kind of work done to a stock 6 bolt crankshaft how high much HP/torque/rpm can this handle I've heard they are pretty good up to 500 HP and after that aftermarket cranks are advised I have the stock one and have been considering dropping the cash for a new aftermarket cranks but if the stock can be used for 800+ hp I may be able to save a lot of $$$$
So when are we gonna get to see some assembly Jafro? I've been excited watching this come together to the point to where I forget it's not even my build. lol. Looking forward to an assembly vid. Lastly where would I remove material on a wrist pin to balance out the rod and piston assy? seems like the interior bore is the only way to do that but would this compromise strength?
Mine doesn't even look that bad and the machine shop said is no good or he recommended oversize thrust bearing for my f22c1 s2k engine
is there some difference from stock to this mod? (altrough it is a very time consuming mod on the crank) (some gain in high rev band?)
As a level II certified MP inspector with 18,000 hours on turbine blades but 0 on cranks, I was wondering if you did a head shot or just the coil shot you showed. How does the grain structure run on a forged crankshaft?
Yes, I would like to know that as well.
Great to have experts inspecting/polishing the crankshaft :-))
You can have full confidence its perfect :-)
I missed the bit where it got checked for bend.
in crank shaft balance I think flywheel should tight with the crank shaft
No. the flywheel needs to be perfectly balanced on its own... that is a fact that the flywheel needs to be perfectly balanced, and this alone proves the flywheel does not have to be fitted to the crank, you balancing the crank not the flywheel..... when the crank is perfectly balanced it will make no difference whent eh perfectly balanced flywheel is attached......
Great videos, it has inspired me to port and polish my heads on my 93 LT-1. I'll let you know howit goes.
How did it go?
@@justinaulgur9812 it blew up
Another enthusiastic viewer with annoying questions: After the polishing, do you just use the same size bearing shells, or did you source oversize ones? Thanks.
We're going to measure them and find out. To be fair, spec is .0008 to .0020", service limit is .004". Depending on how you will use your engine, you've got a lot of room to play with in that spec. I set the hyundai up at .003" because it doesn't have oil squirters or balance shafts. The rods are at .0025 which is also 5 ten thousandths beyond spec. You gotta think about how you're going to use that engine, how your oil system can be affected by modifications, and consider what role your oil clearances play in that equation. Loose is fast. Tight is long. If you want it to last a long time on the street, un-modified, set it up tight. We'll know if the oil clearances are a problem once we start with a set of standard bearings and take measurements first... then see if it fits my purposes. I'll want it set the GSX up on the looser side, and if we didn't shave too much off if I can probably get away with standard bearings. We'll see. The GSX has no balance shafts, but it will have oil squirters.
Excellent insights, thank you very much for your time. I am running an engine on higher compression ratio than stock, and I am worried that even slight scratching may cause the new bearings to tear. Thanks again
Good presentation
I'm planning to open a machining shop. Maybe one of you masters can guide this humble one ?
Man... ive learned more from your channel than anywhere... keep it up. My gf hates you tho. Lol. What state are you in?
VA
im in el paso minnisipi
After a regular polishing would you still usually be able to use the same size bearings?
After a normal old regular polishing, yes, you should be able to use the same bearings. That's why the specification gives you a range of clearances that are acceptable, BUT, you should always measure the crank and the bore to be sure. If one is off so bad you can't correct it, you have to make them all match without mixing and matching bearings. You'r not supposed to use an oversize bearing with the rest of a normal set if one's out.
I'm suppose to be studying for my mid-term, instead I'm here watching JAFRO!! Loving the new crank. How much boost are you were you planning to run before you got the new crank and after>>?
If you ever grind off material from a crank, I'd rather bead blast it afterwards, to relieve and create compressive stress, which won't lead to a crack. Bead-blasting is your friend!
Having been a apprentice in a tool room.. seeing large multi insert porting tools being made old school.. man speakes volumes of acquired experience..
Had to take those bodies out for balancing to a outside contractor.. had to be like 8 in dia.. with step down.. by two feet long..
Watched a machine build from scratch.. our maintenance and machine building crew where Yogoslav.. Hungarian and Slovak... Poland...Hungarian and Italian
Lol they went to challage for certification... and failed because of translation... thought ok.. ask anyone of those teachers that give certs the opportunity to accomplish what there job duties on any given day.. lol fail.
Hell they made a gang mill the cutter had 100 inserts... for cutting a bearing block into its segments... its all one cast..
Could feel that machine cut in trial from 200 feet away..
Did you remove piston/rod weight equal to the crank counter balance weight removed?
The weight of the connecting rod's big ends, the total rod weight, and the pistons weight all need to be equalized. Their weights are insignificant since the crankshaft has a natural balance.
what grit did you use to polish it cause 400 can't be right cause 1000 doesn't even get you results like that.
+Heather Lee It depends on the hardness of your materials. Hardened steel will shine bright with *much* lower grits than aluminum ever will. Being an avid aluminum polisher, you can hear the surprise in my voice when he answered me with such a low number. I saw the belt, and the crank journals don't lie. I also noticed that I can take 304 stainless straight to black rouge and put a bling on it without sanding, but I can't do that with aluminum tubing without sanding it first to at least 400 grit. I'm convinced it has everything to do with the molecule density of the materials.
Hi, fellow life long learner.
I am currently working on an 09 sonata and ran into one of your videos
I will check out as many as I can, thank you for your time.
what's the main cause of journals failing on the crankshaft, besides oil? Metal shavings in the oil?
+fockyoumang yes. Or, overloading, vibration, detonation, lopsided forces on the flywheel, too strong of a clutch, riding the clutch pedal, viscosity break down from poor maintenance, missing transmission bolts, old age, or oil or crankcase contamination as you mentioned... That could be metal shavings or water/coolant/sludge... but there's lots of things that can contribute to bering failure. Google "types of engine bearing damage", top link, and you'll find charts to see what the different kinds of failures look like.
Man i love your channel! this video helped me today. I have a 88 volvo 760 with a b230ft. I recently slapped a jy head on it and had to pul the cam as it was a bit rusty. Some oil 1500 grit sandpaper and this video as a sort of guide, i have it all back together. Still not starting :( i think it is the hall sensor in my distributor. but thanks for documenting all of your stuff@!
Hi, anyone have a video on putting on material to the crank, it's currently 20 on the mains and 40 on the legends, I'd like to have them back to standard
hi,
what do you think is it cheaper to just buy a brand new crank or get one from a junk yard and have it machined from a shop? doing my first engine build and this was very helpful! thanks!
Junkyard + refurbish = crankshaft for around $150. New crank for whatever car is usually in the $450+ range.
Jafromobile awesome! thanks again!
hey Jafro, thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge. It inspired me to a diy rebuild on a 2jzgte. You have so many videos, I just chose this one to ask this question.
If I use lighter pistons and/or lighter rods, will I have to rebalance my crank shaft? None of those part manufacturers made any mension of the need to rebalance although they boast of lighter than stock parts.
+Mark Mohammed That is a multi-plane crankshaft, and it's balanced for the previous assembly. In your case, simply making them all weigh the same won't work. I would have the assembly spin-balanced with all the new parts' weights taken into consideration. Figuring it out the hard way with the engine in the car would be a whole lot less fun
hello great vids quick question will a 92 4g63 7 bolt crankshaft fit a 99 4g63 7 bolt
6-bolt fits 6-bolt, 7-bolt fits 7-bolt. Generations don't matter unless it's the one that voted for Obama. It doesn't apply to crankshafts.
***** I'm stealing that comment for future use.. love the vids btw
lol thanks
You can do that, but it's not going to grind the surface properly. The tape is going to flex around and follow the shape of the damaged out of spec surface. You NEED to use a grinding wheel that is dressed properly. The guy doesn't even know how to take proper measurements of the journals either.
Slappy Fistwad waaa
Glad that crank went to a good home
What shop is this? And approximately how much was this job? I'm looking to get my sbc 383 crankshaft "refurbished".
It's Ballos Precision Machine. They're in Richmond, VA. They've completely remodeled and bought hundreds of thousands of dollars worth of newer and even more precision equipment since I filmed this. They've got a boring machine that will automate the bore and hone while it updates your facebook. Maybe that's an exaggeration, but if that's not local to you, I suggest you hit the yellow pages because shipping a crank for a 383 would be... both expensive AND terrifying unless it's shipped in and out strapped to a pallet by itself. The last thing I shipped like that was $305 freight. If you drop it off an pick it up somewhere I can't imagine you'd spend more than $80-$120 for what you saw done here. They didn't have to make any modifications to it, it was just a re-polish... but I'm happy I have a balance sheet for it now, and peace of mind that it passed the magnaflux. I just stood around for 15 minutes and filmed it. Any shop with a lathe, a belt sander and a good set of mics can do this work. The balance job on that 383 crank is a hell of a lot more complicated, though.
Jafromobile ok, I appreciate it, thanks man.
Oh my god you live an hour away from me.
I just watched your paint video of the head ... Would a crank benefit from the same treatment ?
Nah. Bad idea. Crankshafts should be balanced to within 3 grams, and there's less than a snowball's chance that the coating could be applied accurately enough to keep it in balance. Balance it afterwards? I wouldn't want to have to machine a part of the rotating assembly because of a coating. There are better coatings than Glyptal to use for stuff like that, and in the end they still don't add any horsepower.
so this was a old BJ's Crank n you said FFWD ?? They did work for each other
I would have left the scratches. Oil fills the valleys of the scratch.
And reduces oil pressure and oil wedge
Hello Jafro. Love the vids and wish you all the best. Is it ok to store a crankshaft on it's side out of the engine for an extended period of time? I read it can warp so I'm storing it vertically.
+shawn sharpe There's 2 schools of thought on this, really. There's the "storing a crank on X side is bad and causes warpage", then there's the "Are you f***ing crazy? A crankshaft won't bend from storing it, it's made out of forged steel". The first crew I've always heard repeat that standing them on end causes warpage. The first crew even recommends hanging it from the #1 and #4 journals. I lay mine flat on a block of wood that keeps the big end off the shelf… but I know the best place to store it is inside the block, oiled, with the bearings that were in it. There's merit to the "it's made out of forged steel" crew. If you're talking a couple of years storage, probably not an issue. If you're talking decades in a region with extreme temperature fluctuations, support it by the main journals or lay it flat on a block of wood.
Well thanks I've had it standing vertical for a few days in a bag and oiled,max a month till it hits the machine shop.
+Jafromobile You can store a crankshaft laying on its side If the the ends and center main journals are equally supported. Leaning a crankshaft against a wall it the worst thing to do, they will bend(.003-.015) under their own weight in only a week or two . The same thing will happen if it is laid on its side without support. The longer the crankshaft the easier this occurs. Sometimes you can get lucky if the counterweights are equallsized and spaced, they will also support it to a certain degree. A crankshaft is basically like a noodle that is constantly twisting and moving under stress. The base material affects this but they are all flexible to a certain degree. Hanging or standing is the best storage method but like you said inside a block/bearings is the best method. I wish he would have checked the used crank in this video for straightness , but since it still balanced 0-0 I would assume it is OK. Someday please place a used inline crankshaft in a crankshaft grinder and check the stroke and index of the rod journals and I assure you will be shocked at how the stroke and index will vary between the journals. Andy Evans- machine shop owner for 30 years--
Jafro i am a big fan of your page for a long time i come back and watch alot of your videos over and over... i love the 4g63's and am going to be building mine soon hopefully :/ i am going to be building a 4g63 colt already have the car just need to start on the body work before getting the motor.. the body has rust holes in the roof like i have seen on alot of the 4g series cars from people letting them sit and not taking care of the car.. hope to see more videos soon keep them up thanks
That is a nice looking 180 degree crankshaft, it's looking all race like, with those knife edges, hope it works, and I think it will, even if it takes a undersized bearings, on the mains. Unless I heard you wrongly ?
Did they build that belt polisher?
+douro20 goodson tools sell's them ...about a grand
I can't wait to see it, man. Love everything I've watched on this build (and the channel) so far. Keep up the good work!!
So Jafro, did you ever discover who did all this machine and balancing work on this crankshaft? They obviously do nice work too.
Too bad you can not do this do a cross plane crank although I am sure someone out there has tried.
Jaffro, I just got my engine back and now i'm hearing about the crank balls, which contain dirt sealed around them which loosens up after the cleaning at the shop- only to release dirt which embeds itself in my new acl tri metal bearings. IT NEVER ENDS! Tell me this is none sense and that I can start my assembly.
+Jacob McCracken Lol! Spray some solvents in there and blow it out with compressed air. If it comes out clean, you'll be fine. If you're doing your own assembly, you're responsible for all that kind of stuff. The parts may come back clean, but you'll be cleaning all of them yourself prior to assembly. They clean them, but it's only so that you don't have to work as hard at it later. The only way to minimize foreign material during a build is to clean all parts yourself, immediately before installation. If you check for stuff like that before-hand, then there's less of a chance stuff like this slows you down during assembly. That's all. At least you learned it prior to assembly. ;) Most people, like myself, have better success learning from their mistakes.
Im getting a full engine rebuild on my mercedes and having sent the crankshaft of for this same refurb they sent it back and grinded it too much! pfff...
What's the first grit he used two polish it?
Don`t know but I would use 400 then 600 or 800 to finish.
love your video i am now thinking of making the car that i want, and also the engine as well, like you know its up to me to make shore my car run well. have a nice weekend. colin. uk.
why do the krispy kremes in the us look so much better than the ones in uk!
James Lyons because they are
Lard. They can't use lard in the UK because it's not Halal!
Your description of the inspection methods needs some more research. Magnetic Particle Inspection does not use a dye, it used an oil carrier vehicle and fine iron particles. Dye penetrant inspection is a completely different NDT method.
do not over think the scratches remember it rides on oil no metal
what they charge to do that?
+Daniel Urrutia $80. :)
+Jafromobile cool thanks doing a factory rebuild on a d16z6 with a y8 vtec head.
dude 4g63 that shit! jk Good luck with the build man, im doing a rebuild on a 4g63 myself right now.
was that a ffwd crankshaft?
+Randy Wade Nope! Sure wasn't! It's kinduv funny you asked that... but it's a long complicated story that few people would last through without hanging themselves, slitting their wrists or overdosing. I wish none of those things on anyone. The short story is... this was made by an out-of-business shop that was in competition with ffwd. It is an extremely well-made part.
+Jafromobile ok. yeah Darren built me a motor years ago. he is just a hour or so away.
+Randy Wade Darren and I have never done business, but I did reach out to him. He missed a *big opportunity*. No care or desire to expand on it further but wish him the best of luck.
+Jafromobile well one day I might go find me another dsm
Randy Wade Hahah. To that statement, a typical DSMer responds with, "How many are you up to now?".
They're pretty easy and affordable to collect. They're starting to become a little scarce where I am now.
That lathe must be a derelict. No one should expose the ways to abrasive grit like this guy does.
that's 1 bad ass looking crank
That's a nice flat plane crankshaft.
This video made it to my Engines and Transaxles playlist 😁
Ditto. I wish a box of KK doughnuts came with my mill.
The Florida pool pump motor bearing repair guy When Service Calls Longwood approved ! that was good info"
Awesome gift indeed!!
5:21 what the hell was that?
Sound effects. Perhaps a giant Fly
round 2? :)
Nope! Not on the crank anyway... it's in progress. I'm in a holding pattern. I'd be working on my Hyundai project right now to bring something else I've been working on to you, but it's outdoors, it's 103° & sunny here RN. I need a bigger garage so bad...
Too aggressive with the belt, should have turned it or left it.
What did you say this was for? a gsx?
Yeahp. '95 Eclipse. It's getting an early '92 6-bolt transplant. 'should be a kick in the pants.
***** ah ok, sorry i thought when you said gsx you meant a suzuki motorbike but i thought that crank looked way too big for a bike you see
About to take a chainsaw to my crank, I want less froth on my beer (oil sump)..
Check my videos I broke a dsm crank. I blame my builder he shaved it down insted of balance and polish.
That’s a good looking crank
lol, a box of coffee, how the heck does that work?
I ask the same question. Somehow wine gets packaged this way too? Fine by me, I won't drink either one... but what's even more strange... in Canada, milk comes in a plastic bag.
***** actually, at my place a huge amounts of wine are placed in a plastic bag and you have a small valve that you have to press it to let the wine bleed out, its placed in boxes so the bag wont be damaged, and about milk at my place, its in teter packs, idk if i pronounced that word correctly if i did correct me, btw i like your videos, i hope you post more of them soon.
Marijana Brezić messy.
Is this what you call a flat plane crank?
signed
an expert
Hello. I'm in need of a crankshaft welding machine. Can anyone help me with the addresses of the companies dealing on it. I need the catalogue and quote urgently.
Absolutely Feckin Awesome
awesome donation!
nice knife edging...
ok thanks jafro !!
That's a pretty sweet piece