AK INTERACTIVE METAL BURNISHING FLUID "HOW TO" GUIDE
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ธ.ค. 2016
- Another "How To" guide from Scale War Machines.
www.scalewarmachines.com
This time we show how to weather metal tracks (FriulModel, Masterclub, Easy Tracks etc.). Finish your after-market metal tracks using burnishing fluid!
This will really help with your scale models & will enhance realism. There are a few products on the market & we used one, AK Interactive's Metal Burnishing Fluid, reference #AK153. It relies on a chemical reaction to corrode the white metal & make realistic rusty metal. The exact end effect depends on the duration of immersion & the degree of dilution - because you can "cut" the fluid with water to make it go further.
Enjoy!
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Best video on the subject.
The MasterClub tracks for the Object 279 come with a jig that helps instead of having to line up the tracks on sticky tape it already has grooves set into it
you will have same effect using liquid miracle grow, or you could dissolve 20-20-20 fertilizer in water. they use it to age repairs on the Statue of Liberty so that the repairs match the rest of the statue.
Great 👍 Thanks for sharing 👍 🥃🥃
Полезное видео
it was first realeased as Bacckening solution. Brownwells sells a better one that I use to give metal an ahed brown finish
Hi, can this be used RC models? I have a T-90 with metal tracks and I would like to weather it but it needs to remain 100% workable so there won't be any problems with moving.
Oh yes, these and any other products (e.g. Blacken-It) create a chemical tarnishing on the metal (not burnishing as AK would have you believe). So if your tracks were workable for RC before, they should be afterwards - in theory. Can't see why not as only the metal is affected...
I'm looking for the Uschi Van Der Rosten Brass Burnishing Fluid for brass gun barrels I have. Can you help me find some or if not, what else can I use?
Ammo by Mig, Wilder, AK, they all have basically the same stuff.
Just brush the liquid on the tracks instead of wasting half a bottle lol
I have two part tracks where the pads are glued using CA glue. Will the burnishing fluid eat the CA glue if the pads are attached before using the burnishing fluid? Or should I burnish the tracks with the pads off and glue them on afterwards?
Should be ok. If you look at the video, you will see the areas where there was CA glue spill were completely unaffected. So you should be fine.
That's good because I figured after burnishing which appears to be actual rusting of the parts, there would be little or no bonding capability for the pads to be glued on.
It should be called "tarnishing fluid." Look up burnish, it means to clean, polish, or make smooth. The product does exactly the opposite.
So true.
Chris' Hobbi
show
Soaking for 10 minutes? In another video i saw 30 seconds and it was the same results. Can somebody help with dilution and times? Or was the prodict changed? I want a nicely worn effect (like 3:38 in this vid), but not more.
If we said it took ten minutes that is because that's what it took or said on the bottle. That doesn't mean some other products may be less time depending on the formulation. You just have to make a judgement and use the manufacturer's instructions. When you see the effect you like, stop the bathing/exposure to the product and rinse off to neutralise. Have fun!
Scale War Machines wow, thanks for the quick repsonse! The thing is, i meant the other ak product. Ive seen ak burnishing fluids, same bottle, but with different labels. I guess ill just order one and see what happens, my only fear is overdoing the effect.
Scale War Machines so i just remove when desired effect is visible right? Its not gona keep on reacting that much after i get it out and rinse it in water ?
That's the recollection but if in doubt, you can do some tests on a few spare track links. AK may have changed the formulation or packaging. Just go gently, follow instructions and use test pieces first to understand how it behaves. Don't worry it's not very complex. After a certain point the reaction can't go that much further so overdoing it is hard.
I have 8 strands of T-55 tracks how many bottles will I need ?
Maybe 3 to be safe but you can sort of reuse. This chemical is basically what people use to restore blueing on guns so you may be able to find bigger quantities for that purpose. Remember too, you can reuse or water down the AK stuff to an extent to make it go further. And you can bathe four runs in one go. So you might get away with just two.
That makes sense a aircraft modeler friend mention getting this agent from a gun store.
Looks like gun blue, to me, and probably cheaper.
How would you suggest someone disposes of the used fluid? I have a very strong feeling that pouring the fluid down the drain would not be a good idea as the chemicals involved are toxic and should not be allowed to get into the water supply via the drains. In fact it could well be a criminal offence to do so in many jurisdictions. So I think before using this stuff and similar burnishing solutions it might be a good idea to find a suitable container to decant the used fluid into and find a local safe disposal facility. In the UK most town councils operate a harmful chemical disposal unit at local, municipal rubbish tips, recycling centres, incinerators etc. I'm sure other countries must have similar facilities available.
Yes - we could have made that clearer. You could also pour into a bucket of sand or sawdust & then dispose of at a proper facility.
Scale War Machines are you sure the fluid has to be disposed of? Some of these chemicals can be reused many times before they are no longer effective.
Doesn't have to be - not sure how long it will keep its properties though...but there's something nice about a pure pristine track bath each time...
I've used basically the same process on 1:1 scale R2-D2 for the hoses on the feet. It's baking soda, hydrogen peroxide, regular household ammonia, baking soda, and water. It can go down the drain. The chemicals oxide the metal and essentially rusts them.
I got them all over my hand xd
This is for lazy people that dont just paint all the details on.