I'm going to get this machine when I can, but I wanted to point out the fact that you have amazing studio quality content and yet under 400k subscribers. That's a friggin CRIME. 3D printing is basically mainstream at the moment and you're the only one out of everyone else I watch with such quality.
Pretty crazy for the price, just like its bigger brother. I still think that spool holder is SOO annoying though! I wish they'd bring out a gigantic version with the same components haha
Hi, I was considering buying the Sidewinder X1, but I'm not sure about the cables. Do you think they did anything about them? If anything that could be the dealbreaker for me. Thanks and continue the great work of yours. ;)
I bought a ASW. Arrived with ribbon to extruder bent. Printed ok then started to show issues the same as a failing filament motor when cog teeth break. Fix was replace the cable. Prints sound now. Got it down to 40 microns resolution. Prints are sound in PLA so far. To stop the z wobble: print speed: 24 mm/s . Flow for mine is best at 90%. Not tried other materials / composites yet. The noisiest part of the printer is the rapid Y movement on some prints. I recently reduced the print speed for walls down to 12 mm/s. This has reduced the NVF & thudding noise but not 100%. This has resulted in a 6 hour print becoming 8.5hrs. The bed requires NO glue or additional things to stick prints down. This bed, mixed with the filament sensor has resulted in more successful prints which reduce costs. I have used low cost PLA, all work sound to date. My opinion of the ASW is the machine to date is a very good buy. The touch screen and usb stick slot are perfect. Asw provides premium level usage at an accessible price point. 😳What if the cables fail after many usages? Just replace them, job done. The cables are tidy as is. The money you will save with more reliable printing on this machine more than pays for new ribbon cables 💪👍👍👍. I requested the company print some small female sleeves to slide the Male end of the ribbon cable in to to ensure at packing (where my damage was made) the ribbon cable ends are protected. Filament spool: it is sound as is. Yes there are always improvements. I am currently making end use parts with this machine. Suggestion: buy a ASW, it’s an investment.
Mr Artillery Sidewinder X1 (the big brother of this machine) had something applied to the bed from the factory which I removed with alcohol after my first few prints in my noob enthusiasm to clean as well as all the guides seemed to suggest (was a lot of effort to get it all off with the bed's texture). Was't a brown residue, though, but white. Ran into some adhesion issues with PLA after that when printing a key chain that had an internal mesh (so no big base, lots of little contact lines). Messed with bed temperature a bit but ultimately resolved it with a glue stick. I think a raft might've helped for that particular part as well. Searching around I found that All3DP's 10 hour trial of the Sidewinder X1 mentioned some adhesion issues, but they didn't go into detail. Thinking Artillery started applying a coating in later models to help.
I speced the X1 for my daughters Tec lab this fall. Could not be happier with it. It’s so quite the teacher runs it all day during class. The only issue we had was the usb drive port. There are two separate PCB boards under the cover that are soldered together at a 90 degree angle with no other support. With enough use one board comes away from the other. Artillery sent us another board with the same problem. It took them three weeks to send us a replacement. To get around all this we utilize OCTO print with a raspberry pi plugged into a separate USB port on the side of the unit. In my opinion this is absolutely essential to run one of these long-term. Besides printing without OCTO print is just savage anyway. The items being designed and printed at the school are so small this printer would’ve actually worked just fine for their needs. Totally recommend this for a classroom! One last note: the manufacturer has a cure a profile available. It works extremely well. You’re going to be an extremely fussy user to tweak it any further. Between this printer and the cure profile it’s pretty much a ready to go out of the box experience.
I have had a Genius and Sidewinder x1 for over 12 months now and recently purchased the Genius Pro and have plans on getting the X2 but just got a Voron so that will take up my next month of free time lol. I love the Artillery printers especially now they have fixed the cable problems cause they were the only dramas. Thanks for sharing Joel, High Five
@@capblueberry7899 Love it dude, After more research I came to realise its not the best but a great starter, im now a good few months in with it and it is now fully customised, new extruder, motherboard, steppers, screen and a few odd printed mods, this is also why I went for it as there are lots of things out there for it. all depends what you are after, I wanted something to tinker with than setup and go kinda thing.
I loved the scene showing the noise that was drowned out by my Monoprice Maker Select Plus and Da Vinci 2.0 screaming into my left ear. I really need quieter printer lol
Don't want to step on anyone's comment if they already mentioned this, but that brownish residue you found on the towel after cleaning the build plate surface is probably the same I found on the V2 plate. It eventually stops showing it's face after a few cleanings, so maybe just a residue left over from manufacturing? Not sure, but thanks for the great review Joel!
I have had my X1 for a couple weeks now and I'm loving everything about it. I don't need a smaller printer (I have an Ender 3) but if I did, I'd pick up a Genius without hesitation. The runout sensor just works so easily.
@@3DPrintingNerd Rad dude I'll back you there as soon as I can afford to. Waiting for your CR10v2 review, loving my machine so much. Coming from a Robo R1 it's amazing how much more user friendly these printers have become. I printed a calibration cube and every side was 20.00mm exactly when measured with my Mitutoyo calipers. Was shocked. But I do have a Hemera on the way as even with the Titan swap in Creality advertised for this printer there's still the PTFE in the hotend, and that's my biggest fault to this otherwise amazing printer. Printed a Mandalorian helmet at .2mm layer height and was just astonished at how well it came out. Plus I can freaking sleep right next to it running.
I just unboxed my Artillery GENIUS 3d printer and followed the instructions given completing assembly and about to heat the bed and get it leveled, but then I ran into a problem setting thermal runaway kill codes, so I took it all back apart backtracking and found a little 3d printed box on the lower left gantry that plugs the ribbon cable in was loose, tightened that and all worked perfectly (Note: that little box is not mentioned in instructions whatsoever, but the right tool is in the kit) I am printing a stack of Covid 19 Prusa face shields now to give to ER and first responders.
@3D Printing Nerd, it is probably a PolyPropaline coating. I have an ender 3 with a PP bed and have the same problem. PLA basiclly sticks to anything while it is hot, The same is not true for PETG. PP is great for heated beds, because when it is hot is sticks great to common materials. Thus (hot) PLA and the (hot) PP bed are great with eachother because the both stick great (when hot). though PP has a real problem with heat expansion. So I recommend leveling the bed when it is on target temperature
@@The_Wosh No hate at all. The site is crap and the 'brand' name Evnovo is crap. I'm actually tempted to buy my first 3D printer on the basis of this review.
@@MrMadeinthe80s You saw the video right?, he was saying it wasn't posible to move the endstopmount. so if you replace the bolt that goes through the threaded hole in the profile, and use an t-nut instead, you can move it..
Went back to rewatch this a year later, having been mostly happy with my Genius. The line about “without any maintenance” had me laughing, though, and not in a good way. Gosh, this thing’s been kind of annoying to keep running. Still a decent printer especially for the price, though. Also, feels so weird seeing a video where Joel still ends it with “hug each other more.” This video was posted the day before the first recorded COVID-19 case in Seattle.
excellent video but I have a huge doubt how clean the bed of this printer do you use isopropyl alcohol or with what other material do you clean it? And one more question, what profile are you using for a cure? Could you share it? I can't print pieces that well with my genius
I know this might be a lot to ask for but I really don’t know too much about slicers and stuff but I do use Cura would you try to post a cura version of your slicer settings that I can use for a base to like try to modify and learn?
Hey Joel, I’ve been experimenting with 3D printing captive objects, namely rope, chain, and paracord, so using a non printed material and printing a cavity within an object to fit the object, as a proof of concept I’ve printed just a plain 12mm cube with a 3.5mm hole bored through one face and it holds a paracord rope in there pretty tightly, I’d love to see what you or possibly one of your other creators and designers could do with this idea.
I’m really interested in 3D printing but have no experience. I was looking at the Ender that came out recently for a similar price and the cheaper Prusa. Any recommendations for cheap beginner machines?
I got an ender3 recently and it's been pretty awesome. I wasn't committed enough to spend over 200 bucks. My wife got the ender3 from Walmart dot com for 165 bucks. Now I'm hooked and may look at getting a sidewinder or cr10. Its been running non stop for a week and I love it. I can't print stuff fast enough and I haven't even designed any of my own parts yet. Tons of useful things on thingiverse
Would a work around for the z limit be to add a glass sheet in top of the bed? Could that also be a good way to control the thermal expansion? Great video as always :)
Hey Johl! Will you be reviewing the snapmaker 2.0 (3d printer/laser cutter/cnc router)? It would be great to see you play with all 3 features to get an idea of how they could all be used in 1 project. Seeing you visit them in China would be great too. 👍
Nice to see companies starting to embrace modern slicers. PrusaSlicer is a fantastic, free slicer! Ridiculous that companies still ship out Cura 15 on machines.
FYI, I switched from Slic3r to Prusa Slic3r to finally Cura 4.4 and my PETG prints got 10x better. This is where I got my config, 3d-nexus.com/resources/file-archives/download/8-artillery-evnovo/5-artillery-genius-cura-4-2-1-machine-settings-profile. I should mention that I upgraded the machine to the latest version of Marlin and I use a Raspberry PI 4 and Klipper. I have less than 1 month experience in 3D printing and I think it prints pretty damn good with $22 YOYI PETG.
Hi Joel, I want to get either the Sidewinder or the Genius and I'm still rather new to 3D printing (shout out to you, Devon and Angus for introducing me to 3D printing) but I want to print at higher temperatures then 230C and be able to print in Nylon based filament. Do you have a recommendation for which all-metal hot end I should upgrade to? If not I'll just get some Capricorn PTFE tubing. The reason I ask is that I'm a high school student and I don't make much money so instead of getting more than one machine I want to make the printer I get really good.
With the zstop screwed in like that do you think you could add a glass plate to the print bed? I got my genius and after about a week now I’m have trouble getting adhesion, and it seems like my bed is dipping in the middle. Considering adding glass but I worry I would be able to get the clearance for it using just the springs.
@@3DPrintingNerd that's the plan, I just worry I won;t be able to get the clearance for the extra thickness without being able to move the z-stop. Do you things the springs would compress to allow enough clearance for the glass plate?
@@peaugh I'm assuming you've sorted it by now, but all you do is unscrew the z stop and use a T nut instead, then its adjustable :) There is even a spare T nut included in the spares bag.
Cool little printer but I feel like you mind as well spend the extra $120 or so and get the bigger better sidewinder x1 V4. Unless you know you won't ever want bigger prints or size and available space is a issue. But if it's not your already spending 300 or more just spend the little extra to get the big one.
For me, yes I would usually follow that. However, I think it's important to mention the $120 more for the X1 could also go for more filament and a GENIUS.
Noob question: He mentioned this printer isn't suitable for nylon because of the PTFE lined nozzle. Couldn't you solve that problem by swapping in a full metal nozzle? Or is there something I'm missing?
would seem to me the placement of usb and micro sd slot would get print plastic pieces in them. Also i have always print petg on masking tape sprayed with water woodglue mix. no heat on bed and on a raft always works.
Just for you to know, I have 2 ender 3 and a X1, wich is exactly like the genius, but bigger. The Genius comes with silent stepper drivers, filament sensor and direct drive extruder, wich are key features. Also high voltage bed, touchscreen, filament change feature, synchronized z steppers, etc
You can upgrage Ender3 with all the extra features of the Genius, so it's mostly a question whether you want to add them yourself or prefer to have them right out of the box.
*"FAN WARNING!" :D* If somebody wants to replace a standard fan ("sleeve") to a (probably) quiter "ball bearing" type, be careful when buying them on AliExpress, BanGood or eBay from Chinese sellers! I've bought "GDSTime" 24v 5015 blower fan recently and it shows the signs of a sleeve instead of two bearings (as they claim). The price is x2-3 times more than a usual "sleeve" type. The rotor just leans on a side (the whole part!) if you press a bit on that side. When it's not a forge then the bearings must hold a rotor perpendicular to the fan's base. So I've made the conclusion that it's a sleeve type. It's pretty loud and I suppose it's the same loudness that will be replaced (will hear this soon). My pal advised me to buy an original fan from Delta Electronics (as they make 24v fans). Usually it's good to get a Sunon (if you're on 12v printer).
Considering whether to buy the anycubic mega i3 S or this one. I usually dont print with other filaments but it would be fun to try out some new materials. Any Ideas on this?
You do not mention repairability, particularly what you have to do when filament gets stuck inside the PTFE tube. How much disassembly? Is it tricky to get apart and tricky to get back together?
I want to get into 3dp as a hobby, so this would be a nice machine to start on. Still, I will probably go for the Prusa Mini, because of its auto bed leveling, ability to take inputs via OctoPrint and the 32 bit board (couldn't find out which board the Artillery3D GENIUS has, but if it was a stand-out feature, they would advertise it). Opinions?
I know it's a 3-year old comment but to answer this question for future users, it comes with an 8-bit MKS GEN L board. Also has built in ABL ready components(Just need to buy the BLtouch, or use the z endstop that hooks up to the board on the toolhead) and is also able to take inputs via octoprint. Love my genius, which now has a SKR 1.4T and runs klipper. This video is the reason I bought my genius. The z endstop is able to be moved with the included aluminum extrusion nut holder that comes with the kit in the bag.
If you have the money to spend on a Prusa, go for it. If it hurt your pocket, don't go as a beginner. Prusa's support is amazing, quality control is amazing, overall you aren't just paying for the printer. If you want a machine that "just works" for quite some time: Prusa. Quality costs money.
@@AvivMakesRobots not really. I am part of several artillery groups because of a giveaway and honestly. they seem to have solid support. their social media people are active. broken parts and big issues seem to be fixed by them directly. they seem to send out new/updated parts to their customers. the community is large and active. I have been trying to get a solid answer about the MK3S X ideaMaker for weeks and they just....dont answer/ignore it because "ermergurdPrusaSlicer is da best"
@@itsretrover I was pleased to hear they have good product support. I did not know this before. It is a must for buying a 3D printer (especially a consumer level one).
Have you tried using this with the Mosaic Palette? Any thoughts on how to mount it to this machine? I've been trying to decide on Artillery Genius (or Sidewinder) with a Palette, vs. a Prusa i3 with multimaterial.
Would this be good for making small cosplay stuff like small masks, lightsaber hilts, armor pieces etc. Cause I've been recommended the CR 10 v2 but if a cheaper one can do what I want, even if I have to do more work to finish it, then I'll take it.
@@voktanagain5106 that's what I was thinking like sure it would be cool to print every single kind of filament but realistically Lightsaber hilts only need like 5 to 8 inches of height.
@@StormyTehWolf Well If you dont mind fixing the printer and Tuning it now an then an Ender 3 would be the cheapest Option. Sidewinder is the easiest printer to Setup Out of the box
Me too. Can get this for 260 euro, ender 3 for 220 or ender 3 pro for 260. I'm about to bite the bullet so input greatly appreciated. Love that foam print.
NO WAY my unicorn keychain made it on 3DPN!!! WOW
here's my design for anyone that wants one: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2641490
I'm going to get this machine when I can, but I wanted to point out the fact that you have amazing studio quality content and yet under 400k subscribers. That's a friggin CRIME. 3D printing is basically mainstream at the moment and you're the only one out of everyone else I watch with such quality.
Double Dose thank you so much for that comment. Hearing that means a lot to the people behind the scenes! :)
Bless your heart, my friend.
Pretty crazy for the price, just like its bigger brother. I still think that spool holder is SOO annoying though! I wish they'd bring out a gigantic version with the same components haha
Hi, I was considering buying the Sidewinder X1, but I'm not sure about the cables. Do you think they did anything about them? If anything that could be the dealbreaker for me. Thanks and continue the great work of yours. ;)
Everything you said would make it AWESOME!
They should just ship with a closet rod and some brackets for your wall :)
Might as well grab the new Creality at this price range.
I bought a ASW. Arrived with ribbon to extruder bent. Printed ok then started to show issues the same as a failing filament motor when cog teeth break. Fix was replace the cable. Prints sound now. Got it down to 40 microns resolution. Prints are sound in PLA so far. To stop the z wobble: print speed: 24 mm/s . Flow for mine is best at 90%. Not tried other materials / composites yet. The noisiest part of the printer is the rapid Y movement on some prints. I recently reduced the print speed for walls down to 12 mm/s. This has reduced the NVF & thudding noise but not 100%. This has resulted in a 6 hour print becoming 8.5hrs. The bed requires NO glue or additional things to stick prints down. This bed, mixed with the filament sensor has resulted in more successful prints which reduce costs. I have used low cost PLA, all work sound to date. My opinion of the ASW is the machine to date is a very good buy. The touch screen and usb stick slot are perfect. Asw provides premium level usage at an accessible price point.
😳What if the cables fail after many usages? Just replace them, job done. The cables are tidy as is. The money you will save with more reliable printing on this machine more than pays for new ribbon cables 💪👍👍👍.
I requested the company print some small female sleeves to slide the Male end of the ribbon cable in to to ensure at packing (where my damage was made) the ribbon cable ends are protected.
Filament spool: it is sound as is. Yes there are always improvements. I am currently making end use parts with this machine. Suggestion: buy a ASW, it’s an investment.
I just got it new for $200, its a pretty great deal! I can't wait to set it up.
Mr Artillery Sidewinder X1 (the big brother of this machine) had something applied to the bed from the factory which I removed with alcohol after my first few prints in my noob enthusiasm to clean as well as all the guides seemed to suggest (was a lot of effort to get it all off with the bed's texture). Was't a brown residue, though, but white. Ran into some adhesion issues with PLA after that when printing a key chain that had an internal mesh (so no big base, lots of little contact lines). Messed with bed temperature a bit but ultimately resolved it with a glue stick. I think a raft might've helped for that particular part as well. Searching around I found that All3DP's 10 hour trial of the Sidewinder X1 mentioned some adhesion issues, but they didn't go into detail. Thinking Artillery started applying a coating in later models to help.
I speced the X1 for my daughters Tec lab this fall.
Could not be happier with it.
It’s so quite the teacher runs it all day during class. The only issue we had was the usb drive port. There are two separate PCB boards under the cover that are soldered together at a 90 degree angle with no other support. With enough use one board comes away from the other. Artillery sent us another board with the same problem. It took them three weeks to send us a replacement. To get around all this we utilize OCTO print with a raspberry pi plugged into a separate USB port on the side of the unit.
In my opinion this is absolutely essential to run one of these long-term. Besides printing without OCTO print is just savage anyway.
The items being designed and printed at the school are so small this printer would’ve actually worked just fine for their needs. Totally recommend this for a classroom!
One last note: the manufacturer has a cure a profile available. It works extremely well. You’re going to be an extremely fussy user to tweak it any further. Between this printer and the cure profile it’s pretty much a ready to go out of the box experience.
I have had a Genius and Sidewinder x1 for over 12 months now and recently purchased the Genius Pro and have plans on getting the X2 but just got a Voron so that will take up my next month of free time lol. I love the Artillery printers especially now they have fixed the cable problems cause they were the only dramas. Thanks for sharing Joel, High Five
Thanks for watching! #ReturnFive
You guys always looked baked af..... This made me buy the Genius Printer :) thank you
How is it?
@@capblueberry7899 Love it dude, After more research I came to realise its not the best but a great starter, im now a good few months in with it and it is now fully customised, new extruder, motherboard, steppers, screen and a few odd printed mods, this is also why I went for it as there are lots of things out there for it. all depends what you are after, I wanted something to tinker with than setup and go kinda thing.
@@Doyle69 ok, thanks
@@Doyle69 If you knew, what you know now, which printer would you have bought instead?
The printer looks like it prints great. And that foam filament looks amazing! It’s gonna be so awesome for prop making and cosplayers.
I can’t believe the studio quality that you guys can achieve. It’s just incredible.
Loved the Slip and Fall Down PETG clip! :-)
SEAN ... THE SCENE FROM HOME ALONE PETG NO HOLD HAD ME LAUGHING MY BUTT OFF ! GOOD JOB !
I loved the scene showing the noise that was drowned out by my Monoprice Maker Select Plus and Da Vinci 2.0 screaming into my left ear. I really need quieter printer lol
Those big black-wrapped boxes in the back are intriguing
I like the new 101 tips you are adding in your videos :)
Thank you!
"My youngest likes turtles..."
Michael Reeves would like to know your location
NIGHTMARE NIGHTMARE NIGHTMARE
Don't want to step on anyone's comment if they already mentioned this, but that brownish residue you found on the towel after cleaning the build plate surface is probably the same I found on the V2 plate. It eventually stops showing it's face after a few cleanings, so maybe just a residue left over from manufacturing? Not sure, but thanks for the great review Joel!
Have the same experience. And the surface works better when it is all gone.
@@DE3US Totally agree!
I have had my X1 for a couple weeks now and I'm loving everything about it. I don't need a smaller printer (I have an Ender 3) but if I did, I'd pick up a Genius without hesitation. The runout sensor just works so easily.
Good on you for supporting and using Floatplane.
I really like what the platform is aiming to do, and after some conversations with Luke, it was a no-brainer.
@@3DPrintingNerd Rad dude I'll back you there as soon as I can afford to. Waiting for your CR10v2 review, loving my machine so much. Coming from a Robo R1 it's amazing how much more user friendly these printers have become. I printed a calibration cube and every side was 20.00mm exactly when measured with my Mitutoyo calipers. Was shocked. But I do have a Hemera on the way as even with the Titan swap in Creality advertised for this printer there's still the PTFE in the hotend, and that's my biggest fault to this otherwise amazing printer. Printed a Mandalorian helmet at .2mm layer height and was just astonished at how well it came out. Plus I can freaking sleep right next to it running.
Thanks a lot. Now I gotta go find me some Snyder's pretzels
YES YOU DO
I just unboxed my Artillery GENIUS 3d printer and followed the instructions given completing assembly and about to heat the bed and get it leveled, but then I ran into a problem setting thermal runaway kill codes, so I took it all back apart backtracking and found a little 3d printed box on the lower left gantry that plugs the ribbon cable in was loose, tightened that and all worked perfectly (Note: that little box is not mentioned in instructions whatsoever, but the right tool is in the kit) I am printing a stack of Covid 19 Prusa face shields now to give to ER and first responders.
@3D Printing Nerd, it is probably a PolyPropaline coating. I have an ender 3 with a PP bed and have the same problem. PLA basiclly sticks to anything while it is hot, The same is not true for PETG. PP is great for heated beds, because when it is hot is sticks great to common materials.
Thus (hot) PLA and the (hot) PP bed are great with eachother because the both stick great (when hot).
though PP has a real problem with heat expansion. So I recommend leveling the bed when it is on target temperature
T-Nut and shorter screw allows for Z sensor movement. Yellow "golden tears" is a manufacturing glaze that washes off. Clean with IPA.
you should get the Anycubic Chiron it has a build space of 400 millimeters by 400 millimeters by 450 millimeters
Do you think it would be better to go for this or the Ender 3 V2?
I'm wondering the same thing. I haven't gotten an answer from anyone yet unfortunately.
That’s a good question. I have a V2 just need to put it together then I’ll use it and see which one I like more.
@@3DPrintingNerd Looking forward to hearing your thoughts!
@@3DPrintingNerd any news about that? I have been eyeing the Genius for some time now and just can't make up my mind.
Shoot, I haven’t had a chance to assemble the V2 yet. I apologize
It'a a solid printer, but with no enclosure, it doesn't seem like "prosumer". Rather just a very good hobbiest printer.
Yup. Agreed.
Everything you print is cool Joel.
I thought Artillery changed their name to avoid Customs hassles?
I think they just added a 3D to it so it became Artillery3D.
For shipping they use the (crap) name Evnovo now but on their (crap) website they are Artillery.
@@MrNursi why the hate?
@@The_Wosh No hate at all. The site is crap and the 'brand' name Evnovo is crap. I'm actually tempted to buy my first 3D printer on the basis of this review.
Really tempted to get a Sidewinder X1.. Would be a nice upgrade from my Anet A6. lol
z-sensor, shorter bolt and an t-nut?
Damm right
Thats what everyone is doing if they arent adding a BLTouch.
@@MrMadeinthe80s You saw the video right?, he was saying it wasn't posible to move the endstopmount. so if you replace the bolt that goes through the threaded hole in the profile, and use an t-nut instead, you can move it..
Yeah that's what I was getting at. I did the shorter bolt and t nut on my X1 initially but moved to the BLTouch once I found the firmware for it.
The other side of the spool holder is also adjustable, accommodating an even wider range of spool widths
Weird - on mine only one side was adjustable
@@3DPrintingNerd th-cam.com/video/b-zoQc93OgY/w-d-xo.html
Awesome sweatshirt. I'm on my way to order one. Great video too
What do you guys think of the artillery genius pro?
I got the sidewinder, its an awesome machine
Always purple💜👍🏼
Just use a tnut and a shorter screw, you can move the z endstop easily
Yes, that is a great solution. Maybe Artillery3D should implement it :)
@@3DPrintingNerd I really think that was the first revision. Then they drilled and tapped and fix mounted it to "idiot proof" the unit.
But also they include in the spare kit a t-nut and the screw!
That's a nice detail
Great video, thorough and fun as always.
Went back to rewatch this a year later, having been mostly happy with my Genius. The line about “without any maintenance” had me laughing, though, and not in a good way. Gosh, this thing’s been kind of annoying to keep running. Still a decent printer especially for the price, though.
Also, feels so weird seeing a video where Joel still ends it with “hug each other more.” This video was posted the day before the first recorded COVID-19 case in Seattle.
excellent video but I have a huge doubt how clean the bed of this printer do you use isopropyl alcohol or with what other material do you clean it?
And one more question, what profile are you using for a cure? Could you share it? I can't print pieces that well with my genius
awesome video!!! just a quick question why is more expensive on amazon and is banggod secure??
I know this might be a lot to ask for but I really don’t know too much about slicers and stuff but I do use Cura would you try to post a cura version of your slicer settings that I can use for a base to like try to modify and learn?
Cura 4.8 has now built in Genius and X1 profiles
i think you missed to mention, that its "ready " for a autoleveling sensor. otherwise great review
Yes I did, thanks for the heads up
Hey Joel, I’ve been experimenting with 3D printing captive objects, namely rope, chain, and paracord, so using a non printed material and printing a cavity within an object to fit the object, as a proof of concept I’ve printed just a plain 12mm cube with a 3.5mm hole bored through one face and it holds a paracord rope in there pretty tightly, I’d love to see what you or possibly one of your other creators and designers could do with this idea.
I’m really interested in 3D printing but have no experience. I was looking at the Ender that came out recently for a similar price and the cheaper Prusa. Any recommendations for cheap beginner machines?
pkextra A comment below asked this and everyone responded for the extra money get the Genius
Bossymandias By the way, love the name. Thanks for the advice
I got an ender3 recently and it's been pretty awesome. I wasn't committed enough to spend over 200 bucks. My wife got the ender3 from Walmart dot com for 165 bucks. Now I'm hooked and may look at getting a sidewinder or cr10. Its been running non stop for a week and I love it. I can't print stuff fast enough and I haven't even designed any of my own parts yet. Tons of useful things on thingiverse
Would a work around for the z limit be to add a glass sheet in top of the bed? Could that also be a good way to control the thermal expansion?
Great video as always :)
Can you compare this printer to the sw artillery x1 ??
Hey Johl! Will you be reviewing the snapmaker 2.0 (3d printer/laser cutter/cnc router)? It would be great to see you play with all 3 features to get an idea of how they could all be used in 1 project. Seeing you visit them in China would be great too. 👍
I would like to see more of the breakdown of the components under the hood.
How is it on fine details?
Can't wait until they X2 releases!
What bed and nozzle temp changes did you do when printing PETG?
Nice to see companies starting to embrace modern slicers. PrusaSlicer is a fantastic, free slicer! Ridiculous that companies still ship out Cura 15 on machines.
It is a little unsettling when instructions for a super old version of Cura are referenced.
FYI, I switched from Slic3r to Prusa Slic3r to finally Cura 4.4 and my PETG prints got 10x better. This is where I got my config, 3d-nexus.com/resources/file-archives/download/8-artillery-evnovo/5-artillery-genius-cura-4-2-1-machine-settings-profile. I should mention that I upgraded the machine to the latest version of Marlin and I use a Raspberry PI 4 and Klipper. I have less than 1 month experience in 3D printing and I think it prints pretty damn good with $22 YOYI PETG.
Hi Joel, I want to get either the Sidewinder or the Genius and I'm still rather new to 3D printing (shout out to you, Devon and Angus for introducing me to 3D printing) but I want to print at higher temperatures then 230C and be able to print in Nylon based filament. Do you have a recommendation for which all-metal hot end I should upgrade to? If not I'll just get some Capricorn PTFE tubing. The reason I ask is that I'm a high school student and I don't make much money so instead of getting more than one machine I want to make the printer I get really good.
Joel: I can't believe I broke it
Sean: I can
What happened to that whole name change thing? I do admit that Artillery sounds better than Envovo though, so I’m glad they kept it.
4:00 You could just have stuck a piece of metal to the Z-axis to trigger the sensor earlier instead of trying to move the sensor.
With the zstop screwed in like that do you think you could add a glass plate to the print bed? I got my genius and after about a week now I’m have trouble getting adhesion, and it seems like my bed is dipping in the middle. Considering adding glass but I worry I would be able to get the clearance for it using just the springs.
Adding a glass plate sure would help!
@@3DPrintingNerd that's the plan, I just worry I won;t be able to get the clearance for the extra thickness without being able to move the z-stop. Do you things the springs would compress to allow enough clearance for the glass plate?
@@peaugh I'm assuming you've sorted it by now, but all you do is unscrew the z stop and use a T nut instead, then its adjustable :) There is even a spare T nut included in the spares bag.
Cool little printer but I feel like you mind as well spend the extra $120 or so and get the bigger better sidewinder x1 V4. Unless you know you won't ever want bigger prints or size and available space is a issue. But if it's not your already spending 300 or more just spend the little extra to get the big one.
For me, yes I would usually follow that. However, I think it's important to mention the $120 more for the X1 could also go for more filament and a GENIUS.
The Genius is Joel Telling!
Can you make a video about hot isostatic pressing (HIP) ?
I just got an ender 3 pro for 200 bucks. Just get one of those since they are the most common and easiest to get help with.
Most common, but I don't have one and never used one :)
I wish that was out when I stared my 3D printing Journey. I think it is as good/better then the ender3/pro
Is there a place I can go to see your picks for best 3D printers on the cheap?
how do you think this compares to the Ender 3 v2, and which would you recommend to a beginner?
This is many levels better, absolutely recommended to a beginner!
+1👍 💪 Answered my materials question early on, TY!
Can it be used to print money so I can buy it?
can you make comparison with Prusa?
not sure how you get such good prints. I been having trouble with my printer printing stuff correctly lol.
Hi, what slicer settings were you using?
Hi, Joel! Why not to use a t-nut to fix the z-switch sensor on any other height? Are these profiles V-slot?
Would you recommend this or the prusa mini???
Noob question: He mentioned this printer isn't suitable for nylon because of the PTFE lined nozzle. Couldn't you solve that problem by swapping in a full metal nozzle? Or is there something I'm missing?
You sure could
for figurines, would you recommend this one? or a resin based?
Obviusly a resin its the best for tiny things, its just the resolution(25 microns vs 100 microns)
nice video i am also started with 3D printing
its the golden tears of Creality 😂😂😂😂
that made me chuckle
would seem to me the placement of usb and micro sd slot would get print plastic pieces in them. Also i have always print petg on masking tape sprayed with water woodglue mix. no heat on bed and on a raft always works.
Ender 3 pro or this for a beginner?
I would go for the genius, better stock features
If you're willing to splurge, this. It's so damn quiet and has a direct drive.
Just for you to know, I have 2 ender 3 and a X1, wich is exactly like the genius, but bigger.
The Genius comes with silent stepper drivers, filament sensor and direct drive extruder, wich are key features.
Also high voltage bed, touchscreen, filament change feature, synchronized z steppers, etc
@@piccoleitor thanks
You can upgrage Ender3 with all the extra features of the Genius, so it's mostly a question whether you want to add them yourself or prefer to have them right out of the box.
*"FAN WARNING!" :D*
If somebody wants to replace a standard fan ("sleeve") to a (probably) quiter "ball bearing" type, be careful when buying them on AliExpress, BanGood or eBay from Chinese sellers!
I've bought "GDSTime" 24v 5015 blower fan recently and it shows the signs of a sleeve instead of two bearings (as they claim). The price is x2-3 times more than a usual "sleeve" type.
The rotor just leans on a side (the whole part!) if you press a bit on that side. When it's not a forge then the bearings must hold a rotor perpendicular to the fan's base. So I've made the conclusion that it's a sleeve type. It's pretty loud and I suppose it's the same loudness that will be replaced (will hear this soon).
My pal advised me to buy an original fan from Delta Electronics (as they make 24v fans). Usually it's good to get a Sunon (if you're on 12v printer).
This thing seems to be exactly like an Anet ET4, with a different extruder.
Looks like a nice printer though ❤️
Considering whether to buy the anycubic mega i3 S or this one. I usually dont print with other filaments but it would be fun to try out some new materials. Any Ideas on this?
"I decided to print something cool"......dude you just 3d printed chainmail, that's pretty cool.
That's a very good point
You do not mention repairability, particularly what you have to do when filament gets stuck inside the PTFE tube. How much disassembly? Is it tricky to get apart and tricky to get back together?
Have a look at my Sidewinder X1 episode, I linked it in the description. The hot end setup is exactly the same, and I cover it there.
@@3DPrintingNerd Thanks much. I will do that.
I want to get into 3dp as a hobby, so this would be a nice machine to start on. Still, I will probably go for the Prusa Mini, because of its auto bed leveling, ability to take inputs via OctoPrint and the 32 bit board (couldn't find out which board the Artillery3D GENIUS has, but if it was a stand-out feature, they would advertise it). Opinions?
I know it's a 3-year old comment but to answer this question for future users, it comes with an 8-bit MKS GEN L board. Also has built in ABL ready components(Just need to buy the BLtouch, or use the z endstop that hooks up to the board on the toolhead) and is also able to take inputs via octoprint. Love my genius, which now has a SKR 1.4T and runs klipper.
This video is the reason I bought my genius. The z endstop is able to be moved with the included aluminum extrusion nut holder that comes with the kit in the bag.
@@MrPanaramuh Thx
Debating between this and Prusa I3 MKS. Is Prusa that much better for someone new to printing?
If you have the money to spend on a Prusa, go for it. If it hurt your pocket, don't go as a beginner.
Prusa's support is amazing, quality control is amazing, overall you aren't just paying for the printer. If you want a machine that "just works" for quite some time: Prusa. Quality costs money.
This is £289 here in the Uk, but the import taxes etc push it way over that.
Its a shame the filament sensor is linked to the TFT and not the mainboard. Means octoprint doesnt know it ran out and keeps on printing.
is it not possible to separate the glass from the base? to remove the printed object
no, the glass bed has the 4 screws glued to it.
Hi, Joel, how are the cable connections to the break-out board? Are they just tension-based as on the Sidewinder X1? Thanks. RSVP.
Yes, totally the same
@@3DPrintingNerd Thanks for the answer. Only the nice prints for you. ;)
I don't see how this is 50 percent better than an ender 3
Joels eyes are always scorched red af!!! Js
Very true. Chronic blepharitis. It sucks.
Hello Joel, Great review!!
Where did you find the grinch?? :)
You can find it here:cults3d.com/en/users/DreamStarter/creations
I have spools of PLA that have become very brittle. Any thoughts or advise?
Any idea what main board this guy's running?
This is listed at $349 from Artillery now and $449 elsewhere.
It's cheaper than a Prusa Mini, I wonder if Artillery has back orders until March or later.
Exactly. It is cheaper, but there is likely less product tech support than with the Prusa. Prusa has an outstanding troubleshooting community as well.
@@AvivMakesRobots not really. I am part of several artillery groups because of a giveaway and honestly. they seem to have solid support. their social media people are active. broken parts and big issues seem to be fixed by them directly. they seem to send out new/updated parts to their customers. the community is large and active. I have been trying to get a solid answer about the MK3S X ideaMaker for weeks and they just....dont answer/ignore it because "ermergurdPrusaSlicer is da best"
@@itsretrover I was pleased to hear they have good product support. I did not know this before. It is a must for buying a 3D printer (especially a consumer level one).
I would happily wait for a machine from a reputable vendor.
Have you tried using this with the Mosaic Palette? Any thoughts on how to mount it to this machine? I've been trying to decide on Artillery Genius (or Sidewinder) with a Palette, vs. a Prusa i3 with multimaterial.
I ended up getting it and I just mounted the Palette to the front of the workbench that I keep it on. Works great.
Would this be good for making small cosplay stuff like small masks, lightsaber hilts, armor pieces etc. Cause I've been recommended the CR 10 v2 but if a cheaper one can do what I want, even if I have to do more work to finish it, then I'll take it.
In my opinion it is even better than the cr10.
@@voktanagain5106 that's what I was thinking like sure it would be cool to print every single kind of filament but realistically Lightsaber hilts only need like 5 to 8 inches of height.
@@StormyTehWolf Well If you dont mind fixing the printer and Tuning it now an then an Ender 3 would be the cheapest Option.
Sidewinder is the easiest printer to Setup Out of the box
Hi Joel. I like your videos. I think the biggest community of 3D is in the USA. Do you know any community in Japan Joel?
question? how does the GENIUS come to the ender 3 on price would like to see a review on ender3 against the genius
Me too. Can get this for 260 euro, ender 3 for 220 or ender 3 pro for 260. I'm about to bite the bullet so input greatly appreciated. Love that foam print.