Driven clutch is on backwards, It's opening up when you take off, it's supposed to open at higher RPM's. The 30 and 40 series clutches can not be used together.The 30's series clutch uses a different belt than the 40's series. 30 series clutches are asymmetrical, one side of the inner clutch where the belt rides is almost flat and the opposite side is tapered. The clutches have to be installed with the the tapered and flat sides lined up with each other. The belt has a flat side and a tapered side and has to be installed in the correct direction. The 40 series clutches are symmetrical, both sides of chlutch halves have a taper so the clutches can be installed in either direction to line up your belt. The belt can be installed in either direction unless it is marked directional. The driven clutch spring will need to be replaced with a forward or reverse spring when reversing the direction of the driven clutch. Hope this helps someone out.
I've got a Baja Warrior MB 200 that I Vtwin swapped about 2 years ago with almost 3K miles on it. I swapped out the carb to a 34mm round slide off of a Honda dirtbike after fabicating an intake manifold adapter (required cutting ithe center section out of the factory intake and replacing it with my fabricated adapter ). It dropped a valve (the stock valve spring retainers ar cheap stamp steel and at sustained RPM over 4K the valve and keepers can pull right through the retainers ) . Since I had to replace a valve I went ahead and pulled both heads, did a mild port and polish (I used to do headwork and run a flow bench for a living so I kinda felt like I had to) and then replaced the stock retainers with machined steel ones and swapped out the soft stock springs with some 25 lb springs to eliminate valve float that was occurring around 4500 RPM. The only drawback to the heavier springs is it gets a bit noisy, sounds like loose valve lash but its not (the stock cam has a specially ground profile with "Quietning Ramps" to allow nearly silent valve train but they are only effective with the very weak stock springs) I also removed the factory compression release mechanism entirely, because I was paranoid about it possibly coming apart during sustained high speed running. I'm running a cluth that I made using parts fom a Chinese ATV centrifugal clutch and parts from a regular 40 series centrifugal clutch, as the cheap 40 series centrifugal clutch would slip horribly if I used over 1/4 throttle below about 25 miles perhour. I was running a 14 tooth clutch driving a 24 tooth sprocket on a jackshaft, on the output side of the jackshaft a 12 tooth driving a 32 tooth rear wheel sprocket. This was good for 79 mph while still accelerating extremely hard. I've since replaced the 12 tooth to an 18 tooth to reduce RPM at a sustained 62-65 mph cruising speed. If you're interested you can see a 36 second video of me and my minibike on my TH-cam channel, Buck Kowalski, which is my other TH-cam account. Its a cool little video.
👆 is right. Add some washers behind the driver and that will bring it out even with the driven. You shouldn't have a problem after that aside from that just run a tapered belt.🤘
One of the nicer v twin mini bikes I have seen. Looks like all you did was heat and "clearance" that top tube to clear the valve cover to fit that v twin in, is that right? I have a couple v twin projects in the works, one is a mega moto mega max frame and the other is a old manco 3 wheeler.when you get that 40 series on that thing is gonna really rip.
I know that thing vibrates. My predator 212 makes the same power. Lighter no vibration same power. Still awesome though. I think I'm about to ride my mini now
Nice just want you to realize that I'm getting ready to upgrade that engine and it's probably going to be pushing more along lines of 30 horsepower and it really doesn't vibrate too bad. It's the front tire it makes it vibrate.
This engine makes 18hp 26ft lb of tourque at 3600 RPM stock. And currently it has no governor and I allow it to rev to damn near 6500 RPM so I have a pretty damn good feeling it's making about 22 horse at about 30 to 35 foot pounds of tourque. And that's not even modded yet!
@@heavystarch100 I have stroker crank. 72mm piston. 28/32 big valve head. Ported polished and shaved 65 thousandths 308 cam 60lb springs. 1.3 ratio rockers. 28mm flat side carb makes 20.5 HP. Lol ghost motor is a joke. Someone who is dumb enough to waist $300 on a ghost motor is a moron that clearly doesn't know sh.. that's why you would be dumb enough to buy ghost motor
I have since changed the entire torque converter. But I had a 40 series ( double taper \_/ ) primary clutch and a 30 series ( single taper l_/ ) secondary clutch with a 30 series belt. So completely wrong set up but hey it worked for testing.
Another reason your belt is tearing up your pullies are not aligned. You need to align the front pully to be even with the rear pully. You do this by putting shims on the crankshaft behind the front pully until it is even with the rear.
The governor arm was left on so that I could spring load the governor as an attempt to prevent it from blowing up and all the parts going through the motor and destroying the engine. I had always planned to completely remove it. As spring loading it was a temporary solution.
@@crazybuilder1412 you could be doing alot faster if you change the gearing around that sprocket way to small for that engine I have a 301cc and I have a 72tooth sprocket maybe more it's about the same size tire and had it 66 and still had more power
I could easily gear it to go faster but the bearings and suspension on that thing are not designed to be going that fast in the first place and I want the take off tourque.
I'm thinking about it I can definitely do it. I am a machinist after all. but currently the pipes are connected to the rear arm and I don't want to change them. But I probably will.
What you're saying most people that do anything with these engines are already know. And either there's something wrong with the alignment of your clutches or your using cheap belts.
I was using an 40 series primary clutch (double taper) with a 30 series secondary (single taper with flat one side) which is the wrong setup but it is fixed now.
Well... you're not supposed to run a 30 series on big block, that engine has too much power... and definitely not a 30s with a 40s... You wear the belt unevenly, and it has too much power
The mini bike doesn't have a manual transmission (although I wish it did) it has a cvt (constant variable transmission) and the belt is the main part of that setup it can change positions on the two pulleys to create an infinite amount of ratios between it's highest and lowest capabilities. Meaning that it has a low rato (high rpm on the engine and low rpm of the tire) when you take off giving you alot of torque to the wheel and when the bike gets up to speed The cvt automatically changes to a higher ratio (less torque for more speed) to give you the lowest engine rpms for the speed you are going also increasing the top speed at wide open. The new cvt works well after I put a comet belt on it and the belt slip is what makes the clutch work.
Your belts are eating up because it’s completely installed wrong and not lined up correctly……I never understood all the work to put these big engines in a mini bike frame. My Coleman runs 55mph and I have about 400 bucks into it. Motor build and torque converter
I know all about the old torque converter issues and it has already been replaced. Plus putting a big engine in my bike was for the sheer amount of torque it can put out. With the right sprocket this bike could easily go 80 to 100mph I just don't want it to. So it's geared for 55mph. And it gets there in less than 2 seconds.
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Driven clutch is on backwards, It's opening up when you take off, it's supposed to open at higher RPM's. The 30 and 40 series clutches can not be used together.The 30's series clutch uses a different belt than the 40's series. 30 series clutches are asymmetrical, one side of the inner clutch where the belt rides is almost flat and the opposite side is tapered. The clutches have to be installed with the the tapered and flat sides lined up with each other. The belt has a flat side and a tapered side and has to be installed in the correct direction. The 40 series clutches are symmetrical, both sides of chlutch halves have a taper so the clutches can be installed in either direction to line up your belt. The belt can be installed in either direction unless it is marked directional. The driven clutch spring will need to be replaced with a forward or reverse spring when reversing the direction of the driven clutch. Hope this helps someone out.
That looks so OEM the way it fills out the frame.
I've got a Baja Warrior MB 200 that I Vtwin swapped about 2 years ago with almost 3K miles on it. I swapped out the carb to a 34mm round slide off of a Honda dirtbike after fabicating an intake manifold adapter (required cutting ithe center section out of the factory intake and replacing it with my fabricated adapter ). It dropped a valve (the stock valve spring retainers ar cheap stamp steel and at sustained RPM over 4K the valve and keepers can pull right through the retainers ) . Since I had to replace a valve I went ahead and pulled both heads, did a mild port and polish (I used to do headwork and run a flow bench for a living so I kinda felt like I had to) and then replaced the stock retainers with machined steel ones and swapped out the soft stock springs with some 25 lb springs to eliminate valve float that was occurring around 4500 RPM. The only drawback to the heavier springs is it gets a bit noisy, sounds like loose valve lash but its not (the stock cam has a specially ground profile with "Quietning Ramps" to allow nearly silent valve train but they are only effective with the very weak stock springs) I also removed the factory compression release mechanism entirely, because I was paranoid about it possibly coming apart during sustained high speed running. I'm running a cluth that I made using parts fom a Chinese ATV centrifugal clutch and parts from a regular 40 series centrifugal clutch, as the cheap 40 series centrifugal clutch would slip horribly if I used over 1/4 throttle below about 25 miles perhour. I was running a 14 tooth clutch driving a 24 tooth sprocket on a jackshaft, on the output side of the jackshaft a 12 tooth driving a 32 tooth rear wheel sprocket. This was good for 79 mph while still accelerating extremely hard. I've since replaced the 12 tooth to an 18 tooth to reduce RPM at a sustained 62-65 mph cruising speed. If you're interested you can see a 36 second video of me and my minibike on my TH-cam channel, Buck Kowalski, which is my other TH-cam account. Its a cool little video.
You have to make sure the belt in lined up perfectly or you will keep chewing the belts up ive had the same belt on mine for 4 months still looks good
That and don't run a flat side belt on a taper.
👆 is right. Add some washers behind the driver and that will bring it out even with the driven. You shouldn't have a problem after that aside from that just run a tapered belt.🤘
i can’t wait for it to be finished
Me too the new clutch is on the way
You even got a bricknose! I use to have 2. One blew a head gasket and two weeks ago, the other caught on fire and most of the truck melted
you should try a 40 series and make sure your drivers are lined up i used a 40 30 on my big trike forever worked great
I did in part 4 and it does work good
that aint no mini bike, thats a whole ass harley!
One of the nicer v twin mini bikes I have seen. Looks like all you did was heat and "clearance" that top tube to clear the valve cover to fit that v twin in, is that right? I have a couple v twin projects in the works, one is a mega moto mega max frame and the other is a old manco 3 wheeler.when you get that 40 series on that thing is gonna really rip.
I did clearance the frame but I did beef up the frame around it
very quiet. nice sounds
I know that thing vibrates. My predator 212 makes the same power. Lighter no vibration same power. Still awesome though. I think I'm about to ride my mini now
Nice just want you to realize that I'm getting ready to upgrade that engine and it's probably going to be pushing more along lines of 30 horsepower and it really doesn't vibrate too bad. It's the front tire it makes it vibrate.
This engine makes 18hp 26ft lb of tourque at 3600 RPM stock. And currently it has no governor and I allow it to rev to damn near 6500 RPM so I have a pretty damn good feeling it's making about 22 horse at about 30 to 35 foot pounds of tourque. And that's not even modded yet!
I just bought a air cooled yz250 motor. After I rebuild it. Going on my full suspension doodlebug
Same power? Naw... I own a Ghost and just rebuilt a 212 hemi, they aren't close to a v twin Predator stock.
@@heavystarch100 I have stroker crank. 72mm piston. 28/32 big valve head. Ported polished and shaved 65 thousandths 308 cam 60lb springs. 1.3 ratio rockers. 28mm flat side carb makes 20.5 HP. Lol ghost motor is a joke. Someone who is dumb enough to waist $300 on a ghost motor is a moron that clearly doesn't know sh.. that's why you would be dumb enough to buy ghost motor
Nice work
Thanks
Have you ever thought about using a mikuni carburetor
Yes I do plan to dual carb it in the future
But with mikuni's being over $200 a piece I can't afford it right now
Guess I'm not mistaken, it appears you have the belt on backwards, but I might be wrong as it's hard to tell from here.
I have since changed the entire torque converter. But I had a 40 series ( double taper \_/ ) primary clutch and a 30 series ( single taper l_/ ) secondary clutch with a 30 series belt. So completely wrong set up but hey it worked for testing.
those V-twins have a good price tag? I found it cheaper to fix up a 1981 XJ650.
I just bought another 18 HP v-twin on Friday for $250 just got to watch for them.
Shouldn’t be no need for a pulse pump for the fuel…. The tank should gravity feed the carb nicely
Looks fun, but removing the governor is for kids that don't know how to adjust it.
I remember my first time
I will be fully removing it to prevent the governor from exploding from the high rpm and the parts going through the engine.
Another reason your belt is tearing up your pullies are not aligned. You need to align the front pully to be even with the rear pully. You do this by putting shims on the crankshaft behind the front pully until it is even with the rear.
You put your drive belt on backwards
Looks good
Belt is rubbing metal, not a power issue the rear pully sitting too far back, need a spacer.
Wow! 18 hp! It should fly
It does 55mph
@@crazybuilder1412 cool, ill bet its fun!
nice bobber
You need to split the case. The plastic governer will come apart at higher than normal rpms. Remove it right.
Don't worry the rest of it is long gone. It's done properly now.
Why don't you get rid of that dahm belt drive and just run a chain drive. You got plenty of power with a twin cylinder motor.
I assume it’s because the clutch can’t handle it. I’m doing a 992cc generac swap quad and the new clutch just wear out
hey slick! how about removing the obviously bolted on arm that is attached to the centrifugal shaft of the governor?
I have removed the governor completely since that video.
The governor arm was left on so that I could spring load the governor as an attempt to prevent it from blowing up and all the parts going through the motor and destroying the engine. I had always planned to completely remove it. As spring loading it was a temporary solution.
What size bolt goes on the drive shaft
Is the trans from a Shifter Cart. Plausible. I'm looking into that now
No it was just a 30 series tourque converter
PZ 22 carburetor will take the governor away
Damn son!
Whats the top speed though? Seemed like it was only hitting lile 30 max while you were filming
It was doing 55
@@crazybuilder1412 you could be doing alot faster if you change the gearing around that sprocket way to small for that engine I have a 301cc and I have a 72tooth sprocket maybe more it's about the same size tire and had it 66 and still had more power
I could easily gear it to go faster but the bearings and suspension on that thing are not designed to be going that fast in the first place and I want the take off tourque.
@@crazybuilder1412 I would have mine 70 mph no problem basically have the same bike mines newer tho
holy shit
It gets better! In my next video I will be turbo charging it.
The only thing I would do next is swingarm rear suspension setup
I'm thinking about it I can definitely do it. I am a machinist after all. but currently the pipes are connected to the rear arm and I don't want to change them. But I probably will.
@@crazybuilder1412 do you got a video how it is mounted to the frame
Get a Polar torque converter, way better than anything else I've seen.
Just bought a $400 clutch for it install in the next video
Belts on backwards also
Slap a Juggernaut on a 40 series.
How many MPH did it go ??
It does 70mph
It looks like you put the belt on the wrong way.
Hi I was wondering if I could pay you too do mine
You have got to put a spacer on the backside of the
What you're saying most people that do anything with these engines are already know. And either there's something wrong with the alignment of your clutches or your using cheap belts.
I was using an 40 series primary clutch (double taper) with a 30 series secondary (single taper with flat one side) which is the wrong setup but it is fixed now.
@@crazybuilder1412 I see. Those belts for centrifugal clutches are normally very strong so I knew something was wrong somewhere. 👊✌
belttt
18 hp v twin engine price ???
Used I paid $650
Well... you're not supposed to run a 30 series on big block, that engine has too much power... and definitely not a 30s with a 40s... You wear the belt unevenly, and it has too much power
25 to 40 hp v twin are available ???
This I do know but they would be hard to get inside of the frame, I do actually have a Honda 670 cc that I would eventually like to try to get in it.
PCV goes to air cleaner.
Get the jackshaft setup
Screw the belt setup
The belt is a torque converter and gives it both power and speed, far superior to a centrifugal clutch check out the part 4
@@crazybuilder1412 power and speed lol the belt must be stickshift smh wrong belts break and slip more than anything else it does
The mini bike doesn't have a manual transmission (although I wish it did) it has a cvt (constant variable transmission) and the belt is the main part of that setup it can change positions on the two pulleys to create an infinite amount of ratios between it's highest and lowest capabilities. Meaning that it has a low rato (high rpm on the engine and low rpm of the tire) when you take off giving you alot of torque to the wheel and when the bike gets up to speed The cvt automatically changes to a higher ratio (less torque for more speed) to give you the lowest engine rpms for the speed you are going also increasing the top speed at wide open. The new cvt works well after I put a comet belt on it and the belt slip is what makes the clutch work.
Are you selling this bike?
Maybe someday but currently no
Better get a billet flywheel stock is no good for those R's
Can you send me link to get the gas tank
I can't get the link to copy but just search mini bike gas tank on Amazon and I bought the 4L one.
@@crazybuilder1412 Thanks
Problems, problems, applied engineering I suppose.
do this with a chinese v twin diesel
That would be interesting although I would have to come up with a gearbox Because diesels don't rev up all that high.
Your belts are eating up because it’s completely installed wrong and not lined up correctly……I never understood all the work to put these big engines in a mini bike frame. My Coleman runs 55mph and I have about 400 bucks into it. Motor build and torque converter
I know all about the old torque converter issues and it has already been replaced. Plus putting a big engine in my bike was for the sheer amount of torque it can put out. With the right sprocket this bike could easily go 80 to 100mph I just don't want it to. So it's geared for 55mph. And it gets there in less than 2 seconds.
Yeah you definitely don't have those clutches of line properly and that's why your belts ripping has nothing to do with the power