Looks like I’m going to have to get some molded custom tires...1/18 RC racecar, tires have to be 2” not 2.5” that out of scale. I like the stock steel racing wheels, the smallest I can find is 1.55, but even the low profile tires are too big. I may have to find a cheap NASCAR toy to get the correct size rim and duplicate 4 in resin, then cut a tire to fit that rim and make a mold for that tire...I’m planning to make a lot of these tires, for several 1/18 scale “Enduro” style RC race cars.
Hi, where can I get aluminum molds made? I'm needing 1and 3/8 tall tires that will fit in a aluminum rum for a 1/16 scale micro truck you i,m working on.
I don’t understand, why not put the whole tire into the mold material then cut it out to get a keyed mold? For the harder material I get it but for the silicone I would think it would make it way easier and produce more even tires.
The main problem with the first ones is they move to much, You should have just stuck plywood to the base of each side or better still left them in the containers you made them in
Can't understand your pronunciation of the type of rubber material you used.. OO OO Mooo Stuff ???... could you please add that info to this thread? Thanks for sharing...awesome !!
MeinDuff48 "O-O-MOO 30" is the name of the rubber casting material. I don't know why the name is so strange. It doesn't mean anything in English either. The company that supplies it is called "Smooth-On" and they carry a HUGE variety of rubber. They are on line. They got their start supplying spedial effects people in Hollywood, and if you look at their catalog, you can see the kind of things they supply. It's pretty impressive.The "30" after the rubber name relates to how hard it is. I think the scale is from 1-100 in value. A 30 durometer rubber is on the soft side. 100 durometer rubber would be like a bowling ball. The advantage to this 30 Durometer rubber is that you can cast a resin part in it, which will be as stiff as a regular kit molded part, and you can still get it out of the mold, because the mold will stretch a little. If you have a minor undercut on the pattern, it won't matter, because the rubber will allow the undercut to flex over the part and the part will come out. If you use a very high durometer rubber, and you have any kind of undercut at all, you can't get the part out without destroying the mold. They sell small sample kits, so you can try things out and see how they work, and then decide the way you want to go. Smooth-On here in Arizona is very helpful and excellent to deal with. Their service is very fast. I would hope they are as nice in other places. Look them up on line, and see if they have a distributor in Europe....Good luck!
Very nice! Thanks for sharing your "secrets".
can you show other videos this is so valuable to me.
Looks like I’m going to have to get some molded custom tires...1/18 RC racecar, tires have to be 2” not 2.5” that out of scale. I like the stock steel racing wheels, the smallest I can find is 1.55, but even the low profile tires are too big. I may have to find a cheap NASCAR toy to get the correct size rim and duplicate 4 in resin, then cut a tire to fit that rim and make a mold for that tire...I’m planning to make a lot of these tires, for several 1/18 scale “Enduro” style RC race cars.
What part of Florida are you from? Id love to see some rc jets fly. I dont think they fly them here in Daytona
are these moulds made of silicone resin ??
Hi, where can I get aluminum molds made? I'm needing 1and 3/8 tall tires that will fit in a aluminum rum for a 1/16 scale micro truck you i,m working on.
Yes I know how spell. Im needing 1 and 3/8 tall tires that will fit a aluminum rim for 1/16 scale micro truck im working on ...
I don’t understand, why not put the whole tire into the mold material then cut it out to get a keyed mold? For the harder material I get it but for the silicone I would think it would make it way easier and produce more even tires.
The main problem with the first ones is they move to much, You should have just stuck plywood to the base of each side or better still left them in the containers you made them in
Lanjot kawan👍👍
Showing would be better than telling.
Can't understand your pronunciation of the type of rubber material you used..
OO OO Mooo Stuff ???... could you please add that info to this thread?
Thanks for sharing...awesome !!
MeinDuff48 "O-O-MOO 30" is the name of the rubber casting material. I don't know why the name is so strange. It doesn't mean anything in English either. The company that supplies it is called "Smooth-On" and they carry a HUGE variety of rubber. They are on line. They got their start supplying spedial effects people in Hollywood, and if you look at their catalog, you can see the kind of things they supply. It's pretty impressive.The "30" after the rubber name relates to how hard it is. I think the scale is from 1-100 in value. A 30 durometer rubber is on the soft side. 100 durometer rubber would be like a bowling ball. The advantage to this 30 Durometer rubber is that you can cast a resin part in it, which will be as stiff as a regular kit molded part, and you can still get it out of the mold, because the mold will stretch a little. If you have a minor undercut on the pattern, it won't matter, because the rubber will allow the undercut to flex over the part and the part will come out. If you use a very high durometer rubber, and you have any kind of undercut at all, you can't get the part out without destroying the mold. They sell small sample kits, so you can try things out and see how they work, and then decide the way you want to go. Smooth-On here in Arizona is very helpful and excellent to deal with. Their service is very fast. I would hope they are as nice in other places. Look them up on line, and see if they have a distributor in Europe....Good luck!
awesome ..thanks !!
you're wife is gone for shure
Marcel Bakermans your* sure*
he, not a good job with taking only