i just want to say a big thank you to Bill and CJ Pony Parts these install and review videos are just amazing you guys go above and beyond i have never seen a company do such things for there clients, as an Australian and the Mustang coming over here towards the end of this year and us not having a market for these cars at all i have to say i definitely know where i will be shopping for all my mustang parts. Keep the videos up guys, im always watching :D
Biil want to say you do an Awesome job for CJ Pony and for the public. You're very professional and I respect your work. I am a big ford guy also, have a tricked out 02 Fl50 bought new, and my monster 2016 GT /CS 5.0 all customized,and tastefully moded. I enjoy watching your installation of mods, Thankyou much, BTW love your Mustang!!..
NOTICE ! Steeda changed the bushings on these bars. They are NO LONGER EQUIPPED WITH LUBE Fittings. The product pictures are dated; they show bushings with zerk fittings. Current production bars have no provision to add lube short of disassembly of the bushing/bracket assemblies. Installation video was very helpful. I set up the bar on the softest setting to get a feel for it. Has not made the car tail-happy as I feared but does help the Mustang rotate in corners. I may add the front bar later. Brake line attachment provided lacks tab to prevent rotation when end link is tightened. OEM unit has a tab to prevent this. Good product otherwise, hope the bushings don't start squeaking in cold weather.
Why did you take the front endlinks loose at the top? Steeda says to undo the bottom, which also gets them out of the way when fishing the bar through the front. The plastic shield you mentioned for the driver side rear bolt is easy to remove, only held on by two pushpins. I did mine on jackstands, and you really need to get the nose up in the air to have room to maneuver the bar out. Figure at least a foot of air under the tire. Without a lift, the front bar took me about 2 hours overall, and the rear less than an hour. Aftermarket exhaust makes it easy to just drop the rear bar straight out the back and down. Starting the front bolts on the rear bar brackets first makes things easier when reinstalling. Even on a Performance Pack car the bars make a noticeable improvement.
Bill Tumas hey Bill love the videos, literally just finished my bmr polyurethane differential lockout kit. I also have done Steeda rear sub frame brace, vertical links, bmr cradle bushing lockout kit. Im still experiencing whee hop. Help. Whats left or what do i need to do so i can launch harder. PLEASE HELP
Your links come right out, no problem. When I undo the nut on mine, the link gets forced upwards (or the strut downwards) and makes it impossible to get the stud out of the strut. Any ideas on what's causing that? It's almost like the sway bar is preloaded upwards
dumb question. whats the right orientation of the sway bars i took my off and didnt check. is u lay thr sway bar on the floor are the end suppose to kick up?
With that set up (both bars in the middle hole) is the car neutral, oversteer or understeer? I'm ordering soon, and Steeda says softest front and middle rear for PP cars. Curious your thoughts and how your car handles. Thanks!
I installed the Steeda spring and sway bars, now i am getting a loud clunk when hitting sharp bumps when driving slowly any ideas on what to check first?
I love Steeda setup too. However, I'm getting some squeaks coming from the rear sway bar after two weeks of driving. Should I use different type of lubrication?
My car is a performance pack and while they are an upgrade for the stock PP swaybars they are only a minor improvement in the neutral setting but the adjustability makes them a nice upgrade if you track the car.
The different settings are for different applications, mostly track use. Time to change is basically how long it takes you to disconnect the sway bar link.
Ride comfort! if you track your car often and want the best handling go with 1st setting which is the most aggressive. just remember, you'll feel every bump in the road so most people elect to go this route. Improves handling but doesn't make the car uncomfortable...
The rear sway bar, the easy one, where 2 Ford crap ass welded nuts broke the welds on the inside of the subframe. Why are Mustangs pieces of shit except the engines......?
i just want to say a big thank you to Bill and CJ Pony Parts these install and review videos are just amazing you guys go above and beyond i have never seen a company do such things for there clients, as an Australian and the Mustang coming over here towards the end of this year and us not having a market for these cars at all i have to say i definitely know where i will be shopping for all my mustang parts. Keep the videos up guys, im always watching :D
Thanks for watching and thanks for the compliments!
+Mustang767 I used it for both
Biil want to say you do an Awesome job for CJ Pony and for the public. You're very professional and I respect your work. I am a big ford guy also, have a tricked out 02 Fl50 bought new, and my monster 2016 GT /CS 5.0 all customized,and tastefully moded. I enjoy watching your installation of mods, Thankyou much, BTW love your Mustang!!..
NOTICE ! Steeda changed the bushings on these bars. They are NO LONGER EQUIPPED WITH LUBE Fittings. The product pictures are dated; they show bushings with zerk fittings. Current production bars have no provision to add lube short of disassembly of the bushing/bracket assemblies.
Installation video was very helpful. I set up the bar on the softest setting to get a feel for it. Has not made the car tail-happy as I feared but does help the Mustang rotate in corners. I may add the front bar later. Brake line attachment provided lacks tab to prevent rotation when end link is tightened. OEM unit has a tab to prevent this. Good product otherwise, hope the bushings don't start squeaking in cold weather.
CJ Pony Parts you guys always have the best installation videos 💪👍
@5:53 4 extensions
Why did you take the front endlinks loose at the top? Steeda says to undo the bottom, which also gets them out of the way when fishing the bar through the front. The plastic shield you mentioned for the driver side rear bolt is easy to remove, only held on by two pushpins.
I did mine on jackstands, and you really need to get the nose up in the air to have room to maneuver the bar out. Figure at least a foot of air under the tire. Without a lift, the front bar took me about 2 hours overall, and the rear less than an hour. Aftermarket exhaust makes it easy to just drop the rear bar straight out the back and down. Starting the front bolts on the rear bar brackets first makes things easier when reinstalling.
Even on a Performance Pack car the bars make a noticeable improvement.
I took them off at the top so I could easily move the bar to get the bottoms with an impact to save time,
Bill Tumas hey Bill love the videos, literally just finished my bmr polyurethane differential lockout kit. I also have done Steeda rear sub frame brace, vertical links, bmr cradle bushing lockout kit. Im still experiencing whee hop. Help. Whats left or what do i need to do so i can launch harder. PLEASE HELP
I was all set to order these but after watching the front bar install, I'm thinking.. Maybe not.
Honestly, it's not that bad. The front sway bar may give you a headache trying to fit it through but its not super complicated.
How about a 99/04 gt install?
My rear steeda sway bar broke in half today. My car is a daily driver I have no idea how it broke
Guess I should have done this BEFORE the centri blower
Does it matter which top mount you use on the front shock? For the swaybar endlinks.
Your links come right out, no problem. When I undo the nut on mine, the link gets forced upwards (or the strut downwards) and makes it impossible to get the stud out of the strut. Any ideas on what's causing that? It's almost like the sway bar is preloaded upwards
dumb question. whats the right orientation of the sway bars i took my off and didnt check. is u lay thr sway bar on the floor are the end suppose to kick up?
Are you gonna do a review of the stainless works h or x pipe catback?
Do a video for 2015 fiesta St
With that set up (both bars in the middle hole) is the car neutral, oversteer or understeer? I'm ordering soon, and Steeda says softest front and middle rear for PP cars. Curious your thoughts and how your car handles. Thanks!
I installed the Steeda spring and sway bars, now i am getting a loud clunk when hitting sharp bumps when driving slowly any ideas on what to check first?
I would start my making sure the mounts are bolted properly to the frame and then check the endlinks.
Ok I'll check that tonight thanks. I am pretty sure that's all tight.
It's the end link that connects to the swaybar on the drivers side. When i hit a bump the end link threaded stud hits the metal above it.
+Jason Martin Was it an easy fix?
+jdeki yes they sent me a new sway bar, they had accidentally sent me one for a different model.
How do these compare to the away bars from the factory for the performance pack mustangs?
+mike b I have measured the pp sway bars and they are smaller than the steeda
I love Steeda setup too. However, I'm getting some squeaks coming from the rear sway bar after two weeks of driving. Should I use different type of lubrication?
When I see posts like this it makes me not wanna change and leave stock, especially when no one offers any advice to fix the problem.
Do you still have the problem? What did you do to fix it?
+jdeki yes it's gone now after I took it to a road course and canyon drive guess the grease had to lubricant more
@@jdeki still no answer ?
Why ford motor cheap out 200$ to put the same strong in the mustang from factory?
How long did it actually take to fish that sway bar threw the engine compartment?
Only a few minutes to be honest. I had someone on the other side help me so it wasn't too bad but doing it solo would make it harder.
That is a sharp looking 2015 mustang! A lot sharper than my 73 mustang drag car and my 00 convertible. Love your material and keep up the good work.
these are a big pain in the ass,i pulled the strut (added new ones anyway).
Hey Bill with all sincerity, are this swaybars better than the ones that come on the 16 performance pack mustang gt
My car is a performance pack and while they are an upgrade for the stock PP swaybars they are only a minor improvement in the neutral setting but the adjustability makes them a nice upgrade if you track the car.
So Steeda or Eibach? What's the difference?
The color :) All kidding aside they are very similar as far as mounting and diameter go. The Steedas have welded ends which is what swayed me.
What is the reason for adjustability on the sway bars? And is there an approximate time for switching from one setting to another?
The different settings are for different applications, mostly track use. Time to change is basically how long it takes you to disconnect the sway bar link.
Extension
Any reason you wouldn't want it on the stiffer setting?
Ride comfort! if you track your car often and want the best handling go with 1st setting which is the most aggressive. just remember, you'll feel every bump in the road so most people elect to go this route. Improves handling but doesn't make the car uncomfortable...
@tattude1974 which settling which you recommend for daily driving and a little spirited driving?
Oh no you touched your brake rotor with your greasy hands.lol
The rear sway bar, the easy one, where 2 Ford crap ass welded nuts broke the welds on the inside of the subframe. Why are Mustangs pieces of shit except the engines......?