Awesome video, a few notes: - with a spi elrs receiver like shown it is not necessary or encouraged to setup a the RX uart, just leave it as "none" - with elrs in general its highly recommended to have arming on channel 5, as this channel updates way faster than the other aux channels
Just finished my build where I used all the exact same parts, with the exception of the battery connector (using the PH2.0), ran 1.5 packs through it, and I got to say this is a pretty incredible rig/tune. I've primarily flown 5 inch freestyle rigs for the last couple of years, but the feel and performance of this thing is shockingly comparable. I threw power loops around a kitchen chair, and had no issues throwing or catching without any prop wash. Snap rolls, back flips, and front flips all felt dialed - no wonkiness on rotation end. I juicy ejected and was surprised to feel the carry...didn't expect that to be as pronounced as it was. Juicy flicks had a good throw and feel. I'm pretty confident this rig can handle any of the more advanced stuff, except maybe inverted yaws...I'll need a higher ceiling to try. I'm pretty sure I'm going to break it inside my home shortly, and may not have a chance to do that. I did run into some issues: - I couldn't connect to the board on my windows machine. When trying to "Reset to Bootloader" it would find the COM, but would then lose it on reboot. I worked around by using my Mac to configure FC and ESCs. - using the template: the board orientation wasn't correct when I watched the software model. No biggie, but not sure why my orientation would be different. - I had to create a different RC model in my radio, as my AUXes were upside down. Didn't immediately see a way to invert the Off/On for AUX assignments in quicksilver, but I'll take a gander at the documentation. - I also had to play detective on what motors were assigned to which ESCs to get everything spinning the correct way in the ESC config tab. Otherwise, this is probably one of the most complete and easiest to follow full build tutorial I've seen. Thank you for this. So. Much.
Hey man! Glad you enjoy flying it! The issues you're having sounds like a different gyro in your fc. HM changed what gyro they were using in the diamonds. I'll see if there's something we can do about that. But I'm glad you got it figured out! Let'er rip!
Just subscribed a few weeks ago and enjoy watching you rip. You've inspired me to get back into whoop'n...especially on some 0802, 25k KV motors, lol. I've been running Emuflight 0.4.1 on all my rigs except for 2 whoops on BF 3.5.7...since 'crash-flip' isnt available, I run these [2] on Multishot and separate motor PWM speed [400] from the PID speed. I get increased flight times, more torque and responsiveness/less latency. Anyway, I hope to start a Fractal build soon and to catch more of your vids and ripping...keep up the great work. 🤙
You never know where you're going to learn from. Just ordered a No Clean Flux Dispensing Pen for soldering lighting in structures and decoders in HO locomotives. Cool beans.
Thank you for the amazing video! I stopped on a similar setup a few weeks ago. I run the thicker F75 frame half the time, no ducts and 300mAh Tattus most of the time but use the 450s when running with ducts. I have my own filter and PID tune I did by blackboxing with an openlager I elasticed in between the camera and AIO but am kinda curious to try quicksilver again. Currently on BF4.4 and ELRS V3
QUICKSILVER is ELRS V2, had to use my other radio. Haven't figured out how to blackbox or tune yet, just getting used to it. It's different then the last time I used it, I don't think it worked with SPI when I used it last, I have memories soldering a receiver. So far doesn't fly as well as BF4.4 but I am willing to give it a chance.
Awesome build video, super comprehensive! I love that we're at a point where you can do the whole firmware setup in just a couple clicks, no more installing programs making sure it's the right version etc etc And she's looking tight right off the box!
Nice overview and the thing looks like it flys great. I ordered a frame with your link and code. Thanks for that. I have piles of Moblite7 parts kicking around so might as well give this a try. I am looking forward to it.
I followed this guide yesterday, drone flies great! I have a 2 inch 1s and 3 inch 2s toothpick without prop guards. do you think quicksilver would work nicely on those? Both are x12 boards. Thanks!
Hey Jeb! Great to hear you are enjoying the build. Quicksilver has some pretty decent preset pids for larger quads as well. I recently used it on a TuneRC 2s 3" build video. The stock 3" tune on QS flew really well!
Hi mate, am about to do a frame swap for my poor broken moblite 75 and was wondering if you reckon I could chuck it on an Air75 frame without having to solder or cut the frame? Cheers for any help!
Thanks for the video Heads. Great guide! While I cannot hate the ingenious idea of a Fractal frame, it has some issues: 1. Caddx Ant Lite Mounting a camera which has connectors in the rear isn't supported out of the box with the TPU. Had to lengthen the original model with extra teeth to grip around connectors. I'm reluctant to depin the cam, as being able to change the settings every now and then is nice. 2. Camera mounting in general I'm not sure if it's because of my modded mounting solution, but even minor crashes end up tilting camera ever so slightly to either side. I find it really annoying. 3. Trutle mode W/o a canopy which provides distance to the ground, turtle mode is much less reliable. It takes many more tries to flip over - sometimes quad just spins on the ground. I haven't tested this extensively outside in the grass, but I presume it'll be much worse than on the carpet. 4. Battery mounting 300mAh nitro nectars are prone to getting released from the front holder in crashes. I'm trying a mod with thicker holder, we'll see if it improves things. --- Modified 3d model: www.printables.com/model/301933-modified-300mah-cam-holder-for-fractal-6575 I prefer the Mobthicc v2 - w/o any of the issues mentioned above (2,3,4 especially) it lets me fly until the battery says stop. Cracked frame can be fixed with a bit of heat shrink. 😉 Would be curious if you encountered any of the above and if you have any tips. 🤞
Hey thanks for the comment! 1. While beta testing the Fractal75 I tried several cameras, the Ant lite being one of them. In my notes it was the largest camera, weighed the most, and had pretty good image quality. I didn't fly it on the build though, being the heaviest of the ones I had available, I opted for the Foxeer Pico Razer instead. Weight was much less, better shape, the lens didn't stick out so far, and the image quality is solid. The only kicker was the pigtail needs to be changed when you get it. Yves from Fractal may have actually tried the Ant on it. I'll have to ask. 2. I'm going to assume it is from the camera used or the modifications made. I never have a problem with the camera moving. This very well could be because of the shape of the Pico and where the plug sits. I was extremely skeptical with the camera mount when I first tried the f65, I think I even mentioned it in my review video back then. That had the Runcam nano 3 in it and holds very well. Surprised me. 3. I can make mine flip on hardwood or my garage floor pretty easily. First or second try usually. I don't want you to think I'm messing with you, I uploaded one of my most recent flights with the Mobthicc. This is my first pack of the day and I was getting tattooed lol. So there is a fair amount of crashing and flipping on hardwood. th-cam.com/video/1LiiJEtFXNE/w-d-xo.html 4. I use 450mah packs in mine, and 3D print my own holders. Some variables there. My prints could be getting squished a bit more so the space for the battery is slightly tighter. The 450s I use are wrapped and stretch the tpu pretty good. Every now and then I would get a bad crash and the battery would slide out. I put a small ball of BlueTac on the bottom of the carbon. So when you slide the battery in, it kind of squishes the bluetac down and adds some traction for the lipo to grip. Could also do a bead of hot glue, carefully. I hope that new holder works better for you. I say use what works for you. If the older build works, just fly that! The reason I swapped frames between builds was for durability mainly. I can't break these fractal frames very easily. Also keeping the weight down helps make those crashes a little less catastrophic, which is why I avoided the heavier camera with nice picture. I got tired of breaking things haha. If I left anything unanswered, or something else comes up, don't hesitate to let me know!
Appreciate your response! 👍 Of course, flying what works makes perfect sense, but we're here to also try new things! 😉 I hope my lengthy message didn't come out as rant. I think there's a lot of positive things to be said about the fractal: - improved durability you mentioned - not having to replace the entire frame in case one duct cracks - easier maintenance due to how nicely accessible the fc is - camera positioning means you can get that bit closer to obstacles and ground - better prop wash handling at low voltages (placebo or I have tuned v2 poorly) I'm going to give the pico razer a shot. Thanks for the tips wrt battery mounting. If it comes to turtle mode, I agree it works (eventually) on hard surfaces. It's the grassy outdoors which I'm slightly concerned about - TBD. I wonder what your v4 will bring. ✌
Ah yes, grass is a killer. I keep mine fairly short, but even then sometimes it's a walk of shame 😕 No worries on the message, didn't find it rant-like at all!
Great timing! The parts for my F75 build just all arrived. Any comments on bt2.0 vs gnb27? I saw some testing that gnb27 has less voltage sag, but it seems bt2.0 is more popular.
Just picked up one of these frames. Still going back and forth on FC's. Try to find one ELRS uart bases and also has a vtx, Not sure if thats possible yet. Had tons of trouble with my mobula SPI bases elrs when first setting it up. I'm really looking forward to seeing how it handles, if its any different from my mobula frames since they flex so much. I've also been running 20000kv motor and will be upgrading to 25000. Really hoping that gives me the punch I'm looking for. Thanks for the video man.
I wouldn't recommend this FC anymore. The QC seems worse and the boards are fragile enough to begin with. I have a Happymodel 2g4 FC on this build now.
Hey, thanks for the build, I just put together two identical, everyting works as expected other than I cannot get either one to bind. USART1 is selected, not sure what else to try. thank you
@@InfinityLoops Yep, (TX16S-ELRS EdgeTX, no problem binding with my big quads.) Two identical builds, all other features functioning correctly, neither indicates any type of TX/RX interaction. I've tried binding as per your vid as well as using the bind button. Battery connected, UART1 selected, etc. (Thanx for the fast response BTW)
Hi, I wish to clean my brushless motor by removing the dust/sand !! What do you think about cleaning the 0802 brushless motor by using 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol Electronics Cleaner in spray can ? Does the Isopropyl Alcohol will remove the grease of the bearings ?? If yes do you have a better solution ??
Sickkk, i'd been waiting for this one! Do you know if i can fit the 4 point mobula canopy in this build instead of those 3d printed camera mounts? I would be using the X12... Want to transfer the guts of my mobula7 1s elrs to the F75 but i'm too scared to run it with the electronics exposed on top🤣😅
I built mine but keeping it on Betaflight. Quicksilver is such a PITA to set up (connects for me maybe one out of a dozen tries) and when I was able to connect, I couldn't use my channel map TREA. Still flies great on the hglrc 25000kv though! This may be my secret weapon this whoop season!
I had troubles connecting with Brave browser, Chrome seemed to work best. I love the HGLRCs, but this newer version has been spinning posts on me. Out of 10 I ordered, 3 have loose motor posts already 😒
@@InfinityLoops THANK you. Finally got it working after 30+ more attempts. Idk why I had such a hard time flashing but once I got it, it connects every time. Maybe a bug, idk
Hey, thanks for sharing. Just a question: so this frame would be part of your ultimate 75mm whoop build today? Just wondering if the stiffness boost's the performance a lot. I guess it does make sense. After changing the moblite7 camera into a canopy on top, it turtled much better. But this way there are no props in view. Do you know if there is a retailer for the fractal frame in europe? Love the work 💪 keep it up
Yes! I love the Fractal frame! It remains my favorite whoop frame to use. EU retailer: www.drone-fpv-racer.com/en/recherche?controller=search&s=fractal
Hey I was thinking of building this and wondering what your thoughts are on flying this outside on slightly windy days to work on flying the racegow tracks to get practice in when i can not fly indoors with my fractal65? Also what props and motors would closely mimic the mobfractal65 flight with this 75mm frame on a small track like the racegow? Or should I just build a 2.5 inch toothpick and call it a day and practice with that? Thanks for the build and the insight.
Mimicking a 65mm with anything larger in a racing format is difficult. 65s handle close proximity maneuvering like it's nothing. 75s turn more boat-like when compared. In my opinion, I would stick with the 65 to practice, may build bad habits flying a larger prop on such tight tracks. I'm not much of a racer myself, but from what OG has told me, practicing outside with the whoops can be rough. I have fond memories of him complaining about it. For racing practice, personally, I use Velocidrone micros dlc. Builds your muscle memory for the track and helps memorize your lines for the real deal.
This is my next build..also thinking about going ductless. I'm also wondering how much difference there is in flight characteristic. If not much I might just do the ducts also...🤔 haven't seen any yet without ducts.
Quicksilver has been beautiful. It is such a light firmware it was so easy to navigate. Betaflight is overwhelming to some, to me it just seemed like too many features I just don't need on a whoop. QS will be my choice of firmware for whoops for the time being.
Just finished my 75 with 2mm frame(all I could find in stock in US). Went with all the same components you did except the frame and my only difference was the last motor had to be reversed as well. I made the mistake of de-soldering the lead off an old cracked lens/overheating runcam 3 and trying to solder it onto the Pico, what a nightmare. I got it on but it's not pretty. Have to say it feels locked after a fast roll I don't feel like I'm catching a rubber band anymore. Thanks for taking the time! Edit: Forgot to mention, mine came in at 23.9g.
Hi, I built a fractal 75 using the moblite FC board and the stock 1900kv motors. I’d like to try out quicksilver…do you think that the profile you created for this mobthick 3 will work on my build? Also, did you notice any difference using 450mah lipos with the bt2.0 connector?
As long as you are running the fc inverted the template should work. You need to make sure gyro moves as expected and motors operate correctly in the configurator before flying.
Hey I built this quad following these instructions and during the motor test phase my motors werent spinning after flashing bluejay very much, they were stuttering or twitching. I unplugged and replugged the battery and got smoke, one of the esc components burned :( I checked everything over with a multimeter and nothing is shorted. Power wires and motor wires are all cleanly soldered. Any chance you know what went wrong? I want to build this quad but I cant smoke another board.
I have a feeling like I know what happened, yes. If you were using the DiamondF4 fc, those escs have a tendency to self destruct on their own. I would try reaching out to Happymodel and letting them know you had one burn up, they may grant you a replacement. These FCs used to be so solid, then suddenly not anymore. ESCs burning up on brand new boards.
Wow, not long after building with the new board my new one now has an issue. I noticed it after doing a turtle flip, same thing as before, one motor only twitches sometimes and it struggles to take off at times and I can see one of the FETS looks like it has a bubble, just like my other failed board. This is making me nervous to continue with quicksilver and bluejay but I really enjoy the way this thing flies when everything is working right. Is this really all just down to poor board quality? Should I even attempt another board or is there a better option now? I want the lightweight but these elrs versions dont seem to have the quality behind them. Is there any chance this was from using turtle mode at 100 % in QS? Thank you for replying. @@InfinityLoops
From my experience, both Betaflight and QS would fry ESCs in the Diamond board. The FC is notorious now with popping fets. I have a massive pile of dead Diamonds from extensive testing of this. It's a gamble with that FC. You might want to look into a 12a ESC FC to run on 1s. Give you a bigger ceiling for buffer.
@@InfinityLoops thank you so much for the response. There really aren’t enough micro 1s boards with built in vtx and elrs. Might have to roll the dice again and hope for a good one.
@@InfinityLoops Yah i’m struggling with some weird esc things on the diamonds like stuttering so i’m wiping and starting over today and i’ll pay more attention to 24…
I'm building the mobthicc v3. Have you tried this setup with Happymodel EX0802 19000kV? Not sure if they can perform as good as 25000kV. What flight time are you getting? Thankssss
@@InfinityLoops Great to hear! Does 25000kV give you much more thrust across throttle range or just slightly more punch at top end? I'm thinking of getting 22000kV and hope I get the best of both world. Oh and are you getting 3mins with these 25k?
25000kv I feel like I lose some low end throttle control. 22000kv might be a good spot for you, kind of depends on your style. Yes, 3-3:30 flight times on a 450mah.
I really want to build this drone but don’t know where to get the parts in Spain an not sure what flight controller to get 😢 can anyone please help me or make a list of parts I need. This will be my first build. I’m 13 and want to get into the hobby. I’ve already done sims
Thanks for these. One of the other builds where you transfered a moblite7 onto a frame seemed to have perfect feed is there something diff or each setup just a little diff?
Lot of outside factors can dirty up your signal. That FC in particular I have had very hit or miss results with, as far as the VTX is concerned. Some get break up within 100 feet. Some I can fly 400 feet crystal clear 🤷♂
@@InfinityLoops thanks for the response. Do you usually run vtxs at full or found better results using midpower. Seems everyone runs full power but wonder if your better off not pushing them. I hated whoops for a bit but trying to get back into them for the winter 😀
When I'm in my house I've found mid range power is pretty good. I only bump it up to full power if I'm outside. I've heard some wifi signal can also cause interference, so I'm sure that should be factored in as well
jesus those tpu strips are hella extra, ribbed for his pleasure haha. on a side note does the tpu camera holder really eliminate jello? it seems so insubstantial loose.
I was super skeptical but used the original prints for a month, only reason I had to print new ones is I swapped a few different cameras a bunch of times and ripped one of the "teeth" with my tweezers after poking it a couple dozen times. They work great and are stupid light. They work unexpectedly well to be honest. One of the best whoop mounts I have had the pleasure of using. I generally carve custom patterns in Happymodel canopies to make them interesting and light weight. But these have been great. I haven't had to touch any of the TPU for several months, with general daily abuse.
joining the hype train to say: I never expected to use the tpu camera mount, but I prefer it over canopies now! Great footage and less ducts in the way. I stuff some foam behind the camera to get the angle right. Very reliable
Awesome video, a few notes:
- with a spi elrs receiver like shown it is not necessary or encouraged to setup a the RX uart, just leave it as "none"
- with elrs in general its highly recommended to have arming on channel 5, as this channel updates way faster than the other aux channels
The Fractal Engineering sticker gave me a 15hp boost on the Lexus.
This is a 100% factual statement.
*results may vary
Lmao I got one on my is250 as well
Just finished my build where I used all the exact same parts, with the exception of the battery connector (using the PH2.0), ran 1.5 packs through it, and I got to say this is a pretty incredible rig/tune.
I've primarily flown 5 inch freestyle rigs for the last couple of years, but the feel and performance of this thing is shockingly comparable. I threw power loops around a kitchen chair, and had no issues throwing or catching without any prop wash. Snap rolls, back flips, and front flips all felt dialed - no wonkiness on rotation end. I juicy ejected and was surprised to feel the carry...didn't expect that to be as pronounced as it was. Juicy flicks had a good throw and feel. I'm pretty confident this rig can handle any of the more advanced stuff, except maybe inverted yaws...I'll need a higher ceiling to try. I'm pretty sure I'm going to break it inside my home shortly, and may not have a chance to do that.
I did run into some issues:
- I couldn't connect to the board on my windows machine. When trying to "Reset to Bootloader" it would find the COM, but would then lose it on reboot. I worked around by using my Mac to configure FC and ESCs.
- using the template: the board orientation wasn't correct when I watched the software model. No biggie, but not sure why my orientation would be different.
- I had to create a different RC model in my radio, as my AUXes were upside down. Didn't immediately see a way to invert the Off/On for AUX assignments in quicksilver, but I'll take a gander at the documentation.
- I also had to play detective on what motors were assigned to which ESCs to get everything spinning the correct way in the ESC config tab.
Otherwise, this is probably one of the most complete and easiest to follow full build tutorial I've seen.
Thank you for this. So. Much.
Hey man! Glad you enjoy flying it!
The issues you're having sounds like a different gyro in your fc. HM changed what gyro they were using in the diamonds. I'll see if there's something we can do about that. But I'm glad you got it figured out! Let'er rip!
Just subscribed a few weeks ago and enjoy watching you rip. You've inspired me to get back into whoop'n...especially on some 0802, 25k KV motors, lol. I've been running Emuflight 0.4.1 on all my rigs except for 2 whoops on BF 3.5.7...since 'crash-flip' isnt available, I run these [2] on Multishot and separate motor PWM speed [400] from the PID speed. I get increased flight times, more torque and responsiveness/less latency.
Anyway, I hope to start a Fractal build soon and to catch more of your vids and ripping...keep up the great work. 🤙
You never know where you're going to learn from. Just ordered a No Clean Flux Dispensing Pen for soldering lighting in structures and decoders in HO locomotives. Cool beans.
This is the best tutorial ever!!!! Thanks a lot! You are an asset to the community!
Perfect timing, got a Fractal 75 and pretty much the same components on the way - can't wait! Thanks for the build guide 👌
Damn son...I'm going in deep. Just ordered parts for a second mobthicc v3.
Sweet video, haven't flown whoops in so long, think it's getting that time to build one. Thanks for the detailed build video.
Thank you for the amazing video! I stopped on a similar setup a few weeks ago.
I run the thicker F75 frame half the time, no ducts and 300mAh Tattus most of the time but use the 450s when running with ducts.
I have my own filter and PID tune I did by blackboxing with an openlager I elasticed in between the camera and AIO but am kinda curious to try quicksilver again. Currently on BF4.4 and ELRS V3
QUICKSILVER is ELRS V2, had to use my other radio.
Haven't figured out how to blackbox or tune yet, just getting used to it. It's different then the last time I used it, I don't think it worked with SPI when I used it last, I have memories soldering a receiver.
So far doesn't fly as well as BF4.4 but I am willing to give it a chance.
Awesome build video, super comprehensive! I love that we're at a point where you can do the whole firmware setup in just a couple clicks, no more installing programs making sure it's the right version etc etc
And she's looking tight right off the box!
Great video Heads
Nice overview and the thing looks like it flys great. I ordered a frame with your link and code. Thanks for that. I have piles of Moblite7 parts kicking around so might as well give this a try. I am looking forward to it.
Thanks been waiting for this.
Sickest Whoop EVER!
I followed this guide yesterday, drone flies great! I have a 2 inch 1s and 3 inch 2s toothpick without prop guards. do you think quicksilver would work nicely on those? Both are x12 boards. Thanks!
Hey Jeb! Great to hear you are enjoying the build. Quicksilver has some pretty decent preset pids for larger quads as well. I recently used it on a TuneRC 2s 3" build video. The stock 3" tune on QS flew really well!
@@InfinityLoops ok fantastic! I missed that video, I'll check it out!
Solid I’m probably going to switch to quicksilver for one and atleast try it. I like simple
Hi mate, am about to do a frame swap for my poor broken moblite 75 and was wondering if you reckon I could chuck it on an Air75 frame without having to solder or cut the frame? Cheers for any help!
I'm pretty sure that should swap over just fine. Little to no issue. That's the Diamond FC right?
That's the one mate, will give it a shot and let you know! Cheers for your help.
Appreciate this, made my build & tune sooo easy.
Thanks for the video Heads. Great guide! While I cannot hate the ingenious idea of a Fractal frame, it has some issues:
1. Caddx Ant Lite
Mounting a camera which has connectors in the rear isn't supported out of the box with the TPU. Had to lengthen the original model with extra teeth to grip around connectors. I'm reluctant to depin the cam, as being able to change the settings every now and then is nice.
2. Camera mounting in general
I'm not sure if it's because of my modded mounting solution, but even minor crashes end up tilting camera ever so slightly to either side. I find it really annoying.
3. Trutle mode
W/o a canopy which provides distance to the ground, turtle mode is much less reliable. It takes many more tries to flip over - sometimes quad just spins on the ground. I haven't tested this extensively outside in the grass, but I presume it'll be much worse than on the carpet.
4. Battery mounting
300mAh nitro nectars are prone to getting released from the front holder in crashes. I'm trying a mod with thicker holder, we'll see if it improves things.
---
Modified 3d model: www.printables.com/model/301933-modified-300mah-cam-holder-for-fractal-6575
I prefer the Mobthicc v2 - w/o any of the issues mentioned above (2,3,4 especially) it lets me fly until the battery says stop. Cracked frame can be fixed with a bit of heat shrink. 😉
Would be curious if you encountered any of the above and if you have any tips. 🤞
Hey thanks for the comment!
1. While beta testing the Fractal75 I tried several cameras, the Ant lite being one of them. In my notes it was the largest camera, weighed the most, and had pretty good image quality. I didn't fly it on the build though, being the heaviest of the ones I had available, I opted for the Foxeer Pico Razer instead. Weight was much less, better shape, the lens didn't stick out so far, and the image quality is solid. The only kicker was the pigtail needs to be changed when you get it. Yves from Fractal may have actually tried the Ant on it. I'll have to ask.
2. I'm going to assume it is from the camera used or the modifications made. I never have a problem with the camera moving. This very well could be because of the shape of the Pico and where the plug sits. I was extremely skeptical with the camera mount when I first tried the f65, I think I even mentioned it in my review video back then. That had the Runcam nano 3 in it and holds very well. Surprised me.
3. I can make mine flip on hardwood or my garage floor pretty easily. First or second try usually. I don't want you to think I'm messing with you, I uploaded one of my most recent flights with the Mobthicc. This is my first pack of the day and I was getting tattooed lol. So there is a fair amount of crashing and flipping on hardwood. th-cam.com/video/1LiiJEtFXNE/w-d-xo.html
4. I use 450mah packs in mine, and 3D print my own holders. Some variables there. My prints could be getting squished a bit more so the space for the battery is slightly tighter. The 450s I use are wrapped and stretch the tpu pretty good. Every now and then I would get a bad crash and the battery would slide out. I put a small ball of BlueTac on the bottom of the carbon. So when you slide the battery in, it kind of squishes the bluetac down and adds some traction for the lipo to grip. Could also do a bead of hot glue, carefully. I hope that new holder works better for you.
I say use what works for you. If the older build works, just fly that! The reason I swapped frames between builds was for durability mainly. I can't break these fractal frames very easily. Also keeping the weight down helps make those crashes a little less catastrophic, which is why I avoided the heavier camera with nice picture. I got tired of breaking things haha.
If I left anything unanswered, or something else comes up, don't hesitate to let me know!
Appreciate your response! 👍 Of course, flying what works makes perfect sense, but we're here to also try new things! 😉
I hope my lengthy message didn't come out as rant. I think there's a lot of positive things to be said about the fractal:
- improved durability you mentioned
- not having to replace the entire frame in case one duct cracks
- easier maintenance due to how nicely accessible the fc is
- camera positioning means you can get that bit closer to obstacles and ground
- better prop wash handling at low voltages (placebo or I have tuned v2 poorly)
I'm going to give the pico razer a shot. Thanks for the tips wrt battery mounting. If it comes to turtle mode, I agree it works (eventually) on hard surfaces. It's the grassy outdoors which I'm slightly concerned about - TBD.
I wonder what your v4 will bring. ✌
Ah yes, grass is a killer. I keep mine fairly short, but even then sometimes it's a walk of shame 😕
No worries on the message, didn't find it rant-like at all!
Great timing! The parts for my F75 build just all arrived. Any comments on bt2.0 vs gnb27? I saw some testing that gnb27 has less voltage sag, but it seems bt2.0 is more popular.
I haven't tried gnb27s in a while but I heard they are better now. They used to get loose and lose connection all the time. Drove me nuts.
Just picked up one of these frames. Still going back and forth on FC's. Try to find one ELRS uart bases and also has a vtx, Not sure if thats possible yet. Had tons of trouble with my mobula SPI bases elrs when first setting it up. I'm really looking forward to seeing how it handles, if its any different from my mobula frames since they flex so much. I've also been running 20000kv motor and will be upgrading to 25000. Really hoping that gives me the punch I'm looking for. Thanks for the video man.
I'm having trouble finding the FC that he used in this video. Would you be willing to help me find a link to one or one thats close to equal?
@@mattmoyer1912 I’ve found them but they have terrible reviews. Everyone I’ve talked to say say far away from them.
I wouldn't recommend this FC anymore. The QC seems worse and the boards are fragile enough to begin with. I have a Happymodel 2g4 FC on this build now.
Hey, thanks for the build, I just put together two identical, everyting works as expected other than I cannot get either one to bind. USART1 is selected, not sure what else to try. thank you
Hey there! You're using ELRS?
@@InfinityLoops Yep, (TX16S-ELRS EdgeTX, no problem binding with my big quads.) Two identical builds, all other features functioning correctly, neither indicates any type of TX/RX interaction. I've tried binding as per your vid as well as using the bind button. Battery connected, UART1 selected, etc. (Thanx for the fast response BTW)
Ok. Let's start with elrs version. Which is on your TX? Elrs 2.x or 3.x? Also, which version of QS are you flashing?
@@InfinityLoops QS version is 9.5, looks like ELRS version is 2.4.0 on TX
Bingo! QS 9.x supports ELRS 3.x. easy fix, just need to update TX firmware.
Hi,
I wish to clean my brushless motor by removing the dust/sand !!
What do you think about cleaning the 0802 brushless motor by using
99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol Electronics Cleaner in spray can ?
Does the Isopropyl Alcohol will remove the grease of the bearings ??
If yes do you have a better solution ??
Sickkk, i'd been waiting for this one!
Do you know if i can fit the 4 point mobula canopy in this build instead of those 3d printed camera mounts?
I would be using the X12...
Want to transfer the guts of my mobula7 1s elrs to the F75 but i'm too scared to run it with the electronics exposed on top🤣😅
I built mine but keeping it on Betaflight. Quicksilver is such a PITA to set up (connects for me maybe one out of a dozen tries) and when I was able to connect, I couldn't use my channel map TREA. Still flies great on the hglrc 25000kv though! This may be my secret weapon this whoop season!
I had troubles connecting with Brave browser, Chrome seemed to work best.
I love the HGLRCs, but this newer version has been spinning posts on me. Out of 10 I ordered, 3 have loose motor posts already 😒
@@InfinityLoops THANK you. Finally got it working after 30+ more attempts. Idk why I had such a hard time flashing but once I got it, it connects every time. Maybe a bug, idk
No worries, glad you got it working. I can ask the developers about it. What browser were you having trouble with?
@@InfinityLoops Chrome - I posted about it in the Discord.
Perfect!
Hey, thanks for sharing. Just a question: so this frame would be part of your ultimate 75mm whoop build today? Just wondering if the stiffness boost's the performance a lot. I guess it does make sense.
After changing the moblite7 camera into a canopy on top, it turtled much better. But this way there are no props in view. Do you know if there is a retailer for the fractal frame in europe?
Love the work 💪 keep it up
Yes! I love the Fractal frame! It remains my favorite whoop frame to use.
EU retailer:
www.drone-fpv-racer.com/en/recherche?controller=search&s=fractal
Hey I was thinking of building this and wondering what your thoughts are on flying this outside on slightly windy days to work on flying the racegow tracks to get practice in when i can not fly indoors with my fractal65? Also what props and motors would closely mimic the mobfractal65 flight with this 75mm frame on a small track like the racegow? Or should I just build a 2.5 inch toothpick and call it a day and practice with that?
Thanks for the build and the insight.
Mimicking a 65mm with anything larger in a racing format is difficult. 65s handle close proximity maneuvering like it's nothing. 75s turn more boat-like when compared. In my opinion, I would stick with the 65 to practice, may build bad habits flying a larger prop on such tight tracks.
I'm not much of a racer myself, but from what OG has told me, practicing outside with the whoops can be rough. I have fond memories of him complaining about it. For racing practice, personally, I use Velocidrone micros dlc. Builds your muscle memory for the track and helps memorize your lines for the real deal.
@@InfinityLoops Awesome sir thank you so much I have velocidrone and the micro class on it.
woot woot! Whoop it up!
Awesome build guide. Wondering if you have tried it without the ducks but everything else same. How does it fly then?
I have tried ductless and it flies great! Some people even prefer it this way.
This is my next build..also thinking about going ductless. I'm also wondering how much difference there is in flight characteristic. If not much I might just do the ducts also...🤔 haven't seen any yet without ducts.
What are your thoughts on Quicksilver over Betaflight for flying tinyWhoops in Acro? Thank you for sharing!
Quicksilver has been beautiful. It is such a light firmware it was so easy to navigate. Betaflight is overwhelming to some, to me it just seemed like too many features I just don't need on a whoop. QS will be my choice of firmware for whoops for the time being.
@@InfinityLoops Thank you! I'll have to check it out. Any thoughts on EmuFlight for the same purpose?
Tried it a while ago. Didn't like it much, but that was a while ago I'm sure things have changed a bit.
@@peicou I love Emuflight on my 4” Apex, but I don’t think it has BMI270 gyro support yet (and the newer X12 boards use it)
@@tmdhvn That seals it! Thanks Feej
Just finished my 75 with 2mm frame(all I could find in stock in US). Went with all the same components you did except the frame and my only difference was the last motor had to be reversed as well. I made the mistake of de-soldering the lead off an old cracked lens/overheating runcam 3 and trying to solder it onto the Pico, what a nightmare. I got it on but it's not pretty. Have to say it feels locked after a fast roll I don't feel like I'm catching a rubber band anymore. Thanks for taking the time! Edit: Forgot to mention, mine came in at 23.9g.
Just finished my Fractal 75, with 802 27000kv motors. What do stickboost 1 and 2 do.
I have no idea! Lol sorry, I never change them. I leave all that stuff alone.
Hey Colin, Tks for this video. Can I use another fullsize whoop board like HM x12 aio? Or Will It be too tight?
X12 will work! It will be a bit heavier, but not too much.
Thanks for the build video. Is there a reason to use silverware VS. betaflight or other firmware?
sorry..Quicksilver firmware...
Not really. Personal preference, I find QS easier to navigate and work with.
@@InfinityLoops Thanks for that. Just starting with whoops and wondered if QS was better suited for micros.
Thanks so much for this now perhaps I will try quicksilver 👌🏼🚀😍all this things is not easy for a noob😅
And for info you are wright with 35mm props on fractal 65 but with 12/12mm camera like the foxeer razer pico👌🏼thanks too Heads
Grrreat video, thanks for sharing!
I'd like to put this on HDzero. 🤔 Not sure if it can be done nicely tho...
Hi was wondering if quicksilver will work on stock mobula7 1s ..
Should be OK. They have targets for it.
Yes it'll work very well config.bosshobby.com/
@@InfinityLoops cheers mate.. been reflashing all sorts of settings trying to get it to fly as smooth as yours.. hoping its not just a “pilot” issue 😂
I also run the default rates, which helps with keeping things smooth.
I’m running QS on my stock Mob7 1S and it’s great. I had to bump up the digital idle a little but otherwise 👌🏽
Hi, I built a fractal 75 using the moblite FC board and the stock 1900kv motors. I’d like to try out quicksilver…do you think that the profile you created for this mobthick 3 will work on my build? Also, did you notice any difference using 450mah lipos with the bt2.0 connector?
As long as you are running the fc inverted the template should work. You need to make sure gyro moves as expected and motors operate correctly in the configurator before flying.
Does quicksilver work with elrs 3.X? I know there were issues with BF working with it.
Yes, most recent version does have elrs 3.0 support
Hey I built this quad following these instructions and during the motor test phase my motors werent spinning after flashing bluejay very much, they were stuttering or twitching. I unplugged and replugged the battery and got smoke, one of the esc components burned :(
I checked everything over with a multimeter and nothing is shorted. Power wires and motor wires are all cleanly soldered. Any chance you know what went wrong? I want to build this quad but I cant smoke another board.
I have a feeling like I know what happened, yes. If you were using the DiamondF4 fc, those escs have a tendency to self destruct on their own. I would try reaching out to Happymodel and letting them know you had one burn up, they may grant you a replacement.
These FCs used to be so solid, then suddenly not anymore. ESCs burning up on brand new boards.
Thank you so much, this is what happened, failed esc out of the box. Got a replacement and I am loving this build, Thank you!@@InfinityLoops
Wow, not long after building with the new board my new one now has an issue.
I noticed it after doing a turtle flip, same thing as before, one motor only twitches sometimes and it struggles to take off at times and I can see one of the FETS looks like it has a bubble, just like my other failed board.
This is making me nervous to continue with quicksilver and bluejay but I really enjoy the way this thing flies when everything is working right.
Is this really all just down to poor board quality? Should I even attempt another board or is there a better option now? I want the lightweight but these elrs versions dont seem to have the quality behind them. Is there any chance this was from using turtle mode at 100 % in QS?
Thank you for replying.
@@InfinityLoops
From my experience, both Betaflight and QS would fry ESCs in the Diamond board. The FC is notorious now with popping fets. I have a massive pile of dead Diamonds from extensive testing of this. It's a gamble with that FC. You might want to look into a 12a ESC FC to run on 1s. Give you a bigger ceiling for buffer.
@@InfinityLoops thank you so much for the response. There really aren’t enough micro 1s boards with built in vtx and elrs. Might have to roll the dice again and hope for a good one.
24hz bluejay? You like 24 over 48? I don't think i've noticed a difference... Also "low" demag? Any thoughts behind?
Had fluttering on 48hz. Not sure if it was me or what. But didn't have it on 24 🧐. No clue. I just go where the wind blows.
@@InfinityLoops Yah i’m struggling with some weird esc things on the diamonds like stuttering so i’m wiping and starting over today and i’ll pay more attention to 24…
Any1 tried the carbon plate you can buy for the mob7 v4 (i think!) Frame?
Are you referring to the Fractal75 frame? I'm unfamiliar with any other carbon plate for the mob7 v4.
I'm building the mobthicc v3. Have you tried this setup with Happymodel EX0802 19000kV? Not sure if they can perform as good as 25000kV.
What flight time are you getting?
Thankssss
I have! They perform just fine. Likely a bit longer flight times too. I flew 19000kv on this build originally. Then the 25000kv was suggested to me.
@@InfinityLoops Great to hear! Does 25000kV give you much more thrust across throttle range or just slightly more punch at top end? I'm thinking of getting 22000kV and hope I get the best of both world.
Oh and are you getting 3mins with these 25k?
25000kv I feel like I lose some low end throttle control. 22000kv might be a good spot for you, kind of depends on your style.
Yes, 3-3:30 flight times on a 450mah.
@@InfinityLoops
This is how I fly:
th-cam.com/video/igtaaq7T0yU/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the info man, Mobthicc is going to be my next go to whoop!
I really want to build this drone but don’t know where to get the parts in Spain an not sure what flight controller to get 😢 can anyone please help me or make a list of parts I need. This will be my first build. I’m 13 and want to get into the hobby. I’ve already done sims
Thanks for these. One of the other builds where you transfered a moblite7 onto a frame seemed to have perfect feed is there something diff or each setup just a little diff?
Lot of outside factors can dirty up your signal. That FC in particular I have had very hit or miss results with, as far as the VTX is concerned. Some get break up within 100 feet. Some I can fly 400 feet crystal clear 🤷♂
@@InfinityLoops thanks for the response. Do you usually run vtxs at full or found better results using midpower. Seems everyone runs full power but wonder if your better off not pushing them. I hated whoops for a bit but trying to get back into them for the winter 😀
When I'm in my house I've found mid range power is pretty good. I only bump it up to full power if I'm outside. I've heard some wifi signal can also cause interference, so I'm sure that should be factored in as well
jesus those tpu strips are hella extra, ribbed for his pleasure haha. on a side note does the tpu camera holder really eliminate jello? it seems so insubstantial loose.
😆
I was super skeptical but used the original prints for a month, only reason I had to print new ones is I swapped a few different cameras a bunch of times and ripped one of the "teeth" with my tweezers after poking it a couple dozen times. They work great and are stupid light. They work unexpectedly well to be honest.
One of the best whoop mounts I have had the pleasure of using. I generally carve custom patterns in Happymodel canopies to make them interesting and light weight. But these have been great.
I haven't had to touch any of the TPU for several months, with general daily abuse.
It is such a simple design, it really works perfectly well. I've never had issues with them!
joining the hype train to say: I never expected to use the tpu camera mount, but I prefer it over canopies now! Great footage and less ducts in the way. I stuff some foam behind the camera to get the angle right. Very reliable
Nice bro
What are your rates?
Stock Betaflight Rates. 667 on all axis
Your video is upside-down 😂
You're upside-down