Alot of people and even me love the 300zx, it's just the way Nissan made it super hard to do any engine work. Having to drop the engine every single time you want or have to do something. Mad respect for 300 owners out there keeping it alive.
Got an '86 anniversary edition turbo and I've gotta completely refresh the engine and I'm in no way looking forward to it but it's on a back log of other project cars, lmao.
@Silas I've had both the VG30DE (300ZX NA) and the VG30DETT (300zX TT) and with the VG030DE the only issues I had were the injectors and the starter at some point. Pretty reliable engine.
Renesis rx8 owner here it's not really that bad if you maintain it. It's bad if you don't change oil, overheat it, turn it off before it's warm, never check your plugs, leads or coils etc. Power is pretty low I will say but driving for a bit of fun is really good.
i have 231hp rx8 and although it seems like a low power for todays standards rx8 is very light and very fun to drive, especially in the corners the 50/50 mass with low gravity point is great asf. And it's true that you have to take care of it. Not a good idea for a daily car imo. I upgraded intake and exhaust and on a straight I get 6s from 0 to 100kph - imo not that bad too.
My buddy had one in highschool. I had a 71 Plymouth valiant 4door 318 that was also rated at 230hp. And I could SPANK that Mazda. ANd got better mpg. That’s embarrassing. Oh and mine was like almost 40yo before his was new
A note on the QR25DE. Much of the problems it has was resolved by it's second generation around 2008-9, where it became a stable but average workhorse engine. Unfortunately the CVTs that are attached to these engines became the next big problem.
The qr25de engine in the nissan frontier is absolutely bulletproof. I maintain a fleet of them. We have a few over 300k miles and our current highest milage qr25de is at 340k (and counting).
Most of the issues with the qr25 sucking in pre cat material was only on manual transmissions during engine braking. If you delete the precat before it kills the engine, its pretty reliable
I have an auto '08 altima, I think I'm at around 217,000 miles, I think I got the car with around 180,000 miles. I actually love this engine, it surprised the shit out of me when I changed my oil and 4.5 of the 5 quarts i put in drained out, my lady has an '11 CR-V and out of the 5 quarts I put in, about 2 or 3 quarts will drain out, that's one thirsty ass engine.
One of the bigger problems i have ran into on these engines is spinning the rod bearing on cylinder 3 for the Sentra versions. I have had 5 engines do this. My summation is how the exhaust pipe runs right below cylinder 3 and causes the bearing to heat up. Now I should also say these are when really pushing the engine non-boosted but still driven hard. I run headers so the cat issues have never been a problem and the recall fix was done on the butterfly valve in the intake at some point. latest engine is a JDM with ~45k on it not sure what it came out of but i think it was an X-Trail. luckily the engines are cheap and they were in almost every Altima ever so plenty of stock out there.
3000gt 6g72 owner here, the early engines (pre 93) had a 2 bolt main bearing which was increased to 4 bolt mains due to early engines spinning bearings, alot of these engines get destroyed by people who don't know how to do the timing belt properly and dont set the eclipse pully in the correct smiley position (if you know, you know), ive built a few of these over 10 years and the 4bolt engines will hold over 500ft/lbs with supporting mods and a good tune relatively re4liably before having to tear the block down :)
QR25DE is a great engine! So easy to work on! 2005+ are super reliable, they fixed the cat issues, and butterfly screw issues. As long as you keep up with oil changes, you don't have to worry about the timing chain (owner of a 2006 Nissan Xtrail QR25DE)
The old 12A rotary in my rx7 is rock solid and dead reliable. Its honestly impressive, I dont go easy on it but it just keeps on going. Its all about the maintenance with these things. Sometimes though, the older stuff is just better
Friend from Sweden owns FB. Late August he passed 500k Km (300k miles). Carburated, turbocharged - record was 304 BHP but he toned it back to 180 after he become a parent. Never had a broken seal or any problem just taking care of it, driving long distances and every once in a while he takes the engine out, puts it on dinning table saturday morning, new seals, decarbon and woala back into car in sunday lunch so he can check it later and drive to work on monday. Now I am a proud owner on FC thanks to him.
@@KenanRaptor most people, who say it is terrible, usually owned RX8 and used it as a city/family car. Renesis is a ruined engine cuz its stock lubrication sucks + drive it short distances like going shopping 5-10 minutes away from house twice a day. Double NoNo for seals and rotor housings.
@@KenanRaptor and aerospace engineer never flew a rocket. Doesnt matter if people have owned one, engineers can tell instantly what the problem was. (Owners and emissions)
My Rx8 one is absolutely perfect even with 150 000km on it What people fail to understand is, they are sport cars, you need to maintain them as such. And not like your grandma's old Ford that can probably run with gravel instead of engine oil.
There's tuning company in NJ that specializes in LS swaps in late model Nissan products called Lion of Judah(LOJ) . On "Smoking Tire" they featured a costumer's Z32 300ZX twin turbo 2+2 that ditched the stock VG30DETT for a Heads and Cam LQ9 which not only simplified the complexity of the 300ZX but also produced more HP and TQ than the VG30DETT. The kicker was that the iron block LQ9 was in fact lighter than the stock VG30DETT which gave the Z32 300ZX better weight distribution and handling.
Man..drive a z32 300zx once and you will understand why it’s the best JDM of the 90s and the most fun to own and drive. It’s worth learning a little about its engine and how to simplify it. The Z has always been a fun sports car throughout its looong history
The 3VZ-FE was only used in front wheel drive Toyotas...by that I mean the Camry. It *never* had the head gasket issues that the 3VZ-E had. The 3VZ-FE shouldn't be on this list at all.🤦♂️
The thing you have to remember about the 7M-GTE is, yes it was a bad design and yes most people who bought a 15+ year old one had issues, BUT it was an engine released in the mid eighties and was the seventh generation of a design from the sixties, of course it looks bad from a modern point of view but you have to take these things into account when discussing a 36 year old turbocharged engine. On a side note, the fact that Toyota went from the 7M-GTE prototype to the 1JZ-GTE prototype in under three years is genuinely impressive (yes, credit to Yamaha).
As for the QR25DE these are the solutions to your commentary: 1. Replace the factory manifold with a header and use a spark plug non-fouler to prevent triggering the 0420 CAT code. 2. Remove the top half of the intake manifold and loctite the butterfly screws one at a time and reassemble the manifold. 3. The QR uses oil pressure to tension the timing chain. If you run too low on oil, the chain can go slack and turn your engine into a boat anchor. I had an 02 SE-R that I bought new and did 1. and 2. at around 20K, and it lasted `50K until i got rear ended and it was totaled. If you buy a used one, do an oil consumption test immediately and loctite the butterfly screws. Then get a header.
I've been working at Nissan for the past 10 Years the QR25DE engine has the least amount of problems...it's been used since T30 till now the T32 model even on the L33.
You've confused the difference between the 3vz-e and the 3vz-fe again. The 3vz-e is the one in the truck with head gasket issues. The -fe is in the camry. Different engines.
The EJ25 is only reliable if the maintenance is performed down to a T. If done they do last very high mileage. I'd argue most bad engines would last long with strong maintenance services. Also did BMW get a pass or will they get their own list because they have that many bad ones?
You sir are correct. They are very delicate engines that do need a lot of maintenance. Oil changes every 2500-3000k miles with very good oil. You also need a few upgrades to further make the engine more reliable like a killer b oil pick up pan/tube, as well as a catch can or aos & most importantly a Cobb Acessport. The common misconception about ejs is that people trying to push 400+ hp & blow it up driving like a speed racer every day & wonder why it blew up 200 miles after. They are great & fun cars but you need to be prepared on future maintenance/upgrades to prolonging the life of the engine before buying one.
They don’t even need to be maintained that well, they just can’t be modded incorrectly. Had an 02 that went 230k miles and I used to get the oil changed at jiffy lube if I got lazy. And when I did it myself Walmart oil in it. Only thing done to it was a reflash. I had an 04 that I bought new and ran to 100k. I did turbo swap on it, but always made sure the last step of a mod install after I tightened the last bolt, was to go grab my laptop or accessport and reflash the proper map for it. There are a lot of people throw mods on before having the tune ready. They know they need it, but for some reason throw the parts on and think they can “wait” and do it in a few months or weeks. No, needs it immediately before you even drive it.
Most people don’t make their ej’s like they should and don’t care enough to take care of it, but when u do u can push 800+ unopened like on the ra ej’s and fa20’s I’ve seen hold 650 unopened and the fa24 could possibly hold as much if not more then 800
I own 2 RX8's, both 80k miles+ and they're running solid. Granted, my R3 is now struggling cold, but it's been smashed by the previous owner. If done correctly, the rotary works amazingly. But I drive in a way that works with a rotary powered car. Some one looking for that low end poke and an easy to use engine will not enjoy it
Nissan ZD30 turbo diesel. Not known in the US since it wasn't imported to the US along with a whole host of JDM turbodiesels. Powered various Nissan SUVs and pickups in including the Navara and Patrol as an option. It was nicknamed the 'Grenade' and that gives you an idea about the eventual fate of these engines.
In the honorable mention, the 3vz fe in the third gen Camry was shown. The 3vz fe was only inside the third gen Camry from 92-93. After that the 1mz fe engine was put inside. That engine is the real workhorse that made Camrys known to last a long time.
This engine seems pretty reliable but average. Somehow the video implies just because it isn't a fun engine, it's also unreliable and junk, as if fun equates with reliability.
the 3vzfe didnt have head gasket issues like it was said. It was a great engine. The problem engine is the 3vz-e in the trucks, very different motor, non forged crank, not revvy etc
I had a VG33 in my Nissan Hardbody. Sold it as 418k km and issues were minimal even though it was a workhorse. A frequent oil change goes a long way. Even if it is only 3.8L by the owners manual (which is small for that engine size)
Fun fact about the 6G7X- they're neigh impossible to kill. Cracked blocks, holes in piston heads, etc, they'll run absolutely forever. Probably the best 90's v6 ever engineered, tbh.
I have owned a total of 11 TT Stealths and still own 2 one with over 250 thousand miles. Neglect and kids owning them was the main problem. Getrag trans was the real problem in my book.
I think you meant the 3VZE not the FE. The FE was a camry engine and I am pretty sure they are seen as reliable as was the 5VZFE that replaced the 3VZE in trucks.
Buddy owned one for a few years right after high-school. Thing was fun as hell. Blew it up 3 times before he sold it and the next guy wrapped it around a tree😅😂
I owned a 2003 Sentra Spec V with the qr25de, went through 2 motors because of that exact problem before i sold it. Bright side was i think the altima/maxima at the time ran the same engine so an engine replacement was always readily available and cheap at that.
10:20 , as owner of a dyno tuned sentra SE-R spec-V, 2008 with a QR25, it really depends which QR25 version you get and how you mod it. Mine came stock with forged internals, and is currently n/a dyno tuned to over 230 whp.
Massive failure in the journalism behind the VG30DETT. For starters, the vaccum diagram you posted was for a single cam VG30DET, which is the previous generation of the engine you are referring to. Yes, that engine has an overly complicated vaccum system... one that was simplified in the next generation. Secondly, it may not be an OBD2 capable, but there is plenty of diagnostic software options that can help with running ECU codes... and as a matter of fact, you can run the trouble codes without needing any diagnostic software, as it can be done through the ECUs built-in troubleshooting mode. On a last note, yes - the engine is a bit complex and not easy to work on, but it also has a lot of tech innovations that engines didn't have before, such as variable valve timing. A lot of these systems are deleted or simplified to reduce the complexity of working on these engines.
"How did the fa-20 from the 86/brz not make this list? They spin rod bearings like they were designed for it" Im a year late to this, but: Thats pretty much only a "concern" if youre regularly letting your oil run low (These engines, like most, will burn oil as they get up on life- and its not uncommon for people to not give 2 thoughts to their oil between changes, allowing them to run low), or 2, if youre tracking the car quite a bit, and over heating the oil regularly. For day to day, or light track use- Most people dont really have too much issue. And if youre going to track your car hard/often, you should have an oil cooler anyways, which drastically helps alleviate the bearing concerns.
The reason why it spins rod bearings has nothing to do with the Oil itself but the Oil pickup.. The Gasket maker that subaru used to seal the pan togheter doesent hold up and ends up in the pan which then clogs the pickup@@SidewaysGts
@@insector2093 Dont forget its not just the gasket. Even in newer ones when they track the car, it will most likely spin a bearing, because the oil pan is not designed for taking too many turns, and basically starves the engine of oil.
As a Subaru "builder", I can say yes they have their problems, but I had 350k km on my 06 wrx stock motor/ turbo/ trans. Since then I've rebuilt 3 times due to oil pressure/ pump issues causing rod bearing wear/ noise. Pistons are 08+, head gaskets are pre-05. With the parts involved in the 06/07 wrx they are the best ones for reliability, tuning, design overall.
@@TheRandomname951 maintenence is key, & proper warm up/ cool down (after hard driving). & using proper oil filters also, there's a bypass valve in the filter & some cheaper ones are not high enough pressure before the filter closes, leaving your oil to never get filtered out etc. Wix filters are the same psi as Subaru filters. There's a few discussions about the factory tuning being too emissions friendly causing spark knock/ wear/ problems. & in 08+ they switched the pistons & started getting the ringland problems, which has been attributed to the factory tune etc. My mom had a '13 with 250k km on it before a crash. Early oil changes, oem filters, not modified & always warned up etc.
Having an rx8 engine. The moment it's rebuilt with the necessary upgrades and notes, it becomes more reliable. Had mines rebuilt with the necessary mods along with some added added mods to help with longevity but also power wise it hasn't caused any issues since.
@@jatinsidhu8639 I agree. I've gone 4 years now so far with my rebuilt with only 10k miles. Pretty good. Planning to overhaul it one more time and upgrade it to a Bridgeport along with better oil lines and other better things as well as new ECU now that Cobb is no longer supported and I'm still running a legacy tune from my Cobb Accessport.
The rx8 can be very reliable with some modification... cut out the oil metering pump and add a separate 2 stroke oil reservoir. (will help with emissions too as 2 stroke oil burns cleaner than dirty 4 stroke oil) also despite bieng a non turbo you want a shut off timer to prevent the engine from shutting off until its UP to temperature
@@atlegangletsoge6165 tbf I never said do this over just getting a new car... this is one of those "I love my rx8 and my rotary" things. The rx8 is one of those "it takes a special type of person to love this" cars
@@jabadahut50 oh no, I'm not gonna do that... I wasn't even planning on getting an RX8, it's just that you are giving some great tip to all of us car guys who think the RX8 is Bad while it actually isn't 👑
@@atlegangletsoge6165 bad is somewhat subjective... a car that can flood its own engine on a dime and has to be rebuilt every 50,000 miles is to most people a bad car. I look at it this way though, the rx8 is a sports car. It wasn't meant to be your daily driver super reliable... you want that? Get a Toyota. You want a light weight super high revving fun machine that might break if you treat it wrong? Rx8 is your friend. The rebuilds are kind of expensive but if you save and plan for them it just becomes apart of maintenance the way other cars get timing chains done. The shut off timer and the 2 stroke oil reservoir are there to basically make it much harder to treat it bad.
@@jabadahut50 I think Its because it is over shadowed by the FD RX7 which is more sportier, lighter and nimble. The Rx8 is great and all, but I personally would swap out the rotary for the K20 from the Honda. It's also high revving and tunable. Or do you just like the Rotary as well as the Rx8 you own?
The moment I saw the title I knew the 13B Renesis would be on top of this list. That motor is a special type of legendary 😄, my cousin has MY04 and I have never seen him drive it, just always parked due to continual issues.
@@jatinsidhu8639 if you need to work on them all day they are not amazing. An engine that can’t got 100k mi In stock form without a rebuild is far from amazing.
@@DavesWhips so half the mileage of every other Japanese 4 cyl? And that makes it good? It’s an amazing motor to drive, but it’s not a good motor. Think of what your talking about. A motor making it 115k without a rebuild is something to celebrate. I love the fd, one of the best cars ever made, but it’s not something most people can deal with.
in the netherlands the mazda rx8 doesnt need an emission check at the yearly inspection cause there's no point lol it only needs an visible cat(whatever that means)
I have the twin turbo EJ208 on my JDM Subaru B4 RSK, never had any engine issue or turbos issue. Maintain your car, i change my oil every 5000 km and i wait awhile before using the 2 turbos. Also JDM cars have to be tuned for your local gas if you don't have 100 octane nearby.
had a stock 12 sti. changed oil every 2000 miles. drove it every day it didnt sit but i didnt have to drive far either. Warmed it up in the morning. Blew 2 motors in 6 months after owning the car for 2 years. Cyl 4 misfire. Cracked broke ringland first time. second time cracked piston. I sold car for a 19 camaro ss. Dont just tell people to maintain it. You have the twin turbo which wasnt even mentioned. EJ257 is such a bad motor there are 5 seperate class action law suit groups.
I own a FC and I can confirm the cost of repair is very high IF you wait till it goes boom. I pulled my 13b out at 60k on last rebuild because is noticed it was burning a touch of coolant. Could smell in the exhaust but no white cloud. Everything has be replaced or rebuilt except my rear cradle bushings. I know it's slow but they are so much fun. Shifting gears at 8k rpm in a 80s car is a blast. If you don't know how to do the work yourself then they are way to expensive for the average person. You have to WANT to keep these cars going. When they brake down you hate them and want to rid yourself of it. But when you finally getting it running again it like a drug addiction. You can't get enough.
115k miles on my RX8 and runs like a clock. I upgraded the coils & starter, Sohn adapter, premix and switched to 10w40. Now I just do oil changes every year and keep the 2t oil reservoir topped up. Also, 8k for a rebuild?! Don't know about US prices but that sounds way too expensive, in Europe a brand new Renesis from Mazda is under 5k.
Hadn't thought the 6G72 (incorrectly labelled in that picture, it is a 3.0 not a 3.8, the 3.8 being the 6G75) could be a bit of a pain to work on. What i have as my daily has that engine, a 1997 Magna, also known as the Diamante elsewhere. Has about 220,000 kms & still runs fine, never any issues & have taken good care of it in the 10 years i've owned it. Although this video has had some inaccuracies (like the Mitsubishi V6 being incorrectly labeled at the start) along with misinformation about the Nissan VG30, as people have pointed out as well.
@@Raikokz As the NA'd one (totally stock) in what i have & would be staying that way. Good to know that it might get issues if anything is done to it, and that the one in the GTO/3000GT & Dodge Stealth, can be a bit iffy like were mentioned here
@@Raikokz Ah alright, though what i have have is slower than what you have, guess it'd be a case of the tortoise & the hare even you could say. Slower, but more reliable, the other being quicker, but not as reliable. Would still be a fun one to drive would say, the GTO
The fact that he quoted every subaru owner spot on. Whenever I say they are junk it's always the same response. I've had mine forever and haven't had a single issue. That's weird when the subaru shop I worked at was busier than Volvo, BMW and Ford put together, and we only have a single bmw dealer in the state
I 100% stick with Toyota these days, but even then (besides my rock solid 94' Camry) both my other cars have some pretty huge and well known issues straight from the factory. My 88' Supra came with wrongly torqued head studs from the factory as they all did which blows headgaskets, but luckily I bought it with that already fixed. My new 01' Celica GT-S is notorious for breaking the two lift bolts that give it boost at 6.2K RPM and of course mine are broke. $1,200 fix just to extract the broken metal from the rocker.
Remember guys the 6k he said for a rebuilt for the renesis is cap first, second the most common problem the renesis meet is the Coolant seals or oil control seals go bad that's why they are smoking and for that in parts you could maybe spend like 300usd + the work if a shop does it for you which depends from the shop, I asked a price once and from a garage that specializes on rotaries said if it just o rings it will cost around 1.2k
as and owner of an rx8 i cant believe the hate of the renesis is my daily and i have 0 problems also i rebuilt it 2 years ago when i it has 180k miles on it and it was running perfect i just want to bridgeported it and put everything new on it but it was perfect. as an rotary owner the only thing you need to know is that you need to premix with idemitsu or renewable lubricants also use idemitsu engine oil. the cooling system need to be in good condition the problem with the car is the ecu have alot of restrictions because of the emitions so you need to reflash the ecu and make the A/F ratio better and the fans will start earlier . if you gonna buy one first need to do compression test after that if everything is good then you start to do the real maintenance . also rev it to 10k to clean the carbon deposit always prem fuel & respect temperatures its like any other car just a little bit different. change the oil and filter every 3k miles
As a long time 3vze owner with over 220k original miles, I feel you. Another annoying setback people often fail to mention about these engines is that the head and block are made of different materials. This means coolant cannot contain the optimal corrosion resistant additives for either iron or aluminum, because each additive is corrosive towards one or the other. As a result, if water or non-red coolant is EVER added to the engine, it rusts the engine and turns the coolant into red chocolate milk. This reduces its effectiveness and increases wear on the water pump. It will be this way forever. I have to do a full coolant flush yearly or it sludges up inside the throttle body and the engine won't idle under 2K RPM. I'm on my 2nd water pump in 100K, all because the previous owner was a liar and a flipper. He left a leak when he sold it to me, just topping the system off with water when it got low. Everything you need to do on this engine also requires removing the annoying intake plenum with a rats nest of vacuum lines. Because these engines are so reviled, parts for it are sometimes rare and expensive like the power steering pump and gearbox, AC components, etc. But like you said, I am basically doing the bare minimum to keep it on the road hoping it will pop any day so I can get a taco engine and it will NOT quit. I've had it for over 4 years with this intent to swap it when it went, but it just keeps going!
The only Subaru that suffers from head gasket issues is the naturally aspirated 2.5 single over head cam. Beyond that not a single other car has head gasket problems. This was the only engine to have a coated single layer head gasket and the coating would wear away after time causing them to leak. Upgrading to the multilayered turbo gaskets fixes this issue.
Bought a brand new Loyale in 1991 as our first family car (with 4wd, air, manual and electric windows, big step up for a young teacher and family for $11,999 and the cool part-time 4 wd red button on top of the shift knob but don't go above 60 with it engaged!) and it had continuous problems with oil starvation in anything resembling an enthusiastic turn (especially left turns!). The dealer installed a new baffled oil pan which helped but never fully eliminated the fun clanking and occasional related smoke, ahhhhhh Subaru........
The 08+ ej25 pan is a better design which mostly fixes the issue. Some company (honey bee something?) took it a few steps further but the price is cringeworthy
My 2005 RX8 6 speed is still running great being 19 years old now. Regular maintenance at a Mazda service center and keeping everything stock and OEM is the key to reliability. Knowing how to properly treat and run an unconventional engine such as a rotary engine is also key for its reliability.
People need to stop thinking of the rotary as unreliable. Its more of a racing engine that was put in an economical car. All racing engines do what they do best and then get rebuilt. People dont complain about italian exotics when they have to be rebuilt or torn down they just do it and enjoy it for many more years to come. So in a sense its a Japanese exotic. If they treated it as such we would still be running them today but people are cheap so mazda doesnt care. Aside from emissions Mazda would move planets if it was profitable for them. Goes for any major company.
The major power problem behind the 3VZ engine is the fact that (in a pickup) the passenger side cylinders deal with double the exhaust pressure due to a cat'd crossover pipe that links both exhaust manifolds. Decat this pipe or go the header route & all is good. (Yes it does have a main cat under the cab)
Also not to mention the other engine option for north america out shined it in almost every way. The 22r/re did make less power but it drove so much better as it made all its torque down low. Ive owned a number of these pickups over the years and the 22re variants are by far the better option.
I always thought the NA subaru cooling system needed a expansion tank like the German makes. (expansion tank is different from the over flow tank. Turbo models have a expansion tank)
3000GT- Lifter tick- replace the lifters. 1g or '99 DOHC. 1g is preferred (i want to keep my oil in the oil pan, not shoot it all into the cyl head) Miles of vacuum lines?- Vac delete. you really buy some silicone vac caps and remove a bracket or two and fixes all of it in about 3 minutes Timing belt?- Manual timing tensioner. Vice grips with rags to pad the timing belt so you dont gnaw it up. OR...take some folded up paper and stick it under the cam caps to help keep the cam gears stationary. I can set timing on my car in about 45 minutes start to finish.
What is stupid tho is the amount of bracketry involved when working on a 100% stock car. I think i removed about 22lbs of unnecessary iron, and it makes the car SO much easier to work on.
Funny... I own a Rx8 and it feels like the engine is literally the last thing that will let me down! My car has been hugely reliable over the past 3 years. But she's 17 years old, now, so some age related wear and tear issues are slowly appearing... The paint on the bonnet fades at a different rate than the paint on the bumper. The chassis is still clean for a UK car but will need to be treated for rust prevention this year or I will at some point have to fork out big money for welding works. The sump is still clean, but on those cars, they tend to rust... My oil line connectors have started corroding, so that will need to be changed in the next two years or so to avoid having to deal with leaks... The passenger airbag cover cracked last year and had to be swapped. I have to keep an eye on the clutch pedal and the rear springs (two weak spots on the car that can fail with time). The engine? Purrs like a kitten! Early Renesis failed prematurely because Mazda's servicing schedule was not adapted to it: They tried to sell a rotary engine with the servicing schedule of a piston engine. That was never going to work! Early coils and starter motors were also weak. All that has been solved. Maintain your car well and that engine will serve you a long time... Oh, and treat that engine like a consumable: It will need a rebuild at some point. But it should be reliable all the way up until then!
More of a question for other commenters than a comment - can *anybody* recall what the sudden loss of oil pressure without any warning whatsoever was all about in the early KLZE Mazda V6's (1993-1995.5ish most common in the 626, MX-6 and *some* Probes yes got the JDM "Z" engine not a US spec "D")? It was just the early ones but I blew up at least 3 back in the day and can't for the life of me remember what Mazda changed to fix it around '94 whilst affected ones continued until stock dried up around middle '95 (you either got the good revision engine in '94 or the unmodified and there's no real way to know which one you got). That was my favorite Mazda v6 ever and 3 of at least 6 or 7 I've owned had the sudden oiling problem which grenades the engine spectacularly, always over 6,500rpm when the oil pressure decided to quit. Been so long now I can't remember what the issue was, but it was thoroughly asinine & inexcusable that much I can remember. Back in the 90's you could buy used Japanese engines straight from Japan cheaper than anything you could get from the junkyard no matter how old it was, THAT I miss dearly. There's still quite a few KLZE and KLDE out in the wild today
I had a 2001 Subaru Forester S turbo here in Scotland aswell mine was mint burned 0 oil and the only reason i sold it was because rust got it the guy i sold it too spent 2-3 grand on it and its got a wrx subframe as mine literally the left half rotted away 4.5 kgs of sheet metal too read suspension turrets i saw it once drive past me couldn’t believe it 119,000 miles when i sold it full service history completely stock
Back in the day my first car had a NA G54B in my bought new 1983 Plymouth Sapporo/Dodge Challenger, the Starion's/Conquest's predecessor. I made more than the stock turbo Starion's 150 hp with a ported head, mild 3/4 race cam, a set of 4 into 1 headers and pair of 44mm Mikuni side draft carburetors. Without the head gasket issues of turbo G54B's.
I personally owned a n RX-8 and previously and RX-7. Main thing is people shouldt treat Rotary Engine like they do Piston Engines. If you redline it before the end of each drive before shutting it off your engine will last longer (Not reving it while turning the key to off...that is stupid). Carbon build up is the main culprit for engine wear for Rotary. I personally had my RX-7 at 168,000 miles and still running...hard to pass emissions but still runs 😅. My RX-8 past 120,000 mile before getting on an accident, but again original engine. But everyone else who dont even have an RX-8 swear by it will blow up and die before 80,000 miles...well yeah if you treat it and drive it like a piston engine. Rotary will last a long time if people just reset their minds how to maintain it and stop treating it like they do piston engines.
I have a 3000gt sitting in the garage which needs a new timing belt. It ran fine, I pulled it into the garage under it's own power and it ran well, but on inspection I discovered the timing belt was very very loose- it slides off the Cam Gears very easily and there's probably 2-3 inches of play where the belt slacks- shouldn't be more than an inch, while tinkering I slipped the belt off by accident and it snapped out of time (cams hold a bit of tension)- never tried turning it over since but I know it'll run great once I have the Money to fix it and change all the fluids/filters, and there's no Cam knock- it's a beautiful sounding Vehicle- only downside is light hail damage. So ya- you're right on that one, it is a PAIN IN THE ASS to replace the timing belt and it's kind of expensive- just the parts alone cost 500-600 bucks (belt, water pump, tensioner and required accessory parts), then if you have someone else do it it's about double that cost judging on a few quotes i've gotten. I do look forward to having it running again, People don't know what kind of Car it is these Days since they're so rare which I kind of like.
i had to rebuild my qr25de so many times in my sentra SE-R specv, I was able to start at 9 and replace all 4 pistons and rods and have the motor back together by lunch.
Before the vid started i was like "You better not include the 13B ffs. Its reliable with good care and mods" first one it showed i just went flying across the room.
Most people don’t understand or fear rotaries but they are very reliable with some love and attention to detail. Especially keeping oil changed regularly, strong spark and keeping them cool. Yes they won’t do 300k on original seals but the trade off is definitely worth it for such a unique and characterful engine, which for a 1.3L no piston engine can compare power wise . I love my renesis rotary rx8. It is Mazdas most powerful NA 13B which sounds amazing and loves to rev ! It’s not supercar fast but enough to beat some of the modern factory turbo boys .
As subbie guy i agree EJ25, EJ255, EJ257 arent good engines but when people saying all EJ are rubish is just plain stupid, maintain them and they will work. Porsche uses boxer engines as well but i dont see people saying Porsche burns gaskets and has bearing problems 😄 just pure subaru hating i think, Subaru boxer 6 engines are desinged by Porsche btw.
I think one of the issues is Subarus do not like being pushed without a rebuild. The EJ253 suffers the most gasket failures on stock tune from having worse gasket design, open deck, and lower torque specs. On the other hand, head gasket issues seem to be overshadowed by oil starvation.
@@meercm i mean same desing, there is problems with 2.5l boxer engines i advice to everyone not to buy them, but what comes to smaller EJs they work just fine if you maintain them and dont abuse them, and Subarus six cylinder boxer IS desinged by Porsche. My parents have 3.0R Outback 2004 400tkm and works like a clock, my 1993 Subaru legacy 200 turbo 370tkm and works like a clock. Its how you keep your car in the end you can destroy any engine by giving F about maintain and driving like a maniac 😄
First engine I’ve ever pulled and worked on is a VG30DETT. After learning how to work and maintain that motor I can confidently say that any other motor should be a piece of cake 😂. VG are cool but an absolute PAIN!
Not defending Subaru or any thing but i have a 2004 blobeye it has 155000 km on it and it still has the original engine from the factory and never even been touched. But of course that brings us back to what you already mentioned that if it's taken care properly it won't brake down... (As most cars will)
7m Toy/Yamaha enthusiasts here love it not worth the hate, blown heads is more of meme than actual fact. The truth to this scrutiny is back in the day Toyota had its torque specs wrong All you have to do is tighten down a little bit further and regular routine, maintenance and it will last forever. The only downside to the motor is that when building a high horse power variant of the 7m the parts are more expensive than its 1j or 2j counterparts. With that said respect the O.G.
EJ20's from late 80's to 1995 had a closed deck sand cast block that did not blow head gaskets and would take big boost because they were made to compete in open class rallys . head gasket problems started in 1996 with the open deck die cast blocks that were used when rally engine power restrictors were brought in to rally if you want to build a high power suby find a closed deck block from a legacy or wrx prior to 1995 , wrx sti version 1/2 do very high mileage before failing , but as americans think that wrx imprezas started in 2000 + when the best EJ's are earlier .
We did get the Phase I 22T in the BC Legacy, but it was tuned pathetically conservatively (I think about 160hp) so nobody cared about it or took care of them.
My 91 liberty 2.2 shat both headgaskets at about 100,000kms. Its a long term issue. Not confined to turbos. Its a subaru thing. Their reputation for bulletproof engining is the single least deserved rep ive ever heard of. I see dead subarus EVERYWHERE. All the time.
The 6g72 is extremely reliable. They made an insane number of those engines and put them in monteros and diamante as well as chrysler applications and the 3g eclipse. The 3000gt twin turbo models in the early years had issues with spinning rods, and over about 600 hp start having issues with flexing heads, but the majority of the reliability issues on that platform come from the electronics/other things external to the engine. A platform being unreliable is different than an engine being unreliable. Also the 3000gt got bought up by cheap owners who didn't properly maintain their cars which didn't help the reputation at all. They told you to change your timing belt every 60k miles for a reason.....
The qr25de relies on oil pressure to activate the chain tensioner. Giving that rattle in start up process. Mines been doing it for ages now I'd rather replace the whole engine rather than do the trimming chain repair.
shouldve added the first gen toyota 2gr-fe. The timing gear issue, the oil feed lines prone to breaking because theyre made out of rubber that can grenade your engine at any time AND the silly little vvti oil line filter that can get clogged up are all big issues.
I'm piping in here on my personal RX8 and my experience has been pure reliability since owning it 3 years now. Most issues around them are numpties who don't know rotaries or how to look after a renesis. Sorry but that's the truth. Rebuilds are expensive though and that sorts the poor buyers from the ones with money and skill
You failed to mention with the QR25 is that they blow head gaskets all the time and also the CVT is a pile of junk and also had a grounding issue with the valve body which cant be repaired due to electeical resistance so a new valve body is needed. Another thing that makes the EJ25 a terrible engine is that it takes less time to replace the timing belt than the spark plugs since the engine has to be removed for spark plugs like why?
Every Starion Turbo I knew of back in the day ,spun a rod bearing before 100k miles. Including my own. The top 5 worst Japanese automobile engines are all Mitsubishi.
S54 owner.... Are you saying EJ engines like to ingest bearings as well? As often or not? I have a feeling a lot of cars eat bearings quite consistently. Most of them are snotboxes that people either scrap or throw a scrap yard engine in and have no idea why it died.
We can all agree that if you're broke, don't stress your car to its limits! If you're in a situation that the car broke and you cannot fix it because you don't have the money, tools or skills, then it's all on you bro!
My 91 300zx made it to 228k miles till it started acting like a v4 despite replacing all vacuum lines, coil packs, sparkplugs, idle sensor, MAF, TPS sensor, throttle body cleaning, fuel Pressure regulator, pCv valve, fuel filter, and so many other parts i dont remember. It was a good run, but i never buy one again even though i got it for $1500
Mazda's rotary engine was subjected to years of engineering sabotage. There are only two real problems with this engine: 1. The spark plug holes, which should be spark plug slots the same width as the apex seal. 2. The domes in the rotors should have been offset. A shade tree mechanic named Ernie Brink figured this out. But the best engineers in Japan couldn't for some reason. Something is wrong with this picture.
The 4B11T is worse than the EJ25. Neither were great though. And the Mitsu unit will hold a little more power, however almost everything connected to the engine including the factory turbo was delicate to say the least.
*What is the most UNRELIABLE engine you know of?!*
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Any Audi or bmw engine
And the triton v8
2.8 liter from gm.
Tesla
Ej25
JDM means Japanese domestic market. It does not mean Japanese made sold here.
thx! I hate that everyone calls a Japanese car a JDM even if its LHD and was sold in a different country...
No one asked
@@ericinegbedion688 but everyone misinformation
I know already
@@ericinegbedion688 yeah but everyone keeps misusing it so many fucking times
Alot of people and even me love the 300zx, it's just the way Nissan made it super hard to do any engine work. Having to drop the engine every single time you want or have to do something. Mad respect for 300 owners out there keeping it alive.
Got an '86 anniversary edition turbo and I've gotta completely refresh the engine and I'm in no way looking forward to it but it's on a back log of other project cars, lmao.
I'm glad the VG30DETT is included. It will keep inexperienced people from buying them up. I loveeed mine. Need another one.
litteraly my first car and your right
They’re literally the best! Just a tight fit and that’s literally the only issue lol
@Silas I've had both the VG30DE (300ZX NA) and the VG30DETT (300zX TT) and with the VG030DE the only issues I had were the injectors and the starter at some point. Pretty reliable engine.
Ong bro 300zx z32 is my first car and I’ve done the timing belt it’s really not THAT hard to work on ppl r just bitches
They’re actually not that bad to work on I bought one with no prior experience
Renesis rx8 owner here it's not really that bad if you maintain it. It's bad if you don't change oil, overheat it, turn it off before it's warm, never check your plugs, leads or coils etc. Power is pretty low I will say but driving for a bit of fun is really good.
i have 231hp rx8 and although it seems like a low power for todays standards rx8 is very light and very fun to drive, especially in the corners the 50/50 mass with low gravity point is great asf. And it's true that you have to take care of it. Not a good idea for a daily car imo. I upgraded intake and exhaust and on a straight I get 6s from 0 to 100kph - imo not that bad too.
Ideal media farkn full of shit
My buddy had one in highschool.
I had a 71 Plymouth valiant 4door 318 that was also rated at 230hp.
And I could SPANK that Mazda.
ANd got better mpg.
That’s embarrassing.
Oh and mine was like almost 40yo before his was new
@@fastinradfordable try to spank it on corners 😏
@@fastinradfordable and saved a lot on car payments too
A note on the QR25DE. Much of the problems it has was resolved by it's second generation around 2008-9, where it became a stable but average workhorse engine. Unfortunately the CVTs that are attached to these engines became the next big problem.
The qr25de engine in the nissan frontier is absolutely bulletproof. I maintain a fleet of them. We have a few over 300k miles and our current highest milage qr25de is at 340k (and counting).
@@inoahmann7542 yep they are good just gotta know how to drive it and do mataince on it
Most of the issues with the qr25 sucking in pre cat material was only on manual transmissions during engine braking. If you delete the precat before it kills the engine, its pretty reliable
I have an auto '08 altima, I think I'm at around 217,000 miles, I think I got the car with around 180,000 miles. I actually love this engine, it surprised the shit out of me when I changed my oil and 4.5 of the 5 quarts i put in drained out, my lady has an '11 CR-V and out of the 5 quarts I put in, about 2 or 3 quarts will drain out, that's one thirsty ass engine.
One of the bigger problems i have ran into on these engines is spinning the rod bearing on cylinder 3 for the Sentra versions. I have had 5 engines do this. My summation is how the exhaust pipe runs right below cylinder 3 and causes the bearing to heat up. Now I should also say these are when really pushing the engine non-boosted but still driven hard. I run headers so the cat issues have never been a problem and the recall fix was done on the butterfly valve in the intake at some point. latest engine is a JDM with ~45k on it not sure what it came out of but i think it was an X-Trail. luckily the engines are cheap and they were in almost every Altima ever so plenty of stock out there.
3000gt 6g72 owner here, the early engines (pre 93) had a 2 bolt main bearing which was increased to 4 bolt mains due to early engines spinning bearings, alot of these engines get destroyed by people who don't know how to do the timing belt properly and dont set the eclipse pully in the correct smiley position (if you know, you know), ive built a few of these over 10 years and the 4bolt engines will hold over 500ft/lbs with supporting mods and a good tune relatively re4liably before having to tear the block down :)
QR25DE is a great engine! So easy to work on! 2005+ are super reliable, they fixed the cat issues, and butterfly screw issues. As long as you keep up with oil changes, you don't have to worry about the timing chain (owner of a 2006 Nissan Xtrail QR25DE)
The old 12A rotary in my rx7 is rock solid and dead reliable. Its honestly impressive, I dont go easy on it but it just keeps on going. Its all about the maintenance with these things. Sometimes though, the older stuff is just better
Friend from Sweden owns FB. Late August he passed 500k Km (300k miles). Carburated, turbocharged - record was 304 BHP but he toned it back to 180 after he become a parent. Never had a broken seal or any problem just taking care of it, driving long distances and every once in a while he takes the engine out, puts it on dinning table saturday morning, new seals, decarbon and woala back into car in sunday lunch so he can check it later and drive to work on monday. Now I am a proud owner on FC thanks to him.
most people who vote for the rotary actually never owned one
@@KenanRaptor most people, who say it is terrible, usually owned RX8 and used it as a city/family car. Renesis is a ruined engine cuz its stock lubrication sucks + drive it short distances like going shopping 5-10 minutes away from house twice a day. Double NoNo for seals and rotor housings.
@@KenanRaptor and aerospace engineer never flew a rocket. Doesnt matter if people have owned one, engineers can tell instantly what the problem was. (Owners and emissions)
My Rx8 one is absolutely perfect even with 150 000km on it
What people fail to understand is, they are sport cars, you need to maintain them as such.
And not like your grandma's old Ford that can probably run with gravel instead of engine oil.
There's tuning company in NJ that specializes in LS swaps in late model Nissan products called Lion of Judah(LOJ) . On "Smoking Tire" they featured a costumer's Z32 300ZX twin turbo 2+2 that ditched the stock VG30DETT for a Heads and Cam LQ9 which not only simplified the complexity of the 300ZX but also produced more HP and TQ than the VG30DETT. The kicker was that the iron block LQ9 was in fact lighter than the stock VG30DETT which gave the Z32 300ZX better weight distribution and handling.
Man..drive a z32 300zx once and you will understand why it’s the best JDM of the 90s and the most fun to own and drive. It’s worth learning a little about its engine and how to simplify it.
The Z has always been a fun sports car throughout its looong history
The 3VZ-FE was only used in front wheel drive Toyotas...by that I mean the Camry. It *never* had the head gasket issues that the 3VZ-E had. The 3VZ-FE shouldn't be on this list at all.🤦♂️
The thing you have to remember about the 7M-GTE is, yes it was a bad design and yes most people who bought a 15+ year old one had issues, BUT it was an engine released in the mid eighties and was the seventh generation of a design from the sixties, of course it looks bad from a modern point of view but you have to take these things into account when discussing a 36 year old turbocharged engine. On a side note, the fact that Toyota went from the 7M-GTE prototype to the 1JZ-GTE prototype in under three years is genuinely impressive (yes, credit to Yamaha).
Rx8 owner here, been reliable so far
Same, 1 year in no real issues. 07 6 speed. After you do the research and keep up maintenance you don't really worry about It.
As for the QR25DE these are the solutions to your commentary:
1. Replace the factory manifold with a header and use a spark plug non-fouler to prevent triggering the 0420 CAT code.
2. Remove the top half of the intake manifold and loctite the butterfly screws one at a time and reassemble the manifold.
3. The QR uses oil pressure to tension the timing chain. If you run too low on oil, the chain can go slack and turn your engine into a boat anchor.
I had an 02 SE-R that I bought new and did 1. and 2. at around 20K, and it lasted `50K until i got rear ended and it was totaled. If you buy a used one, do an oil consumption test immediately and loctite the butterfly screws. Then get a header.
I've been working at Nissan for the past 10 Years the QR25DE engine has the least amount of problems...it's been used since T30 till now the T32 model even on the L33.
You've confused the difference between the 3vz-e and the 3vz-fe again. The 3vz-e is the one in the truck with head gasket issues. The -fe is in the camry. Different engines.
The EJ25 is only reliable if the maintenance is performed down to a T. If done they do last very high mileage. I'd argue most bad engines would last long with strong maintenance services. Also did BMW get a pass or will they get their own list because they have that many bad ones?
its a car for enthusiasts.
@@conorhoade8793 What's that?
You sir are correct. They are very delicate engines that do need a lot of maintenance. Oil changes every 2500-3000k miles with very good oil. You also need a few upgrades to further make the engine more reliable like a killer b oil pick up pan/tube, as well as a catch can or aos & most importantly a Cobb Acessport. The common misconception about ejs is that people trying to push 400+ hp & blow it up driving like a speed racer every day & wonder why it blew up 200 miles after. They are great & fun cars but you need to be prepared on future maintenance/upgrades to prolonging the life of the engine before buying one.
They don’t even need to be maintained that well, they just can’t be modded incorrectly. Had an 02 that went 230k miles and I used to get the oil changed at jiffy lube if I got lazy. And when I did it myself Walmart oil in it. Only thing done to it was a reflash.
I had an 04 that I bought new and ran to 100k. I did turbo swap on it, but always made sure the last step of a mod install after I tightened the last bolt, was to go grab my laptop or accessport and reflash the proper map for it.
There are a lot of people throw mods on before having the tune ready. They know they need it, but for some reason throw the parts on and think they can “wait” and do it in a few months or weeks. No, needs it immediately before you even drive it.
Most people don’t make their ej’s like they should and don’t care enough to take care of it, but when u do u can push 800+ unopened like on the ra ej’s and fa20’s I’ve seen hold 650 unopened and the fa24 could possibly hold as much if not more then 800
I own 2 RX8's, both 80k miles+ and they're running solid. Granted, my R3 is now struggling cold, but it's been smashed by the previous owner. If done correctly, the rotary works amazingly. But I drive in a way that works with a rotary powered car. Some one looking for that low end poke and an easy to use engine will not enjoy it
Nissan ZD30 turbo diesel. Not known in the US since it wasn't imported to the US along with a whole host of JDM turbodiesels. Powered various Nissan SUVs and pickups in including the Navara and Patrol as an option. It was nicknamed the 'Grenade' and that gives you an idea about the eventual fate of these engines.
Can confirm, have one in right now (machine shop). The balance shaft bearings spun so bad that they had to source a new/used block from Australia.
Hahaha can confirm, my mate picked up a low km Navara with the ZD30 and it immediately died.
The early ones were the issues the commonrail zd30s are fine
In the honorable mention, the 3vz fe in the third gen Camry was shown. The 3vz fe was only inside the third gen Camry from 92-93. After that the 1mz fe engine was put inside. That engine is the real workhorse that made Camrys known to last a long time.
This engine seems pretty reliable but average. Somehow the video implies just because it isn't a fun engine, it's also unreliable and junk, as if fun equates with reliability.
@@ChrisRobato you just just contradicted yourself, hurts to read that, confusing, it's actually a reliable engine
@@chrisgomez3078 Yes it is a truly reliable engine.
@@ChrisRobato 😅 sorry I just read that properly, my bad
the 3vzfe didnt have head gasket issues like it was said. It was a great engine. The problem engine is the 3vz-e in the trucks, very different motor, non forged crank, not revvy etc
I had a VG33 in my Nissan Hardbody. Sold it as 418k km and issues were minimal even though it was a workhorse. A frequent oil change goes a long way. Even if it is only 3.8L by the owners manual (which is small for that engine size)
Worked at a Lincoln-Mercury dealer four years when the Villager had that engine. I never pulled one and never saw anyone in the shop pull one.
Fun fact about the 6G7X- they're neigh impossible to kill. Cracked blocks, holes in piston heads, etc, they'll run absolutely forever. Probably the best 90's v6 ever engineered, tbh.
If not the tt version then yea
I have owned a total of 11 TT Stealths and still own 2 one with over 250 thousand miles. Neglect and kids owning them was the main problem. Getrag trans was the real problem in my book.
I think you meant the 3VZE not the FE. The FE was a camry engine and I am pretty sure they are seen as reliable as was the 5VZFE that replaced the 3VZE in trucks.
ima have to say it you don’t buy an rx8 if u give a shit about reliability u buy an rx8 cause you want a nicer miata
Buddy owned one for a few years right after high-school. Thing was fun as hell. Blew it up 3 times before he sold it and the next guy wrapped it around a tree😅😂
I owned a 2003 Sentra Spec V with the qr25de, went through 2 motors because of that exact problem before i sold it. Bright side was i think the altima/maxima at the time ran the same engine so an engine replacement was always readily available and cheap at that.
I had an 02. After an engine swap and precat removal, it was a solid car
10:20 , as owner of a dyno tuned sentra SE-R spec-V, 2008 with a QR25, it really depends which QR25 version you get and how you mod it. Mine came stock with forged internals, and is currently n/a dyno tuned to over 230 whp.
SE-R 🔥
I remember when those came out. I wanted one so bad but I couldn't afford it. Didn't they make 175hp stock with a 5 speed or was it six?
@@Cmobley_ The spec V has a six speed :)
In all irony, the million mile Nissan Frontier, a 2007 that reached six zeros on the odometer, used a QR25DE engine.
Massive failure in the journalism behind the VG30DETT. For starters, the vaccum diagram you posted was for a single cam VG30DET, which is the previous generation of the engine you are referring to. Yes, that engine has an overly complicated vaccum system... one that was simplified in the next generation. Secondly, it may not be an OBD2 capable, but there is plenty of diagnostic software options that can help with running ECU codes... and as a matter of fact, you can run the trouble codes without needing any diagnostic software, as it can be done through the ECUs built-in troubleshooting mode. On a last note, yes - the engine is a bit complex and not easy to work on, but it also has a lot of tech innovations that engines didn't have before, such as variable valve timing. A lot of these systems are deleted or simplified to reduce the complexity of working on these engines.
Thank you someone actually knows
Hell yeah bro! Plus, these people have no idea how much raw and engaging driving a 300zx is
This guy gets it. Long live the Z! Hey, even supermodels have issues.
How did the fa-20 from the 86/brz not make this list? They spin rod bearings like they were designed for it. 💀
"How did the fa-20 from the 86/brz not make this list? They spin rod bearings like they were designed for it"
Im a year late to this, but:
Thats pretty much only a "concern" if youre regularly letting your oil run low (These engines, like most, will burn oil as they get up on life- and its not uncommon for people to not give 2 thoughts to their oil between changes, allowing them to run low), or 2, if youre tracking the car quite a bit, and over heating the oil regularly.
For day to day, or light track use- Most people dont really have too much issue. And if youre going to track your car hard/often, you should have an oil cooler anyways, which drastically helps alleviate the bearing concerns.
The reason why it spins rod bearings has nothing to do with the Oil itself but the Oil pickup.. The Gasket maker that subaru used to seal the pan togheter doesent hold up and ends up in the pan which then clogs the pickup@@SidewaysGts
@@insector2093 Dont forget its not just the gasket. Even in newer ones when they track the car, it will most likely spin a bearing, because the oil pan is not designed for taking too many turns, and basically starves the engine of oil.
@@SidewaysGtstheyre notorious here in 🇦🇺 for shitting themselves. Stock. Not tracked. Not flogged. They just blow up.
They don't. What happens is some dumb kids let the oil get so low and then when the engine shits itself, they blame the car instead of themselves.
As a Subaru "builder", I can say yes they have their problems, but I had 350k km on my 06 wrx stock motor/ turbo/ trans. Since then I've rebuilt 3 times due to oil pressure/ pump issues causing rod bearing wear/ noise. Pistons are 08+, head gaskets are pre-05. With the parts involved in the 06/07 wrx they are the best ones for reliability, tuning, design overall.
How is the reliability or longevity if taken care of on 2009-2014 WRX’s? Thanks.
@@TheRandomname951 maintenence is key, & proper warm up/ cool down (after hard driving). & using proper oil filters also, there's a bypass valve in the filter & some cheaper ones are not high enough pressure before the filter closes, leaving your oil to never get filtered out etc. Wix filters are the same psi as Subaru filters. There's a few discussions about the factory tuning being too emissions friendly causing spark knock/ wear/ problems. & in 08+ they switched the pistons & started getting the ringland problems, which has been attributed to the factory tune etc. My mom had a '13 with 250k km on it before a crash. Early oil changes, oem filters, not modified & always warned up etc.
Having an rx8 engine. The moment it's rebuilt with the necessary upgrades and notes, it becomes more reliable. Had mines rebuilt with the necessary mods along with some added added mods to help with longevity but also power wise it hasn't caused any issues since.
I agree the rotary engine can be made very reliable now days
@@jatinsidhu8639 I agree. I've gone 4 years now so far with my rebuilt with only 10k miles. Pretty good. Planning to overhaul it one more time and upgrade it to a Bridgeport along with better oil lines and other better things as well as new ECU now that Cobb is no longer supported and I'm still running a legacy tune from my Cobb Accessport.
You got a reliable engine for about 50K miles?
Can a rotary engine be possible for daily commute?
The rx8 can be very reliable with some modification... cut out the oil metering pump and add a separate 2 stroke oil reservoir. (will help with emissions too as 2 stroke oil burns cleaner than dirty 4 stroke oil) also despite bieng a non turbo you want a shut off timer to prevent the engine from shutting off until its UP to temperature
😌... we have a genius over here👑
@@atlegangletsoge6165 tbf I never said do this over just getting a new car... this is one of those "I love my rx8 and my rotary" things. The rx8 is one of those "it takes a special type of person to love this" cars
@@jabadahut50 oh no, I'm not gonna do that... I wasn't even planning on getting an RX8, it's just that you are giving some great tip to all of us car guys who think the RX8 is Bad while it actually isn't 👑
@@atlegangletsoge6165 bad is somewhat subjective... a car that can flood its own engine on a dime and has to be rebuilt every 50,000 miles is to most people a bad car. I look at it this way though, the rx8 is a sports car. It wasn't meant to be your daily driver super reliable... you want that? Get a Toyota. You want a light weight super high revving fun machine that might break if you treat it wrong? Rx8 is your friend. The rebuilds are kind of expensive but if you save and plan for them it just becomes apart of maintenance the way other cars get timing chains done. The shut off timer and the 2 stroke oil reservoir are there to basically make it much harder to treat it bad.
@@jabadahut50 I think Its because it is over shadowed by the FD RX7 which is more sportier, lighter and nimble. The Rx8 is great and all, but I personally would swap out the rotary for the K20 from the Honda. It's also high revving and tunable. Or do you just like the Rotary as well as the Rx8 you own?
The moment I saw the title I knew the 13B Renesis would be on top of this list. That motor is a special type of legendary 😄, my cousin has MY04 and I have never seen him drive it, just always parked due to continual issues.
They are really cool, but ya. A motor that will require a rebuild every 50k isn't something that should be in a production car.
Trust me I work on 13bs all day and their amazing
@@jatinsidhu8639 if you need to work on them all day they are not amazing.
An engine that can’t got 100k mi In stock form without a rebuild is far from amazing.
@@AB-nv7bzIt can. My friends made it to 130,000 mine made 115 without anything like premix.
@@DavesWhips so half the mileage of every other Japanese 4 cyl? And that makes it good?
It’s an amazing motor to drive, but it’s not a good motor.
Think of what your talking about. A motor making it 115k without a rebuild is something to celebrate.
I love the fd, one of the best cars ever made, but it’s not something most people can deal with.
The 22b has oil squirters for the pistons and a closed deck block like the ej22t. Only difference is dohc vs sohc.
in the netherlands the mazda rx8 doesnt need an emission check at the yearly inspection cause there's no point lol it only needs an visible cat(whatever that means)
For a shorter time trying a 4 rotor engine is really Gonna give u an experience about how powerful and torque rich they are but unfortunately.
I have the twin turbo EJ208 on my JDM Subaru B4 RSK, never had any engine issue or turbos issue. Maintain your car, i change my oil every 5000 km and i wait awhile before using the 2 turbos. Also JDM cars have to be tuned for your local gas if you don't have 100 octane nearby.
had a stock 12 sti. changed oil every 2000 miles. drove it every day it didnt sit but i didnt have to drive far either. Warmed it up in the morning. Blew 2 motors in 6 months after owning the car for 2 years. Cyl 4 misfire. Cracked broke ringland first time. second time cracked piston. I sold car for a 19 camaro ss. Dont just tell people to maintain it. You have the twin turbo which wasnt even mentioned. EJ257 is such a bad motor there are 5 seperate class action law suit groups.
@@sariahreigns3666 Wow that is crazy but yeah sometimes it is lack of maintenance, i prefer the EJ20 or EJ22, the EJ25 has too many issues.
Ej20 definitely superior to 2.5 dont understand why you would clump then together
What is your model year? Pre 01's have the big end issues.
My friend's dad owned a 06' Subaru Impreza STI, he launched his car and the motor just blew up
cuz all those enginers are reliable... the owners are the idiots
Imagine suggesting the 22b has any short falls, outrageous
I own a FC and I can confirm the cost of repair is very high IF you wait till it goes boom. I pulled my 13b out at 60k on last rebuild because is noticed it was burning a touch of coolant. Could smell in the exhaust but no white cloud. Everything has be replaced or rebuilt except my rear cradle bushings. I know it's slow but they are so much fun. Shifting gears at 8k rpm in a 80s car is a blast. If you don't know how to do the work yourself then they are way to expensive for the average person. You have to WANT to keep these cars going. When they brake down you hate them and want to rid yourself of it. But when you finally getting it running again it like a drug addiction. You can't get enough.
Listen to yourself...60k engine rebuild.
Seriously?
This is considered good?
Id be fkn ropable if my car needed a rebuild at 60k.
115k miles on my RX8 and runs like a clock. I upgraded the coils & starter, Sohn adapter, premix and switched to 10w40. Now I just do oil changes every year and keep the 2t oil reservoir topped up. Also, 8k for a rebuild?! Don't know about US prices but that sounds way too expensive, in Europe a brand new Renesis from Mazda is under 5k.
Hadn't thought the 6G72 (incorrectly labelled in that picture, it is a 3.0 not a 3.8, the 3.8 being the 6G75) could be a bit of a pain to work on. What i have as my daily has that engine, a 1997 Magna, also known as the Diamante elsewhere. Has about 220,000 kms & still runs fine, never any issues & have taken good care of it in the 10 years i've owned it. Although this video has had some inaccuracies (like the Mitsubishi V6 being incorrectly labeled at the start) along with misinformation about the Nissan VG30, as people have pointed out as well.
6g72 without TT to it is a great engine, quite durable and reliable if not tuned
the 6g72TT tho is a huuuuuuuuuuuuge pain in the neck :D
@@Raikokz As the NA'd one (totally stock) in what i have & would be staying that way. Good to know that it might get issues if anything is done to it, and that the one in the GTO/3000GT & Dodge Stealth, can be a bit iffy like were mentioned here
@@huleeyaxerssius7 I drive a 1992 GTO twin turbo so I know 😅
@@Raikokz Ah alright, though what i have have is slower than what you have, guess it'd be a case of the tortoise & the hare even you could say. Slower, but more reliable, the other being quicker, but not as reliable. Would still be a fun one to drive would say, the GTO
The fact that he quoted every subaru owner spot on. Whenever I say they are junk it's always the same response. I've had mine forever and haven't had a single issue. That's weird when the subaru shop I worked at was busier than Volvo, BMW and Ford put together, and we only have a single bmw dealer in the state
I 100% stick with Toyota these days, but even then (besides my rock solid 94' Camry) both my other cars have some pretty huge and well known issues straight from the factory.
My 88' Supra came with wrongly torqued head studs from the factory as they all did which blows headgaskets, but luckily I bought it with that already fixed.
My new 01' Celica GT-S is notorious for breaking the two lift bolts that give it boost at 6.2K RPM and of course mine are broke. $1,200 fix just to extract the broken metal from the rocker.
My favorite is the 6g72 and it is a bit of a pain to work on
It’s a great motor if you just change oil before the intervals and keep an eye on things.
@@tylerf5083 agreed 👍💯! As long as I take care of the stealth I know it will 5ake care of me.
Remember guys the 6k he said for a rebuilt for the renesis is cap first, second the most common problem the renesis meet is the Coolant seals or oil control seals go bad that's why they are smoking and for that in parts you could maybe spend like 300usd + the work if a shop does it for you which depends from the shop, I asked a price once and from a garage that specializes on rotaries said if it just o rings it will cost around 1.2k
as and owner of an rx8 i cant believe the hate of the renesis is my daily and i have 0 problems also i rebuilt it 2 years ago when i it has 180k miles on it and it was running perfect i just want to bridgeported it and put everything new on it but it was perfect. as an rotary owner the only thing you need to know is that you need to premix with idemitsu or renewable lubricants also use idemitsu engine oil. the cooling system need to be in good condition the problem with the car is the ecu have alot of restrictions because of the emitions so you need to reflash the ecu and make the A/F ratio better and the fans will start earlier . if you gonna buy one first need to do compression test after that if everything is good then you start to do the real maintenance . also rev it to 10k to clean the carbon deposit always prem fuel & respect temperatures its like any other car just a little bit different. change the oil and filter every 3k miles
As a long time 3vze owner with over 220k original miles, I feel you. Another annoying setback people often fail to mention about these engines is that the head and block are made of different materials. This means coolant cannot contain the optimal corrosion resistant additives for either iron or aluminum, because each additive is corrosive towards one or the other. As a result, if water or non-red coolant is EVER added to the engine, it rusts the engine and turns the coolant into red chocolate milk. This reduces its effectiveness and increases wear on the water pump. It will be this way forever. I have to do a full coolant flush yearly or it sludges up inside the throttle body and the engine won't idle under 2K RPM. I'm on my 2nd water pump in 100K, all because the previous owner was a liar and a flipper. He left a leak when he sold it to me, just topping the system off with water when it got low. Everything you need to do on this engine also requires removing the annoying intake plenum with a rats nest of vacuum lines. Because these engines are so reviled, parts for it are sometimes rare and expensive like the power steering pump and gearbox, AC components, etc. But like you said, I am basically doing the bare minimum to keep it on the road hoping it will pop any day so I can get a taco engine and it will NOT quit. I've had it for over 4 years with this intent to swap it when it went, but it just keeps going!
The only Subaru that suffers from head gasket issues is the naturally aspirated 2.5 single over head cam. Beyond that not a single other car has head gasket problems. This was the only engine to have a coated single layer head gasket and the coating would wear away after time causing them to leak. Upgrading to the multilayered turbo gaskets fixes this issue.
Bought a brand new Loyale in 1991 as our first family car (with 4wd, air, manual and electric windows, big step up for a young teacher and family for $11,999 and the cool part-time 4 wd red button on top of the shift knob but don't go above 60 with it engaged!) and it had continuous problems with oil starvation in anything resembling an enthusiastic turn (especially left turns!). The dealer installed a new baffled oil pan which helped but never fully eliminated the fun clanking and occasional related smoke, ahhhhhh Subaru........
The 08+ ej25 pan is a better design which mostly fixes the issue. Some company (honey bee something?) took it a few steps further but the price is cringeworthy
Nice to see you guys blasting content again!
Alot of engines has inate design issues. Proper maintenance can alieve most of them. I.e. regular oil change. Or faulty components replaced.
My 2005 RX8 6 speed is still running great being 19 years old now. Regular maintenance at a Mazda service center and keeping everything stock and OEM is the key to reliability. Knowing how to properly treat and run an unconventional engine such as a rotary engine is also key for its reliability.
People need to stop thinking of the rotary as unreliable. Its more of a racing engine that was put in an economical car. All racing engines do what they do best and then get rebuilt. People dont complain about italian exotics when they have to be rebuilt or torn down they just do it and enjoy it for many more years to come. So in a sense its a Japanese exotic. If they treated it as such we would still be running them today but people are cheap so mazda doesnt care. Aside from emissions Mazda would move planets if it was profitable for them. Goes for any major company.
just got my rx8 motor rebuild for less than 5k, fortunately i didn't need any new housings/irons/rotors, but it still cost me a ton..
My classic subaru impreza ej20 still going strong with 240000km on the clock, oil and filter changed every 6 months
The major power problem behind the 3VZ engine is the fact that (in a pickup) the passenger side cylinders deal with double the exhaust pressure due to a cat'd crossover pipe that links both exhaust manifolds. Decat this pipe or go the header route & all is good. (Yes it does have a main cat under the cab)
Also not to mention the other engine option for north america out shined it in almost every way. The 22r/re did make less power but it drove so much better as it made all its torque down low. Ive owned a number of these pickups over the years and the 22re variants are by far the better option.
I always thought the NA subaru cooling system needed a expansion tank like the German makes. (expansion tank is different from the over flow tank. Turbo models have a expansion tank)
My Mazda 😢 but it’s still kicking ass after 11 years of daily driving from work to home
3000GT-
Lifter tick- replace the lifters. 1g or '99 DOHC. 1g is preferred (i want to keep my oil in the oil pan, not shoot it all into the cyl head)
Miles of vacuum lines?- Vac delete. you really buy some silicone vac caps and remove a bracket or two and fixes all of it in about 3 minutes
Timing belt?- Manual timing tensioner. Vice grips with rags to pad the timing belt so you dont gnaw it up. OR...take some folded up paper and stick it under the cam caps to help keep the cam gears stationary. I can set timing on my car in about 45 minutes start to finish.
What is stupid tho is the amount of bracketry involved when working on a 100% stock car. I think i removed about 22lbs of unnecessary iron, and it makes the car SO much easier to work on.
Funny... I own a Rx8 and it feels like the engine is literally the last thing that will let me down! My car has been hugely reliable over the past 3 years. But she's 17 years old, now, so some age related wear and tear issues are slowly appearing... The paint on the bonnet fades at a different rate than the paint on the bumper. The chassis is still clean for a UK car but will need to be treated for rust prevention this year or I will at some point have to fork out big money for welding works. The sump is still clean, but on those cars, they tend to rust... My oil line connectors have started corroding, so that will need to be changed in the next two years or so to avoid having to deal with leaks... The passenger airbag cover cracked last year and had to be swapped. I have to keep an eye on the clutch pedal and the rear springs (two weak spots on the car that can fail with time). The engine? Purrs like a kitten!
Early Renesis failed prematurely because Mazda's servicing schedule was not adapted to it: They tried to sell a rotary engine with the servicing schedule of a piston engine. That was never going to work! Early coils and starter motors were also weak. All that has been solved. Maintain your car well and that engine will serve you a long time... Oh, and treat that engine like a consumable: It will need a rebuild at some point. But it should be reliable all the way up until then!
More of a question for other commenters than a comment - can *anybody* recall what the sudden loss of oil pressure without any warning whatsoever was all about in the early KLZE Mazda V6's (1993-1995.5ish most common in the 626, MX-6 and *some* Probes yes got the JDM "Z" engine not a US spec "D")? It was just the early ones but I blew up at least 3 back in the day and can't for the life of me remember what Mazda changed to fix it around '94 whilst affected ones continued until stock dried up around middle '95 (you either got the good revision engine in '94 or the unmodified and there's no real way to know which one you got). That was my favorite Mazda v6 ever and 3 of at least 6 or 7 I've owned had the sudden oiling problem which grenades the engine spectacularly, always over 6,500rpm when the oil pressure decided to quit. Been so long now I can't remember what the issue was, but it was thoroughly asinine & inexcusable that much I can remember. Back in the 90's you could buy used Japanese engines straight from Japan cheaper than anything you could get from the junkyard no matter how old it was, THAT I miss dearly. There's still quite a few KLZE and KLDE out in the wild today
Watching this at 1,25x speed makes it actually watchable.
Why does this actually work 😂
Had a 2001 forester s headgaskets done 2 times and I just drove it regularly untill oil bolt just popped off..
I had a 2001 Subaru Forester S turbo here in Scotland aswell mine was mint burned 0 oil and the only reason i sold it was because rust got it the guy i sold it too spent 2-3 grand on it and its got a wrx subframe as mine literally the left half rotted away 4.5 kgs of sheet metal too read suspension turrets i saw it once drive past me couldn’t believe it 119,000 miles when i sold it full service history completely stock
@@andrewjohnson7960 mine was at 120k also when gone smh also turbo with full leather interior all the bells I have a e46 now great car
Back in the day my first car had a NA G54B in my bought new 1983 Plymouth Sapporo/Dodge Challenger, the Starion's/Conquest's predecessor. I made more than the stock turbo Starion's 150 hp with a ported head, mild 3/4 race cam, a set of 4 into 1 headers and pair of 44mm Mikuni side draft carburetors. Without the head gasket issues of turbo G54B's.
I personally owned a n RX-8 and previously and RX-7.
Main thing is people shouldt treat Rotary Engine like they do Piston Engines. If you redline it before the end of each drive before shutting it off your engine will last longer (Not reving it while turning the key to off...that is stupid).
Carbon build up is the main culprit for engine wear for Rotary.
I personally had my RX-7 at 168,000 miles and still running...hard to pass emissions but still runs 😅.
My RX-8 past 120,000 mile before getting on an accident, but again original engine. But everyone else who dont even have an RX-8 swear by it will blow up and die before 80,000 miles...well yeah if you treat it and drive it like a piston engine.
Rotary will last a long time if people just reset their minds how to maintain it and stop treating it like they do piston engines.
I have a 3000gt sitting in the garage which needs a new timing belt. It ran fine, I pulled it into the garage under it's own power and it ran well, but on inspection I discovered the timing belt was very very loose- it slides off the Cam Gears very easily and there's probably 2-3 inches of play where the belt slacks- shouldn't be more than an inch, while tinkering I slipped the belt off by accident and it snapped out of time (cams hold a bit of tension)- never tried turning it over since but I know it'll run great once I have the Money to fix it and change all the fluids/filters, and there's no Cam knock- it's a beautiful sounding Vehicle- only downside is light hail damage. So ya- you're right on that one, it is a PAIN IN THE ASS to replace the timing belt and it's kind of expensive- just the parts alone cost 500-600 bucks (belt, water pump, tensioner and required accessory parts), then if you have someone else do it it's about double that cost judging on a few quotes i've gotten. I do look forward to having it running again, People don't know what kind of Car it is these Days since they're so rare which I kind of like.
Rotary engines are unreliable because of owner fault 😂😂😂
The 6G75 v6 in 4th Gen Eclipse GT’s is a fantastic engine, mine was, ran incredible, never had a problem
LMAO LOOK at the face of the lady at the drag strip when those cars launch IM DYing lmao
9:58 (left corner)
i had to rebuild my qr25de so many times in my sentra SE-R specv, I was able to start at 9 and replace all 4 pistons and rods and have the motor back together by lunch.
Before the vid started i was like "You better not include the 13B ffs. Its reliable with good care and mods" first one it showed i just went flying across the room.
In fairness it was the renesis engine specifically
Most people don’t understand or fear rotaries but they are very reliable with some love and attention to detail. Especially keeping oil changed regularly, strong spark and keeping them cool. Yes they won’t do 300k on original seals but the trade off is definitely worth it for such a unique and characterful engine, which for a 1.3L no piston engine can compare power wise .
I love my renesis rotary rx8. It is Mazdas most powerful NA 13B which sounds amazing and loves to rev ! It’s not supercar fast but enough to beat some of the modern factory turbo boys .
As subbie guy i agree EJ25, EJ255, EJ257 arent good engines but when people saying all EJ are rubish is just plain stupid, maintain them and they will work. Porsche uses boxer engines as well but i dont see people saying Porsche burns gaskets and has bearing problems 😄 just pure subaru hating i think, Subaru boxer 6 engines are desinged by Porsche btw.
I think one of the issues is Subarus do not like being pushed without a rebuild. The EJ253 suffers the most gasket failures on stock tune from having worse gasket design, open deck, and lower torque specs.
On the other hand, head gasket issues seem to be overshadowed by oil starvation.
@@meercm i mean same desing, there is problems with 2.5l boxer engines i advice to everyone not to buy them, but what comes to smaller EJs they work just fine if you maintain them and dont abuse them, and Subarus six cylinder boxer IS desinged by Porsche. My parents have 3.0R Outback 2004 400tkm and works like a clock, my 1993 Subaru legacy 200 turbo 370tkm and works like a clock. Its how you keep your car in the end you can destroy any engine by giving F about maintain and driving like a maniac 😄
The 2.3 DISI in the Mazdaspeed 3 and Mazdaspeed 6. What an amazing torquey engine, plagued by Ford Connection Rods that would fail almost guaranteed.
European Subaru Diesel Engine's are notorious for broken cranks here, Count yourself lucky you didn't get that 💩
First engine I’ve ever pulled and worked on is a VG30DETT. After learning how to work and maintain that motor I can confidently say that any other motor should be a piece of cake 😂. VG are cool but an absolute PAIN!
Not defending Subaru or any thing but i have a 2004 blobeye it has 155000 km on it and it still has the original engine from the factory and never even been touched. But of course that brings us back to what you already mentioned that if it's taken care properly it won't brake down... (As most cars will)
I got a 2003 Outback with the H6 3.0L i have 245000km and still running strong but that sucker drink gas like it his water.
7m Toy/Yamaha enthusiasts here love it not worth the hate, blown heads is more of meme than actual fact. The truth to this scrutiny is back in the day Toyota had its torque specs wrong All you have to do is tighten down a little bit further and regular routine, maintenance and it will last forever. The only downside to the motor is that when building a high horse power variant of the 7m the parts are more expensive than its 1j or 2j counterparts. With that said respect the O.G.
Good vid. Thanks. For French engines, maybe change to 5 that ARE reliable - except I don't think you can find 5. lol
EJ20's from late 80's to 1995 had a closed deck sand cast block that did not blow head gaskets and would take big boost because they were made to compete in open class rallys . head gasket problems started in 1996 with the open deck die cast blocks that were used when rally engine power restrictors were brought in to rally if you want to build a high power suby find a closed deck block from a legacy or wrx prior to 1995 , wrx sti version 1/2 do very high mileage before failing , but as americans think that wrx imprezas started in 2000 + when the best EJ's are earlier .
We did get the Phase I 22T in the BC Legacy, but it was tuned pathetically conservatively (I think about 160hp) so nobody cared about it or took care of them.
My 91 liberty 2.2 shat both headgaskets at about 100,000kms. Its a long term issue. Not confined to turbos. Its a subaru thing. Their reputation for bulletproof engining is the single least deserved rep ive ever heard of.
I see dead subarus EVERYWHERE. All the time.
The 6g72 is extremely reliable. They made an insane number of those engines and put them in monteros and diamante as well as chrysler applications and the 3g eclipse. The 3000gt twin turbo models in the early years had issues with spinning rods, and over about 600 hp start having issues with flexing heads, but the majority of the reliability issues on that platform come from the electronics/other things external to the engine. A platform being unreliable is different than an engine being unreliable. Also the 3000gt got bought up by cheap owners who didn't properly maintain their cars which didn't help the reputation at all. They told you to change your timing belt every 60k miles for a reason.....
The qr25de relies on oil pressure to activate the chain tensioner. Giving that rattle in start up process. Mines been doing it for ages now I'd rather replace the whole engine rather than do the trimming chain repair.
The 6g72 also came in the montero and the mighty max as well
RX8 Owner here leading the pack.
shouldve added the first gen toyota 2gr-fe. The timing gear issue, the oil feed lines prone to breaking because theyre made out of rubber that can grenade your engine at any time AND the silly little vvti oil line filter that can get clogged up are all big issues.
I'm piping in here on my personal RX8 and my experience has been pure reliability since owning it 3 years now. Most issues around them are numpties who don't know rotaries or how to look after a renesis. Sorry but that's the truth. Rebuilds are expensive though and that sorts the poor buyers from the ones with money and skill
"poor buyers" when you buy the cheapest RWD manual jdm car left lmao
@@tylove1535 if your poor DON'T buy an RX8 or any rotary, they are not for brokies
You failed to mention with the QR25 is that they blow head gaskets all the time and also the CVT is a pile of junk and also had a grounding issue with the valve body which cant be repaired due to electeical resistance so a new valve body is needed. Another thing that makes the EJ25 a terrible engine is that it takes less time to replace the timing belt than the spark plugs since the engine has to be removed for spark plugs like why?
I love how it's the EJ25 that's shown, the one made in the US.
The Japanese EJ20 was and still is indestructible.
Every Starion Turbo I knew of back in the day ,spun a rod bearing before 100k miles. Including my own.
The top 5 worst Japanese automobile engines are all Mitsubishi.
the rotary engine makes maseratis and jaguars/land rovers look like camrys/corollas
S54 owner....
Are you saying EJ engines like to ingest bearings as well? As often or not?
I have a feeling a lot of cars eat bearings quite consistently. Most of them are snotboxes that people either scrap or throw a scrap yard engine in and have no idea why it died.
They definitely CAN and DO eat bearings. In our experience, S54 bottom ends are pretty tough when treated properly 👊
Change your oil every 3 to 4k. And don’t go past 4k rpm until it’s fully warm
We can all agree that if you're broke, don't stress your car to its limits! If you're in a situation that the car broke and you cannot fix it because you don't have the money, tools or skills, then it's all on you bro!
Bro keep the content coming!
My 91 300zx made it to 228k miles till it started acting like a v4 despite replacing all vacuum lines, coil packs, sparkplugs, idle sensor, MAF, TPS sensor, throttle body cleaning, fuel
Pressure regulator, pCv valve, fuel filter, and so many other parts i dont remember. It was a good run, but i never buy one again even though i got it for $1500
Mazda's rotary engine was subjected to years of engineering sabotage. There are only two real problems with this engine: 1. The spark plug holes, which should be spark plug slots the same width as the apex seal. 2. The domes in the rotors should have been offset. A shade tree mechanic named Ernie Brink figured this out. But the best engineers in Japan couldn't for some reason. Something is wrong with this picture.
When talking about the subaru ej. Why no mention about the diesel variant? Those engines really suck apparently.
The 4B11T is worse than the EJ25. Neither were great though. And the Mitsu unit will hold a little more power, however almost everything connected to the engine including the factory turbo was delicate to say the least.
The Renesis holds more oil than that, the rest is in the oil cooler and lines.