Hmmm. $18,000 / 36 months = $500 per month. Just goes to show, you'll never live for free. Life cost money. But if you think about it is pretty cheep living if you consider this covers your rent/mortgage, a car payment, gas, a vacation rig and an adventure all wrapped up in one. And ya gotta admit, the last three years have been an adventure. I remember talking to you when in Idaho and you said you were much happier than the previous years in LA. Live strong my friend
You got it, Snack! That doesn't include all the crazy upgrades, 2x cell plans, food, insurance, etc. Can't live for free even if you never pay for a camp site...
You inspired me to start a savings fund for my "transmission" well my Transmission refuses to fail (so far) If this keeps up , soon I'll have enough for a replacement vehicle. Make a car payment to savings every month even when your car is paid for. the next car will be paid for too.
Wow! I guess that sort of blows the idea of just buying a used van for a few grand, parking it near a scenic river someplace, filtering river water, wearing a hoodie, trapping muskrats for food, eating berries, not shaving for a couple of years, pooping in a bucket and living the simple life off just social security without having a half decent emergency fund to fall back on... Thanks for the realistic overview of unexpected/expected life on the road.
Dude, you have to consider you basically rebuilt that old Van that needed tons of work when you bought it! That chart should start new after getting your coach up to snuff. Safe travels Bro!
HOBOTECH - I beg to differ on these voodoo RV costs! More often than not, RVers consistently failed to factor in the real cost of RV Depreciation. Yes, even on a 25YO 'Classic RT' Class B you have RV Depreciation. In HoboTech's case it is estimated at $200/Mo ( $15000 - $9000 = $6000 Depreciation / 30 Months = ~$200/Mo Depreciation). $300 + $200 = $500/Mo RV cost exclusive of gas. In a Class H RH (as in Real House) one gets between 3% and 5% Yearly Appreciation. One can get a Real Class H 2BD/1BA 'solid house' for ~$25,000 if you know where to look (look for estate sales and foreclosures and not in Millennial places like California ) and how to negotiate (cash in hand people negotiate the best and get the best deals). But if you wanted a Government Backed FHA/USDA/ETC Mortgage you could put just 3% ($750) as a down-payment then finance the $24250 over 30 years with a P&I payment of ~$100/Mo at 2.86% Int. Factor in Home Yearly Appreciation of about $100/Mo and here is the result: $100 P&I - $100 Depreciation = $0 FREE FREE FREE! So compare HoboTech's '25 YO Class B Classic RT' at $500/Mo versus a '25YO Class H RH with much more room' at FREE FREE FREE $0/Mo. HOBOTECH 2 days ago replied and said: "Actually, these Roadtreks are holding value and in some cases increasing. Also,with all the other upgrades I have done I could get double what I paid. " That means $30,000 for a 25 year old Roadtrek :-{ George 2 days ago replied and said: "@HOBOTECH Interesting o p i n i o n. Are you saying you could get $30,000+ for this old RT? An ad on RV Trader, Craigslist, etc. could separate fact from fantasy. Then an astute buyer might ask how many miles left on that dodgy 25 YO engine????? Just insure the hell out of the RT ... have an accident (it rolls off a cliff because it jumped out of PARK) ... or shoot that Old RT with a 12 Gauge and get a Class H - House. As you get older and more achy and incontinent and poorer ... nothing beats a Class H ... a real house. "
Hello Tom, great video. I remember one time after a repair you said something like "Well it`s 95% good now". I thought "it isn`t 95% and never will be". Previously I owned a 1990 Dodge RoadTrek, currently, I own a 1992 Dodge Coachman. You never know what will happen next, but you know something will!
I've heard a few reputable mechanics who recommend not changing the trans fluid in high-mileage domestic vans and trucks like Tom's. Or, if you are going to change the fluid, just do a partial change. Paradoxically, the theory is that it's actually the gunk and viscosity of the old fluid that's keeping those gears engaging with each other and when the new thinner, slicker fluid is introduced the gears fail to engage like they have previously resulting in them tearing each other apart. The TH-camr Scotty Kilmer has a few videos about this and I believe my transmission failure was due to a fluid change.
Tom, Like you, I do not want to work on my own vehicles, I don't even change the oil. Except for my Honda Goldwing, I do all of the work on that (It never needs work, only maintenance). I own a 2016 Dodge Ram Big Horn and a 24' travel trailer and a Nissan Murano. I do minor repairs like putting in new headlights (Not the bulb, the entire assembly), etc. When it comes to major things like struts, brakes, motor mounts, etc. my vehicles go to the shop. My travel trailer needs minor things repaired now and then and I do those, but if anything major needs to be done, it goes to the shop. I used to enjoy doing these things, but now being in my 60's, it is worth it for me to pay some while I enjoy a cold beer. Besides that, all of these new cars have too many electronics and new parts that I know nothing about.
Those transmissions weren't real strong to begin with, but if it's got a lot of wear material in the fluid that actually becomes an integral part of the transmission working properly, putting fresh fluid in means you no longer have worn clutch material in the fluid creating the necessary friction and it'll start to slip more and more until it burns itself up. It seems counter-intuitive that maintenance could create problems but if it was neglected up to that point it's actually better to just run it until it fails than to try to maintain it.
I own a 97' Roadtrek Popular with just under 130,000 miles with the 318 (5.2) . Bought ours in 2014 . It has had a few issues , but our experience has been a little nicer than yours . Ours did not hold a line going down the road , but had learned on our class C that a sagging rear is often the problem . I added rear air bags . Ours came with a heavy hitch . I did replace our fridge two years ago , bought it out of Texas on sale for $700 with free shipping . At that time I added two auxiliary fans to assist the heat exchanger on the fridge . I also had to buy a new Engine control module for around $200 . We love ours , the ride and handling are so nice . Milage varies some depending how hard I am driving and if pulling trailer or Geo Tracker . Lowest ever was 14 MPG and a high was 16.4 . Found your channel just now . Am thinking of adding flexible solar panels and a lithium/iron battery . I have the 2.8 generator out and need to try and figure out the problem . Bought all new controllers and it still will not stay running , may be windings . People tend to damage them by starting with a heavy load or shutting them off with a load . On a side note , I would sure hazard a guess about the transmission fluid change may have killed your transmission .
I'm not a master mechanic by an means, but I noticed many years ago the same thing you noticed about replacing transmission fluid....I know at least half a dozen people who swore they never had any transmission problems until AFTER they had it flushed somewhere. Then all of sudden, noises, shifting problems, clunks, etc. I think the rule of thumb with respect to transmissions, especially if you have some miles on your vehicle - don't flush it unless you're trying a last resort type of thing before replacing it.
Tom thanks for sharing, $18000 for three years, not bad compared to your rent in LA for three years, your ability to get up & move around the USA, priceless !!!
So roughly $500.00/Month over three years. Still WAY cheaper than the Payment's + Fuel on a new rig! EDIT: I would actually consider adding to the spreadsheet the cost of staying at the hotels during your breakdowns. This is because you did not have another place to live at because they're working on the van. If Heidi wasn't there to help you, those additional expenses should be factored in. For example when I blew the radiator in my big rig. I had the initial tow cost to the shop, the shop repair bill, and the five day hotel bill. So anybody's emergency fund should include having to stay at a hotel. Make sure you have a means to get a significant discount at a hotel if possible! My Sam's Club membership card is good for discounts at some hotels and I believe Costco has the same deal set up. So if you have one of those clubs membership cards double check their discounts because you might be able to save some money while you're stranded! 😉
I have a 1994 GMC Vandora van and I find it easier to work on that a newer vehicles I’ve had parts don’t seem to be an issue. Too much technology and computers and sensors and newer vehicles you do have toThe technician anymore. Good videos keep up the good work.
You have driven a fair amount off road. Which cost you on alignments, tires, shocks and possibly the basket repair? Dirt roads are much harder on a heavy vehicle! That's a important part of this equation!
Very much enjoy your videos I want to get a vehicle and start them nomad life I’m sick of being stuck at home paying bills all the time with little to no money after I pay for my living expenses
which exact rear spacers you use? and what tires did you use. mine is 1995 too and I have a 225/75/16 tire, do you think I can go up a size to 245/75/16 on the same wheel for improved stability? thanks!
If they did a "tranny flush" where they just back flush the fluids and blow out all the small metal fines out of the small orifices and leave the old filter intact, then that was your problem. Best to drop the pan, change out filter and rig the hose that feeds into the cooler to pump out most the old fluid. I am felling pretty good about my 98 suburban I got in 2017 with 104K miles for $2K after hearing your story. It was pretty beaten up, but full tune, all fluids, new water pump, thermostat, brakes which I could do myself for price of parts. Then had mechanics rebuild and beef up rear springs, new shocks, and ultimately a rebuild on tranny when it failed. The Burb has set me back around $8k total cost for vehicle and all the parts and labor. 25K miles later of towing utility trailer, 20 ft ski boat and 17 ft travel trailer I figure is not too bad as a new one is $70K and up. Still has BFG AT tires that were on it when I bought it and is running great, fingers crossed. I do not like new cars much at all, but I did buy a used 2008 prius for cheap and replaced the big battery with new toyota battery for $1600 and still have a 96 subaru wagon which runs too good with the old 2.2 motor to ever sell. Frickin vehicles!
Yeah...a needed dose of reality...but not quite the uplifting information I was hoping for :) . I have two 1989 Dodge camper vans that I haven't used much in the last while. People often buy these things after seeing a few TH-cam videos and falling in love with the 'idea: of a vintage camper van when they see one on the street. Also they see that a new camper van is $120,000. I love sitting and sleeping in mine but I sure didn't like it a few years ago when the Leisure Travel van was on the hoist and the mechanic phoned and said they broke a sparkplug and put 3 hours trying to get it out and wanted my okay in the event that they'd have to send it to a head shop to grind it out. The mechanic did get the sparkplug out and happily told me that they "only" charged me for 3 hours plus the rest of the things that they fixed adding up to $1,800. Maybe its time to cut bait...or sell one or buy that Porsche you mentioned instead:)
Now I built into a 2-ton Astro van with an I tow because I took out it's engine and transmission that I had to take it over to my mechanic to get it dropped I live on an H away
I hear a lot of people ,full timers saying you need a $5,000 emergency fund if you are hitting the road .looks like they are probably right . One point you did not mention that helps in your trying to justify going to a shop . Is you live in the van so you are needing thinks fixed quickly and properly that is very important .Thanks for your honesty as always .
I got a class A only paid $4,000 for it and I've only had a bad water pump and change the radiator and the front brake pads and I've had this for a now five years on the road
Can I I looked at a lot of them before I bought this one now I have two of them now I got a Southwind and a got to Rockwood paid 4000 for the south wind too some broken water pipes and the messed up caliper in the front that's it
But you can't put a price on your overall happiness and the adventure' you have made along with the friendships and things you have seen along this journey , priceless I appreciate you Tom , keep on trucking , is that a custom window covering behind you ?? Not to mention you can't live in a Porsche lol
A little late to the party but...Does that mean you start to buy and hoard Roadtrek driveline components (and other parts), so you have a backup or two of each part? Or are you good for a while? Love the vids!
Came upon you for NEXPO power review but brother you're in a Dodge van too? INSTANT SUBSCRIBE! #RamVanLife Wondering what/who do you use for plugs and cap?
This would happen with any RV that is more than say 10 years old. I have found it is better to buy one that has been driven regularly and changed ownership a couple times. The new owners usually pump some cash into them and deal with stuff the previous owner ignored.
Ever considered installing air jacks under your van? Several reasons to do this. You have the compressor. When you're parked up for a long period you can jack your van up, put stands underneath it. Unloads your suspension saving wear on the bearings. Allows access for service. Levels your van helping the appliances function better. There are a number of other reasons but it mostly makes it easier to change tires in an emergency. Old vans are not a good choice in any case. Rather have a newer Class C with an aluminum frame. Same money spent in the long run.
If I was in your situation I would be using new or reman parts, this is your home you wouldn't put used (possibly rotten) lumber in your home so why use parts that may not be any better than what you have? To be blunt you can save money but you're the one driving and living in this van and you can't put a price on peace of mind. Take care Tom
Owned 2003 leisure wide body dodge so know all about maintaining lol. Ball joints dodge famous for. Cooper tires yeah nice had them. Your van is rebuilt many miles more...
Dang, I love a van guy! If you were thirty years older and I wasn't already married... haha My '94 Ford Coachmen van has probably cost more to maintain than I expected, but it is the perfect transportation! It is 17' feet and self-contained (but the shorty has no propane, so I dodged that bullet). When it goes to the shop, there is usually someone that sees it and wishes it was theirs. I got a little cargo trailer and now I can haul my toys around, too.
$18,000 for 2 years seems like a lot, and some people may be put off at that much cost...BUT if you'd have rented an apartment or house for 2 years, you could expect to have paid $20-30,000 in rent or house payments, PLUS utilities AND car expenses. If you had rented a motel and driven your car across the country your cost could have even more. Perspective... makes those costs look much better.
My roadtrek exactly same and model you mentioned in your maintenance services you replace the fuel pump the mechanic cut a hole 🕳 in the floor would mind show me the exact location so I can do. I did that before on old dodge van I just want to get ahead just in case roadtrek fuel pump will fail I have 165k plus. Appreciated thanks
I got this roadtrek 9 years ago no record of maintenance from the former owner so far runs great no indication of weak transmission I did my normal tuneup. Thanks for your videos on solar panels I exactly follow your videos my solar setups been on for almost a year now. 2- 100 watts panel 2- 125 ah AGM + house AGM, 1500 watts inverter for microwave and coffee brewer and insta pot pressure cooker and so on Thanks for all the video 👍
Great video Tom looks like you went through a lot of expenses there with your Dodge I've been lucky I think of not having such major expenses such as a transmission.
@@HOBOTECH He gives out common sense. Especially on e begging. Too many people on the internet taking advantage of others by not working. Abusing kind hearted people. IMO.
Wow thanks for the honest realistic review. I own a similar 98 class b pleasureway also on a dodge chassis. It however only has 72K miles on it. Bought it with 55K miles. I religiously change the transmission fluid and engine oil with pure synthetic as often as I can to reduce the risk of major damage. The water pump just recently went out as its leaking antifreeze like yours was. I threw a stop leak to temporarily give me time. its a bitch to repair as the area to work is so tight and compact. I'll probably have someone else do it. So far I've been lucky with few repairs. By the way I never did put spacers on the rear wheels but noticed the difference in width. I read somewhere spacers put too much stress and strain on the rear axle
Interesting that you said "I was wondering to this day if it was the transmission fluid change that blew up my transmission...". When I take my van RV to get an oil change, they always recommend that I change the transmission fluid. But I talked to the Dealership repair section and they say DO NOT DO IT. My fluid is supposed to be good for 150,000 miles before the first recommended change. I had heard that you can cause problems with unnecessary transmission and rear axle fluid changes. But this info is mostly hearsay on my part from a third party, so who knows.
Scotty Kilmer said if it is really old that the dirty fluid might keep it from slipping. Changing the fluid allows it to slip which then overheats the clutch plates and the transmission fails.
If it hasn't been serviced its likely on its way to failure anyway. Shops need a reason not to do the work and avoid that liability. Changing the fluid will clean out/loosen deposits and cause them to flow thru the system further exacerbating an already failing trans. So, the fluid change isnt the primary cause, just coincidental. Rather than a simple fluid change, a regular pm trans flush would likely give better results. A change leaves many quarts of dirty fluid to contaminate the new. You'd have to explain to me how contaminated fluid (with dirt & metal) that no longer has effective additives somehow causes less friction than new fluid? (other than resuspending deposits).
Well it wasn't looking great and I had put almost 20k on it myself. I learned after talking to BBT that I should never need to change the fluid as it's synthetic and should last the life of the van.
Great reporting, and when you consider the cost of a new class B, still pretty cheap! If you were to do it over again, would you still buy a 25 year old coach and fix it as you have, or would you have spent a few thousand more to buy a 10 years newer model with less miles? I realize that time and opportunity drive these decisions, but in an ideal world, for someone planning to go full-time, would it make sense to invest up front to avoid potential major mechanical problems? I am just thinking that 144k is a lot of miles, and now at 168k, your next big expense might be the engine. I would expect any well-cared for gas engine to last 200k, but beound that, who knows. If the worst happens, do you spend the 5-6k to rebuild? With new trans and new differential already, hard not to keep going - still cheaper than buying a new one.
Very informative video. Very good record keeping. All boils down to ain't no free lunch. Folks with very little money need to think twice about jumping on that bandwagon.
"I don't want to get under my vehicle with a bad back and knees doing this kind of auto-mechanic stuff anymore." I don't, either, and with those same physical issues. And I can tell you, it don't get any BETTER as you get EVEN OLDER! Compared to me, in your 40s you're still a youngster! ;-) I can't remember when (not even the year, let alone how old I was then) I decided that. Also, not being dirt-poor anymore helped with "let someone else do it." And, I'm at least 2 decades ahead of you age-wise. I still have the skills AND tools, but unless I HAVE to do something -- like being broken-down somewhere in the middle of nowhere, near some scary-looking cornfield and it's gettign dark, OR while off-roading in the sticks -- I don't. Not even oil changes: I take my Honda to a dealer (but bring my own filter, oil and OEM crush-washer -- just pay labor) and have them rotate the tires at the same time. I still do my own air-filter, cabin-filter, wiper blades, and windshield-washer fluid...but even a Geico Cave Man could do that easy stuff. At least a dealer doesn't stick me with outrageous bills for doing THOSE things! One reason I take it in for regular maintenance (when the vehicle tells me to via Honda's "Maintenance Minder" system) is for documentation: I keep all the receipts for all work done on my vehicle since Day One. As for the air & cabin filter, I put that "done by owner" in a running text document (don't know how to make/use spreadsheets) in my "Honda" folder on my PC that I can print out if need be...the hard-copy receipts I get from the dealer go into a box for safe-keeping. I think if the dealer charged REALLY outrageous $$ for oil-changes/tires-rotations, etc., I'd POSSIBLY do them myself...but again, it's a bit hard on me physically (but not impossible). I'm not sure if it's the physical "discomfort" (aka: pain) doing it now (at my age) or the mental part, but I definitely CAN say that I'm not that "enthusiastic" about being an auto-mechanic-helper anymore (and pretty much HAD to back then: Couldn't afford the "professionals" on a regular basis). But I can still "supervise" the job due to having done all sorts of car work (since I was 16). And, at least I can "talk shop" so the Service Advisors have a much harder time trying to BS me! ;-) Happy Parking (due to the current "virus-crisis" restricting travel), -- BR
Hobo you nailed it good on this one. Us old truckers really understand the cost of moving down the road that’s a fact.. those that don’t won’t last in the business as with TH-cam. Great job and spread sheet. Loved those drone shots on the outro...of your side be side. Keep um coming. Be safe and healthy💥🎩
Thank you! I will just keep working and get me a newer Rv. Wow, you did not put any real hard miles on it. That is an older truck; those parts are cheap. The more modern vehicle brakes don't get as much mileage. They cost double that price. You lucky if you get 9000 miles on brakes. Larger RV needs more brake work. Cheap parts replacing will cost more in the long haul; they rust out faster. This is why people get rid of them at 24,000 miles. Factory parts are better; they hold up longer.
Hey Tom. Great video, let's a guy know what expenses you might encounter on the road with an older RV. Everything you did was perfectly legit! Keep up the good work and great videos!
what works for me when i buy old car is have every thing replaced new parts .battery. waterpump belts altnator tranmission be like having new car for half the price with no problems on road
Awesome insight Tom thanks for sharing. I have a class B B3500 as well 1998 and agreed with everything you said. I've owned it now for 2 years and put about 5k in upgrades and maintenance. Safe travels. Tell Oden hello.
Hey, JG - I have a 1998 Dodge 190 Popular and the handling is HORRIBLE. I can't drive it over 45-50 mph without feeling like I'm about to roll over or blow off the road. Several people told me to get the Dodge Steering Stabilizer installed so I did. Didn't help AT ALL. Others told me to get the Red Head Steering box. I haven't done that yet because it's very expensive in the end, and another mechanic told me that won't cure the problem. He told me to instead have the strut rod bushings replaced and then get an alignment with very specific parameters which he shared with me. (He doesn't live near me so can't do the work.) Many other Roadtrek owners I know added the spacers which SEEMS to make sense, but Dodge Roadtrek owners have told me that the spacers made no difference at all and could cause problems, so I haven't dared to do those. Do you have any insights for a fellow '98 Dodge Roadtrek owner? I can't afford to do the amount of work @hobotech did, but mechanics keep telling me the van is in awesome shape for its age and has been very well cared for. I have almost all maintenance records and that does appear to be the case. THANK YOU for any thoughts you might have to share on any of this.
The demographic of RV users would dictate that most work would be done the way you had it done. I think your representation is a fair and realistic estimate. I will also add this caveat for anyone age 65 or older whether they are settlers or nomads: Prepare and allow for a $300 incidental (surprise) expense every month. You may well skip a month or two but the average will be very close to that (new glasses, Grandchildren graduations and birthdays, appliance failures, accidental damage, copays, prescriptions, etc.) My favorite euphemism has always been: “Every present has a price”. That includes retirement. Lol!
Not really that bad because it is your home. Maybe do an overall and include camping fees. That would be a good comparison. If you bought a new camper you would have paid that much more for it and then hit with depreciation. You will not take a depreciation hit since you have made it better than it was. In fact it is likely worth more than when you purchased it.
If that transmission fluid change was done with a power flush then it very well could have caused the failure, especially if the existing fluid was very old. Very unlikely to have been caused by a gravity fluid drop and new filter install
HOBOTECH It’s bad if you move the fluid with an external pump. It can easily dislodge crude buildup and cause serious problems. You can get away with it if done often enough to keep the internals clean but if done on a unit with very old fluid and crusty surfaces that the pumping action can dislodge it will cause damage
I guessed 16.5k my 30 year old Dodge B250 has averaged 3-350 in maintenance monthly repair expenses for my 4 years of ownership, it also might need another transmission rebuild, it's taken me to many great places
Still cheaper than my mortgage but yeah, having a garage and air tools helps a lot to keep the repair costs down plus you don't have to worry about wondering if the mechanic did it right or not. You mentioned homesteading, are you gonna build a workshop on there eventually once you find the land?
Dude! You're awesome. Great info. Thank you, and I love your approach and rationale for why you do what you do the way you do. Well thought out and well put. I'm so not going to get out there in an old class b now, even though it'd be cool. You saved me
i never do my own work on my rides, i can do the very basic, all that other work i dont know how nor do i want to do it,,, i under guessed the total- 10,001-- 11,000 is what i guessed,, be safe, be strong, be free, be blessed
That’s not bumper to bumper coverage. You still have to add in routine repairs, wear items and maintenance to say nothing about fuel. The payment on a $70K vehicle financed in a reasonable term length would be over $500 a month. If you were to buy one built out as an RV it would cost $125K minimum. Now you’re talking a $1800 a month payment
$125K minimum? Thats a $55K makeover. What are you planning Saddam's 24K gold composting toilet? We must shop at different stores. Shouldn't cost more than $20K for Solar, bed, plumbing, cabinets etc, and doing the work yourself. Seriously , you have a good point. It would be way more expensive than just the sprinter.
I love the imitation of the trolls.....$6,000 a year $500 a month. I think I would expect about that. When I finally take off I was going to budget $400 for fuel and $400 for stays (shooting for free areas but....) a month. I don’t anticipate using the full $800 every month, but that’s what I plan to budget. Good info....thanks
I wanted a Chevy 210 but they are near impossible to find in decent shape. I have covered in several recent videos the best bang for the buck generators (hint Bluetti 2400).
Hmmm. $18,000 / 36 months = $500 per month. Just goes to show, you'll never live for free. Life cost money. But if you think about it is pretty cheep living if you consider this covers your rent/mortgage, a car payment, gas, a vacation rig and an adventure all wrapped up in one. And ya gotta admit, the last three years have been an adventure. I remember talking to you when in Idaho and you said you were much happier than the previous years in LA. Live strong my friend
You got it, Snack! That doesn't include all the crazy upgrades, 2x cell plans, food, insurance, etc. Can't live for free even if you never pay for a camp site...
You inspired me to start a savings fund for my "transmission" well my Transmission refuses to fail (so far) If this keeps up , soon I'll have enough for a replacement vehicle. Make a car payment to savings every month even when your car is paid for. the next car will be paid for too.
Wow! I guess that sort of blows the idea of just buying a used van for a few grand, parking it near a scenic river someplace, filtering river water, wearing a hoodie, trapping muskrats for food, eating berries, not shaving for a couple of years, pooping in a bucket and living the simple life off just social security without having a half decent emergency fund to fall back on... Thanks for the realistic overview of unexpected/expected life on the road.
Buy unrestricted land were you can park permanently. It's moving around a lot that cost money.
A hilarious view of van life. Thanks
Dude, you have to consider you basically rebuilt that old Van that needed tons of work when you bought it! That chart should start new after getting your coach up to snuff. Safe travels Bro!
HOBOTECH - I beg to differ on these voodoo RV costs! More often than not, RVers consistently failed to factor in the real cost of RV Depreciation. Yes, even on a 25YO 'Classic RT' Class B you have RV Depreciation. In HoboTech's case it is estimated at $200/Mo ( $15000 - $9000 = $6000 Depreciation / 30 Months = ~$200/Mo Depreciation). $300 + $200 = $500/Mo RV cost exclusive of gas.
In a Class H RH (as in Real House) one gets between 3% and 5% Yearly Appreciation. One can get a Real Class H 2BD/1BA 'solid house' for ~$25,000 if you know where to look (look for estate sales and foreclosures and not in Millennial places like California ) and how to negotiate (cash in hand people negotiate the best and get the best deals). But if you wanted a Government Backed FHA/USDA/ETC Mortgage you could put just 3% ($750) as a down-payment then finance the $24250 over 30 years with a P&I payment of ~$100/Mo at 2.86% Int. Factor in Home Yearly Appreciation of about $100/Mo and here is the result: $100 P&I - $100 Depreciation = $0 FREE FREE FREE!
So compare HoboTech's '25 YO Class B Classic RT' at $500/Mo versus a '25YO Class H RH with much more room' at FREE FREE FREE $0/Mo.
HOBOTECH
2 days ago
replied and said:
"Actually, these Roadtreks are holding value and in some cases increasing. Also,with all the other upgrades I have done I could get double what I paid.
" That means $30,000 for a 25 year old Roadtrek :-{
George
2 days ago replied and said:
"@HOBOTECH Interesting o p i n i o n.
Are you saying you could get $30,000+ for this old RT?
An ad on RV Trader, Craigslist, etc. could separate fact from fantasy.
Then an astute buyer might ask how many miles left on that dodgy 25 YO engine?????
Just insure the hell out of the RT ... have an accident (it rolls off a cliff because it jumped out of PARK) ... or shoot that Old RT with a 12 Gauge and get a Class H - House. As you get older and more achy and incontinent and poorer ... nothing beats a Class H ... a real house.
"
George Jones The point is to travel full time.
Hello Tom, great video. I remember one time after a repair you said something like "Well it`s 95% good now". I thought "it isn`t 95% and never will be". Previously I owned a 1990 Dodge RoadTrek, currently, I own a 1992 Dodge Coachman. You never know what will happen next, but you know something will!
Buying a high mileage Dodge RV on craigslist was asking for trouble.
Helped you probably saved my ass before I hit the road 😂thanks Hobotech
Your transmission blew because its a 1990s Dodge trans with over 100k miles.
I've heard a few reputable mechanics who recommend not changing the trans fluid in high-mileage domestic vans and trucks like Tom's. Or, if you are going to change the fluid, just do a partial change. Paradoxically, the theory is that it's actually the gunk and viscosity of the old fluid that's keeping those gears engaging with each other and when the new thinner, slicker fluid is introduced the gears fail to engage like they have previously resulting in them tearing each other apart. The TH-camr Scotty Kilmer has a few videos about this and I believe my transmission failure was due to a fluid change.
Tom, Like you, I do not want to work on my own vehicles, I don't even change the oil. Except for my Honda Goldwing, I do all of the work on that (It never needs work, only maintenance). I own a 2016 Dodge Ram Big Horn and a 24' travel trailer and a Nissan Murano. I do minor repairs like putting in new headlights (Not the bulb, the entire assembly), etc. When it comes to major things like struts, brakes, motor mounts, etc. my vehicles go to the shop. My travel trailer needs minor things repaired now and then and I do those, but if anything major needs to be done, it goes to the shop.
I used to enjoy doing these things, but now being in my 60's, it is worth it for me to pay some while I enjoy a cold beer. Besides that, all of these new cars have too many electronics and new parts that I know nothing about.
Thorough as always. Beats home ownership costs. Downside is this IS your home (when you have breakdowns)
$18,000 for 3 years of fuel & maintenance..... $6,000/yr for your rent & utilities... that is what is important
Nailed it.
that doesnt cover the initial cost of the vehicle though.
Those transmissions weren't real strong to begin with, but if it's got a lot of wear material in the fluid that actually becomes an integral part of the transmission working properly, putting fresh fluid in means you no longer have worn clutch material in the fluid creating the necessary friction and it'll start to slip more and more until it burns itself up. It seems counter-intuitive that maintenance could create problems but if it was neglected up to that point it's actually better to just run it until it fails than to try to maintain it.
I've got an AWD Ford Escape Hybrid. It runs me $0.12 a mile over 5 years. Including everything all the way down to car washes.
I own a 97' Roadtrek Popular with just under 130,000 miles with the 318 (5.2) . Bought ours in 2014 . It has had a few issues , but our experience has been a little nicer than yours . Ours did not hold a line going down the road , but had learned on our class C that a sagging rear is often the problem . I added rear air bags . Ours came with a heavy hitch . I did replace our fridge two years ago , bought it out of Texas on sale for $700 with free shipping . At that time I added two auxiliary fans to assist the heat exchanger on the fridge .
I also had to buy a new Engine control module for around $200 . We love ours , the ride and handling are so nice . Milage varies some depending how hard I am driving and if pulling trailer or Geo Tracker . Lowest ever was 14 MPG and a high was 16.4 . Found your channel just now . Am thinking of adding flexible solar panels and a lithium/iron battery . I have the 2.8 generator out and need to try and figure out the problem . Bought all new controllers and it still will not stay running , may be windings . People tend to damage them by starting with a heavy load or shutting them off with a load .
On a side note , I would sure hazard a guess about the transmission fluid change may have killed your transmission .
I'm not a master mechanic by an means, but I noticed many years ago the same thing you noticed about replacing transmission fluid....I know at least half a dozen people who swore they never had any transmission problems until AFTER they had it flushed somewhere. Then all of sudden, noises, shifting problems, clunks, etc. I think the rule of thumb with respect to transmissions, especially if you have some miles on your vehicle - don't flush it unless you're trying a last resort type of thing before replacing it.
@@EfficientRVer My 300,000 mile Olds transmission has leaked for 200,000 miles. Still good.
Tom thanks for sharing, $18000 for three years, not bad compared to your rent in LA for three years, your ability to get up & move around the USA, priceless !!!
So roughly $500.00/Month over three years. Still WAY cheaper than the Payment's + Fuel on a new rig!
EDIT: I would actually consider adding to the spreadsheet the cost of staying at the hotels during your breakdowns.
This is because you did not have another place to live at because they're working on the van.
If Heidi wasn't there to help you, those additional expenses should be factored in.
For example when I blew the radiator in my big rig. I had the initial tow cost to the shop, the shop repair bill, and the five day hotel bill.
So anybody's emergency fund should include having to stay at a hotel. Make sure you have a means to get a significant discount at a hotel if possible!
My Sam's Club membership card is good for discounts at some hotels and I believe Costco has the same deal set up.
So if you have one of those clubs membership cards double check their discounts because you might be able to save some money while you're stranded! 😉
BBT covered my hotel costs. All other repairs I either stayed in the van or with a friend.
Very Nice & Detailed Analysis - mvc
I have a 1994 GMC Vandora van and I find it easier to work on that a newer vehicles I’ve had parts don’t seem to be an issue. Too much technology and computers and sensors and newer vehicles you do have toThe technician anymore. Good videos keep up the good work.
You have driven a fair amount off road. Which cost you on alignments, tires, shocks and possibly the basket repair? Dirt roads are much harder on a heavy vehicle! That's a important part of this equation!
Wonder how a schoolie does on rough terrain. Never heard anybody talk about that. But you'd think they're durable.
Very much enjoy your videos I want to get a vehicle and start them nomad life I’m sick of being stuck at home paying bills all the time with little to no money after I pay for my living expenses
which exact rear spacers you use? and what tires did you use. mine is 1995 too and I have a 225/75/16 tire, do you think I can go up a size to 245/75/16 on the same wheel for improved stability? thanks!
If they did a "tranny flush" where they just back flush the fluids and blow out all the small metal fines out of the small orifices and leave the old filter intact, then that was your problem. Best to drop the pan, change out filter and rig the hose that feeds into the cooler to pump out most the old fluid. I am felling pretty good about my 98 suburban I got in 2017 with 104K miles for $2K after hearing your story. It was pretty beaten up, but full tune, all fluids, new water pump, thermostat, brakes which I could do myself for price of parts. Then had mechanics rebuild and beef up rear springs, new shocks, and ultimately a rebuild on tranny when it failed. The Burb has set me back around $8k total cost for vehicle and all the parts and labor. 25K miles later of towing utility trailer, 20 ft ski boat and 17 ft travel trailer I figure is not too bad as a new one is $70K and up. Still has BFG AT tires that were on it when I bought it and is running great, fingers crossed. I do not like new cars much at all, but I did buy a used 2008 prius for cheap and replaced the big battery with new toyota battery for $1600 and still have a 96 subaru wagon which runs too good with the old 2.2 motor to ever sell. Frickin vehicles!
Yeah...a needed dose of reality...but not quite the uplifting information I was hoping for :) . I have two 1989 Dodge camper vans that I haven't used much in the last while. People often buy these things after seeing a few TH-cam videos and falling in love with the 'idea: of a vintage camper van when they see one on the street. Also they see that a new camper van is $120,000. I love sitting and sleeping in mine but I sure didn't like it a few years ago when the Leisure Travel van was on the hoist and the mechanic phoned and said they broke a sparkplug and put 3 hours trying to get it out and wanted my okay in the event that they'd have to send it to a head shop to grind it out. The mechanic did get the sparkplug out and happily told me that they "only" charged me for 3 hours plus the rest of the things that they fixed adding up to $1,800. Maybe its time to cut bait...or sell one or buy that Porsche you mentioned instead:)
Now I built into a 2-ton Astro van with an I tow because I took out it's engine and transmission that I had to take it over to my mechanic to get it dropped I live on an H away
Have you ever watched Scotty Kilmer's TH-cam channel on auto repair? Lots of good information to be had there.
I hear a lot of people ,full timers saying you need a $5,000 emergency fund if you are hitting the road .looks like they are probably right . One point you did not mention that helps in your trying to justify going to a shop . Is you live in the van so you are needing thinks fixed quickly and properly that is very important .Thanks for your honesty as always .
I got a class A only paid $4,000 for it and I've only had a bad water pump and change the radiator and the front brake pads and I've had this for a now five years on the road
Can I I looked at a lot of them before I bought this one now I have two of them now I got a Southwind and a got to Rockwood paid 4000 for the south wind too some broken water pipes and the messed up caliper in the front that's it
A proud dodge owner 😅
Barf
But you can't put a price on your overall happiness and the adventure' you have made along with the friendships and things you have seen along this journey , priceless I appreciate you Tom , keep on trucking , is that a custom window covering behind you ?? Not to mention you can't live in a Porsche lol
Yes, Heidi made curtains for me.
A little late to the party but...Does that mean you start to buy and hoard Roadtrek driveline components (and other parts), so you have a backup or two of each part? Or are you good for a while? Love the vids!
That was cool, did you factor in hotel costs when you didn't have your vehicle?
Came upon you for NEXPO power review but brother you're in a Dodge van too? INSTANT SUBSCRIBE! #RamVanLife
Wondering what/who do you use for plugs and cap?
I have videos covering my tune ups.
No bad , only 2 bit coins
Those trans/rear end repairs really hurt. Some sobering numbers for sure!
What?!? You paid that for gas?!? Lol just kidding
Great realistic summary
This would happen with any RV that is more than say 10 years old. I have found it is better to buy one that has been driven regularly and changed ownership a couple times. The new owners usually pump some cash into them and deal with stuff the previous owner ignored.
Holy crap that is what i paid for the rig ouch scary
Ever considered installing air jacks under your van? Several reasons to do this. You have the compressor. When you're parked up for a long period you can jack your van up, put stands underneath it. Unloads your suspension saving wear on the bearings. Allows access for service. Levels your van helping the appliances function better. There are a number of other reasons but it mostly makes it easier to change tires in an emergency. Old vans are not a good choice in any case. Rather have a newer Class C with an aluminum frame. Same money spent in the long run.
If I was in your situation I would be using new or reman parts, this is your home you wouldn't put used (possibly rotten) lumber in your home so why use parts that may not be any better than what you have? To be blunt you can save money but you're the one driving and living in this van and you can't put a price on peace of mind. Take care Tom
Owned 2003 leisure wide body dodge so know all about maintaining lol. Ball joints dodge famous for. Cooper tires yeah nice had them. Your van is rebuilt many miles more...
Dang, I love a van guy! If you were thirty years older and I wasn't already married... haha My '94 Ford Coachmen van has probably cost more to maintain than I expected, but it is the perfect transportation! It is 17' feet and self-contained (but the shorty has no propane, so I dodged that bullet). When it goes to the shop, there is usually someone that sees it and wishes it was theirs. I got a little cargo trailer and now I can haul my toys around, too.
good stuff,,, you'll be surprised how many people can't do math/science/reality,,, lol, be well out there!
$18,000 for 2 years seems like a lot, and some people may be put off at that much cost...BUT if you'd have rented an apartment or house for 2 years, you could expect to have paid $20-30,000 in rent or house payments, PLUS utilities AND car expenses. If you had rented a motel and driven your car across the country your cost could have even more. Perspective... makes those costs look much better.
My roadtrek exactly same and model you mentioned in your maintenance services you replace the fuel pump the mechanic cut a hole 🕳 in the floor would mind show me the exact location so I can do. I did that before on old dodge van I just want to get ahead just in case roadtrek fuel pump will fail I have 165k plus.
Appreciated thanks
Access panel is under the carpet above the gas tank.
@@HOBOTECH
Did the mechanic made the floor cut close to the table base.
I got this roadtrek 9 years ago no record of maintenance from the former owner so far runs great no indication of weak transmission I did my normal tuneup. Thanks for your videos on solar panels I exactly follow your videos my solar setups been on for almost a year now. 2- 100 watts panel 2- 125 ah AGM + house AGM, 1500 watts inverter for microwave and coffee brewer and insta pot pressure cooker and so on
Thanks for all the video 👍
Great video Tom looks like you went through a lot of expenses there with your Dodge I've been lucky I think of not having such major expenses such as a transmission.
Beware of scammers popping up during this time. Money is precious. A few pointers➡ th-cam.com/video/u8sn0t67fK4/w-d-xo.html 🐱
I'd take advise from him with a grain of salt. 😆
@@HOBOTECH He gives out common sense. Especially on e begging. Too many people on the internet taking advantage of others by not working.
Abusing kind hearted people. IMO.
I will keep my Toyota, thank you. Campershell might be a tad small. But its sooooo reliable!
Wow thanks for the honest realistic review. I own a similar 98 class b pleasureway also on a dodge chassis. It however only has 72K miles on it. Bought it with 55K miles. I religiously change the transmission fluid and engine oil with pure synthetic as often as I can to reduce the risk of major damage. The water pump just recently went out as its leaking antifreeze like yours was. I threw a stop leak to temporarily give me time. its a bitch to repair as the area to work is so tight and compact. I'll probably have someone else do it. So far I've been lucky with few repairs. By the way I never did put spacers on the rear wheels but noticed the difference in width. I read somewhere spacers put too much stress and strain on the rear axle
Where to buy a bumper and hood?
The guy that buys that vehicle from you is going to have the best vehicle in the world brand new everything
What you paid for a some of the items like brakes/tires/alignments were very reasonable. You did good !
Interesting that you said "I was wondering to this day if it was the transmission fluid change that blew up my transmission...". When I take my van RV to get an oil change, they always recommend that I change the transmission fluid. But I talked to the Dealership repair section and they say DO NOT DO IT. My fluid is supposed to be good for 150,000 miles before the first recommended change. I had heard that you can cause problems with unnecessary transmission and rear axle fluid changes. But this info is mostly hearsay on my part from a third party, so who knows.
Scotty Kilmer said if it is really old that the dirty fluid might keep it from slipping. Changing the fluid allows it to slip which then overheats the clutch plates and the transmission fails.
If it hasn't been serviced its likely on its way to failure anyway. Shops need a reason not to do the work and avoid that liability. Changing the fluid will clean out/loosen deposits and cause them to flow thru the system further exacerbating an already failing trans. So, the fluid change isnt the primary cause, just coincidental.
Rather than a simple fluid change, a regular pm trans flush would likely give better results. A change leaves many quarts of dirty fluid to contaminate the new.
You'd have to explain to me how contaminated fluid (with dirt & metal) that no longer has effective additives somehow causes less friction than new fluid? (other than resuspending deposits).
I've spent a lot of money on my 21 year old dodge can that has been converted to a camper van. But at least I know what I have
transmission fluid change - i shouted No! before you continued.....
Well it wasn't looking great and I had put almost 20k on it myself. I learned after talking to BBT that I should never need to change the fluid as it's synthetic and should last the life of the van.
da kitty tho.
Great reporting, and when you consider the cost of a new class B, still pretty cheap! If you were to do it over again, would you still buy a 25 year old coach and fix it as you have, or would you have spent a few thousand more to buy a 10 years newer model with less miles? I realize that time and opportunity drive these decisions, but in an ideal world, for someone planning to go full-time, would it make sense to invest up front to avoid potential major mechanical problems? I am just thinking that 144k is a lot of miles, and now at 168k, your next big expense might be the engine. I would expect any well-cared for gas engine to last 200k, but beound that, who knows. If the worst happens, do you spend the 5-6k to rebuild? With new trans and new differential already, hard not to keep going - still cheaper than buying a new one.
At the time I couldn't afford a 10 year newer $30k Roadtrek. So I would do it again.
TOM. they are not in your SHOES well said. I rather be on the road then working on the camper
Very informative video. Very good record keeping. All boils down to ain't no free lunch. Folks with very little money need to think twice about jumping on that bandwagon.
Thank you. Very helpful. Im looking at a 92 roadtrek 250
"I don't want to get under my vehicle with a bad back and knees doing this kind of auto-mechanic stuff anymore."
I don't, either, and with those same physical issues. And I can tell you, it don't get any BETTER as you get EVEN OLDER! Compared to me, in your 40s you're still a youngster! ;-)
I can't remember when (not even the year, let alone how old I was then) I decided that. Also, not being dirt-poor anymore helped with "let someone else do it." And, I'm at least 2 decades ahead of you age-wise. I still have the skills AND tools, but unless I HAVE to do something -- like being broken-down somewhere in the middle of nowhere, near some scary-looking cornfield and it's gettign dark, OR while off-roading in the sticks -- I don't. Not even oil changes: I take my Honda to a dealer (but bring my own filter, oil and OEM crush-washer -- just pay labor) and have them rotate the tires at the same time. I still do my own air-filter, cabin-filter, wiper blades, and windshield-washer fluid...but even a Geico Cave Man could do that easy stuff. At least a dealer doesn't stick me with outrageous bills for doing THOSE things!
One reason I take it in for regular maintenance (when the vehicle tells me to via Honda's "Maintenance Minder" system) is for documentation: I keep all the receipts for all work done on my vehicle since Day One. As for the air & cabin filter, I put that "done by owner" in a running text document (don't know how to make/use spreadsheets) in my "Honda" folder on my PC that I can print out if need be...the hard-copy receipts I get from the dealer go into a box for safe-keeping.
I think if the dealer charged REALLY outrageous $$ for oil-changes/tires-rotations, etc., I'd POSSIBLY do them myself...but again, it's a bit hard on me physically (but not impossible).
I'm not sure if it's the physical "discomfort" (aka: pain) doing it now (at my age) or the mental part, but I definitely CAN say that I'm not that "enthusiastic" about being an auto-mechanic-helper anymore (and pretty much HAD to back then: Couldn't afford the "professionals" on a regular basis).
But I can still "supervise" the job due to having done all sorts of car work (since I was 16). And, at least I can "talk shop" so the Service Advisors have a much harder time trying to BS me! ;-)
Happy Parking (due to the current "virus-crisis" restricting travel),
-- BR
Hobo you nailed it good on this one. Us old truckers really understand the cost of moving down the road that’s a fact.. those that don’t won’t last in the business as with TH-cam. Great job and spread sheet. Loved those drone shots on the outro...of your side be side. Keep um coming. Be safe and healthy💥🎩
Thanks, Shadow. I was hoping someone would mention the new outro.
Thank you! I will just keep working and get me a newer Rv. Wow, you did not put any real hard miles on it. That is an older truck; those parts are cheap. The more modern vehicle brakes don't get as much mileage. They cost double that price. You lucky if you get 9000 miles on brakes. Larger RV needs more brake work. Cheap parts replacing will cost more in the long haul; they rust out faster. This is why people get rid of them at 24,000 miles. Factory parts are better; they hold up longer.
Hey Tom. Great video, let's a guy know what expenses you might encounter on the road with an older RV. Everything you did was perfectly legit! Keep up the good work and great videos!
Class A is the worst
I love all the deserts and just eats tools when you're working on your car
Put a tarp on the ground when you get underneath it
what works for me when i buy old car is have every thing replaced new parts .battery. waterpump belts altnator tranmission be like having new car for half the price with no problems on road
Maybe I missed it as your spreadsheet won't let me enlarge the image but shouldn't your sheet also include your vehicle insurance cost??
That's different for everyone.
Hope to see ya again if Overland Expo West isn’t rescheduled again from July.
What did you pay for the van..? not sure I would use your transmission shop, while its great that they covered it but three times in 2 years is nuts..
Less than asking price. th-cam.com/video/WbI4zGJQ6Ck/w-d-xo.html
Awesome insight Tom thanks for sharing. I have a class B B3500 as well 1998 and agreed with everything you said. I've owned it now for 2 years and put about 5k in upgrades and maintenance. Safe travels. Tell Oden hello.
Hey, JG - I have a 1998 Dodge 190 Popular and the handling is HORRIBLE. I can't drive it over 45-50 mph without feeling like I'm about to roll over or blow off the road. Several people told me to get the Dodge Steering Stabilizer installed so I did. Didn't help AT ALL. Others told me to get the Red Head Steering box. I haven't done that yet because it's very expensive in the end, and another mechanic told me that won't cure the problem. He told me to instead have the strut rod bushings replaced and then get an alignment with very specific parameters which he shared with me. (He doesn't live near me so can't do the work.) Many other Roadtrek owners I know added the spacers which SEEMS to make sense, but Dodge Roadtrek owners have told me that the spacers made no difference at all and could cause problems, so I haven't dared to do those. Do you have any insights for a fellow '98 Dodge Roadtrek owner? I can't afford to do the amount of work @hobotech did, but mechanics keep telling me the van is in awesome shape for its age and has been very well cared for. I have almost all maintenance records and that does appear to be the case. THANK YOU for any thoughts you might have to share on any of this.
Communistic Mind Sets not allowing you to work on your own stuff. DAMN !
The demographic of RV users would dictate that most work would be done the way you had it done. I think your representation is a fair and realistic estimate. I will also add this caveat for anyone age 65 or older whether they are settlers or nomads: Prepare and allow for a $300 incidental (surprise) expense every month. You may well skip a month or two but the average will be very close to that (new glasses, Grandchildren graduations and birthdays, appliance failures, accidental damage, copays, prescriptions, etc.) My favorite euphemism has always been: “Every present has a price”. That includes retirement. Lol!
Not really that bad because it is your home. Maybe do an overall and include camping fees. That would be a good comparison. If you bought a new camper you would have paid that much more for it and then hit with depreciation. You will not take a depreciation hit since you have made it better than it was. In fact it is likely worth more than when you purchased it.
12mpg is actually quite good for what your driving loaded the way it is. Yes it all adds up. Keeping your ride dependable takes some doing.
If that transmission fluid change was done with a power flush then it very well could have caused the failure, especially if the existing fluid was very old. Very unlikely to have been caused by a gravity fluid drop and new filter install
They sucked the fluid out through the dipstick and replaced it without dropping the pan.
HOBOTECH It’s bad if you move the fluid with an external pump. It can easily dislodge crude buildup and cause serious problems. You can get away with it if done often enough to keep the internals clean but if done on a unit with very old fluid and crusty surfaces that the pumping action can dislodge it will cause damage
I guessed 16.5k my 30 year old Dodge B250 has averaged 3-350 in maintenance monthly repair expenses for my 4 years of ownership, it also might need another transmission rebuild, it's taken me to many great places
Two Transmissions one on each arm
Definitely have money set aside for maintenance. Thanks for another great video.
Still cheaper than my mortgage but yeah, having a garage and air tools helps a lot to keep the repair costs down plus you don't have to worry about wondering if the mechanic did it right or not. You mentioned homesteading, are you gonna build a workshop on there eventually once you find the land?
All he needs is a HUGE pole barn, pull the van under it, still live in it & put the solar panels on top of the pole barn
Illegal in most counties I'd want to live in.
Just a suggestion. Now that you have a trailer, I would not use overdrive when towing.
I don't.
Dude! You're awesome. Great info. Thank you, and I love your approach and rationale for why you do what you do the way you do. Well thought out and well put. I'm so not going to get out there in an old class b now, even though it'd be cool. You saved me
nice update I used to do all my own work. too old now, little things yes big no
i never do my own work on my rides, i can do the very basic, all that other work i dont know how nor do i want to do it,,, i under guessed the total- 10,001-- 11,000 is what i guessed,, be safe, be strong, be free, be blessed
Walmart...1 arm🤭🤣😂🤣.
Wow, the issues with an old vehicle and on rough terrain. Thanks for the info.
Thats the cost of a new $70K sprinter 4x4 with a 7 year 140,000 mile extended warranty isn't it?
To the penny.
That’s not bumper to bumper coverage. You still have to add in routine repairs, wear items and maintenance to say nothing about fuel. The payment on a $70K vehicle financed in a reasonable term length would be over $500 a month. If you were to buy one built out as an RV it would cost $125K minimum. Now you’re talking a $1800 a month payment
Don't forget the insurance on new Mercedes and the $150 oil changes to along with it.
Good point. :-)
$125K minimum? Thats a $55K makeover. What are you planning Saddam's 24K gold composting toilet? We must shop at different stores. Shouldn't cost more than $20K for Solar, bed, plumbing, cabinets etc, and doing the work yourself. Seriously , you have a good point. It would be way more expensive than just the sprinter.
I love the imitation of the trolls.....$6,000 a year $500 a month. I think I would expect about that. When I finally take off I was going to budget $400 for fuel and $400 for stays (shooting for free areas but....) a month. I don’t anticipate using the full $800 every month, but that’s what I plan to budget. Good info....thanks
Wow... lifting the transmission with one hand... Macho!... :)
Would be interested to know how much you paid for the van, if you don't mind sharing. Thanks.
Less than what they were asking th-cam.com/video/WbI4zGJQ6Ck/w-d-xo.html
Great video BTW!
Can you break it down to parts only
"I understand cars" ??? Why did you buy a DODGE? Only joking!!! /_**&
HOBO.…………...Please let me know what is the best (for the $$$) Solar gen.???
I wanted a Chevy 210 but they are near impossible to find in decent shape. I have covered in several recent videos the best bang for the buck generators (hint Bluetti 2400).
@@HOBOTECH THX, TOM!
Very informative.
thx another great video
Nailed it!
Any craving for an upgraded rig in the future?
Nope. It's all new now and setup how I like it.