Is the clutch cylinder on w169 a150 in the gearbox or outside? Do i need to take the whole engine and trans out for that? The clutch pedal is on the floor, any help? Master cylinder slave cylinder?
The clutch actuator (slave cylinder) is combined with the clutch thrust bearing, and is inside the clutch housing. You will have to take out the whole engine/gearbox/subframe as in the video. Good luck!
Great job. it's just a shame you've used speed . anyway, i'm wondering if you know the torque specs for the clutch pressure plate bolts and for the gearbox to engine bolts as well . apreciated if you could reply. Regards
Depends on the bolts. 8mm is 22Nm, 6mm is 9Nm according to MB manuals. Good luck! The gearbox to engine bolts I don't know, but these are not critical. I would assume 22Nm. Regards, M. G.
I just finished mine well pretty much. Serviced with engine oil, air and oil filter, sparks and new clutch kit. Only to find out the clutch pedal is now flat to the floor and it doesn’t come back up I’m guessing need bleeding something in the line any ideas ??
You must bleed the clutch circuit by having someone to pump the clutch pedal, and opening the bleeder screw on the clutch actuator down on the clutch housing when the pedal is down. Then close and the clutch pedal can be released. Repeat. Or use an Eezibleed pressure kit like I do; then it's a one man job. Check for leaks along the lines. Good luck!
@@mig1600 thanks for the tip I will do the bleeding and will see how it goes I do have a one person brake bleeding pump so it might be fine I’m just concerned about the clutch pedal being stuck on the floor I can pull it up by hand though
@@mig1600 thanks for everything. think the clutch is bled, car shifts gears as normal, however there's a grinding noise coming from the gearbox with the car in neutral and it gets really loud when driving around. any ideas on what can be wrong?? any help much apreciated before i go to the dealer for a diagnose. Regards
@@rickyquique3863 Difficult to diagnose without hearing the noise, but are you sure you installed the friction plate the right way out? It should be marked with 'Outside', and that side should be towards the gearbox. The other thing I can think of is a problem with the dual mass flywheel; they tend to disintegrate and make rattling noises.
Hello, would it be possible to get the video in full length? Or just the part where the crash bar and radiator are removed? I need it to repair some damage. It would be really great if that could work out!
@@mig1600 Thanks again. I read on WIS that it's not necessary to lower the subframe. The final front part of the subframe is attached to the main subframe with 3 bolts. And that part is right under the radiator. If you lift a little the radiator and remove that final subframe part, there should be space to make the sway bar slide under the radiator. Hope it helps for the future :-) all the best
If you mean the right crankshaft seal then it could be possible, however you will have to lower the engine with the whole subframe. It is possible to lower it approx. 10 cm to access the polymer belt and pulleys. It would be very tight though.
@@mig1600 thankyou for the quick reply!.....yes I meant the belt side seal... not the gearbox side... My car has done 88k miles what else would you recommend changing on this side while it's down
You will have to lower the front subframe assembly with the engine and gearbox, by unscrewing the 8 bolts holding it in place. You will need a car hoist like mine.
Holy smokes, well done! That lift must be costly... This is mainly for the clutch? I changed glowplugs without taking engine down. Apparently there is a way to lower the engine to access some stuff... Garages here in UK charge about £60 per hour labour so I might as well scrap it if the clutch goes!
Thanks :-). I did a lot more than just the clutch, but the clutch is an engine-out job. I also changed the glowplugs and middle exhaust, and lubricated the polymer drivebelt idler pulley bearings, as these were beginning to run dry. A common fault. Also changed the oil, brake fluid, filters etc. for a full service B. The lift cost 1500 GBP (equivalent), while I got a quote for the clutch exchange for approx. 2000 GBP. With glowplugs, service and all it would have been approx 3500 GBP. Also one of the glowplugs snapped during removal, and caused me some extra headache. A garage would have told me to scrap the car. So by doing it myself I saved the car from the scrapyard, and got a new lift as well :-). A win-win situation. Also gained some extra confidence from this job :-).
@@mig1600 Thats a hell of a job! Is there a manual with steps how to do this? Thanks for the information on the quotes... I bought my a180 w169 for abou £500 bargain find, so its deffinately not worth it for me, hopefully it will last another year or so, currently 162000 miles on it. Lift is a cool thing to have yes, for any future cars also! Ah damn, one of my glowplugs also snapped! What was supposed to be a one day job turned into almost a week whilst i waited for a glowplug removal kit to arrive...
@@tehdreamer Yes there is a Mercedes manual for PC installation, and a couple of books in German, but these are only copies of the Mercedes WIS/ASRA installation. You can buy the program on eBay and download it. Quite a hefty installation, and difficult to use. The older A-class seems to be quite cheap these days (avoid by all cost the first pre-2004 generation), no doubt due to the high cost of repair. However if you do it yourself you save a lot, since most is labour. And I love the car, they are actually very easy (but sometimes time-consuming) to work on, everything is well thought out. Yes, the glowplugs snap, they are not supposed to do that :-). I tried everything, but it wouldn't budge. The glowplug swap was more nerve wracking than the clutch. Luckily I was able to bore it out without damaging the threads, and clean up the threads afterwards. The plugs seems to be made of hardened cheese or something, they are quite soft. Yes you can lower the engine some 10 cm (4 inches) to access the alternator, polymer belt and pulleys, A/C unit and some other stuff. The polymer belt and pulleys is something to watch out for; screeching noise from the lower right part of the engine indicates the idler wheels are running dry, and you have to lower the engine to access them.
@@mig1600 Really impressive, thanks for sharing this video. i have the same issue here trying to remove one of the original glowplugs on my CVT 2008 w245 turbo with 141000 km mileage, cause the previous owner never replace them! Any tips on how to remove the glowplugs in case it snaps? And what's the tools you used to extract yours? I wonder how you were able to extract it on a cold engine!! In case i touch the cylinder you think it's better to replace the cylinder head of the engine too . I really appreciate if you could reply. Regards
@@mig1600 I just changed the fan belt on my w169 a150 was not an easy task either but with some wiggling got it done needs an oil change in coming days too
I know this is an old video. But I’ve studied it to remove my engine. Is there any chance you know the torque settings for the clutch plate when you changed your clutch? Thanks.
@@mig1600 Thank you for the information. My engine has had to come out because of a failed oil cooler (oil leak and oil in the coolant, but no coolant in the oil or overheating). So thought I’d change the clutch at the same time. Would you recommend replacing anything else while it’s all out? Thank you for your response.
@@TFC-tj5ql You must change the flat belt and idling wheels on the right side. These fail around 100K km. Also check the flywheel shock absorber springs, these also fail.
@@mig1600 Just thought I’d let you know I got my engine in and out. All back together now. It look me a total of 8 days by myself. With trolly jacks and axle stands on the floor. I started it today, seem to have a lot of knocking on the front while driving. Going to see if the subframe bolts need checking…. Or possibly the strut bolts need re tightening Thank you so much for your help and guidance.
Great video! I'd like to replace the pulleys and tensioner on a w245 (same engine). I was thinking about lowering the rear part of the engine unscrewing only the two rear engine mounts' bolts. Do you think it's possible this way? Apart from the exhaust will I have to detach other parts? Thank you very much :-)
Yes, it's possible to change the pulleys that way. However I think you will have to lower all 6 bolts holding the subframe. You will have to take care that the radiator and hoses don't get damaged. There is a special tool designed to hold the rad during this procedure, but it should be possible to do it without. Just be careful that the subframe does not fall down if you loosen all the bolts too much. Good luck!
@@mig1600 I meant loosening only the bolts of the two rear engine mounts, so that I can lower only the engine, not even touching the black subframe (too risky for me). Anyway I really appreciate your answer thank you again :-)
@@ticktime6569 Oh, I see. however loosening the subframe bolts is less risky, and less work. You could struggle to get the engine in line with the engine bolts if you loosen them instead.
I have a leakage problem with my brake liquid and also now some leakage with the window washer...do you know how to fix this? Would be so glad for some help! 😊
For the window washer, have you checked the washing fluid reservoir for any cracks? Mine had a crack near the upper mount peg, which was leaking when it was full. Replaced it with a new one.
@@viczak6307 yep you were right! It needed to be changed. Also the breaking fluid was due too bad breakpipes and they need to be replaced. Total cost 850 euro, merry Christmas for me🤣
@@zoltanrull3117 That was the price of the parts & labour or just parts? All oem parts? I'm aware of the fact that oem Mercedes-Benz parts are not cheap nor the labour is. If you're considering using the car for many years ahead you might think of an upgrade for the brake pipes (if the current ones are made of steel that will rust in a certain number of years you might use copper brake lines or if still available copper&nickel ones). The last mentioned ones were factory fitted to the Volvo 200 series and do not rust. Had one for more than 20 years and none of the brake lines was rusty. A rust free alloy for sure and harder than copper lines which might be prone to bubbling during ABS pump in use.
@@viczak6307 it was the price for both labour and parts. Well yes, Mercedes isn't known for beeing a cheap car🤣 I think they will putt copper lines on, so I hope I can use the car for many years 😊 I just love the little car!
Do like I did in the video: Take off front bumper. Take off intake air cooler and radiator. loosen front top dampers (three bolts from above). Take out both driveshafts. Take off exhaust. Loosen gearshift mechanism. Losen engine subframe and lower the subframe complete with engine/gearbox unit. Loosen engine mounting on the left side, raise engine/gearbox using the method in the video. Take off gearbox. Change clutch. Be sure to check that flywheel dampers are OK, if not change flywheel as well. Install in reverse order. Refill coolant and AC gas. Good luck!
Actually it is quite easy to remove the whole engine/gearbox/suspension assembly as a whole, however it is very heavy. All the connectors fit one place only, so not possible to make mistakes. Everything seems well thought out. But a good two days work to change the clutch.
Unfortunately, this video is absolutely useless. Even if you minimize the playback speed using TH-cam tools, the individual and important steps are unfortunately not usable. It's just way too fast......! Very unfortunate....!
![🔴 ฟุตบอลแชมป์กีฬา 7HD แชมเปียน คัพ 2024 [รอบรองชนะเลิศ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zPm8ClLVhoE/mqdefault.jpg)
That is more a lot than a weekend DIY. Great 👌
Good job . And without anyone's help .
I see you enjoying your work.
Have to do the same on my wife's superhorrormachine.....this video helps psicologically XD
После этого видео я уже передумал такую машину жэне покупать
So, Mercedes-Benz, how long will the repairs to my A-Class take? ‘We’ll need about 6 minutes, sir.’
Congratulations!👏 A very good job well done!👌
how many hours roughly do you think it took you , i have been asked to replace the flywheel on a 2008 A170 petrol auto , thanks Niall
@@montykart I did a lot of other work on this occasion, like changing the glowplugs. However just the clutch job I estimate 2 workdays.
Very good Job .
Is the clutch cylinder on w169 a150 in the gearbox or outside? Do i need to take the whole engine and trans out for that? The clutch pedal is on the floor, any help? Master cylinder slave cylinder?
The clutch actuator (slave cylinder) is combined with the clutch thrust bearing, and is inside the clutch housing. You will have to take out the whole engine/gearbox/subframe as in the video. Good luck!
Great job. it's just a shame you've used speed . anyway, i'm wondering if you know the torque specs for the clutch pressure plate bolts and for the gearbox to engine bolts as well . apreciated if you could reply. Regards
Depends on the bolts. 8mm is 22Nm, 6mm is 9Nm according to MB manuals. Good luck! The gearbox to engine bolts I don't know, but these are not critical. I would assume 22Nm. Regards, M. G.
The whole job including the glowplug swap and other work took 5 days, I had to speed it up a bit :-).
I just finished mine well pretty much. Serviced with engine oil, air and oil filter, sparks and new clutch kit. Only to find out the clutch pedal is now flat to the floor and it doesn’t come back up I’m guessing need bleeding something in the line any ideas ??
You must bleed the clutch circuit by having someone to pump the clutch pedal, and opening the bleeder screw on the clutch actuator down on the clutch housing when the pedal is down. Then close and the clutch pedal can be released. Repeat. Or use an Eezibleed pressure kit like I do; then it's a one man job.
Check for leaks along the lines. Good luck!
@@mig1600 thanks for the tip
I will do the bleeding and will see how it goes
I do have a one person brake bleeding pump so it might be fine
I’m just concerned about the clutch pedal being stuck on the floor
I can pull it up by hand though
@@mig1600 thanks for everything. think the clutch is bled, car shifts gears as normal, however there's a grinding noise coming from the gearbox with the car in neutral and it gets really loud when driving around. any ideas on what can be wrong?? any help much apreciated before i go to the dealer for a diagnose. Regards
@@rickyquique3863 Difficult to diagnose without hearing the noise, but are you sure you installed the friction plate the right way out? It should be marked with 'Outside', and that side should be towards the gearbox. The other thing I can think of is a problem with the dual mass flywheel; they tend to disintegrate and make rattling noises.
Hello, would it be possible to get the video in full length? Or just the part where the crash bar and radiator are removed? I need it to repair some damage. It would be really great if that could work out!
@@tlb565 I’ll check if I still have the originals.
@@mig1600that would be great 😊
@@mig1600 did you found it?
@@tlb565 Sorry I deleted all the files it seems, due to size.
Tes un génie génie 👍🏽
Hi, great video. Do you know the steps to remove the entire sway bar? Is it necessary to lower the subframe? Thank you :-)
Hi! Yes, you would need to lower the subframe to do that.
@@mig1600 Thanks again. I read on WIS that it's not necessary to lower the subframe. The final front part of the subframe is attached to the main subframe with 3 bolts. And that part is right under the radiator. If you lift a little the radiator and remove that final subframe part, there should be space to make the sway bar slide under the radiator. Hope it helps for the future :-) all the best
Hello amazing job you did......can you do the crankshaft seal without removing engine mine is leaking alot?
If you mean the right crankshaft seal then it could be possible, however you will have to lower the engine with the whole subframe. It is possible to lower it approx. 10 cm to access the polymer belt and pulleys. It would be very tight though.
@@mig1600 thankyou for the quick reply!.....yes I meant the belt side seal... not the gearbox side... My car has done 88k miles what else would you recommend changing on this side while it's down
@@tazhussain3563 You will have to take a look at the three belt idlers. The bearings get noisy and fail at around 70-80k miles.
The starter motor on my A160 CDI has died. Might be game over for the car because it seems so awkward to get to. Any thoughts?
You will have to lower the front subframe assembly with the engine and gearbox, by unscrewing the 8 bolts holding it in place. You will need a car hoist like mine.
Holy smokes, well done! That lift must be costly... This is mainly for the clutch? I changed glowplugs without taking engine down. Apparently there is a way to lower the engine to access some stuff... Garages here in UK charge about £60 per hour labour so I might as well scrap it if the clutch goes!
Thanks :-). I did a lot more than just the clutch, but the clutch is an engine-out job. I also changed the glowplugs and middle exhaust, and lubricated the polymer drivebelt idler pulley bearings, as these were beginning to run dry. A common fault. Also changed the oil, brake fluid, filters etc. for a full service B. The lift cost 1500 GBP (equivalent), while I got a quote for the clutch exchange for approx. 2000 GBP. With glowplugs, service and all it would have been approx 3500 GBP. Also one of the glowplugs snapped during removal, and caused me some extra headache. A garage would have told me to scrap the car. So by doing it myself I saved the car from the scrapyard, and got a new lift as well :-). A win-win situation. Also gained some extra confidence from this job :-).
@@mig1600 Thats a hell of a job! Is there a manual with steps how to do this? Thanks for the information on the quotes... I bought my a180 w169 for abou £500 bargain find, so its deffinately not worth it for me, hopefully it will last another year or so, currently 162000 miles on it. Lift is a cool thing to have yes, for any future cars also!
Ah damn, one of my glowplugs also snapped! What was supposed to be a one day job turned into almost a week whilst i waited for a glowplug removal kit to arrive...
@@tehdreamer Yes there is a Mercedes manual for PC installation, and a couple of books in German, but these are only copies of the Mercedes WIS/ASRA installation. You can buy the program on eBay and download it. Quite a hefty installation, and difficult to use. The older A-class seems to be quite cheap these days (avoid by all cost the first pre-2004 generation), no doubt due to the high cost of repair. However if you do it yourself you save a lot, since most is labour. And I love the car, they are actually very easy (but sometimes time-consuming) to work on, everything is well thought out. Yes, the glowplugs snap, they are not supposed to do that :-). I tried everything, but it wouldn't budge. The glowplug swap was more nerve wracking than the clutch. Luckily I was able to bore it out without damaging the threads, and clean up the threads afterwards. The plugs seems to be made of hardened cheese or something, they are quite soft. Yes you can lower the engine some 10 cm (4 inches) to access the alternator, polymer belt and pulleys, A/C unit and some other stuff. The polymer belt and pulleys is something to watch out for; screeching noise from the lower right part of the engine indicates the idler wheels are running dry, and you have to lower the engine to access them.
Lucky you. here in Guernsey the main dealer Jackson's charges over £100 depending on year and model. lol
@@mig1600 Really impressive, thanks for sharing this video. i have the same issue here trying to remove one of the original glowplugs on my CVT 2008 w245 turbo with 141000 km mileage, cause the previous owner never replace them! Any tips on how to remove the glowplugs in case it snaps? And what's the tools you used to extract yours? I wonder how you were able to extract it on a cold engine!! In case i touch the cylinder you think it's better to replace the cylinder head of the engine too . I really appreciate if you could reply. Regards
Well doge lit of work involved there one question what's the name of the song used in the video?
The music is 'The Boy Got Skills' by Max McFerren, from the free TH-cam library.
@@mig1600 I just changed the fan belt on my w169 a150 was not an easy task either but with some wiggling got it done needs an oil change in coming days too
Wow! Amazing 👌🏼
I know this is an old video. But I’ve studied it to remove my engine. Is there any chance you know the torque settings for the clutch plate when you changed your clutch?
Thanks.
Yes, first stage 3Nm, second stage 9Nm. Good luck 😊. I still have the car by the way.
@@mig1600
Thank you for the information. My engine has had to come out because of a failed oil cooler (oil leak and oil in the coolant, but no coolant in the oil or overheating). So thought I’d change the clutch at the same time.
Would you recommend replacing anything else while it’s all out?
Thank you for your response.
@@TFC-tj5ql You must change the flat belt and idling wheels on the right side. These fail around 100K km. Also check the flywheel shock absorber springs, these also fail.
@@mig1600
Just thought I’d let you know I got my engine in and out. All back together now.
It look me a total of 8 days by myself. With trolly jacks and axle stands on the floor.
I started it today, seem to have a lot of knocking on the front while driving. Going to see if the subframe bolts need checking…. Or possibly the strut bolts need re tightening
Thank you so much for your help and guidance.
the stuf U coud do in one day because of over-engeneering turns in a nightmare
Absolute nightmare. Getting my clutch changed today and it's costing me £1400.
Is it possible to change the clutch without taking the engine out?
It could be done, but would mean much more work. Better take out the whole subframe with the engine/gearbox.
@@mig1600 ok cool just making sure they aren't ripping me off. Thank you for the reply.
Did your life depend on this car or something ? ..
Great video! I'd like to replace the pulleys and tensioner on a w245 (same engine). I was thinking about lowering the rear part of the engine unscrewing only the two rear engine mounts' bolts. Do you think it's possible this way? Apart from the exhaust will I have to detach other parts? Thank you very much :-)
Yes, it's possible to change the pulleys that way. However I think you will have to lower all 6 bolts holding the subframe. You will have to take care that the radiator and hoses don't get damaged. There is a special tool designed to hold the rad during this procedure, but it should be possible to do it without. Just be careful that the subframe does not fall down if you loosen all the bolts too much. Good luck!
@@mig1600 I meant loosening only the bolts of the two rear engine mounts, so that I can lower only the engine, not even touching the black subframe (too risky for me). Anyway I really appreciate your answer thank you again :-)
@@ticktime6569 Oh, I see. however loosening the subframe bolts is less risky, and less work. You could struggle to get the engine in line with the engine bolts if you loosen them instead.
@@mig1600 nice point. Thanks man really
Comment on place la courroie alternateur
Du moteur diesel Mercedes Benz
I am not superman, like the guy in the video. Watched halfway and gave up.
I have a leakage problem with my brake liquid and also now some leakage with the window washer...do you know how to fix this? Would be so glad for some help! 😊
For the window washer, have you checked the washing fluid reservoir for any cracks? Mine had a crack near the upper mount peg, which was leaking when it was full. Replaced it with a new one.
@@viczak6307 yep you were right! It needed to be changed. Also the breaking fluid was due too bad breakpipes and they need to be replaced. Total cost 850 euro, merry Christmas for me🤣
@@zoltanrull3117 That was the price of the parts & labour or just parts? All oem parts? I'm aware of the fact that oem Mercedes-Benz parts are not cheap nor the labour is. If you're considering using the car for many years ahead you might think of an upgrade for the brake pipes (if the current ones are made of steel that will rust in a certain number of years you might use copper brake lines or if still available copper&nickel ones). The last mentioned ones were factory fitted to the Volvo 200 series and do not rust. Had one for more than 20 years and none of the brake lines was rusty. A rust free alloy for sure and harder than copper lines which might be prone to bubbling during ABS pump in use.
@@viczak6307 it was the price for both labour and parts. Well yes, Mercedes isn't known for beeing a cheap car🤣 I think they will putt copper lines on, so I hope I can use the car for many years 😊 I just love the little car!
I need detil instruction for this job sir?
Do like I did in the video: Take off front bumper. Take off intake air cooler and radiator. loosen front top dampers (three bolts from above). Take out both driveshafts. Take off exhaust. Loosen gearshift mechanism. Losen engine subframe and lower the subframe complete with engine/gearbox unit. Loosen engine mounting on the left side, raise engine/gearbox using the method in the video. Take off gearbox. Change clutch. Be sure to check that flywheel dampers are OK, if not change flywheel as well. Install in reverse order. Refill coolant and AC gas. Good luck!
What is the name of elevator/hoist?
Unilift ML3000 - unilift.no
Totally nuts, Il never try it
The ultimate horror engine...
Actually it is quite easy to remove the whole engine/gearbox/suspension assembly as a whole, however it is very heavy. All the connectors fit one place only, so not possible to make mistakes. Everything seems well thought out. But a good two days work to change the clutch.
Мы по литру водки выпили пока движок на палубу спускали.
Unfortunately, this video is absolutely useless. Even if you minimize the playback speed using TH-cam tools, the individual and important steps are unfortunately not usable.
It's just way too fast......!
Very unfortunate....!
This car is 3000 euro , reperation is 2000 euro , idioot mercedes
This is not metcedes , problem car , mercedes mercedes why so idioot construction , gearbox problem kompleet motor out man man man