Really great job mate! and massive appreciation for showing also your mistakes and the thought process on solving them. Also, might be a bit of oa dumb request, but could you do like a short or a video explaining how to properly do relief cuts? I have a massive difficulty doing them without cutting too much and not properly overlap or too little and it make air pockets. Cheers!!
Hey hey, appreciate it! I have a short on relief cuts. You’ll find it in the “tip of the day” playlist which should be on my channel page. Let me know if you have trouble tracking it down 🤙
such a craftsmen to be able to come up with ideas how to repair, and when something goes wrong still come up with new ideas and in the end come out with a result so accurate
Appreciate that! I think it all boils down to product knowledge at the end of the day! A system of steps is important but without the product knowledge, the steps are hard to work out.
Definitely gave old mate the deal on this one. He's a good customer, brings me a lot of work and I felt pretty stink for him that this happened. The reality is that this job probably should have been closer to the 375 mark but I made some mistakes along the way that set me back and he did wait for quite some time for me to start it. Gotta take care of the locals as much as possible!
Master at work! Amazing finish. I’m glad you decided to redo that left foam piece. Just didn’t look right. Looking forward to seeing your hammerhead model take to the market. I’ll be first up to give her a whirl! 😀Love these vids. Chur from the Naki NZ 🤙🏽😎🤙🏽
Very complex repair but very nicely one as usual! I was a little surprised with your comment about epoxy reacting with your paint where polyester wouldn't but you've got experience I do not. Beautiful work and I'm sure your customer is very please - well worth the wait!
Chur! The trouble with epoxy is that it’s very sensitive to any outside chemicals that it might come in contact with. Oils, silicones, dusts and debris and even the chemicals within a lot of paints. Waterbased paints are the recommendation for under resin application (once it’s cured you can paint it with anything) but, even waterbased paints can cause issues so most people/manufacturers have just resorted to painting over the top once it’s cured. Epoxy is a great product but can be a nightmare to troubleshoot causes of problems because there is always so many potential reasons for the issue.
Man, you spend a lot of time on these repairs and they are amazing. I'm not criticizing, but I can't imagine people actually paying you what you deserve. I enjoy your videos. Now I'm gonna go fix the jacked up nose on my board.
Haha, I always get paid what I'm owed but never what I deserve! There is a very strange, global attitude around surfboard repairs and I would say I'm yet to meet a ding repairer who's paid what they deserve! Largely, it speaks to their good character, honesty and fairness though if there is a silver lining!
Appreciate it! Wet sanding serves a couple of purposes. It allows for a less harsh sand with the slickness of the water (some people add soap too) as you move into the finer grits of paper. Think of the coarsness of your kitchen scourer when it’s dry vs when it’s wet. Another benefit is that the water washes away and softens debris that can get stuck under your sandpaper and cause scratches that are harsher than your sand papers grit. Pieces of sand and fibreglass are probably the most common in my line of work
could the board be damaged by a fork lift pushing in a harder pallet into the transit and slid the pallets a little wee bit to far and crumpled the nose by front pressure like a can crumples ,only a thought ,, gr8 job mucker,x
Epoxy can be really sensitive to any outside chemicals you add to the mix. If you do need to paint under it then water based paint is the recommendation but if you look at 99% of epoxy boards, the paint is always on top of the finished fibreglass, not below. Not to say it can't be done, I kind of proved myself wrong in this very video, but as a whole, the industry has, rightly so, decided to avoid doing it as the risks of having problems is just too high.
@@chriscoralAloha definitely an option worth keeping tints around for. This method comes in use more if the board is done with a resin tint though as most painted epoxies will be paint over glass so that final stage will hide your tinted filler. Colours like red, yellow and orange have terrible coverage characteristics though so your tinted filler can act as a base coat to help hide the repair with paint. Easier to hide red filler with red paint than white filler with red paint. 🤙
Haha, there’s probably a few things I could have done with that stringer to make things a bit easier. Usually I just free hand the rocker on jobs like these and they come out fine so it’s not usual I focus so hard on the rocker like this. Learning curves on this job for sure
That thumbnail is amazing! And the video as well,! Maybe you could have painted the foam white in the area of the crack so you wouldn't see the transition as much? Or do you have a good reason not to do this?
Haha, made me giggle! I definitely considered trying to hide that join. I decided against it in the end because I've found in the past that it can end up standing out more because finding a bright white that matches the foam (and especially the foams glittery texture) is pretty hard if not impossible and you end up having to blend it quite far down the board to attempt to hide it.
delivery people these days are a special lot. See them tossing items blindly over walls. Most on my street, it’s like the numbers on the side of buildings are an unknown thing to them each time they show up. I guess they need their mobile device to assure them.
Fantastic work including forethought, methods and detail.
Shot bro, appreciate it!
Really great job mate! and massive appreciation for showing also your mistakes and the thought process on solving them. Also, might be a bit of oa dumb request, but could you do like a short or a video explaining how to properly do relief cuts? I have a massive difficulty doing them without cutting too much and not properly overlap or too little and it make air pockets. Cheers!!
Hey hey, appreciate it! I have a short on relief cuts. You’ll find it in the “tip of the day” playlist which should be on my channel page. Let me know if you have trouble tracking it down 🤙
Thanks for the reply! I’ll give it a look
such a craftsmen to be able to come up with ideas how to repair, and when something goes wrong still come up with new ideas and in the end come out with a result so accurate
Appreciate that! I think it all boils down to product knowledge at the end of the day! A system of steps is important but without the product knowledge, the steps are hard to work out.
This repair was more like surgery, $300 was a bargain.
I agree. How much does Rhinoplasty cost??
@@chriscoralAloha 6k + for a new beak
HAH!
Definitely gave old mate the deal on this one. He's a good customer, brings me a lot of work and I felt pretty stink for him that this happened. The reality is that this job probably should have been closer to the 375 mark but I made some mistakes along the way that set me back and he did wait for quite some time for me to start it. Gotta take care of the locals as much as possible!
Beautiful work!
Chur!
massive job! patience is definitely a virtue!
Gotta take your time with jobs like these, always prepared to take backwards steps!
Lamb of god logo and name is so kiff. Well done
Makes me laugh, haha!
Thank you for always sharing yoir ideas and knowledge.
Pleasure man, thanks for watching!
Brilliant thumbnail worth a like already😂
Haha, made me giggle!
Nice work , lots of patience. This video didn’t make me dizzy .last one I couldn’t finish. I have bad motion sickness lol
Nice, glad this one didn't make you sick!
Man, a very cool fix, you are a professional🐬
Mahalos!
Master at work! Amazing finish. I’m glad you decided to redo that left foam piece. Just didn’t look right. Looking forward to seeing your hammerhead model take to the market. I’ll be first up to give her a whirl! 😀Love these vids. Chur from the Naki NZ 🤙🏽😎🤙🏽
I lost sleep over that crappy rail line 😆 pretty keen on the hammerhead!
Very complex repair but very nicely one as usual! I was a little surprised with your comment about epoxy reacting with your paint where polyester wouldn't but you've got experience I do not. Beautiful work and I'm sure your customer is very please - well worth the wait!
Chur! The trouble with epoxy is that it’s very sensitive to any outside chemicals that it might come in contact with. Oils, silicones, dusts and debris and even the chemicals within a lot of paints. Waterbased paints are the recommendation for under resin application (once it’s cured you can paint it with anything) but, even waterbased paints can cause issues so most people/manufacturers have just resorted to painting over the top once it’s cured.
Epoxy is a great product but can be a nightmare to troubleshoot causes of problems because there is always so many potential reasons for the issue.
Epic craftsmanship!
Amazing work. You set the bar for the ding repair world. 36:10 . Always
At least for the youtube ding repair world haha!
top notch!
Mahalos!
Man, you spend a lot of time on these repairs and they are amazing. I'm not criticizing, but I can't imagine people actually paying you what you deserve. I enjoy your videos. Now I'm gonna go fix the jacked up nose on my board.
Haha, I always get paid what I'm owed but never what I deserve! There is a very strange, global attitude around surfboard repairs and I would say I'm yet to meet a ding repairer who's paid what they deserve! Largely, it speaks to their good character, honesty and fairness though if there is a silver lining!
Amazing work!
Appreciated 🤙
Very, very, impressive.
Appreciated!
Nice!!
Nice job as always, iv learnt Abit from it. But I'm wondering when the Roger land is going to make appearance, hatchet fin to by the looks.
O boy, I'm so backed up with restos at the moment but we'll get to it one day! 😂
Beautiful & Perfect. I have a question. What is the reason for wet sanding?
Appreciate it!
Wet sanding serves a couple of purposes. It allows for a less harsh sand with the slickness of the water (some people add soap too) as you move into the finer grits of paper. Think of the coarsness of your kitchen scourer when it’s dry vs when it’s wet.
Another benefit is that the water washes away and softens debris that can get stuck under your sandpaper and cause scratches that are harsher than your sand papers grit. Pieces of sand and fibreglass are probably the most common in my line of work
Master Craftsman!!
could the board be damaged by a fork lift pushing in a harder pallet into the transit and slid the pallets a little wee bit to far and crumpled the nose by front pressure like a can crumples ,only a thought ,, gr8 job mucker,x
Yup I reckon a slow squeeze from end to end is what did this one. Could definitely be the fork lift!
Why not use paint under epoxy? What paint , method should I use??
Epoxy can be really sensitive to any outside chemicals you add to the mix. If you do need to paint under it then water based paint is the recommendation but if you look at 99% of epoxy boards, the paint is always on top of the finished fibreglass, not below.
Not to say it can't be done, I kind of proved myself wrong in this very video, but as a whole, the industry has, rightly so, decided to avoid doing it as the risks of having problems is just too high.
Thank you. What about tinting epoxy fill?@@smallkinedings
@@chriscoralAloha definitely an option worth keeping tints around for. This method comes in use more if the board is done with a resin tint though as most painted epoxies will be paint over glass so that final stage will hide your tinted filler. Colours like red, yellow and orange have terrible coverage characteristics though so your tinted filler can act as a base coat to help hide the repair with paint. Easier to hide red filler with red paint than white filler with red paint. 🤙
Thank you. Great idea about the tint base. @@smallkinedings
Great job. Just a question though. Would it not have been easier to make a template with cardboard and then cut the stringer
Haha, there’s probably a few things I could have done with that stringer to make things a bit easier. Usually I just free hand the rocker on jobs like these and they come out fine so it’s not usual I focus so hard on the rocker like this. Learning curves on this job for sure
ALL the time 🎶
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻🤙🏼
What’s that tool you’re using for concaves etc.?
That thumbnail is amazing! And the video as well,! Maybe you could have painted the foam white in the area of the crack so you wouldn't see the transition as much? Or do you have a good reason not to do this?
Haha, made me giggle!
I definitely considered trying to hide that join. I decided against it in the end because I've found in the past that it can end up standing out more because finding a bright white that matches the foam (and especially the foams glittery texture) is pretty hard if not impossible and you end up having to blend it quite far down the board to attempt to hide it.
Yeah that makes sense! Thanks for the quick reply!
insane
delivery people these days are a special lot. See them
tossing items blindly over walls. Most on my street, it’s like the numbers on the side of buildings are an unknown thing to them each time they show up. I guess they need their mobile device to assure them.
Rough as guts!!
Look TH-cam. Viewer engagement!
Legend!
Do you by chance own Dewalt and or Ryobi power tools?
Howdy howdy,
I do own a ryobi plunge router which I use for longboard boxes. No dewalt though, I’m a makita man!