Fantastic video, I’ve build many engines over 30 years yet I learned a lot from just this one. I like how you explain the physics behind some of that. I’m so grateful people like you take the time to make really high quality videos like this, I know it’s not easy - thanks ❤
I have a question I'm building my own 454 gene 6. How do I suppose to adjust the valve rockts I really appreciate if you give me a tip I am complete loss. So the last time built a engine but 30 years ago.?
You weren't worried about her over torqueing those bolts with that speed wrench, brave man. I think you should have touched up the valve covers with that hot rod black you painted the cab with. Love the video man.
Brother, you just answered a burning question I had. I just replaced the timing chain on my Gen 5 454. I was stumped as to why the distributor rotor was at #6 cylinder when the timing gears were aligned. I was thinking it should have aligned to #1. That little bit of info just made my week!..Thanks for the vid!
It got me as well, I thought I was 180* off when I aligned it to the #1 cyl prior to disassembly. I had to have the machine shop explain it to me before I put it back together. Glad it helped you.
You need to elaborate on the cam timing more. The compression cycle is determined by the cam position, not the distributor. IOW TDC on the compression stroke doesn’t exist until you time the cam. Can you discuss the dot alignment better?
Never seen any of your videos I watched this one for a specific piece of information which I found almost instantly but watched the whole thing anyway. Love how methodical and precise you are and how you explain why you are doing things that way. And its awesome to see you getting the next generation of motorheads working early!
Great you have Betty on the job. Love seeing the kids getting "dirty" and learning a skill. She may follow another course but she's in there learning and time with them is so precious. Love you attention to deal but not pre painting the tin(s) and balancer is the only thing I disagree with. Nice work otherwise.
Awesome video and build. Now the "but". That oil pan?!?! I have had marine pans rot out and even a 454 Suburban pan rot out and leak! On the marine pans I had the exterior powder coated, on the 454 I bought a new one... Dumping oil is not good. The rest of the build is awesome!
As always good work and I like the way you show your kid .like its just a thing and if you want lets do some stuff jump in with dad thats how i would do my kids .
100%. I didn't paint the valve covers because they were previously powder coated and chipped and it's a commercial truck, but I should have painted the oil pan before assembly just got rust protection.
Once again, very enjoyable video. Loved the assembly music and your little helper ! And the editing ! I'm surprised you didn't add the date and mileage ( since it's going back into the same truck) to your artwork !
I love the how thorough you are in your videos. Usually I’m enamored at other tubers who just brush over and/or omit the complicated bits. Your details and knowledge you’re sharing is greatly appreciated. 👍🏽 Also, that pocket guide seems very useful. Where can I find one?
amzn.to/3sJ1Vxx I love this guide, I use it all the time. I use the hardware section the most, but the friction loss in plumbing can be super helpful if you are trying to do balanced plumbing
Mike here...great video, I'm German and am very peticular about assembly techniques...Gutentight..love it... Any way recently purchased 2000 K3500 , 5 speed manual...7.4 ...flatbed... Going to build a "Search and Rescue " Tow and recovery truck... My engine has 140,000 miles...... Still has life, and I will use it up accordingly ..... I would like to build a replacement engine for it...maybe reliability crossed with a small bit of "I built this one"... I believe you can relate.... So after all this talk.... I need parts resources, perfered brands and where to aquire them... Felpro gaskets , Clevite bearing and so on.... I know I'm asking a bit...but I'm grateful for what you have time for.... I taught my daughter like you did... I buit a boat ,396 in a 1978 Sanger Picklefork Hydro...my daughter was there on the build and we enjoyed that boat together for over 20 + years.... Now I have grandchildren....I have projects for them... Thank you, Mike
Sounds like you've got an awesome rig. 140k miles may be nothing on that engine. Mine was bad at 130k, but it was in a box truck and probably beaten to death and neglected. I have seen big blocks with 300k miles in perfect shape. Shoot me an email with any questions and ill help however I can: acthecarguy@gmail.com
Mine is torn down now. (L-29) I see the L-21 has 2 holes by oil filter for oil cooler. Did you remove oil by pass valve from oil pump to oil filter pad. I see the other bypass valve at filter base. GM put check valve in main oil line to make cooler work.
This engine was in a commercial truck that had the heavy duty oil cooler with the quick connect fittings. One of those fittings has a built in check valve. I removed those fittings before sending in the block to be rebuilt and reinstalled them after installing the engine back in the truck.
Geez Louis, I give you a shout out and link to your channel and you don't even have the decency to go back through my old videos and watch them for hours until you get to the part where you can see my old pistons to know that they were in fact flat tops. Some friend you are. (Thx for the old distributor)
Good video, few questions, why didn't you install a new cam and lifters if you had new cam bearings installed? Not sure it was good idea to paint the inside of the block it can flake off and possible oil blockages could occur, the rubber end gaskets will eventually leak you installed they will swell up and push out. 😉
That paint is called glyptal and it's designed for painting the interior of engines to allow the oil to flow easier over the cast surface. The only time I don't use the rubber end seals is when it's an aftermarket intake manifold. I didn't change the cam or lifters because they didn't need changing, they were in perfect shape.
It gives me a sense there may be hope for me, when someone with your apparent and evident organization skill misplaces a tool. The number of tools of which I own duplicates due to misplacement is an embarrassment to me. Excellent video, thanks for watching.
I blame it on moving my shop twice in the last year. Luckily I now have that old distributor as a backup. I did buy the same pitman arm puller 3 times because I use it so rarely I forget I own one. Well, now I own 3.
Totally. Being from PHX, rust is not even on my radar but knowing the truck is headed to Chicago I painted the oil pan after it was put together to protect it.
So, the camshaft positioning sprocket...is that standard to all genVI 454s? I bought mine disassembled so I dont know if I have that, need that, or have the option. BTW, You're doing a great job dad!
That is a great question. That was applied by the engine shop so I'll have to confirm with them. I'll have to check out the 4G63, which is one of my all time favorite engines.
How hard would it be to turn a modern big block like this to be making around 400 to 500 hp? Would it even be a good idea? Just been brainstorming recently.
Super easy. This engine is detuned by the computer to put out 290 hp and 400 tq. It could easily hit 400 hp at the crank with just a dyno tune and maybe a slight increase in fuel pressure. Of course, this is going in a commercial truck so I am keeping it stock. My buddy is currently working to get his big block to 1500 hp, you can check out his build at th-cam.com/users/LawrenceLTTolman
@@AustinCoulson Thanks for replying! I watched LT not too long ago, and was quite impressed by his 8.1 build. I kind of lost track of his stuff recently. I'll definitely give it a look.
whats that orange paint that in the engine block ive heard once that its a really slick paint and that oil will drain super fast and what not,not sure if thats true just curious
If you were installing new lifters in this engine, would it matter which way youface the oil hole ?? I’m installed new lifters in my L29 and I’m not sure exactly which way the holes on the old lifters were facing
Okay... so I was raised on cubic inches... not, what, cubic liters? What does a 7.4 Liter convert to in cubic inches. I'm pretty sure that the Ford 5.0 is about equivalent to the 302... but what do I really know. I've been watching your channel now for years... but somehow I missed this one, so when it came up in my suggested feed, I clicked on it right away. You'll probably address this, but I can't believe that YOU of all people put that oil pan on without cleaning it up a bit. Looks like it had lots of surface rust... and was looking pretty trashed. I guess I'll find out. (Love to see you include your kids as you teach them the ropes). Thanks Austin.
That is a Chevrolet big block 454. Specifically it is the last generation before changing to the 8.1liter (496ci?) LS based big block. I definitely should have at least scuffed and painted that oil pan but it was only surface rust and the inside was super clean so I just installed it. I also regret not cleaning up and painting the harmonic balancer to protect it from future corrosion because that part is absolutely impossible to source.
That is a great question. So long as you keep the extension parallel to the bolt, the torque reading should be unchanged, but in practice you definitely should use no extension or the shortest extension required when torquing a bolt. Because these were very low torque on an oil pan and not something like a bearing cap I felt comfortable using the extension to made the job go quicker.
Did you verify if the internls where forged? I picked up a L21 from a 1999 Kodiak after reading that they had forged crank and pistons , after pulling it appart I found out that it had cast crank and pistons. Just curious what others have found.
I also have read multiple places about the forged internals. Before I brought the engine to the shop, the owner said it wouldn't have forged parts and the internals were the same on all GEN VI BBCs. I am not an engine expert so I couldn't tell for sure, but the crank had a single parting line and sure looked cast to me. Not sure about the pistons because I didn't remove them and they were replaced with .030 over hypereutectic ones. I would love to get my hands on a known forged one just to see the difference first hand.
29:19 --> ERROR! Fuel line gets tighten down with the stud, then the retaining clip goes onto the other nut to hold down the map sensor. If your map sensor ever goes out to lunch your going to struggle.
How much did it cost to have the bottom End rebuilt? I have the same engine and want to get it built or build it my self so its faster. 😂. Im planning on building a rock crawler soon and i want to out the 454 in it
To have the short block built, it was 1800$. That included the machining, assembly, all the bearings and new pistons. They reused the crank, rods and cam as they were in good shape
Has anyone had this issue when priming , only the drivers side gets oil to rockers? No idea why the motor was machined and cleaned at a shop makes zero sense to me. Any help would be great
I have seen only one side prime if I am using a lower powered drill. It seems to need a lot of power to get the oil pressure high enough to flow through all the rockers
@@AustinCoulson Many thanks for chiming-in with that info. Much appreciated. I recently saw another similar build video of the 8.1 and there it was mentioned that the 8.1 was all metric.
Depends on who you ask. Nearly every expert engine builder I know would say lifter location makes no difference, they toss them in a container of oil prior to install and pull them at random for reinstall (same for the rockers and pushrods). I know some amateur builders who lose their marbles if they aren't put back exactly in the same spot. Being hydraulic they are self adjusting so the only real concern IMHO would be the slight wear on the top of the lifter not matching and potentially having a slight increase in wear in the future on the lifters or guides. Personally I aim to reinstall in the same spot, but if it's not practical or even possible I don't worry about it.
I have the 7.4l V8 Vortex engine in my K3500 1998 Chevy Silvarado king cab dually 4x4 and I had a question for you. The last freeze we had we got below -9F and my free plug popped out on the drivers side 2nd plug back from the front of the engine. There is a senor next to it that screws into the block, can you tell me what that is? Coolant temperature? My freezplug is sitting right behind it that fell out and I have no clue because n book I have tells me. Can you? Im also trying to find a way to get it back in since there is so little room to do so. Any ideas? Any help would be really helpful.
@@AustinCoulson Ok thank you so much! Its looking like I also might have to take off my exhaust manifold to get to the freeze plug on that side near the motor mount. Its not looking fun . No one around here wants to work on a big truck like mine. So I am stuck doing it myself. But thank you very much.
@@DreidMusicalX those freeze plugs are a lot easier to do with the manifold off. Not a fun job. Hopefully the block didn't crack internally. I would be amazed if you don't have at least one exhaust stud that's already broken. Usually it's the back two on both sides
@@AustinCoulson I am truly hoping its not. Believe it or not I had the same thing happen the year before when it has just water in it. I thought I had enough coolant in it this year and it popped the plug on the other side. I am wondering if it became loose from last year? The year before it was on the passenger side above the starter. Popped it back in and was just fine. This years it was the 2nd back from the front of engine. I just put some PBlaster on the bolts and going to hit them again in the morning with it again and slowly start working them out. Wish me luck, and thanks for your help. I know those bolts are going to be a pain and I have to take it slowly with them. Thanks!
I don’t know where you get off, calling yourself a professional you’re obviously not people like me have spent thousands of dollars in schooling to get educated to be taught properly that makes us professionals you would be which known as a Shadetree mechanic and there’s nothing wrong with that but unless you have your certifications, and you have your business license, you’re not a professional
Your daughter is adorable, and it's awesome that you let her help! I'm sure she will cherish memories of working with you, when she grows up!
Thanks. Great well thought out assemble. But your 3 year old absolutely stole the Show.
100% agree. She is a firecracker
Fantastic video, I’ve build many engines over 30 years yet I learned a lot from just this one. I like how you explain the physics behind some of that. I’m so grateful people like you take the time to make really high quality videos like this, I know it’s not easy - thanks ❤
I have a question I'm building my own 454 gene 6. How do I suppose to adjust the valve rockts I really appreciate if you give me a tip I am complete loss. So the last time built a engine but 30 years ago.?
You weren't worried about her over torqueing those bolts with that speed wrench, brave man. I think you should have touched up the valve covers with that hot rod black you painted the cab with. Love the video man.
Awesome little helper! Sorry to miss it when it came out, life got in the way.
Like the way you torque the rocker arms. I'm absolutely going to use that way
Very thorough explanation of the build. Great job once again.
Little Betty Boop is turning out to be a fantastic little helper.
awesome use of the pocket guide. wondered why you had it on the bench in the beginning. use mine for all kinds tasks
Brother, you just answered a burning question I had. I just replaced the timing chain on my Gen 5 454. I was stumped as to why the distributor rotor was at #6 cylinder when the timing gears were aligned. I was thinking it should have aligned to #1. That little bit of info just made my week!..Thanks for the vid!
It got me as well, I thought I was 180* off when I aligned it to the #1 cyl prior to disassembly. I had to have the machine shop explain it to me before I put it back together. Glad it helped you.
You need to elaborate on the cam timing more. The compression cycle is determined by the cam position, not the distributor. IOW TDC on the compression stroke doesn’t exist until you time the cam. Can you discuss the dot alignment better?
Awesome video. Thank you for all the information. I'm looking to rebuild our 454 vortec, my son and I. Again, thank you.
Love your attention to detail
I am impressed with your organizational abilities in not only planning but based in solid mechanical theory.
Never seen any of your videos I watched this one for a specific piece of information which I found almost instantly but watched the whole thing anyway. Love how methodical and precise you are and how you explain why you are doing things that way. And its awesome to see you getting the next generation of motorheads working early!
Great you have Betty on the job. Love seeing the kids getting "dirty" and learning a skill. She may follow another course but she's in there learning and time with them is so precious. Love you attention to deal but not pre painting the tin(s) and balancer is the only thing I disagree with. Nice work otherwise.
U aren't wrong. Not painting those ahead of time is my only regret on this build.
Austin, you are excellent. Great communication and parenting
Awesome video and build. Now the "but". That oil pan?!?! I have had marine pans rot out and even a 454 Suburban pan rot out and leak! On the marine pans I had the exterior powder coated, on the 454 I bought a new one... Dumping oil is not good. The rest of the build is awesome!
I did paint it afterwards with a rust inhibitor, but if I did it again I would install a new oil pan.
Great job explaining the build.
As always good work and I like the way you show your kid .like its just a thing and if you want lets do some stuff jump in with dad thats how i would do my kids .
Another great video! You have a great little helper, making lifetime memories...
Great video. This is the one I’ve been waiting for. Looking forward to the engine start up!
Thanks! I Just finished the first start video, it will be up Friday
Best part of the whole video, getting Betty involved!! Awesome! (Great video in all....)
Loving the content as always! Looking forward to how this truck turns out more and more with every video.
Great video really enjoyed it top job
Looks like a nice truck engine i would have to change the cam and really do alot to the heads
GREAT VIDEO!! Very informative and easy to follow. THANKS FOR POSTING!!
Missed opportunity, should have painted the oil pan and valve covers. Oh well your build not mine.... awesome job on the engine assembly.
100%. I didn't paint the valve covers because they were previously powder coated and chipped and it's a commercial truck, but I should have painted the oil pan before assembly just got rust protection.
very well done
Professional engine builder that has someone else build the short block.
Just jerking your chain a little. Good video of the rest of the build.
Great tutorial and content. I would have done a few things differently however it's not my build. Keep up the good work.
I'm curious if you have any details on what you would do differently? I am constantly surprised at how many different ways guys assemble motors.
Once again, very enjoyable video. Loved the assembly music and your little helper ! And the editing ! I'm surprised you didn't add the date and mileage ( since it's going back into the same truck) to your artwork !
I should have added the date and mileage. Didn't think about it
Yeah the music was great 👍
Yes, the iron heads are heavy, but they are tough as hell.
That is an AWESOME video! 😍
Thank you for such an in depth assembly video!
I love the how thorough you are in your videos. Usually I’m enamored at other tubers who just brush over and/or omit the complicated bits. Your details and knowledge you’re sharing is greatly appreciated. 👍🏽
Also, that pocket guide seems very useful. Where can I find one?
amzn.to/3sJ1Vxx
I love this guide, I use it all the time. I use the hardware section the most, but the friction loss in plumbing can be super helpful if you are trying to do balanced plumbing
Outstanding!
One "Betty-Pappa" = One "Ugga-Dugga"
Brilliant.
Nice job 😊
Mike here...great video, I'm German and am very peticular about assembly techniques...Gutentight..love it...
Any way recently purchased 2000 K3500 , 5 speed manual...7.4 ...flatbed...
Going to build a "Search and Rescue "
Tow and recovery truck...
My engine has 140,000 miles......
Still has life, and I will use it up accordingly .....
I would like to build a replacement engine for it...maybe reliability crossed with a small bit of "I built this one"...
I believe you can relate....
So after all this talk....
I need parts resources, perfered brands and where to aquire them...
Felpro gaskets , Clevite bearing and so on....
I know I'm asking a bit...but I'm grateful for what you have time for....
I taught my daughter like you did...
I buit a boat ,396 in a 1978 Sanger Picklefork Hydro...my daughter was there on the build and we enjoyed that boat together for over 20 + years....
Now I have grandchildren....I have projects for them...
Thank you, Mike
Sounds like you've got an awesome rig. 140k miles may be nothing on that engine. Mine was bad at 130k, but it was in a box truck and probably beaten to death and neglected. I have seen big blocks with 300k miles in perfect shape. Shoot me an email with any questions and ill help however I can: acthecarguy@gmail.com
@@AustinCoulson thanks for the reply.....Lord bless....
good info
Question, what kind of paint is used the top of short block and what is the purpose? Love the channel!
amzn.to/3INv5kM
The purpose is to allow the oil to flow faster back to the oil pan.
Torque spec on lifters and intake would have been nice
Mine is torn down now. (L-29) I see the L-21 has 2 holes by oil filter for oil cooler. Did you remove oil by pass valve from oil pump to oil filter pad. I see the other bypass valve at filter base. GM put check valve in main oil line to make cooler work.
This engine was in a commercial truck that had the heavy duty oil cooler with the quick connect fittings. One of those fittings has a built in check valve. I removed those fittings before sending in the block to be rebuilt and reinstalled them after installing the engine back in the truck.
Nice work! Were the original pistons flat tops?
Geez Louis, I give you a shout out and link to your channel and you don't even have the decency to go back through my old videos and watch them for hours until you get to the part where you can see my old pistons to know that they were in fact flat tops. Some friend you are. (Thx for the old distributor)
@@AustinCoulson you have other videos?
What's that pocket reference called that's awesome to have values and info like that.
amzn.to/3sJ1Vxx
Good video, few questions, why didn't you install a new cam and lifters if you had new cam bearings installed? Not sure it was good idea to paint the inside of the block it can flake off and possible oil blockages could occur, the rubber end gaskets will eventually leak you installed they will swell up and push out. 😉
That paint is called glyptal and it's designed for painting the interior of engines to allow the oil to flow easier over the cast surface. The only time I don't use the rubber end seals is when it's an aftermarket intake manifold. I didn't change the cam or lifters because they didn't need changing, they were in perfect shape.
Yea put my pick up tube on the same way. I've never welded one.
It gives me a sense there may be hope for me, when someone with your apparent and evident organization skill misplaces a tool. The number of tools of which I own duplicates due to misplacement is an embarrassment to me. Excellent video, thanks for watching.
I blame it on moving my shop twice in the last year. Luckily I now have that old distributor as a backup. I did buy the same pitman arm puller 3 times because I use it so rarely I forget I own one. Well, now I own 3.
Should have painted that stuff.
The oil pan will rust out.
Totally. Being from PHX, rust is not even on my radar but knowing the truck is headed to Chicago I painted the oil pan after it was put together to protect it.
ALL I want to know how hard it would be to swap in earlier high hp parts from the 70s and a large cam?
So, the camshaft positioning sprocket...is that standard to all genVI 454s? I bought mine disassembled so I dont know if I have that, need that, or have the option.
BTW, You're doing a great job dad!
Excellent video, where are you located?
She so cute awesome 😊
👍👍😎👍👍
Love your channel want you to do my motor
Is that glyptal under the intake and timing cover? Jafro used that stuff in a 4g63 build.
That is a great question. That was applied by the engine shop so I'll have to confirm with them. I'll have to check out the 4G63, which is one of my all time favorite engines.
How hard would it be to turn a modern big block like this to be making around 400 to 500 hp? Would it even be a good idea? Just been brainstorming recently.
Super easy. This engine is detuned by the computer to put out 290 hp and 400 tq. It could easily hit 400 hp at the crank with just a dyno tune and maybe a slight increase in fuel pressure. Of course, this is going in a commercial truck so I am keeping it stock. My buddy is currently working to get his big block to 1500 hp, you can check out his build at th-cam.com/users/LawrenceLTTolman
@@AustinCoulson Thanks for replying! I watched LT not too long ago, and was quite impressed by his 8.1 build. I kind of lost track of his stuff recently. I'll definitely give it a look.
@@markhenry5294 He has been working on a 4.8 to compare to the 8.1, but pretty soon he is going to go nuts on the 8.1. Should be pretty interesting
whats that orange paint that in the engine block
ive heard once that its a really slick paint and that oil will drain super fast and what not,not sure if thats true
just curious
That is Glyptal and that is exactly what it is for, it allows the oil to flow faster
If you were installing new lifters in this engine, would it matter which way youface the oil hole ?? I’m installed new lifters in my L29 and I’m not sure exactly which way the holes on the old lifters were facing
Those heads only weigh 74 pounds a piece...light weight 💪
Okay... so I was raised on cubic inches... not, what, cubic liters? What does a 7.4 Liter convert to in cubic inches. I'm pretty sure that the Ford 5.0 is about equivalent to the 302... but what do I really know. I've been watching your channel now for years... but somehow I missed this one, so when it came up in my suggested feed, I clicked on it right away. You'll probably address this, but I can't believe that YOU of all people put that oil pan on without cleaning it up a bit. Looks like it had lots of surface rust... and was looking pretty trashed. I guess I'll find out. (Love to see you include your kids as you teach them the ropes). Thanks Austin.
That is a Chevrolet big block 454. Specifically it is the last generation before changing to the 8.1liter (496ci?) LS based big block. I definitely should have at least scuffed and painted that oil pan but it was only surface rust and the inside was super clean so I just installed it. I also regret not cleaning up and painting the harmonic balancer to protect it from future corrosion because that part is absolutely impossible to source.
Didn't the long extension give an incorrect torque reading on the oil pan bolts?
That is a great question. So long as you keep the extension parallel to the bolt, the torque reading should be unchanged, but in practice you definitely should use no extension or the shortest extension required when torquing a bolt. Because these were very low torque on an oil pan and not something like a bearing cap I felt comfortable using the extension to made the job go quicker.
Did you verify if the internls where forged? I picked up a L21 from a 1999 Kodiak after reading that they had forged crank and pistons , after pulling it appart I found out that it had cast crank and pistons. Just curious what others have found.
I also have read multiple places about the forged internals. Before I brought the engine to the shop, the owner said it wouldn't have forged parts and the internals were the same on all GEN VI BBCs. I am not an engine expert so I couldn't tell for sure, but the crank had a single parting line and sure looked cast to me. Not sure about the pistons because I didn't remove them and they were replaced with .030 over hypereutectic ones. I would love to get my hands on a known forged one just to see the difference first hand.
29:19 --> ERROR! Fuel line gets tighten down with the stud, then the retaining clip goes onto the other nut to hold down the map sensor. If your map sensor ever goes out to lunch your going to struggle.
Damn, you're right. Good catch
@@AustinCoulson I used your video for reference, tore mine apart a few years ago. It helped. tks
Can you link the parts that you bought?
Can I put this 7.4 LSx engine in my 84 c4 corvette if so how much is the cost
What is the brand of that teflon thread sealant
I have a Gen 1v 454 with very Verylow mile ck numbers 85 year all 4bolt and 4barrel and Dist asheet metal complete 4Sale
How much did it cost to have the bottom End rebuilt? I have the same engine and want to get it built or build it my self so its faster. 😂. Im planning on building a rock crawler soon and i want to out the 454 in it
To have the short block built, it was 1800$. That included the machining, assembly, all the bearings and new pistons. They reused the crank, rods and cam as they were in good shape
Has anyone had this issue when priming , only the drivers side gets oil to rockers? No idea why the motor was machined and cleaned at a shop makes zero sense to me. Any help would be great
I have seen only one side prime if I am using a lower powered drill. It seems to need a lot of power to get the oil pressure high enough to flow through all the rockers
QUESTION: are the fasteners in this generation 7.4 already all metric or still a mix of SAE and metric?
They are still a mix on this 7.4. I think they finally switched everything over for the next gen 8.1, but I am not positive
@@AustinCoulson Many thanks for chiming-in with that info. Much appreciated.
I recently saw another similar build video of the 8.1 and there it was mentioned that the 8.1 was all metric.
Is that the cheap light weight harbor frgt.engine stand. I have one too,, and I worried about engine being too heavy withe heads
I'm nervous every time I put a big block on this cheap little stand. But it's held up for like 20 years.
At 8:37 I need the camshaft positioning sprocket. I have a 91 454 and can't find that part on summit. Are is that just for vortec engines
I didn't think they used those in 1991. I think I misspoke and it's actually a crankshaft timing sprocket.
How bad is it if you didnt mark the lifters before taking them out, and going to reuse them , not a new build just replaced a cylinder.
Depends on who you ask. Nearly every expert engine builder I know would say lifter location makes no difference, they toss them in a container of oil prior to install and pull them at random for reinstall (same for the rockers and pushrods). I know some amateur builders who lose their marbles if they aren't put back exactly in the same spot. Being hydraulic they are self adjusting so the only real concern IMHO would be the slight wear on the top of the lifter not matching and potentially having a slight increase in wear in the future on the lifters or guides. Personally I aim to reinstall in the same spot, but if it's not practical or even possible I don't worry about it.
I have the 7.4l V8 Vortex engine in my K3500 1998 Chevy Silvarado king cab dually 4x4 and I had a question for you.
The last freeze we had we got below -9F and my free plug popped out on the drivers side 2nd plug back from the front of the engine. There is a senor next to it that screws into the block, can you tell me what that is? Coolant temperature? My freezplug is sitting right behind it that fell out and I have no clue because n book I have tells me. Can you? Im also trying to find a way to get it back in since there is so little room to do so. Any ideas? Any help would be really helpful.
amzn.to/3VanRQR
That would be your knock sensor. Those can be a pain to get to, but I use an open end wrench to install them
@@AustinCoulson Ok thank you so much! Its looking like I also might have to take off my exhaust manifold to get to the freeze plug on that side near the motor mount. Its not looking fun . No one around here wants to work on a big truck like mine. So I am stuck doing it myself. But thank you very much.
@@DreidMusicalX those freeze plugs are a lot easier to do with the manifold off. Not a fun job. Hopefully the block didn't crack internally. I would be amazed if you don't have at least one exhaust stud that's already broken. Usually it's the back two on both sides
@@AustinCoulson I am truly hoping its not. Believe it or not I had the same thing happen the year before when it has just water in it. I thought I had enough coolant in it this year and it popped the plug on the other side. I am wondering if it became loose from last year? The year before it was on the passenger side above the starter. Popped it back in and was just fine. This years it was the 2nd back from the front of engine.
I just put some PBlaster on the bolts and going to hit them again in the morning with it again and slowly start working them out. Wish me luck, and thanks for your help. I know those bolts are going to be a pain and I have to take it slowly with them. Thanks!
That's a beautiful short block, too bad you're putting all that junk on it.
I don’t know where you get off, calling yourself a professional you’re obviously not people like me have spent thousands of dollars in schooling to get educated to be taught properly that makes us professionals you would be which known as a Shadetree mechanic and there’s nothing wrong with that but unless you have your certifications, and you have your business license, you’re not a professional
I never said I didn't have any certifications. I got my first ASE Cert over 22 years ago.
She will always love you for cherish time with her love when she says your My papi 🥲