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How to Protect Gemstones from Heat while Soldering!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ส.ค. 2024
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cbilton.creato... In this video I show you the simple way us professional jewellers work on rings set with heat sensitive stones.
You do not need any expensive or fancy special heat proof substances!
This technique is tried and tested many times over many years and has never let me down.
Working on jewellery its essential you have at least some knowledge of precious gemstones and how they may react to heat, acid, their hardness, ultrasonicing etc to help avoid doing any accidental damage. An expensive tanzanite for example is at risk of fracture in the ultrasonic but also a sudden temperature change. Removing it from a hot ultrasonic then immediately washing it off under a cold water tap should never be done!
The channel has potential to grow in to a great archive of jewellers knowledge with your help.
With patrons support I will be able to offer far more information than I am currently able to.
With over 2 decades of knowledge gained in the jewellery trade working with some of the best diamond mounters in the UK I can train practitioners of jewellery making, up to and far beyond the skill level found in High Street jewellers workshops.
I have been lucky enough to have been taught by actual Bond Street shop model makers and my ambition is to share what I have learned through out my career to as many people as possible.
My vehicle to do this is the Diamond Mounter TH-cam channel and now after nearly 1 year of uploading video guides, its time to take it up a level.
My ambition is to be able to make instructional videos with not just silver, but gold and platinum also. Some proper jewellers soldering equipment will enable me to create much more special pieces too! This will open up a whole new world of information I have to share.
There are many specific methods and techniques used for the different precious metals and knowledge about gemstones I can teach that will never enter my videos unless I am actually working with them.
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Thank you,
C.Bilton
With this channel I will share with you the methods and techniques I have learned over the previous 23 years as a professional Jeweller. I specialise in high end bespoke pieces made the old fashioned way by hand.
I wish to document everything I know and make accessible to everyone rare skills and techniques only usually taught in high security jewellers workshops.
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www.cbiltonjewellery.com
I JUST used your technique, to solder a break in a 14K yellow gold ring, set with three oval opals. The ring is OLD, and I was only supposed to size it down to a 4 and 3/4 for our customer. Well, when I curved the shank to downsize it, after cutting a bit of gold out of the back, a large crack appeared, fairly close to the opals. I could have had a buddy of mine use his laser to fix it, but wanted to see if I could do it with your suggestions.
Guess what? The wet paper towel and a paper clip WORKED! None of the opals were damaged, and I was able to repair the cracked shank completely. Praise the Lord, and THANK YOU for the video!
Win!
Wow. Very interesting. Never seen this technique before. For most rings I just dip the thing in my boric acid/denatured alcohol mix, clamp the stone part directly in the wider part of my crosslock tweezers in a third hand base, shank part sticking up. Burn off the alcohol and solder from the inside of shank with the flame pointing up away from the stone area. Hit the spot you are soldering hard and fast, and don't let the heat linger on the shank. The tweezers make a massive heat sink. Little trick my first boss showed me.
For more sensitive pieces or pearl rings, I use some damp bead blaster sand in a flat lid or bottom part of a soda can. Bury the stone part deep in the damp sand with the shank sticking up. A couple of the guys used a little cup of water as a stone protector. I never got the hang of that one, steam would periodically blow out my torch. Sometimes did that with the damp sand too. The commercially available heat protective gel works fairly well, but is hard to apply evenly and I don't like it. Another friend uses baking soda for a heat sink.
We figured out I probably sized somewhere between 35 and 50 rings a day for the first 10 years I worked there. On the low end that comes to about 87,000 ring sizings in 10 years. Never mind the chain, bracelet, and earring repairs, and custom waxes/castings I did too... Been at this for 39 years now...
Wow ring sizing master! Yes I used to do the burnt off boric acid way but changed to the pot of water way over time. The steam does cause problems tho sometimes.
Valuable information. Pls don't forget to make the oval shaped ring
I found a bit of car on fiber works protecting stones of all types. It's a fire retardant material. I cut a strip off so a little over the sides of the stone or gem sides. I have also used. Fiberglass tape works well to. The fiberglass tape can be found in electrical where electrician supplies are stored.
This looks fab! What if the soldering needs to be right next to the setting?
I just suspend the ring ring in a little metal pot filled with water. Seems easier
Hmmm good idea
This is rather genius
I find water draws too much heat away from the metal.
@@saxon12qa Yeah you do have to blast it, especially if it’s a thicker shank. Otherwise I used that thermogel stuff
I've done this before as well, but found that you need to create a bit of a "shield" with some scrap titanium or steel to prevent the water from leaping up and cooling your join area.
In my workplace we use a mixture of sand and water to cover the stone, with that said if we know we are working with diamonds we will flux them
The sand can also provide a way to hold the sand up while the water cools
great tips thank you
i must admit, i torched a tanzi with this method......
That was Interesting
Hi are you able to offer me some advice ? my wife has a set of drop earrings on a chain with peridots , quarts and amethyst stones are set into the chain, our dog chewed up one of these earrings so i thought i would have a go at making a replacement as the stones arent expensive and i can but a similar length of 18ct yellow gold chain . My question is how can i set the stones , it looks like a small wire or bar is inserted into the stones and the end is soldered to the chain, how do i solder the ends of a small bar ,wire ( probably .04 mm thick given the ends are next to the stones . everything i have seen shows rings that you can suspend in water or you wrap absorbent paper round the stone but the stones on this occasion are literally less than 1mm away from the solder joints, any help would be appreciated. thanks dan
Hello from brazil! Do you think I can do this with a simple box chain bracelet with a 9mm gemstone (sky blue topaz) ? Thks for yr help!
Yes but only in gold. Silver will be a problem
Do you reckon it would work with turquoise as well?
If the metal is gold and the turq isnt massive then Im sure it could work. If the ring is silver though its very risky
@@DiamondMounter It is silver I cannot afford to work in gold. 😂 honestly its getting expensive to even work in silver...lol