And btw, I'd like you (and Keith Rucker) to know that your long series of videos has given me the confidence to go out and buy my own lathe. You gave me the capability of shaping metal, and enabled me to make stuff that I could only dream about before. This is a beautiful gift, and I want to thank you for this ! Stefan, from Belgium.
The weight and gravity of sincerity abounds in your efforts. These explanations, and all that you take the time to show has the power to deepen understanding, spark creativity, and perhaps even ultimately change some lives out there. That means a lot in the world, and it makes you rock in the world. So rock on, Adam, and thank you.
yeah he's got a natural teaching method to his ways. Not to say I would enjoy annoying him as an apprentice all day. No nonsense dude. Don't wanna keep him from his work
Keith Fenner just did a great series on the importance of a correct fit on tapers and now you explained how to achieve the perfect thread. Those are two of the biggest skills to get down as a machinist to produce quality work. Between you two there is a huge wealth of knowledge. Thanks for the great videos Adam!
Thanks so much! I have made threads maybe 20 times in the last three years and have always played it safe by waiting for my number to come around. One job I had needed threads .080 away from a taper so I had to cut them at 35 rpm to avoid a crash*. It was excruciatingly painful waiting for the dial to come around to my number. You explained this perfectly and I just tried it on my lathe. What a time saver. * I later learned a trick from Joe Pie that flips the threading tool upside down and runs the machine in reverse away from the work to avoid mishaps. Between you, Joe Pie, This Old Tony, and Blondihacks, my skills have improve 3 fold. Thanks again!
I enjoyed your treading discussion . I have not got a trading dial. on my lathe & i do not have A led screw. the lath Utilises the rack . i can cut a 6 to 26 TPI thread. yes but i have had to Bild am interface to enable the cutting of a third. i did this By making use of my drive shaft that is driven in two speeds. with a key way up its lenth . To enable a dale the rotating & sliding thread now can be slid up and down the drive shaft . now terns a siding thread & i can engage it in the same place evry time . & using the cross slide adds a fine cut on evry pass . i have a lot of fun sowing others , I have retiard now .but i kept the old lathe & sold of the new one's I remember on time having a machinist come to my shop for an interview. he In fact he made a grat pint of being able to cut thread's on a lathe s i ask him if he wuld cut one for me on one of my lathes . i set him up on my old lath to cut an inch whit. thread. as interesting as it was . i wanted for the question? where is the half nut & idea? & i rapidity all there get on with it's already set up . LOL [ Yes i know Not nice of me ]. when i started , I had never used a lathe . & at school never got the opatunity to learn . their was always some one that had be deluged above all others . that why most never got to cut thread's today . so when i interview workers i wuld tees-out the training at school . often they wear privileged tips . & well educated to but the devil in me couldn't resist taking them down a peg . So i would set them to cut a thread on my old lathe. I must say not meny succeeded ,But for one . & i must say .i set him to work . they wuld say i cant ues this it as know led screw i would tack over a cut the tread with no led screw, & pointed out when they can cut a third on that lath they have a job . Id as com bac any time & have a go only one ever did & i gave him a job he was with me for years after . but when i retired a sold up I kept the lath to this day Its getting a bit sloppy these day's , need me to give some TLC . But still cut, threads with out a lead screw.
I only subscribed to your channel a few months ago, I've really been enjoying everything you've been doing. I just finished up the welding table series about 10 minutes ago. I really enjoyed watching that series and seeing how you came up with design solutions for it. I'm no machinist myself, I'm a mechanic. The only thing I've ever machined is brake rotors and drums. Having that technical knowledge makes it fun to watch your videos and see you make all these things. Keep the videos coming, cause I'm gonna keep watching!
This community is awesome. Thank you for teaching. I just took a manual machining class. You guys taught me well enough that I cut 1/2-20 RH and 1/4-28LH external WITHOUT additional instruction.
I have no machine tools, but still love to watch these videos. It's just fantastic to see how stuff is done in this trade. Thanks for the great instruction!
Nice attitude towards people that are willing to learn. Video,s like this make learning easier for allot of people. Thank you for the video.. best regards..
This video was spot on for me! I had been threading all wrong. Thanks for the info. I checked your information against my lathe and you were spot on. Your way has made it faster for me. Only had a lathe for a few months and been watching your videos for several years now. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge for people like me to learn. You are a great teacher!!
I have been a toolmaker for most of my working life and i can confirm that this gentleman has extensive and genuine knowledge of metal work. I can recall in the 60s during my apprenticeship in England toolmakers were not generous with imparting knowledge. I admire this man. David
Always good to get a refresher course on threading. I hadn't cut a thread in twenty years, and when I needed to do it again, I had to relearn the process, so thanks for rebooting my failing memory.
You just answered a questions that I have thought about for over 40 years. The thirty degree compound was a bit of a revelation. I have only seen a ninety degree approach. The half nut explanation was perfect in every way. The day was not wasted. Thank you Sir!
Really appreciate the video. Having never cut a thread in my life I watched this video, then went and cut a m36 4mm pitch thread onto my disc axle. Thanks
I wish I had been able to see this years ago, unlike yourself I had nobody to teach me I learned myself. when I was considering buying a new lathe one with a gearbox was quite a lot more money so I bought one that just had change wheels thinking I would never screw cut in the lathe and most of my work was small thread stuff (B.A. and constant pitch series threads) which I could cut with a die, it was my biggest regret. but like you say the more you practice the more it makes sense, I am not as fast as you but reasonably fluent, but for me its a hobby not my job. but great stuff Adam you do a great job, thanks Bill.
Cut my first single point last weekend for a new stud on my qctp stud. Read the process off how to run a lathe, did most of it wrong, chipped the cutter and finished it with a die. Then i started watching videos on all the things i did wrong. This was really helpful and I was making the mistake of feeding straight in, next time i will use this method.
Now we need a video explaining the major and minor diameter of a thread and how to determine your tool depth when feeding in at a 30 degree angle. Also the mechanics of backing off the cross slide at the end of the cut, and advancing the cross slide, for a proper depth of cut. This would compete the threading course. Awesome job Adam.
As a rule of thumb remember that the standard screw thread is a 60 deg angle. thus the thread can be thought of as a 60, 60, 60 equilateral triangle. The depth of the thread along the 30 deg side is the same as the pitch on a single thread. So for a 12TPI thread, 1/12 = 0.083 or 83 mils. This is the approximate depth along the compound angle. If you feed straight in, the depth is the pitch times the cos 30 or 0.866 so the approximate depth will be 0.866 * 0.083 = 0.072. If your tool has a radius then you must compensate by computing where a sharp point would be and offsetting the compound by that amount.
I understand the trigonometry involved. In theory, it does give you an approximate depth. In practical, everyday thread cutting its not quite so simple, as most people who have cut threads know. Which is why every body typically grabs a known "good nut" to test fit the thread. But my question, wasn't about that specifically, it was more about the practical way of getting a good thread every time. Including how he sets up his dial gauges, the relief cut at the end, so he doesn't crash his tool into the shoulder, etc... Does he look up a specific thread in the machinists handbook, or does he just have a simple way. A video is worth a million words. :)
No. Nothing about threads ever is. I too would like to hear from others on how they do this. I cut a lot of custom threads, like 2"-20. I use the trig and when I get close I use an eye loupe to examine them. I can also use a thread gauge, again under magnification to see if the form is about right. Then I cut the mating thread to fit. Both the machinery handbook and many online calculators exist that help verify. I cut all my threads straight in, unless it is really tough stuff and just use the handwheel dials. My lathe indicate diameter in the crossfeed so I have to double the thread depth. I do not use a dashboard indicator, I trust the handwheels. For clearances I just use the 1A, 2A 3A (or B) clearances to determine major and root as indicated for the pitch thread I am cutting, usually I give about 5 mils or so if it is not critical.
Thank you Adam. I'm not a machinist but really enjoy your videos. Threading has always seemed to be magic to me, you did a excellent job of explaining how the threading dial and half nuts work. Thanks again.
Thanks, Adam, Great intro to threading. I learned by watching Mr Pete's videos and practiced by cutting "air threads"... nothing in the chuck, nothing in the tool holder. That let me get a good feel for the sequence of watching the dial, engaging the half nuts, disengaging and backing off the cross slide, etc, over and over. Then when I did start cutting something, I had a good feel of the procedure. Your video will get someone started off good, too. Thanks for remembering the beginners. Joe
As a beginner I would like to congratulate you on the way you explain things in a way that even the most inexperienced of us can understand. A true teacher thank you
hi adam i'm not a machinist so theading was always a mystery to me.i never knew how you guys could engage the tool in the same place every time. now i understand. you cleared up the mystery for me.i enjoy all your videos machining or cooking or shop talk.i love them all.please keep up the great videos.
Holy Hannah, Adam, that was absolutely the best video on basic threading I have ever watched, period. No disrespect to the other masters of the craft. Chock-full of useful information, tips and tricks, and tightly edited. I loved it enough to head over to my friends lathe and give it a try.
Thank You Adam. That is an excellent explanation f how the threading dial work. I am looking forward to experimenting in the shop to find my comfort zone. I am in school now learning how to use the manual machine's, am loving it. Always turning people on to your channel. You all provide great information. As always keep up the great video's
ps I wish I could use my dial, but imperial screw on my lathe and I cut 99percent metric threads so have to leave it in gear, or use the other method of taking it out and putting it back in the same number by stopping the machine after taking it out. hassle! :(
This was a really good piece of instruction, Adam. I like the way you broke this down into chunks and then proved your methods. Nicely done, sir. Best wishes, Tom Z
I've never really worked with metal much at all, coming from a cabinet making background. I really enjoy your videos and precision of your work, thank you for sharing your skills and knowledge.
I have just dialed into this.......haaahaaa..................I LOVE YOU!!!! Big Boy..........thank you soooo much.....you de-stressed me about thread cutting "absolutely"....all the best.
Excellent video! Best demo on threading dial engagement I have seen. I would like to add that I like to give myself a little safety zone when returning to the start just incase I miss the number so I have time to disengage the half nut, back up a little and start over. For me, being a hobbyist I have a box full of different size threaded nuts and bolts that I keep just for practice and randomly grab one from time to time and thread an ID or OD piece of alum. stock and see how I do on matching up the fit on what I picked out. It's a great skill, speed and confidence builder especially when you have to do a critical job, and it's fun. Thanks for all your videos. Ed K. Cleve. Oh.
Eddie Kawecki Good point Eddie, I too like to sometimes give myself a little error room in front of the work piece. I have messed up a few times and cut into the first thread or two.
Hey man thanks for this video. You made this come across easy for someone like me who is a beginner and just got their first (old used southbend) lathe and doesn’t know anything about it but wants to learn. Everybody makes mistakes learning and doing and you giving your take on how to learn makes trying it more comfortable for a guy like me.
Adam that was a great job explaining threading I can't thank you enough for the details that you put in as always I try to encourage people to explain why they do what they do so a person can understand it better
Thanks for the great video Adam, clear and easy to follow. As an apprentice we were told to not disengage the half nuts when cutting metric threads but to back the tool out and reverse the tool back to the start and take another cut. Maybe a peculiarly of our Colchester lathes? We used this to move onto Acme, square, buttress and tapered threads
Great explanation Adam, your method using the compound angle to cut the threads works a treat, the tool doesn't chatter and leaves a really nice finish every time I've done it. One of our lathes at work has 3 different gears that can be swapped out on the indicator dial to help with the even, half and fractional pitches, but someone lost them so yeah
Adam great video, I love coming to youtube for these types of how-to and educational content. You do an awesome job explaining, I'm still learning my little lathe, this video take much of the magic out this and I feel more comfortable trying myself. ~ thanks.
Adam, that was a superb demo on the engagement, the best example yet, I don't think we could cover threading too much, we all have just a little different twist to the gig, and each has to find their comfort zone. I would say it's one of the most common fears to a newbie , most of the time the finale to their turning project. The split screen, good add also! ;{)-------
Keith Fenner Thanks Keith! Yep it seems to be one of the most popular subject for lathe work for our viewers. I enjoy threading and I like sharing what I have learned. Thanks for the comments!
Thanks Adam. I have complimented and thanked Keith Fenner, Mr. Pete and some others, I am not much for typing i guess but i have been enjoying AND learning from your videos and benefiting from your work for just as long (or longer)a time as any of these other top notch TH-cam creators, and I think i should have said something positive long before now. (Sorry for that.) You are a Super Star in your field- machining AND Video presentation. Also many of your stills are exeptional, some even awesome. You are walking the talk as my other mentor KEITH FENNER SAYS. OOPs- see just dont feel like retyping it, lol. There is plenty of negativity out there and credit is due you so i thought i would take the time to get er done! ha ha. I F I Ever get me a lathe or mill,or both I WILL be making the effort to make my parts and repairs to have that obvious skilled machinist look so evident in your creations. Thanks- Ox tools, Keith Rucker and all the others who may have stumbled upon upon this long winded letter. Good Job Adam! - Keith Kelly
Thank you so much Adam. I have done my fair share of metal work (precision and welding), but I haven't spent much time in front of a metal lathe. All of the things you show us (for me at least) has been very helpful. I'll need to practice for myself, but watching you work shows how much pride you put into your work. Thank you again for all of your teachings, and video. Can't wait for the next.
Thanks for the lesson, Adam. After working with your machines as long as you have, it's all seems second nature for you. After hearing some of the mechanics behind it, what you are doing and why makes som much more sense.
Hey Adam, I'm not a machinist but i want to learn the skill but I just have the twisted brain that understands this but this is the best explanation I have seen, take care man.
Taking note is the best advice! I keep small note pads in all my vehicles. Not all pens are equal most fade over time. Nothing move frustrating then taking notes with a throw away pen to come back months later to find empty pages in a project book. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Adam. I have to correct a statement you make at 2:29. With a compound set at 29 1/2 degrees you are still using both sides of the threading tool. The majority of the material being removed is bias to the left side, but both are still cutting. Even at 30 degrees, both sides of the tool are still cutting, but the surface contact of the right side of the tool is limited to the depth of the cut. As for straight in threading, success and good surface finishes can easily be achieved on rigid machines with good tooling.
I think you would agree that we should be having a profitable discussion here and I hope you don't mind if I challenge your statement. Joe, there is no way that you would be cutting on the right side of the thread tool point if you are feeding 29'1/2 degrees or 30 degrees in with the compound. Unless you are talking about "spring".....Dave
Hi Dave. I figured this would raise an eyebrow or 2. Lets look at this as a geometry problem. if the compound was set at zero and dialed in, the tool would be cutting 50/50 on the left and right sides of the tip. This is an inarguable fact. I hope you agree. As the compound moves closer to the 29 1/2 degree setting, you are still within the 30 degree profile of the right side of the tool. Also a fact. This means, by simple geometry, the cut load is bias about 95% to the left side and the right side contact is not parallel to the tool surface, but slightly skewed. None the less, still making contact. If you have any high end engineering software, model it out and simulate the cut as I did before you reply. The 29 1/2 degree setting is not for clearance, its for load. I welcome your reply. Then we can discuss the tool position and chip geometry for a 30 degree compound. JP
That depends on what side of 30 your talking about. The way my mind reads this anyways. 1/2 a degree clearance vs 1/2 a degree of cutting (load). I'm at 1/2 degree before 30 so in theory, I'm moving away from the right side of the thread slightly. I will say however that sometimes I do get some light cutting on the right side but not because of the angle, it has to to with engagement of the half nuts and lead screw. Sometimes I purposely put slight drag on the carriage handwheel to clean up the right side of the thread, another trick of the trade so to speak. I've been doing this long enough and cut enough threads everyday to feel confident in what I'm saying here. I see the op day in and day out.
OK, so @ 29 1/2 degrees, 1/2 degree is still hanging out in the cut making the old theory of "keeping the side of the tool from rubbing" is bunk. It's more to keep the right side of the vee cleaned up with a slight chip load. But how does feeding a 30 degree tool (lined up) in at 30 degrees produce a chip load?....Dave
Hi Dave. The chip load at 30 degrees is limited to the depth of the cut. The right side chip is local to just the tip.Very small, but present. The trailing edge of the tool should be co-planer to the 'V' and not cutting. Thanks for the reply..
Adam, great explanation on threading and I will watch again and again. You could/can be a lecturer. As my friend says about professorial types 'They can explain the chemistry of the pickles in the jar, but they can't get the lid off'. I think that says it all about life. Thanks for sharing big chap. Kindest regards. Joe
Hey Adam, great video. As always, I really enjoyed watching it. If anyone is interested in the theory an maths behind the thread dial, here is my try on it: It is basically all about gear ratios, meaning the number of revolutions of the chuck, the lead screw and the threading dial relative to each other. your lead screw and your dial act like a worm gear. it has a wheel with 16 teeth meshing with the lead screw, giving it a 16:1 ratio, which means that for every 16 revolutions of the leadscrew, the face of the dial turns once. the next thing that is interesting is the gear ratio of your drive train, which is the pitch you want to cut, divided by the pitch of your lead screw. for a 12 tpi thread that would be 12:4, or reduced 3:1, meaning that for every three revolutions of the chuck, the screw turns once and it also means, that your half nut can be engaged at any revolution of the leadscrew because the threads will line up. if you now divide the nominator of the gear ratio of the drive train by the gear ratio of the threading dial, you get the amount of turns of the dial until you can engage the half nut again. in this example it would be 1/16 of a turn, which is why you can engage on any numbers, lines and in between. all divisible threads will always have a 1 as a denominator, so they all will line up every 16th of a turn of the dial. for an even pitch, the denominator will be 2 (for example the ratio for 10 tpi reduces to 5:2, meaning that after two revolutions of the lead screw, the tread will line up again), so the thread will line up every 2/16 or 1/8 of a turn of the dial. in odd threads, the denominator will be 4 (11 tpi -> 11:4), so after 4/16 or 1/4 of a turn on the dial, you can engage again. half fractional threads will have 8 as a denominator (11 1/2 tpi -> 23:8), so you can engage after every 8/16 or 1/2 of a revolution of the dial. and last but not least, for quarter fractional threads it is 16 (5 3/4 tpi -> 23:16), so that the threads only line up after 16/16 or a full turn of the dial. i hope that helps some of you in understanding how the dial works. best regards dennis
Thank you so much for your clear explanation. I have an old French Lathe Hernault Batignolles, My dial indicator have marks on it but just one number (12) I have to figure it at by myself I guess. The lathe is functional and complete. Works great. I can do metric and standard. I wish I could send you pictures. Bernard in Brittany.
Thank you Adam. I’m still new at threading but man this help me more than any book could you made it very superb I understand now wha I couldn’t in that book I wanted thank you very much. I also want lean on threading something like on my Bridgeport like the threaded screw for my X’s side
And btw, I'd like you (and Keith Rucker) to know that your long series of videos has given me the confidence to go out and buy my own lathe. You gave me the capability of shaping metal, and enabled me to make stuff that I could only dream about before. This is a beautiful gift, and I want to thank you for this ! Stefan, from Belgium.
The weight and gravity of sincerity abounds in your efforts. These explanations, and all that you take the time to show has the power to deepen understanding, spark creativity, and perhaps even ultimately change some lives out there. That means a lot in the world, and it makes you rock in the world. So rock on, Adam, and thank you.
Dam... I almost cried. Is it weird to ask for an encore in the youtube comments?
Thanks Quig. I'll be signing autographs in the lobby after the show. :)
yeah he's got a natural teaching method to his ways.
Not to say I would enjoy annoying him as an apprentice all day. No nonsense dude. Don't wanna keep him from his work
Keith Fenner just did a great series on the importance of a correct fit on tapers and now you explained how to achieve the perfect thread. Those are two of the biggest skills to get down as a machinist to produce quality work. Between you two there is a huge wealth of knowledge. Thanks for the great videos Adam!
The best threading video that is on the internet. Thanks for the great info.
Eric Johnson awesome! Thank you!
Thanks so much! I have made threads maybe 20 times in the last three years and have always played it safe by waiting for my number to come around. One job I had needed threads .080 away from a taper so I had to cut them at 35 rpm to avoid a crash*. It was excruciatingly painful waiting for the dial to come around to my number. You explained this perfectly and I just tried it on my lathe. What a time saver.
* I later learned a trick from Joe Pie that flips the threading tool upside down and runs the machine in reverse away from the work to avoid mishaps.
Between you, Joe Pie, This Old Tony, and Blondihacks, my skills have improve 3 fold.
Thanks again!
I enjoyed your treading discussion . I have not got a trading dial. on my lathe & i do not have A led screw. the lath Utilises the rack . i can cut a 6 to 26 TPI thread. yes but i have had to Bild am interface to enable the cutting of a third. i did this By making use of my drive shaft that is driven in two speeds. with a key way up its lenth . To enable a dale the rotating & sliding thread now can be slid up and down the drive shaft . now terns a siding thread & i can engage it in the same place evry time . & using the cross slide adds a fine cut on evry pass . i have a lot of fun sowing others , I have retiard now .but i kept the old lathe & sold of the new one's I remember on time having a machinist come to my shop for an interview. he In fact he made a grat pint of being able to cut thread's on a lathe s i ask him if he wuld cut one for me on one of my lathes . i set him up on my old lath to cut an inch whit. thread. as interesting as it was . i wanted for the question? where is the half nut & idea? & i rapidity all there get on with it's already set up . LOL [ Yes i know Not nice of me ]. when i started , I had never used a lathe . & at school never got the opatunity to learn . their was always some one that had be deluged above all others . that why most never got to cut thread's today . so when i interview workers i wuld tees-out the training at school . often they wear privileged tips . & well educated to but the devil in me couldn't resist taking them down a peg . So i would set them to cut a thread on my old lathe. I must say not meny succeeded ,But for one . & i must say .i set him to work . they wuld say i cant ues this it as know led screw i would tack over a cut the tread with no led screw, & pointed out when they can cut a third on that lath they have a job . Id as com bac any time & have a go only one ever did & i gave him a job he was with me for years after . but when i retired a sold up I kept the lath to this day Its getting a bit sloppy these day's , need me to give some TLC . But still cut, threads with out a lead screw.
and...another phenomenal educational video. knocked it out of the park brother
Steve Antal Thank you!
Best '' hands on '' threading demo of the relationship of the leadscrew to the thread dial. Thanks Adam, first rate!
I only subscribed to your channel a few months ago, I've really been enjoying everything you've been doing. I just finished up the welding table series about 10 minutes ago. I really enjoyed watching that series and seeing how you came up with design solutions for it. I'm no machinist myself, I'm a mechanic. The only thing I've ever machined is brake rotors and drums. Having that technical knowledge makes it fun to watch your videos and see you make all these things. Keep the videos coming, cause I'm gonna keep watching!
John thanks John! Glad your enjoying the channel
John thanks John! Glad your enjoying the channel
That is the clearest explanation of threading and when to engage the half nut i've ever heard. Thanks a ton Adam that was awesome!
Best and easiest to understand threading lesson I have seen. Thanks big fella.
You are fantastic at breaking this machine work down to simple steps without sounding condecending. Love the channel.
This community is awesome. Thank you for teaching. I just took a manual machining class. You guys taught me well enough that I cut 1/2-20 RH and 1/4-28LH external WITHOUT additional instruction.
Mike De La Mater great to hear!
Adam your videos have reached a new level for the last 2-3 months, thanks for that.
I have no machine tools, but still love to watch these videos. It's just fantastic to see how stuff is done in this trade. Thanks for the great instruction!
Nice attitude towards people that are willing to learn. Video,s like this make learning easier for allot of people. Thank you for the video.. best regards..
Very useful. I am not a machinist and have never seen a lathe up close. But I watch you and Keith Fenner and really enjoy machining.
This video was spot on for me! I had been threading all wrong. Thanks for the info. I checked your information against my lathe and you were spot on. Your way has made it faster for me. Only had a lathe for a few months and been watching your videos for several years now. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge for people like me to learn. You are a great teacher!!
That's great! Glad the video helped.
I have been a toolmaker for most of my working life and i can confirm that this gentleman has extensive and genuine knowledge of metal work. I can recall in the 60s during my apprenticeship in England toolmakers were not generous with imparting knowledge. I admire this man. David
Always good to get a refresher course on threading. I hadn't cut a thread in twenty years, and when I needed to do it again, I had to relearn the process, so thanks for rebooting my failing memory.
You just answered a questions that I have thought about for over 40 years. The thirty degree compound was a bit of a revelation. I have only seen a ninety degree approach. The half nut explanation was perfect in every way. The day was not wasted. Thank you Sir!
This was truly a great video......Yes, others have made videos on the subject, but this one best crystallizes the concepts involved....
Really appreciate the video. Having never cut a thread in my life I watched this video, then went and cut a m36 4mm pitch thread onto my disc axle. Thanks
I wish I had
been able to see this years ago, unlike yourself I had nobody to teach me I learned myself. when I was considering buying a new lathe one with a gearbox was quite a lot more money so I bought one that just had change wheels thinking I would never screw cut in the lathe and most of my work was small thread stuff (B.A. and constant pitch series threads) which I could cut with a die, it was my biggest regret. but like you say the more you practice the more it makes sense, I am not as fast as you but reasonably fluent, but for me its a hobby not my job. but great stuff Adam you do a great job, thanks
Bill.
Cut my first single point last weekend for a new stud on my qctp stud. Read the process off how to run a lathe, did most of it wrong, chipped the cutter and finished it with a die. Then i started watching videos on all the things i did wrong. This was really helpful and I was making the mistake of feeding straight in, next time i will use this method.
Now we need a video explaining the major and minor diameter of a thread and how to determine your tool depth when feeding in at a 30 degree angle. Also the mechanics of backing off the cross slide at the end of the cut, and advancing the cross slide, for a proper depth of cut. This would compete the threading course. Awesome job Adam.
As a rule of thumb remember that the standard screw thread is a 60 deg angle. thus the thread can be thought of as a 60, 60, 60 equilateral triangle. The depth of the thread along the 30 deg side is the same as the pitch on a single thread. So for a 12TPI thread, 1/12 = 0.083 or 83 mils. This is the approximate depth along the compound angle. If you feed straight in, the depth is the pitch times the cos 30 or 0.866 so the approximate depth will be 0.866 * 0.083 = 0.072. If your tool has a radius then you must compensate by computing where a sharp point would be and offsetting the compound by that amount.
I understand the trigonometry involved. In theory, it does give you an approximate depth. In practical, everyday thread cutting its not quite so simple, as most people who have cut threads know. Which is why every body typically grabs a known "good nut" to test fit the thread. But my question, wasn't about that specifically, it was more about the practical way of getting a good thread every time. Including how he sets up his dial gauges, the relief cut at the end, so he doesn't crash his tool into the shoulder, etc... Does he look up a specific thread in the machinists handbook, or does he just have a simple way. A video is worth a million words. :)
No. Nothing about threads ever is. I too would like to hear from others on how they do this. I cut a lot of custom threads, like 2"-20. I use the trig and when I get close I use an eye loupe to examine them. I can also use a thread gauge, again under magnification to see if the form is about right. Then I cut the mating thread to fit. Both the machinery handbook and many online calculators exist that help verify. I cut all my threads straight in, unless it is really tough stuff and just use the handwheel dials. My lathe indicate diameter in the crossfeed so I have to double the thread depth. I do not use a dashboard indicator, I trust the handwheels. For clearances I just use the 1A, 2A 3A (or B) clearances to determine major and root as indicated for the pitch thread I am cutting, usually I give about 5 mils or so if it is not critical.
Thank you Adam. I'm not a machinist but really enjoy your videos. Threading has always seemed to be magic to me, you did a excellent job of explaining how the threading dial and half nuts work. Thanks again.
Hi Adam, That was your best instruction video you have made to date.
Cheers, Les
Thanks, Adam,
Great intro to threading.
I learned by watching Mr Pete's videos and practiced by cutting "air threads"... nothing in the chuck, nothing in the tool holder. That let me get a good feel for the sequence of watching the dial, engaging the half nuts, disengaging and backing off the cross slide, etc, over and over. Then when I did start cutting something, I had a good feel of the procedure.
Your video will get someone started off good, too.
Thanks for remembering the beginners.
Joe
As a beginner I would like to congratulate you on the way you explain things in a way that even the most inexperienced of us can understand. A true teacher thank you
hi adam i'm not a machinist so theading was always a mystery to me.i never knew how you guys
could engage the tool in the same place every time. now i understand. you cleared up the mystery
for me.i enjoy all your videos machining or cooking or shop talk.i love them all.please keep up the
great videos.
Great video...... It really helped me put on understanding how to thread...... Thanks for all the info and hard work you put into your videos
Holy Hannah, Adam, that was absolutely the best video on basic threading I have ever watched, period. No disrespect to the other masters of the craft. Chock-full of useful information, tips and tricks, and tightly edited. I loved it enough to head over to my friends lathe and give it a try.
Thank You Adam. That is an excellent explanation f how the threading dial work. I am looking forward to experimenting in the shop to find my comfort zone.
I am in school now learning how to use the manual machine's, am loving it. Always turning people on to your channel. You all provide great information. As always keep up the great video's
I was one person who asked about the angled compound, as I always used straight! thanks for the excellent explanation! I'll give it ago tomorrow!
ps I wish I could use my dial, but imperial screw on my lathe and I cut 99percent metric threads so have to leave it in gear, or use the other method of taking it out and putting it back in the same number by stopping the machine after taking it out. hassle! :(
GREAT video Adam. You did a superb job of explaining all of that in way that is easy to understand and apply. Thanks.
This was a really good piece of instruction, Adam. I like the way you broke this down into chunks and then proved your methods. Nicely done, sir.
Best wishes,
Tom Z
Thanks Tom
I've never really worked with metal much at all, coming from a cabinet making background. I really enjoy your videos and precision of your work, thank you for sharing your skills and knowledge.
I had a little knowledge on threading but now I know just how little. Thanks and I'll be saving this video for future use for sure, Greg.
Excellent Presentation ! Best I've ever seen in all my years . Thanks Adam .
Best video so far on explaining how threatening busyness works!!!!!
Not threatening, stupid phone, threading I meant!!
Great video... great walking through the different threading. Thanks, as always!
I have just dialed into this.......haaahaaa..................I LOVE YOU!!!! Big Boy..........thank you soooo much.....you de-stressed me about thread cutting "absolutely"....all the best.
A great lecture, Adam. You have a real gift for imparting your knowledge to others.
Excellent video! Best demo on threading dial engagement I have seen. I would like to add that I like to give myself a little safety zone when returning to the start just incase I miss the number so I have time to disengage the half nut, back up a little and start over. For me, being a hobbyist I have a box full of different size threaded nuts and bolts that I keep just for practice and randomly grab one from time to time and thread an ID or OD piece of alum. stock and see how I do on matching up the fit on what I picked out. It's a great skill, speed and confidence builder especially when you have to do a critical job, and it's fun. Thanks for all your videos. Ed K. Cleve. Oh.
Eddie Kawecki Good point Eddie, I too like to sometimes give myself a little error room in front of the work piece. I have messed up a few times and cut into the first thread or two.
Excellent Video. That answered a number of questions I have had regarding the relationship between the numbers and lines.
this is the best explanation i have seen, book, video or youtube.
Adam that is one of the best tutorial videos on threads for bigginers I have seen... I couldn't have explained it better myself. Nice job
You make a good instructor. Thanks for the tutorial.
thank you, it's late at night, needed to cut a thread. did not remember some stuff. this was a great refresher. thanks again.
Great video, just restored an old Atlas-Craftsman lathe and trying to learn techniques. This was very instructional, please do more like this!
We enjoyed this part of SNS 144 .. I really understand now how threading works . My lathe is small but same deal , Thanks Adam !
Adam has become one with his machines. He's a Natural.
Hey man thanks for this video. You made this come across easy for someone like me who is a beginner and just got their first (old used southbend) lathe and doesn’t know anything about it but wants to learn. Everybody makes mistakes learning and doing and you giving your take on how to learn makes trying it more comfortable for a guy like me.
Adam that was a great job explaining threading I can't thank you enough for the details that you put in as always I try to encourage people to explain why they do what they do so a person can understand it better
Thanks for the great video Adam, clear and easy to follow. As an apprentice we were told to not disengage the half nuts when cutting metric threads but to back the tool out and reverse the tool back to the start and take another cut. Maybe a peculiarly of our Colchester lathes? We used this to move onto Acme, square, buttress and tapered threads
Andrew Wilson I have shown some metric threading on the channel, some not long ago.
Great explanation Adam, your method using the compound angle to cut the threads works a treat, the tool doesn't chatter and leaves a really nice finish every time I've done it. One of our lathes at work has 3 different gears that can be swapped out on the indicator dial to help with the even, half and fractional pitches, but someone lost them so yeah
Thank you for that very informative video . I have learned something . I always enjoy your work. Thank you
Adam great video, I love coming to youtube for these types of how-to and educational content. You do an awesome job explaining, I'm still learning my little lathe, this video take much of the magic out this and I feel more comfortable trying myself. ~ thanks.
Thanks KO
Very well demonstrated Adam the best one I've seen on TH-cam:)
Excellent no-frills clear explanation of what to use when.
Adam, that was a superb demo on the engagement, the best example yet, I don't think we could cover threading too much, we all have just a little different twist to the gig, and each has to find their comfort zone. I would say it's one of the most common fears to a newbie , most of the time the finale to their turning project. The split screen, good add also! ;{)-------
Keith Fenner Thanks Keith! Yep it seems to be one of the most popular subject for lathe work for our viewers. I enjoy threading and I like sharing what I have learned. Thanks for the comments!
I realize I'm kind of randomly asking but does anyone know a good site to stream newly released movies online ?
@Ira Ralph Ehh I use flixportal. Just google after it :P -major
@Major Gustavo thanks, I went there and it seems like they got a lot of movies there :) I appreciate it !
@Ira Ralph you are welcome xD
Excellent demonstration, Thanks alot. Cleared up many of the questions I've had about single point threading
Great video. I have cut lots and lots of threads on a lathe. That said, I learned a few things. Goes to prove you never quit learning.
grntitan1 We are always learning.
I work also as a machinist in germany and i have to say, that this is a really good explanation!
Thank you for such an amazing video. I am on day two of learning how to use a lathe and I have been learning a tremendous amount from your videos.
Thanks Adam. I have complimented and thanked Keith Fenner, Mr. Pete and some others, I am not much for typing i guess but i have been enjoying AND learning from your videos and benefiting from your work for just as long (or longer)a time as any of these other top notch TH-cam creators, and I think i should have said something positive long before now. (Sorry for that.) You are a Super Star in your field- machining AND Video presentation. Also many of your stills are exeptional, some even awesome. You are walking the talk as my other mentor KEITH FENNER SAYS. OOPs- see just dont feel like retyping it, lol.
There is plenty of negativity out there and credit is due you so i thought i would take the time to get er done! ha ha. I F I Ever get me a lathe or mill,or both I WILL be making the effort to make my parts and repairs to have that obvious skilled machinist look so evident in your creations. Thanks- Ox tools, Keith Rucker and all the others who may have stumbled upon upon this long winded letter.
Good Job Adam! - Keith Kelly
You are a good and generous instructor ! Tks
Thanks for this valuable info and the time you put into explaining the proper methods.
Absolutely Brilliant! I'm not a machinist so I've often wondered how threading worked.
use of the thread indicator is really just the tip of the iceberg... a great place to start, though.
Really needed this explanation. Will practice at work shortly. Might well keep me in a job some day when i am asked to cut a thread. Thanks
Thank you so much Adam. I have done my fair share of metal work (precision and welding), but I haven't spent much time in front of a metal lathe. All of the things you show us (for me at least) has been very helpful. I'll need to practice for myself, but watching you work shows how much pride you put into your work. Thank you again for all of your teachings, and video. Can't wait for the next.
Like everything else in maching, inserts have come a long way from when I started back in 74. Well presented, as usual.
Thanks for the lesson, Adam. After working with your machines as long as you have, it's all seems second nature for you. After hearing some of the mechanics behind it, what you are doing and why makes som much more sense.
Thanks Adam . I'm one of your viewers that's trying to learn this stuff. I love this stuff and hope to have my on shop built on my property soon.
Thanks again Adam, I always learn something from you and really enjoy your vids. They make my retirement hobby a lot funner.
Great video Adam. Very well explained. I really appreciate it.
Top top top content this week Adam. Thank you for taking the time, for all 3 vids.
Great information and easily understandable method of explaining.
Hey Adam, I'm not a machinist but i want to learn the skill but I just have the twisted brain that understands this but this is the best explanation I have seen, take care man.
Taking note is the best advice! I keep small note pads in all my vehicles. Not all pens are equal most fade over time. Nothing move frustrating then taking notes with a throw away pen to come back months later to find empty pages in a project book. Thanks for sharing.
Yes it's good practice to keep a note pad around all the time, not that a practice it the way I should! LOL
From a beginner, excellent threading video Adam - thanks!
Thanks Adam, learned a lot more about the dial
Hi Adam. I have to correct a statement you make at 2:29. With a compound set at 29 1/2 degrees you are still using both sides of the threading tool. The majority of the material being removed is bias to the left side, but both are still cutting. Even at 30 degrees, both sides of the tool are still cutting, but the surface contact of the right side of the tool is limited to the depth of the cut. As for straight in threading, success and good surface finishes can easily be achieved on rigid machines with good tooling.
I think you would agree that we should be having a profitable discussion here and I hope you don't mind if I challenge your statement. Joe, there is no way that you would be cutting on the right side of the thread tool point if you are feeding 29'1/2 degrees or 30 degrees in with the compound. Unless you are talking about "spring".....Dave
Hi Dave. I figured this would raise an eyebrow or 2. Lets look at this as a geometry problem. if the compound was set at zero and dialed in, the tool would be cutting 50/50 on the left and right sides of the tip. This is an inarguable fact. I hope you agree. As the compound moves closer to the 29 1/2 degree setting, you are still within the 30 degree profile of the right side of the tool. Also a fact. This means, by simple geometry, the cut load is bias about 95% to the left side and the right side contact is not parallel to the tool surface, but slightly skewed. None the less, still making contact. If you have any high end engineering software, model it out and simulate the cut as I did before you reply. The 29 1/2 degree setting is not for clearance, its for load. I welcome your reply. Then we can discuss the tool position and chip geometry for a 30 degree compound. JP
That depends on what side of 30 your talking about. The way my mind reads this anyways. 1/2 a degree clearance vs 1/2 a degree of cutting (load). I'm at 1/2 degree before 30 so in theory, I'm moving away from the right side of the thread slightly. I will say however that sometimes I do get some light cutting on the right side but not because of the angle, it has to to with engagement of the half nuts and lead screw. Sometimes I purposely put slight drag on the carriage handwheel to clean up the right side of the thread, another trick of the trade so to speak.
I've been doing this long enough and cut enough threads everyday to feel confident in what I'm saying here. I see the op day in and day out.
OK, so @ 29 1/2 degrees, 1/2 degree is still hanging out in the cut making the old theory of "keeping the side of the tool from rubbing" is bunk. It's more to keep the right side of the vee cleaned up with a slight chip load. But how does feeding a 30 degree tool (lined up) in at 30 degrees produce a chip load?....Dave
Hi Dave. The chip load at 30 degrees is limited to the depth of the cut. The right side chip is local to just the tip.Very small, but present. The trailing edge of the tool should be co-planer to the 'V' and not cutting. Thanks for the reply..
Adam, great explanation on threading and I will watch again and again. You could/can be a lecturer. As my friend says about professorial types 'They can explain the chemistry of the pickles in the jar, but they can't get the lid off'. I think that says it all about life. Thanks for sharing big chap. Kindest regards. Joe
This was easily the best threading video I have seen. Thanks man this channel has been awesome for getting into machining!
Excellent ... excellent video! Many thanks!
Hey Adam i absolutely found this video to be very informative! Thanks
Great video man! Very detailed, probably even better than my teacher taught me back in the day!
Adam thanks for taking the time to answer my questions. You are THE MAN. Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family. Great job on the explanation.
Thanks Adam, that was explained so elegantly, you are such a great teacher, Dr. Abom ;-)
Thank you Adam, for taking the time and effort of producing this segment. This has answered several questions I had on threading.
thanks Adam that really helps. I haven't thought about the division of 4 engage any where good video I am a hobbyist really like your videos
Great video, I really enjoy learning your techniques. I hope to see more videos on how to use machining equipment and what they are capable of.
Awesome video. Thank you for taking the time to demystify this. You had great teachers.
Very educational Vdeo, and great editing.
excellent video Adam ,thanks !
Hey Adam, great video. As always, I really enjoyed watching it.
If anyone is interested in the theory an maths behind the thread dial, here is my try on it:
It is basically all about gear ratios, meaning the number of revolutions of the chuck, the lead screw and the threading dial relative to each other. your lead screw and your dial act like a worm gear. it has a wheel with 16 teeth meshing with the lead screw, giving it a 16:1 ratio, which means that for every 16 revolutions of the leadscrew, the face of the dial turns once.
the next thing that is interesting is the gear ratio of your drive train, which is the pitch you want to cut, divided by the pitch of your lead screw. for a 12 tpi thread that would be 12:4, or reduced 3:1, meaning that for every three revolutions of the chuck, the screw turns once and it also means, that your half nut can be engaged at any revolution of the leadscrew because the threads will line up. if you now divide the nominator of the gear ratio of the drive train by the gear ratio of the threading dial, you get the amount of turns of the dial until you can engage the half nut again. in this example it would be 1/16 of a turn, which is why you can engage on any numbers, lines and in between.
all divisible threads will always have a 1 as a denominator, so they all will line up every 16th of a turn of the dial.
for an even pitch, the denominator will be 2 (for example the ratio for 10 tpi reduces to 5:2, meaning that after two revolutions of the lead screw, the tread will line up again), so the thread will line up every 2/16 or 1/8 of a turn of the dial.
in odd threads, the denominator will be 4 (11 tpi -> 11:4), so after 4/16 or 1/4 of a turn on the dial, you can engage again.
half fractional threads will have 8 as a denominator (11 1/2 tpi -> 23:8), so you can engage after every 8/16 or 1/2 of a revolution of the dial.
and last but not least, for quarter fractional threads it is 16 (5 3/4 tpi -> 23:16), so that the threads only line up after 16/16 or a full turn of the dial.
i hope that helps some of you in understanding how the dial works.
best regards
dennis
Thank you so much for your clear explanation. I have an old French Lathe Hernault Batignolles, My dial indicator have marks on it but just one number (12) I have to figure it at by myself I guess. The lathe is functional and complete. Works great. I can do metric and standard. I wish I could send you pictures. Bernard in Brittany.
Thank you Adam. I’m still new at threading but man this help me more than any book could you made it very superb I understand now wha I couldn’t in that book I wanted thank you very much. I also want lean on threading something like on my Bridgeport like the threaded screw for my X’s side