2:10 You apparently don't know that two stroke engines have existed for a lot longer than two stroke oil has. The manual for our first boat engine called for 30wt motor oil and that's all it got for many many years of trouble free operation. Our second boat's engine manual recommended two stroke oil, but said that you could use motor oil.
@@keeganhache6667 Not optimal, but not as bad as you described. You said something about it causing damage in only two tank fulls, which are tiny fuel tanks, and our engine ran through several hundred gallons of gas with motor oil. There's a possibility that modern motor oil is worse than old when burnt in a 2 stroke, but I can't imagine that it's hundreds of times worse. And altho it's not a fair comparison, I run used motor oil as fuel in my diesel powered van.
@@DonziGT230 yea diesels can run strait oil no problem 12v Cummins do it all the time and old Volvo’s boat motors are so much different since their using the ocean’s water and that’s constantly going through it cylinder temps stay much cooler compared to us riders on land. Going from a cheap oil to fully synthetic I see a 25 to 30 degree difference in temps
@@keeganhache6667 I've run cheap oil and full synthetic in my Powerstroke with no noticeable change in temp. And it shouldn't change if everything's working properly.
Nice presentation. I use Lucas, and if you ever use Methanol, it blends with Methanol, also. Some people have mentioned Kawasaki 2 stroke, but I haven't tried it.
@@JeffWalters-ln1esDo you think a proper running 47mm Mineralli is faster than a Phantom85? "My bikes" in PR says his stock non ported $200 Mineralli engine is faster than a stock Phantom85. I'm not saying he's a liar but find it hard to believe a 47mm can have more power than 52mm if both have similar ports, compression ratios & exhaust diameters.
From What I've Read 🤔......One big difference between full synthetic and conventional oil 🛢 is the molecular structure of full synthetic is more slippery/less friction. An analogy often used to compare the two is. Full synthetic oil molecules are like perfectly round marbles that metal is rolling is on 🆚 conventional oil is like metal rolling on irregular out of round/rock shaped molecules. Both provide lube but full syn is slipperyier/less friction. With 2 stroke oil, there's a big difference between castor based 2s oil made from the castor bean and conventional & full synthetic fossil 2s oils....Both have pros & cons but one major benefit of castor based 2 stroke oil is. The hotter it gets, the thicker it gets, which provides protection to an expen$ive overheating engine, helping to save it from damage 🆚 fossil 2s oil that get thinner with heat & then burn away, once too hot, leaving the engine with no lube/metal on metal damage. Years ago most pros in any type of 2 stroke air cooled engine racing 🏁 used a castor based oil to protect their expensive racing engines (along with cyl head air scoops) The downside of the castor oil is that it burns dirty & gumms up engines faster 🆚 cleaner burning non castor oils. But a gummed up engine isn't much issue on a small, easy to disassemble engine. Some brands like Klotz have a mix of full synthetic fossil oil with addded castor..... If I had an expensive air cooled 2 stroke or one known for overheating issues. Or if I planned to do long distance hot summer, full throttle riding. I'd use either a full castor or a blend like Klotz. My walmart sells both- super tech full synthetic 2s. Along with the conventional/non syn 2s for cheap... When it comes to full synthetic 2s oil. I do think the more expensive brands are better but only slightly better. I don't think a $20 brand is going to protect 4x better than the $5 brand. I've been meaning to order some brand of full castor 2s oil to keep on hand & to do comparisons with. If I had a Phantom85 or Mineralli build I'd use a castor oil along with temp gauge. End of long comment.
@keeganhache6667 lol Can't believe I wrote all that... Too many energy drinks 😂 I was regurgitating information from a few articles I read...I never got to ride 2 strokes as a kid. So it was only recently that I learned the difference between castor 2 stroke oil & fossil non castor....Years ago before full synthetic oil. I bet the castor oil was better than fossil
I think the concept of running 16.1 or 20.1 on break in is the extra oil helps carry away the material of the rings seating into the cylinder away and the extra oil helps aid in compression
Yeah for a sled I would run some good oil because in the winter it’s really hard on 2 strokes because the cold air makes it run lean if the tune is not changed
@@keeganhache6667 no thats not what i mean they make oild especially for snomobile its a little thinner its for race motors im thinking of using that in a motorized bicycle
I ran 40:1 synthetic for first msybe 10 to 20 miles then did more research and it seemed 16:1 conventional was way to go.... But now it seems both are wrong....do you think its possibly too late and the rings will never seat correctly? I probably ran 1 full gallon so far...not one tank but one full gallon
How about Phantom 85 engine ? Cuz i tried 40:1 it didn’t even start during break in. So i changed to 20:1 and she starts right up. Then after that 32:1
Ty for sharing, it is very confusing hearing so many different instructions. Your explanations make sense
Glad I could help
Nice video brother, always well educated.
Haha yessir
2:10 You apparently don't know that two stroke engines have existed for a lot longer than two stroke oil has. The manual for our first boat engine called for 30wt motor oil and that's all it got for many many years of trouble free operation. Our second boat's engine manual recommended two stroke oil, but said that you could use motor oil.
Doesn’t mean it’s optimal or a good idea back in those days they weren’t going for longevity or performance modern oils are just better my guy
@@keeganhache6667 Not optimal, but not as bad as you described. You said something about it causing damage in only two tank fulls, which are tiny fuel tanks, and our engine ran through several hundred gallons of gas with motor oil.
There's a possibility that modern motor oil is worse than old when burnt in a 2 stroke, but I can't imagine that it's hundreds of times worse. And altho it's not a fair comparison, I run used motor oil as fuel in my diesel powered van.
@@DonziGT230 yea diesels can run strait oil no problem 12v Cummins do it all the time and old Volvo’s boat motors are so much different since their using the ocean’s water and that’s constantly going through it cylinder temps stay much cooler compared to us riders on land. Going from a cheap oil to fully synthetic I see a 25 to 30 degree difference in temps
@@keeganhache6667 I've run cheap oil and full synthetic in my Powerstroke with no noticeable change in temp. And it shouldn't change if everything's working properly.
@@DonziGT230 project farm noticed a 20 to 25 degree difference on his testing with Amsoil vs super tech
Nice presentation. I use Lucas, and if you ever use Methanol, it blends with Methanol, also. Some people have mentioned Kawasaki 2 stroke, but I haven't tried it.
Lucid is good stuff
All I run is Lucas 32:1 cradle to grave over 20 yrs and never any issues
Cool
@@keeganhache6667 all I run r minerallis so
@@JeffWalters-ln1es I have Minnarelli’s too
@@keeganhache6667 I know ya do I have 4 currently
@@JeffWalters-ln1esDo you think a proper running 47mm Mineralli is faster than a Phantom85? "My bikes" in PR says his stock non ported $200 Mineralli engine is faster than a stock Phantom85. I'm not saying he's a liar but find it hard to believe a 47mm can have more power than 52mm if both have similar ports, compression ratios & exhaust diameters.
From What I've Read 🤔......One big difference between full synthetic and conventional oil 🛢 is the molecular structure of full synthetic is more slippery/less friction. An analogy often used to compare the two is. Full synthetic oil molecules are like perfectly round marbles that metal is rolling is on 🆚 conventional oil is like metal rolling on irregular out of round/rock shaped molecules. Both provide lube but full syn is slipperyier/less friction.
With 2 stroke oil, there's a big difference between castor based 2s oil made from the castor bean and conventional & full synthetic fossil 2s oils....Both have pros & cons but one major benefit of castor based 2 stroke oil is. The hotter it gets, the thicker it gets, which provides protection to an expen$ive overheating engine, helping to save it from damage 🆚 fossil 2s oil that get thinner with heat & then burn away, once too hot, leaving the engine with no lube/metal on metal damage. Years ago most pros in any type of 2 stroke air cooled engine racing 🏁 used a castor based oil to protect their expensive racing engines (along with cyl head air scoops) The downside of the castor oil is that it burns dirty & gumms up engines faster 🆚 cleaner burning non castor oils. But a gummed up engine isn't much issue on a small, easy to disassemble engine. Some brands like Klotz have a mix of full synthetic fossil oil with addded castor..... If I had an expensive air cooled 2 stroke or one known for overheating issues. Or if I planned to do long distance hot summer, full throttle riding. I'd use either a full castor or a blend like Klotz. My walmart sells both- super tech full synthetic 2s. Along with the conventional/non syn 2s for cheap... When it comes to full synthetic 2s oil. I do think the more expensive brands are better but only slightly better. I don't think a $20 brand is going to protect 4x better than the $5 brand. I've been meaning to order some brand of full castor 2s oil to keep on hand & to do comparisons with.
If I had a Phantom85 or Mineralli build I'd use a castor oil along with temp gauge.
End of long comment.
I’ve heard about it too that’s why you can run higher quality oils at leaner mix’s
@keeganhache6667 lol Can't believe I wrote all that... Too many energy drinks 😂 I was regurgitating information from a few articles I read...I never got to ride 2 strokes as a kid. So it was only recently that I learned the difference between castor 2 stroke oil & fossil non castor....Years ago before full synthetic oil. I bet the castor oil was better than fossil
I've had good experience with valvoline 2t oil, zero carbon buildup and its pretty good quality and it burns good, you should try it out
Good to know!
What about four stroke engines
Run brand name break in oil then go a full synthetic
I think the concept of running 16.1 or 20.1 on break in is the extra oil helps carry away the material of the rings seating into the cylinder away and the extra oil helps aid in compression
So that is where my Dawn Powerwash went. 😂
Haha this is true
I did 32:1 on break in and i run 40:1 on everyday riding i use a marine oil for mix im thinking of switching to like a racing snomobile oil
Yeah for a sled I would run some good oil because in the winter it’s really hard on 2 strokes because the cold air makes it run lean if the tune is not changed
@@keeganhache6667 no thats not what i mean they make oild especially for snomobile its a little thinner its for race motors im thinking of using that in a motorized bicycle
I ran 40:1 synthetic for first msybe 10 to 20 miles then did more research and it seemed 16:1 conventional was way to go....
But now it seems both are wrong....do you think its possibly too late and the rings will never seat correctly? I probably ran 1 full gallon so far...not one tank but one full gallon
How about Phantom 85 engine ? Cuz i tried 40:1 it didn’t even start during break in. So i changed to 20:1 and she starts right up. Then after that 32:1
Oil has nothing to do with start up but since it’s a phantom and runs hot stick with that 32:1