You guys are cool! :-) As the frame and fork of this beach cruiser are not to strongly built, watch for tiny marks of material distress. Especially the fork might not take the relatively high torque forever. For better front wheel traction, just mount a front basket and put your regular stuff in there. That already helps. You could also mount the battery somewhere in the front for putting some weight at the front wheel.
There is a main problem with high power front wheel motors: The engine will put a *lot* of torque against the fork's drop-outs- if it snaps your front wheel can fall off, and a face plant at 30+ mph can cause serious injury.
Cruisers typically have rear drum brakes that work by reverse pedaling. It works fine at leisurely speeds (under 10mph) but would be inadequate for emergency stops at 30+mph
Which is probably why he should have pedal assist. It also conserves the battery by increasing the range. He's basically gone the kid route and hurriedly neglected all the safety aspects. Otherwise great video. I'm building a mid mount bafang SSHD 1000watt for my light weight 24 speed mountain bike later on in the year myself. Can't wait.
S.S Toor hydraulic disc aren't necessary I rode with mechanicals and they were fine but I do use rear motor and a 180mm front discbrake now I use hydraulic and mostly use regenerative brake
I think you should fit the cut off breaks. On a motor bike you have a clutch leaver on the left. So in an emergency you pull the right leaver to put the front break on, a foot peddled operates the rear break and the left clutch leaver disconnects the power form the wheels. In an emergency, If you don't fit these safety breaks, you may find the motor continuing to push against your breaks, this could prove painful and expensive, if not fatal.
do you have a torque arm on the wheel if not get one because it stops the wheel slacking off because of the power it eventualy loosens please add one for your own sake ty
The brakes are not redundant. They should change the controller from motor mode to generator mode. Instead of just turning the motor off, it treats the motor like a generator and puts a load on it to charge the battery. That's what regenerative braking is.
Joseph Freitas its on ebay rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?toolid=10026&campid=5338305933&customid=wideskyscraper&type=3&ipn=psmain&kwid=902099&kw=cb&mtid=824&icep_vectorid=229466&icep_item=142458027561&icep_ff3=2
@@robspear03 Not dangerous for under 1000W motors. Like not at all. Over a 1000W you start getting into wheelspin and fork issues, and yeah, that's dangerous.
The biggest problem with these kits is the battery price - crazy money. Though I guess if one is using it as an alternative to public transport or a car it soon pays for itself.
It cost me a little over $1,250 to build my ebike, 48v 13ah 1000w and it only top a speed no more than 27mph, it sucks but it helps me move around my neighborhood since I am legally disabled and cannot walk more than a quarter of a mile in distance ever since I went for three majore lower back surgeries in regards of the spinal fusion surgery. Well, at the end of the day, is way better to have an ebike than having to have to spend lots of money on gas every week!!!!
@glyn hodges ?? Mine 20watt hours has been spot on. I have a bbs02 mid drive my work is 2.5milles away and I use 55 to 60 watt hours with no pedalling involved.
How's the bike holding up? I have a rusty old beach cruiser too I want to fix up and make into an e-bike. Probably will get a less powerful motor and battery though.
This bike is almost perfect. It was very easy to assemble. th-cam.com/users/postUgkx2YFGCCEkXKgqCOH-7vlvgb4L4hg4IrXI The fit was great as well. I am 5'11" and 160 lbs with a longer torso and rather shorter legs, and 55cm is a perfect fit. Every component seems to be pretty decent and durable except the rear wheel. It was a bit lob-sided and also the freewheel component is either missing a ball bearing or under lubricated, which prevents the wheel from rotating freely. Because of that, it requires more pedaling and also climbing hills a lot harder than expected. Other than the back wheel, I like everything else about it. Affordable and well-built.** UPDATE **It turns out the sound was caused by the tight chain tension. Once I loosen it up by moving the backwheel a tad bit closer to the crankset, the sound went away.
Wonder what the range would be with no pedaling at a speed of about 7 mph. I need range, not speed. Want to ride on a local bike path along a canal. Probably not so good. a factory built electric bike with a 20 mile no pedal range is about $2500-$3000.
Gerald Scott at that low speed you would use about 10 watt hours per mile maybe 15 with hill. Probably no significant regeneration from braking. So a simple front hub system is all you need and it would have potential for normal speeds too
I think you left out the most important part," the battery" can you go over the battery, step by step and tell us where you got it from, show how to connect the wires and so on slowly, step by step. please.
Don't need rubber strip in the wheel. Because the wheel spokes nuts are countersunk. It's impossible to get a flat tyre from that. Using masking tape it will only cause damage to the inner tube. When it rains the tyre will slip around the rim and split the valve. Because the rim can't grip the inner tube. Rubber to metal has 10 times more grip than masking tape. The brake cut of switch are not for just cutting off power for no reason. It users generate charger to stop the bike and chargers the battery. giving better braking ability. The brakes & battery will last longer.... Pedal assist is a really amazing feature to have on your ebike. It's what makes a ebike a ebike. Without it it's just a motorbike. The police can take it away from you. If it has no pedal assist
This is NOT the way to go about building an ebike, firstly don't get a powerful front wheel unless you are able to reinforce it, these powerful motors are known to rip themselves off the front forks if not well attached causing a 40mph face plant, a rear wheel is almost always the way to go if your motor is over 350w as it will guarantee your wheel will actually stay attached to the bike when riding. Secondly you NEED to attach some good brakes, preferably disc or hydraulic brakes when riding at those speeds as normal V brakes were never designed to stop a bike from 40mph but as long as you've got a decent set of them on there then they will suffice. Lastly check read the product description when selecting your parts, the battery CLEARLY STATES not to be used with a 1000w motor yet you've decided to use it with a 1000w motor anyway, a child would understand that yet somehow you can't? A few other things such as not attaching the pedal assist sensors and the motor cut off brakes is just really childish and lazy and are included in the kit for a reason. This is clearly someone who doesn't have a clue about what their doing and just heard the buzzwords of 40MPH SPEED and 1000W POWER so decided to buy it and then brag to the internet about it. DO NOT follow this guide as it is dangerous and you'd be taking your life into your hands by following it, there is a proper way to do this kind of thing for the same amount of money and not much skill required, there are professionals that build ebikes for a living and you'd be much better off looking at how they do it rather than this 10 year old.
I find buying from China is cheap but more than 50% of the time electronics have problems with loose solder connections or assembly problems. They get paid to do it fast and don't test for quality.
"Holy Crap" .. that first ride could have been his last ride. How anyone can consider doing speeds of a moped with little or no safety equipment, let alone no brakes is beyond me. A bystander could have steped out of their gateway, or opened a car door and he wouldn't have had a clue. Another candidate for Darwin's Award. I dare say there will be those looking at ebikes with a mind for its additional 'risk per capita'.
As I'm sure he knows this bike is illegal. 1000w is too much, the brakes MUST disengage the motor. Check ur local laws as well as what the US Congress has passed. Or ur own laws if you live in a different country.
![แฉกลโกงงานวัด 2024 [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.106 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/taC5dpP3HXA/mqdefault.jpg)
You guys are cool! :-) As the frame and fork of this beach cruiser are not to strongly built, watch for tiny marks of material distress. Especially the fork might not take the relatively high torque forever. For better front wheel traction, just mount a front basket and put your regular stuff in there. That already helps. You could also mount the battery somewhere in the front for putting some weight at the front wheel.
Thank you for teaching this property ! Have the same kit , mixed up wires . Just needed articulate points with no stupid music! GREAT JOB!
There is a main problem with high power front wheel motors: The engine will put a *lot* of torque against the fork's drop-outs- if it snaps your front wheel can fall off, and a face plant at 30+ mph can cause serious injury.
how does he brake? that bike doesn't even have v brakes, let alone hydraulic discs, which are needed for high speeds.
Cruisers typically have rear drum brakes that work by reverse pedaling. It works fine at leisurely speeds (under 10mph) but would be inadequate for emergency stops at 30+mph
Which is probably why he should have pedal assist. It also conserves the battery by increasing the range. He's basically gone the kid route and hurriedly neglected all the safety aspects. Otherwise great video. I'm building a mid mount bafang SSHD 1000watt for my light weight 24 speed mountain bike later on in the year myself. Can't wait.
Agreed install ur pedal assist and the breaks FOR GODS SAKE
S.S Toor hydraulic disc aren't necessary I rode with mechanicals and they were fine but I do use rear motor and a 180mm front discbrake now I use hydraulic and mostly use regenerative brake
You've got a pretty great Dad
I think you should fit the cut off breaks. On a motor bike you have a clutch leaver on the left. So in an emergency you pull the right leaver to put the front break on, a foot peddled operates the rear break and the left clutch leaver disconnects the power form the wheels.
In an emergency, If you don't fit these safety breaks, you may find the motor continuing to push against your breaks, this could prove painful and expensive, if not fatal.
Hey maybe you already said but I didn't catch it, what's the range and charge time for the battery?
do you have a torque arm on the wheel if not get one because it stops the wheel slacking off because of the power it eventualy loosens please add one for your own sake ty
Would it be possible to power the wheel with a halo bolt
depending on your controller those brake switches engage regen braking. not just turn the motor off
Like the video Don't See too many with a beach cruiser so big UPS to you
Best video yet on motor and battery I hope it all connects easy
The brakes are not redundant. They should change the controller from motor mode to generator mode. Instead of just turning the motor off, it treats the motor like a generator and puts a load on it to charge the battery. That's what regenerative braking is.
HOW would someone do that?
Lard British
what do you mean can you elaborate I'll be checking this out to make one eventually hopefully soon
No front brake, or any handbrake, is asking for trouble at that speed. Coaster brake will wear in a minute and not work when you need it.
So my.understanding the battery is rated for 500w but the front wheel is 1000w right ??
Could u tell us how to find each part. Like a list of everything with websites to buy from.
Charlie Winkleman the cord the goes to battery where can I buy one from or can I use a old PC cord
Can this be done on any MT bike?A Walmart even?
What's the range on this overall how many miles on a top charge
How is the battery holding up? there is a disclaimer with the battery stating not to exceed a 500 watt motor.
Where is the controller located on the bike?
When you say burnout, has yours burnt out?
did your kit come with the battery?
No, the battery is separate. I put links to the parts I used on this build in the description if you want to check them out.
The link for the battery on Amazon no longer works. Can you please update the information? Thanks!
Joseph Freitas its on ebay rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?toolid=10026&campid=5338305933&customid=wideskyscraper&type=3&ipn=psmain&kwid=902099&kw=cb&mtid=824&icep_vectorid=229466&icep_item=142458027561&icep_ff3=2
think cabe goes on right side of bike ?
Long does it take to to charge your battery?
What's the wattage ?
I need help I got a ebike with 1000w And I got 4x 6000w 24.000 is that to much and will it kill the ebik and controller box
Hi Charlie,
Where did you install the controller on your bike ? I saw only the battery
Thank
Wow !
Crazy fast
Love they way Americans in general don't bother with safety stuff like no brakes, no helmet and riding on the sidewalk
This is the best video I've ever seen!!! Great job!! I like the " Chinese crap" remark the best. I'm going rear wheel.
Usually, the motor in in the back. I never seen a front wheel drive bike.
most I've seen are front. the problem with a rear wheel build is dealing with the rear gear cassette
@@electrohacker Problem with the front is its dangerous.
There is nothing challenging about an 8 dollar socket to remove the freewheel/cassette.
@@robspear03 it's not dangerous, stop making things up
@@robspear03 Not dangerous for under 1000W motors.
Like not at all. Over a 1000W you start getting into wheelspin and fork issues, and yeah, that's dangerous.
The biggest problem with these kits is the battery price - crazy money. Though I guess if one is using it as an alternative to public transport or a car it soon pays for itself.
Pay for itself doesnt deal with the ridiculous amount of money for these batteries.
I got two of these battery but the 36v lifepo4 at 14ah
It cost me a little over $1,250 to build my ebike, 48v 13ah 1000w and it only top a speed no more than 27mph, it sucks but it helps me move around my neighborhood since I am legally disabled and cannot walk more than a quarter of a mile in distance ever since I went for three majore lower back surgeries in regards of the spinal fusion surgery.
Well, at the end of the day, is way better to have an ebike than having to have to spend lots of money on gas every week!!!!
Do these kits made for 24 inch wheel? Because all I see is kits for 26-inch wheel
24 inch wheel is only on childrens bikes. Get an adult bike.
clean the handlebar rust using regular aluminum foil, it works, i tried.
Nice build. I interested in adding it to my bike (Diamondback). What's the average range/hours per charge?
I think this one is about a 25 mile range, but it also depends one what battery you get
How far can you go on a full charge
@glyn hodges ?? Mine 20watt hours has been spot on. I have a bbs02 mid drive my work is 2.5milles away and I use 55 to 60 watt hours with no pedalling involved.
How's the bike holding up? I have a rusty old beach cruiser too I want to fix up and make into an e-bike. Probably will get a less powerful motor and battery though.
This bike is almost perfect. It was very easy to assemble. th-cam.com/users/postUgkx2YFGCCEkXKgqCOH-7vlvgb4L4hg4IrXI The fit was great as well. I am 5'11" and 160 lbs with a longer torso and rather shorter legs, and 55cm is a perfect fit. Every component seems to be pretty decent and durable except the rear wheel. It was a bit lob-sided and also the freewheel component is either missing a ball bearing or under lubricated, which prevents the wheel from rotating freely. Because of that, it requires more pedaling and also climbing hills a lot harder than expected. Other than the back wheel, I like everything else about it. Affordable and well-built.** UPDATE **It turns out the sound was caused by the tight chain tension. Once I loosen it up by moving the backwheel a tad bit closer to the crankset, the sound went away.
Nice build dude!
Wonder what the range would be with no pedaling at a speed of about 7 mph. I need range, not speed. Want to ride on a local bike path along a canal. Probably not so good. a factory built electric bike with a 20 mile no pedal range is about $2500-$3000.
Gerald Scott at that low speed you would use about 10 watt hours per mile maybe 15 with hill. Probably no significant regeneration from braking. So a simple front hub system is all you need and it would have potential for normal speeds too
A 250 watt motor and 36v 12Ah battery would be fine. It might fit on the frame downtube like a water bottle
Gerald Scott I just ordered a sondors fold x .. check it out 30 miles on throttle alone
The power cord is just a 3 prong cord
I think you left out the most important part," the battery" can you go over the battery, step by step and tell us where you got it from, show how to connect the wires and so on slowly, step by step. please.
Highly technical terminology "the brain, like the epicenter"
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eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeect
bitconect dead bro
S.S Toor dis was 2 months ago
LMAO
Don't need rubber strip in the wheel.
Because the wheel spokes nuts are countersunk.
It's impossible to get a flat tyre from that.
Using masking tape it will only cause damage to the inner tube.
When it rains the tyre will slip around the rim and split the valve.
Because the rim can't grip the inner tube.
Rubber to metal has 10 times more grip than masking tape.
The brake cut of switch are not for just cutting off power for no reason.
It users generate charger to stop the bike and chargers the battery.
giving better braking ability.
The brakes & battery will last longer....
Pedal assist is a really amazing feature to have on your ebike.
It's what makes a ebike a ebike.
Without it it's just a motorbike.
The police can take it away from you.
If it has no pedal assist
Easy?
lousy brakes = accident waiting to happen.
This is NOT the way to go about building an ebike, firstly don't get a powerful front wheel unless you are able to reinforce it, these powerful motors are known to rip themselves off the front forks if not well attached causing a 40mph face plant, a rear wheel is almost always the way to go if your motor is over 350w as it will guarantee your wheel will actually stay attached to the bike when riding. Secondly you NEED to attach some good brakes, preferably disc or hydraulic brakes when riding at those speeds as normal V brakes were never designed to stop a bike from 40mph but as long as you've got a decent set of them on there then they will suffice. Lastly check read the product description when selecting your parts, the battery CLEARLY STATES not to be used with a 1000w motor yet you've decided to use it with a 1000w motor anyway, a child would understand that yet somehow you can't? A few other things such as not attaching the pedal assist sensors and the motor cut off brakes is just really childish and lazy and are included in the kit for a reason. This is clearly someone who doesn't have a clue about what their doing and just heard the buzzwords of 40MPH SPEED and 1000W POWER so decided to buy it and then brag to the internet about it. DO NOT follow this guide as it is dangerous and you'd be taking your life into your hands by following it, there is a proper way to do this kind of thing for the same amount of money and not much skill required, there are professionals that build ebikes for a living and you'd be much better off looking at how they do it rather than this 10 year old.
I find buying from China is cheap but more than 50% of the time electronics have problems with loose solder connections or assembly problems. They get paid to do it fast and don't test for quality.
yea, but america made stuff is 10x more expensive and most people cant afford
50 miles on a charge and im gold..bum leg
Super sketchy. Crap brakes. No helmet. Hold my beer...
That is the freedom of choice that we enjoy in America, safety nanny.
thundercamel Except you don't enjoy the freedom of choice as this bike is illegal as it has a throttle and goes over 28mph.
@@Hunter_Bidens_Crackpipe_ Wtf does the throttle have to do with anything? This aint Canada or Britain nigga.
4:20 - 5:40 reality check kids
WOW, that thing is zippy!
I've done more than 38 MPH and without a motor, just my friggin legs! GET GOOD SCRUBS
Re But downhill when not that's nearly world record isn't it?
Electrical tape is billions time's better than that cloth tape, in my own opinion.
"Holy Crap" .. that first ride could have been his last ride. How anyone can consider doing speeds of a moped with little or no safety equipment, let alone no brakes is beyond me.
A bystander could have steped out of their gateway, or opened a car door and he wouldn't have had a clue.
Another candidate for Darwin's Award.
I dare say there will be those looking at ebikes with a mind for its additional 'risk per capita'.
Eh
I guess I've been lucky
Fitted a 48v 1000w motor to my bike can do 30mph on a flat without safety for about 8 months and I'm doing fine:)
Vroom Vroom
Who needs brakes
american roads are wierd.big ass lanes and no one in sight...youd be lucky you dont see a tumbleweed flew by like the ones in deserts...
Using a lead-acid battery is far cheaper than a lithium-ion. It may be heavier, but it will be safer and cheaper.
it will be 100lbs and much larger...
More like 30 if you want about 2 hours of battery life. At least that's what mine gets.
Billy-Bobus 2 hours of throttle or what?
@@flamincheeto624 "it will be safer" LEAD ACID is so safe isnt it?
As I'm sure he knows this bike is illegal. 1000w is too much, the brakes MUST disengage the motor. Check ur local laws as well as what the US Congress has passed. Or ur own laws if you live in a different country.