I have used a pressure washer sandblaster for about 15 years. It does just what you say and yes you need to get primer on the parts as soon as possible. I did a modification for the sand suction, I drilled a ½" hole in the bottom of a 5 gal. plastic bucket. I then ran an ½' copper pipe out of the bottom to which I attach the sand syphon tube. I elevate the bucket on a stand about 3' in the air, that way the sand is being sucked downhill to the nozzle. I have use that for about 10 years.
Keith: Thank you for sharing certain details the other vids fail to show. Like the amount of pressure needed and the type of sand needed. I really appreciate that and you sharing how to set it up.
Keith, I got the same one to blast the body on my 1932 Ford and it worked great and no metal warpage due to heat, took 8 hours but well worth the time.
I have used one of these in the past and it was ok. Last old machine I repainted I just burned all the paint off with one of those leaf burning torches. It was fast and did a good job, those old oil base paints go up like gasoline!! The part never got over 200 degrees F so I don't think there were any distortion issues.
i believe you can prevent that flash rust if you do the following: 1. Wet blast 2. Add some passivating/rust inhibitor to your PW soap dispenser and do a quick wide spray of it using the soap tip.
This is a great idea, for those of us who can't afford a regular sand blaster. Heard about these before, but thought they were cheap toys. Thanks for the review!
I ran a 100 hp compressor driven sandblaster, these pressure washer sand blasters have a real industrial purpose. They work great, especially when dust and noise is a concern.
A good way to prevent flash rust , while still wet use lemon juice and with a soft scrubbing brush or sponge rub in lemon juice- this gives raw metal a green tinge and then you can rinse off and dry with no flash rust. Currently making my own wet sandblaster for my 3000psi petrol karcher out of a cheapie $30 air sandblaster gun. Have used it but as you say I need the correct nozzle and it will be spot on.
For about the price you paid for the pool filter sand you can get Black Diamond coal slag abrasive. I found it to work much better than sand, it does not contain silica and the particles are uniform in size so I had fewer clogs. I used a similar sand blaster sold by Northern Tool to refinish my boat trailer a couple of years ago.
That's good investment for $100. I'll be adding that to my arsenal. I wonder if my HEATED pressure washer will be much advantage. Stuff sure dries faster when using 300 degree steam! For machined surfaces, gears, leadscrews, handles, gearboxes and such, I have recently turned to using lye (drain cleaner) instead of solvent and paint stripper. It strips EVERYTHING with a lot less work.
Tractor supply has the sand you need. It's designed for this. They usually stock one or two grades. You'll want the finer version. The larger grains don't act like you'd suspect.
There are a lot of these types of things on Amazon in the UK and I assume the same is true of the US. I think the main issue is that the sand has to be absolutely bone dry for the system to work. The slightest bit of moisture will ensure the sand coheres, ensuring no amount of suction will lift it. Pressure washing + sand = wet sand.
The cheapo ones on AMZ are just that. Spend a little more like Keith and get a real lasting tool I suspect. Put your bucket of sand up on a ladder, and put a hole in the bottom with an adapter to let gravity assist. Get a bucket with a lid too.
Thanks Keith. If you happen to have a monument company near you that sandblast tombstones, you may be able to buy good blasting sand at a good price from them.
@@dannyl2598 on phones, you can edit with the 3 little dots. Not trolling... hopefully helping. Have you heard/seen the dry ice method? No abrasives mess! Not sure of the cost difference.
This is not a criticism, but just a question about the silica dust hazard: The silica dust particles are created when the sand particles shatter upon impact. I understand that those silica dust particles are captured in the water slurry with this pressure washer method, but does this not merely transfer the dangerous particles to a pile of wet sand that will eventually dry out? Is this not similar to asbestos particles that will later become dry and airborne? Are we only temporarily avoiding a problem and moving it to another time/place/person?
I've done a fair amount of pressure washer blasting. First thing you need is a pressure washer that will flow at least 3.5-4gpm. The higher the better and the faster it will blast. This flow is what pulls the sand up the siphon tube and throws it onto the material being blasted. Pressure/psi is far less important and anything from 3000psi up is ample. So a cheap $3-600 gas pressure washer won't work, so don't waste your time/money.
Wrong, I've got a standard 3g 3100psi B&D pressure washer and it works better than Keiths actually. Tip- Hang the bucket or place it on a ladder at head height. Spend $5 and knock a hole in the bottom of the bucket and put an adapter for the sand hose to use gravity assist. Pressure is king in this application, more so than gpm. Put some rust inhibitor in the soap dispenser and use the soap tip to spray it down after blasting to prevent flash rust. Play sand has rounded edges and works poorly. . If you are going to do a lot of blasting, you can recycle the sand/$. Get an $11 wading pool Get some plastic drop clothes and some scrap wood or PVC. Rig up the drop cloths around the wading pool like an enclosed shower, and blast in the pool so that most of the spray drips in it. Drain pool, and either let the sand dry, or dry it in 55g drum over butane stove bottle or small campfire. Screed dried sand into sealable 5g buckets. Arguable about whether this is worth it or not.
I think one of the greatest things about this method is the piecemeal method. One thing about setting up a commercial sandblasting deal is the urgency of cleaning and priming. Hauling all the pieces back and forth, weather, pricing, and time all work against you. Making it not fun to have to hurry hurry afterwards. Thanks for sharing
Keith another benefit of wet blasting is it tends to not warp sheet metal like air blasting. We have a local wet basting company we use for that reason. I will be picking up this kit, probably from Northern, for small project. Good tip about the pool filter sand. Thanks. Glad you got a tickle about "Cutting the homeless in haft by 2025".
Looks very handy. My local monument carver (grave markers, tombstones, memorials, etc.) will blast large parts for a very reasonable cost, if you're only needing occasional or one-time use.
If you mix sand and glass beads, it makes small toadstools that can mechanically lock the paint onto the substrate. It works particularly well on metals like aluminum that are hard to paint. I've seen phosphoric acid recommended for stopping rust. Any input?
There are (2) sand pit/mining operations just south of Junction City, GA, fairly close to you and real close to me. It may benefit you to look into their sizes and quantities available. Brown Bros. and Unimin....personally, I deal with Unimin. Try taping roofing felt over the machined areas...
Always looking for ways to Blast old paint, Corroded Alloys etc. looks like something well worth looking at. Thank you for Sharing Keith. Dave from Australia
Keith, if you are near Valdosta , Tifton, or Statesboro check out Agri-Supply. They have small pressure post for standard shop compressors and a variety of blasting media. Also Northern Tool or Tractor Supply for your media.
Auto body shop supply stores sell a “metal prep” solution you can spray on freshly sand blasted parts , just dilute with water and spray on parts then rinse with clean water this etches the metal and keeps the flash rust from happening. Thanks for the tool tip, i will be adding this to my pressure washer set up.
I wonder how this wold work if you removed the suction hose from the bucket and used a pressure pot, similar to what harbor freight sells, to feed the blast head. The feed rate at the pot would have to be regulated as to not overwhelm the capabilities of the head. I know that wet sand prior to the increased velocity of the head is bad, so maybe a trickle feed to the head with just slight positive pressure.
Oh I'm sure we'll get there, you know nanny states and all. Come on, we have "For External Use Only" printed on our curling irons, along with "Caution HOT" as well. NO SH!T SHERLOCK, but here we are. Time to take all those warning labels off and let the chlorine clean the gene pool.
would it be an idea to contact a local, if you have one, water jet cutter to see if they would give you some used garnet? I understand that they don't re use it for cutting but once dried it should still work for your purpose.
I could have sworn a few years ago I've seen Rucker sandblasting on his channel. Maybe he was borrowing that unit from someone? I remember it being an older red sandblasting unit.
Give crushed glass media a go, it would be sharper than any sand you may find and therefore may cut a little quicker. Also, as others have suggested here, try garnet, although not as sharp, it's harder, denser and flows nicely.
I have been following your updates and if I have missed a video when did you get the table ground down and finished? I see you have already put it back together. Did I miss something? The last video you were are apart and going to send it out to be grounded down.
The base and table are together. Does that mean he's sending the entire legs and base out to be grounded? OK . That would be a lot easier for shipping. Thanks for the reply
I guess one has to dry or oil the metal quickly before it rusts again. Also I would guess another advantage of using water is that it prevents a static charge from building up like it does with regular sandblasting
Use a rust inhibitor in the PW soap dispenser and use the soap tip after blasting to solve that problem. Also, being wet, no worries about silicosis using sand.
Looking good Keith. We have a Vapor Hone at Dallas Makerspace, its a smaller scale of the similar setup but keeps the dust way down compared to traditional sand blasters
One must admit that you were one handsome, becoming devil all decked out in your "protective gear." You had best hope that no one from GQ ever watches this video...we would all lose BIG TIME...no Keith...too busy on a photo shoot!! As always, a great video!!
Please post a link or add to the description page the chart of reference for the tips. I have a lower psi electric pressure washer Sun Joe SPX4001 2030 PSI 1.76 GPM 14.5 Amp I wonder if it would be worth the effort, I wonder how the psi of pressure washer sand blasting compares to an air system like ari psi/cfm equals water psi/gpm?
The recommendations with the used one that I picked up was 4 GPM. Not sure about the pressure. I would think that the ceramic nozzle size would be a factor as well.
One thing I learned no matter what type of blasting you use or type of sand, don't do it in your driveway. It will track everywhere. On your shoes, on the car tires, your dogs feet. ..
Hi Keith, another very informative video thank you very much, you have given me some sound advice in utilising the equipment that I already have ie very powerful industrial pressure washer on how to convert it to sandblasting and using water i will obtain the necessary parts and give it a go. Take care and stay safe my friend. Les
Tractor Supply has U. S. Minerals Black Diamond blasting medium. I find it works much better than any of the sands that I can get from the building supply companies and is priced about the same.
I have heard of plastic media blasting & ground walnut shells blasting, with this unit can you use plastic or walnut media instead of sand if there is no difference in price?
Same message here, but there was one on eBay for $80 shipped, so I took a chance. It came today, was slightly used, probably by someone that did not size their machine correctly like Keith said. Local box stores where I am do not stock the pool sand though, so I'm looking for other media alternatives.
Not too many people dealing with lead paint these days And at least it's getting wet down Rather than dry blasting or sanding No good letting it set into th ground but at least it's not footing though the air for everyone nearby to breath in
I agree that lead is an issue especially given the age of the machine. Do you do any testing of the paint using one of those lead testing probes?The wet system at least means that if there is lead it is not vaporized into the air. Yo may want to consider some sort of drain sump where you can collect the sand
There's awful lot of hose in that attachment, I would cut it much shorter to decrease the drag against sand. You would get much more sand mixed in the water and get better results. I think now you are basicly just pressure washing.
Great video Keith. Have you used Ospho, and couldn't you use that to take care of the flash rust? It could also allow you to skip the primer step, provided you were going to prime the surface before painting.
The media hose is FAR TOO LONG. It's amazing that you are getting any sand at all through that thing! It'll work heaps better with a shorter run, like 6 or 10 feet.
He mentioned that in I think the last video where he first showed this device, but I don't recall exactly what he said. I think it was from Lowes and maybe 4500 PSI, but I don't recall the flow. You could probably find that in the video pretty quick.
Good vid, slightly misleading with your cost info though. About $100 you quoted for the washer blaster, but the gas power washer clearly wasnt included in that price! Even a decent grid washer would double that and with the safety gear
I have used a pressure washer sandblaster for about 15 years. It does just what you say and yes you need to get primer on the parts as soon as possible. I did a modification for the sand suction, I drilled a ½" hole in the bottom of a 5 gal. plastic bucket. I then ran an ½' copper pipe out of the bottom to which I attach the sand syphon tube. I elevate the bucket on a stand about 3' in the air, that way the sand is being sucked downhill to the nozzle. I have use that for about 10 years.
Keith: Thank you for sharing certain details the other vids fail to show. Like the amount of pressure needed and the type of sand needed. I really appreciate that and you sharing how to set it up.
Thank you for the post. I was just investigation and that unit is more than cost effective. Thank you
Keith, I got the same one to blast the body on my 1932 Ford and it worked great and no metal warpage due to heat, took 8 hours but well worth the time.
Keith is slowly converting his shop into beach front property.
😁
I have used one of these in the past and it was ok. Last old machine I repainted I just burned all the paint off with one of those leaf burning torches. It was fast and did a good job, those old oil base paints go up like gasoline!! The part never got over 200 degrees F so I don't think there were any distortion issues.
i believe you can prevent that flash rust if you do the following:
1. Wet blast
2. Add some passivating/rust inhibitor to your PW soap dispenser and do a quick wide spray of it using the soap tip.
This is a great idea, for those of us who can't afford a regular sand blaster. Heard about these before, but thought they were cheap toys. Thanks for the review!
I ran a 100 hp compressor driven sandblaster, these pressure washer sand blasters have a real industrial purpose. They work great, especially when dust and noise is a concern.
A good way to prevent flash rust , while still wet use lemon juice and with a soft scrubbing brush or sponge rub in lemon juice- this gives raw metal a green tinge and then you can rinse off and dry with no flash rust. Currently making my own wet sandblaster for my 3000psi petrol karcher out of a cheapie $30 air sandblaster gun. Have used it but as you say I need the correct nozzle and it will be spot on.
For about the price you paid for the pool filter sand you can get Black Diamond coal slag abrasive. I found it to work much better than sand, it does not contain silica and the particles are uniform in size so I had fewer clogs. I used a similar sand blaster sold by Northern Tool to refinish my boat trailer a couple of years ago.
That's good investment for $100. I'll be adding that to my arsenal. I wonder if my HEATED pressure washer will be much advantage. Stuff sure dries faster when using 300 degree steam! For machined surfaces, gears, leadscrews, handles, gearboxes and such, I have recently turned to using lye (drain cleaner) instead of solvent and paint stripper. It strips EVERYTHING with a lot less work.
Tractor supply has the sand you need. It's designed for this. They usually stock one or two grades. You'll want the finer version. The larger grains don't act like you'd suspect.
Great job Keith, the price, and no dust makes that a win-win.
There are a lot of these types of things on Amazon in the UK and I assume the same is true of the US. I think the main issue is that the sand has to be absolutely bone dry for the system to work. The slightest bit of moisture will ensure the sand coheres, ensuring no amount of suction will lift it. Pressure washing + sand = wet sand.
The cheapo ones on AMZ are just that. Spend a little more like Keith and get a real lasting tool I suspect. Put your bucket of sand up on a ladder, and put a hole in the bottom with an adapter to let gravity assist. Get a bucket with a lid too.
Thanks Keith.
If you happen to have a monument company near you that sandblast tombstones, you may be able to buy good blasting sand at a good price from them.
Monument?
@@mwilliamshs
Yes. Thanks.
Autocorrect.
@@dannyl2598 on phones, you can edit with the 3 little dots. Not trolling... hopefully helping. Have you heard/seen the dry ice method? No abrasives mess! Not sure of the cost difference.
@@emeltea33
Thank you for letting me know.
Now my comment won't be a monument to my stupidity.
that dog was really going for it back there
Like the way u explain stuff. What was the psi and gpm on your pressure washer.
Thanks for showing the sand blaster attachment.
This is not a criticism, but just a question about the silica dust hazard: The silica dust particles are created when the sand particles shatter upon impact. I understand that those silica dust particles are captured in the water slurry with this pressure washer method, but does this not merely transfer the dangerous particles to a pile of wet sand that will eventually dry out? Is this not similar to asbestos particles that will later become dry and airborne? Are we only temporarily avoiding a problem and moving it to another time/place/person?
WOW!!! I never gave the pressure washer I have to be used as a sandblaster. I have learned so much from your channel...Thanks.
I've done a fair amount of pressure washer blasting. First thing you need is a pressure washer that will flow at least 3.5-4gpm. The higher the better and the faster it will blast. This flow is what pulls the sand up the siphon tube and throws it onto the material being blasted. Pressure/psi is far less important and anything from 3000psi up is ample. So a cheap $3-600 gas pressure washer won't work, so don't waste your time/money.
I've been using a 2200psi and a 2400psi 2.5 gpm washer for over 20 years. No problem pulling sand up the tube.
Wrong, I've got a standard 3g 3100psi B&D pressure washer and it works better than Keiths actually.
Tip- Hang the bucket or place it on a ladder at head height.
Spend $5 and knock a hole in the bottom of the bucket and put an
adapter for the sand hose to use gravity assist.
Pressure is king in this application, more so than gpm.
Put some rust inhibitor in the soap dispenser and use the soap tip
to spray it down after blasting to prevent flash rust.
Play sand has rounded edges and works poorly.
.
If you are going to do a lot of blasting, you can recycle the sand/$.
Get an $11 wading pool
Get some plastic drop clothes and some scrap wood or PVC.
Rig up the drop cloths around the wading pool like an enclosed
shower, and blast in the pool so that most of the spray drips in it.
Drain pool, and either let the sand dry, or dry it in 55g drum over
butane stove bottle or small campfire.
Screed dried sand into sealable 5g buckets.
Arguable about whether this is worth it or not.
Another option is let it flash, and hit it with ospho, or another converter and it’ll create a nice barrier as well.
might want to look at "hold tight" for bloom prevention.
I think one of the greatest things about this method is the piecemeal method. One thing about setting up a commercial sandblasting deal is the urgency of cleaning and priming. Hauling all the pieces back and forth, weather, pricing, and time all work against you. Making it not fun to have to hurry hurry afterwards. Thanks for sharing
Keith another benefit of wet blasting is it tends to not warp sheet metal like air blasting. We have a local wet basting company we use for that reason. I will be picking up this kit, probably from Northern, for small project. Good tip about the pool filter sand. Thanks. Glad you got a tickle about "Cutting the homeless in haft by 2025".
I wonder if you could add a bit of air pressure?
Thanks for the link Keith.
Looks very handy. My local monument carver (grave markers, tombstones, memorials, etc.) will blast large parts for a very reasonable cost, if you're only needing occasional or one-time use.
I'd never heard of this use for a power washer.
Thanks for posting this video.
Great video, thanks.
Us cat people instantly recognize the Tidy Cat bucket…
Meowrrrrrr…
looks like it works very well
If you mix sand and glass beads, it makes small toadstools that can mechanically lock the paint onto the substrate. It works particularly well on metals like aluminum that are hard to paint.
I've seen phosphoric acid recommended for stopping rust. Any input?
rather than sand use iron granuals
does a good job on cast
There are (2) sand pit/mining operations just south of Junction City, GA, fairly close to you and real close to me. It may benefit you to look into their sizes and quantities available. Brown Bros. and Unimin....personally, I deal with Unimin. Try taping roofing felt over the machined areas...
Thank you for uploading your video. As is typically the case, you are a restful individual from whom to learn.
Always looking for ways to Blast old paint, Corroded Alloys etc. looks like something well worth looking at. Thank you for Sharing Keith. Dave from Australia
I bet you could mix in a little garnet and shorten the sand supply hose and get a bit more aggressive abrasion
That sandblasting ppe/clothing combination made my day!
That dog was cleaning his privates with out the pressure and the sand
Keith, if you are near Valdosta , Tifton, or Statesboro check out Agri-Supply. They have small pressure post for standard shop compressors and a variety of blasting media. Also Northern Tool or Tractor Supply for your media.
Auto body shop supply stores sell a “metal prep” solution you can spray on freshly sand blasted parts , just dilute with water and spray on parts then rinse with clean water this etches the metal and keeps the flash rust from happening.
Thanks for the tool tip, i will be adding this to my pressure washer set up.
I wonder how this wold work if you removed the suction hose from the bucket and used a pressure pot, similar to what harbor freight sells, to feed the blast head. The feed rate at the pot would have to be regulated as to not overwhelm the capabilities of the head. I know that wet sand prior to the increased velocity of the head is bad, so maybe a trickle feed to the head with just slight positive pressure.
That planner looks huge, thanks for sharing.
Great tip, Keith. Thanks!
Can you use crushed glas in these?
I am not sure how this is in the states but in The Netherlands Silca sand is highly forbidden as a blasting medium since the sixties.
Oh I'm sure we'll get there, you know nanny states and all. Come on, we have "For External Use Only" printed on our curling irons, along with "Caution HOT" as well. NO SH!T SHERLOCK, but here we are. Time to take all those warning labels off and let the chlorine clean the gene pool.
It is permitted here so use at your won risk. Our gov. don't really care for us, just politicians after their own greed, not public service.
he said before he doing it wet so it ok. IF your doing it dry that where your problems come from. Wet is not the same as dry blasting
@@davidhoward2237 Yes I know Mr Rucker knows, but I'm sure there are buncha hee-haw's blasting away as we speak, with no protection.
"Highly forbidden" lol. You'd think it was radioactive the way you said that. What a bunch of nanny state wimps.
would it be an idea to contact a local, if you have one, water jet cutter to see if they would give you some used garnet? I understand that they don't re use it for cutting but once dried it should still work for your purpose.
What size of pressure washer did you use?
I could have sworn a few years ago I've seen Rucker sandblasting on his channel. Maybe he was borrowing that unit from someone? I remember it being an older red sandblasting unit.
Yes he has one, great for small parts but for these not so much
Just wanted to make sure I wasn't imagining Keith using a red sandblaster then saying he doesn't have one.
He did a video about upgrading his blasting cabinet I think.
There is/was a product that when sprayed on to rust "turned it black to a inert rust, might work well on the "flash rust."
I neglected to add that it is/was a automotive body product
Give crushed glass media a go, it would be sharper than any sand you may find and therefore may cut a little quicker. Also, as others have suggested here, try garnet, although not as sharp, it's harder, denser and flows nicely.
I have been following your updates and if I have missed a video when did you get the table ground down and finished? I see you have already put it back together. Did I miss something? The last video you were are apart and going to send it out to be grounded down.
george fulk - you didn’t miss anything yet, I think he is shipping the base and table up to Wisconsin in August for grinding.
The base and table are together. Does that mean he's sending the entire legs and base out to be grounded? OK . That would be a lot easier for shipping. Thanks for the reply
If you go to his channel page, you can look at his videos and see them all in chronological order.
Keith, did I miss the amount of pressure you have from your pressure washer? What is the minimum amount to make this work?
Looks to be a cost effective solution. Thanks for the video.
I guess one has to dry or oil the metal quickly before it rusts again. Also I would guess another advantage of using water is that it prevents a static charge from building up like it does with regular sandblasting
Use a rust inhibitor in the PW soap dispenser and use the soap tip after blasting to solve that problem. Also, being wet, no worries about silicosis using sand.
Looking good Keith. We have a Vapor Hone at Dallas Makerspace, its a smaller scale of the similar setup but keeps the dust way down compared to traditional sand blasters
If you shorten the sand feed hose you’ll increase the sand feed rate.
Very nice video, thank you
One must admit that you were one handsome, becoming devil all decked out in your "protective gear." You had best hope that no one from GQ ever watches this video...we would all lose BIG TIME...no Keith...too busy on a photo shoot!! As always, a great video!!
Please post a link or add to the description page the chart of reference for the tips.
I have a lower psi electric pressure washer Sun Joe SPX4001 2030 PSI 1.76 GPM 14.5 Amp
I wonder if it would be worth the effort, I wonder how the psi of pressure washer sand blasting compares to an air system like ari psi/cfm equals water psi/gpm?
The recommendations with the used one that I picked up was 4 GPM.
Not sure about the pressure. I would think that the ceramic nozzle size would be a factor as well.
For larger projects a guy should see if there are any mobile blasters or mobile dustless blasters in the area.
They're crazy expensive. 10 years ago I was charged $200 an hour plus travel and I was cheap.
One thing I learned no matter what type of blasting you use or type of sand, don't do it in your driveway. It will track everywhere. On your shoes, on the car tires, your dogs feet. ..
Hi Keith, another very informative video
thank you very much, you have given me some sound advice in utilising the equipment that I already have ie very powerful industrial pressure washer on how to convert it to sandblasting and using water i will obtain the necessary parts and give it a go. Take care and stay safe my friend. Les
Looks like the dog enjoyed himself a out 13 min in.
How did you deal with flash rust?
Looks like I have a purchase to make.
I didn't know they existed. It solves my paint removal problem.
Thanks Keith.
John
How many bags does it take to do that piece
Late to the party as usual. Keith, what are the specs on your pressure washer GPM and PSI. Thanks. This looks really useful.
Great video. Thanks
Great idea. Im getting tired of using citris strip and grinding wheel for just about everything.
Pretty sure it will do this but... will it work with crushed walnuts?
I like to use coal slag or recycled glass, it's relatively cheap here. Strange enough I bought that exact setup earlier this year 😉
how did it work with the glass is it any good
What size pressure washer are you using? Maybe you said and I just missed it
Try paver sand it's just as course but its cheaper then the pool filter sand
particularly sharp sand
Tractor Supply has U. S. Minerals Black Diamond blasting medium. I find it works much better than any of the sands that I can get from the building supply companies and is priced about the same.
southern 207 hobbies coarse
Keith, can you use regular blasting sand? That's going for about 5 bucks a bag around here, and IIRC, it's 70 pound bags. It is very fine sand though.
Fine sand doesn't blast well in a suction wet blaster.
I have heard of plastic media blasting & ground walnut shells blasting, with this unit can you use plastic or walnut media instead of sand if there is no difference in price?
You don't want to wash a ton of plastic particulates into the environment. Plastics are for blasting cabinets and for soft materials.
hi Keith, you forgot to mention the Tidy Cats sand container. They are great for storage. I have a dozen of them.
The unit is not currently available on Amazon.....and I blame you. They probably sold out 15 minutes after this video came out. LOL
Yep! He did it alright and Google was tracking me and sending ads to my Facebook feed for alternative blasters. Go figure.
Same message here, but there was one on eBay for $80 shipped, so I took a chance. It came today, was slightly used, probably by someone that did not size their machine correctly like Keith said. Local box stores where I am do not stock the pool sand though, so I'm looking for other media alternatives.
Maybe not a huge deal for occasional diyers, but One drawback nobody has mentioned is lead from the paint getting released into the environment.
Not too many people dealing with lead paint these days
And at least it's getting wet down
Rather than dry blasting or sanding
No good letting it set into th ground but at least it's not footing though the air for everyone nearby to breath in
I agree that lead is an issue especially given the age of the machine. Do you do any testing of the paint using one of those lead testing probes?The wet system at least means that if there is lead it is not vaporized into the air. Yo may want to consider some sort of drain sump where you can collect the sand
Lead is a non issue in this case. Lead paint contains
Andrew Delashaw , How nice of you to have that all figured out for us.
Robert Hamilton: I also appreciate his time and effort!
Nice video Keith... thanks, thinking of picking one up
Is 2600 psi enough for this set up? Thank you
There's awful lot of hose in that attachment, I would cut it much shorter to decrease the drag against sand. You would get much more sand mixed in the water and get better results. I think now you are basicly just pressure washing.
YEP - the hose is FAR too long. 6 or 10 feet would be move than enough
Any way to control the amount of media at the nozzle Keith ?
good job,try some aluminum like a outboard motor or something.
Great video Keith. Have you used Ospho, and couldn't you use that to take care of the flash rust? It could also allow you to skip the primer step, provided you were going to prime the surface before painting.
I have little doubt this is cheaper than farming it out too.
Great idea--Thanks for sharing.
The media hose is FAR TOO LONG. It's amazing that you are getting any sand at all through that thing!
It'll work heaps better with a shorter run, like 6 or 10 feet.
How many PSI pressure washer did you use?
Currently unavailable.
We don't know when or if this item will be back in stock.
What PSI pressure washer did you use in the video?
so tell me about that gantry, I could use one
Neat find, as a frame of reference what are the specs of your power washer unit?
He mentioned that in I think the last video where he first showed this device, but I don't recall exactly what he said. I think it was from Lowes and maybe 4500 PSI, but I don't recall the flow. You could probably find that in the video pretty quick.
www.lowes.com/pd/SIMPSON-PowerShot-3400-PSI-2-5-GPM-Cold-Water-Gas-Pressure-Washer-CARB/1000731644
Would a high power pressure washer, delivering 3000 P.S.I. (200 BAR ), do the trick without sand?
No, you need abrasion.
Hey Kieth, just curious what pressure/GPM washer you are using?
Thank you🧐. Very informative.
Would it work better if you used garnet or other blasting media?
Dog putting on its own show....lol!
Has anyone tried garnet in one of these? I know it’s like 10x more expensive, but I’m really curious if it’s worth it.
Not worth the cost for single use. If you can capture the media for re-use it becomes more economical.
Good vid, slightly misleading with your cost info though. About $100 you quoted for the washer blaster, but the gas power washer clearly wasnt included in that price! Even a decent grid washer would double that and with the safety gear
Did you change the color?