After watching Ivan's video I purchased an LED test light because I have been lucky not to have burned up components with my 150 ma test light , that in rush current is enough to scare me. Thanks for the video keep them coming.
Use info, it's frustrating as a hobbyist poking about and not finding a fix, but still satisfying to know that using an LED test light your not making things worse ... Thank you ... Regards Andy
Your demo proved the inrush current is probably what caused the damage in Ivan's video. Ivan could have used a logic probe, which would have worked. Nice demo Steve. Your Awesome!
I wonder if the window gets a power or a ground from a body control module and when you put your test light to the wiring it didn't like what you did and shut the circuit down. I had this with a temperature guage on a dash I put the test light to one of the wires and lost milage Rev counter fuel guage. I did a hard reset (connected batt + to - and everything came back. Obviously the computer didn't like what I did and protected itself.
i'll admit i was distracted and got confused watching ivans video and havent got back to rewatch. his comment gave me some gist though. the 12volt was being supplied by the module to the motor most likely as a supply for the encoders or sensors. any time you deal with board level components or thier supplies you must introduce only a higher impedance than what the circuit is designed for thus a meter. so yeah he was fine with a scope but not with a test light. that 12v shouldda been tapped off the supply but was probably done that way to protect the motor. his inquisitive mind gave us all a lesson and thank you steve for showing us the inrush. btw i own 2 snap on led test lights (both obsolete) and have seldom had the need to use them. usually test power and ground check the controls and just toss the modules
Ok Thanks for the reply. Interestingly my snap on bulb had an inrush of 514 ma and levelled at 45ma, my led test lamp had no inrush and was level at 34ma, i then tested my testo multimeter and when it read the voltage it had no change on the scope, so the multi meter or pico seem to be the safest bet with second place going to the Led test lamp.
I think Keith, @retired New Level Auto, taught Ivan to use test lights for sensitive electronic testing on encoder motor circuits. Just kidding. Thank you Steve. Good job. Have a blessed and safe week to you and your family.
Nice ! Steve, that was a great idea and a great experiment ! Bet Ivan wishes he thought of it first ! LOL ! Hey it's a learning experience. I know learned from Ivan's experience.
Sir is there such a procedure that whereas a test light will reveal or perform an outcome that a multimeter cannot (do I really need a test light in my Arsenal or can I diagnose any problem with multimeter 🤔
Sorry missed again notification came through but was busy squeezing 2015 Mazda 2.2 lump in so wanted to finish it Have Sealey metal body test light might consider OTC or Scrap-On one Anyway thanks for a great video
Very interested in another/clearer video. I use my power probe 3 if I'm not sure about a circuit, do you think I should invest in snap on LED test light or the incandescent from OTC? I have an incandescent test light I think draws about 125 milliamps, I have another one that I don't use much that draws about 750 milliamps
Hi Steve nice video as always. Do you know who is the actual manufacturer of the OTC 3633 ? Unfortunately Aeswave has told me that it is discontinued. I am looking all over the place in internet to find the actual manufacturer but with no success......😢
Sat here watching the video thinking that the sticker on your laptop looked familiar. 10 minutes in I realise we have the same laptop and this is like Diagnostic inception!
It's a cracking laptop but worryingly the fingerprint reader stopped working and the backlight is failing on the screen already. It's never going to survive life on the road at this rate ☹️
@@SimplyDiagnostics found the same. Only ones I have that endure are dell or Pana toughbook. Their tablet is great too, especially for W7-10 but scarey price here in NZ.
Sorry I missed the livestream I was under a car 🥵... very interesting and important that inrush current I never liked led test light but know it’s on my list of tool to get 😊... would be nice to have a test light with a 4mm banana tip too 👍👍👍
I immediately cut the clips off and fit a 4mm banana, you can then fit whichever clip or probe you need and use the Powerprobe 3 extension lead and cigar adapter for a guaranteed power or ground anywhere on the car 👍
Simply Diagnostics I do the same thing, I meant the tip itself I find when I’m testing cranking circuit the engine shakes moving the test light sometimes
A combination of inrush current and circuit design seems to have been the failure cause. Part 3 of Ivan's case study shows a burned out component in the motor board - this may have contributed to it as well.
Recording was clear enough to be visible so big thanks from my apprentices. Noticed motorvac on your shelf. Do you use it concentrated spray or through the machine? Been using it through the fuel system cleaner for years but they have a different attack system now for egr? How are you finding it to work if you don't mind me asking. Probably a hard ask without it being an endorsement or other
Ok Thanks for the reply. Interestingly my snap on bulb had an inrush of 514 ma and levelled at 45ma, my led test lamp had no inrush and was level at 34ma, i then tested my testo multimeter and when it read the voltage it had no change on the scope, so the multi meter or pico seem to be the safest bet with second place going to the Led test lamp.
Good video steve, has started to become a big concern when probing with a normal test lamp, would there be much current inrush using a multimeter ? I cannot seem to find the otc 3633 on scannerdanner.com aeswave page, i find tools but its not listed ? I seems impossible to buy from a uk site.
It seems to have gone, he has them listed on his Amazon but there seems to be a big shortage www.amazon.com/dp/B003YNHVQQ/?ref=exp_scannerdanner_dp_vv_mw
I saw Ivan do that (once deliberately) . In my experience of electronics most drivers that drive less than a few hundred mA can take short to ground of vcc without any issue. Hopefully Ivan will give us more details on the chip in the switch that he broke. (buy the way I think this is not Subaru's finest engineering, modules that cannot be scanned with unprotected drivers threaded around the car not to say the poor quality of the switches themselves).
Many apologies for the buffering, this was a nightmare video. I'll do it again in HD on a decent connection.
After watching Ivan's video I purchased an LED test light because I have been lucky not to have burned up components with my 150 ma test light , that in rush current is enough to scare me. Thanks for the video keep them coming.
Use info, it's frustrating as a hobbyist poking about and not finding a fix, but still satisfying to know that using an LED test light your not making things worse ... Thank you ... Regards Andy
Good to know. When in doubt, best to start with an LED test light. Thanks for making video and sharing.
Your demo proved the inrush current is probably what caused the damage in Ivan's video.
Ivan could have used a logic probe, which would have worked.
Nice demo Steve. Your Awesome!
Awesome video Steve, will be testing mine before I let the smoke out 😮💨👍
I wonder if the window gets a power or a ground from a body control module and when you put your test light to the wiring it didn't like what you did and shut the circuit down. I had this with a temperature guage on a dash I put the test light to one of the wires and lost milage Rev counter fuel guage. I did a hard reset (connected batt + to - and everything came back. Obviously the computer didn't like what I did and protected itself.
i'll admit i was distracted and got confused watching ivans video and havent got back to rewatch. his comment gave me some gist though. the 12volt was being supplied by the module to the motor most likely as a supply for the encoders or sensors. any time you deal with board level components or thier supplies you must introduce only a higher impedance than what the circuit is designed for thus a meter. so yeah he was fine with a scope but not with a test light. that 12v shouldda been tapped off the supply but was probably done that way to protect the motor. his inquisitive mind gave us all a lesson and thank you steve for showing us the inrush. btw i own 2 snap on led test lights (both obsolete) and have seldom had the need to use them. usually test power and ground check the controls and just toss the modules
I'd go back and watch again, the comments are well worth reading as well 👍
Unfortunately the OTC 3633 is nowhere more to find, it is discontinued 😢
Ok Thanks for the reply.
Interestingly my snap on bulb had an inrush of 514 ma and levelled at 45ma, my led test lamp had no inrush and was level at 34ma, i then tested my testo multimeter and when it read the voltage it had no change on the scope, so the multi meter or pico seem to be the safest bet with second place going to the Led test lamp.
Try putting an NTC varistor in line to limit inrush current with the incandescents just for the hell of it??
Hmm, may try that 👍
Brilliant Video Steve , Looks like i am going to be using my LED test light more ,,and more ,,Top information ,,, thanks for sharing ,,,,,,,
Thanks for this - I was only giving this some thought the other day. Very helpful.
I think Keith, @retired New Level Auto, taught Ivan to use test lights for sensitive electronic testing on encoder motor circuits. Just kidding. Thank you Steve. Good job. Have a blessed and safe week to you and your family.
thank you
Thanks for sharing Steve. Cheers...
Love your vids man, Keeps the brain ticking over in lockdown haha, I was idling quite low at times
i have 3ma all the way to 4amp test lights for different things like load testing circuits
Nice ! Steve, that was a great idea and a great experiment ! Bet Ivan wishes he thought of it first ! LOL ! Hey it's a learning experience. I know learned from Ivan's experience.
Sir is there such a procedure that whereas a test light will reveal or perform an outcome that a multimeter cannot (do I really need a test light in my Arsenal or can I diagnose any problem with multimeter 🤔
Sorry missed again notification came through but was busy squeezing 2015 Mazda 2.2 lump in so wanted to finish it
Have Sealey metal body test light might consider OTC or Scrap-On one
Anyway thanks for a great video
Thanks for the advice regarding banana connector deffo will add also just ordered OTC test light one more thanks
Very interested in another/clearer video. I use my power probe 3 if I'm not sure about a circuit, do you think I should invest in snap on LED test light or the incandescent from OTC? I have an incandescent test light I think draws about 125 milliamps, I have another one that I don't use much that draws about 750 milliamps
Hi Steve nice video as always. Do you know who is the actual manufacturer of the OTC 3633 ? Unfortunately Aeswave has told me that it is discontinued. I am looking all over the place in internet to find the actual manufacturer but with no success......😢
Steve just wondering were you sourced your 4mm banana connectors?
Amazon mate, Farnells or RS components also do some really high quality ones 👍
Thanks Steve. Just couldn't see them on Amazon.
Sat here watching the video thinking that the sticker on your laptop looked familiar. 10 minutes in I realise we have the same laptop and this is like Diagnostic inception!
It's a cracking laptop but worryingly the fingerprint reader stopped working and the backlight is failing on the screen already. It's never going to survive life on the road at this rate ☹️
@@SimplyDiagnostics found the same. Only ones I have that endure are dell or Pana toughbook. Their tablet is great too, especially for W7-10 but scarey price here in NZ.
Sorry I missed the livestream I was under a car 🥵... very interesting and important that inrush current I never liked led test light but know it’s on my list of tool to get 😊... would be nice to have a test light with a 4mm banana tip too 👍👍👍
I immediately cut the clips off and fit a 4mm banana, you can then fit whichever clip or probe you need and use the Powerprobe 3 extension lead and cigar adapter for a guaranteed power or ground anywhere on the car 👍
Simply Diagnostics I do the same thing, I meant the tip itself I find when I’m testing cranking circuit the engine shakes moving the test light sometimes
I've got a couple of them, both discontinued. Warwick test supplies do a screw on 4mm adaptor for testlights like the OTC that have threads 👍
Simply Diagnostics thanks for that Steve I’ll try Warwick 👍👍👍
Thanks for sharing 👍
Can you address the part that some are saying they would never apply 12V to a 5V logic circuit. Or is it really just the amperage in this case.
A combination of inrush current and circuit design seems to have been the failure cause. Part 3 of Ivan's case study shows a burned out component in the motor board - this may have contributed to it as well.
Recording was clear enough to be visible so big thanks from my apprentices.
Noticed motorvac on your shelf. Do you use it concentrated spray or through the machine? Been using it through the fuel system cleaner for years but they have a different attack system now for egr?
How are you finding it to work if you don't mind me asking. Probably a hard ask without it being an endorsement or other
What's motorvac Peter?
Do you think a
retro fit led lamp would fit in a standard test light
For the cost mate it's not worth the effort
It does work but the current only flows one way so you due to circuit design on any led bulbs I have tried.
Great video as always... Have you a good source for 4mm banana plugs..
Warwick test supplies have top quality stuff, or Farnell, or RS components. Also cheaper from eBay but quality isn't the same.
Steve how did you thin the line down on the pico you did it on the first test?
Vertical resolution, adjust it up from 12 bit 👍
Ok Thanks for the reply.
Interestingly my snap on bulb had an inrush of 514 ma and levelled at 45ma, my led test lamp had no inrush and was level at 34ma, i then tested my testo multimeter and when it read the voltage it had no change on the scope, so the multi meter or pico seem to be the safest bet with second place going to the Led test lamp.
Good video steve, has started to become a big concern when probing with a normal test lamp, would there be much current inrush using a multimeter ?
I cannot seem to find the otc 3633 on scannerdanner.com aeswave page, i find tools but its not listed ?
I seems impossible to buy from a uk site.
It seems to have gone, he has them listed on his Amazon but there seems to be a big shortage www.amazon.com/dp/B003YNHVQQ/?ref=exp_scannerdanner_dp_vv_mw
No, most DVM's even the cheap ones have a built in impedance of 10,000000 ohms limiting current flow to a very, very small amout.
Billy R
That explains the no noticeable change on the scope when i measured.
Thanks for your reply.
Has anyone got a link to the subaru video please?
th-cam.com/video/KH51GsEV0VA/w-d-xo.html
foist?
I saw Ivan do that (once deliberately) . In my experience of electronics most drivers that drive less than a few hundred mA can take short to ground of vcc without any issue. Hopefully Ivan will give us more details on the chip in the switch that he broke. (buy the way I think this is not Subaru's finest engineering, modules that cannot be scanned with unprotected drivers threaded around the car not to say the poor quality of the switches themselves).
Always said the Most Dangerous Person in the world is a truck driver with a toolbox equipped with a sharp pointed test light !
I think Ivan's test light came from Harbor Freight I bought one and I think it has 300 milliamps
Mine is from HF it’s about 400 milliamps. My OTC one is about 250 amps. Danner teaches you to test and label your test lights for that reason.
Best is till 250ma
Hello 🖖🏽✌🏽😉
foist?