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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2024
- Tearing down the knocking 3.0 Duratec V6 Engine from a 2003 Ford Escape.
Ford Escape Taurus engine swap:part 1: • Taurus Engine Swap int...
Ford Escape Taurus engine swap:part 2: • Taurus Engine Into A F...
This engine was removed from a 2003 Ford Escape during the Taurus engine swap. With only 130k it started knocking unexpectedly. Metal was found in the oil pickup and pan. Now I tear it apart to find out exactly what went wrong. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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As the price for used cars go up, i tend to keep older cars are repair them. I used this video today to help diagnose an engine noise. Thank you for the video, it timeless as these Duratecs are still on the road.
I had 350k on my 05 escape 3.0 duratec, still ran good, used no oil, always changed oil at 5-7k miles motorcraft blend,sold it to neighbor and he drove it for a year until he rolled it end over end. I had ford check compression yearly. I have 07 mariner,same engine, 113k,runs great.
I realize this is an older video but very informative. I have a 06 Ford 500 3.0 V6 duratec engine, and just curious what to watch for. Thank you, John
Great Videos! We have a 2002 Tribute ES, bought new, only 110,000 miles so far (city car, parked outside it's entire life). Oil always changed at 3,000 and checked often. We had our first coil go bad at a few years ago, and of course it was the back side. We did all of the belts, intake gaskets, plugs, PCV, etc. but only replaced the back three coils with new and saved the two working ones as spares, I think that was at 80K miles. About 15,000 miles later one of the front coils went and I replaced it with a spare and today another of the front ones went , again 15,000 more miles, so I'll be changing out #5 tomorrow morning with the last of the original coils. I should probably buy a new coil and keep a deep 8mm socket in the car from now on. Instead of 5W-20, we've always used 5W-30 since the manual said that was acceptable. It seems to me that a lot of the failures on these V6's go more by years than miles since we've paralleled a lot of higher mileage cars in when certain repairs are needed. Our Tribute will be 15 years old in a few months.
If I'm not mistaken coils are considered a wear item on some vehicles and meant to be replaced at specific intervals when a tune up is done. All vehicles will experience the same things with age. Many parts on a vehicle will fail with age rather than miles, especially if it sits alot.
This is a clear example which I have seen many times of people not changing your oil until it reaches 20 or 25,000 miles or more. You reap what you sow
There used to be a commercial many years ago regarding oil and filter changes:
"Pay me now or pay me later".
@@boomerguy9935 I remember that
Very informative, great knowledge to share. Will definitely stay on top of the maintenance and oil
This is easily one of the best videos that I have watched on TH-cam! Thanks.
Instablaster...
Great video. For future reference, use more light. Don't ever film with most of the light behind the camera. Always put the light in front of you. Otherwise really good. I like the editing.
Actually, phatcowboy76, you have it backwards. Don't film into the light, as was done in this case. You need the light to be behind the camera, so it lights up what you want to film.
The 3.0 Duratec V6 in my '04 Mazda 6S hatchback leaked for almost a decade (I bought it new, it started to leak oil onto my exhaust and cause oil vapor two years later) before I finally found the source - failure of the seal on the rear side of the timing chain cover where the block mates to the head. At 12 years old I committed to a huge project of replacing my manual transmission and clutch, and ended up tackling a lot of other repairs along the way. It took me a long time to remedy the problem but I have no more leaks. I was very careful in cleaning the seal mating surfaces and used sealant designed for synthetic oil. I actually discovered that the 2 surfaces of the head and block didn't meet up flush (thanks Ford), so I filed the protruding edge and used emory cloth to smooth things out. I came to realize that EVERY seal was leaking. All 6 spark plug seals were leaking, and I had already replaced them once before. Both valve cover seals were leaking, and I replace the small seal that runs under the water pump pulley as well as the oil seal where the camshaft exits the head for the pulley. I replaced the main seals at the flywheel as well as at the timing pulley. New oil pump which ended up being a waste of time and money since the original was just fine at 165,000 miles, but I figured "might as well since it's all torn apart". No more leaks BUT I eat 3 quarts of oil per change. Even though my PCV valve is only 2 years old, I'm going to go check it again... Thanks for the awesome video man. Very informative.
Finally someone gets it, all these reports about blown duratec engines and the issue is people do not check there oil. My pcv valve failed and started eating oil. I changed the valve and oil consumption stopped. Also, buy the oem pcv valve, I baught an aftermarket pcv valve and froze closed pressuring the crankcase blowing oil past the front crank seal. Very lucky I caught it, changed the seal and all good. All of this was found by just checking the oil.
I changed my pcv valve myself without removing intake..... I did notice oil blowby in the tubes though.... also notice oil blowby in the air intake between the filter & butterfly valve. Maybe my aftermarket pcv ain't good?
Dont use aftermarket PVC. Mine was 2 weeks old and froze up and failed in the winter. Long story short my crankcase pressurized. Use OEM. Its only a few $ more. Then keep an eye on it.
David Henri ok... guess imma be getting one from RockAuto then and changing it again! Thanks! (Should I also change entire pcv line from valve to rear of upper intake as well then since it's got oil coating in it?)
You can take the line off and clean/inspect. I recommond a ford PCV. Mine that failed was a "standard" brand.
David Henri ok I think I'm gonna do that tomorrow.... mine seems like it's in 3-4 pieces... it's not one solid line/piece.
good series of videos.. thanks for sharing the great info... My 2001 Escape just started to make noise at 267,000 miles.... bummed was hoping to get to 300,000.. It has been a very good vehicle and served me well...
Awesome video! I have a 2001 Escape with the Duratec 3.0 v6 engine and (luckily) I'm obsessive about checking the oil because I know I have a minor leak (valve cover gasket for sure and somewhere above oil pan).
Timing covers are notorious for leaking on those engines, that will cause a leak above the oil pan.
The part your indicating at the end of your video is what's known as an oil separator and Ford has been known with this particular part and was also part of a TSB.
I used a notched out pvc tube to fit as a 4 pt socket and twisted off w/o removing the intake
I have a 2.0 duratec mondeo that's done 142,000 miles and I check my oil regularly. The early blocks had problems with substandard oil rings but was rectified on later models. I recently replaced the inlet manifold tumbler flaps as a precaution as they can weaken with time and get ingested by the engine but thinking about it now I probably should have changed the pcv valve while I had the manifold off. My car uses a very small amount of oil and that's probably down to the valve. Thanks for the video, great job.
The 2.0 is a four cyl engine.. totally different
I watched this series 8 or 9 years ago. Now I’m watching again because my son started driving my escape and ran it out of oil. Engine sounds exactly like that one did. Wonder if I could pull the pistons to inspect with the engine in place. I’ll be checking that out tomorrow. Thanks for the vid
Great analysis. Very useful.
Great job. thank you for posting this video.
It's a pain to get to the pcv valve.
When I had my mechanic replace my valve cover gaskets, coil and plugs, and check the torque on the cam cover bolts (problem on the earlier Gen 1 3.0 V6), I had him also replace the PCV valve because of its terrible location. With 148K miles on the engine, the PCV valve was still pretty clean thanks to regular oil changes. The valve cover gasket facing the firewall had a small leak. Other than that, the engine was only losing oil from the oil pan gasket which is next on my list for him to do. Fortunately, I have no noticeable oil loss between 5K mile oil changes with premium 5W/20 full synthetic oil and premium oil filter.
My 2008 Escape (Gen 2 body) still has the Gen 1 3.0 Duratec engine (non-VVT) which I prefer for its simplicity and better reliability reputation than the Gen 2 engine.
Very interesting.
Would never expect to see the wrist pins tightening up like that from lack of lube.
Thanks for this video. Helped me in my tear down.
Great video (another thumbs up from me) ! Duratecs are good engines but they sure won't run without oil. Mine has a mystery oil leak, we've had it on a rack several times and can't find it. I had the intake off to replace the coil packs on the rear bank and I thought I replaced the PCV valve but I don't remember it being that big (2005 Mercury Sable).
I'm not a professional, but I think you might benefit looking into engine oil dye. Engine fluid manufacturers make a fluorescent dye that is safe to add into your oil. After running the engine briefly, you should have better luck finding the source of the leak with a black light. I would recommend general cleaning near any potential leak points with a engine safe degreaser before all of this too.
I would also suggest looking into the manufacturer recommended engine oils and see if there is a heavier option oil that still meets your oil temp requirements.
Hope this helps.
Good video Thank you from Honduras
great vid man
Thank you! that was my EXACT PROBLEM.
loved the videos. but based on what you had it was clear that the owner of the engine did not do oil changes at the right intervals. they ran it dry. look at the dark stains left behind the oil.
hopefully you sold it. it's still a great block. you could chuck a grenade at those things and they would survive it. as long as it had freshn oil lol
bad ass video man Berri good info
Mine is developing a slight knock. I want to pull the pan and inspect the barring's. can the pan be removed without pulling the engine
thank you very much for your input so magnificent
At about 5:44, what is that in the middle of the cylinders at the top of the block? It looks like a spot for an ignition coil or hose, but the hole stops.
I have a 2010 escape and was wondering if it should be exposed like mine is.
i am a first time viewer, but you need a light !!!!
thanks
Is the engine on a 2008 Mariner the same exact thing as this one?
Where any of the top bolts loose inside the head? Heard that they then to work out or break a lot. Usually from the back forward.
No
@@pfun41 Thanks for the reply. Still trying to figure out what happened to my freestyle with this engine.
one of the best vids i seen in a long time as a 99 sable owner i thank you but i changed my pcv and it was under the throttle body am i missing something or is this just a redesign.
When you took the head off you can see the rh bank #1 piston shiny on the top @ 4.26 and the head also shiny, @5.35. The piston has been clapping the head due to the bearing failure due to oil issue.. It seems that you never notice this..
That’s LH bank cylinder #4
Great Video thank you! I purchased a 2003 Ford Focus LIMITED last week with 177 thousand kilometers on the odometer. After a engine flush and Synthetic 5W-20 oil and new filter the Engine started to tick a little....almost sounds like piston slap. Is this a know issue for these engines? Or is this my engine about to fail on me? The ticking sound is audible when hood of car is closed and when running at warm operating temperature while idling. I have no ENgine light on, the car drives like a dream, very smooth. It's just that sound! Please help
If the engine wasn't well maintained the new oil after a flush might be a bit thin for the tolerances. Could also be lifter tick. If the PO was running 5w-30 I'd go back to that.
Thinking about to swap a duratac 3l in fiat x1/9..
Hey pal i need help i have Got to Get a new head gasket in my 2005 escape xlt V6 3.0 124k
We have a 2000 Taurus and a 2002 Taurus with this engine. The 2000 is a good running engine but it has over 211,000 miles on it. The engine has has the oil pan gasket replaced as well as the valve cover gaskets replaced and it still leaks oil. Do you think it is coming from the rear main seal? It's hard to find these engines in the Taurus because most of them have the 3.0 Vulcan engine in them. (82% to be exact)
Front main and rear main can also leak, or if corners weren't sealed properly.
i need to change a blown head gasket... please help me with how to remove the timing chain with out knocking it out of time. i never removed one before and having bad trouble doing so and its causings a delay.
Ive never removed the timing chain on one of these but you don't want to just pull it off, there are no timing marks from the factory. what I would do is set it to TDC on cylinder 1 then put marks on the timing chain and sprockets so that you can line them back up. A paint pen works well for this as it won't come off too easily. The Cams may try to spin when you take the timing chain off. There are tools to hold them still. Be careful, if you get them even 1 tooth off it won't run right. I would use 2 marks on each sprocket just to make sure you get them lined back up. Don't take the chain completely off, use a bungie cord to hold it tight on the crank sprocket so it stays in the same spot.
Did shoot a vid of what the escape 3.0 sounded like befor you pulled the engine
Its in there breifly.
Hi mate I have just watched a couple of your videos on the duratec change out and clearly your guy to ask a couple of questions. I hope you have the time to answer.
I have a vacuum leak plus an oil leak on my 05 Mazda Tribute 3.0 litre duratec.
On inspection I have noticed the oil coming from the front hand head cover. I have decided to buy a full head gasket set (Victor Reinz) with spark plugs and ignition coils also the front and rear mounts are bad so I have grabbed them as well.
What is your opinion on the best way to install these? Would you leave the engine in or take it out? Also the car has done 170k kilometres Would you replace anything whilst your at it?
When I have dropped/changed the oil I haven't noticed anything to indicate the cylinder head gasket is blown but here in Australia just to get the intake/exhaust/plenum and head cover gaskets its the same cost as buying the whole kit from the states an I thought well I can either use all the gaskets now as I potentially am doing quite a big job just with the mounts and the head cover gaskets.
Oh and the car is on 175k kilometres and I have had to replace the PCV at the intake manifold because it had sucked in on itself and I bought the valve but was not able to get to it at that time so I have that and will replace it too on this big job.
+christian morrissey Headgaskets on these can be a pain, there Aren't proper timing marks to retime it when you put it back together. If your talking about the valve cover leaking then I would just replace that gasket and the intake gaskets.; I wouldn't try to replace head gaskets unless they're blown as that's just opening another can of worms. I would do everything in the car, no need to remove the engine.
+pfun41 thanks for your fast reply mate. I'll take your advice and leave the engine in and just do the valve cover and intake gaskets. Those 3 videos were really good and give very good insight and advice. Cheers mate
what is your favorite engine flush product? How about transmission flush? Amsoil?
No flush, flush tends to cause more problems than it solves. Seafoam or any of the knockoffs if you must.
Frequent oil changes with quality full synthetic oil and quality oil filter will keep the engine clean. If you have to flush a dirty engine, it's too late. Prevention is easier than cure.
got a 2003 tribute that eats oil and emits bluish white smoke that smells like oil yet runs smoothly and not a lot of clatter would this be from a stuck open PCV valve possibly or a more serious problem???
Well, the engine is certainly burning oil. Replace the pcv valve and pray it fixes it, otherwise you probably have serious internal engine damage.
Throw a PCV valve in there and see if it gets better. They're cheap and are supposed to be replaced as regular maintenance anyway. Also check the rubber elbows, they're known to deteriorate on these engines.
Thank you from Russia
Hello, very good video !. I have a Ford Mondeo 2.5l Duratec V6 that makes a noise when it is idling. I disarming a cover of valves noticed is very clean as if the oil does not rise, if you see my videos you will see one where the noise is heard.
nochezero Well it doesn't sound like a knock. A knock will get worse under throttle, yours goes away. Definately valvetrain related. I'd say probably a lifter. Any sludge buildup at all?
***** Thanks for responding, noise I hear it up I think if that can be dirt since he had put a very thick oil that may have covered some duct, the problem is that I have to get distribution and camshafts to clean and check that. How I can check the oil pressure? where does the bulb?
***** The PCV valve can be reconditioned in any way? here costs a lot to get them, you have a problem with the oil pump I will compicar enough.
nochezero
There is a switch threaded into the side of the block that detects oil pressure. If you remove it you can attach a mechanical oil pressure gauge. You may not have low oil pressure though, it might just be that oil can't get to the lifter or that the lifter has failed. If you pull the valve covers you can check the lifters. Push down on them with your finger. they should all be very firm, if you can push a installed lifter down by hand its bad. There is no way to recondition a PCV valve. you can clean it but replacement is best. I like to get parts from Rockauto or if they don't have that there Ebay.
***** Very grateful for your help, I mean that I can check the lifters without removing the camshaft? God wants to be just that is a car that I like da still worth seeing. Greetings from Argentina !.
hello do you have any vidos on how to get the motor out of the escape? and merry christmass to you
+paillight th-cam.com/video/cmg5XFVAfug/w-d-xo.html
+pfun41 thank you for the reply would it be easier for someone with a little experience to remove the motor and transmission at one time and do the same when installing the donor motor and transmission, i have the same noise coming from a 2006 ford escape
Your opinion if the car smokes 2000 Ford escape would you do the head work or just replace
2004xlt
If the pistons/rings are shot new engine. If its valve seals or guides I'd get rebuilt or used heads.
NIce MAn now i know what is happen in my car :P
I have an 04 escape with a knock that is so bad, it also stalls when I put it in drive and take my foot off the brake pedal. the car has been good to me, what do I do
Engine swap or sell it. I can't make decisions for you.
pfun41 ok, I'm in South Florida, how much is a good used engine and what do I look for
If you do it like I did and use a Taurus engine you can get them for 5-600 shipped all day long. Only thing is they'll only ship to businesses or a freight depot so you'll have to pick it up from there. Most Engines being sold online have been tested in some way. Usually a compression test or vacuum test. Get one with less miles than yours. Many are also from cars that were in wrecks which usually means the engine is in good shape.
Sorry didn't see this, I got mine from ebay, alot of auto dismantlers use them. Looks for detailed info on the vehicle it came out of, miles, and condition of the engine. They will vary based on mileage and what vehicle they are from. At the time I did this taruses were 400-600 and Escapes were 1k-1600.
pfun41 thank you
to replace the PCV valve on this engine must you remove the intake cover?
Intake has to come off.
It's best to do this when you change the plugs, coils, valve cover gaskets. It's a "while you're at it" job. Also check the torque on all of the cam cover bolts. @@pfun41
hope mine wont do it using castrol titanium
Hey buddy, do you still have that core or did you sell it/scrap it?
Scrapped it a long time ago. Nobody seems to want 3.0 parts.
Bummer. About 4 months ago my 2009 Escape decided to start sounding like this and not wanting to work right. Might end up having to rebuild at this point. Still not sure yet.
@@pfun41 Did you possibly at least keep the cams? I am rebuilding a '03 and cam gears are worn. They are not available anymore. Even when they were, they came only w/ the cams. So, am looking for some good cams/gears. Great Vid!
@@stangohr Try ebay. It's good for those hard to find pieces.
How many miles were on it
+matt berch 130k
Scrap it?? Why don't you rebuild it and sell it? There are a ton of vehicles out there that use this engine.
You can buy Good used 3.0 engines for 500$ all day long. They aren't very common in enthusiast cars either so people aren't usually picky about having rebuilt vs used. By the time you factor in the cost of parts and machine work its more expensive to rebuild an engine than to get a used one. Due to the large supply of 3.0 engines there is very low demand for a rebuilt unit. So basically I wouldn't make much if anything on it and it would take up alot of time which I didn't have. If I was going to rebuild It I would have just done that instead of swapping it.
Disposable motor. Like he said. All TTY (Torque to yield) bolts, you'll spend a fortune in fasteners alone. Sad but true fact. Cheaper to scrap and get a wrecked engine
ca u tellme about the crank shaft sproket it fits on two positions
Not looking forward to hitting 100k
use a light
YOU CAN NEVER SAY ANY OF THOSE PARTS ARE IN GOOD SHAPE JUST BY LOOKING AT THEM, ALL THE SERVICE LIMITS MUST BE CHECKED WITH THE PROPER TOOLS THE ONE PISTON AND SOMEONE THAT HAD A PROBLEM NOW NEEDS A NEW PISTON RINGS AND ROD AND BEARINGS REGARDLESS OF WHAT YOU SEE
He never showed it running wtf
You expect to see a running engine on a teardown video? It was torn out in the previous video and most of it scrapped after this.
pfun41 the new Taurus engine you put in duh common sense
@@lilp5872 Again , thats a completely different video:
th-cam.com/video/L9MfM3D86Mw/w-d-xo.html
Nothing to see here!!
I don't know for sure, but the video of the engine he has torn down shows holes drilled in the crank.
Not sure wtf I was thinking or if I was just drunk typing. Here's a rundown...There are only two crankshafts: one with a shallow bore hole in the rear with a short alignment bushing and one with a deep hole and long alignment bushing. This engine underwent a ton of variations between carmakers (particularly Mazda), so you never really knew what you got.
I have a 2005 Mazda 6 GT with the Duratec 30 in it. It's an absolute nightmare to work on. I've had to replace the alternator (which is tucked tightly under the exhaust manifold and the only access to it is by dropping half of the suspension on the right side), the starter, the EVAP tank (wanted to shoot myself by the end of that one) and spark plugs (which requires removing just about the entire top half of the motor due to lack of access to the plugs against the firewall.
Moral of the story: Stay the fuck away from this engine at all costs!!
My brother's wife just got rid her Escape with this POS engine in it.
Everyone that has those engines think they are great. They are powerful but I'm tired of working on the one I have.
3.0 Duratec is ultra reliable
I've got an 04 toyota corolla, and when investigating an intake problem, I noticed quite a bit of oil in the intake, and traced it back to the PCV. The PCV in the Toyota is metal,, but they just get gummed up and cant create a proper seal any more, and let oil past.