Great video. It's awesome that you were able to run an 8000 watt air conditioner for 3 hours with just a 100 ah battery using a 1500 inverter. I enjoy seeing an actual test instead of looking at numbers.
68 degrees outside and wants the room at 70 - no way 1000wh battery would power a 750w AC for 3 hours with the compresor on the whole time, like it would be on a 90 degree day.
When you looked on the nameplate specs and it said 24 amps. That was the amps for starting the unit with the compressor on. The term is LRA, which means Lock Rotor Amps. It is for the starting amps or the amps that the unit would pull if the compressor became locked up. I was an Electrical Contractor for 45 years and an Air Conditioning Contractor for 44 years.
@@rightmindwellness6254 I am nearly 75, I am going toward 74. Most of my career was when Freon 22 was about $30.00 to $60.00 a drum. Freon prices are crazy now. Retired now. Have a great day.
I have a 1 year old upright and it draws almost no extra current to start the compressor. Almost no surge amps, its the new technology, just like new sump pumps today. Their running watts are almost the same as the surge watts.
Thank you for making this great video. I am turning a cargo van into a camper. I have pretty much the same exact setup. This gave me peace of mind for my planning and I didn't have to buy any other components. I have a solar panel on my van that is 120 watts the charges the batteries during sunlight then I have a switch in place to use the vehicle battery an alternate each battery to run off the alternator individually water vehicles running to charge.
This is why I like this channel, real world testing. I watched the one where you powered a fridge too. I used my watt meter and did the math with a 5000 btu window unit and just using one 100ah battery would have given me about 4 hrs, but like you didn't take into account that the compressor doesn't run constantly. I use a Kreiger 2000/4000 inverter. Still, I went ahead and added a 2nd 100ah battery and an additional 100watt solar panel to be able to cover the usage should we have a power outage. Thanks for sharing all the stuff about this content it has helped me get started building my portable solar backup unit.
Thanks so much for the video . I just bought a van and set up the back like a camper . I think I'm gonna get a 400 ah battery and see if it will run all night and add solar panels on the roof to recharge during the day and not using the ac . I found a small black & decker portable ac unit, so I hope it uses less watts that the unit you are using. If I use a 2000 watt inverter instead of a 1500 inverter, do you think it will draw more power and not last as long as if I used a 1500 watt inverter ? This is for off grid camping .
@@OffGridBasementshould I just get the cheapest solar generator and just buy the higher wattage solar panels to draw power? Or will that not work because of the total capacity of generator? I’m new to this. I’m thinking about living off grid
@@youtubedeletesmychannels2329You need to do an energy audit to find out how much electricity is needed on a daily basis. Also, power stations are limited to the amount of solar power they can accept. Cheap ones are usually limited to 100 - 200w.
Hello friend. This ac obviously has inverter motor inside. My non inverter portable ac similar to yours but at 9000 BTU draws 4.4K inrush current. Its well known that inverter motors has minimum or even no inrush current at all that is why they are prefered especially for off grid set ups. Keep up the good work ! Greetings from Greece.
It does not say that it is inverter type compressor in the user manual for his GM-PAC-08E3 model number, it only costs about $300 so I doubt that it is inverter type compressor. It also does not say that 8000 Btu is ASHARE rated or SACC/DOE rated, for that price range it is more likely to be 5000 Btu SACC/DOE.
I would probably use a 3000 watt inverter then I may have power to keep my refrigerator running also. Might need more solar panels to keep up the demand. Thanks this information is valuable. 73
@ronb6182 I got a Vevor pure sine wave 2500 inverter, I run the portable 8000 A/C similar to this one on my 2004 VW Rialta, with my EUHOMY Car Refrigerator, 55Liter(59qt) RV refrigerator, and more, my set up is two 800 watt solar panels, and two 280Ah LiFePO4 lithium batteries. I'm currently chilling in the Yuma AZ desert 🏜
One thing to mention, a dual hose AC unit is way more efficient than a single hose like yours. That means you get to temp faster and stop sucking warm outside air into the room. Battery would last longer. Dual hose sucks outside air into the unit, takes the condenser heat and blows it out the exit duct. Single hose units like yours blows the hot air out, but where does the intake air come from…..that’s right your room just became a slight vacuum and is sucking in warm air from any cracks or door gaps.
@@OffGridBasementpracer1 is correct, but the heat imparted from this exhaust pipe back into the room is another large factor of inefficiency, this is why this portable type A/Con are the most inefficient type to use, save the fact this is a inverter type which helps greatly with startup current, etc. A window type is more efficient and a inverter split system is still better even if it is oversized, it will quickly reduce/increase temp and then derate down to a reduced capacity (watts used). I am an Aussie, so we use 240vac. I have a 2.5Kw split in a 40’ bus on a 24v system and it works great in either mode and does not use as much power as I was expecting it to, it will ramp up to 1500-1800w max for 10-15 mins & then settle back to around 500-600w before cycling around a 100w with fan only after 20-30mins. One more thing is to go for the newer propane based gas type (R32) inverter splits for better efficiency. Cheers hope this helps.
Thank you for that insightful information. I did not know that. I will look for a dual hose unit. Do you have a dual hose unit you can recommend for my DIY Overland Camper?
But isn't a single-hose unit recycling the already cooled air while the dual-hose unit is sucking in hot outside air and trying to cool it? Single hose seems more efficient.
Would love to see this redone with solar panels... how many are needed to keep it running for at least 1.5 - 2 days. Plus cooking from a instapot... Cheers!
That was an excellent test. It's good information to know if the power should go off. We all know it doesn't take long for the house to heat up on a hot day with no a/c. Thank you for a timely video. Btw, you're very welcome for the air conditioner. I'm happy it's working out for you.❤
BTW, if you plug a 120v surge *suppressor* (not a surge protector) into that 500w inverter, you'll likely be able to run the AC without it shutting down. It's that initial surge that shuts the inverter off. I use a 300w inverter to run a fridge with a cheap 120v Westinghouse suppressor and it works fine.
I would also add that researching "Solar Generators" that have at least 1.2 kW capacity (same as your 12v 100 ah scenario) might be a "better" solution. Something with built in MPPT solar controller and efficient pure sine wave inverter. Appreciate the video as I did not want to get a LARGE solar generator for whole house "hurricane prep". I already have a 12,000 BTU portable A/C like you show there and think it would be better just to A/C the bedroom in case of power loss. BTW, the reason there wasn't a large surge was because these units use inverter style compressor systems.
That's an impressively low voltage drop on the SOK for a such large load. 3.24V under 50A+ is pretty solid. Definitely clear SOK is using quality cells.
The LRA Locked Rotor Amperage is the amount of current that an electric motor will draw when it is started. All electric motors have the same characteristic of requiring a vary large inrush of current to start the rotor turning. This inrush will typically be 3 to 4 times the running amperage of the motor and after the motor has reached rated speed, the current will fall to the running amperage so this unit will take 24 amps (115 x 24 =) 2760 watts to start and about 700 watts of continuous draw after the motors have come up to speed. This is important because you would want use an inverter (no battery) or generator to run the unit. You would want to ensure that the inverter or generator had the peak capacity for the LRA of the unit.
The other thing your missing is the start up surge. A plug in watt meter will not show that, only a good VOM with logging/tracking will. When I was testing my chest freezer, it only pulled 90w while running but had an 850w kick on surge (for about 2 seconds), but my 500w inverter couldn't start it up. I bet your AC unit has a 1,000w kick on surge
The run time test is not realistic unless the outside temperature was hotter than inside. That way, the AC has to remove the heat coming into the room through the walls. If its colder outside, the room would cool down on it's own without the AC running.
I attempted to fix that problem by heating the room to the upper 80's. I knew from the start that the outside air was going to affect the results as stated in the video. I plan on doing the test again to see if the results are different when it's 90⁰ or more outside. Thanks for the comment.
It kept the room cool for 3 hours, but the actual run-time of the A/C compressor was much less (maybe 45 minutes to an hour). It has to do with Duty Cycle, but still a great demo, thanks for posting this.
I use a 300ah Ampere Time, 2000w inverter and the old school manual controls 5000 btu Frigidare. It draws 400w max. I can connect it to solar but typically use a 20 amp wall charger to top it off before storms. If I sit right in front of it and set the thermostat properly I can get 20 hours of run time fairly easy. It uses 50 watts max with only the fan.
put a bucket for the drain in back. you will have to dump it often unless you make a pump that runs and pumps the water out the window automatically when it becomes full enough. Alternatively if you put the water from it thru a water filter to purify the water for drinking.
I think that power measurement device (I have the same one) will not measure the surge power, because it only measures once every few seconds, whereas the surge only lasts like half a second. You’ll need an AC clamp meter set on max measurement mode to properly measure this.
I'll need to find something so we can use a smaller battery and a solar panel to use the AC unit. That would make for an interesting experiment. Thanks for the comment!
Great Video! Simple real life experience with a 100 amp hour battery. Not a 400 or 600 amp hour expensive set up. Just a 100 amp hour battery. All I need is about 5 to 6 hours of AC time at night. Hoping I can use my Solar during the day….. to some extent. I wonder if that unit is efficient or can you buy a very efficient model, to make it last even longer. Great information
Thanks! This unit is actually pretty ineffective, but it works well. I made another video of running the same setup but at 75⁰. Thanks for the comment.
I really enjoyed this video, real time real results. You answered a major question I had about my own 500 watt air conditioner I use in my cabin. Now I know what I need for batteries at night. My solar will keep the batteries charged through the day usage of the air no biggy but im guessing day two i might have to have the generator help charge the batteries faster than the solar will and im good with that. Thanks for the video.
Thank you so much for your demonstration. My wife and I found ourselves waving to your kid, I guess we miss when our boys were young. I have a B-class Roadtrek Rv has an 8k BTU A/C with 1 on board Battery that powers lights and recharges while driving or on shore power. Do you think if I add an 2k watt inverter it will power my A/C and will it charge it when driving it. Or will jt only drain or charge depending on what you’re using it for?I want to be able to use my A/C when diving my RV without the generator. Thank you again cool Channel !
Thank you! I'm not sure if your alternator \ charger could keep up with the power of the AC unit. Connected to shore power would be no problem. You need to find out the power draw from the AC unit and then find out the charging power of your RV alt\charger to find out. Sorry I can't help out more. Thanks for the comment!
gotta take into account 70 deg in an emergency is overkill. keeping the temp at about 78 deg would be way more ideal, so who knows how long it'd run. really depends on the insulation and temp drop in an hour, based on external temp and how many people are in the room heating it up too.
I did another video with a room temp of 75 degrees. I think the amount of time doubled... no sure. Here is the link to that video. th-cam.com/video/VdIihLIJvrg/w-d-xo.html
Purchased: August 2022 - still works GREAT! th-cam.com/users/postUgkxxsUnXhGsSJLim_XnMHyQK0u3XVaW-CGn I live in a studio and during the summer it gets scorching hot - really old building with no ac units. I can’t express how EASY it was to install.This unit has been a life savior during the summer and some days during other seasons where it can still be a bit warm at night. In this small place is my friend, a husky, poodle mix and myself. We need AC - lolI don’t use the dehumidifier option - I’m not sure if it will leak in my house, since I did not install the small draining hose that came with it. May look into it late but I don’t worry about much humidity in the apartment.I don’t understand why the negative reviews since all things mentioned, I personally did not find issues with. Definitely worth it!
Thank you for the test. This helped me. I have to say, I mean this as a compliment, I think you look kind of like Bill Murray when he was way younger heh
It would be interesting to see the same test, but with the battery charger hooked up to the battery and charging at the same time. I wonder how much longer the battery would last. Thanks I enjoyed your video.
Only one problem with the whole experiment, the heater should have been set at 70 and left running to mimic the outdoor heat. Or run the test again when it is 90 outside. It would be very disappointing to have the power cut off, and then find it is not up to par for more than 2 hrs.
There are so many variables in this experiment that I can't control. It would be different for a house with 20 year old windows or even a room on the first floor. I'm just trying to give a ballpark average of what you could expect. Thanks for the comment.
I set up the same system.However, 500w power comsumption is weird.Because a 8000btu battery consumes 850-900watt power.It means 300ah battery makes it work for 5 hrs total.
I got a mini split about two weeks ago i set it on eco..that keeps the temp at 79 ..i understand thats high for some ppl but its perfect for us especially if its 90 or higher outside it fills really good but it only pulls about 200 watts all the time during the day and shuts off about 20 min after the sun goes down and usually does not kick back on at night and i just have 4, 6 volt batteries wired two make two 12 volt batterys 200 amp hour each deep cycle so its pretty crap battery storage but it keeps us cool all night. if you call 79 cool lol
Hey, whatever works for ya! I did another test with the AC set to 75⁰ and was surprised by the results. Video will be out soon. Thanks for the comment.
👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿 i needed this soooo bad. Finally, a real world non-nerdy presentation of AC on lithium. So would i be correct to extrapolate that 4 of those SOK would last 8+ (maybe 12) hours? Also can you do a recharge video of that SOK now that you depleted it? Thats my other piece of the puzzle i need. Thank you so much
You're welcome! I'm glad you got something out of it. Since I started the test in a very hot room I would think you could get 3 hours per 100ah battery easily. I plan on doing more test videos with different room temperatures to see if I can get more runtime out of the battery. I have another video on how to "wake up" a lifepo4 battery here: th-cam.com/video/j2JjOpq50MI/w-d-xo.html Hope this helps!
I live off solar I would say if you would of had a 100 watt solar panel in that window with a cheap controller you could go all day into the night :-).
Great video. My Inveters AIMS PWRI200012120S 2000W 12V, and the LEESKY 2000W 12V (same as yours, but mine had wrong wiring on the GFCI outlets, the Hot and Neutral are reversed) can start my Hisense A/C - Heat pump model AP55023HR1GD (8000 Btu SACC) with no issue, it has LRA (Locked Rotor Amps) of 43A!, 8.75 running Amp. BTW, per user manual of your GM-PAC-08E3, it does not indicate if the 8000 Btu is ASHRAE or SACC/DOE rating. It is not an inverter type compressor, it looks to be 5000 Btu SACC/DOE A/C .
Thanks for the information, Bud. I need to find the manual for it. I do want to do another test with the AC at higher temps to see if it will last longer. Knowing the correct info is very important.
Great video I have a 12000 BTU minisplit AC 220v can you tell me what wattage inverter I need I believe it is 16Amps And a guess how long the battery will last Thanks
220v x 16amps would be 3520 watts. i would think a minimum 6000-7000 watt peak inverter or more, definately more = better. a 12v 100ah battery would only last about 20 minutes, most likely less with inverter losses.
If it does pull 16 amps at 220v then you are looking at a wattage draw of 3520. I didn't see an amp surge on my AC but you might have one. 4000w inverter minimum would be my recommendation. Hope this helps.
If you run that same test and use the 3000 Watt Inverter you will get different ( better results) * if its a quality unit * A more powerful inverter doesn't need to work as hard to produce 600-650 watts on the constant. Try it 🎉
@@OffGridBasement I set it to 61°. Thats the lowest setting this AC will set to. The compressor doesn’t turn off ever. It. Runs about 2 hours on 12v 100AH.
1 400 watt solar panel to recharge while using and it will run all day Panel would provide 400 and battery the remaining 200 until setpoint. Then panel can both run ac and charge
I say double. Around 900w. The fuse depends on the size of wiring. For 2 awg wiring I would go with a 150A fuse. Hope this helps. Thanks for the comment.
It would be, but the results would be so flexible. It really depends on the season, time of day, direction of panels... This is at least a baseline. Thanks for the comment!
Nice test. Obviously there are a lot of factors that can afford the outcome but at least it shows some real world results. Do you like that battery charger you’re using. I watched your review on it. I know it can do multiple battery types
I just bought a Velit 12V air conditioner for my van, I don’t know what battery array I need to get.. I do not know much about electrical, amps, wattage and voltage all of that. Would you recommend a battery array that can run a Velit 12v AC?
From what I could fine the 12v AC unit pulls around 75 amps. That is around 960w. Every 100ah battery would last a bit over an hour. Remember that once the temp get down, it won't run on full 100% of the time. i would say start with 200ah of lifepo4 batteries. That probably would give you around 4 hours without charging. Hope this helps.
If I were to have 2 Batteries in parallel with the same inverter, how much solar wattage and components would I need to recharge the batteries. Would like to do this set up with more power and recharge it.
The only reason I don't is because the results would vary depending on weather. One day I might get an extra hour. The next day I might get an extra four hours. Thanks for the comment.
You should only discharge SLA to 50% so I'm guessing 1.5 hours at best. I'm not sure if the initial draw would drop the voltage too low so the inverter would shut down. That would be my big concern. Hope this helps and thanks for the comment.
I actually just bought a 100W solar panel kit from harbor freight! I'm using my 12 volt marine battery with it and am currently getting about 12 hours straight. I am also using a 5000 inverter, hope this helps
A typical 20a charger will fill it up in 5 hours. Yes you could use solar panels. Honestly you would need around 800w to run the unit and charge the battery. Hope this helps. Thanks for the comment.
Be curious to see how long it would last if it started around 74 and kept at 74. 3 hrs isn’t bad though. If that went up to 5 with a precooled room be even better. I’m thinking for ex use Solar to bring it down to as low as it would go and then keep it cool all night. I like these experiments.
i guess its a good test but if i do a test like this i always like to have my battery(s) being charge at the same time. My system right now to Run my AC is my Delta Mini connected to 48 volt Valence batteries. The batteries keep the Delta Mini charging and has only lost about 20% because the Delta Mini only accepts 300 Watts of solar. My AC draws over 300 Watts so there is a small lost of power.
That is great! That is exactly how it should be done. I really just wanted to show the minimum amount of running time you can get. I would like to further the testing to show how to possibly double the amount of running time. Thanks for the comment.
Hello! I need some advice please. I have a Split Air Con wall mount AC. I want to power it by solar energy (so I can reduce my electric bill) I live in a tropical climate so we get sunlight almost every day of the year. I did some research and thought to put together a solar system with, - 3x (560W) JA solar panels - 3.2KW Hybrid Solar Inverter 230Vac PV Start Voltage 30Voc Built In 80A MPPT Solar Charge Controller 50/60Hz Auto Pure Sine Wave Inverter - 1x (12V/120AH) ROSEN GEL DEEP CYCLE BATTERY (I only need it during day time, night time it's cold here so I can manage without AC) If you're familiar or an expert on Solar and AC related stuff, I'd appreciate some pointers. I want to know if these components be enough to power the Air Con during day time? Thank you in advance! Specs (of Outdoor unit I guess), - Refrigerant R410A/500g - Capacity 9000 BTU - Rated Voltage 220-240V~ - Standard input power 870W - Rated Frequency 50Hz - Standard input current 4.0A - Air Flow Volume 450m/h - Locked rotor current 19A - Rated Power EN60335 1080W - Rated current EN60335 5.0A Specs (Indoor Unit), - Standard input power 33W - Rated voltage 220-240V~ - Standard input current 0.2A - Rated frequency 50Hz
Things look pretty good except for only using 1 battery. The max charge current for that battery is around 20-30A and the solar set could burn it up pretty fast. I would suggest thinking about getting at least 3 to 4 batteries. I hope that gives you a little bit more help. Good luck!
You can email me at jim@off-grid-basement.com if you have a few questions. I usually don't go into extensive questioning, but I should be able to point you in the right direction.
any recommendations for a 500 watt inverter with maybe a 800watt surge? not looking to run a full size fridge or heater/ac. my plasma tv runs around 250 watts.
From what I've looked at it's hard to find a small inverter like that with surge capability. You would be better off getting a 1000w inverter. My 500w inverter fails right at 500w! Anything from Reliable is good in my book. Hope this helps. Thanks for the comment.
A 100ah battery is really only supposed to max out at around 1300w. You should really only run your inverter and battery @ 50% for extended periods or it will shorten the life span. Hope that helps. Thanks for the comment!
@@OffGridBasement I was asking since my electric 18 gallon water heater has a 1500watt heating element so I wouldn't be running the battery all day in with it.
Another way to think of this. You just used about 1kwh of electricity, which from the utility company would cost about 20 cents (at least it would for me). If you managed to get 2000 cycles out of your battery (assuming you could charge it for free), then you would be getting 2000 x 20 cents = $400 worth of electricity over the life of the battery. A battery for convenience is very useful, but if it came to using a battery to save money then these calculations need to be done very carefully.
I figured 600w of solar would make it run through the day. That is if it is a nice sunny day. Cloudy day would need upwards of 2000w in my opinion. Hope this helps. Thanks for the comment.
I believe cold cranking amps are way different than the total ah of the battery. More car batteries are around 100A. If you use a car battery in that fashion you will probably only get about 30 charge cycles.
If as you mentioned it was 90 outside mid day it may have run for 1 hour .. 1.5 hours tops.. radiant heat from outside at 90 in mid day sun,, oh yeah... an hour to 1,5 tops...
That's a rough call. If they all fired up at the same time then you're probably looking at a 5k minimum. For something like that you would really need to do a power audit to get a real idea. Sorry I can't help more.
Yes, but it would take several days of good sun. I'm guessing about 15 hours of sunshine. If you could get a constant 100w from the panel it would take 12.8 hours.
@@OffGridBasement my Dr prepare battery only gets to 3 bars out of 4 and won't get any higher off solar.. guessing charge off a normal charger would have different results
Honestly, I don't think I have much control of that. I really don't mess with the advertising part. I just click on "yes" when it asks me if I want to monetize.
@@OffGridBasement I understand and I will still watch your videos as they are very informative, but I did check my other subscriptions and almost all have ads but seldom do they start out with one, let alone 2.
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Great video. It's awesome that you were able to run an 8000 watt air conditioner for 3 hours with just a 100 ah battery using a 1500 inverter. I enjoy seeing an actual test instead of looking at numbers.
They're more enjoyable to create as well! Thanks for the comment.
Same. Testing by real people all day any day.
I think it's 8000btu not 8000w.
68 degrees outside and wants the room at 70 - no way 1000wh battery would power a 750w AC for 3 hours with the compresor on the whole time, like it would be on a 90 degree day.
@@onthe80omwabsolutely correct
When you looked on the nameplate specs and it said 24 amps. That was the amps for starting the unit with the compressor on. The term is LRA, which means Lock Rotor Amps. It is for the starting amps or the amps that the unit would pull if the compressor became locked up. I was an Electrical Contractor for 45 years and an Air Conditioning Contractor for 44 years.
Thank you for the information and the comment.
I’m an ac contractor 23years you must be 75yo
@@rightmindwellness6254 I am nearly 75, I am going toward 74. Most of my career was when Freon 22 was about $30.00 to $60.00 a drum. Freon prices are crazy now. Retired now. Have a great day.
Thats why inverter units are better it doesn't use starting amps just runs continuously
I have a 1 year old upright and it draws almost no extra current to start the compressor. Almost no surge amps, its the new technology, just like new sump pumps today. Their running watts are almost the same as the surge watts.
This is good to know for those who would like to do something similar to keep an RV cool for their animals while they shop, take a short hike, etc.
That's a good point. Thanks for the comment.
You have no idea how much this video helped me
That's great to hear! Thanks for the comment!
I love how you take your time to show how you got to your conclusion ❤
I'm glad you appreciated it. Thanks for the comment.
Thank you for making this great video. I am turning a cargo van into a camper. I have pretty much the same exact setup. This gave me peace of mind for my planning and I didn't have to buy any other components. I have a solar panel on my van that is 120 watts the charges the batteries during sunlight then I have a switch in place to use the vehicle battery an alternate each battery to run off the alternator individually water vehicles running to charge.
Thanks for sharing and the comment!
I’m new to gathering solar test results. Thank you for sharing your findings and helping me to determine consistent ways to perform my own tests!
You're welcome and thanks for the comment!
This is why I like this channel, real world testing. I watched the one where you powered a fridge too. I used my watt meter and did the math with a 5000 btu window unit and just using one 100ah battery would have given me about 4 hrs, but like you didn't take into account that the compressor doesn't run constantly. I use a Kreiger 2000/4000 inverter. Still, I went ahead and added a 2nd 100ah battery and an additional 100watt solar panel to be able to cover the usage should we have a power outage. Thanks for sharing all the stuff about this content it has helped me get started building my portable solar backup unit.
I'm happy to hear you appreciated it. It sounds like you are well on your way to having a very useful system. Thanks for the info and the comment.
Thanks so much for the video . I just bought a van and set up the back like a camper . I think I'm gonna get a 400 ah battery and see if it will run all night and add solar panels on the roof to recharge during the day and not using the ac . I found a small black & decker portable ac unit, so I hope it uses less watts that the unit you are using. If I use a 2000 watt inverter instead of a 1500 inverter, do you think it will draw more power and not last as long as if I used a 1500 watt inverter ? This is for off grid camping .
I'm starting to look into solar power for a small RV. This is so helpful. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the comment.
@@OffGridBasementshould I just get the cheapest solar generator and just buy the higher wattage solar panels to draw power? Or will that not work because of the total capacity of generator? I’m new to this. I’m thinking about living off grid
@@youtubedeletesmychannels2329You need to do an energy audit to find out how much electricity is needed on a daily basis. Also, power stations are limited to the amount of solar power they can accept. Cheap ones are usually limited to 100 - 200w.
I was dying for this information! Thank you so much for the video. SUBSCRIBED!!! 🙏
I'm glad you found the video useful! Thanks for the sub and the comment.
Hello friend. This ac obviously has inverter motor inside. My non inverter portable ac similar to yours but at 9000 BTU draws 4.4K inrush current. Its well known that inverter motors has minimum or even no inrush current at all that is why they are prefered especially for off grid set ups. Keep up the good work ! Greetings from Greece.
That thing is still sitting on my basement floor. I'll get to it at some point.
It does not say that it is inverter type compressor in the user manual for his GM-PAC-08E3 model number, it only costs about $300 so I doubt that it is inverter type compressor. It also does not say that 8000 Btu is ASHARE rated or SACC/DOE rated, for that price range it is more likely to be 5000 Btu SACC/DOE.
I find it highly doubtful too. My tiny mini fridge pulls 1200 watt when it turns on. Something is off. Id love to know what and why.
I would probably use a 3000 watt inverter then I may have power to keep my refrigerator running also. Might need more solar panels to keep up the demand. Thanks this information is valuable. 73
@ronb6182 I got a Vevor pure sine wave 2500 inverter, I run the portable 8000 A/C similar to this one on my 2004 VW Rialta, with my EUHOMY Car Refrigerator, 55Liter(59qt) RV refrigerator, and more, my set up is two 800 watt solar panels, and two 280Ah LiFePO4 lithium batteries.
I'm currently chilling in the Yuma AZ desert 🏜
One thing to mention, a dual hose AC unit is way more efficient than a single hose like yours. That means you get to temp faster and stop sucking warm outside air into the room. Battery would last longer. Dual hose sucks outside air into the unit, takes the condenser heat and blows it out the exit duct. Single hose units like yours blows the hot air out, but where does the intake air come from…..that’s right your room just became a slight vacuum and is sucking in warm air from any cracks or door gaps.
I never thought about the vacuum effect. That is a good point. Thanks for the info and the comment.
@@OffGridBasementpracer1 is correct, but the heat imparted from this exhaust pipe back into the room is another large factor of inefficiency, this is why this portable type A/Con are the most inefficient type to use, save the fact this is a inverter type which helps greatly with startup current, etc. A window type is more efficient and a inverter split system is still better even if it is oversized, it will quickly reduce/increase temp and then derate down to a reduced capacity (watts used).
I am an Aussie, so we use 240vac. I have a 2.5Kw split in a 40’ bus on a 24v system and it works great in either mode and does not use as much power as I was expecting it to, it will ramp up to 1500-1800w max for 10-15 mins & then settle back to around 500-600w before cycling around a 100w with fan only after 20-30mins. One more thing is to go for the newer propane based gas type (R32) inverter splits for better efficiency. Cheers hope this helps.
Thank you for that insightful information. I did not know that. I will look for a dual hose unit. Do you have a dual hose unit you can recommend for my DIY Overland Camper?
But isn't a single-hose unit recycling the already cooled air while the dual-hose unit is sucking in hot outside air and trying to cool it? Single hose seems more efficient.
@@BillySBC I think he's completely wrong. I have a dual hose and I'm pretty sure both hoses are exhaust.
Thanks for the video. Always good to see real world results.
You're very welcome. Thanks for the comment.
Would love to see this redone with solar panels... how many are needed to keep it running for at least 1.5 - 2 days. Plus cooking from a instapot... Cheers!
Great suggestion! Thanks for the comment.
Very useful demonstration. I’m going to be going off grid with a portable AC soon
Glad it might give you some insight. Thanks for the comment.
Try opening the windows to cool the room. 😜
@@VTLibtard or drive faster
That was an excellent test. It's good information to know if the power should go off. We all know it doesn't take long for the house to heat up on a hot day with no a/c. Thank you for a timely video.
Btw, you're very welcome for the air conditioner. I'm happy it's working out for you.❤
We use it every night for our bedroom and it works great! Thank you so much!
@Off Grid Basement You're welcome, Jim.
LRA is your locked rotor amps. The initial start up amps that the AC is going to draw to get it going.
Thanks for the info and the comment.
Wouldn’t 24Amps trip a 15-20 amp breaker? 24 seems a lot high. That’s 2500+watts. No way.
Great channel, love these practical, real life tests.
Glad you like them! Thanks for the comment!
BTW, if you plug a 120v surge *suppressor* (not a surge protector) into that 500w inverter, you'll likely be able to run the AC without it shutting down. It's that initial surge that shuts the inverter off. I use a 300w inverter to run a fridge with a cheap 120v Westinghouse suppressor and it works fine.
Thanks for the information and the comment!
I would also add that researching "Solar Generators" that have at least 1.2 kW capacity (same as your 12v 100 ah scenario) might be a "better" solution. Something with built in MPPT solar controller and efficient pure sine wave inverter. Appreciate the video as I did not want to get a LARGE solar generator for whole house "hurricane prep". I already have a 12,000 BTU portable A/C like you show there and think it would be better just to A/C the bedroom in case of power loss.
BTW, the reason there wasn't a large surge was because these units use inverter style compressor systems.
Or an EG4 solar DC solar hvac unit.
@@halledwardb didn't know of these, thanks
I do plan on building on this idea to see if I can double the running time and still have a comfortable room. Thanks for the info and the comment.
The best test was just to put the cool on maximum and let it run to the battery dies probably less than 1 hour
That's an impressively low voltage drop on the SOK for a such large load. 3.24V under 50A+ is pretty solid. Definitely clear SOK is using quality cells.
It really is a nice battery. Definitely worth the money IMO. Thanks for the comment.
Thank you I’m planning to go off grid and you simplified my ac solar questions.
You're welcome. Thanks for the comment!
The LRA Locked Rotor Amperage is the amount of current that an electric motor will draw when it is started. All electric motors have the same characteristic of requiring a vary large inrush of current to start the rotor turning. This inrush will typically be 3 to 4 times the running amperage of the motor and after the motor has reached rated speed, the current will fall to the running amperage so this unit will take 24 amps (115 x 24 =) 2760 watts to start and about 700 watts of continuous draw after the motors have come up to speed. This is important because you would want use an inverter (no battery) or generator to run the unit. You would want to ensure that the inverter or generator had the peak capacity for the LRA of the unit.
Thanks for the info and the comment.
The other thing your missing is the start up surge. A plug in watt meter will not show that, only a good VOM with logging/tracking will. When I was testing my chest freezer, it only pulled 90w while running but had an 850w kick on surge (for about 2 seconds), but my 500w inverter couldn't start it up. I bet your AC unit has a 1,000w kick on surge
Thanks for the info and the comment.
The run time test is not realistic unless the outside temperature was hotter than inside. That way, the AC has to remove the heat coming into the room through the walls. If its colder outside, the room would cool down on it's own without the AC running.
I attempted to fix that problem by heating the room to the upper 80's. I knew from the start that the outside air was going to affect the results as stated in the video. I plan on doing the test again to see if the results are different when it's 90⁰ or more outside. Thanks for the comment.
It kept the room cool for 3 hours, but the actual run-time of the A/C compressor was much less (maybe 45 minutes to an hour). It has to do with Duty Cycle, but still a great demo, thanks for posting this.
True. The compressor would shut off when it sensed the room temp was reached, but the fan runs continuously. Thanks for the comment.
Great video. Insulate wrap and/or shorten that hot AC exhaust hose and should get more efficient cooling.
Thanks for the tips!
If you added alot of solar panels you think you can run it 24/7 and while the battery stay charged!! Love the show!!!
Easily. The problem would be at night. You would need enough battery storage to last until the sun came back up. Thanks for the comment.
I use a 300ah Ampere Time, 2000w inverter and the old school manual controls 5000 btu Frigidare. It draws 400w max. I can connect it to solar but typically use a 20 amp wall charger to top it off before storms. If I sit right in front of it and set the thermostat properly I can get 20 hours of run time fairly easy. It uses 50 watts max with only the fan.
That is great! Thanks for the info and the comment.
put a bucket for the drain in back. you will have to dump it often unless you make a pump that runs and pumps the water out the window automatically when it becomes full enough. Alternatively if you put the water from it thru a water filter to purify the water for drinking.
Thank you for the info and the comment.
I think that power measurement device (I have the same one) will not measure the surge power, because it only measures once every few seconds, whereas the surge only lasts like half a second. You’ll need an AC clamp meter set on max measurement mode to properly measure this.
You're right. I'll need to fashion a short extension cord with exposed wires for this purpose. Thanks for the comment.
Appreciate your efforts to show us
My pleasure! Thanks for the comment.
...just multiply your AC amperage by 10x and you'll have what the 12V will need to push. So, that a/c unit requires 67 amperes of 12V power to run.
Thank you for the information and comment.
Starters help tremendously
I'll need to find something so we can use a smaller battery and a solar panel to use the AC unit. That would make for an interesting experiment. Thanks for the comment!
Great Video! Simple real life experience with a 100 amp hour battery. Not a 400 or 600 amp hour expensive set up. Just a 100 amp hour battery. All I need is about 5 to 6 hours of AC time at night. Hoping I can use my Solar during the day….. to some extent. I wonder if that unit is efficient or can you buy a very efficient model, to make it last even longer. Great information
Thanks! This unit is actually pretty ineffective, but it works well. I made another video of running the same setup but at 75⁰. Thanks for the comment.
I really enjoyed this video, real time real results. You answered a major question I had about my own 500 watt air conditioner I use in my cabin. Now I know what I need for batteries at night. My solar will keep the batteries charged through the day usage of the air no biggy but im guessing day two i might have to have the generator help charge the batteries faster than the solar will and im good with that. Thanks for the video.
I'm glad the video helped with some questions you had. Thanks for the comment.
Not saying Aunt Bev's crooked. She may simply APPEAR to be crooked. Glad this is getting more attention. 👍
Haha! Thanks for the comment.
Thank you very much! this is exactly what I'm looking for.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the comment.
Awesome video, very practical information.
I have applied some of your thought on these videos
Thank you
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the comment.
Finally a real world review without all of the math problems to figure out.
Glad you got something out of it! Thanks for the comment.
Thank you so much for your demonstration. My wife and I found ourselves waving to your kid, I guess we miss when our boys were young. I have a B-class Roadtrek Rv has an 8k BTU A/C with 1 on board Battery that powers lights and recharges while driving or on shore power. Do you think if I add an 2k watt inverter it will power my A/C and will it charge it when driving it. Or will jt only drain or charge depending on what you’re using it for?I want to be able to use my A/C when diving my RV without the generator. Thank you again cool Channel !
Thank you! I'm not sure if your alternator \ charger could keep up with the power of the AC unit. Connected to shore power would be no problem. You need to find out the power draw from the AC unit and then find out the charging power of your RV alt\charger to find out. Sorry I can't help out more. Thanks for the comment!
@@OffGridBasement thank you this helps me tremendously , I will do this !
gotta take into account 70 deg in an emergency is overkill. keeping the temp at about 78 deg would be way more ideal, so who knows how long it'd run. really depends on the insulation and temp drop in an hour, based on external temp and how many people are in the room heating it up too.
I did another video with a room temp of 75 degrees. I think the amount of time doubled... no sure. Here is the link to that video. th-cam.com/video/VdIihLIJvrg/w-d-xo.html
Purchased: August 2022 - still works GREAT! th-cam.com/users/postUgkxxsUnXhGsSJLim_XnMHyQK0u3XVaW-CGn I live in a studio and during the summer it gets scorching hot - really old building with no ac units. I can’t express how EASY it was to install.This unit has been a life savior during the summer and some days during other seasons where it can still be a bit warm at night. In this small place is my friend, a husky, poodle mix and myself. We need AC - lolI don’t use the dehumidifier option - I’m not sure if it will leak in my house, since I did not install the small draining hose that came with it. May look into it late but I don’t worry about much humidity in the apartment.I don’t understand why the negative reviews since all things mentioned, I personally did not find issues with. Definitely worth it!
Good to hear and thanks for the comment!
Thank you for the test. This helped me. I have to say, I mean this as a compliment, I think you look kind of like Bill Murray when he was way younger heh
Haha! That's a first! I'm glad you got some information from the video. Thanks for the comment.
It would be interesting to see the same test, but with the battery charger hooked up to the battery and charging at the same time. I wonder how much longer the battery would last. Thanks I enjoyed your video.
I plan on doing a follow up with it connected to 100w of solar. Thanks for the comment.
Only one problem with the whole experiment, the heater should have been set at 70 and left running to mimic the outdoor heat. Or run the test again when it is 90 outside. It would be very disappointing to have the power cut off, and then find it is not up to par for more than 2 hrs.
There are so many variables in this experiment that I can't control. It would be different for a house with 20 year old windows or even a room on the first floor. I'm just trying to give a ballpark average of what you could expect. Thanks for the comment.
I set up the same system.However, 500w power comsumption is weird.Because a 8000btu battery consumes 850-900watt power.It means 300ah battery makes it work for 5 hrs total.
I'm going to be doing the same test with a 5k window unit soon. I'll make sure to compare the results. Thanks for the comment.
I got a mini split about two weeks ago i set it on eco..that keeps the temp at 79 ..i understand thats high for some ppl but its perfect for us especially if its 90 or higher outside it fills really good but it only pulls about 200 watts all the time during the day and shuts off about 20 min after the sun goes down and usually does not kick back on at night and i just have 4, 6 volt batteries wired two make two 12 volt batterys 200 amp hour each deep cycle so its pretty crap battery storage but it keeps us cool all night. if you call 79 cool lol
Hey, whatever works for ya! I did another test with the AC set to 75⁰ and was surprised by the results. Video will be out soon. Thanks for the comment.
@@OffGridBasement alright I would like to see it. I am going to sub and hit that 🔔
👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿 i needed this soooo bad. Finally, a real world non-nerdy presentation of AC on lithium. So would i be correct to extrapolate that 4 of those SOK would last 8+ (maybe 12) hours? Also can you do a recharge video of that SOK now that you depleted it? Thats my other piece of the puzzle i need. Thank you so much
You're welcome! I'm glad you got something out of it. Since I started the test in a very hot room I would think you could get 3 hours per 100ah battery easily. I plan on doing more test videos with different room temperatures to see if I can get more runtime out of the battery. I have another video on how to "wake up" a lifepo4 battery here: th-cam.com/video/j2JjOpq50MI/w-d-xo.html
Hope this helps!
Comp. LRA = Locked-Rotor-Amps. The compressor Amps draw if rotation fails to begin.
Thanks for the information and the comment.
I live off solar I would say if you would of had a 100 watt solar panel in that window with a cheap controller you could go all day into the night :-).
I plan on doing that exact test this summer! Thanks for the comment.
Great video. My Inveters AIMS PWRI200012120S 2000W 12V, and the LEESKY 2000W 12V (same as yours, but mine had wrong wiring on the GFCI outlets, the Hot and Neutral are reversed) can start my Hisense A/C - Heat pump model AP55023HR1GD (8000 Btu SACC) with no issue, it has LRA (Locked Rotor Amps) of 43A!, 8.75 running Amp.
BTW, per user manual of your GM-PAC-08E3, it does not indicate if the 8000 Btu is ASHRAE or SACC/DOE rating. It is not an inverter type compressor, it looks to be 5000 Btu SACC/DOE A/C .
Thanks for the information, Bud. I need to find the manual for it. I do want to do another test with the AC at higher temps to see if it will last longer. Knowing the correct info is very important.
@@OffGridBasement I found the manual on line for your GM-PAC-08E3, it just says 8000 Btu.
There are name brand AC units that have built in inverters like Midea. Portable ac units are cool but very inefficient compared to window ac units.
Thanks for the info and the comment.
Great video I have a 12000 BTU minisplit AC 220v can you tell me what wattage inverter I need I believe it is 16Amps
And a guess how long the battery will last Thanks
220v x 16amps would be 3520 watts. i would think a minimum 6000-7000 watt peak inverter or more, definately more = better. a 12v 100ah battery would only last about 20 minutes, most likely less with inverter losses.
@@moparkr OK thanks
If it does pull 16 amps at 220v then you are looking at a wattage draw of 3520. I didn't see an amp surge on my AC but you might have one. 4000w inverter minimum would be my recommendation. Hope this helps.
If you run that same test and use the 3000 Watt Inverter you will get different ( better results)
* if its a quality unit *
A more powerful inverter doesn't need to work as hard to produce 600-650 watts on the constant.
Try it 🎉
I will! Thanks for the info and the comment.
Great real world test!
Thank you for the comment!
I have this same AC and your numbers seem to be accurate. I use a 2000 watt inverter but its power usage/run time is very similar to yours.
Good to hear. What temp do you set yours at? Thanks for the info and the comment.
@@OffGridBasement I set it to 61°. Thats the lowest setting this AC will set to. The compressor doesn’t turn off ever. It. Runs about 2 hours on 12v 100AH.
@@Rockwell108 thank you for the info!
1 400 watt solar panel to recharge while using and it will run all day
Panel would provide 400 and battery the remaining 200 until setpoint. Then panel can both run ac and charge
On a sunny day that would work. Cloudy day .. not so much. Thanks for the comment!
So, how many watts of solar panels are needed to run it all day?
What AMP fuse did you use for the inverter?
I say double. Around 900w. The fuse depends on the size of wiring. For 2 awg wiring I would go with a 150A fuse. Hope this helps. Thanks for the comment.
Be interesting to see how long it would have lasted with solar panels hooked up.
It would be, but the results would be so flexible. It really depends on the season, time of day, direction of panels... This is at least a baseline. Thanks for the comment!
Nice test. Obviously there are a lot of factors that can afford the outcome but at least it shows some real world results. Do you like that battery charger you’re using. I watched your review on it. I know it can do multiple battery types
I do. It can get up to 20 amps. Usually around 17 amps, but it's been very reliable. Thanks for the comment.
I just bought a Velit 12V air conditioner for my van, I don’t know what battery array I need to get.. I do not know much about electrical, amps, wattage and voltage all of that.
Would you recommend a battery array that can run a Velit 12v AC?
From what I could fine the 12v AC unit pulls around 75 amps. That is around 960w. Every 100ah battery would last a bit over an hour. Remember that once the temp get down, it won't run on full 100% of the time. i would say start with 200ah of lifepo4 batteries. That probably would give you around 4 hours without charging. Hope this helps.
If you add another battery would the ac run longer ?
Yes. It would double the amount of running time. Thanks for the comment.
Great video. BTW did you ever replace those blown caps in that inverter?
That thing is still sitting on my basement floor! Thanks!
So if you had a 500 watt solar on the roof of your RV charging the battery in peak daylight. Could you get 5 to 8 hours AC cooling?
Most likely. All of your solar would be going directly to the inverter. The battery would just be a buffer. Thanks for the comment.
Awesome review but I have to ask what the hell is going on with that room you’re in😂
hahah! We started tearing out the wall paper then realized this job sucks and stopped. It will get finished some day!
How do you recharge your battery? Or what is the fastest and cost-effective to recharge this type of batteries?
Thanks
I recharge using solar panels and a 30A solar charge controller. A 20A battery charger will charge it full in about 5 hours. Thanks for the comment.
If I were to have 2 Batteries in parallel with the same inverter, how much solar wattage and components would I need to recharge the batteries. Would like to do this set up with more power and recharge it.
Depends on the sun. I plan on doing more testing to see about that exact situation this summer. Thanks for the comment.
What if you hook up a solar panels. To keep the battery charged. Do a video on that.
The only reason I don't is because the results would vary depending on weather. One day I might get an extra hour. The next day I might get an extra four hours. Thanks for the comment.
How long do you think a 100 Ah lead battery could do with the same air conditioner?
Merci c’est un excellent vidéo 👍
You should only discharge SLA to 50% so I'm guessing 1.5 hours at best. I'm not sure if the initial draw would drop the voltage too low so the inverter would shut down. That would be my big concern. Hope this helps and thanks for the comment.
@@OffGridBasement Thank you very much your videos are very interesting and well explained
Bonne journée 🎶🎵⛵️
I tested a 1kw battery on a 5000btu window unit, it runs about 2.5hours.
@@MrCharmz81 Hello
Is it a lithium or lead battery ?
@@PierreA92 Lithium Iron Phosphate.
Love your videos. I wonder if a solar panel would help run the AC longer ? Or even the freezer
Yes it would! Even a 100w solar panel would make a difference especially if you live in a sunny environment. Thanks for the comment.
I actually just bought a 100W solar panel kit from harbor freight! I'm using my 12 volt marine battery with it and am currently getting about 12 hours straight. I am also using a 5000 inverter, hope this helps
How long did the battery take to charge, and can solar panels charge it?
A typical 20a charger will fill it up in 5 hours. Yes you could use solar panels. Honestly you would need around 800w to run the unit and charge the battery. Hope this helps. Thanks for the comment.
Be curious to see how long it would last if it started around 74 and kept at 74. 3 hrs isn’t bad though. If that went up to 5 with a precooled room be even better. I’m thinking for ex use Solar to bring it down to as low as it would go and then keep it cool all night. I like these experiments.
Here is a video I made with the AC set to 75 degrees. Hope this helps. th-cam.com/video/VdIihLIJvrg/w-d-xo.html
nice test
Thanks!
i guess its a good test but if i do a test like this i always like to have my battery(s) being charge at the same time. My system right now to Run my AC is my Delta Mini connected to 48 volt Valence batteries. The batteries keep the Delta Mini charging and has only lost about 20% because the Delta Mini only accepts 300 Watts of solar. My AC draws over 300 Watts so there is a small lost of power.
That is great! That is exactly how it should be done. I really just wanted to show the minimum amount of running time you can get. I would like to further the testing to show how to possibly double the amount of running time. Thanks for the comment.
Hello! I need some advice please. I have a Split Air Con wall mount AC. I want to power it by solar energy (so I can reduce my electric bill) I live in a tropical climate so we get sunlight almost every day of the year. I did some research and thought to put together a solar system with,
- 3x (560W) JA solar panels
- 3.2KW Hybrid Solar Inverter 230Vac PV Start Voltage 30Voc Built In 80A MPPT Solar Charge Controller 50/60Hz Auto Pure Sine Wave Inverter
- 1x (12V/120AH) ROSEN GEL DEEP CYCLE BATTERY
(I only need it during day time, night time it's cold here so I can manage without AC) If you're familiar or an expert on Solar and AC related stuff, I'd appreciate some pointers. I want to know if these components be enough to power the Air Con during day time? Thank you in advance!
Specs (of Outdoor unit I guess),
- Refrigerant R410A/500g - Capacity 9000 BTU
- Rated Voltage 220-240V~ - Standard input power 870W
- Rated Frequency 50Hz - Standard input current 4.0A
- Air Flow Volume 450m/h - Locked rotor current 19A
- Rated Power EN60335 1080W - Rated current EN60335 5.0A
Specs (Indoor Unit),
- Standard input power 33W - Rated voltage 220-240V~
- Standard input current 0.2A - Rated frequency 50Hz
Things look pretty good except for only using 1 battery. The max charge current for that battery is around 20-30A and the solar set could burn it up pretty fast. I would suggest thinking about getting at least 3 to 4 batteries. I hope that gives you a little bit more help. Good luck!
soft start capacitor for ac would help with high amps
That's a good idea. I should get one to see how it works. Thanks for the comment.
You would be way better off with a 5000 btu window ac unit they only use 400 watts and will cool better
Yes. I'm thinking about buying one just to be able to compare. Thanks for the comment.
Great test! That really helped me a lot! Thank you!
Great to hear! Thanks for the comment.
I really appreciate your video and test. By the way, how to contact you? I have others questions to ask for your help.😊
You can email me at jim@off-grid-basement.com if you have a few questions. I usually don't go into extensive questioning, but I should be able to point you in the right direction.
any recommendations for a 500 watt inverter with maybe a 800watt surge?
not looking to run a full size fridge or heater/ac.
my plasma tv runs around 250 watts.
From what I've looked at it's hard to find a small inverter like that with surge capability. You would be better off getting a 1000w inverter. My 500w inverter fails right at 500w! Anything from Reliable is good in my book. Hope this helps. Thanks for the comment.
So can I run a 1500 watt appliance with a 100ah battery and 1500 watt inverter ?
A 100ah battery is really only supposed to max out at around 1300w. You should really only run your inverter and battery @ 50% for extended periods or it will shorten the life span. Hope that helps. Thanks for the comment!
@@OffGridBasement Thanks for the information I decided to go with a 150ah battery and later buy another 150ah to maximize to 300ah at 12 volts
@@OffGridBasement I was asking since my electric 18 gallon water heater has a 1500watt heating element so I wouldn't be running the battery all day in with it.
Another way to think of this. You just used about 1kwh of electricity, which from the utility company would cost about 20 cents (at least it would for me). If you managed to get 2000 cycles out of your battery (assuming you could charge it for free), then you would be getting 2000 x 20 cents = $400 worth of electricity over the life of the battery. A battery for convenience is very useful, but if it came to using a battery to save money then these calculations need to be done very carefully.
That is a good way of thinking about it. Thanks for the comment.
True, assuming power prices don't go up.
LRA Locked Rotor Amps. What it pulls if compressor is locked up.
Thanks for the info and the comment!
So how many solar panels would be needed for continuous run?
I figured 600w of solar would make it run through the day. That is if it is a nice sunny day. Cloudy day would need upwards of 2000w in my opinion. Hope this helps. Thanks for the comment.
What would you need for a 700 watt microwave?
I would use at least a 1500w inverter. Microwaves pull a lot of power. If you use the microwave a lot, go for a 2000w inverter.
@@OffGridBasement Thanks
What was the average wattage over the full time? Looking to put a unit in an RV.
It was around 425w per hour on average. Hope that helps. Thanks for the comment.
Okay, many thanks!
Interesting, thanks 👍
You're welcome. Thanks for the comment.
Lifepo battery’s are extremely flammable fyi
Lithium Ion batteries are flammable. LiFePo4 batteries don't burst into flames when introduced to oxygen. Thanks for the comment.
How long can 1 car battery that's 1,000cca run a 600w Ac without solar panels ?
I believe cold cranking amps are way different than the total ah of the battery. More car batteries are around 100A. If you use a car battery in that fashion you will probably only get about 30 charge cycles.
So what if you were running 200 watts of solar into the system at the same time? 400 watts... 🤔
It would definitely offset the usage. You would probably double your time during the day with 400w of solar. Thanks for the comment.
If as you mentioned it was 90 outside mid day it may have run for 1 hour .. 1.5 hours tops.. radiant heat from outside at 90 in mid day sun,, oh yeah... an hour to 1,5 tops...
Thanks for the info and the comment.
Would a 48 volt 100 amp hr battery last 4 times as long as a 12 volt?
Yes it would. It has the same capacity as a 12v 400ah battery. Thanks for the comment.
How big of a inverter do i need to power 4 units ?
That's a rough call. If they all fired up at the same time then you're probably looking at a 5k minimum. For something like that you would really need to do a power audit to get a real idea. Sorry I can't help more.
Was the 1,500 watt inverter a pure sign?
Yes. The ALFFAA 1500w is pure sign wave.
Can you get battery to full with a 100 watt solar panels and how long does it take
Yes, but it would take several days of good sun. I'm guessing about 15 hours of sunshine. If you could get a constant 100w from the panel it would take 12.8 hours.
@@OffGridBasement my Dr prepare battery only gets to 3 bars out of 4 and won't get any higher off solar.. guessing charge off a normal charger would have different results
@@Jamie-re9cv You should check the voltage of the battery when it shows it's fully charged with solar. Full charge will be around 13.6v.
Keep trying. God's work. Thats the truth
Thanks for the comment.
I like your videos but to watch 2 advertisements before the video is bad news.
Honestly, I don't think I have much control of that. I really don't mess with the advertising part. I just click on "yes" when it asks me if I want to monetize.
@@OffGridBasement I understand and I will still watch your videos as they are very informative, but I did check my other subscriptions and almost all have ads but seldom do they start out with one, let alone 2.
Those ac units are less efficient than a window unit…Have fun stay safe.
Thank you for the info and the comment.
24 rla is lock rotor amps
Thanks for the info and the comment.