Keep in mind that you can also use your Honda generators to charge up your battery in addition to your panels in the scenario where grid is down for extended period of time or you have a need to use larger power use devices. Eg4 has generator line in option. Great setup I’m building something similar soon. Glad to see more people diy solar!
Thank you! It should handle a 12,000 BTU mini split and fridge just fine, length of time will depend on how many panels you run. We’re now up to 6 batteries and a 6000 watt inverter running all but the largest loads in my house. Utility bill is dropping off a cliff! I still use the 3000 as a separate battery charger. Been busy with new solar projects and have new videos coming out soon. 👍☀️⚡️💡🔋🤦♂️
@@terrahillfarm Excellent!! That's another benefit that I think people forget that in addition to these EG4 systems being affordable, renewable sources of power to run critical loads in a grid down scenario, they can also reduce energy bills by running those critical loads WHILE there's electricity. With DIY solar becoming so affordable & user friendly, it makes sense to have it even if the grid doesn't go down, to save $ on power production for the home.
The battery/inverter system can definitely optimize the use of a gas generator. I've got 2 48vdc LiFePO4 rack mount battery units powering a 3000w inverter. Using this as the electrical source for an off grid workshop. The batteries and inverter cost about the same as what trenching grid power to the shop, so that cost is a wash. I already had a 7000w generator available, but most of the time, it was running at idle, waiting for the next tool use. I have too much shade right now for solar collection to be effective. So I charge the batteries, and can run off those for a week or so before they get down to 1/2 charge. At that point, it takes only 2-3 hours of generator run time to charge back to fully charged. No wasted fuel running at idle.
Thanks! I haven’t experimented yet with recharging my battery on the fly with my generator but I will. I think you are right about battery back up with generator though. When I was without power for 3.5 weeks during Hurricane Ike, my 5700 watt generator ran thru tons of fuel all to power loads of 15% or less most of the time. If I’d had this battery backup power supply, I could have simply run the generator for just a few hours a day to recharge batteries then had basic power 24/7. I was burning 5-7 gallons of $4/gal gas everyday when most stations had no power and couldn’t pump. It’s truly U Boat technology, run on battery electric, surface, recharge batteries, then go back under to running on batteries again! 🛶⚡️☀️🔋👍😃
@terrahillfarm The EG4 Chargeverter is a wonderful tool for maximizing generator efficiency and limiting the charge current to the batteries. Your all in one inverter may do that on its own, but some have issues with charging from AC while in use. The Chargeverter protects your inverter from possible dirty power from the generator as well. That EG4 battery likes to be charged at 30 amps for max life. I've got 2 in parallel just like it. So I can pump power at 60 amps, or around 3200w, right around half of the max capacity of my generator.
@@Vibe77Guy Interesting.. i didn’t initially understand the difference between the battery charger and the chargeverter, but it sounds like the latter puts out substantially more current. My 2 EU 2000s put out very clean 120v power but, they could only hit about 28 amps in parallel. My understanding is using a generator, it needs to be rated for higher power output than the inverter. So from what you say, unless I have a >30 amp clean inverter generator, the chargeverter is the better solution to charging with the EG4 batteries on the battery powered solar system. Ughhh sounds like signature solar is getting another sale outta me this month! 🤣😵💰⚡️
@terrahillfarm The Chargeverter is good to 5000w. That's about 21amps at 240vac. But it's programmable for voltage and current output. I use the 240v output of my generator, but Signature Solar describes that the Chargeverter will work with 120vac input, with a cable adapter. With one 100ah battery you will be looking at 1500(ish) watts for charging. One of your generators should handle that easily.
Thanks! Yes, that is the plan. It was 105F here at 5:30 pm today so this months bill is certainly the highest all year. I’m tracking the data and will report on the impact once I get a good read on the savings. ☀️🔥🤣
Looking to build this same system, glad to have found your channel. We live in Florida and hurricanes are a way of life here, I hope to use this for backup power at night especially, and recharge with generator power during the day. New sub...
THANK YOU! Florida definitely has enough sun and hurricanes! I lived in Houston for years, through many hurricanes, and once lost power for 3.5 weeks in August! I went through a lot of gas and a couple generators in the process. The stress on my family was unbelievable. I’m committed to never going through that again! 🌪️ 🌀 ☀️⚡️🔋👍
I recently purchased the same battery and inverter and I am waiting for six 415 watt solar panels to be delivered. That should provide plenty of power for anything we'd need in a blackout. I will in time get a second battery just to have a little extra power in reserve. I am sure eager to see it all together.
Thanks! That’s about the same amount of solar watts I’m running off 10 used panels now. That’ll run some heavy loads in peak sun hours. If your utility charges lower rates off peak hours, you can recharge the battery with grid later in the evening when rates are low. I couldn’t really find a better bang for the buck than the 3000 EHV & Lifepower 4. Hook up a transfer switch to your critical loads and your system will be simple to run and give you a great emergency back up solution. ☀️👍🔋🤠
Fantastic build and review. With this I could use it for my home backup or for my RV. And when the sun is out it will charge while you are using it. Thank you for answering the EXACT question I have been wondering.
@@pamelafontan963 I’m glad it was helpful! This is a really simple system to build! If buying the EG4 Lifepower4 battery, make sure you get the new version (V2). It will allow you to expand your system more easily and it’s only $50 more. Also remember this will only power 120v loads. If you have to power 240v loads you can add a second 3000 watt inverter, but if you need that, I’d recommend just starting out with the 6000xp since it does both 120/240v. For powering your home, I’d recommend you install a manual 6 or 10 circuit transfer switch. That’s what I did and it is simple to switch over to battery/solar power when needed. Don’t forget to use my $50 off code when checking out! 2steps50off 👍☀️⚡️🤩🌞⭐️
Thanks for the great video, after research of the many other systems, I chose EG 6000 XP and the cart. Down here in Puerto Rico we lose power regularly. In want to be mobile. Currently I use Bluette, save me many times. But it's time for update .
Thank you for the feedback! The 6000xp is a really nice inverter. I have two in the box ready to be mounted so I’ll try to post video of my efforts with them. I’ve heard about the power issues in PR. Hopefully solar and battery prices will keep falling so more folks can afford to install DIY systems there. 👍☀️⚡️💡🔋
Thanks for the feedback! I hope I didn’t imply the 3000 was for outdoor use. But I did show it outside, so I don’t want anyone thinking it’d be safe to leave it running unattended outdoors. On a cart it’s handy to move around the garage but it wouldn’t last long in rain or high humidity. They do make some outdoor rated inverters, but I don’t know if I’d even trust those long term. Just too much rain where I live. ☀️👍⚡️💡🤠
Nice job! I just built a similar one with the EG4 6500EX-48 and the EG4-LL battery. I’ll be buying the transfer switch soon, then solar panels. For now, I’ll charge with grid until an outage then with the chargeverter from our existing generator. For the moment, I’m unsure on where to put the panels and will likely cost of grooming a field for room and grade. Good luck with the channel! I credit Will Prowse for getting mine.
Thanks! You’ve got the start of a nice system there. I think inverter and battery is the best way to start. Panel prices are coming down so you’re in a good place. I’ve been debating where to permanently place my panels and have decided to start off with a ground mount (pole) system. I’m working on a new design for a low cost system and once I get the components collected, I plan to build it out. Yes, Will is the original solar instigator for many!! I’ve still got a lot to learn but I appreciate folks like Will who’ve generously shared their wisdom and experience. 👍⚡️☀️
I built the same hand truck. And I tapped in one section of my grid tie solar panels ~4KW. I tested for a week and it was awesome. Consider I only got 3 full days of sun….No transfer switch or critical load yet. Just cords to windows AC and two fridges. It is true. Solar can be additive
That’s fantastic! It’s amazing how much power a 5.1 kWh battery🔋can store. When mine is just sitting around, it’s running a 1 ton inverter window unit A/C in our shop. Yes, solar power can be addictive. Once you figure out how to harness nuclear fusion from the☀️sun for free, you tend to get on a power ⚡️trip! 🤣👍💡🔌🤠
@@MyCabinLife here’s a link from Home Depot. www.homedepot.com/pep/Midea-12-000-BTU-115-Volts-Window-Air-Conditioner-Cools-550-Sq-Ft-with-ENERGY-STAR-and-Remote-in-White-MAW12V1QWT/315241182 I’d check prices at Amazon, Costco and Walmart as they all run sales from time to time. ⚡️☀️👍🤠
@@MyCabinLife I really depends how hot and/or humid it is. It will consume between 550-1150 watts when running. It’s variable speed so it might be low consumption in a smaller insulated room. It’ll ramp up and down depending on temp and setting. I use it in a way bigger space than it is designed for, so it’s usually running all out for me if it is really hot outside and it doesn’t cool a 1200sf shop near as well as a Bedroom. So in a house, if the outside temp was say in the mid 80s, average use might be .5-.6 kW/hr. At that rate, you’d get about 7 hours out of 1 battery. If the battery is hooked up to solar panels, the panels could generate additional power during the hottest part of the day so you might get a total of 10-12 hrs run time in the mid 80s. At 95f the battery would last less. For a broad guess without solar panels and temp in the high 80s, I’d calculate an average of 5 hours, based on 80% SOC for a 5120ah battery at .85 kW/hr. In real world figures, every use case is just different. 👍☀️🔋⚡️🤠
Great Video, I did the similar but got lucky and found a homeowner pulloff and got 14 265's @34/panel. Quick payback in my area at current energy costs. Also cool artwork! Lik'd and Sub'd looking forward to more great content.
Thank you! That’s a sweet deal! I started out with some cheap used panels but could never get the rated power from them. Could just be me. I’m no solar guru but I’ve really enjoyed learning about DIY solar and sharing the experiences with others online. I’ve learned so much interacting with others and it’s saving us a big chunk of money 💴 every month. With better tech and declining prices, I think a lot more people will be discovering DIY solar systems in the coming months. 👍☀️⚡️🤩🔋
@@terrahillfarm You and the other solar content youtubers are truly doing a great thing by showing the average Joe what is possible. You are really appreciated !!!
Thanks! I’m grateful for all the videos others have made that helped me learn new skills. Happy to share all the projects we have going on around here! ☀️💡😁 🪛 🔨
Great video! I have kinda a hybrid backup system. Ecoflow Delta pro refurbished and Extra battery ($5000) plus 2 48v 70ah lifepo4 batteries to supplement ($800). So have about 14K watt system for under 6K.
Thanks! That’s a fantastic amount of power for an emergency! Getting a good 120v solar system up and running is not that difficult. But going split phase 120/240v gets pricey fast. We’re going to keep running our critical circuits and add some more batteries with this system while we shop for the right whole house hybrid system. The three candidates are the 15k SolArk, 18k EG4 & the Schneider XW 6.8. Right now the Schneider is the front runner due to LF Transformer. ☀️👍⚡️🔋💡
@@terrahillfarmI bought two of the Growatt SPF 5000 ESs, which put out 240VAC, plus the external "Midpoint transformer", mainly to get 120VAC for my off-grid "RV home". I only needed one to run what I need, but figured that having an oversized system would be easier on the components. As I understand it, one could run up to about five of these with only one of the transformers, if one needed more power at one time. I like these as they can take in 6000W of solar at up to 450V open circuit. This is how I got around the expense of the Schneider, et al.
Nice build. It's always best to build your own solar generator, but after spending 23 years repairing inverters including inverters from Trace Engineering, Xantrex, Magnum Energy, Outback as well as hundreds of Chinese made, low cost, transformer-less, high frequency inverters, I know from experience that high frequency inverter simply don't last. I would highly recommend staying away from the high frequency inverter that you chose if you want your DIY solar generator to last. The FETS (field effect transistors) that are used in these lightweight inverters are fine for power resistive loads like incandescent lights or small electronics but were never meant for running high surge loads such as motors. microwaves, refrigerators, air compressors and power tools. You might be able to run your power tools a few times but every time you turn that high surge, inductive load on, your damaging the FETs in your inverter. Guarantied, right about the time your warranty runs out. those FETS will fail and you'll be let with an expensive paperweight. Commercially available solar generators use the same lightweight high frequency inverters which is why most of them fail after only a year or two of use. If you want a solar generator that's going to last, then you're far better off spending a little more money and buying a low frequency, transformer based pure sine wave inverter.
Thank you Wow! that is some really good information to know. So the low cost HF inverter might be fine for budget/limited/back up uses but if running an entire house a LF inverter is going to have a much longer life running 24/7/365? I’ve seen some nice LF Victrons, Schneider and Growatt, but for running a typical 2000sf house with regular air conditioning loads which brand would you select if it were your home?
I agree I have twin magnum 4448 PAE LF inverters been total off grid 5 + years not 1 issue. Got a friend about 20 miles from me chose a Solark 12K non stop issues. Low frequency is the way to go if U are completely off grid.
when using a low frequency transformer inverter - what is the ac conversion efficiency ? is there an easy way to identify if an inverter uses transformers instead or FETS ?
Great video! I'm going to get that same setup for my RV and step it down to 12 volts for the dc panel in the RV. My backup plan for the RV when camping off grid is when I can't produce enough solar for my needs I have a 3500W Champion Dual fuel that I can charge the battery. I'm carrying propane anyway for the RV. The propane can sit around for a really long time without going bad unlike gasoline. And the carburetor doesn't gum up. You may consider that since you already use propane. Thanks for the video
Thank you for the great comment! This is a good set up for an RV, especially if you can set out some extra solar panels during the day. One thing to understand is that the EG4 Lifepower battery needs a very clean and stable electric source to charge and few generators are sufficient to do tthe job.The solution is to use something like the EG4 chargeverter. It is adjustable and does a good job charging from a generator. There are plenty of videos online showing it working. My inverter stays at home so I just charge with grid or solar. 👍☀️⚡️😁💡
Don’t go with Champion. I’v had two and they due pretty quick, especially in a warm damp climate. Go Honda. But not the open frame ones. Get one of the quiet ones. You will be much better off. I’ve been into electronics/ electrical for 60 years, trust me. Been using generators for 12 years. And worked at an automotive machine shop, so I know how to take care of them.
@@5400bowen I don’t know about others experience, but I bought my first Honda EU2000 new in 2008 and the second (used) in 2010. I’ve replaced a carb, converted one to dual fuel and maintained them to schedule and they both still start on the first or second pull. So I guess that is some good advice you’re giving there.. 😁👍⚡️
Thank you, very informative!! Been planning to get similar in-home system soon from Signature Solar & SanTan as well. Hopefully with tax $ early next year if wife "lets me." 🙂
They’ve got some screaming deals on refurbished equipment right now.. my battery and inverter (refurbished) were available last night for around 35% off. Just tell her “solar equals free air conditioning!” Worked for me! 🤣☀️👍💰👀
I did this a few years ago with a reliance 10 circuit manual transfer switch, custom built lifepo4 and a Growatt 3k inverter. I also power only 120v so the key is (which you have obviously done) is to cross the hots across both legs either in the switch or in the adapter so both legs get power. Obviously can’t do 240v since it’s not out of phase. Helping my neighbor build the Will Prowse design like you did with the EG4 3k.
Exactly! The hand truck solar generator has evolved and Will’s latest video really started me wondering if it could perform as well as our EU2000i’s in backing up the house through the manual transfer switch. No, you aren’t going to be running 240v loads with this set up, but with only 3000w output, that’s a good thing! Most similar sized generators only power 120v and the parallel kits typically use a TT-30R format. It’s easier to just buy the TT-30P to L14-30R dog bone adapter and just use a regular 4 prong generator cable right into the MTS. I did that with my 2 Hondas and it’s worked well for over a decade on 2 different MTS’s. It’s super easy to adapt the solar generator to the same format and you get so much more for your $ compared to the AIO box units.
@@kf5hcr176 I’ve always understood ATS meant automatic transfer switch and MTS was Manual transfer switch. But some days I can’t even find my keys, so I may be wrong! 😫
Noone has addressed that a 5 Gallon can of gas is significantly smaller than 8 solar panels! Ok if you have a static situation at your house but is not ideal for most emergency situations
@@kadin06 Thank You! Excellent point. There are certainly better use case scenarios for gas generators, especially for RVs. Personally, I like having multiple power alternatives and when my gas and propane run out, the sun will still be there… hopefully! ☀️⚡️🔋😁
Thank you so much for this video! You have inspired me to take on this project. Question: I am new to the channel and to off grid. I assume you are hooked up to city water since you did not mention running a well pump. Do you think this system could do that?
@@Handelson Thanks! Actually I’m on a well but my well pump is running off a separate meter. Since it is 240v it would take modifications to run it off this system. I’m presently working on a project to convert the well to solar and will publish when it’s completed. 👍👍👍👍
Thank you! Great question. The LifePo4 batteries like to be charged fast and the default inverter charge setting is 30 amps so that pulls about 1800-2000w from the grid to charge. My two Honda generators max continuous is 26.6 amps or about 3200w so they should work to charge the battery. The best way to charge one or more batteries with a typical generator is using something like the EG4 chargeverter. It has adjustable amps and can really push power into the batteries quickly. Most solar inverters discourage charging directly with a generator unless it’s got a really good pure sine wave. I’ll pull out the Hondas and do some testing to come up with some solid estimates. 👍⚡️💡🔋🔌🤠
That would be great I have 3 inverter generators, 4000 watts each 3500 running , Plan on building this system as a back up to run at night during grid failure. I'm still trying to learn about solar, thanks for your help. Stay safe brother!@@terrahillfarm
I just built this system myself off of Will Prowes TH-cam posts. It works great. A question I have is grounding. When I use it to run equipment it's not grounded. In my own mind, I should plug it into a grounded house outlet (even though the power is out) it's grounded. Any thoughts about this. I haven't installed a dedicated circuit panel yet, but that will be the next project. I live alone in the High Desert CA, and have 8x400 watt panels when I do get connected will run them in series.
Thanks! Great question! Admitting I’m no electrician (far from it) I do know this. When I run tools or equipment directly off my Honda eu 2000 inverter generator, it’s not grounded to anything. With the EG4 3000, when you are running solely off the battery, it’s not grounded other than to the inverter itself. in either case, I’ve never had issues. The issues seem to come whenever you make a connection to the grid through a plug, a service or sub panel and then how the neutral/ground bonding is set up at your particular grid service can become an issue. So I’m comfortable running solely off the inverter/battery combo, using it like a portable generator, but if plugging in grid power or tying into your service panel, I’d call in a pro to make sure your grid service is set up correctly. The old version of the eg4 3000 inverter included a bonding screw which bonded the ground and neutral and that caused some confusion and problems. In the new version, they removed the screw and ability to bond neutral and ground. As I understand it, the neutral and ground in your grid power system should only be bonded in one place, and that is the panel closest to the meter, or where your grid power comes in. When you bond ground and neutral in more than one place, you can have some dangerous issues. I’ll defer to any pro opinions on these statements so don’t take my response as the correct way to do anything! 😵⚡️☀️💡😁
@@terrahillfarm @terrahillfarm that's where my confusion is, the bonding ground on both the charge controller, and battery. The battery, and controller use the same ground inside the controller, so I also connected the outside bonds with copper wire. It looks pretty messy.
@@terrahillfarm definitely adding the transfer box with at least refrigerator, mini split, wifi power, is all I really need. I have electricians helping me figure it out too.
System questions: Do you know how much standby watts are used by the system just to have it on with nothing attached? Also what is the minimum voltage of the array in order to charge with a solar panel?
Thanks! I’ve heard between 50-77watts standby drain. I think 70w is pretty close. So you’d need about 300w of extra solar to offset the loss. You need a min of 120 volt solar to turn on the Mppt. Good news is you can run panels in a long series string to get there and that allows you to use older panels if you want o save money. 4-6 panels with 36v output would be a good starting point. The downside of low cost HF inverters is the high standby power. Haven’t found found any with less than 60 watts. ☀️⚡️👍💡
Do you have links to the rv cords? My setup at the cabin they wired an RV plug for me that goes into my breaker box and I plug that into the gas generator. And I watched will prowse video and that's when I got the idea and then I saw your video and I'm like well this would be great I could just plug the cabin right into that. But I need the part that receives the rv plug. For ac out of the inverter.
Have you tested the runtime with ref. freezer and small a/c ect. I know how to figure watts and watt hours, just seeing if you have tested your system.
Thanks! I have 2 full size French door refrigerators, one med sized chest freezer, on demand propane water heater and all the plugs, lights and C fans as critical loads. Since the appliances each turn on and off by thermostat, it’s tough to get an accurate wattage consumption as the watts fluctuate. I can tell you we lost power for 4.5 hrs a few weeks back and the temps were 100f+. I did not power any air conditioning since the house was already cool. It powered everything during that outage and the battery had almost 50% more power left over. I’d estimate we were averaging about 500watts/hr constant draw. Add a 6000 BTU window unit and the consumption would have doubled. Any air conditioning is going be a constant drain so that will shorten the run time significantly. With a 5100wh battery drawing down to 20% SOC you’ll get about useable 4000whs from the battery. I’ll set up a better test once it cools down a little. 👍⚡️☀️🔋
Still haven't pulled the trigger on building my system yet, hurricane season is on us now, Iv'e got the generators ready though. Will be watching your channel for updates. May have to ask for some advice and tech. help. Thanks! Stay safe...@@terrahillfarm
@@t.d.harris1311 Thank You! I’m not a big shot TH-camr like some of these folks but I enjoy diving into most energy independence projects and making quality videos to share the knowledge. I don’t mind answering questions as long as you don’t take my advice as an “expert”🤣
You can set the inverter to use solar to keep the battery charged and when the battery runs down to 20%, grid power kicks in and runs it back up to 60% then switches back to solar, if available. This setup will minimize the grid use and maximize the battery and solar use. Takes a while to figure out settings but it can be configured more ways than I expected. 👍☀️⚡️
@@daveaz9962 let me see if I edited out some of that from the original video and if I find it, I’ll post something to show how it’s wired. Basically, the inverter has solar PV DC in, Battery DC in, 120v grid input and 120v inverter output to load. Battery & PV solar panels are two wires pos & neg. 120v AC in and out are three wires black, white and green (hot, neutral and ground) like any 3 prong 15-20 amp plug. In my application, I never used the 120v AC input, just the out put from the inverter. That’s a true “off grid” set up. You can cut the plug off a multi outlet (surge protector) power strip and wire it directly to the AC output. Then you can plug in what ever 120v appliance you like. Or, you can wire it up to a 30A RV style receptacle like I did, then buy an adapter that takes the three wire RV plug and adapts it to a Four wire generator cord. This is how I plugged it into my generator transfer switch. There are lots of options but just realize you will never get 240v power out of the inverter. It’s only 120v. If you need 240v step up to the EG4 6000xp. It will provide 6000 watts of 120/240 split phase power and is just about the best AIO inverter that size you will find for less than $1,500.
I believe the eg4 all in one you used has a minimum solar VOC input of 120v that’s probably the only downside to this system is you need a decent size array to charge it
That is correct! I would guess (4) 175+ watt panels minimum to get above 120v but more probably work better. Even though it’s rated for 500v, I would not go much over 400v. Always leave some room for safety with low cost solar equipment. It ain’t a Victron! 🤣
How many of those batteries can i add to that setup? Because all of the videos with this exact setup use only one battery. And if you can would it be best wire the batteries up in series or parallel? Ive been wanting to do this project but i really need to have 3 maybe 4 of those batteries, would that inverter system handle it? Sorry im new and i kinda became addicted to solar lol
Since they are 48V nominal batteries, you should only hook them up in parallel, but you can put as many as needed in the system, if you can afford them. The reason THIS set up is using only one battery is to keep it mobile. Yes, the inverter could handle more batteries, as long as you use a properly sized fuse.
I think the backup question is dependent on how long you want to be good for with a grid failure. Panels and charge controller don’t need to be much if you aren’t using it except for outages. But if you want a weeks worth of power you need to calculate your needs( like for the emergency, or your “comfort range” usage and buy enough batteries. If they are going to sit unused until an outage, even a comparatively small panel/charger set up will charge them up fully to be ready for the apocalypse.
Agree! Having gone without power for almost a month straight after a hurricane, with only a generator for power, just having a solar charged battery that would let you keep basic lights,phones,internet and fans on while your generator rests a few hours is a worthy goal for energy resilience. Once you get started though, it’s just about adding more panels and batteries after that. And that quest my friend never ends! 🤣⚡️☀️👍🖥️💵
@@terrahillfarm yeah, once Ingot Solar I never stopped expanding. The more power you have, the more you use. But I’m in a remote area, so no going to a laundromat etc. I do as much for myself as possible. Plus, a well pump and I run an air compressor and other power equipment from time to time, and lights at night for security etc.
2 things; You might want to get 8 gauge solar extension cable for less voltage drop, and their more expensive battery with the screen, handles bigger loads much better, if you only have one battery, get the good one...I've experimented with different gauge solar extension cables, ya, you want the 8 gauge for less than a 3% drop, the 12 gauge drop is frequently 10 -13 % drop in power over longer runs..The difference in cost is minimal, get the 8 gauge..
I agree the LL is the better battery, but I was trying to keep the price a low as possible for proof of concept. The fact this inverter will take up to 500v from solar (and I’m running around 340v now) gives you the ability to use smaller PV wiring, since the amps are so low. That said, my permanent ground mount location is about 300’ away so that will require much thicker wire to avoid the drop in volts. I’m working on the design for the whole house system now and debating between the EG4 18k and the comparable Sol Ark. Ive seen many positives reviews on both. 😊
@@terrahillfarm Ya, I have the EG4 3000 it runs the lights and other electrical in 4 tiny houses on my forest property that I rent out on AIRBNB, they are just bedrooms in the forest with many windows, very beautiful..I have 2 of the EG4 6500's and 2 server rack batteries and a 280 ah battery made out of prismatic catyl LIPO cells, 16s 1p for a total of 23 kw's ..With 3 strings of solar maxed out almost 500 volts a string..Ya I'm aware of the ability to use smaller wiring, I'm saying that I wouldn't do that because the loss adds up every day, and you only buy that wire once..The EG4 18k is much much cheaper, but the Sol Ark purchased through Current Connected has better customer service, better warranty, and just known to be the very best, but pricey..I would go with the 18k, but, it's a tricky decision..
Very nice. I have a 4 circuit switch that I run full time off of a Bluetti AC 200 MAX with 2 additional batteries for 6144 watt hours. I built a 5 kwh rolling crate with a 2000 watt inverter and 3 charge controllers for less than half the cost of the Bluetti. I charge during the day while I'm at work and run two window ACs at night. I'll do a big one someday that can run the central AC. Thanks for the video.
@@terrahillfarm There is a video coming soon from Will Prowse, apparently he is having some issues with the 18k..They are software issues about exporting to the grid, which he doesn't want to do, but can't stop, and an inspection issue about a quick shut off for the solar I believe, apparantly the inspector laughed and said no way, he wrote about it today on his forum, and said he might return the unit, might want to read that and check out the video when he makes it..I think Sig Sol already has the fix though..Those issues might not affect you at all..No one is inspecting my units and I'm not connected to the grid, so that wouldn't affect me..
@@PWoods-cd6tk That’s great! I tell folks all the time that a transfer switch should almost be bought before getting a emergency generator! I went 3.5 weeks in the summer without power after a hurricane in 2008 and that experience started me down the home power solutions path!
Ordered an 18” L5-15P to TT-30R dogbone adapter off Amazon and cut off the L5-15 end.. Took the three wires (black/green/white) and wired them to the AC input of the EG4 3000 EHV Inverter. APEXSPORTS 1.5FT RV 15A to 30A Pig-Tail Power Adapter Cord 5-15P Male to TT-30R Female Dogbone, Easy Unplug Design, LED Power Indicator. www.amazon.com/dp/B08NWRVNZ2?psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_ud_ct_PHNKJM49KF99QA6W5G1S&language=en_US
You could get a bit of ROI by leaving it connected, using solar panel to power the house and also having the inverter connected to the grid as bypass when you are not generating power?
@@TimotheFillionBrunet Yes, you can do that with most inverters, the trick is to make sure you account for the max amps coming in from the grid and from the solar so you don’t overload the inverter. So far I’ve chosen to switch back and forth from grid to solar instead of passing through. I have a bigger system now and am designing it to run the house off solar and battery back up 100%. Check out some of my newer videos to see how the system has grown from the little back up power station! 👍⚡️☀️👍🌞
Ive always thought that L14-30R would be best plug to use over a RV plus TT-30R. Whats your thought on using the EG4 6000XP instead so you can have 240V output in one unit for around $1450?
The TT-30R is only 120v which is fine for most smaller travel trailers. Once you get into coaches and bigger RVs running 240v appliances, I think you’ll move up to a 50 amp service connection. As far as the 6000xp goes, it’s definitely going to power most any RV, the challenge is installing enough batteries and solar panels and where do you place them? I’ve been testing the 6000xp and it has been running my entire 3 bedroom home with 3 tons of air conditioning. I Don’t think you can get a better inverter for under $2,000.
Thanks! Value wise, if it were me, I’d go for panels around the 400 watt range with a voltage under 38 volts. This will let you easily run a dozen panels in a single string and keep you under the 500volt/5000 watt inverter limit. 10 AWG PV wiring or similar size THHN in conduit always works well for me. If you have a really long run (200’ +) you may consider 8 AWG wire. 👍🤩☀️⚡️🔋
@@terrahillfarm I found some 340 panels local to me for a good deal I’m thinking of starting with 4 or five of those. Would 10 gauge be ok for that? It’s an emergency back up system.
@@jglassman1122 Used panels can be expensive sometimes. It typically costs $50-100 each to permanently mount a solar panel, so the more power a panel generates, the cheaper it typically is to install. If they’re 10-15 years old they may only output 60-75% of their rated power which means you may only get about 1/2 the rated power output on average. Since you’ll need more panels your install cost and your voltage will be higher limiting the number of panels you can use in one string. Make sure you understand your amp limits in the SCC if you try to run parallel strings. Best bet is to only buy used 6-8 and test them out first. If they regularly give you 85% + of the rated power then get more. I purchased my new 405 watt bifacial panels for around $100 each. I’m regularly pulling 90% of the rated power from them and that lowers the number of panels needed and the cost of racking them. Just some things to think about. Nothing wrong with starting out with dirt cheap used panels but make sure you know the performance before going in on a big purchase! 🤩☀️⚡️👍
@@jglassman1122 Awesome. Don’t Forget, if you have paid a similar amount in for income taxes this year, you can get 30% of the price of your NEW equipment back in a tax credit when you file your tax return. That really brings the cost down! 🤩💴
I currently have a manual interlock kit installed on my panel with a 30amp breaker & 30amp reliance inlet box NEMA L14-30P. How would I wire the AC out on the “solar generator” so that both legs are hot? (I would just leave all my 240v circuits turned off) Can I just wire a NEMA L14-30R female as the output on the “solar generator”?
It depends…Personally, I prefer to move my critical load switching out of the main service panel, but for running a limited 120v source into a hot panel with an interlock, I’d call in a pro (which I am not) for assistance. This 120v 3000w inverter can spike to over 4500w so proper wire and breaker sizing is essential to avoid injury or fire. I bought a short dog bone adapter and cut off one end to do mine. They sell similar adapters for most plug sizes on Amazon. I think those for 3 into 4 wires are pre wired with both legs hot and thats why mine worked. If you want to get sound advice from actual experts, I’d join the DIY Solar Forum, those folks have probably done what you described before. 😊
Thanks for the video. I have a question, I just built this same set up you have and I have found when I have it hooked up to the PV and have the minimum of 120v coming in for the unit to start charging I have a small amount of power in the handles of my eg4 48v battery. Just enough to give you a buzz feeling if you touch it. Are you having this issue?
Thanks! I’d first make sure the inverter and battery are running the current firmware (check EG4electronics.com for files and instructions). Check the solar panels and see if you’re getting a buzz there as well. The Inverter and battery should share a connected equipment ground, the metal hand cart did it for me but there’s an equipment ground screw on the outside bottom of the inverter case you can run a wire to the battery case and see if that stops it. Lastly, with the older Ver. I 3000 watt inverter, they had an internal neutral/ground bond screw. If yours is a a couple years old or refurbished, it might still be in there and that could cause issues, depending on how you are using the inverter. Hope this helps and check the DIYsolarforum.com for more info on trouble shooting this inverter and battery combo. 👍☀️⚡️🤩💡🔋
@terrahillfarm You the man, you gave me a lot to think about and check. I just bought both from Signature Solar brand new, but I understand they can still be old stock, and the firmware needs updating. Didn't even think of that. The panels don't buzz me, but I will forsure look into these other tips you have given me. I will also make it a point to come back to this post with an update as to what the issue was for the next Joe like me in hopes it can help the next guy. Thanks for getting back to me so quickly!!
Absolutely! I ran a Midea 12,000 BTU inverter window unit in the heat of summer (92F++). and could get about 4-5 hours off the battery. When I hooked up 2kW of solar panels up solar panels that time would double. If the temps were slightly lower it’d run longer but it was really hot when I was testing it out. If you’re running a window unit of 5-9,000 BTUs it may do better. It gets heavy, but you can add a second battery and double everything. 👍💡☀️⚡️
@@gwrulzmylife here’s the rough math: 5200 watt hours in battery x 80% usable per cycle = 4160 watt hours divide that by 480 watts and you get 8.67 hours run time. But you’ll lose around 10-15% converting DC to AC so you should get a solid 7 hrs run time maybe more if it cycles with a thermostat. Hope that helps! 👍
Thanks! Correct… if you “install” the solar system and battery backup in your home, and the components are new, I believe they qualify for the tax credit. I’m no CPA but I think that you have to have paid taxes that year, in an amount equal to the credit, to receive 100% of the credit. Apparently “some people” who didn’t pay any income tax were surprisingly shocked that they didn’t get the credit after purchasing a system. That’s why they say check with YOUR CPA before counting on the tax credit! ☀️🫣⚡️👍 💴
And another opinion on that matter is not going for the tax credit... what they don't know I have they cannot take/ban. Especially if you're in the city and just have a few panels set up on the ground in your backyard.
Thanks! That’s a fantastic deal considering they’re $3,200 on Amazon right now! Certainly a better option if you need portability and aren’t heavily reliant on solar panels for charging. The costs (at $666/kW) and proprietary nature of their external battery makes it a less desirable option if your ultimate goal is to develop a whole house solar solution with batteries. 🔋 Your can purchase LifePo4s for around $325/kW right now. That said, I’m not turning one down if I’m stranded out in the woods somewhere and need to charge my phone or EV! 🌲 🐻 ⛰️
Thanks! This inverter requires at least one battery to operate but that’s not really enough to fully power a house. If your home was only 120v, your peak power never exceeded 3,000 watts throughout the day, and you had a battery bank with enough panels and batteries to cover 1.5-2x your daily electric usage, then this inverter could power your house, without grid (that’s a lotta ifs!). Calculating the right combination of panels, batteries and inverter is tricky since everyone has a different level of power needs. I’ll continue to show what works (and doesn’t) for my use and hopefully that helps folks understand what they need to ditch the grid! 👍⚡️🤠
Thanks! Ive heard both good and bad experiences buying batteries from Aliexpress. I think the next step up would be to mount an EG4 6000xp and a 14.3 kWH vertical battery like the power pro. You’d need a taller cart but you could run your whole house off it for days with solar panels assisting charging. If you want to save money, look into the 15 kWh Apexium battery kit from Docan. Last I checked you can put it together yourself for less than $2,000. That’s a lot of power! 👍☀️⚡️🤩💡🔋
Thanks! Ive heard both good and bad experiences buying batteries from Aliexpress. I think the next step up would be to mount an EG4 6000xp and a 14.3 kWH vertical battery like the power pro. You’d need a taller cart but you could run your whole house off it for days with solar panels assisting charging. If you want to save money, look into the 15 kWh Apexium battery kit from Docan. Last I checked you can put it together yourself for less than $2,000. That’s a lot of power! 👍☀️⚡️🤩💡🔋
Thanks! Pretty much the same inverter setup with an EG4 battery instead of a Trophy. My goal was to try and build a complete system with panels as cheaply as possibly, so I added the used panels and got the entire price under $3k. That smashes the performance specs of the AIO box units for thousands less. I’ve seen several hand truck systems built on YT but Will’s using the EG4 3000EHV was by far the best IMO. I think the cart he used works better but I already had mine sitting around. ☀️⚡️👍
@@terrahillfarm Yeah, I built one too with the Lifepower 4 battery. Will didn't mention the importance of grounding the unit if it's not connected to AC ground - it won't work, or anything about the Nader breakers for the PV in line which come with the unit (he said to plug it in at night). He also said to use a basic Yellow Jacket switch box for a 3K load and that's not advisable. Also, to pick on Will some, the AC in line on mine was sucking in over 2k watts from the wall, so you don't want to use a standard cord for this as you pointed out (but Will suggested). Definitely use a 10AWG cord. It gets hot otherwise. Will is a smart guy but he speeded through this one too fast.
@@tomproctor.archive The build was certainly minimal in safety considerations! You can adjust the Amps lower on the grid charging and 25A was a bit cooler than 30A. 100% agree the grid connect needs to be 10AWG minimum! Are you getting an accurate wattage and amps indication on the inverter from your PV? Mine seems to be lacking considerably.
@@terrahillfarm I haven't tested actual PV line voltage and amps to what the meter says, but it seems within range. Good call on the setting to dial down the input from AC, seems like a reasonable call.
If you buy a secondary inverter and secondary battery 🔋 you can plug grid power into the inverter if the battery gets low it charges the battery and you will never be with out power ever again just re wire your house to run off Solar battery inverter and if the battery gets low then it pulls power from the grid from the ac side of the inverter.
Thanks! That is correct. In fact, I’ve recently installed two EG4 6500xp inverters and plan to use the 3000 watt eg4 inverter as a back up 120v battery charger. Works great at 35 amps! I’m up to six batteries now and running the house on them. Should have a couple new videos out shortly, please subscribe to not miss those!
Definitely! From what I can tell a DIY battery build would knock almost 40% off the server rack battery cost. Now if they’d just make a nice server rack case where you could house the DIY battery and BMS, that’d be a winner! Ultimately, I’ll need 20-30 kW of battery to run my air conditioner over night, nothing but extra cash keeping me from that!
No not really, and we have 12 LED can lights in our family room. I’ve heard this is common with the EG4 6500ex and Adam DeLay did a great review on this issue. SS said it’s caused by lower quality LED bulbs, but that’s hard to isolate. The problem may be more pronounced at night so I’ll check on it. Literally 3 days after we shot this video, a power pole snapped in half down the road and our power was out for 4.5 hrs. Plugged in this system and ran the house (except for central AC) till the power came back. 😊
Is your water well 120 volts? Your battery is 5.4 kwH, ,not 5.4 kw?5.4 kwH sounds correct Good job with the demonstration. Looks like east Texas, Nice place y'all have built. Ham radio? Take care and May The Lord continue to bless you and your family
@@kf5hcr176 Thank you! The well is 220 but not on solar yet. Battery is 5,100 watts and 48v but the current settings will only run down to 20% of the battery. We’re in central TX about 1/2 way between DFW & Houston. No Ham yet but it’s on my list to learn. This project was a first step in going to full solar. It’s worked better than I thought it ever would, except for some issues with Solar Assistant. Hoping to have that fixed by Friday so I’ll post a vid if I get it working. Yes, we have been truly blessed and we remember to give thanks daily🤠
I’ve been looking and while our LED can lights have not been flickering, we have some Edison style LED bulbs that are flickering slightly. If you have a house full of those, you my have issues! 💡☀️⚡️👍
Sorry about that, thanks for pointing that out. I didn’t explain that the outdoor transfer switch door is made to close with the generator cable hooked up. There’s a small space for the cord in the bottom. An indoor transfer switch with outdoor plug will work for most applications, I’d just bought that outdoor switch for my last house since the meter was on the outside of the house opposite a room where I couldn’t mount an indoor switch. 👍⚡️☀️💡🤠
Exactly! Can always recharge with generator if the sun ain’t shining. If you do not have a big tax bill to offset with the 30% tax credit on new panels, used is the way to go. I’m still stunned I could run the entire house off one battery 🔋
@@terrahillfarmI thought it was ok to claim the 30% tax credit on used panels since it’s a new install to you? (I’m not a lawyer or cpa accountant ect)
Thanks! I’ve heard several people’s opinions on that and as I read the description it just says “new equipment”. Personally, I can’t afford to be wrong so only on new for me. But, I’m not a CPA, so if your CPA tells you to take the credit on used equipment… Go For it and send me his card! 😮
Thanks! Correct, you’d need two EG4 3000 EHV inverters running in parallel to produce 240v. At $1,350 for 2, that’s about as cheap an off grid split phase solution as I’ve seen. I’ve also seen some 240v inverters that run off solar without batteries for running a well, but you’d be limited to pumping only when the sun is out. You could also look into a step up transformer to convert 120v to 240v. Everyone’s use case is slightly different so there’s really no “one size fits all” solutions in solar. I guess there is if money 💰 isn’t an issue but that ain’t me! 😁👍⚡️☀️
Thanks! My oldest is 15 years old. I’ve changed oil about every 50 hours or annually. They are expensive but they last. Longest life I’ve heard of is 25,000 hrs, but I’d be inclined to rebuild after 10,000. There are plenty of good clones out there for much less 💰 and those probably work great for most folks who use less than 100 hrs/yr. I’ve just not seen enough data on longevity from the clones. If I had to live off generator power for 4 years, the divorce would cost much more than the best Honda generator! 🤣👍😫🫣
Thanks, that is exactly what’s happened! After seeing the potential for the backup system, we upgraded inverter, batteries and getting ready to buy more panels for full off grid system! I do have plenty of roof, but it is on a 4/12 slope from 16 to 24 feet high. I don’t bounce as well as I used to so I’m not climbing up there for maintenance or install. With unlimited yard area I will be enlarging my ground mount array. We have a nice southwest facing hillside but my Biggest obstacle is too many trees. Been waiting for it to cool off so I can go into full Lumberjack mode on them! ☀️⚡️💡👍🤠
Electric company goes down that much? Get rid of them. You got the panels cheep. You got a system just upgrade with more panels, and a second EG-4. Depending on average rainfall days, add a battery now and then to cover for them, 3 days should do. Then kick the electric company down the road. Pun intended.
You’re exactly right! That’s why I just installed two EG4 6000xp inverters and will be running the entire house off those and a 30 kWh battery rack. It’ll take a few years to pay the cost back but that’s not counting the benefits of never being without power. To us, that has a lot of value considering how far out in the woods we live. Prices for DIY solar component prices have gotten really low so perfect time to expand. If oil prices keep rising, you know utility companies will be raising their rates as well. 👍☀️⚡️💡👍🔋
Thanks! Good point but that’s why I tend to use air quotes when I refer to “popular AIO solar generators”. Of course a gas ⛽️ generator just converts liquid petroleum energy ⚡️to AC power like an inverter converts DC solar power ☀️to AC power so that’s pretty much the same I guess. 😁👍
Keep in mind that you can also use your Honda generators to charge up your battery in addition to your panels in the scenario where grid is down for extended period of time or you have a need to use larger power use devices. Eg4 has generator line in option. Great setup I’m building something similar soon. Glad to see more people diy solar!
Once you start playing with Solar and realize what you can do you're hooked. Happened to me 12 years ago when I used to live in Florida.
Hahaaa! 🤣 So true my friend! Next they’ll be putting addiction warning labels on all Lithium Batteries 🔋
Great video!! Going to do similar permanent install with same components to run home mini-split, refrigerator, & freezers. 👍
Thank you! It should handle a 12,000 BTU mini split and fridge just fine, length of time will depend on how many panels you run. We’re now up to 6 batteries and a 6000 watt inverter running all but the largest loads in my house. Utility bill is dropping off a cliff! I still use the 3000 as a separate battery charger. Been busy with new solar projects and have new videos coming out soon. 👍☀️⚡️💡🔋🤦♂️
@@terrahillfarm Excellent!! That's another benefit that I think people forget that in addition to these EG4 systems being affordable, renewable sources of power to run critical loads in a grid down scenario, they can also reduce energy bills by running those critical loads WHILE there's electricity. With DIY solar becoming so affordable & user friendly, it makes sense to have it even if the grid doesn't go down, to save $ on power production for the home.
The battery/inverter system can definitely optimize the use of a gas generator. I've got 2 48vdc LiFePO4 rack mount battery units powering a 3000w inverter. Using this as the electrical source for an off grid workshop. The batteries and inverter cost about the same as what trenching grid power to the shop, so that cost is a wash. I already had a 7000w generator available, but most of the time, it was running at idle, waiting for the next tool use. I have too much shade right now for solar collection to be effective. So I charge the batteries, and can run off those for a week or so before they get down to 1/2 charge. At that point, it takes only 2-3 hours of generator run time to charge back to fully charged. No wasted fuel running at idle.
Thanks! I haven’t experimented yet with recharging my battery on the fly with my generator but I will. I think you are right about battery back up with generator though. When I was without power for 3.5 weeks during Hurricane Ike, my 5700 watt generator ran thru tons of fuel all to power loads of 15% or less most of the time. If I’d had this battery backup power supply, I could have simply run the generator for just a few hours a day to recharge batteries then had basic power 24/7. I was burning 5-7 gallons of $4/gal gas everyday when most stations had no power and couldn’t pump. It’s truly U Boat technology, run on battery electric, surface, recharge batteries, then go back under to running on batteries again! 🛶⚡️☀️🔋👍😃
@terrahillfarm
The EG4 Chargeverter is a wonderful tool for maximizing generator efficiency and limiting the charge current to the batteries. Your all in one inverter may do that on its own, but some have issues with charging from AC while in use. The Chargeverter protects your inverter from possible dirty power from the generator as well. That EG4 battery likes to be charged at 30 amps for max life. I've got 2 in parallel just like it. So I can pump power at 60 amps, or around 3200w, right around half of the max capacity of my generator.
@@Vibe77Guy Interesting.. i didn’t initially understand the difference between the battery charger and the chargeverter, but it sounds like the latter puts out substantially more current. My 2 EU 2000s put out very clean 120v power but, they could only hit about 28 amps in parallel. My understanding is using a generator, it needs to be rated for higher power output than the inverter. So from what you say, unless I have a >30 amp clean inverter generator, the chargeverter is the better solution to charging with the EG4 batteries on the battery powered solar system. Ughhh sounds like signature solar is getting another sale outta me this month! 🤣😵💰⚡️
@terrahillfarm
The Chargeverter is good to 5000w.
That's about 21amps at 240vac. But it's programmable for voltage and current output.
I use the 240v output of my generator, but Signature Solar describes that the Chargeverter will work with 120vac input, with a cable adapter. With one 100ah battery you will be looking at 1500(ish) watts for charging. One of your generators should handle that easily.
Nice. Can also partially power the house all the time and lower your electric bill.
Thanks! Yes, that is the plan. It was 105F here at 5:30 pm today so this months bill is certainly the highest all year. I’m tracking the data and will report on the impact once I get a good read on the savings. ☀️🔥🤣
Looking to build this same system, glad to have found your channel. We live in Florida and hurricanes are a way of life here, I hope to use this for backup power at night especially, and recharge with generator power during the day. New sub...
THANK YOU! Florida definitely has enough sun and hurricanes! I lived in Houston for years, through many hurricanes, and once lost power for 3.5 weeks in August! I went through a lot of gas and a couple generators in the process. The stress on my family was unbelievable. I’m committed to never going through that again! 🌪️ 🌀 ☀️⚡️🔋👍
I recently purchased the same battery and inverter and I am waiting for six 415 watt solar panels to be delivered. That should provide plenty of power for anything we'd need in a blackout. I will in time get a second battery just to have a little extra power in reserve. I am sure eager to see it all together.
Thanks! That’s about the same amount of solar watts I’m running off 10 used panels now. That’ll run some heavy loads in peak sun hours. If your utility charges lower rates off peak hours, you can recharge the battery with grid later in the evening when rates are low. I couldn’t really find a better bang for the buck than the 3000 EHV & Lifepower 4. Hook up a transfer switch to your critical loads and your system will be simple to run and give you a great emergency back up solution. ☀️👍🔋🤠
Fantastic build and review. With this I could use it for my home backup or for my RV. And when the sun is out it will charge while you are using it. Thank you for answering the EXACT question I have been wondering.
@@pamelafontan963 I’m glad it was helpful! This is a really simple system to build! If buying the EG4 Lifepower4 battery, make sure you get the new version (V2). It will allow you to expand your system more easily and it’s only $50 more. Also remember this will only power 120v loads. If you have to power 240v loads you can add a second 3000 watt inverter, but if you need that, I’d recommend just starting out with the 6000xp since it does both 120/240v. For powering your home, I’d recommend you install a manual 6 or 10 circuit transfer switch. That’s what I did and it is simple to switch over to battery/solar power when needed. Don’t forget to use my $50 off code when checking out! 2steps50off 👍☀️⚡️🤩🌞⭐️
Thanks for the great video, after research of the many other systems, I chose EG 6000 XP and the cart. Down here in Puerto Rico we lose power regularly. In want to be mobile. Currently I use Bluette, save me many times. But it's time for update .
Thank you for the feedback! The 6000xp is a really nice inverter. I have two in the box ready to be mounted so I’ll try to post video of my efforts with them. I’ve heard about the power issues in PR. Hopefully solar and battery prices will keep falling so more folks can afford to install DIY systems there. 👍☀️⚡️💡🔋
Nice video, just as a side note the EG4 3K inverter isn't designed for outdoor use.
Thanks for the feedback! I hope I didn’t imply the 3000 was for outdoor use. But I did show it outside, so I don’t want anyone thinking it’d be safe to leave it running unattended outdoors. On a cart it’s handy to move around the garage but it wouldn’t last long in rain or high humidity. They do make some outdoor rated inverters, but I don’t know if I’d even trust those long term. Just too much rain where I live. ☀️👍⚡️💡🤠
Nice job! I just built a similar one with the EG4 6500EX-48 and the EG4-LL battery. I’ll be buying the transfer switch soon, then solar panels. For now, I’ll charge with grid until an outage then with the chargeverter from our existing generator. For the moment, I’m unsure on where to put the panels and will likely cost of grooming a field for room and grade. Good luck with the channel! I credit Will Prowse for getting mine.
Thanks! You’ve got the start of a nice system there. I think inverter and battery is the best way to start. Panel prices are coming down so you’re in a good place. I’ve been debating where to permanently place my panels and have decided to start off with a ground mount (pole) system. I’m working on a new design for a low cost system and once I get the components collected, I plan to build it out. Yes, Will is the original solar instigator for many!! I’ve still got a lot to learn but I appreciate folks like Will who’ve generously shared their wisdom and experience. 👍⚡️☀️
Are you aware they are no longer making those inverters?
I built the same hand truck. And I tapped in one section of my grid tie solar panels ~4KW. I tested for a week and it was awesome. Consider I only got 3 full days of sun….No transfer switch or critical load yet. Just cords to windows AC and two fridges. It is true. Solar can be additive
That’s fantastic! It’s amazing how much power a 5.1 kWh battery🔋can store. When mine is just sitting around, it’s running a 1 ton inverter window unit A/C in our shop. Yes, solar power can be addictive. Once you figure out how to harness nuclear fusion from the☀️sun for free, you tend to get on a power ⚡️trip! 🤣👍💡🔌🤠
@@terrahillfarmdo you have a link to the window AC unit that you are using?
@@MyCabinLife here’s a link from Home Depot.
www.homedepot.com/pep/Midea-12-000-BTU-115-Volts-Window-Air-Conditioner-Cools-550-Sq-Ft-with-ENERGY-STAR-and-Remote-in-White-MAW12V1QWT/315241182
I’d check prices at Amazon, Costco and Walmart as they all run sales from time to time. ⚡️☀️👍🤠
@@terrahillfarm thank you!
How long can you use it on the little system that you built?
@@MyCabinLife I really depends how hot and/or humid it is. It will consume between 550-1150 watts when running. It’s variable speed so it might be low consumption in a smaller insulated room. It’ll ramp up and down depending on temp and setting. I use it in a way bigger space than it is designed for, so it’s usually running all out for me if it is really hot outside and it doesn’t cool a 1200sf shop near as well as a Bedroom.
So in a house, if the outside temp was say in the mid 80s, average use might be .5-.6 kW/hr. At that rate, you’d get about 7 hours out of 1 battery. If the battery is hooked up to solar panels, the panels could generate additional power during the hottest part of the day so you might get a total of 10-12 hrs run time in the mid 80s. At 95f the battery would last less. For a broad guess without solar panels and temp in the high 80s, I’d calculate an average of 5 hours, based on 80% SOC for a 5120ah battery at .85 kW/hr. In real world figures, every use case is just different. 👍☀️🔋⚡️🤠
Great Video, I did the similar but got lucky and found a homeowner pulloff and got 14 265's @34/panel. Quick payback in my area at current energy costs. Also cool artwork! Lik'd and Sub'd looking forward to more great content.
Thank you! That’s a sweet deal! I started out with some cheap used panels but could never get the rated power from them. Could just be me. I’m no solar guru but I’ve really enjoyed learning about DIY solar and sharing the experiences with others online. I’ve learned so much interacting with others and it’s saving us a big chunk of money 💴 every month. With better tech and declining prices, I think a lot more people will be discovering DIY solar systems in the coming months. 👍☀️⚡️🤩🔋
@@terrahillfarm You and the other solar content youtubers are truly doing a great thing by showing the average Joe what is possible. You are really appreciated !!!
Very nice, well done mate, thanks for sharing..
Thanks! I’m grateful for all the videos others have made that helped me learn new skills. Happy to share all the projects we have going on around here! ☀️💡😁 🪛 🔨
Great video! I have kinda a hybrid backup system. Ecoflow Delta pro refurbished and Extra battery ($5000) plus 2 48v 70ah lifepo4 batteries to supplement ($800). So have about 14K watt system for under 6K.
Thanks! That’s a fantastic amount of power for an emergency! Getting a good 120v solar system up and running is not that difficult. But going split phase 120/240v gets pricey fast. We’re going to keep running our critical circuits and add some more batteries with this system while we shop for the right whole house hybrid system. The three candidates are the 15k SolArk, 18k EG4 & the Schneider XW 6.8. Right now the Schneider is the front runner due to LF Transformer. ☀️👍⚡️🔋💡
@@terrahillfarmI bought two of the Growatt SPF 5000 ESs, which put out 240VAC, plus the external "Midpoint transformer", mainly to get 120VAC for my off-grid "RV home". I only needed one to run what I need, but figured that having an oversized system would be easier on the components. As I understand it, one could run up to about five of these with only one of the transformers, if one needed more power at one time. I like these as they can take in 6000W of solar at up to 450V open circuit.
This is how I got around the expense of the Schneider, et al.
Nice build. It's always best to build your own solar generator, but after spending 23 years repairing inverters including inverters from Trace Engineering, Xantrex, Magnum Energy, Outback as well as hundreds of Chinese made, low cost, transformer-less, high frequency inverters, I know from experience that high frequency inverter simply don't last. I would highly recommend staying away from the high frequency inverter that you chose if you want your DIY solar generator to last. The FETS (field effect transistors) that are used in these lightweight inverters are fine for power resistive loads like incandescent lights or small electronics but were never meant for running high surge loads such as motors. microwaves, refrigerators, air compressors and power tools. You might be able to run your power tools a few times but every time you turn that high surge, inductive load on, your damaging the FETs in your inverter. Guarantied, right about the time your warranty runs out. those FETS will fail and you'll be let with an expensive paperweight. Commercially available solar generators use the same lightweight high frequency inverters which is why most of them fail after only a year or two of use. If you want a solar generator that's going to last, then you're far better off spending a little more money and buying a low frequency, transformer based pure sine wave inverter.
Thank you Wow! that is some really good information to know. So the low cost HF inverter might be fine for budget/limited/back up uses but if running an entire house a LF inverter is going to have a much longer life running 24/7/365? I’ve seen some nice LF Victrons, Schneider and Growatt, but for running a typical 2000sf house with regular air conditioning loads which brand would you select if it were your home?
I agree I have twin magnum 4448 PAE LF inverters been total off grid 5 + years not 1 issue. Got a friend about 20 miles from me chose a Solark 12K non stop issues. Low frequency is the way to go if U are completely off grid.
when using a low frequency transformer inverter -
what is the ac conversion efficiency ?
is there an easy way to identify if an inverter uses transformers instead or FETS ?
Great video! I'm going to get that same setup for my RV and step it down to 12 volts for the dc panel in the RV. My backup plan for the RV when camping off grid is when I can't produce enough solar for my needs I have a 3500W Champion Dual fuel that I can charge the battery. I'm carrying propane anyway for the RV. The propane can sit around for a really long time without going bad unlike gasoline. And the carburetor doesn't gum up. You may consider that since you already use propane. Thanks for the video
Thank you for the great comment! This is a good set up for an RV, especially if you can set out some extra solar panels during the day. One thing to understand is that the EG4 Lifepower battery needs a very clean and stable electric source to charge and few generators are sufficient to do tthe job.The solution is to use something like the EG4 chargeverter. It is adjustable and does a good job charging from a generator. There are plenty of videos online showing it working. My inverter stays at home so I just charge with grid or solar. 👍☀️⚡️😁💡
Don’t go with Champion. I’v had two and they due pretty quick, especially in a warm damp climate. Go Honda. But not the open frame ones. Get one of the quiet ones. You will be much better off. I’ve been into electronics/ electrical for 60 years, trust me. Been using generators for 12 years. And worked at an automotive machine shop, so I know how to take care of them.
@@5400bowen I don’t know about others experience, but I bought my first Honda EU2000 new in 2008 and the second (used) in 2010. I’ve replaced a carb, converted one to dual fuel and maintained them to schedule and they both still start on the first or second pull. So I guess that is some good advice you’re giving there.. 😁👍⚡️
This was my power in NoVA. Good for you! Stay OffGrid my friends
Thank you, very informative!! Been planning to get similar in-home system soon from Signature Solar & SanTan as well. Hopefully with tax $ early next year if wife "lets me." 🙂
They’ve got some screaming deals on refurbished equipment right now.. my battery and inverter (refurbished) were available last night for around 35% off. Just tell her “solar equals free air conditioning!” Worked for me! 🤣☀️👍💰👀
@@terrahillfarm
Ha ha...I'll try that!! 😄👍
I wonder where you got this idea from? How unique
Thank you! I thought so too! ☀️⚡️🔋🤣
I did this a few years ago with a reliance 10 circuit manual transfer switch, custom built lifepo4 and a Growatt 3k inverter. I also power only 120v so the key is (which you have obviously done) is to cross the hots across both legs either in the switch or in the adapter so both legs get power. Obviously can’t do 240v since it’s not out of phase. Helping my neighbor build the Will Prowse design like you did with the EG4 3k.
Exactly! The hand truck solar generator has evolved and Will’s latest video really started me wondering if it could perform as well as our EU2000i’s in backing up the house through the manual transfer switch. No, you aren’t going to be running 240v loads with this set up, but with only 3000w output, that’s a good thing! Most similar sized generators only power 120v and the parallel kits typically use a TT-30R format. It’s easier to just buy the TT-30P to L14-30R dog bone adapter and just use a regular 4 prong generator cable right into the MTS. I did that with my 2 Hondas and it’s worked well for over a decade on 2 different MTS’s. It’s super easy to adapt the solar generator to the same format and you get so much more for your $ compared to the AIO box units.
Is that manual transfer switch and automatic transfer switch abbreviation?
@@kf5hcr176 I’ve always understood ATS meant automatic transfer switch and MTS was Manual transfer switch. But some days I can’t even find my keys, so I may be wrong! 😫
Noone has addressed that a 5 Gallon can of gas is significantly smaller than 8 solar panels! Ok if you have a static situation at your house but is not ideal for most emergency situations
@@kadin06 Thank You! Excellent point. There are certainly better use case scenarios for gas generators, especially for RVs. Personally, I like having multiple power alternatives and when my gas and propane run out, the sun will still be there… hopefully! ☀️⚡️🔋😁
Thank you so much for this video! You have inspired me to take on this project. Question: I am new to the channel and to off grid. I assume you are hooked up to city water since you did not mention running a well pump. Do you think this system could do that?
@@Handelson Thanks! Actually I’m on a well but my well pump is running off a separate meter. Since it is 240v it would take modifications to run it off this system. I’m presently working on a project to convert the well to solar and will publish when it’s completed. 👍👍👍👍
@@terrahillfarm Wow I will be looking forward to that video...thank you!
Have you recharged your unit with a generator, and if so how long to recharge off the generator ac power. Thanks!!
Thank you! Great question. The LifePo4 batteries like to be charged fast and the default inverter charge setting is 30 amps so that pulls about 1800-2000w from the grid to charge. My two Honda generators max continuous is 26.6 amps or about 3200w so they should work to charge the battery. The best way to charge one or more batteries with a typical generator is using something like the EG4 chargeverter. It has adjustable amps and can really push power into the batteries quickly. Most solar inverters discourage charging directly with a generator unless it’s got a really good pure sine wave. I’ll pull out the Hondas and do some testing to come up with some solid estimates. 👍⚡️💡🔋🔌🤠
That would be great I have 3 inverter generators, 4000 watts each 3500 running , Plan on building this system as a back up to run at night during grid failure. I'm still trying to learn about solar, thanks for your help. Stay safe brother!@@terrahillfarm
I just built this system myself off of Will Prowes TH-cam posts. It works great. A question I have is grounding. When I use it to run equipment it's not grounded. In my own mind, I should plug it into a grounded house outlet (even though the power is out) it's grounded. Any thoughts about this. I haven't installed a dedicated circuit panel yet, but that will be the next project. I live alone in the High Desert CA, and have 8x400 watt panels when I do get connected will run them in series.
Thanks! Great question! Admitting I’m no electrician (far from it) I do know this. When I run tools or equipment directly off my Honda eu 2000 inverter generator, it’s not grounded to anything. With the EG4 3000, when you are running solely off the battery, it’s not grounded other than to the inverter itself. in either case, I’ve never had issues. The issues seem to come whenever you make a connection to the grid through a plug, a service or sub panel and then how the neutral/ground bonding is set up at your particular grid service can become an issue. So I’m comfortable running solely off the inverter/battery combo, using it like a portable generator, but if plugging in grid power or tying into your service panel, I’d call in a pro to make sure your grid service is set up correctly. The old version of the eg4 3000 inverter included a bonding screw which bonded the ground and neutral and that caused some confusion and problems. In the new version, they removed the screw and ability to bond neutral and ground. As I understand it, the neutral and ground in your grid power system should only be bonded in one place, and that is the panel closest to the meter, or where your grid power comes in. When you bond ground and neutral in more than one place, you can have some dangerous issues. I’ll defer to any pro opinions on these statements so don’t take my response as the correct way to do anything! 😵⚡️☀️💡😁
@@terrahillfarm @terrahillfarm that's where my confusion is, the bonding ground on both the charge controller, and battery. The battery, and controller use the same ground inside the controller, so I also connected the outside bonds with copper wire. It looks pretty messy.
@@terrahillfarm definitely adding the transfer box with at least refrigerator, mini split, wifi power, is all I really need.
@@terrahillfarm definitely adding the transfer box with at least refrigerator, mini split, wifi power, is all I really need. I have electricians helping me figure it out too.
System questions:
Do you know how much standby watts are used by the system just to have it on with nothing attached?
Also what is the minimum voltage of the array in order to charge with a solar panel?
Thanks! I’ve heard between 50-77watts standby drain. I think 70w is pretty close. So you’d need about 300w of extra solar to offset the loss. You need a min of 120 volt solar to turn on the Mppt. Good news is you can run panels in a long series string to get there and that allows you to use older panels if you want o save money. 4-6 panels with 36v output would be a good starting point. The downside of low cost HF inverters is the high standby power. Haven’t found found any with less than 60 watts. ☀️⚡️👍💡
Do you have links to the rv cords?
My setup at the cabin they wired an RV plug for me that goes into my breaker box and I plug that into the gas generator.
And I watched will prowse video and that's when I got the idea and then I saw your video and I'm like well this would be great I could just plug the cabin right into that. But I need the part that receives the rv plug. For ac out of the inverter.
Have you tested the runtime with ref. freezer and small a/c ect. I know how to figure watts and watt hours, just seeing if you have tested your system.
Thanks! I have 2 full size French door refrigerators, one med sized chest freezer, on demand propane water heater and all the plugs, lights and C fans as critical loads. Since the appliances each turn on and off by thermostat, it’s tough to get an accurate wattage consumption as the watts fluctuate. I can tell you we lost power for 4.5 hrs a few weeks back and the temps were 100f+. I did not power any air conditioning since the house was already cool. It powered everything during that outage and the battery had almost 50% more power left over. I’d estimate we were averaging about 500watts/hr constant draw. Add a 6000 BTU window unit and the consumption would have doubled. Any air conditioning is going be a constant drain so that will shorten the run time significantly. With a 5100wh battery drawing down to 20% SOC you’ll get about useable 4000whs from the battery. I’ll set up a better test once it cools down a little. 👍⚡️☀️🔋
Still haven't pulled the trigger on building my system yet, hurricane season is on us now, Iv'e got the generators ready though. Will be watching your channel for updates. May have to ask for some advice and tech. help. Thanks! Stay safe...@@terrahillfarm
@@t.d.harris1311 Thank You! I’m not a big shot TH-camr like some of these folks but I enjoy diving into most energy independence projects and making quality videos to share the knowledge. I don’t mind answering questions as long as you don’t take my advice as an “expert”🤣
Can u power house with out batt in loop . Like after the batts are topped off it switches to just solar
You can set the inverter to use solar to keep the battery charged and when the battery runs down to 20%, grid power kicks in and runs it back up to 60% then switches back to solar, if available. This setup will minimize the grid use and maximize the battery and solar use. Takes a while to figure out settings but it can be configured more ways than I expected. 👍☀️⚡️
Good morning from fla thank you for the great video very helpful ,
Do you have a video where you cover how you wired everything together?
@@daveaz9962 let me see if I edited out some of that from the original video and if I find it, I’ll post something to show how it’s wired. Basically, the inverter has solar PV DC in, Battery DC in, 120v grid input and 120v inverter output to load. Battery & PV solar panels are two wires pos & neg. 120v AC in and out are three wires black, white and green (hot, neutral and ground) like any 3 prong 15-20 amp plug. In my application, I never used the 120v AC input, just the out put from the inverter. That’s a true “off grid” set up. You can cut the plug off a multi outlet (surge protector) power strip and wire it directly to the AC output. Then you can plug in what ever 120v appliance you like. Or, you can wire it up to a 30A RV style receptacle like I did, then buy an adapter that takes the three wire RV plug and adapts it to a Four wire generator cord. This is how I plugged it into my generator transfer switch. There are lots of options but just realize you will never get 240v power out of the inverter. It’s only 120v. If you need 240v step up to the EG4 6000xp. It will provide 6000 watts of 120/240 split phase power and is just about the best AIO inverter that size you will find for less than $1,500.
I believe the eg4 all in one you used has a minimum solar VOC input of 120v that’s probably the only downside to this system is you need a decent size array to charge it
That is correct! I would guess (4) 175+ watt panels minimum to get above 120v but more probably work better. Even though it’s rated for 500v, I would not go much over 400v. Always leave some room for safety with low cost solar equipment. It ain’t a Victron! 🤣
Exactly I have 3 180 panels and the voc is just 60. I would need 6 minimum to just scratch 120 that might not even be enough lol
How many of those batteries can i add to that setup? Because all of the videos with this exact setup use only one battery. And if you can would it be best wire the batteries up in series or parallel? Ive been wanting to do this project but i really need to have 3 maybe 4 of those batteries, would that inverter system handle it? Sorry im new and i kinda became addicted to solar lol
Since they are 48V nominal batteries, you should only hook them up in parallel, but you can put as many as needed in the system, if you can afford them. The reason THIS set up is using only one battery is to keep it mobile. Yes, the inverter could handle more batteries, as long as you use a properly sized fuse.
I think the backup question is dependent on how long you want to be good for with a grid failure. Panels and charge controller don’t need to be much if you aren’t using it except for outages. But if you want a weeks worth of power you need to calculate your needs( like for the emergency, or your “comfort range” usage and buy enough batteries. If they are going to sit unused until an outage, even a comparatively small panel/charger set up will charge them up fully to be ready for the apocalypse.
Agree! Having gone without power for almost a month straight after a hurricane, with only a generator for power, just having a solar charged battery that would let you keep basic lights,phones,internet and fans on while your generator rests a few hours is a worthy goal for energy resilience. Once you get started though, it’s just about adding more panels and batteries after that. And that quest my friend never ends! 🤣⚡️☀️👍🖥️💵
@@terrahillfarm yeah, once Ingot Solar I never stopped expanding. The more power you have, the more you use. But I’m in a remote area, so no going to a laundromat etc. I do as much for myself as possible. Plus, a well pump and I run an air compressor and other power equipment from time to time, and lights at night for security etc.
2 things; You might want to get 8 gauge solar extension cable for less voltage drop, and their more expensive battery with the screen, handles bigger loads much better, if you only have one battery, get the good one...I've experimented with different gauge solar extension cables, ya, you want the 8 gauge for less than a 3% drop, the 12 gauge drop is frequently 10 -13 % drop in power over longer runs..The difference in cost is minimal, get the 8 gauge..
I agree the LL is the better battery, but I was trying to keep the price a low as possible for proof of concept. The fact this inverter will take up to 500v from solar (and I’m running around 340v now) gives you the ability to use smaller PV wiring, since the amps are so low. That said, my permanent ground mount location is about 300’ away so that will require much thicker wire to avoid the drop in volts. I’m working on the design for the whole house system now and debating between the EG4 18k and the comparable Sol Ark. Ive seen many positives reviews on both. 😊
@@terrahillfarm Ya, I have the EG4 3000 it runs the lights and other electrical in 4 tiny houses on my forest property that I rent out on AIRBNB, they are just bedrooms in the forest with many windows, very beautiful..I have 2 of the EG4 6500's and 2 server rack batteries and a 280 ah battery made out of prismatic catyl LIPO cells, 16s 1p for a total of 23 kw's ..With 3 strings of solar maxed out almost 500 volts a string..Ya I'm aware of the ability to use smaller wiring, I'm saying that I wouldn't do that because the loss adds up every day, and you only buy that wire once..The EG4 18k is much much cheaper, but the Sol Ark purchased through Current Connected has better customer service, better warranty, and just known to be the very best, but pricey..I would go with the 18k, but, it's a tricky decision..
Very nice. I have a 4 circuit switch that I run full time off of a Bluetti AC 200 MAX with 2 additional batteries for 6144 watt hours. I built a 5 kwh rolling crate with a 2000 watt inverter and 3 charge controllers for less than half the cost of the Bluetti. I charge during the day while I'm at work and run two window ACs at night. I'll do a big one someday that can run the central AC. Thanks for the video.
@@terrahillfarm There is a video coming soon from Will Prowse, apparently he is having some issues with the 18k..They are software issues about exporting to the grid, which he doesn't want to do, but can't stop, and an inspection issue about a quick shut off for the solar I believe, apparantly the inspector laughed and said no way, he wrote about it today on his forum, and said he might return the unit, might want to read that and check out the video when he makes it..I think Sig Sol already has the fix though..Those issues might not affect you at all..No one is inspecting my units and I'm not connected to the grid, so that wouldn't affect me..
@@PWoods-cd6tk That’s great! I tell folks all the time that a transfer switch should almost be bought before getting a emergency generator! I went 3.5 weeks in the summer without power after a hurricane in 2008 and that experience started me down the home power solutions path!
Yes and no , depends on how much sun you have . I would do both
How did you wire your TT30 plug to the inverter?
Ordered an 18” L5-15P to TT-30R dogbone adapter off Amazon and cut off the L5-15 end.. Took the three wires (black/green/white) and wired them to the AC input of the EG4 3000 EHV Inverter.
APEXSPORTS 1.5FT RV 15A to 30A Pig-Tail Power Adapter Cord 5-15P Male to TT-30R Female Dogbone, Easy Unplug Design, LED Power Indicator. www.amazon.com/dp/B08NWRVNZ2?psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_ud_ct_PHNKJM49KF99QA6W5G1S&language=en_US
You could get a bit of ROI by leaving it connected, using solar panel to power the house and also having the inverter connected to the grid as bypass when you are not generating power?
@@TimotheFillionBrunet Yes, you can do that with most inverters, the trick is to make sure you account for the max amps coming in from the grid and from the solar so you don’t overload the inverter. So far I’ve chosen to switch back and forth from grid to solar instead of passing through. I have a bigger system now and am designing it to run the house off solar and battery back up 100%. Check out some of my newer videos to see how the system has grown from the little back up power station! 👍⚡️☀️👍🌞
Ive always thought that L14-30R would be best plug to use over a RV plus TT-30R. Whats your thought on using the EG4 6000XP instead so you can have 240V output in one unit for around $1450?
The TT-30R is only 120v which is fine for most smaller travel trailers. Once you get into coaches and bigger RVs running 240v appliances, I think you’ll move up to a 50 amp service connection. As far as the 6000xp goes, it’s definitely going to power most any RV, the challenge is installing enough batteries and solar panels and where do you place them? I’ve been testing the 6000xp and it has been running my entire 3 bedroom home with 3 tons of air conditioning. I Don’t think you can get a better inverter for under $2,000.
I just ordered the same inverter and battery. I’m confused on what size panels to get and what size solar cable 30 foot of cable
Thanks! Value wise, if it were me, I’d go for panels around the 400 watt range with a voltage under 38 volts. This will let you easily run a dozen panels in a single string and keep you under the 500volt/5000 watt inverter limit. 10 AWG PV wiring or similar size THHN in conduit always works well for me. If you have a really long run (200’ +) you may consider 8 AWG wire. 👍🤩☀️⚡️🔋
@@terrahillfarm I found some 340 panels local to me for a good deal I’m thinking of starting with 4 or five of those. Would 10 gauge be ok for that? It’s an emergency back up system.
@@jglassman1122 Used panels can be expensive sometimes. It typically costs $50-100 each to permanently mount a solar panel, so the more power a panel generates, the cheaper it typically is to install. If they’re 10-15 years old they may only output 60-75% of their rated power which means you may only get about 1/2 the rated power output on average. Since you’ll need more panels your install cost and your voltage will be higher limiting the number of panels you can use in one string. Make sure you understand your amp limits in the SCC if you try to run parallel strings. Best bet is to only buy used 6-8 and test them out first. If they regularly give you 85% + of the rated power then get more. I purchased my new 405 watt bifacial panels for around $100 each. I’m regularly pulling 90% of the rated power from them and that lowers the number of panels needed and the cost of racking them. Just some things to think about. Nothing wrong with starting out with dirt cheap used panels but make sure you know the performance before going in on a big purchase! 🤩☀️⚡️👍
@@terrahillfarm you made some good points. I found some brand new panels 400 W 155 each about an hour from me so I think I will go with those.
@@jglassman1122 Awesome. Don’t Forget, if you have paid a similar amount in for income taxes this year, you can get 30% of the price of your NEW equipment back in a tax credit when you file your tax return. That really brings the cost down! 🤩💴
try putting another inverter on back and fit 2 batteries on bigger cart
I currently have a manual interlock kit installed on my panel with a 30amp breaker & 30amp reliance inlet box NEMA L14-30P. How would I wire the AC out on the “solar generator” so that both legs are hot? (I would just leave all my 240v circuits turned off)
Can I just wire a NEMA L14-30R female as the output on the “solar generator”?
It depends…Personally, I prefer to move my critical load switching out of the main service panel, but for running a limited 120v source into a hot panel with an interlock, I’d call in a pro (which I am not) for assistance. This 120v 3000w inverter can spike to over 4500w so proper wire and breaker sizing is essential to avoid injury or fire. I bought a short dog bone adapter and cut off one end to do mine. They sell similar adapters for most plug sizes on Amazon. I think those for 3 into 4 wires are pre wired with both legs hot and thats why mine worked. If you want to get sound advice from actual experts, I’d join the DIY Solar Forum, those folks have probably done what you described before. 😊
Thanks for the video. I have a question, I just built this same set up you have and I have found when I have it hooked up to the PV and have the minimum of 120v coming in for the unit to start charging I have a small amount of power in the handles of my eg4 48v battery. Just enough to give you a buzz feeling if you touch it. Are you having this issue?
Thanks! I’d first make sure the inverter and battery are running the current firmware (check EG4electronics.com for files and instructions). Check the solar panels and see if you’re getting a buzz there as well. The Inverter and battery should share a connected equipment ground, the metal hand cart did it for me but there’s an equipment ground screw on the outside bottom of the inverter case you can run a wire to the battery case and see if that stops it. Lastly, with the older Ver. I 3000 watt inverter, they had an internal neutral/ground bond screw. If yours is a a couple years old or refurbished, it might still be in there and that could cause issues, depending on how you are using the inverter. Hope this helps and check the DIYsolarforum.com for more info on trouble shooting this inverter and battery combo. 👍☀️⚡️🤩💡🔋
@terrahillfarm You the man, you gave me a lot to think about and check. I just bought both from Signature Solar brand new, but I understand they can still be old stock, and the firmware needs updating. Didn't even think of that. The panels don't buzz me, but I will forsure look into these other tips you have given me. I will also make it a point to come back to this post with an update as to what the issue was for the next Joe like me in hopes it can help the next guy. Thanks for getting back to me so quickly!!
Can you plug in a window AC with this system?
Absolutely! I ran a Midea 12,000 BTU inverter window unit in the heat of summer (92F++). and could get about 4-5 hours off the battery. When I hooked up 2kW of solar panels up solar panels that time would double. If the temps were slightly lower it’d run longer but it was really hot when I was testing it out. If you’re running a window unit of 5-9,000 BTUs it may do better. It gets heavy, but you can add a second battery and double everything. 👍💡☀️⚡️
@@terrahillfarm yes, it's the smallest 5000btu window AC that frigidaire makes, label states "480w"
@@gwrulzmylife here’s the rough math: 5200 watt hours in battery x 80% usable per cycle = 4160 watt hours divide that by 480 watts and you get 8.67 hours run time. But you’ll lose around 10-15% converting DC to AC so you should get a solid 7 hrs run time maybe more if it cycles with a thermostat. Hope that helps! 👍
Great video! That's exactly what I want to set up eventually at my home. Also, I think it may even qualify for a 30% federal tax refund.
Thanks! Correct… if you “install” the solar system and battery backup in your home, and the components are new, I believe they qualify for the tax credit. I’m no CPA but I think that you have to have paid taxes that year, in an amount equal to the credit, to receive 100% of the credit. Apparently “some people” who didn’t pay any income tax were surprisingly shocked that they didn’t get the credit after purchasing a system. That’s why they say check with YOUR CPA before counting on the tax credit! ☀️🫣⚡️👍 💴
And another opinion on that matter is not going for the tax credit... what they don't know I have they cannot take/ban.
Especially if you're in the city and just have a few panels set up on the ground in your backyard.
The price of an EcoFlow Delta Pro is currently $2550 - just bought two of them from Costco.
Thanks! That’s a fantastic deal considering they’re $3,200 on Amazon right now! Certainly a better option if you need portability and aren’t heavily reliant on solar panels for charging. The costs (at $666/kW) and proprietary nature of their external battery makes it a less desirable option if your ultimate goal is to develop a whole house solar solution with batteries. 🔋 Your can purchase LifePo4s for around $325/kW right now. That said, I’m not turning one down if I’m stranded out in the woods somewhere and need to charge my phone or EV! 🌲 🐻 ⛰️
Use both !
So can the panels power the house alone . No grid with a bigg bank could work no
Thanks! This inverter requires at least one battery to operate but that’s not really enough to fully power a house. If your home was only 120v, your peak power never exceeded 3,000 watts throughout the day, and you had a battery bank with enough panels and batteries to cover 1.5-2x your daily electric usage, then this inverter could power your house, without grid (that’s a lotta ifs!). Calculating the right combination of panels, batteries and inverter is tricky since everyone has a different level of power needs. I’ll continue to show what works (and doesn’t) for my use and hopefully that helps folks understand what they need to ditch the grid! 👍⚡️🤠
alibaba an alixpress have inverters for $370 but you pay shipping i dont know about quality they also have batteries at half the price as well
Thanks! Ive heard both good and bad experiences buying batteries from Aliexpress. I think the next step up would be to mount an EG4 6000xp and a 14.3 kWH vertical battery like the power pro. You’d need a taller cart but you could run your whole house off it for days with solar panels assisting charging. If you want to save money, look into the 15 kWh Apexium battery kit from Docan. Last I checked you can put it together yourself for less than $2,000. That’s a lot of power! 👍☀️⚡️🤩💡🔋
Thanks! Ive heard both good and bad experiences buying batteries from Aliexpress. I think the next step up would be to mount an EG4 6000xp and a 14.3 kWH vertical battery like the power pro. You’d need a taller cart but you could run your whole house off it for days with solar panels assisting charging. If you want to save money, look into the 15 kWh Apexium battery kit from Docan. Last I checked you can put it together yourself for less than $2,000. That’s a lot of power! 👍☀️⚡️🤩💡🔋
This is the same system Will Prowse created recently on his channel.
Thanks! Pretty much the same inverter setup with an EG4 battery instead of a Trophy. My goal was to try and build a complete system with panels as cheaply as possibly, so I added the used panels and got the entire price under $3k. That smashes the performance specs of the AIO box units for thousands less. I’ve seen several hand truck systems built on YT but Will’s using the EG4 3000EHV was by far the best IMO. I think the cart he used works better but I already had mine sitting around. ☀️⚡️👍
@@terrahillfarm Yeah, I built one too with the Lifepower 4 battery. Will didn't mention the importance of grounding the unit if it's not connected to AC ground - it won't work, or anything about the Nader breakers for the PV in line which come with the unit (he said to plug it in at night). He also said to use a basic Yellow Jacket switch box for a 3K load and that's not advisable. Also, to pick on Will some, the AC in line on mine was sucking in over 2k watts from the wall, so you don't want to use a standard cord for this as you pointed out (but Will suggested). Definitely use a 10AWG cord. It gets hot otherwise. Will is a smart guy but he speeded through this one too fast.
@@tomproctor.archive The build was certainly minimal in safety considerations! You can adjust the Amps lower on the grid charging and 25A was a bit cooler than 30A. 100% agree the grid connect needs to be 10AWG minimum! Are you getting an accurate wattage and amps indication on the inverter from your PV? Mine seems to be lacking considerably.
@@terrahillfarm I haven't tested actual PV line voltage and amps to what the meter says, but it seems within range. Good call on the setting to dial down the input from AC, seems like a reasonable call.
If you buy a secondary inverter and secondary battery 🔋 you can plug grid power into the inverter if the battery gets low it charges the battery and you will never be with out power ever again just re wire your house to run off Solar battery inverter and if the battery gets low then it pulls power from the grid from the ac side of the inverter.
Thanks! That is correct. In fact, I’ve recently installed two EG4 6500xp inverters and plan to use the 3000 watt eg4 inverter as a back up 120v battery charger. Works great at 35 amps! I’m up to six batteries now and running the house on them. Should have a couple new videos out shortly, please subscribe to not miss those!
Nix the background music.
I had no doubt that you would not be successful in this project. Now, DIY your own battery cells, to get the full bang from the buck.
Cheers,
Definitely! From what I can tell a DIY battery build would knock almost 40% off the server rack battery cost. Now if they’d just make a nice server rack case where you could house the DIY battery and BMS, that’d be a winner! Ultimately, I’ll need 20-30 kW of battery to run my air conditioner over night, nothing but extra cash keeping me from that!
@@terrahillfarm 😂 I agree
Do you notice any led light flicker when running off of battery/solar. That is a problem I have with the Growatt.
No not really, and we have 12 LED can lights in our family room. I’ve heard this is common with the EG4 6500ex and Adam DeLay did a great review on this issue. SS said it’s caused by lower quality LED bulbs, but that’s hard to isolate. The problem may be more pronounced at night so I’ll check on it. Literally 3 days after we shot this video, a power pole snapped in half down the road and our power was out for 4.5 hrs. Plugged in this system and ran the house (except for central AC) till the power came back. 😊
Is your water well 120 volts?
Your battery is 5.4 kwH, ,not 5.4 kw?5.4 kwH sounds correct
Good job with the demonstration.
Looks like east Texas,
Nice place y'all have built.
Ham radio?
Take care and May The Lord continue to bless you and your family
@@kf5hcr176 Thank you! The well is 220 but not on solar yet. Battery is 5,100 watts and 48v but the current settings will only run down to 20% of the battery. We’re in central TX about 1/2 way between DFW & Houston. No Ham yet but it’s on my list to learn. This project was a first step in going to full solar. It’s worked better than I thought it ever would, except for some issues with Solar Assistant. Hoping to have that fixed by Friday so I’ll post a vid if I get it working. Yes, we have been truly blessed and we remember to give thanks daily🤠
I’ve been looking and while our LED can lights have not been flickering, we have some Edison style LED bulbs that are flickering slightly. If you have a house full of those, you my have issues! 💡☀️⚡️👍
Kind of an odd transfer switch having to have the panel open.
Sorry about that, thanks for pointing that out. I didn’t explain that the outdoor transfer switch door is made to close with the generator cable hooked up. There’s a small space for the cord in the bottom. An indoor transfer switch with outdoor plug will work for most applications, I’d just bought that outdoor switch for my last house since the meter was on the outside of the house opposite a room where I couldn’t mount an indoor switch. 👍⚡️☀️💡🤠
Did you give credit to Will Prose? This is his system.
@@robratkiewicz7102 Yes.
Run silent, run deep. I've gotta look into used panels.
Exactly! Can always recharge with generator if the sun ain’t shining. If you do not have a big tax bill to offset with the 30% tax credit on new panels, used is the way to go. I’m still stunned I could run the entire house off one battery 🔋
@@terrahillfarmI thought it was ok to claim the 30% tax credit on used panels since it’s a new install to you? (I’m not a lawyer or cpa accountant ect)
Thanks! I’ve heard several people’s opinions on that and as I read the description it just says “new equipment”. Personally, I can’t afford to be wrong so only on new for me. But, I’m not a CPA, so if your CPA tells you to take the credit on used equipment… Go For it and send me his card! 😮
No 240v, so my water well not work
Thanks! Correct, you’d need two EG4 3000 EHV inverters running in parallel to produce 240v. At $1,350 for 2, that’s about as cheap an off grid split phase solution as I’ve seen. I’ve also seen some 240v inverters that run off solar without batteries for running a well, but you’d be limited to pumping only when the sun is out. You could also look into a step up transformer to convert 120v to 240v. Everyone’s use case is slightly different so there’s really no “one size fits all” solutions in solar. I guess there is if money 💰 isn’t an issue but that ain’t me! 😁👍⚡️☀️
a guy ran a honda eu2000 genie for 4 years straight,, problem is they new an oil change every 25 hours
Thanks! My oldest is 15 years old. I’ve changed oil about every 50 hours or annually. They are expensive but they last. Longest life I’ve heard of is 25,000 hrs, but I’d be inclined to rebuild after 10,000. There are plenty of good clones out there for much less 💰 and those probably work great for most folks who use less than 100 hrs/yr. I’ve just not seen enough data on longevity from the clones. If I had to live off generator power for 4 years, the divorce would cost much more than the best Honda generator! 🤣👍😫🫣
Why be satisfied with a standby system, you have enough roof to go solar completely, the more solar you use the less mains you must pay for.
Thanks, that is exactly what’s happened! After seeing the potential for the backup system, we upgraded inverter, batteries and getting ready to buy more panels for full off grid system! I do have plenty of roof, but it is on a 4/12 slope from 16 to 24 feet high. I don’t bounce as well as I used to so I’m not climbing up there for maintenance or install. With unlimited yard area I will be enlarging my ground mount array. We have a nice southwest facing hillside but my Biggest obstacle is too many trees. Been waiting for it to cool off so I can go into full Lumberjack mode on them! ☀️⚡️💡👍🤠
Electric company goes down that much? Get rid of them. You got the panels cheep. You got a system just upgrade with more panels, and a second EG-4. Depending on average rainfall days, add a battery now and then to cover for them, 3 days should do. Then kick the electric company down the road. Pun intended.
You’re exactly right! That’s why I just installed two EG4 6000xp inverters and will be running the entire house off those and a 30 kWh battery rack. It’ll take a few years to pay the cost back but that’s not counting the benefits of never being without power. To us, that has a lot of value considering how far out in the woods we live. Prices for DIY solar component prices have gotten really low so perfect time to expand. If oil prices keep rising, you know utility companies will be raising their rates as well. 👍☀️⚡️💡👍🔋
😎👍
I don't understand why call it a generator? It doesn't "genorate" power.. it's a BATTERY
Thanks! Good point but that’s why I tend to use air quotes when I refer to “popular AIO solar generators”. Of course a gas ⛽️ generator just converts liquid petroleum energy ⚡️to AC power like an inverter converts DC solar power ☀️to AC power so that’s pretty much the same I guess. 😁👍
Actually it's a solar "power station". A battery alone without the other components will not run anything.