Making a Huge Waterblock from Scrap Copper -Trash to Treasure
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 มี.ค. 2022
- I Design, Cast, and Machine a huge water block from scrap Copper to cool a very large and intense surface mount COB LED chip for an insanely bright LED light engine I'm building.
First I get the scrap copper, Design my part in CAD, then I melt and cast the metal into a mould, Machine it and finish it in the CNC mill and finally cut out a see-through back cover with the waterjet to see inside of the water block as its working
Originally I was going to buy solid pieces of metal and machine my parts, but unfortunately all of the material that I need, the size I need it is not available for probably at least a few months.
That's why I decided to take scrap copper, melt it down in a furnace and shape it into what I need to make my parts and I now have my light engine fully operational at full power.
Fun Fact: Any static in this video was caused by 12μm Carbon dust that made its way into my camera and equipment...fun times.
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Watch this in 4k when possible, it looks incredibly awesome !
Carbon 12
www.c12.tv
Produced By: Carbon 12
Directed By: Matt Mikka - บันเทิง
Is it me or this should have been done in one single uninterrupted pour as allowing for the metal to start to cool down and solidify before another pour will result in less than ideal properties (aka transition zones prone to cracking/easier to break)? *Just asking, definitely not my area of expertise
He was saying that it was too heavy and he was losing his grip.
He recast it 2 more times to get it right... says in the video
Very true, I was wondering why there wasn't a separation in the machined part, then he mentions it was the 3rd casting because the first one had separated.
@@kingcosworth2643 Yey to basic physics based logic :)
It looks like he worked around that by superheating the final pour over the furnace to allow the whole item to re-melt into one item
Great engineering accomplishment while also very educational and entertaining!
Thanks this one was really tough.
@@WarpedPerception you are great engineer 👍
@@WarpedPerception What was that mixture you made 7:28 and why use it? It looked like Silicone/RTV and something else.
@@mmellow51 Probably mineral spirits or toluene to thin down the silicone so he could put on a really small even bead. The screws around the edge are doing all the clamping so the silicone is just there to seal.
Every man‘s dream: Have all the machinery and tools and you can build almost anything from scratch.
Very inspirational! 👍
I'm curious: Wouldn't it be easier to cast a simple cuboid of copper and then mill out the fine structure? Milling the fine structure in the graphite mold seems counterintuitive.
Maybe playing with molten copper and building new skills is the goal. 🤷♂️
Yeah probably counter intuitive but got the same result lol
Yes you're right, that's what I wanted to do in the first place but I was fighting the problem of aeration, and the larger the volume of the casting the more chance of air in the final part, and since I wanted to end up with a very beautiful looking part I wanted to minimize air as much as possible.
I'd say this was the right way to do it. While casting a solid block would seem to be the easier option, it has some pretty big disadvantages. Firstly, the sheer amount of raw copper needed, which isn't the cheapest material (I know he's using scrap, but why use more than needed). Then there's the time to machine out the desired shape. Also, copper is notorious for not being easiest material to work with.
@@byrond8592 the air is the problem, the large you go the more air you will get, by staying small with the cross-sectional dimensions of the cast I reduce or completely eliminate the air contamination to get a solid part with no air or pitting. as you pour into a small cavity the liquid copper is protected from the air. that's one reason why they roll large bars of copper instead of casting.
I knew when you stopped pouring you were going to have to make a new pour lol. Thanks for clarifying that when you were done milling, most content providers would have just said " and here's the final product, turned out great" this is why I like your channel, plus I watch you and can see your wicked smart. Your very inspiring. Keep up the great work. I've missed your videos 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks! Yeah I kind of knew too when I was pouring it, I was like oh s***, but it was really heavy and I was losing my grip which is why I set it down and repositioned. But that gave it enough time to cool and become a solid. Thanks I appreciate it!
@@WarpedPerception you have a great channel I really liked the diesel powered go cart and then same cart jet powered great stuff man I love all your videos
@@byker4lyfe1 bring the diesel kart back!
Great thing! Did the mould survive all the casting tests or were there some more?
You're*
I am really IMPRESSED with the quality of that 3rd casting
Thank you
Same. It looks like a production item with how clean it came out
Watching how complicated the casting process was just blows my mind that they were doing it 6000 years ago. That must have been a lot of trial and error. Amazing!
6000 years ago the process is like euv today
You have no idea how happy it made me to see you properly heat that copper and graphite before pouring it. So many people can't get copper to that super high temp it needs to flow and never even heat the graphite then wind up with crap.
Well done.
Thank you, yep that's for sure the graphite conducts way too much heat plus you don't want any moisture. But you know what's up
Is this because copper is so thermally conductive and loses heat fast?
He's literally making an artificial sun, with such a high CRI, colours won't look washed out, imagine office lights to actual sunlight, it's amazing. Also, I absolutely love molten copper.
You got it, this light in particular at 2 ft distance is six times brighter than the sun at the subject. I obviously have to diffuse it and treat it a little bit which takes away some brightness. But yeah the CRI of this is amazing and you said it perfectly, the colors won't look washed out they would look very natural, and an office with high CRI lights would probably be amazing to work in. Typically they use fluorescent lights which are very green in color and the CRI sucks probably like 80. If you ever see a fluorescent lamp with a spectrometer it's green is off the charts.
@@WarpedPerception I've been wanting to build a custom light for my aquariums. To replicate the sun is my ultimate goal with it. This is so amazing! The applications for this kind of technology is limitless.
I love lighting to say the least! It's crazy how just the spectrum alone can change the whole mood of a room! There's an artist named James Turrell who uses light as the medium for all his works. He literally warps your perception of everything from depth to color. I know that chip is experimental, but maybe you could point me in the direction of a similar chip?
When an LED requires that level of liquid cooling, that alone speaks volumes about how powerful it is. This is obviously geared to the professional market, because those slow motion shots are amazing, and flicker free.
Oh man. This would be great for my large tesla coils' bridge.
Awesome work!
I'm gonna check that out is that on your channel?
@@WarpedPerception yes, it i!!! His channel is amazing. Im a big fan
@@WarpedPerception great video by the way. Thank you for sharing. I friend of mine had an amazing idea to machine graphite like that. I would like to share with you.
Ok feel free to share, you can DM me on Instagram or email "Carbon12TV at Gmail Dot Com"
Thank you glad you liked it .. it was so much work
It warms my heart to see someone who cares about QUALITY as much as quantity. Great work!
As an engineering student, this is the content I love to see. I love learning the process and you explaining mistakes that you've made, why they happened, and how you've corrected them is exactly what most engineering project channels on TH-cam lack. Thank you and congrats on the cast!
When I worked for a copper smelter (ASARCO) in the early 80s we had 3 types furnaces Reverb, Converter and Anode. When we did a pour of the copper out of the Anode furnace the moldes were preheated. Also we used green douglas fir inserted part way in and used a air piston to drive the inserted end of the log to the bottom below the copper surface. This helped to remove entrained O2 from the copper. Anodes were about 86% copper and went on to the refinery.
I’m continuously blow away, awestruck & inspired by the amazing level of intelligence, ingenuity, know-how, creativity & extensive range of talents this dude has! An absolute badass of a human being!
Showing failures is good. Working past them is better. Showing how you did it, the best.
Thank you, considering that I almost gave up on this project, I appreciate that
@@WarpedPerception I am no expert, but I have watched a lot of people pour and cast copper (and other metals) into various shapes, and it is a RARE thing to see them end up looking this good. Third attempt or Thirteenth attempt. I think that your "through the flux" technique really helped keep the dissolved oxygen out of the copper. But man, those thin channels? INSANE.
Details on why the failed castings are definitely the most valuable to anyone wanting to begin casting. Also the transformation from scrap bin into the finished machined part was awesome!
Awesome to see good engineering process.
Just my 2 cents, if you put the inlet for the coolant low on one side, and high on the other it may work even more efficiently. I think currently the coolant is pretty much just moving across the centre of the core. We had the same issue with our race car intercooler, when we moved the inlet and outlet, we saw a very big change in our intake temps. :-)
Makes sense. Better liquid distribution over the heat sink.
At my job we design medical devices, and spend a lot of time working on heat transfer blocks. I've yet to see an optimized block that had a lot of straight parallel lines. The best ones always look organic. Sometimes a straight-lines block is selected because of manufacturing cost, but they never perform as well as the ones that make our prototype shelf look like an H. R. Giger alien autopsy.
So, based only on the visual appearance of your block, I suspect that your design is not optimal, but I can't use our expensive machines at work to confirm it. Maybe contact one of the generative design software suppliers? They might be willing to design a part for you, just for the publicity of having you compare it to the straight-lines design.
Great point!, And you are absolutely correct about the parallel lines. However in this case I needed more flow, and I did in fact computer simulate all of my designs before making them. So one of the bigger issues I faced was the tooling I had to use to cut the slots with the max RPM I have available is not well suited to cut intricate shapes at that depth and level, I would have had to change my tooling very often. And with a very lengthy machine times I did not want to babysit this thing for 10 hours. But yeah the type of machine I had to use had a huge Factor in my final design, I also needed a higher flow rate and less pressure drop between the inlet and the outlet of the block. Your spot on though, that was a good comment.
@@WarpedPerception If you want to squeak a little more performance out of your cooling loop, either add a little bit of isopropyl alcohol to it with a maybe a single drop of soap, or get a bottle of water wetter... It will help with the boundary layer flow by acting as wetting agent to allow even greater heat transfer. It doesn't take long for it to work either, put it in, and maybe 2-3 minutes depending on your flow rate to get everything distributed, you should be able to see it change.
Might be an idea for a video if you can add it to a stable system while the pump is running, like add it to the reservoir once you hit your steady state 122F... see how much it changes.
@@kleetus92 are you into pc building by any chance, I have never heard someone mention this and I wonder if its viable in a PC water loop in terms of longevity.
@@TurkeyOW I am. It will work in any water based heat transfer system. My first time seeing it was in high performance car applications where the cooling system was being pushed to the limit, even with a bigger radiator. It may not solve all your problems, but it will give a few extra percent of heat transfer. You can buy a product literally called 'water wetter' in car parts stores... it's a clear redish pink liquid, apply per instructions.
@@TurkeyOW you may not see any significant improvement in PC application where we're deaing with very light loads (only a few undred watts), compared to car engine cooling.
Also, acrylic parts hate alcohol :) it's generally advised not to use alcohol in custom loop coolants, or clean those parts with alcohol based cleaning solutions.
Watching your videos is like watching Gandalf do his stuff - every single episode, without fail, is inspirational, useful and entertaining. Thanks for doing this!
Thanks!
Outstanding. Every project you do is cool AF. Looking forward to you describing the significance of the type of light you are using.
Quick tip for calculating the amount of copper you need: Create the actual part in f360 alongside the mold, set the physical material, then check the body's properties for the volume & weight you need. No maths needed :)
Thanks, I should have done that, I didn't actually think of it. But at the end it was okay because I wanted to make it sort of visual where people could understand instead of just hiding behind the software calculations. But honestly if I would have thought of it I probably would have went that route since I did have an actual part drawing before even the mold.
With all the machining involved, would it be more cost efficient and easier to cast a slab of copper and then mill it all out?
Yes absolutely
Have you milled copper? If he broke drills and taps how well would milling have gone?
I have never seen anyone hold a pen like you do. Good video. 10/10
Absolutely gorgeous piece! It's a work of art and science
notification squad, Have a nice weekend guys!🔥🔥🔥
Thanks you as well !
I am wondering why you went through the whole struggle with the graphite mold and the nasty dust everywhere, instead of machining it from solid copper or using a lost mold made of sand?
My question too! Whats the answer?
I assume he just didn't think about it at the time. You can't really say the mold reduced Machining time since he took like 12 hours to Machine the graphite anyway.
I love watching this guy - his mannerisms and accents reminds me so much of my two college roommates from South Jersey. Plus he is brilliant and a heck of a machinist, mechanic, welder/fabricator, and really knows his electronics. Dang good filmmaker too. Glad I found this channel.
Skill, knowledge, patience and having the right tools. The recipe for success.
Very nice work! I love how clean the finished product came out! The design of the block could be adjusted to get a more even flow across all of the channels, increasing the heat exchange. As it is now, the upper rows wont get as much flow through them as the coolant wont want to fight gravity to go through those channels. Placing the inlet in the top corner and the outlet on the opposing bottom can help this immensely. It could let you cut down on some material too if you end up making a bunch of these for this experimental LED. But hey, if it works it works!
I was actually thinking the opposite with the inlet at the bottom and outlet at the top.
I feel like having the inlet at the top could cause the water in the other top corner and around the center to stagnate because the cold water would want to sink straight down, then across rather than trying to flow across the fins. Having the inlet at the top would at least evacuate the hottest water first.
It might even be best to place the inlet right over the center so the center always gets the coolest water.
That being said, I ain't no scientist so I could definitely be wrong haha
If he made the waterblock side that the led mounts on a mirror finish it would have helped alot in transferring the heat as well. I'm not sure what he used as a TIM but if it the block was as smooth as possible it would have needed less and cooled better.
I would drill and tap a hole on top of the water block and use a bolt with a o ring to seal it, just to make priming the block easier and ensure its totally full
That's a great point, however since I want this to be a maintenance free device, I'm actually redesigning that back cover to allow it to automatically bleed and fill, this back cover was just for the video
@@WarpedPerception Awesome! I can't wait to see the completed version.
I would also use a flexible sealant like Hylomar or instant gasket to seal the cover onto the block as the coefficient of thermal expansion of acrylic is about 4x that of copper.
Thanks for the great videos. I can appreciate the hard work and patience you put into these videos.
Son of a biscuit I am simply enamored with your process, production, and product. Literally my favorite content creator on the planet 🔥
Dude! Your channel is absolutely insane, loved every second of this video!
Thanks!!
Mount the cooler so the fins are vertical so you get even flow over all the fins.
Anything made out of copper looks great in my opinion.
You are a very clever man. I am in awe of your technical versatility.
Wouldn’t you get better heat transfer from copper to coolant if the intake and exhaust ports for the coolant were offset? (Intake at the top left and exhaust at the bottom right for example)
Intake at bottom, exhaust at top for better effect. ( Heat rises, self venting, counter current circulation to a larger surface area of the copper block)
i was thinking that as well, plus microfinning (probably wouldnt even need to be that "micro") all the horizontal channels to dramatically increase the actual surface area and help with heat transfer.
@@za7v9ier yup and you will get more even flow when the pressure of the water is forced up.
I just noticed his right hand is missing a finger, this tells me he has alot of full time experience in engineering. Love to be your assistant. Love all your videos 👍
I'll have to say this is really cool that you took the time to be precise.
Every time you melt down the copper you burn off impurities to make it pure.
It's really bright you can't see your hand. I can only imagine what happens at night.
Be safe team
Thank you !
Beautiful work!
What was the solvent used to dissolve the silicone?
Mineral spirits... Nice trick not many know. Also goop and toluene work well but that solvent is nasty stuff.
Had the same question. Super thanks
*this man is the definition of an Engineer going God Mode.* 💪🏻🔥
Thank you !
Such a cool thing to do :) , I tried to do a copper pour the other day for some fun and found out the crucible i was using had some layer on the inside that bubbled out and copper is now stuck inside it...lesson learnt to check max temp before using as i have had other get holes over time but never that (pre-heating is always a must)
Just quit a job where i was machining all sorts of heatsinks just like this but out of blocks we extruded, so seeing it done basically backwards from nothing is pretty neat
That's a Nichia turbo array led prototype?!? I think yes! What an absolute unit here! New level! To be used in IMAX projectors etc! It's amazing - how can I get my paws on one of these? Love it!
I love your work mate! you inspire me to keep pushing the boundaries of making, and to keep learning. Keep up the great work!
2 relative easy sugestions to make it even colder: 1. Install input (or incoming stream) fitting on lower part and output fitting on upper part of plexiglass.(BC thermodynamics say that cold gas/liquid is allways at bottom and warmer allways at top, with my suggested setup You should be able to remove more hot coolant from cooler)
Or even easier, just rotate block 90° relative to ground, so input fitting on bottom, output on top.
2. Polish surface where LED chip is mounted on block (or whole block plane it whould be easier), You will get better contact between 2 planes and better heat transfer from chip to cooler. Otherwise amazing cooler 👌🏻 I like this project 👍
That's a great idea, as for the cover this was actually only temporary because I need to use it in any orientation, so I actually redesigned that entire backplate to allow it to Auto bleed as well as deliver coolant in any position. As for polishing the back part that I should have done and I did not think about but that makes absolute perfect sense. I'm sure if you magnify down on that back plate there are valleys and peaks for sure... I totally have to do that. Thanks!
Awesome to see, and I like your thought process on keeping air out of the copper.
Love me some high efficiency led cobs
Wow Matt! You keep raising the bar on showcasing a mix between technology, wrenching, creating, and imagination. I wish people grasped how impressive what you do is considering you aren’t working at a multi billion dollar R&D company.
Thanks! Yeah the last few episodes I've been trying to make them hybrids. Doing exactly what you said , next thing I'm going to be working on is just making more videos and making it more organic so I can be more myself and more of a character. A lot of times I'm very rigid because I need to make sure I hit all of my points throughout the video to keep the story solid, especially with complicated subjects. This is necessary for me to show the videos I'm going to be showing in the near future where I'm going to let people into some of my actual projects.. thanks for the kind words!
You've been teasing your subscribers about for so long, it's cool to see the finished product and the full design process behind it.
I know I had no choice I was so behind on this project, but finally it's behind me and the jet powered Tesla and the four months that the Tesla was broken down, time to move on to some free flying fun videos now
@@WarpedPerception Can't wait!
Just a tip, you could just check the full volume of the part in fusion, compared to the volume without the extruded channels by right clicking on the body to inspect it.
I know but I wanted to make it more visual for those who don't use CAD
Very very impressed by that casting. Well done! 👏
glad to see you used copper wire, it is always the cleanest copper 'scrap' that you can get.
Thank you for the tip about the flux before melting the copper to keep out gasses. Awesome channel.
Your welcome! And thank you
Thank you for the copper casting tip about adding extra flux to the crucible first, heating the flux till its melted then adding the copper //
Love your project videos.. Keeps the mind curious.. Thanks.
Dude you are smart and such a great job putting these videos together takes a lot of time and hard work I'm sure. So thank you!
Another good one Matt. Always intriguing to watch you work.
On the Water cooled Copper heat sink, the water input connector should be placed further to the top and the output water should be placed lower. This would ensure all the water was being replaced, and not only some. This would help with the cooling.
Wow this channel never ceases to amaze me. They always make me want to get off ass and do something. Thank you again for bringing this content to the people
Dudes got one man army but for machining and making things. Guy could do anything
Followed the posts you were posting, and you blew my expectations away. This is what the Slo-Mo guys need when filming in 1M fps.
yes, thank you!. no, I need this light when I'm filming 1M FPS, Slow-mo Guys need more ideas and to unblock me from commenting on their channel, also they need to stop combing my comments section for ideas....LBVS
Thats bright as hell. What a cool project
This was really cool, and a much better heatsink than anything I've seen "home-made" elsewhere - like Linus Tech Tips or similar. Great project and result and learning process along the way, subscribed!
Thank you for sharing your learning process with us! Saves me time when i go to do this kind of thing myself. I learned; use flux BEFORE hand, when it fully melts, then add your metal
Yes that method worked amazing for me.
Nice job...
Its probably already been suggested but you should try the following:
1: current design turn the heatsink 90 degrees
2: modify the current design with your inlet hose top left corner and outlet hose bottom right
3: modify number 2 and have the fins on the block at 45 degrees
The idea is for all the above to increase the flow efficiency of the fluid in the block thereby reducing the temp.
(you could also try radiator coolant ???)
Wonderful work and definitely worth the wait! Love your videos!
May your hardwork and ideas bear fruit soon
I've got no words. Just great! very impressive!I i enjoyed seeing it very much
Epic video. Thanks for sharing the fails too. That thing is a piece of art. It's got me thinking I may be able the make my own radiator for my old car
I wondered why you needed such a bright light. Very cool video!
For a couple of reasons but mostly I'm aiming to create some mind-blowing high-speed videos... Been working with high-speed stuff for a long time now and the biggest problem is lighting.
awesome....Glad to have you back making videos.
Thanks! I'm glad to have finally pulled everything together now
This is amazing, and inspires me to continue pursuing my engineering dream :)
work of art
insane work......awesome!
hate to be late but worth a shot.
What about adding an O-ring and making a checkered pattern, it would add a bit of extra machining time but I wonder how this would affect performance. If adding these helps make the block hold more pressure, you could use a stronger pump and go longer and dial the pump back and extend the life of the pump.
Insane, why not?! Lol love the attention to detail
Beautiful! Need this for my Vaio Laptop!
Way to increase efficacy and design on this would be to:
1. machine a o-ring channel into the copper to better seal and easy removal to clean the water block.
2. No sure about mill or limitations but cutting smaller, denser fins into the copper will give more surface area to exchange heat. Also cross cutting the channels will give more surface area as well.
Overall the finished product worked and looked great!
All your points are right on the money, I didn't machine or no ring because I didn't make the wall thick enough because I was trying to save weight. As for the fins, that's exactly why I didn't cut them thinner, that was as small as I could go on that Mill with that RPM all that would have taken a week to mill that thing. Same thing with the cross cutting, my original design idea was cross cut and leave tapered spikes for the heat transfer but with the current Mill that I'm using, very low RPM, that would have taken an eternity...lol. thank you
@@WarpedPerception Like i said before, the part turned out awesome! Really enjoyed the whole process.
"I'm not Tony Stark!" Great Job!!! Love your channel
Freaking Amazing. The slow motion was as sharp as that knife.
Thank you
Having that just be a solid block of copper is less efficient than it could be. You could find and order a vapor chamber sized up to a close fit, and use that as an interface between the diode and the waterblock. Or, failing that, you could press flatten a bunch of heat pipes and have them spread the heat across the water block. Of course, both options will need a lot of thermal compound or epoxy to actually get the job done, but the end result would be a more efficient use of the surface area within the waterblock, to get the heat away. Even as it is, you've got it running at just above spec for most silicon processors, which should be within spec for heatpipes and vapor chambers, so adding something to better spread the heat output could easily reduce the tempurature by several degrees.
Thanks for that info, you're absolutely correct, however I wanted to keep the manufacturing as simple and cheap as possible. I will get the temperature down further once I had a large radiator outside the unit. Or I might redesign it later on all together to be even smaller. In one of my earlier iterations I did in fact try the heat pipe idea, it did not work. If I had a better mill I could have totally went smaller on the fins. I didn't fact try to go as soon as possible on the back plate, but what I ended up with at a certain point was a hot spot right where the chip mounts on the liquid side of the block, I had to change up the geometry of the inside of the water block to allow a more even heat spread. I may end up redesigning it later on but for now I just need the light to work for a project... Thanks I always love the intellectual comments cuz it gets my gears turning!
Appreciate that you mention the metric units also✌✌✌✌
here's an idea for cooling. liquid cooling. but not just any liquid cooling, but one that both makes use of a very thermally efficient fluid, and basically high pressure pulse width modulated high capacity liquid to air intercooler. the idea is to have the fluid have a periodically interrupted flow to help the intercooler which itself is liquid cooled by a highly chilled liquid, to help with more efficient transfer of heat energy. think 2 cooling circuits running parallel to eachother through the intercooler block in such a way that it can constantly be kept cool from one resivoir of a cooled liquid while absorbing heat and more quickly cooling the liquid to the main circuit. no idea if it would work, but it seems like it could be a more efficient way to do it than a single intercooler, and not need a second one to compensate.
That's a friggin great idea! Great light!
One design flaw is that you should've machined thinner fins closer to each other and then cross-cutting them, making many "pins" instead of channels. This way you would've created way more heat-dissipating surface in contact with water, increasing the efficiency exponentially; this technique is used in PC watercooling and it works great
Definitivamente muy interesante, tienes un excelente canal 👍👍👍
Dude you would be the perfect neighbor to live next to
🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Dam I would love to have this light and strap it on my Camary and turn it on when someone is driving with their high beams on 😊
This was both inspiring and entertaining. I am now going to capitalize on this and stop procrastinating.
Your cinematography skills are on point!
Thank you
What some overclockers like to do is throw the whole radiator in an ice bath. If you use something like acetone or alcohol to cool with, you should be able to get it colder than that with no problems. You could also get some extra fans and do a push pull configuration to get a bit better airflow over the fins of the radiator.
Those are great ideas !!
and slap some Noctua iPPC 3000RPM 120mm on the rad! instead of those cheap DC fans from 1995 :)
This was an incredible, super educational video!! I love your content and style. 😄
Wtf .. incredible.. Respect 👏👏🙏🙏
usted vive el sueño de todo ingeniero, vivir para crear, construir, aprender y compartir con orgullo todo lo adquirido por el bien de la humanidad, mis respetos señor, usted es fenomenal
I work with alot of cooling components for very powerful computers and hands down the best way to do a liquid cooled block is to have a completely hollow cavity and fill it with fin stock the will allow coolant through and then solder or braze a cover over it. the fin stock maximizes the area that the coolant is touching and it can wick away heat insanely good
I agree with you, that was the way I wanted to go, however I needed something very strong in robust to use on set for film and my TH-cam videos. I can almost guarantee you that if I just soldered a cover over some thin stock, during the first shoot I would have coolant all over the place and a burned out cob. When filming even TH-cam videos and you're in a hurry or you're caught in a situation stuff gets knocked down hit abused, this light is not going to just sit on the desk I can assure you. That being said I completely agree and in the future when I get my next CNC machine in a few months, I may do some really high RPM intricate milling on another piece just like this to make an improved version. Unfortunately the automatic manual machine I'm using now is based on a dinosaur machine.
I gotta say I'm impressed with how far you've gotten with your skills, loving this, it was wild to see all that graphite dust everywhere though, hope you were wearing a respirator during that time
thanks! my skills have always been there, I just wasn't filming it, yes respirator is a must.
@@WarpedPerception Ah well, I know I would definitely love to see more of the creative stuff you do, that casting to finish was wild, any more casting planned?
Impressive heat plate Matt and cool video as always hopefully it will let you play with the light source you were building to light future slow mo video
short version:
-more thermal mass {large coolant reservoir}
etc
long version:
to improve the heat dissipation wothout too much work you should add a semi large resivoir, about a gallon or more coolant to increase the thermal mass which will in turn passively contribute to cooling off the COB. and assuming that that is just dyed water, i reccomend using the same coolant for most cnc machines since they have nanoparticles specifically designed for pulling away head energy without degrading for a few weeks of constant use, and since i can guess this wont be on 24/7 for nearly a month i can wager that it would help. also keeping your radiator, resivoir and pump above the cooling block should allow it to automatically fill in the air bubbles. i plumb heat dissapators for mazak machines all the time at work when we get new ones so this stuff is somewhat in my field.