More than likely when a Geo metro exhibits those symptoms, check the number 6 fuse on the panel under the dash, this is the ignition fuse. it wil be the second fuse up from the bottom on the left hand side of the panel. it is a 20a fuse, the reason this fuse blows a lot of the time is the 02 wire that has worn thin on the loom that runs up and over the timing belt cover, there is a routing clip on the front of the engine just below the valve cover that is held on with a 10mm bolt, this clip is metal and will wear through the loom, shorting out the wires inside. that is usually pops the fuse as they run on the same circuit. hopes this helps! I have had more than a few in the shop, all the same thing, crank, no start and an absence of warning lights on the dash in the on position.
Now as for this vehicle specifically, Geo Metro's have a common issue with the grounds on the intake becoming corroded. I would start there. Many electrical components, including some in the ignition circuit, ground to the back of the intake manifold. There will be a few wires that ground on the bottom passenger side of the intake manifold, right above the starter. Remove the bolts, sand and clean the area where they connect on the intake, sand the bolt and sand the wire's terminal.
I had the same issues, changed everything spark related. Brought it to a shop, guy told me it was a clogged injector. We just cleaned it up with carb cleaner and its working fine now. I do however need to buy a need one asap since its just a matter of time before this happens again
Check the FI (fuel injector) fuse under the black fuse boxes on the drivers side...it controls the ECM and you will get no spark and no check engine light either...It is a 15 amp fuse and can blow on a short in the system
I bet this is what happened when his hose blew water everywhere he just said fuel pump to save grace it probably dried out and started working after he took the time to change fuel pump just a guess mind you, love these cars.
I know its been a while, but my next question would be the connection between the ignition switch and the primary side of the coil or the distributor ground. If your car has a ballast resistor, that could be the issue. I have a ‘93 three cyl. Than runs rough at idle, even after new plugs, wires, rotor, and cap. I’m thinking of cleaning the EGR and searching for a vacuum leak.
The crankshaft position sensor monitors the position of the crank and is used by the computer to control timing. If it's not functioning, you will not create spark. I'm not a mechanic, but just a minor league Metro enthusiast. Therefore, I don't know everything there is to know, but I do know that this is the path of diagnosis we should be following. We DO NOT just replace random parts. You might even cause more problems by doing that.
MAP is the dice size black plastic square/rectangle mounted on right side (from drivers seat) with about 3 wires, and one vacume line. Remove line and check to see if it is clear.
First I would use a multimeter and make sure that we aren't experiencing any kind of a voltage drop between the battery terminal and the wire feeding the ignition coil. My guess is that there is going to be a voltage drop somewhere between the two. Somewhere in this circuit there is going to be a voltage drop and you should use your multimeter to trace it down. It's likely going to end up being a bad ground in this case.
Try voltage drop test on the the ignition coil. And clean your battery post they look really dirty this cause the battery to produce less voltage and might be the problem that your coil is nt getting enough voltage .. U can clean it with backing soda and water
omarlowboy got the same thing going on with a 93 geo fuel pump was the 1st thing I replaced because it was constantly staying on now it charges when key is turned and cut of when primed and kicks back on when you try and start it. Got gas coming out the exhaust so I know gas is going in I just don’t have any spark I got power going to the timing I’m about to replace the cap and button I hope that works if not going to have to replace the timing but 2nd thing I done was make sure it did not jump timing this thing has turned into a damn head ack and I have a feeling a money pit
After this, try and start. This commonly solves issues with weak or no spark for Geo Metro owners. While you are at it, you wouldn't be doing too bad to disconnect and clean corrosion from just about any ground in the circuit you see including the main ground to the transmission. The only other thing that I could think of right off the top of my head is the crankshaft position sensor. This would only be a concern if we are getting NO spark though, and it sounded like we are getting some.
That is what I was thinking my metro is doing the same. I put some gas in the carb but it didn’t start. How would a fuel pump stop it from getting fire?
One time I replaced the dis cap on my truck and it made and acted the same at way and turned out that the cap was backwards, the striker was the wrong side also check the spark plugs and if the wires are correctly wired. Check starter I hope it starts running soon
I talked to a guy and told him about my problem that it just died and I noticed the fuse had blown, he asked about if we checked some plastic piece on the distributor/rotor when we replaced the ignition coil. He said if it was cracked it could do that. Well my man said he thinks that's what it is now but it's been too flipping cold out to go take it off. I don't know what piece he is talking about but thought I'd let you know.
I'm skeptical about any new sudden problems with the coil/wiring. (But you may check to see if your two wires going to coil have a full 12 volts)... Just two Ideas: Make sure your Distributor is not 180 degrees off. I think you can put it in two different ways. And make sure your MAP suction hose is not clogged with condensation/water. If no vacume.. no fuel.
my 99 Metro has low oil, and is missing spark in the 3rd cylinder. I'm here on youtube looking for info on how to change the cap/rotor, I got plugs, wires, oil filter, and oil, just need to replace the rotor too while I'm at it. Another truck I had wouldn't start when I changed the cap/rotor, and I eventually gave up on the truck altogether.
If no spark its timing belt. Even tho it may look alright,A key way could wobble it out of timing.Best bet is pull off the cover and check to be sure then change it of course ,U gone to far to quit.And U don't seem to be quitting hahaBest of luck also make sure water didn't get up in the distributor cap if so just spray some WD-40 in there and let it air out put it back together try fire up ..
Goddamn... With all the parts you changed you should have just went ahead and installed a new engine! lol I don't care what anyone says, these are good little cars. I wouldn't sell mine for anything! If i had the money i wouldn't be scared to drive mine across country and back!
Take out ur dash speed thing and there's blubs in the back replace it and there's a chance u don't even have one installed mine had the same it was missing
I'm betting that when you swapped the distributor, you got it 180* out, which despite what people can tell you, CAN be 180* out on a Metro. Just noticed this movie is 6 years old though...lol.
had same problem with my suzuki swiift. if the check engine light doesnt come on with keyswitch, the pcm is not getting power. the pcm is probably ok. there is a pcm relay that located in the fuse block. change that relay and the pcm will work fine.
I'm having a problem like this with a 97 geo metro, it will start and run fine for two times, the third time I try to start it, it will just crank but not fire up until I let it set for over night then it fires right back up but repeats the same thing. Did changing your fuel pump finally fix your problem. I'm am wondering if after the fuel pump warms up if that is what quits working until it cools down again, not sure and I get no readings at all when I put a scanning device on it. Did changing your fuel pump cure your starting problem??? Thank you for your response...
Shot in the dark here but ...... That hose busted right over the neutral safety switch. Have you tried to start it in neutral? I can move mine and get to a no spark situation. Move it back to where it was and wont start in park but does in neutral. Give it a shot???
Tami L Only Automatics Have A Neutral Safety Switch. His Is A 5 Speed. The 5 Speeds Have A Switch On The Clutch Pedal That Prevents Starting The Engine Without Having The Clutch Pedal Fully Depressed.
What does it do when you spray starter fluid down the carb, anything? Could be a fuel issue. I had a truck that did that, and replaced a lot of the stuff on fuel system, and a guy that had a lot of experience with that truck said the fact it wasn't starting was actually an oil problem. Oil pressure sending unit. My 99 Metro I just got is running like crap and it has oil issues.
From the sounds of it, this man's friend used a multimeter and found that he was getting weak spark due to low voltage coming through the ignition coil. The ignition coil's job is to convert the battery's 12 volts into a much higher voltage current (20,000+) to obtain the voltage needed to start the car. If we don't have enough voltage coming out of the ignition coil, THERE IS NO NEED TO REPLACE ANYTHING ELSE! Stop there and find out what is causing you to get low voltage from the coil.
Im not very informed on this engine, did you check to make sure the filter isnt stopped up so bad, its not allowing fuel through and also, did you check the fuel pressure regulator?
Nick Perkins is right! I am a Mechanic for UPS/Estes. The water/coolant damaged the crank sensor which is just below that hose and above the crank pulley. Change the crank sensor you will get sparks!
It seems to me that the easiest way to change car:) 1.0 and 3 cylinders? In America? :) PS. As I understand the problem is the lack of spark. May have a problem with the immobilizer (if the car has it).
I have a 94 tracker and it has the same problem, the tracker start for 5seconds then it dies it wont start till 24 hours and do the same. It has spark and fuel i wonder what could be the problem?
That is not true Geo cars were very reliable. Geo hasnt been made since 1997 and there are still plenty of them left around..plus this car has 147,000 miles so I would say that was pretty good so check your facts before making a comment
I HAD THE SAME THING TOO. After all the diag, i found the ECM had burned circuits, A total pain in the AZZ to find! They are no longer available from the parts house! have to send them in for repair!??? To the tune of $300.00! SERIOUSLY? Well i fixed my ECM myself. (I have a bit of Electronic experience behind me) Damb! thing runs again!!!!
A thousand dollars spent to find a .99 cent defective part. Thats why they call us mechanics or techs, not Parts Changers. Probably a bad ground. I would check to see if there was 12v across the coil while cranking and go from there.
I would very much love for someone with experience with Metros to tell me what could possibly be wrong with mine. I was about to go to the store earlier, and went to crank Samwise, my 1993 Geo Metro, up, and there was nothing but a click... Flicked the lights on, they fired up just fine. Radio came on, and beeped when I turned the key off, as it always does. Husband tried to jump it off, to see if maybe the battery was just to low to crank the engine, and still nothing... Checked the fuses, and only one as blown. Changed that... Still nothing. He's cranked up just fine every day since I've had him, no problem. I've had no issues, other than the little quirks of owning this little car. My thought is, it's the starter, but I'm no mechanic, and these little cars, as I said, do have their quirks. Any help would be appreciated. :-) And YES, I DO check the fluids and such frequently and have it serviced, as it should be.
Marie Hyrule Starter Pinion Gear Not Properly Engaging On Flywheel. It's Clashing On Flywheel And That's The "Clickety-Click" You're Hearing. I Should Know! I Have This Exact Very Same Problem And Dilemma In MY GEO METRO!!
my 1995 Geo Metro did the same . i watched this video and it runs now, it was a fuel pump fuse....funny it did not look blown. th-cam.com/video/7syxAWw6Q-s/w-d-xo.html
This is kind of a BS video, solely designed to keep people on the video waiting for a solution that never comes, and then monetizing, based on watch time...a waste of time
More than likely when a Geo metro exhibits those symptoms, check the number 6 fuse on the panel under the dash, this is the ignition fuse. it wil be the second fuse up from the bottom on the left hand side of the panel. it is a 20a fuse, the reason this fuse blows a lot of the time is the 02 wire that has worn thin on the loom that runs up and over the timing belt cover, there is a routing clip on the front of the engine just below the valve cover that is held on with a 10mm bolt, this clip is metal and will wear through the loom, shorting out the wires inside. that is usually pops the fuse as they run on the same circuit. hopes this helps! I have had more than a few in the shop, all the same thing, crank, no start and an absence of warning lights on the dash in the on position.
Now as for this vehicle specifically, Geo Metro's have a common issue with the grounds on the intake becoming corroded. I would start there. Many electrical components, including some in the ignition circuit, ground to the back of the intake manifold. There will be a few wires that ground on the bottom passenger side of the intake manifold, right above the starter. Remove the bolts, sand and clean the area where they connect on the intake, sand the bolt and sand the wire's terminal.
thanks
thanks
I had the same issues, changed everything spark related. Brought it to a shop, guy told me it was a clogged injector. We just cleaned it up with carb cleaner and its working fine now. I do however need to buy a need one asap since its just a matter of time before this happens again
Check the FI (fuel injector) fuse under the black fuse boxes on the drivers side...it controls the ECM and you will get no spark and no check engine light either...It is a 15 amp fuse and can blow on a short in the system
I bet this is what happened when his hose blew water everywhere he just said fuel pump to save grace it probably dried out and started working after he took the time to change fuel pump just a guess mind you, love these cars.
This is more than likely the problem
I know its been a while, but my next question would be the connection between the ignition switch and the primary side of the coil or the distributor ground. If your car has a ballast resistor, that could be the issue. I have a ‘93 three cyl. Than runs rough at idle, even after new plugs, wires, rotor, and cap. I’m thinking of cleaning the EGR and searching for a vacuum leak.
The crankshaft position sensor monitors the position of the crank and is used by the computer to control timing. If it's not functioning, you will not create spark. I'm not a mechanic, but just a minor league Metro enthusiast. Therefore, I don't know everything there is to know, but I do know that this is the path of diagnosis we should be following. We DO NOT just replace random parts. You might even cause more problems by doing that.
MAP is the dice size black plastic square/rectangle mounted on right side (from drivers seat) with about 3 wires, and one vacume line. Remove line and check to see if it is clear.
First I would use a multimeter and make sure that we aren't experiencing any kind of a voltage drop between the battery terminal and the wire feeding the ignition coil. My guess is that there is going to be a voltage drop somewhere between the two. Somewhere in this circuit there is going to be a voltage drop and you should use your multimeter to trace it down. It's likely going to end up being a bad ground in this case.
It sound like the fuel pump or the like. You know how to check to for the sound of the fuel pump? Condenser/capacitor under cap needs replaced.
Try voltage drop test on the the ignition coil. And clean your battery post they look really dirty this cause the battery to produce less voltage and might be the problem that your coil is nt getting enough voltage .. U can clean it with backing soda and water
did you ever have someone respond to your video? I have the exact same problem
omarlowboy got the same thing going on with a 93 geo fuel pump was the 1st thing I replaced because it was constantly staying on now it charges when key is turned and cut of when primed and kicks back on when you try and start it. Got gas coming out the exhaust so I know gas is going in I just don’t have any spark I got power going to the timing I’m about to replace the cap and button I hope that works if not going to have to replace the timing but 2nd thing I done was make sure it did not jump timing this thing has turned into a damn head ack and I have a feeling a money pit
After this, try and start. This commonly solves issues with weak or no spark for Geo Metro owners. While you are at it, you wouldn't be doing too bad to disconnect and clean corrosion from just about any ground in the circuit you see including the main ground to the transmission. The only other thing that I could think of right off the top of my head is the crankshaft position sensor. This would only be a concern if we are getting NO spark though, and it sounded like we are getting some.
@epicfailureinc it was the fuel pump i figured it out
omarhomie1986 was a 30a fuse blown before you changed fuel pump?
@@davidgomez3886 i have same problem i used starter fluid an gas in intake no start wouldnt that make it start for a second if that was problem
That is what I was thinking my metro is doing the same. I put some gas in the carb but it didn’t start. How would a fuel pump stop it from getting fire?
One time I replaced the dis cap on my truck and it made and acted the same at way and turned out that the cap was backwards, the striker was the wrong side also check the spark plugs and if the wires are correctly wired. Check starter I hope it starts running soon
I talked to a guy and told him about my problem that it just died and I noticed the fuse had blown, he asked about if we checked some plastic piece on the distributor/rotor when we replaced the ignition coil. He said if it was cracked it could do that. Well my man said he thinks that's what it is now but it's been too flipping cold out to go take it off. I don't know what piece he is talking about but thought I'd let you know.
I'm skeptical about any new sudden problems with the coil/wiring. (But you may check to see if your two wires going to coil have a full 12 volts)...
Just two Ideas: Make sure your Distributor is not 180 degrees off. I think you can put it in two different ways.
And make sure your MAP suction hose is not clogged with condensation/water. If no vacume.. no fuel.
my 99 Metro has low oil, and is missing spark in the 3rd cylinder. I'm here on youtube looking for info on how to change the cap/rotor, I got plugs, wires, oil filter, and oil, just need to replace the rotor too while I'm at it. Another truck I had wouldn't start when I changed the cap/rotor, and I eventually gave up on the truck altogether.
If no spark its timing belt. Even tho it may look alright,A key way could wobble it out of timing.Best bet is pull off the cover and check to be sure then change it of course ,U gone to far to quit.And U don't seem to be quitting hahaBest of luck also make sure water didn't get up in the distributor cap if so just spray some WD-40 in there and let it air out put it back together try fire up ..
Yes, your timing belt is in place, but the threads are shot and the belt is not moving.
Goddamn... With all the parts you changed you should have just went ahead and installed a new engine! lol
I don't care what anyone says, these are good little cars. I wouldn't sell mine for anything! If i had the money i wouldn't be scared to drive mine across country and back!
My 89 geo is doing the same thing. I've replaced all the same parts as you too. Please let me know if you found out what the problem was.
Take out ur dash speed thing and there's blubs in the back replace it and there's a chance u don't even have one installed mine had the same it was missing
I'm betting that when you swapped the distributor, you got it 180* out, which despite what people can tell you, CAN be 180* out on a Metro. Just noticed this movie is 6 years old though...lol.
had same problem with my suzuki swiift. if the check engine light doesnt come on with keyswitch, the pcm is not getting power. the pcm is probably ok. there is a pcm relay that located in the fuse block. change that relay and the pcm will work fine.
I'm having a problem like this with a 97 geo metro, it will start and run fine for two times, the third time I try to start it, it will just crank but not fire up until I let it set for over night then it fires right back up but repeats the same thing. Did changing your fuel pump finally fix your problem. I'm am wondering if after the fuel pump warms up if that is what quits working until it cools down again, not sure and I get no readings at all when I put a scanning device on it. Did changing your fuel pump cure your starting problem??? Thank you for your response...
Shot in the dark here but ...... That hose busted right over the neutral safety switch. Have you tried to start it in neutral? I can move mine and get to a no spark situation. Move it back to where it was and wont start in park but does in neutral. Give it a shot???
Tami L Only Automatics Have A Neutral Safety Switch. His Is A 5 Speed. The 5 Speeds Have A Switch On The Clutch Pedal That Prevents Starting The Engine Without Having The Clutch Pedal Fully Depressed.
You mentioned checking everything except the timing belt. If it stretched, slipped, snapped, or if the tensioner wore out it won't start.
Jeffrey Dean it was a weak fuel pump timing belt and water pump was new
What does it do when you spray starter fluid down the carb, anything? Could be a fuel issue. I had a truck that did that, and replaced a lot of the stuff on fuel system, and a guy that had a lot of experience with that truck said the fact it wasn't starting was actually an oil problem. Oil pressure sending unit. My 99 Metro I just got is running like crap and it has oil issues.
From the sounds of it, this man's friend used a multimeter and found that he was getting weak spark due to low voltage coming through the ignition coil. The ignition coil's job is to convert the battery's 12 volts into a much higher voltage current (20,000+) to obtain the voltage needed to start the car. If we don't have enough voltage coming out of the ignition coil, THERE IS NO NEED TO REPLACE ANYTHING ELSE! Stop there and find out what is causing you to get low voltage from the coil.
i got same problem i changed intake and it worked
It is the 2x2 box 33950 it is driver side of firewall.
Check your injector I just had to work on a geo tracker same problem check the injector
we had one with the same problem took it in and they adjusted the air gap on the cam sensor and it started right up.
Get your multimeter and a manual and start checking your schematics, all the way from the battery to the plugs, noting voltages all the way.
Take distributor cap off, and see if the distributor even turns when you start the car.
Im not very informed on this engine, did you check to make sure the filter isnt stopped up so bad, its not allowing fuel through and also, did you check the fuel pressure regulator?
Nick Perkins is right! I am a Mechanic for UPS/Estes. The water/coolant damaged the crank sensor which is just below that hose and above the crank pulley. Change the crank sensor you will get sparks!
Greg Thomas no crank sensor on a 95
Everything you just said, it is the timeing belt. Guarntee it.
My car is doing the same thing. I have a 2995 Geo Metro. Did you find out what the problem was? Please let me know ASAP...thanks
All Things Natural Hair it was the fuel fuse
positive and negative connections to that battery looks rusty. try replacing the connections to the battery also.
an you please give us advice on what the problem was?
The problem is having someone else check it instead of doing it yourself
It seems to me that the easiest way to change car:) 1.0 and 3 cylinders? In America? :)
PS. As I understand the problem is the lack of spark. May have a problem with the immobilizer (if the car has it).
Fuse under dash needs replaced that's why NO check engine light
I have a 94 tracker and it has the same problem, the tracker start for 5seconds then it dies it wont start till 24 hours and do the same. It has spark and fuel i wonder what could be the problem?
time for a new engine…
That's not oil, that's just sweat from all that horse-power!
What was the solution to this?
Did you get it running yet? I have a '94.
That is not true Geo cars were very reliable. Geo hasnt been made since 1997 and there are still plenty of them left around..plus this car has 147,000 miles so I would say that was pretty good so check your facts before making a comment
Prizm2356 actually Geos were made all the way through 2001
Is it running yet? I have a '94 and it's doing the same thing.
I HAD THE SAME THING TOO. After all the diag, i found the ECM had burned circuits, A total pain in the AZZ to find!
They are no longer available from the parts house! have to send them in for repair!??? To the tune of $300.00! SERIOUSLY? Well i fixed my ECM myself. (I have a bit of Electronic experience behind me) Damb! thing runs again!!!!
what was it... please tell me bc it happened to my car
When u replaced the computer, or ecm
A thousand dollars spent to find a .99 cent defective part. Thats why they call us mechanics or techs, not Parts Changers. Probably a bad ground. I would check to see if there was 12v across the coil while cranking and go from there.
So did anyone get there geo running
where is computer located
With jumping it should start though!
check your relays in box next to the battery
I would very much love for someone with experience with Metros to tell me what could possibly be wrong with mine. I was about to go to the store earlier, and went to crank Samwise, my 1993 Geo Metro, up, and there was nothing but a click... Flicked the lights on, they fired up just fine. Radio came on, and beeped when I turned the key off, as it always does. Husband tried to jump it off, to see if maybe the battery was just to low to crank the engine, and still nothing... Checked the fuses, and only one as blown. Changed that... Still nothing. He's cranked up just fine every day since I've had him, no problem. I've had no issues, other than the little quirks of owning this little car. My thought is, it's the starter, but I'm no mechanic, and these little cars, as I said, do have their quirks. Any help would be appreciated. :-) And YES, I DO check the fluids and such frequently and have it serviced, as it should be.
Sounds like your starters out.
Yeah! That,and the solenoid went out. Thanks for the input, though!
Im fixing up a 95 metro at the moment. I love these little cars.
Marie Hyrule Starter Pinion Gear Not Properly Engaging On Flywheel. It's Clashing On Flywheel And That's The "Clickety-Click" You're Hearing. I Should Know! I Have This Exact Very Same Problem And Dilemma In MY GEO METRO!!
did you get it started ?
1 of the cylinders fell off
its a relay in your car causing the no start problem
Dome light fuse powers the computer on my 94
Check for spark then see if it's getting fuel
maybe crank shaft position sensor
It was fuel pump
shade tree mechanic. I’m surprised you didn’t replace the seatbelts.
Typical... throw all new parts at it before finding the actual problem
change the main fuse
check the timing
check your AM2 fuse
crank sensor
This tuber should have been posted before you replaced all those things. Duhhh!
try putting fuel in!!!!!!!!!!
No dashboard it's dead
It is obviously the timing belt.
3:28
Fule.
my 1995 Geo Metro did the same . i watched this video and it runs now, it was a fuel pump fuse....funny it did not look blown. th-cam.com/video/7syxAWw6Q-s/w-d-xo.html
This is kind of a BS video, solely designed to keep people on the video waiting for a solution that never comes, and then monetizing, based on watch time...a waste of time
did you ever have someone respond to your video? I have the exact same problem
Me Too
check your AM2 fuse