Thank you for posting these, I own a couple of Leicas and I'm trying to learn as much as I can in order to able able to fix issues like this by myself, where a I life there are not technicians that can handle this work, shipping a camera overseas is just way to complicated and it takes forever.
This is a cool channel. I have an old AGFA camera that seems to be seized up. Doubt I'll bother fizing it now though. I'll just leave it on the shelf, looks good there :)
Might be fun to give it a try. Go slow... persistence and patience. If nothing else you will find out what it looks like inside and you can always put it back on the shelf with a little more intimate knowledge of at the very list a great conversation piece. Oh and thank you for your comments and interest in FOC.
I heard that this technique without a proper CLA leads to increased wear and earlier failure of the shutter completely. Does anyone know if this is true? My knowledge of camera repair is very limited.
If you are shooting only shooting a few rolls a month and the adjustment only required a mild increase in tension the camera will be fine... barring in other issues.
Hi all, I would like to share an issue I had with my M6 non TTL. It is a strange issue on the lightmeter. I found that the lightmeter is giving wrong exposure only when shutter speed is at 1/125 s postion. And I slightly turned the dial towards to the 1/60 s direction, the exposure was then corrected. I am wondering if anyone encounter the same issue before? and how did you fix this problem? Thank you
Hi, if my old film camera can be power up , but only the shutter keep moving, I can't even switch on the camera, do you think it could be repair? TAT ( Ricoh XR- X Date 2000, that's the camera left from my grandpa after he passed away, I really want to fix it )
Not clear on what is not working. But if the camera is not turning on check the removal battery grip. If there is any signs of hidden corrosion, submerge in clear vinegar for 15 minutes than flush with water followed by alcohol. If corrosion as attacked the plating of the contacts they will need to be burnished also.
Hi, Any chance Fix old cameras could make a video on Yashica FX 3? every forum ive seen simply recommends buying a new one since they are cheap, so its hard to find disassembly and problem diagnosis content. Thanks!
Thank you for the suggestion. Sure they are cheap to buy, but that is not always the point. Some times it is good to just to "keep'em going" and be in control of your stuff.
@@FixOldCameras Yup totally agree! I'de love to clean/service and repair mine, It's just tough to find any guides on servicing/disassembling one :) thanks!
I have a slightly off topic question regarding my x-570! I read that using any modern flash will be no problem, at least no harm can be done to my camera. Sometimes the pins wont match exactly, but since only the middle one has to connect, it should work fine. So I wanted to try it out since I still have flashes from my digital camera around here. However when I use my modern flash on the x-570, It will fire properly, but I cannot advance the film lever after the shot. Unless I remove the flash out of the hot shoe I cannot advance it. It blocks like midway the same way it does when you try to advance it twice in a row It works flawless if I use a wireless reciver in the hot shoe and fire the flash out of my hand instead. Any Idea what causes this or if there is a possible fix? Thanks a lot in advance. I dont know where else to ask :) Also thank you for giving out all this knowledge on this challenge and sorry for hitting you with a question so unrelated to the video!
It sounds like the shutter's second curtain does not release after the first curtain's travel fires the flash via the flash contacts. Probably the only way to use the flash in question is by blocking all but the center contact post and the ground contact on the shoe and foot. Or... perhaps the flash has a PC cord connection. You might also be concerned on the odd reaction of the camera's shutter from the connectivity of what appears to be an incompatible flash. It is odd and possibly a previously unknown issue.
@@FixOldCameras What you are describing above is indeed what is happening. I checked again and U were on point. I quickly grabbed some tape and tried covering the contact posts... And it works right off the bat!!
Hello, I have a Canon AE-1 and the negative battery contact is stuck in a down position, I really need help getting it to pop up and I don't know how to get it to go up. Thanks
"the handle selector wheel" does that refer to the advance lever on the right side of the camera or the rewind knob on the left side of the camera or the shutter speed dial or the ASA knob? If it is the rewind knob than perhaps their is film in the camera that has reached its end and the rewind release knob on the front right upper side of the camera needs to be released so that you are then able to turn the rewind knob to rewind the film in the direction of the arrow on the rewind knob lever.
As a technician that repairs Leicas for a living this is a TERRIBLE adjustment to make it your shutter is slow! First off the shutter is slow due to lack of lubrication, it’s time for a CLA. Second Travel times MUST be matched at 13.5 milliseconds using a shutter tester for optimal accuracy. Adjusting just one will cause one curtain to be faster than the other and cause uneven exposure or an overlap causing the camera to jam. You don’t just “count the clicks” to match them either, these springs are over 60 years old they aren’t specific to the clicks. These cameras are precision machines should be treated as such. You don’t have a subaru mechanic work on you Porsche. For a lot of people they get their first Leica and are very excited so they don’t want to wait for a CLA, be patient, save up the money, and get your camera serviced by a professional. Trust me it will save you plenty of money and heartache in the future. I’ve had too many customer screw up their cameras because they watched this video and though they could fix it themselves.
Thank you for your fun comments and for taking the time from making a living cleaning, lubing and adjusting Leica cameras to show interest in the Fix Old Cameras channel and sharing your opinion as to the validity and usefulness of the information presented. However, the adjustment procedures outlined in this and other FOC videos are substantiated and outlined on the pages of model specific NATCAM manuals and a general Leica Shutter manual. FOC has never made any claim to be a factory expert or factory trained for any brand of camera. NatCam training and factory seminars not with standing as they frankly are irrelevant to the reasons FOC was founded. Read the channel “about” statement for clarification. “Fix Old Cameras produces step by step up close videos of simple, common repairs and basic maintenance on classic and vintage cameras. Work a-rounds and short cuts that might go outside of typical camera repair procedures are also demonstrated. These techniques are not always considered a permanent fix, but allow for someone with limited tools and experience the possibility of getting their camera functioning again.” A note on CLA . Although CLA is an initialism that gets pitched about - in and of itself it is often a waste of time and money as preventive maintenance. As opposed to actually addressing and repairing an issue. Repairing the problem might include stripping gummy old lubricate and applying modern lubricant appropriate for the application. It might entail adjusting a fatigued spring to give it the needed tension to regain functionality. Therefore in an isolated position a CLA repair is performed as needed and not a CLA of the entire camera as is often claimed. Another separate note on wrenching a cars. Much satisfaction and innovation is derived from wrenching on your classic show car or the daily driver regardless of any official training... a wrench is a wrench. There is no doubt the modern cars require far less maintenance but there are still repairs that can be done without any factory training. But it is usually wrenching the classics that gives the most satisfaction and the feeling of mastery of your “stuff”. This too applies to the repair of cameras passed down from grandparents, parents, family members and friends as well as to newly acquired cameras. It is an element of this discovery and autonomy, regardless of economics, or perceived prestige of a particular camera brand, to maintain, repair and use these elegantly engineered cameras of old not just for their beauty and eccentricities but for their practicality as a picture taking tool.
Fix Old Cameras a fatigued spring can also break if tension is applied prior to lubrication as it can act as a glue holding it in place. It’s very irresponsible to just tighten the spring when your shutter won’t travel the full focal plane, the shutter is slow because the spring is gummed up and the main roller bearings are dry. Adding excess tension rather than properly addressing the issue leads to long term wear. On top of all that a shutter tester is needed to properly balance the travel times to ensure an accurate exposure, if you over tighten the trailing curtain you risky jamming the shutter or having it “cap” (no image). If you have access to the said manuals you should know that there are fine tolerances that must be met for the camera to operate at its full potential. I understand the satisfaction of fixing something but I make sure I know what I’m doing before I pull it apart as it can bring upon unintended consequences. And in my experience if the the lubrication is the shutter is need of lubrication I find that the rest of the systems also need to be addressed. There’s no point in having an accurate shutter if your slow speed escapement is dry or your wind stack is out of time. I’m not trying to be rude or condescending but I can’t stand by and watch people destroy their beloved leicas, I’ve had several customers come to me with broken shutter springs after watching your video.
![เจ็บที่ยังฮัก - ม่อน วรวิทย์ [ Official Mv ] จอนนี่มิวสิค](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KALIGSRSjFs/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for posting these, I own a couple of Leicas and I'm trying to learn as much as I can in order to able able to fix issues like this by myself, where a I life there are not technicians that can handle this work, shipping a camera overseas is just way to complicated and it takes forever.
Go slow... persistence and patience. And thank you for your comments and interest in FOC.
👌🏻 don’t have the camera, but appreciate your skill and the willingness to share 🙏🏻 ✌🏻
Thank you.
glad that I found this channel, but sad coz I couldn't find the detailed repair for olympus 35 sp. I hope you'll make one. :)
Thank you for the suggestion.
you are welcome. Thank you for considering my suggestion. A lot of 35 sp would be happy.
is there any way to do this to the Leica/Minolta CL? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Can't find anything in the repair manual or online.
This is a cool channel. I have an old AGFA camera that seems to be seized up. Doubt I'll bother fizing it now though. I'll just leave it on the shelf, looks good there :)
Might be fun to give it a try. Go slow... persistence and patience. If nothing else you will find out what it looks like inside and you can always put it back on the shelf with a little more intimate knowledge of at the very list a great conversation piece. Oh and thank you for your comments and interest in FOC.
Trying to fix this problem with my M4. How do you know when the tension is correct and is it both screws you turn?
A very good and important question!
I guess it is kind of off topic but does anyone know of a good site to watch new tv shows online ?
@Angelo Griffin i use Flixzone. You can find it by googling =)
@Dennis Gunnar yup, been using Flixzone for months myself =)
@Dennis Gunnar thank you, I went there and it seems to work =) I appreciate it!
How do you know, when the tension is ok? Shutter speed tester?
UncontrolleDperson good question
I heard that this technique without a proper CLA leads to increased wear and earlier failure of the shutter completely. Does anyone know if this is true? My knowledge of camera repair is very limited.
If you are shooting only shooting a few rolls a month and the adjustment only required a mild increase in tension the camera will be fine... barring in other issues.
Fix Old Cameras thanks for the reply. I probably only shoot one roll a month, haha.
Hello. When i have problem with fast shuter speed it can solve the problem? Becouse on 1000/s 500/ second curtin is to fast.
Hi all, I would like to share an issue I had with my M6 non TTL. It is a strange issue on the lightmeter. I found that the lightmeter is giving wrong exposure only when shutter speed is at 1/125 s postion. And I slightly turned the dial towards to the 1/60 s direction, the exposure was then corrected. I am wondering if anyone encounter the same issue before? and how did you fix this problem? Thank you
Hi, if my old film camera can be power up , but only the shutter keep moving, I can't even switch on the camera, do you think it could be repair? TAT ( Ricoh XR- X Date 2000, that's the camera left from my grandpa after he passed away, I really want to fix it )
Not clear on what is not working. But if the camera is not turning on check the removal battery grip. If there is any signs of hidden corrosion, submerge in clear vinegar for 15 minutes than flush with water followed by alcohol. If corrosion as attacked the plating of the contacts they will need to be burnished also.
Hi, Any chance Fix old cameras could make a video on Yashica FX 3? every forum ive seen simply recommends buying a new one since they are cheap, so its hard to find disassembly and problem diagnosis content. Thanks!
Thank you for the suggestion. Sure they are cheap to buy, but that is not always the point. Some times it is good to just to "keep'em going" and be in control of your stuff.
@@FixOldCameras Yup totally agree! I'de love to clean/service and repair mine, It's just tough to find any guides on servicing/disassembling one :) thanks!
I have a slightly off topic question regarding my x-570!
I read that using any modern flash will be no problem, at least no harm can be done to my camera.
Sometimes the pins wont match exactly, but since only the middle one has to connect, it should work fine. So I wanted to try it out since I still have flashes from my digital camera around here.
However when I use my modern flash on the x-570, It will fire properly, but I cannot advance the film lever after the shot. Unless I remove the flash out of the hot shoe I cannot advance it. It blocks like midway the same way it does when you try to advance it twice in a row
It works flawless if I use a wireless reciver in the hot shoe and fire the flash out of my hand instead. Any Idea what causes this or if there is a possible fix? Thanks a lot in advance. I dont know where else to ask :)
Also thank you for giving out all this knowledge on this challenge and sorry for hitting you with a question so unrelated to the video!
It sounds like the shutter's second curtain does not release after the first curtain's travel fires the flash via the flash contacts. Probably the only way to use the flash in question is by blocking all but the center contact post and the ground contact on the shoe and foot. Or... perhaps the flash has a PC cord connection. You might also be concerned on the odd reaction of the camera's shutter from the connectivity of what appears to be an incompatible flash. It is odd and possibly a previously unknown issue.
@@FixOldCameras What you are describing above is indeed what is happening. I checked again and U were on point.
I quickly grabbed some tape and tried covering the contact posts... And it works right off the bat!!
Hello, I have a Canon AE-1 and the negative battery contact is stuck in a down position, I really need help getting it to pop up and I don't know how to get it to go up. Thanks
Seep some isoprophyl alcohol around the contact and see if it won't loosen and pop up.
Hello, I have a problem with the handle selector wheel of an olympus om1, I unlock it to turn it but it does not move, can you help me?
"the handle selector wheel" does that refer to the advance lever on the right side of the camera or the rewind knob on the left side of the camera or the shutter speed dial or the ASA knob? If it is the rewind knob than perhaps their is film in the camera that has reached its end and the rewind release knob on the front right upper side of the camera needs to be released so that you are then able to turn the rewind knob to rewind the film in the direction of the arrow on the rewind knob lever.
how can i repair over tension?
Is there an online archive of those magazines I can use?
Do not know, it is possible. Maybe your public library and the Interlibrary Loan service.
@@FixOldCameras thanks for your answer. Once I'm back in LA, I'll check that out.
eBay?
Thanks. One more time.
You are welcome and thank you for your continued interest in FOC.
As a technician that repairs Leicas for a living this is a TERRIBLE adjustment to make it your shutter is slow! First off the shutter is slow due to lack of lubrication, it’s time for a CLA. Second Travel times MUST be matched at 13.5 milliseconds using a shutter tester for optimal accuracy. Adjusting just one will cause one curtain to be faster than the other and cause uneven exposure or an overlap causing the camera to jam. You don’t just “count the clicks” to match them either, these springs are over 60 years old they aren’t specific to the clicks. These cameras are precision machines should be treated as such. You don’t have a subaru mechanic work on you Porsche. For a lot of people they get their first Leica and are very excited so they don’t want to wait for a CLA, be patient, save up the money, and get your camera serviced by a professional. Trust me it will save you plenty of money and heartache in the future. I’ve had too many customer screw up their cameras because they watched this video and though they could fix it themselves.
Thank you for your fun comments and for taking the time from making a living cleaning, lubing and adjusting Leica cameras to show interest in the Fix Old Cameras channel and sharing your opinion as to the validity and usefulness of the information presented. However, the adjustment procedures outlined in this and other FOC videos are substantiated and outlined on the pages of model specific NATCAM manuals and a general Leica Shutter manual. FOC has never made any claim to be a factory expert or factory trained for any brand of camera. NatCam training and factory seminars not with standing as they frankly are irrelevant to the reasons FOC was founded. Read the channel “about” statement for clarification.
“Fix Old Cameras produces step by step up close videos of simple, common repairs and basic maintenance on classic and vintage cameras. Work a-rounds and short cuts that might go outside of typical camera repair procedures are also demonstrated. These techniques are not always considered a permanent fix, but allow for someone with limited tools and experience the possibility of getting their camera functioning again.”
A note on CLA . Although CLA is an initialism that gets pitched about - in and of itself it is often a waste of time and money as preventive maintenance. As opposed to actually addressing and repairing an issue. Repairing the problem might include stripping gummy old lubricate and applying modern lubricant appropriate for the application. It might entail adjusting a fatigued spring to give it the needed tension to regain functionality. Therefore in an isolated position a CLA repair is performed as needed and not a CLA of the entire camera as is often claimed.
Another separate note on wrenching a cars. Much satisfaction and innovation is derived from wrenching on your classic show car or the daily driver regardless of any official training... a wrench is a wrench. There is no doubt the modern cars require far less maintenance but there are still repairs that can be done without any factory training. But it is usually wrenching the classics that gives the most satisfaction and the feeling of mastery of your “stuff”. This too applies to the repair of cameras passed down from grandparents, parents, family members and friends as well as to newly acquired cameras. It is an element of this discovery and autonomy, regardless of economics, or perceived prestige of a particular camera brand, to maintain, repair and use these elegantly engineered cameras of old not just for their beauty and eccentricities but for their practicality as a picture taking tool.
Where would you send a Leica to for a cla or repair in 2020 ?
Nicholas Fanzo I offer Leica services, shoot me a direct message for the details!
Jadon Broberg-Rosado will do, don’t need a cla yet, but I have an m3 and m6
Fix Old Cameras a fatigued spring can also break if tension is applied prior to lubrication as it can act as a glue holding it in place. It’s very irresponsible to just tighten the spring when your shutter won’t travel the full focal plane, the shutter is slow because the spring is gummed up and the main roller bearings are dry. Adding excess tension rather than properly addressing the issue leads to long term wear. On top of all that a shutter tester is needed to properly balance the travel times to ensure an accurate exposure, if you over tighten the trailing curtain you risky jamming the shutter or having it “cap” (no image). If you have access to the said manuals you should know that there are fine tolerances that must be met for the camera to operate at its full potential. I understand the satisfaction of fixing something but I make sure I know what I’m doing before I pull it apart as it can bring upon unintended consequences. And in my experience if the the lubrication is the shutter is need of lubrication I find that the rest of the systems also need to be addressed. There’s no point in having an accurate shutter if your slow speed escapement is dry or your wind stack is out of time. I’m not trying to be rude or condescending but I can’t stand by and watch people destroy their beloved leicas, I’ve had several customers come to me with broken shutter springs after watching your video.