The exclamation mark in your password: this is not an issue with fysetcs implementation but a 'linux-ism'. In a linux commandline, something prefixed with an ! is treated special, but so are many other 'special' characters like the & and backslash. You get around this by using single quotes around what contains those special characters. So, if your password is $1!A&b, then you type '$1!A&b'. Don't use double quotes ("), because that instructs the shell to try and interpret those special characters anyway.
Thank you for the explanation. This is the first time ever I have experienced this. I did reach out in their Discord and this was not something that was mentioned. That is great to know that it is easy to work around and I will pin this to hopefully inform others :)
@@WereCatf Correct 👍 But passwords often use (or should use) multiple 'special' characters. And this circumvents someone who isn't that comfortable with linux having to guess which are characters they have to escape and which are OK.
@@ModBotArmy if you're giving feedback to fysetc, it might be worth to make that shell script an interactive prompt which would likely get rid of any requirements to escape etc.
Im so happy that modbot reviews and puts effort into things when no one else will. Its quite the struggle to figure these things out for a beginner so its such a help for many to know these things
Thank you. With the issues I ran into this was a long process. From the reprinting/rebuilding and the config side it was much more than I had anticipated. I really hope it does help others though.
Another benefit of switching skirts to 0.2 is the filament runout sensor embedded in one of the feet. It requires some extra parts, but the placement is brilliant!
The new Catalyst board is pretty cool (only included in their new Voron 0.2 kits) and seems to fix a lot of problems, especially this weird mess of wires to connect the head. Still some problems with documentation though, but the discord server is very active. I got one of their kits and I'm pretty happy with it.
Good to see more info about this board. Inhad ordered an fysetc 0.2 kit, which should come with the cheeta board and separate umbilical breakout board. However, they upgraded my order to the 0.2R1 kit eith the Catalyst. The Cheeta has soldered drivers and a faster MCU. Plugable drivers is fine, not complaining about the slower MCU for plugable drivers. But I’m super sensible about trusted OS sources and running this system with a preinstalled OS is a problem. I also run my printers with Octoprint+Klipper, which means I have to deinstall whatever is already installed. Documentation is another problem, however there is a schematic and it looks like removing the CM68 and hooking the MCU to a Raspberry might be possible. Using another printer board is not easy, since I don’t have the umbilical breakout. I havn’t powered up the board yet, still building the printer. From the hardware standpoint this is a nice looking board and I really hope that there will be OS images from a trusted source without undefined preinstallations.
Umbilical seems silly when CAN is built in. To expensive to replace my BTT SKR pico and Raspberry pi zero W 2 . Under $75 would be more enticing for a full CAN setup
It seems like you haven't mentioned the significant performance boost of the CM68 compute module compared to the H616 on the CB1 or the H5 that comes with the Mellow Fly Gemini V3. Additionally, it's worth noting that the CM68, which is included with the catalyst, has 32GB of Integrated EMMC and 2GB of LPDDR4. In contrast, the CB1 only has 1GB of DDR3L and no EMMC, while the Mellow Fly Gemini V3 only has 1GB of RAM.
Oh hey, I just finished my first v0 this morning. I put a SKR Pico in it but might upgrade to a Manta E3EZ and CB1 for the extra features. Nice to see a new board for it though
Hey Daniel. I'd really appreciate a video covering the Dragon Burner. I can't seem to find any and I love the details you cover. Just an idea. Looking at putting it on a trident soon.
Nice video! I agree it should have all the connections that are going to the toolheadboard also on the mainboard but shipping it with a Can toolheadboard I think is too crazy. On a V2 it makes sense, but for crossing a 20cm gap (not even in a cable chain) and with the possibility of just turning the printer around and accessing the electronics it is simply not worth the hassle. Can has it's downsides, it is difficult to set up.
It’s possible that it wasn’t retaining because the system was set to sync the drive at 30 minute intervals. I had that problem with the Fly Mellow V3 board’s web config. I ended up overwriting/hardcoding something to make it work reliably
Sort of torn on this one. Builders tend to be more technically savy; however, with so many people building their first printer making the process seamless is vital. The board looks super clean and tidy. I agree the package choices are... Unusual.
Price comparison wise, it looks like this board has a WAY more capable compute module (Klipper host), compared to rather minimal Manta with CB1 and especially the FLY-Gemini with it's ancient H5, with only 1GB RAM and no eMMC included (much slower to boot off of SD card). With that all taken into account, I think the price is very competitive. (The Manta could in theory be run on a CM4 compute module but those cost quite a lot more than the CM1's and good luck with getting all the software running on the different CPU etc.)
@@twanheijkoop6753 Oh, I'm sure. Perhaps this new board is overkill, in that sense. Still seems worth the extra money to me - if only for the eMMC. Makes such a difference. Night and day.
Also in general, all of these Chinese "Raspberry Pi nots", whilst currently more readily available and comparatively cheap, are almost always a nightmare to get running with many things that "just work" on a Raspberry Pi. It's common to get everything but one critical thing working and having to just give up in the end. Documentation (English esp.) is sparse at best, drivers for some things just don't exist at all and before any of that gets sorted out, the board will get abandoned for the next bleeding edge and completely incompatible version. It was here that you experienced most of your setup heartache, which was about par for the course for these SoCs - all that from someone with years of Linux experience. It boggled my mind that relative n00bs get anything working at all. Thank goodness for those forums! Otherwise, it's all awesome! :P
My fear with them is how they’ll be in a couple years. Rpi has a real advantage, here, because their is is not taped together at the last minute, and they also maintain compatibility as new stuff comes out.
I have the V0.2 non R1 kit. Frankly, i think my setup with the Cheetah 3.0 + Pi3B+ is superior to this, and the wiring at the back is as clean as what I'm seeing here, even with two separate boards + the umbilical.
If you buy this one, you will engage in an in-depth study of Linux. Moreover, the kernel has no modules, the drivers are compiled into the kernel, which is why most of the hardware does not work (for example, my camera). Additionally, there are no ready-made images of the installed system. If you somehow damage the installed linux you have two options - throw the mainboard into the trash or get a PhD in making linux images on rk3568.
hey modbot can you please lead me in he right direction to getting the latest voron 0.2 kit.. i found it on ali express but im worried about getting the wrong one. i really just want the latest on because i heard its better than the 0.1
When in ssh and you need to put in character that has a special symbol you can escape it via a backslash or but the entire parameter in quotes. You shouldn't need to create a new wifi network for this.
So you like them embedded? It’s a mixed bag. Some only like replaceable in case one needs to be replaced you don’t have to swap the whole board. I’m indifferent. I have only ever had one fail and it was self inflicted.
I'd rather have pluggable step sticks, that way if you damage one or want to upgrade you can just replace the very specific thing that needs changing. Less ewaste throwing an entire controller board away because you want 5160s or something. I do however think that moving from stepstick to the 'EZ' connectors that Mellow and BTT are doing makes a lot of sense. I just wish they'd standardise on a consistent pinout.
@@ModBotArmy well I don’t necessarily “like” having them embedded just that I’ve had multiple issues with pluggable ones in the past (pinout incompatibilities, missing features due to lack of spi / uart, poor cooling, etc.) So yeah maybe just a better standard for pluggable drivers would solve most of those issues…
I guess it depends on your plans. I also would be happy with at least one more but ADXL I would only use when swapping toolhead parts or big mechanical changes mostly.
@@ModBotArmy Also from the price point this board does not make any sense. Current price on Aliexpress is €113, BTT Manta 4p + CB1 costs €57 - this is epic fail
I'm assuming this is more of a part made to be bundled w/ their Voron 0.2 kits, and sold on the side for additional income at a higher value. Definitely not worth $100 😬
Nice informative video, but this kit is honestly a waste of time and way overpriced, I run a single USB cable to my tool-heads on all my machines, which is the same as running CAN, its also only 4 wires as well, and for the price of this Kit, I can buy almost all of the parts to build a Voron 0.2, the kit would need to be sub $75 and be using, CAN or USB connection to the tool head, I think Fystec have wasted time and money on this, one can buy a MKS-SKIPR with 3.5" Screen and a THR-36 tool board for far less, and these boards are far more capable, or you can also pickup a Kingroon Cheater board (also made by MKS) and use a Mellow or BTT USB/CAN tool board, this would bring the cost right down, the Cheater board has everything you need for a Voron 0.2 and its cheap. The Cheater board and the BTT EBB will set you back around $100 USD retail, so half the price.
I really dislike the trend of open source projects putting documentation on Discord. It's an unnecessary hurdle, and a closed ecosystem. You require users to have an account, and if something ever happens to the server, all the info is destroyed and unrecoverable. Discord is not for documentation!
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 85 | คู่เอก "ยอดเหล็กเพชร vs ผึ้งหลวง"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Qq_19bnnxEo/mqdefault.jpg)
The exclamation mark in your password: this is not an issue with fysetcs implementation but a 'linux-ism'. In a linux commandline, something prefixed with an ! is treated special, but so are many other 'special' characters like the & and backslash. You get around this by using single quotes around what contains those special characters. So, if your password is $1!A&b, then you type '$1!A&b'. Don't use double quotes ("), because that instructs the shell to try and interpret those special characters anyway.
Thank you for the explanation. This is the first time ever I have experienced this. I did reach out in their Discord and this was not something that was mentioned. That is great to know that it is easy to work around and I will pin this to hopefully inform others :)
I would've just used a backslash, myself, ie. \!password -- backslash is used to escape individual special characters.
@@WereCatf Correct 👍 But passwords often use (or should use) multiple 'special' characters. And this circumvents someone who isn't that comfortable with linux having to guess which are characters they have to escape and which are OK.
Correct since it treats it like a string instead of an argument
@@ModBotArmy if you're giving feedback to fysetc, it might be worth to make that shell script an interactive prompt which would likely get rid of any requirements to escape etc.
Im so happy that modbot reviews and puts effort into things when no one else will. Its quite the struggle to figure these things out for a beginner so its such a help for many to know these things
Thank you. With the issues I ran into this was a long process. From the reprinting/rebuilding and the config side it was much more than I had anticipated. I really hope it does help others though.
Another benefit of switching skirts to 0.2 is the filament runout sensor embedded in one of the feet.
It requires some extra parts, but the placement is brilliant!
The new Catalyst board is pretty cool (only included in their new Voron 0.2 kits) and seems to fix a lot of problems, especially this weird mess of wires to connect the head. Still some problems with documentation though, but the discord server is very active.
I got one of their kits and I'm pretty happy with it.
Good to see more info about this board.
Inhad ordered an fysetc 0.2 kit, which should come with the cheeta board and separate umbilical breakout board.
However, they upgraded my order to the 0.2R1 kit eith the Catalyst.
The Cheeta has soldered drivers and a faster MCU.
Plugable drivers is fine, not complaining about the slower MCU for plugable drivers.
But I’m super sensible about trusted OS sources and running this system with a preinstalled OS is a problem.
I also run my printers with Octoprint+Klipper, which means I have to deinstall whatever is already installed.
Documentation is another problem, however there is a schematic and it looks like removing the CM68 and hooking the MCU to a Raspberry might be possible.
Using another printer board is not easy, since I don’t have the umbilical breakout.
I havn’t powered up the board yet, still building the printer.
From the hardware standpoint this is a nice looking board and I really hope that there will be OS images from a trusted source without undefined preinstallations.
Great concept but falls short of being a great choice for the price. Maybe price would be justified if it included CAN.
It’s an awesome board! Just finished my Fysetc 0.2 R1 Pro build a couple days ago
Umbilical seems silly when CAN is built in. To expensive to replace my BTT SKR pico and Raspberry pi zero W 2 . Under $75 would be more enticing for a full CAN setup
It seems like you haven't mentioned the significant performance boost of the CM68 compute module compared to the H616 on the CB1 or the H5 that comes with the Mellow Fly Gemini V3. Additionally, it's worth noting that the CM68, which is included with the catalyst, has 32GB of Integrated EMMC and 2GB of LPDDR4. In contrast, the CB1 only has 1GB of DDR3L and no EMMC, while the Mellow Fly Gemini V3 only has 1GB of RAM.
Yes, but you cant flash your own linux image to the board. I dont trust the fysetc linux Image :/
@@Henkler3D If that's a concern to you and you know what you're doing, you can make your image from scratch, wouldn't be that difficult.
Oh hey, I just finished my first v0 this morning. I put a SKR Pico in it but might upgrade to a Manta E3EZ and CB1 for the extra features. Nice to see a new board for it though
Hey Daniel.
I'd really appreciate a video covering the Dragon Burner. I can't seem to find any and I love the details you cover.
Just an idea. Looking at putting it on a trident soon.
It’s been on my list! Hopefully very soon 😊
@ModBotArmy ah, sweet! Can't wait dude. Have a good day!
I really appreciate that they didn't go with canbus and went with a dumb toolboard
Thanks for the mention!!
Lol! That “Tom” must be one heck of a guy.😂😂. Great video!!
Nice video! I agree it should have all the connections that are going to the toolheadboard also on the mainboard but shipping it with a Can toolheadboard I think is too crazy. On a V2 it makes sense, but for crossing a 20cm gap (not even in a cable chain) and with the possibility of just turning the printer around and accessing the electronics it is simply not worth the hassle. Can has it's downsides, it is difficult to set up.
I love the typo on the toolhead for the "ASXL" chip.
It’s possible that it wasn’t retaining because the system was set to sync the drive at 30 minute intervals. I had that problem with the Fly Mellow V3 board’s web config. I ended up overwriting/hardcoding something to make it work reliably
Sort of torn on this one. Builders tend to be more technically savy; however, with so many people building their first printer making the process seamless is vital. The board looks super clean and tidy. I agree the package choices are... Unusual.
Price comparison wise, it looks like this board has a WAY more capable compute module (Klipper host), compared to rather minimal Manta with CB1 and especially the FLY-Gemini with it's ancient H5, with only 1GB RAM and no eMMC included (much slower to boot off of SD card). With that all taken into account, I think the price is very competitive. (The Manta could in theory be run on a CM4 compute module but those cost quite a lot more than the CM1's and good luck with getting all the software running on the different CPU etc.)
Didn't have any performance issues yet with the cb1 even with 2 webcams setup. But having more compute available never hurts.
@@twanheijkoop6753 Oh, I'm sure. Perhaps this new board is overkill, in that sense. Still seems worth the extra money to me - if only for the eMMC. Makes such a difference. Night and day.
Also in general, all of these Chinese "Raspberry Pi nots", whilst currently more readily available and comparatively cheap, are almost always a nightmare to get running with many things that "just work" on a Raspberry Pi. It's common to get everything but one critical thing working and having to just give up in the end. Documentation (English esp.) is sparse at best, drivers for some things just don't exist at all and before any of that gets sorted out, the board will get abandoned for the next bleeding edge and completely incompatible version. It was here that you experienced most of your setup heartache, which was about par for the course for these SoCs - all that from someone with years of Linux experience. It boggled my mind that relative n00bs get anything working at all. Thank goodness for those forums! Otherwise, it's all awesome! :P
My fear with them is how they’ll be in a couple years. Rpi has a real advantage, here, because their is is not taped together at the last minute, and they also maintain compatibility as new stuff comes out.
I have the V0.2 non R1 kit.
Frankly, i think my setup with the Cheetah 3.0 + Pi3B+ is superior to this, and the wiring at the back is as clean as what I'm seeing here, even with two separate boards + the umbilical.
If you buy this one, you will engage in an in-depth study of Linux. Moreover, the kernel has no modules, the drivers are compiled into the kernel, which is why most of the hardware does not work (for example, my camera). Additionally, there are no ready-made images of the installed system. If you somehow damage the installed linux you have two options - throw the mainboard into the trash or get a PhD in making linux images on rk3568.
drive.google.com/file/d/13Tcclv2N4jrMm01r_HPVqZ3v6CVUCk1H/view?usp=drive_link
hey modbot can you please lead me in he right direction to getting the latest voron 0.2 kit.. i found it on ali express but im worried about getting the wrong one. i really just want the latest on because i heard its better than the 0.1
When in ssh and you need to put in character that has a special symbol you can escape it via a backslash or but the entire parameter in quotes. You shouldn't need to create a new wifi network for this.
0:32 There's a typo on the box. "OLED Dispaly"
This sounds amazing. The MCU reminds me of BTT CB1 for Manta or Octopus. I love it, will probably get it while building myself a Voron 0
8:52 why would one put ifconfig behind sudo?
Do some og 360 videos again, rgh3 came out
Can you tell me the brand of the pegboard style boards you have hanging on the wall..
Thanks
It is skadis! Ikea sells it 😊
Can’t say I’m a fan of those recent new boards with the plug in step drivers.
Feels like we had finally gotten away from them …
So you like them embedded? It’s a mixed bag. Some only like replaceable in case one needs to be replaced you don’t have to swap the whole board. I’m indifferent. I have only ever had one fail and it was self inflicted.
I'd rather have pluggable step sticks, that way if you damage one or want to upgrade you can just replace the very specific thing that needs changing. Less ewaste throwing an entire controller board away because you want 5160s or something.
I do however think that moving from stepstick to the 'EZ' connectors that Mellow and BTT are doing makes a lot of sense. I just wish they'd standardise on a consistent pinout.
@@ModBotArmy well I don’t necessarily “like” having them embedded just that I’ve had multiple issues with pluggable ones in the past (pinout incompatibilities, missing features due to lack of spi / uart, poor cooling, etc.)
So yeah maybe just a better standard for pluggable drivers would solve most of those issues…
I wish the community would move away from CAN and just make boards that took usb data lines and 24v
Not enough USB ports. Wifi / Klipper Expander / HDMI display / portable ADXL - fail
I guess it depends on your plans. I also would be happy with at least one more but ADXL I would only use when swapping toolhead parts or big mechanical changes mostly.
@@ModBotArmy Also from the price point this board does not make any sense. Current price on Aliexpress is €113, BTT Manta 4p + CB1 costs €57 - this is epic fail
@@alexey_sychev with the screen, toolhead board, and wire harness I am willing to add $20 in value but it still is overpriced IMO.
Next time do “!password” the quotations make a big difference
I say this because in Linux sometimes it gets funky
I'm assuming this is more of a part made to be bundled w/ their Voron 0.2 kits, and sold on the side for additional income at a higher value. Definitely not worth $100 😬
Yeah I feel the same way. Since they already made the board for their kit why not offer it as a standalone for those that may want it.
awe, chinese product, hell of a good idea whatever it may be, may work super well also. just its up to you to document and figure out how to.
Nice informative video, but this kit is honestly a waste of time and way overpriced, I run a single USB cable to my tool-heads on all my machines, which is the same as running CAN, its also only 4 wires as well, and for the price of this Kit, I can buy almost all of the parts to build a Voron 0.2, the kit would need to be sub $75 and be using, CAN or USB connection to the tool head, I think Fystec have wasted time and money on this, one can buy a MKS-SKIPR with 3.5" Screen and a THR-36 tool board for far less, and these boards are far more capable, or you can also pickup a Kingroon Cheater board (also made by MKS) and use a Mellow or BTT USB/CAN tool board, this would bring the cost right down, the Cheater board has everything you need for a Voron 0.2 and its cheap. The Cheater board and the BTT EBB will set you back around $100 USD retail, so half the price.
I really dislike the trend of open source projects putting documentation on Discord. It's an unnecessary hurdle, and a closed ecosystem. You require users to have an account, and if something ever happens to the server, all the info is destroyed and unrecoverable. Discord is not for documentation!
Fully agreed
So basically dont buy this thing, seems like its still in beta
Fysetc really needs to change their name. Was it meant to be Fystec? Because Fysetc is fucking unpronounceable.
Hi 👋 you are absolutely right. Fyscet is awful company. There are very few documents for the board on the site.
I did not say they are an awful company.
I love my spider boards.
I just don’t like preinstalled OS from random companies in my network.
first :)