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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ย. 2024
- About to throw in the towel and find another Suzuki Burgman donor. This time I will verify the thing runs. The initial $600 was not a total waste as I got the clean title maddog front end.
Been wanting to combine a Suzuki AN400 Burgman to Maddog or Ruckus frame for awhile. This is a clean title Maddog frame with a 400cc engine and suspension welded on. Gonna be a fun project.
I've worked on motorcycles and 4 wheelers with similar problems and they needed new stators put in and it solved the problems.
This is a DC system so technically it would run fine without a stator, just not for long. I just cant use the pickup signal off this bike on a typical DC CDI. It needs a computer. But I am working to make one. LOL
Good work man, keep grinding on this thing, sometimes you have to deal with a couple stop signs and roadblocks even when you’re on the right path.
I forgot to say, that thing looks really good man. Don't give up we got this.
I just pulled the side case off and the flywheel is weird. it has bumps all the way around it. It is missing 2 bumps which I imagine is signal for TDC. So this must always send signal every 10 degrees and when the signal stops the computer dumps power to the coil. No way an aftermarket CDI is gonna work.
@@GhettoWrench Oh that's great. That would make a aftermarket easier give it higher resolution anyway. I mean the stock ECU probably works but you would have to determine the safeties I'm sure it doesn't power off with the safeties it stays on it just killed power to fuel pump and Ignition. And safties are usually open to fail, so a cur wire won't disable safety. My vote is aftermarket ecu. Running spark only. Fully mappable unlike the overpriced crap sold in Colorado.
@@GhettoWrench In this case those 2 bumps are just to tell the computer the position and it works out like you were saying with the CDI but this actually has intelligence so it could potentially advance the spark because it knows how fast it's accelerating and it knows exactly where it is in a position and it could advance or retard as much as wants to . That could be actual TDC.
@ThePitProductions oh good point. Hmm. So when at TDC the no bump area is 90 degrees-ish before the sensor (counter clockwis) from the sensor.
@@GhettoWrench Is your cover back on? could you get me the degrees of the first tooth after the space? I am finding this 250i motor probably has a lot in common with the suzuki. Anyway, like I said they are similar and I am wiring up the crank trigger next.
i've experienced a very similar problem were the engine ran good at idle but the moment i touched the throttle it started to misfire like crazy after letting go of the throttle went right back to idling and sounded good on both bikes i had problems with grounds
First one was an Aprilia, the engine ground had split under the isolation, replaced it and it ran like it had just rolled out from the dealership. (found it by accidentally bumping my hand into it, the isolation snapped with no effort)
Second was a moped, specifically a Giantco which had a bad ground going to the starter, as well as on the CDI it had split. Replaced both wires and it ran like never before
Good info. I have been looking for that since it appears so "electrical"
LOVE THIS BUILD! every build has pain and suffering. NO FREE LUNCH!
Word. I either have to go back to the stock computer and wiring harness or lathe down the 16 tabs on the flywheel and weld on a new sensor tab so it's compatible with a CDI. I wish I knew if a carbureted flywheel/rotor from a old one would fit the crankshaft and over the stator. That would work with a CDI. The carb models had 2 sensor coils though.
Put the stock fuel injection back on, order a megasquirt fuel injection, mega squirt can run single injection, sounds excessive but it will give you everything you need and can program it for how you want it. Proven to work , Piaggio eu4 computer are expensive as gold, so if you import a Piaggio make sure you get the computer, but megasquirt can run it so don't matter, just makes it more fun trying to ride balancing a lap top to get your tuning at first 😂 anyways you have a o2 sensor bung so you can tune it and make your map, megasquirt only goes off crank trigger, will be able to run that engine
I actually have the old throttle body and was looking at going back to EFI but it's missing parts I think. The megasquirt idea may be way better. Thanks for the info on that. I had a CBR929 with a yoshi controller that I tuned on a lap top and loved it. So much easier.
@@GhettoWrench also would open the doors for how insane you are 😆 nitrous with timing ohhhh, blow through carb turbo are almost impossible, but turbo through a stock throttle body and upgrade injector now that is way easier, especially since then adding a blow off valve and small intake size would build a lot of boost plus since the engine is water cooled already non intercooler for easier plumbing with the tuning to back it up. 1 extra small oil pump for turbo so battery drain should be manageable, if not then 18 volt makita battery with a step down to 12 volt is a compact and proven solution to battery problems can even order the set from Amazon 😆 be racing cbr600 in no time 😀
Megasquirt is way overkill. Speeduino No2c is perfect overkill. Your probably talking more money in the missing sensors than you are for the unit. like one hundo,could be less
wiring is painful. I laughed the first 5 minutes. What size carbs are you using, did you say? My first thought was the needle. like it seems to die right where the needle should be kicking in. But EXACT same behavior with different carbs, OK, then, if you have a degree wheel and or an old school test light. degree wheel the pick-up and trigger. No guessing. The flywheel is mounted on a machine and a slotting cutter is run in and out a bunch of times like 2 dollar umm. lathe or mill would work. Or we use a aftermarket ecu and vr conditioner and either trigger a cdi or smart coil.
The sparkplugs fire every rotation.
DO YOU EVEN KNOW IF IT HAS A KEY...
38mm PWK. The one recommended for a DRZ 400. Best guess. LOL. It looks like the flywheel has never been off. I threw a degree wheel on it and the missing knobs are about 90 to 100 degrees... Which would work, but this was designed to fire when the signal was NOT sent I think. So it has 18 evenly spaced knobs the sensor detector signals. 1 every 20 degrees. 2 are missing. so 40 degrees of nothing. Weird. I think that 40 degrees is the TDC signal or the 10 to 30 degree range. (40 degrees). My idea would be to toss it on lathe and smooth out all those bumps so it was flat. Then weld a pickup at 90 degrees in that dead space so it would work with a GY6 CDI timing curve. The issue is HOW do I balance it?
Could it be a vacuum leak?
I dont think it would idle that steady with a vacuum leak big enough leak to cause it run like that. If it was a mechanical vacuum advance then I would suspect that.
I had a similar issue with my gy6. At full throttle it would die. Wrong jets AND a leaky old rubber manifold!
@frednetherlands887 I pulled the engine case off and no way this flywheeland pickup design will work with a regular CDI. Needs a computer.
Thank you. Can you tell me which app you use for measuring your speed?
Its an app called Drag Racer and the icon is DR. When I go to play store to get the link..... the app is gone.
@@GhettoWrench thank you. I found it.
I seriously want a Ruckus but listening to you explain all of these parts and knowing I have no mechanical experience has me wanting to say forget it. However, I could listen to these videos all day because it’s interesting as hell.
LOL. Get a chinese one. They are cheap. As stuff breaks you will learn about them. Plus the Chinese upgrade parts are cheap.
Like a 50-100 dollar busted ass china scooter. 4 stroke, Get the 50 to start. KNOW that you will need carb, fuel tank of some kind and the 139qmb 50cc wiring kit, might not need it, but plan for it and get it. Known good components are a lifesaver in trouble shooting. Get a multimeter, does not have to be fancy. Then nothing to it but to do it.
Hi friend take the key way out of the flywheel and you can put it wherever you want it the keyway doesn't hold it in place the press fit does.
I had that until I pulled it apart. So this magneto has 18 evenly spaced tabs at 20 degrees each and then 1 is missing. The computer is actually using the missing tooth to signal when to fire the spark. I thought the plug looked like it was sparking too much. With my CDI on there I am sparking every 20 degrees. LOL.
@@GhettoWrench so take them all out leave one on and your GY6 CDI will work
@@GhettoWrench recently started working on the GY6 platform but was big in pit bike years ago.
@alj1451 thats the plan... but I am worried about balancing it. How big of a deal you think it is to be perfectly balanced?
@@GhettoWrench it's worth a try I'll pull up a picture of it so I can understand.
We have a clean mint burgman 400 2007 we can sell you for parts as dealership never sent title to us. We have all the dealership paid in cash receipts etc but no title ever received. Had it fully serviced after purchase along with new windshield, tires, etc. My loss your gain. $1500 in Dallas. or if you need to stop by of if you are in Texas we can ride it to you and you probe wires to find the answer.
That would be perfect. I would hate to trash a good burgman. Wish I could find a crashed one. I would go easy mode and toss it in there with the fuel injection.