Austin man I am a disabled retired pipefitter/welder from local 344 in okc. Man your videos make me feel like I’m turning and burning again thank you for lifting my spirits daily 🍻
Jaws… theyre called jaws. I don’t know about in the field, but in the machine shop, we just use cheap 30 weight motor oil on the chucks to keep them nice and slicked up .
Thanks. I just picked up a couple of cheap self centering 4 jaw chucks. I am going to make a welding positioner with one and haven't decided what to do with the other. They need some lube and I wasn't sure what to use. I have a few cases of Citco 30 weight I picked up years ago on a rebate. It is my standard small engine oil and what I put in my oiler bottles.
You should try to find 3-36 lube. It is the best lube I have ever used. We used it all the time fishing on rusted boat equipment. Everything on a boat rust supper fast when you in the salt water and salty air.
They don't have to go in the same hole, but they do have to go in the same order. Some chucks have less run-out if you put the jaws in differently than marked.
I’ve learned you can weld great , and learned this past Friday that I can’t come to Oklahoma and find good duck hunting on public land . So I turned around after scouting all day and went back home to east Texas
I had a 96 dodge 3500 4x4 with duels V10 Best rig I've ever had High speed rear end could do 100mph easy fully loaded . 1800 rpm at 70 . Had it detailed every year .looked almost like knew when I retired 10 years ago . Sold it this year . Just a little maintenance goes a long way
from a machinist background... them "dogs" are jaws, and thats a "scroll" chuck, generally the jaws are reversible, though a few rare versions you need a second set to go id/od, but, a cheap lathe chuck and a couple axle bearings you could easily build your own "rotator?"
Austin, nice job on that pipe weld. After cleaning up the pipe roller assembly, use anti-seize compound where the jaws go in and out. Lasts a long time.
When it’s good and clean, a spray on Teflon or graphite will be a great way to keep it moving well. Both of those are dry lubricant after the carrier liquid evaporates.
Austin: Were it me, and I had your engineering and welding skills, I would fix up a removable "axle" for the lathe chuck/jaws/whatever, so that you could pull a pin from the front and rear side of tthe axle and slide the lathe out of the frame. Then put it in your toolbox, and spray some WD 40 or CRC *BRAND* PTF spray lube in the jaw/dogs slots, and on the gears. That will NOT prevent rust, but it will make things work slick as snot. Wax or light oil on the other parts to prevent rust.
Love the content on the PIPE!!!!! Yeah-buddy!!!!! And that guy in the ditch, you KNOW he loves it. Infrastructure heroes out there doing the hard work that regular folks take for granted using every day. As for lube, I use TriFlow. Love that stuff, but it's costly.
I’d go for a dry graphite with a ptfe additive for lube. Mainly because it won’t run out like a light oil will, or attract dust and grime. If you were in a shop I’d say light oil, but out the field graphite is the answer imo.
that rollout wheel is a lathe chuck. being out in the weather like that it will rust up real bad. you might want to use some lanolin undercoat on it like fluid film or woolwax . the stuff works great on cars . it's literally made with lanolin which comes from sheep wool . comes in clear or black.
Im a Tulsa Welding School Graduate. I was top of my class but want to learn more I felt like the school wasn't the best at teaching and I couldn't find a good job right out of school. I eventually found a job at alliance steel in OKC but the people there weren't good people and the pay vs hours wasn't worth it. If you ever want to help teach me a few things I would personally love that. I'm newly married and having a kids soon so anything could help.
I am thinking for your template, you could make a half round piece. You hold it in place mark the ends and the cope, then slide it around to meet the marks and mark the rest of the cope. This way if it is not an absolute perfect fit, you can still make it work easy. And it will take up less storage space than a full round. It could even be made of thin enough material that you could lay it out flat for storage. Just be sure to label it appropriately.
I'd bet that when all that crew in the muddy pit saw you come on location wearing that bright white starched shirt, they were sayin' "FRESH MEAT"....lol Job well done. Happy New Year to you and Kayla.
where you turned around, 1:20 it looked like the place where Tom Hanks met the lady after returning her package from the Fed X plane he crashed in the Movie 'Castaway'
That roll out wheel is just a metal lathe chuck on a shaft mount , probably can buy a used chuck that is to worn out for machine shop work cheap and make a roll out rig . Those peices that you are changing are the jaws , and on a scroll chuck where all the jaws move together they are numbered and have to be in the correct slots , on a 4 jaw independent chuck you just take the jaws out and turn end to end and replace the jaw , not numbered usually . Welders are the greatest Ark makers since Noah .
Austin, I would say the best lube for your roll out wheel Jaws would be something like Slip Plate. It is a dry graphite lube that you can buy in an aerosol can and just make sure that you clean out any of the old lube and dirt and gunk that could be in there and then shoot the teeth on the jaws with a good film and let it sit and dry and then also the big ring gear inside the chuck should get a good coating and let is cure and then reassemble. Should spin really nice for you and not collect dirt and debris.
it's funny I read all these comments and everybody telling you what to do so here's my 2 cents I'd put a coat of paint on those Jaws!!! being I'm a retired Painter😊
Treat it the same as a lathe chuck take it clear apart clean out threads inside real good and we use spindle oil but you can use 5w30 The threads inside get real nasty. And then keep it in a heavy plastic bag Love your videos Austin. Happy new year. Larry
We used an aerosol product called “Aerodag” in the railcar and locomotive repair business. It’s a spray on graphite lubricant that dries quickly when applied. I can highly recommend it! Happy new year!
Question ❓ during your weld I noticed water leaking out of the bottom of the flange area, how did you stop that? Don't want any hydrogen getting into the weld from the byproducts of breaking down the water into its elements. And why did you go with 7018 instead of 6010? Personal preference or was there a reason instead of the fast freeze rod?
I'm not sure why that jacket is white, but that's the most amazing magic that you maintain the cleanliness in a dirt hole filled with every evil that's out to stain you😅...had to edit bc I saw you were attacked on your right shoulder
PS, by the way, it was a very awesome Austin video. And you still cane out of this wet dirty hole with hardly any dirt on you. I would have come out looking like i had tried to do a swan dive in the shallow puddle. It is cool how you stay so clean and still get-er done.
Austin have you a machine shop mill a set of radius gauges for the radius of that pipe weld them together or bolt them together so they can line up vertical.and then have a set of pins made that will line up with your bolt holes of that flange where it will set vertically flush and line up with the a level .I worked in machine . Where can email you a drawing
A question for me. Did you try to make the pipe cope so that when installed, the top two bolt holes would come out on the level? Or was this a case where it did not really matter sense just stopping a leak with no further plan to make a line tap?
I kept thinking... I wonder what happens when that weld splatter burns through those Nylon straps? Nice job, Austin. BTW, those are called chuck jaws on that 3-jaw chuck.
Those “dogs” are called chuck jaws and you don’t need 2 different sets to clamp on the outside diameter and inside diameter (or larger and small diameters) you can just turn each jaw around. They fit both ways in the scroll gear of the chuck
Your roll out wheel, is actually a Scroll Metal Lathe 3-JAW Chuck. Your Name "DOG," is more commonly called a JAW. The Metal Lathe 3-Jaw Cuck, should be "Numbered" {both on the chuck itself, and the Jaws.} 1 (one) 2 (Two) 3 (three.) To install / change JAW(s) you start with the No.#.: 1, then No.#.: 2, No.#.: 3. In the world of Machinist, a 3 (three) jaw chuck, is not as precise as a 4-Jaw chuck. For the cheaper 3-Jaw chucks, you can expect as much as TIR 0.010" in. (Ten Thousandths) (TIR = Total Indicated Runout, via a Machinist Dial Indicator.) If you spend / payup for a higher quality Scroll Metal Lathe 3-JAW Chuck, say in the neighborhood of $800.00 or more, you can lower that Ten Thousand to zero TIR, repeatable. Also, you can purchase what are called "SOFT-JAWS" for the chuck. Generally used to hold onto say aluminum / copper etc. FYI.
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Austin man I am a disabled retired pipefitter/welder from local 344 in okc. Man your videos make me feel like I’m turning and burning again thank you for lifting my spirits daily 🍻
Those guys that dug the leak area and installed the stream control diverter sure made your welding job better/easier.
Does that push the water back so he can weld it? if so, why steam?
Jaws… theyre called jaws.
I don’t know about in the field, but in the machine shop, we just use cheap 30 weight motor oil on the chucks to keep them nice and slicked up .
in the field usually call em dogs just a reference
Thanks.
I just picked up a couple of cheap self centering 4 jaw chucks.
I am going to make a welding positioner with one and haven't decided what to do with the other.
They need some lube and I wasn't sure what to use.
I have a few cases of Citco 30 weight I picked up years ago on a rebate.
It is my standard small engine oil and what I put in my oiler bottles.
You can also use kroil oil to get rid of that rust works darn good
You should try to find 3-36 lube. It is the best lube I have ever used. We used it all the time fishing on rusted boat equipment. Everything on a boat rust supper fast when you in the salt water and salty air.
The jaws have numbers stamp on them, you need to make sure they get put back in the same location in the chuck which is also stamped.
They don't have to go in the same hole, but they do have to go in the same order. Some chucks have less run-out if you put the jaws in differently than marked.
I’ve learned you can weld great , and learned this past Friday that I can’t come to Oklahoma and find good duck hunting on public land . So I turned around after scouting all day and went back home to east Texas
"I appreciate your help!" You are a GOOD Man!!! VERY few appreciate their help in this world. I always do and thank you for doing so Sir!!!!
I had a 96 dodge 3500 4x4 with duels V10 Best rig I've ever had High speed rear end could do 100mph easy fully loaded . 1800 rpm at 70 . Had it detailed every year .looked almost like knew when I retired 10 years ago . Sold it this year . Just a little maintenance goes a long way
from a machinist background... them "dogs" are jaws, and thats a "scroll" chuck, generally the jaws are reversible, though a few rare versions you need a second set to go id/od, but, a cheap lathe chuck and a couple axle bearings you could easily build your own "rotator?"
Austin, nice job on that pipe weld. After cleaning up the pipe roller assembly, use anti-seize compound where the jaws go in and out. Lasts a long time.
Anti-seize on that little 3 jaw chuck
Use dry graphite lube. Comes in spray can. It is basically just pencil lead. I use it alot in my machine shop.
Stocked up on coffee so I'm ready. Hope you had a good Christmas and 2024
Hey man. Cool video. FYI. It's a three (JAW) scroll chuck. Much like what is used in the machining world on a lathe for turning metal.
Austin, that chuck on your roll-out is exactly the same as I use in the machine shop. Machinists call those pieces "jaws".
Thanks!
I have wanted to fish sooner lake in the winter for a long time.
When it’s good and clean, a spray on Teflon or graphite will be a great way to keep it moving well. Both of those are dry lubricant after the carrier liquid evaporates.
Austin: Were it me, and I had your engineering and welding skills, I would fix up a removable "axle" for the lathe chuck/jaws/whatever, so that you could pull a pin from the front and rear side of tthe axle and slide the lathe out of the frame. Then put it in your toolbox, and spray some WD 40 or CRC *BRAND* PTF spray lube in the jaw/dogs slots, and on the gears. That will NOT prevent rust, but it will make things work slick as snot. Wax or light oil on the other parts to prevent rust.
Love the content on the PIPE!!!!! Yeah-buddy!!!!! And that guy in the ditch, you KNOW he loves it. Infrastructure heroes out there doing the hard work that regular folks take for granted using every day. As for lube, I use TriFlow. Love that stuff, but it's costly.
Hey Austin Try spray on dry graphite you can get it at most farm supply stores
Thanks for a great video Austin.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year
Great to find you again 😂😂😂
Happy new to you and your family and crew. Watching your videos is away a learning experience.
They can be referred to as chuck “jaws” on your rollout wheel 🤠. Very good work on that pipeline! COME ON!!..
Thanks!
5:45 your camera man assistant did a pretty good job so far of recording you and handing rods....give him a pat on the back...
Slick 50!
Good stuff!
brake parts cleaner will probly clean that rollout wheel pretty good.easy way to clean while on the job site
I’d go for a dry graphite with a ptfe additive for lube. Mainly because it won’t run out like a light oil will, or attract dust and grime. If you were in a shop I’d say light oil, but out the field graphite is the answer imo.
that rollout wheel is a lathe chuck. being out in the weather like that it will rust up real bad. you might want to use some lanolin undercoat on it like fluid film or woolwax . the stuff works great on cars . it's literally made with lanolin which comes from sheep wool . comes in clear or black.
Im a Tulsa Welding School Graduate. I was top of my class but want to learn more I felt like the school wasn't the best at teaching and I couldn't find a good job right out of school. I eventually found a job at alliance steel in OKC but the people there weren't good people and the pay vs hours wasn't worth it. If you ever want to help teach me a few things I would personally love that. I'm newly married and having a kids soon so anything could help.
I am thinking for your template, you could make a half round piece. You hold it in place mark the ends and the cope, then slide it around to meet the marks and mark the rest of the cope. This way if it is not an absolute perfect fit, you can still make it work easy. And it will take up less storage space than a full round. It could even be made of thin enough material that you could lay it out flat for storage. Just be sure to label it appropriately.
I'd bet that when all that crew in the muddy pit saw you come on location wearing that bright white starched shirt, they were sayin' "FRESH MEAT"....lol Job well done. Happy New Year to you and Kayla.
where you turned around, 1:20 it looked like the place where Tom Hanks
met the lady after returning her package from the Fed X plane he crashed in the Movie 'Castaway'
Great video mr. Ross...that fill-freeze rod works good on those water leaks like that
That roll out wheel is just a metal lathe chuck on a shaft mount , probably can buy a used chuck that is to worn out for machine shop work cheap and make a roll out rig .
Those peices that you are changing are the jaws , and on a scroll chuck where all the jaws move together they are numbered and have to be in the correct slots , on a 4 jaw independent chuck you just take the jaws out and turn end to end and replace the jaw , not numbered usually .
Welders are the greatest Ark makers since Noah .
hit that like button chat fam...Austin giving us the goods always!
I appreciate your support. You are awesome!
I was always told WD-40 is a solvent and tri-flow is a lubricant might be on the look out for some triflow for your rollout wheel
Austin, I would say the best lube for your roll out wheel
Jaws would be something like Slip Plate. It is a dry graphite lube that you can buy in an aerosol can and just make sure that you clean out any of the old lube and dirt and gunk that could be in there and then shoot the teeth on the jaws with a good film and let it sit and dry and then also the big ring gear inside the chuck should get a good coating and let is cure and then reassemble. Should spin really nice for you and not collect dirt and debris.
it's funny I read all these comments and everybody telling you what to do so here's my 2 cents I'd put a coat of paint on those Jaws!!! being I'm a retired Painter😊
Nice Welding Rig truck HAT!!!
Use dry graffite. Available at most auto parts or supply stores. Works great on vehicle door hinges too.
How can you do this type of work being a member of 798 pipeliners local
Treat it the same as a lathe chuck take it clear apart clean out threads inside real good and we use spindle oil but you can use 5w30
The threads inside get real nasty. And then keep it in a heavy plastic bag Love your videos Austin. Happy new year. Larry
Thanks! You too!
back in the saddle so to speak.....have a wonderful New Years and a wonderful New Year, your weldor friend in Florida, Paul
A happy New Year from Germany
Thanks! You too!
We used an aerosol product called “Aerodag” in the railcar and locomotive repair business. It’s a spray on graphite lubricant that dries quickly when applied. I can highly recommend it! Happy new year!
Awesome! Thanks! You too!
Question ❓ during your weld I noticed water leaking out of the bottom of the flange area, how did you stop that? Don't want any hydrogen getting into the weld from the byproducts of breaking down the water into its elements. And why did you go with 7018 instead of 6010? Personal preference or was there a reason instead of the fast freeze rod?
Loving this kind of content
I'm not sure why that jacket is white, but that's the most amazing magic that you maintain the cleanliness in a dirt hole filled with every evil that's out to stain you😅...had to edit bc I saw you were attacked on your right shoulder
Tough job and conditions. The weld was easy for Austin.
LPS 1 is pretty thin but it would attract dirt. Boelube stick is probably better for your situation.
PS, by the way, it was a very awesome Austin video. And you still cane out of this wet dirty hole with hardly any dirt on you. I would have come out looking like i had tried to do a swan dive in the shallow puddle. It is cool how you stay so clean and still get-er done.
Maybe Kroil oil on roll out wheel. Might try P/L Welder in Capitan, NM they might have a template like you use on cutting tees for testing.
What's the welders name from Capitan
@@chevyvortec6946 it's a welding supply store.
I love me some 3/32”. Just seem to flow better idk.
Happy New Year, Austin!!!
Awesome work!
Your the Man Austin!!!! Happy New Years 🎉
Dang ol son looks like some work i do from time to time
Great job 🎉
6:32 wow, that rod angle is about 70 degrees.....
really shows that the standard '15 to 20' degree angle
is not always the only way to giter done
How was the leak found? Was it found by a pressure drop, routine check with sound, or was water coming up through the ground? Nice video.
Austin have you a machine shop mill a set of radius gauges for the radius of that pipe weld them together or bolt them together so they can line up vertical.and then have a set of pins made that will line up with your bolt holes of that flange where it will set vertically flush and line up with the a level .I worked in machine . Where can email you a drawing
A question for me. Did you try to make the pipe cope so that when installed, the top two bolt holes would come out on the level? Or was this a case where it did not really matter sense just stopping a leak with no further plan to make a line tap?
Spray graphite would be a good lubricant for it that doesn't collect dirt
Where did you get the idea for your water diverted it looks familiar
How did you weld over the water leak
I use white lithium lube. It doesn't attract dirt.
Did matter if the saddle was 2 holed or not? Just curious
Have you tried graphite powder as lubrication?
Well now that looks like the power plant at Redrock
Did yiu one pass that?
Happy New Year
You too!
Saludos desde México
Thanks for sharing this with us Austin. Ya did good !! Stay safe and keep up the great videos. Happy New Year to you and all around your shops. Fred.
Do you have any advice to get a welder helper job? I live in new mexico 30 mins from Albrqurque new mexico.
Just curious. What’s the purpose of the leather strip riveted on your hood?
I kept thinking... I wonder what happens when that weld splatter burns through those Nylon straps? Nice job, Austin. BTW, those are called chuck jaws on that 3-jaw chuck.
Thanks!
They are chuck jaws and what your putting them in is a 3 jaw chuck.
Thanks!
what determines the type of rode you use? i have been mainly a tig/mig pipe welding and just recently been tossed into stick welding
Happy New Year hand
Thanks! You too!
I'm a Rig welder,How do I get this type of work?
Get you a CME 8”Chuck don’t have to turn jaws unless your working with 12” pipe
Those “dogs” are called chuck jaws and you don’t need 2 different sets to clamp on the outside diameter and inside diameter (or larger and small diameters) you can just turn each jaw around. They fit both ways in the scroll gear of the chuck
Haven't did any pipe welding. Why only burning 1/4 of rod, seems like a waste.
All you need is a stiff arm to hold a grinder at the required space just like a Lathe
3:00 better call Macco
Did you at least thank the guy that came up with it
There called Chuck jaws. 3 jaw and 4 jaw chucks and they even make a 6 jaw chuck.
👌
Chuck "jaws"
Maybe powdered graphite. 🐢
Why isn't whole welding is half used. I've seen the whole rod used up.
We call them jaws
Thanks!
those look like 5/32 7018 to me
those dogs are chuck jaws inside and outside
4 or 40?
😎
Not a pipeliner what where you checking on your radius of your truck...
Jaws is the the Proper term.....You Are Going to need a Bigger Boat.....Jaws....
Your roll out wheel, is actually a Scroll Metal Lathe 3-JAW Chuck. Your Name "DOG," is more commonly called a JAW. The Metal Lathe 3-Jaw Cuck, should be "Numbered" {both on the chuck itself, and the Jaws.} 1 (one) 2 (Two) 3 (three.) To install / change JAW(s) you start with the No.#.: 1, then No.#.: 2, No.#.: 3. In the world of Machinist, a 3 (three) jaw chuck, is not as precise as a 4-Jaw chuck. For the cheaper 3-Jaw chucks, you can expect as much as TIR 0.010" in. (Ten Thousandths) (TIR = Total Indicated Runout, via a Machinist Dial Indicator.) If you spend / payup for a higher quality Scroll Metal Lathe 3-JAW Chuck, say in the neighborhood of $800.00 or more, you can lower that Ten Thousand to zero TIR, repeatable. Also, you can purchase what are called "SOFT-JAWS" for the chuck. Generally used to hold onto say aluminum / copper etc. FYI.