BLHeli - 100% Explained
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 พ.ค. 2016
- Please consider supporting me via Patreon at: / thedroneracingengineer
Every single BLHeli option, explained. Well, the multirotor options anyway. Direct links to specific options below.
1:15 - Read The Friendly Manual
2:06 - PPM Min and Max
3:15 - Beacon Delay and Beacon Strength
4:54 - Beep Strength
5:12 - Input Polarity
5:54 - PPM Center Throttle and Motor Direction
6:25 - PWM Frequency
8:20 - Enable PWM Input
9:36 - Demag Compensation
12:44 - Motor Timing
16:09 - Low RPM Power Protect
16:32 - PWM Output Dither
17:59 - Temperature Protection
18:39 - Startup Power
20:03 - Closed Loop Mode
21:52 - Motor Gain
22:54 - Programming By TX
I cannot even explain/express how much I learnt with this tutorial thank you very very much
+Sascha Very welcome!
Thanks a lot !
Very useful video !!!
Greetings from Ukraine !!!
I was literally looking for a video or explanation like this just a couple of days ago, thank you for taking the time to do this!
I really appreciate your videos Josh. Thank you for taking the time to help us all out. Happy flying!
+Shark Lotus Happy flying!
Massive props for the hotlinks in the description! Thumbs up!
This YT Channel has become the best top notch Multirotor Channel IMO. You release the most informative Multirotor Videos. You are the new Bruce! :D
+xuxusito Bruce will always be Bruce. And I'll be Joshua. Maybe some day I'll get to meet him!
This awesome! Thank you for taking the time and articulate all about ESC.
Thank you thank you thank you, it is so much easier to understand when somebody explains it for you. Have a nice day.
The links in the description were very useful and good video too, thank you.
You are a great speaker. I love the way you could think and speak so accurately. Thank you very much for this BLHeli training 😀
Thank you. I hope it was helpful.
EXCELLENT tutorial, mate. Thank you a lot for this detailed explanation.
Great work Josh, just like your 3 part PID tuning videos, bloody fantastic even, because of a) your knowledge and b) your one of the only presenters to laugh through your work, and lighten it up a bit, and again one of the few where there's something that isnt known about you say so ! brilliant , please please dont stop making these videos. Any one watching these vids ought to be aware that these are some fantastic guys working on our behalf, Josh B, Boris B and Ryan H are among the world leaders in this technology and equipment, and if it wasnt for these guys doing just this, then many of us wouldnt be flying race and acrobatic quads today ! Hats off to your Sirs ! and Thank you.
One of the more informative videos I've watched recently. Thanks!
+Justin Bailey (Mr. Shakes) My pleasure!
Thank you for this tutorial, Joshua!
Priceless information
Excellent video Josh.one of your most informative yet.
+mrmurder75 Thanks!
Awesome. Thanks for putting this together.
Thank you for explaining all this. I refer to your video often! My quad was wobbly because my startup power was too slow. It appears to be as important as having PWM timing set to Damped Light so motor speed will respond as soon as flight controller tells it to.
I have watched HOURS of your videos this week. I understood about %40 of it, I absorbed about %40 of that. I learned a whole lot in the end. I will understand the PID's someday lol
Such an amazing video! Thanks to this one and the cleanflight pass through I can finally get my little bees to actively brake and tune them in other things!
Have to thank you for your videos some of the best information ive found on the net!
Very kind of you to say. Glad it was helpful.
thanks for the effort Joshua!
Thank you very much for this one Joshua. I am somewhat new to quads (although not to RC) and there is so much to learn. Both my quads had a slight wobble in flight and I was wracking my brains to solve it. I watched this video one more time and realised that I had my PWM Freq set to High instead of Damped light for both quads. Made the change and the wobble problem completely disappeared. Thanks Again!
Damped light definitely makes a huge difference in handling. Always run damped light in blheli. In BLheli_S and going forward, it's not even possible to turn it off.
Very good video Josh, you have a great knack for explaining things in simple terms!
+Sean Duffy Thanks very much.
I learned more from this video on ESC that I've known for the 20 years I've been flying thank-you so much keep up the good work
One of the Best how to vids on you tube
Thanks!
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you! This is great, I've learned so much from this video.
super useful video! more like this please!
brilliant explanation! very nice video. thanks
This was really great. Thank you for this!
You are the MAN... Thanks
I'm just about to watch this and I already know my world is about to get larger...much larger...nice one
You have a pretty awesome energy all along the video lol
Thanks for sharing and enjoy the rest of your week
+ABMNS PRODUCTION Love this comment! Thanks so much! You too!
Joshua, great info. I revisited this video today cause I felt I wasn't getting full potential out of my ZMX2206 2150kv motors. I changed the timing to mid-low and my god the difference was so much better. Quicker acceleration then when on mid timing.Keep up your great work cause there are so many people that appreciate these videos you make.
+Phongsta weird! But I'm glad it helped!
I know right but I think because I'm currently running 6 inch props the slower timing helps the motors wind the heavier prop. On another subject I saw a comment on one other of your videos that you were going to try the Matek powerOSD. Just wondering if you had a chance to do this?
I have it, but I have not yet put it into a build. Right now, I have Group Three battery tests to do, and I have an Emax Falcon RFT quadcopter to test/tune/review, and then I am going to start thinking about building again, and I plan to make it a priority to put the HubOSD into a build.
I know that this is a product that people are excited to hear about, but I just don't think it's right to review it without actually building it and flying it, and my schedule is always super backed up.
very well explained thx
super helpful tutorial,
Thank you for all your hard work. You're taking the voodoo out of setup for the lay people. :) It's also a HUGE help that you had the foresight to list each step with a link to the time because I use this as a reference a lot. Great job!
Awesome. Glad it's helpful!
and thank you for all your great info your channel has become my GO TO on multi rotor info thanks a million..............and dont cut yourself short on your piloting skills. dude your a BADASS!!!!!!!
+George Posey I'm okay but I'm nowhere near on the level of guys like Johnny FPV, FGA, Steele, etc... maybe if I spent more time flying and less time making videos.
idem for me Joshua, best teacher for this hobby!
Awesome, Awesome job!!!! This was much needed knowledge for someone to breakdown!
+anrachy187matt Glad it was helpful!
Thank you very much for the explanation !!!!
Thanks a lot for this useful, compact and precise explanation 👍🤓👌
Glad it was helpful.
Great info, thanks!
Thanks for the class, man.
I was about to ask your opinion on what I should set my motor timing on, but then I learned we have the same exact motors! (and i think ESC's too XD) Many thanks! This video helped me out a lot and so do all of your others.
Great vid buddy. I always wondered what dither did... now I know :)
This is awesome content.
Very good videos. Precise wording. Thanks.
+Jason Wolfe thanks!
Really appreciate this video,, cleared up my questions
Awesome!
Proper vid Josh 👍
excellent video
Thank you thank you thank you for this video!
You're very welcome!
Don't know if you have seen my posts about my motors heating up during calibration josh, but at 3.58 in your video I think you just solved that problem for me. I turned my beacon up to 250,for exactly the reason you say you might do it, so they are loud because I removed my buzzer. When I calibrate the esc's, they get to the last few beeps and the temp on each motor rockets. That's gotta be the reason why. You the man josh.
*posts on the betaflight thread*
+mrmurder75 just an FYI, I had my beacon strength at 250.so almost maxed out.
you now have exactly 7000 subscibers on my screen. Congratulations!
+MTL Racing Sweeeet. I have to start thinking of what my 10k special is going to be. Around 2k, I realized that if I did a special every 1k, I was going to run out of steam pretty fast. So I decided 10k would be my next big milestone. Hmmm...
+Joshua Bardwell shouldn't be long before you reach 10k at the rate the channel is growing
+MTL Racing I'm around 1700-2000 a month right now. It's dropped a bit since last month, but just a bit.
Thanks Joshua!
nice one Josh!
And I am back again... Really like this video. Waiting for Blheli32 video with some explanation.
Awesome video! thanks!
Flashed my first esc's today with arduino/ 14.4. A set of emax 12a and xrotor 20a. With all your help, i'm finally getting confident enough to dive in the blheli side of things. maybe I won't build Kiss for my next setup. This is way too much fun.
+SeanZ FPV I agree!
Thank you!
Ive never seen that manual tab..... That's a life saver. I thought that with dither, the lower you went, the smaller the plateau on top of the throttle curve
+sciullo779 well, you could be right. I haven't tested it. I assumed that more dither means less step because there is more variability in the signal so the step is obscured.
Thank you so much for that tutorial
Thanks for watching!
Really excellent video
Great tutorial, thanks so much.
+Simon Wallace glad it was helpful.
Thx so much for this Joshua! I had been trying forever to tune out a small twitch at full throttle and finally gave up. Now I see it is because my max throttle calibration in the esc's were all at 2020 so at full throttle the motors were not matched up. I lowered full throttle in Cleanflight and recalibrated and now I suspect that problem will be gone. Highest esc full throttle calibration is now 2012. They range from 1992 to 2012
+Michael Koster hope it works!
Thank you! Really helpful!
thank you for posting and demystifying the available options in the suite, I just wanted to know how to reverse motor direction on some cobras 2204's ......... walked away with oodles more! Good job! thank you!
+Eduardo Esparra glad to help
thank you sir
+G-nice Thanks for watching.
Thanks Josh this helped allot. I've wondered about several of those settings and I was always too afraid to try to change them to see what happened if I could not find documentation so I greatly appreciate this even still today with blheli s thanks bro
@Joshua Bardwell with bl heli s 32 do u recommend different settings? And sorry one more, for 2206 2100 kv motors I do want med low to be safe? And with 2306 2450s would that simply be med high? Or does the size of the motor negate this? Thank you again u help me everyday... Patreron incoming..
I wouldn't assume that any size or kv of motor had any specific timing requirement. I just leave timing at default.
For _32, I suggest chaging the motor PWM rate to 48 kHz.
Joshua Bardwell ty Josh
excellent video as usual! I understand 3-phase motors and inverters (in the kW and MW range :P ), you have nicely translated these options in to things that make sense for me!
It's the exact same technology underneath, really. Thanks for watching!
yea it's crazy how much work the ESC does! Do you know where the energy from the active braking goes? I assumed it was soaked up by the esc somewhere but I thought they would get hotter :/
Back into the battery.
that is pretty nuts for such a small package! Thanks for taking the time to reply, I don't know how you find all this time for everything! :)
I don't think temperature protection starts working until around 170 degrees F. So shouldn't cause any issues, but I get what you are saying here.
Currently startup power controls:
- The max and min power applied during startup
- The max power during a direction reversal in bidirectional mode
- The minimum power level that low rpm limiting will limit to
Hope this is helpful for you and your viewers. This info was recently posted in the blheli thread on rcgroups. This was a good video that will be relevant for a long time. Good job here.
+Rc Dad Thank you for the additional details on the startup power. I always turn it up because I feel like with smaller props, there shouldn't be an issue. But I'm never sure if that's the right thing to do. I would love to get a recommendation from anybody who knows for sure as to what motor/prop the default setting is tailored towards.
If you are turning it up and not getting any bad side effects, like desyncs, i'd say you are fine. It is probably not effecting you at all in normal flight, just on very low motor speeds.
Here is more additional info I have on the subject. The lower you set startup power the slower acceleration and the lower current draw will be at low rpms.
When the motor spins slowly, the bemf voltage is low, and high motor currents can disturb comparator readings. So in order to avoid that, power is limited when demag comp is set to high.
Omg yes thank you!
I think the "whirrly, spinning thing" that you mentioned, is called a merry-go-round. :)
thenks thenks
wery informative !
Fantastic...I was wondering what all that crap was...thanks :)
Hi Joshua just starting out in this field comming from toy grade to hobby grade. Not only was i wrong about the fact that i thought these quads would be a lot more complicated or more specificaly harder to control. It is becomming apparent that actually in hindsight the opposite appliese. That is of course as long as you have taken the time and effort to research and learn the different settings and functions that will make the trasition more smooth.
Having only been flying since last July it would be foolish of me to say my skill level
is high , however i own 2 brushless quads and am fairly competant with both. I practice regularly concentrating mostely on keeping good tight control and flying safely, aggresive but responsible aggresion if that makes sense.
I have seen a lot of vidios where people have posted about how flimsey different quads are and how they have been able to break them from what they consider to be normal crash scenarios. I hate crashing and have only done so a hand full of times since comming to grips with the fundamentals. with your great and informative vidios i am sure if more people just took the time to research them there would be a lot less unhappy pilots complaining about inferior products.
Your ESC will beep even if your RX failed and you can flip that switch all day long.
Keep a moderate volume on the beacon, 1-2 minutes timeout and it will save you butt even if you didn't crash but just forgot to unplug the battery before packing the quad.
I puffed packs like that... :)) But not anymore as the buggers beep and peep so I remember to unplug or just o help me on finding it in the green.
It goes to 11! lol Great video, thank you.
My experience about the use of Closed Loop Mode: higher rpm control bandwidth, eventuall more locked in copter. Basically the rpm feedback replaces the D-Term of the FC in terms of compensating for the inertia of motor and props. The FC (in rate mode) is then seeing a first order system, where only P and I remain (with different values!) and become motor-independent. Removing the time derivative of the gyro signals in the FC allows to set the filters faster and achieve higher rate control bandwidth. Apparently, as feedback signals, the rpm is less noisy than the time derivative of the gyro, although rpm is a time derivative as well (of the estimated back EMF position).
Anyways, my 5 inch quad became super locked in with this, after re-tuning everything...and almost burning it up ;-). Shame that this option seems to be gone in newer BLHeli versions...
bam there it is
Hi Joshua. I purchased 4 in 1 Little bee ESC. Previously I used 4 individual pros but I popped one. The local shop only had the 4 in 1 one so I took the plunge. I've had nothing but problems! I have blheli 14.6 installed on them. When I plug my quadcopter into cleanflight. I set it to air mode then I start giving it yaw, roll and pitch. When I use these movements, any motor that gets up to the 1600 mark will "stutter". The motor will start jumping up and down from 1500 to 1700 if I try and keep them spinning at the 1600 mark. For example. I roll left to raise motors 1 and 2. When they get to 1600, they stutter. When I pitch forward. Motors 1 and 3 will rise up to 1600, then stutter... But... If I pitch forward lightly and get motors 1 and 3 up to 1500 for example.. it's as steady as a rock! No fluxuations...no stutters...nothing! The same goes for going past 1700. My maximum throttle is 1850 (Max rpm is at 1840). It's just at that 1600 range where all my motors struggle and make some sort of grinding noise. It's really frustrating! I have moved my flight controller to the maximum length the cables can reach (4 inches) and it still does this stuttering, so that rules out interference. I have tried switching off oneshot125 and dampedlight....it made it worse! Removing damped light made my quadcopter uncontrollable. Without dampedlight, you do not hear any stuttering or grinding noises. You do see the jumping and stuttering inside cleanflight. I'm pulling my hair out over this crap! I came from 4x littlebee pros to a 4 in 1 ESC board. All exactly the same settings. Same FC... same everything! just the only difference is all my ESCS are on one board.... I cannot find anything about this online! Do you have any ideas what this could be? Changing motor timing to medium high makes the stuttering less aggressive but on high and low there is no differences. I've resoldered all my wires. I've made sure (when my fc is fitted in) that my FC is not touching any thing to do with the esc board. It even has separate mounting risers (it hangs from the top plate of my emax200 nighthawk and my esc board is raised up from the bottom). To make matters even more confusing. If I rev up my motors via cleanflight or even blheli software... they don't stutter!! I can rev all my motors via software and they will not stutter at any point! My receiver and sensors tab show no sign of any interference or spikes in gyros or receiver signals... I'm stuck... I've asked on forums, I've asked local people who fly quadcopters and they have no idea... I really don't want this to be an ESC issue. Would you know what the issue is?
If it doesn't do it in the Motors tab, then it's less likely to be a timing issue, although not impossible.
Are you testing with the props off? Put the props on and see if you can hover.
+Joshua Bardwell I am testing with props off. It can fly with this stutter but you cannot fly slow. If you are flying fpv low and slow, if you try and bank for example you will hear the quadcopter stutter, tick and make weird noises. It will also drop on the high side (bank left, motors 1 and 2 stutter, drop and pick up again) However if I am aggressive with the throttle and control sticks, I won't hear or feel the motors stuttering! It just seems to be at this certain point they stutter. After further testing if you use the throttle to bring all motor speeds up, the stutter comes earlier. If throttle is low, stutter comes at higher rpms.... Very strange. I'm going to get someone to come up with a decent video camera to record it. I really can't explain it properly. I am almost certain it is to do with the ESCS or my FC. Maybe even compatibility issues between them.
I have just uploaded a video to my channel called motor stuttering issue. My dad couldn't quite keep the quad in frame but the main purpose was the sound. You can't see the effects of the corners dropping while the stuttering happens but I can assure you that you can see and feel it while flying. It's worse via fpv.
Try using the motors tab and twitching the sliders quickly instead of moving them smoothly.
Working perfectly. No weird stuttering. Quick bursts to full throttle and nothing seems to perfect. All motors spin up at the same time and stop at the same time. No weird noises like in my flight video. Tried each individual motor. Quickly twitching the motors at various speeds and bursts from 0 to full to 0. All motors performed exactly the same.
Josh, I watched this video the day you released it and said, "That's cool that he explained all that." This past weekend I installed the Lux in a new SCX-200 with DYS XM20A ESC. I immediately got the twitch in the yaw axis. The same behavior that I had in the Naze Rev6. So I sit and ponder this....go in the forms, and everyones screaming O-RINGS, YOU HAVE TO USE 5,645 O-RINGS THEN IT'S SMOOTH!!! That sounded so stupid to me. Then I ran across this video in my search for a solution. You know what fixed it?? Raising the Dither to 31. Based off of your info, and logic, it seemed like a reasonable explaination for what was going on and a permanent fix. So, Thanks, and keep putting that scienticifc spin on why this stuff behaves the way it does. BTW, I stopped using BB. Like you said if it flies like I want it, who cares what the D-TERM looks like on the graphs
+badandy122376 hey, glad you fixed it anyway.
i actually liked the low power limiter when i started. would have been awesome if they include it as an option instead.
Knocking out the Park tonight Joshua.
+Rob B Awesome! Thanks for saying.
Joshua Bardwell, is it possible to flash a plane esc for rc car use? i want to make a RC spinning top but i need a brushless micro reverse able esc and i cant find any. dont want to go brushed
Thanks for the Beacon Strength info. I wonderd why the motors would make that burnt electrical smell after 30 seconds of beeping.
+FPVX Oops.
I'm a little confused with esc calibration and min. cmd / max thr. after watching this and your newer videos. I'm using BF 3.0.1 and blheli 14.6 and when I calibrate in BF, the max thr. shows 2020 in blheli. should I be calibrating the esc's in both blheli motors tab and BF? Do I need to lower max thr. in BF? Also I saw you set min. cmd. to 980 in the newer videos. I'm a bit confused what I should set them to and where. Naze32 rev.5 w/BF 3.0.1 and oneshot125, Hobbywing xrotor 20a flashed with blheli 14.6, and emax mt2204ii's. Please help get me straight Joshua.
I thought I wouldnt need the beacon feature. I set it to 5 minutes anyway.
I managed to do crash into a load of bushes and one of the thin straggly branches got inside the copter and RIPPED OFF THE BEEPER! Beacon saved my ass.
Joshua, you are an awesome teacher... thank you. Do you still suggest using demag (low) while using Betaflight "Airmode"?
Airmode and demag shouldn't have too much to do with each other. I suppose the additional authority at low throttle from air mode could stimulate demag events on setups that were on the edge. I wouldn't change demag except as a last resort. Demag high will definitely reduce the performance of the motors.
if you don't mind letting me know I have little bee 20a and they are already flash with blheli got everything solder in I connect to my cc3d that is flash with betaflight and going through cleanflight I know I have to power the flight controller but I can't get it to connect with blhelisuite. would you know what I could do? just trying to reverse both motors
Hello Joshua, great video! Hey I have question, I'm currently putting together a long range/endurance quadcopter and since weight savings is at the top of the list, I decided to use Hobbywing XROTOR 30A M series ESC's (only 7g). My question is what happened to the "low-voltage cutoff" option on BLHeli suite 14.x? Version 13.2 still offers it. I need to be able to turn off "voltage cutoff " because I'm using NCR18650 batteries which can safely be discharged down to 2.5v per cell. I flashed my ESC's with BLHeli 14.8 and that setting is missing. Thank you !
I think the Multi firmware got rid of the LVC. On a multirotor you don't want LVC. I would ask on the BLHeli rcgroups thread for an explanation of why it was removed.
if you reversed the motor direction with blhelisuite , its ok for the motors or the ESCs?
its ok if I will flash the LB20A_S with the BLHeli_S Rev. 16.4 ?? They did not burn in flight??
Thank you for all of your informative videos; just starting out in the hobby, so these are essential. I'm using the Racerstar 4in1 6A w/a PIKO BLX on a 90mm micro build, and I'm hoping to use this suite to change motor spin direction; I dont know if passthrough is available to me with this setup. If so, can you explain it and/or point me in the right direction as to how to set that up? Im aware that I can simply resolder switched wires, but i'm trying to avoid taking this quad apart for a fourth time, lol.
+E. Delgado pass through does work with your setup. Use blheli chrome app to reverse motor directions.
Trying to understand esc better. You have two setting that are important for keeping the motor in check. Motor timings and demag. Anyome correct me if I'm wrong but if I understand things correctly motor times is used for pulling magnate the direction you want the motor to spin a head of time. Also know as slip. Energizing and letting go at the right time as the magnate spins pass. Cannot find to much on demag but I think it's like adding drag to help stop the motor over spinning. Also helps with spinning down the motor and along with motor timings a more correct RPM can be set... This is how I understand things how correct am I anyone thank you ??
Okay, thank you eraser my comment and ask!
I flashed 4in1 on blheli suite, but is still spooling up to full throttle when start to raise throttle even with props on..?? Please help why motors keep spooling up because I have been trouble shooting for weeks..?
Can you hover the quad? If they spool up slowly after you raise the throttle, that could be normal. Just take off and see if it hovers.
If they spool up instantly to max, that's different.
What do you think is wrong if I have a slight yaw drift? Not sure when it started but when I have my quad on the ground and give it enough throttle to spin the motors, I hear one or two motors getting faster and faster until it tilts and yaws on the floor. I'm using blhelisuite and cleanflight for a qav-r running lux.
forgot to mention, but it also happens in the air when flying. never had this problem before.
+Nick1814 confirm yaw channel centers at 1500.
Yaw is at 1496. That might explain it. I'll adjust it on the RX and see if that fixes it. Thanks!
im flying a zmr250 quad, with a old Atom flight controller, it flys well, however when i go full throttle the quad pulls to one side and backwards, how do i go about fixing this?
Hi Joshua. My Cobra motor requires 5 to 10 degrees timing, how does this relate to low, med high on BLheli Suite. Thanks for your very educating videos.
It doesn't. Just use medium timing and you will be fine.
Beautiful explanation Joshua, I have one really dumb question, I'm flashing each esc (littlebee 20a pro) flashing multishot (thanks to you) so how do I save the changes that i made, cause when I disconnect the esc and reconnect all the changes are gone, thanks a lot
never mind , found "write setup"
Thank you for this tutorial, nevertheless I have a question which parametres are better for low kv motors, like a DYS DE4114 400kv, it's for heavy hexacopter (AUW = 6.5kg) and ESC RCTimer T40A.
+Nurjan Yesmagambet lower timing is sometimes better for larger motors.