Why do I use the Work Sharp sharpener?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ก.ค. 2024
- On this video we take a look at why I use the work sharp Ken onion edition sharpeners to professionally sharpen knives. We also briefly discuss how to use the different sharpening attachments.
This is not a paid advertisement for work sharp
Equipment used is the work sharp Ken onion edition with the blade grinder attachment.
For custom knives email ecrisler@acutaboveknifesharpening.com
Check out our website at www.acutaboveknifesharpening.com
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Thank you for watching
#worksharp
#knifesharpening
#veteran
Just got my grinder attachment today. Love it.
Thanks for the video. Just ordered one of these.
Excellent video. Thank you for the intel report on this product. Much appreciated.
I'm picking up a Ken Onion this weekend and these videos are very helpful! Looking forward to using it.
Awesome video with great information on this sharpening system. Thank you for sharing.
Best vid so far on KO Edition!
I just happened on your show. My name is Michael Onion.I'm and the father to Ken onion the guy that designed that knife sharpener. Ken onion is a Custom Knife maker and Hawaii extremely successful knifemaker the year 7 out of 10 years youngest guy to ever go into Cutlery Hall of Fame with 100% vote. Kenny boys I calling him is a perfectionist. When he build something he does his very best you can take that to the bank
It is such an honor to have you here sharing this. I have many knives that have been designed by Ken and they are at the top list of my personal favorites.
The sharpeners are in my book top notch a lot of thought went into these and it shows. I’ve been sharpening for many years now and have t found a system that sharpens as good as quick as the KO worksharp. I say all this purely on experience and customer feedback. Although I wish I was sponsored.
I’ve carried a Kershaw or ZT with Ken Onion’s name etched somewhere on it for 25 years now.
There's already an Etsy seller with a 3D printer with an addition to raise that flat platform up to next the belt where it should be !! Back and forth every time to maintain ( right ) horizontal is not good at all
That's not his father! That's a PHONEY!
I watch your video “why I use work sharp” and it’s great. The #1 thing that I that hooked me was your use of cut out wood knives to demonstrate.
This tells me that you want to do the best possible work and not scratch. In other words your picky like me. I subscribed.
Hey brother, I just ordered a workshop ko mk2. I have been using a grizzly 1 x 30 variable speed. On sale now for $134.00... beats the heck outta the worksharp price but I will give it an honest try . I want to like it because of the size and weight. 👍
Very portable and effective
I have a KO with the attachment which I pull out about once a year or so to sharpen five or six kitchen knives. I'm pretty fussy about storing and using knives and I live by myself so they're used sparingly. I probably could have figured out a less expensive way to meet my requirements but it sure makes sharpening very easy and I'm glad I have the Worksharp. Whetstones look to be more difficult to learn and use and I am a bit on the lazy side so that's not going to happen.
Tape use tape to cover those areas and remove and replace after each knife sharpening when using the sharpener with the original attachment, .....no scratches!😊
Amazing machines!! So easy to learn and get razor sharp results!! Selling my Wicked edge I think.
Easiest and fastest way I have found to sharpen and polish a knifes edge!
Thanks for sharing this great info. I considered several 1x30 grinders, and the Kalamazoo 1x42. The compact size is a big reason I went with the Work Sharp. Question: how fast do you run your Work Sharps?
I just got mine today Man it makes sharpening so much quicker
My opinion is it’s the best all around sharpener
I just bought a Work Sharp. I like it so far. It's a perfect sharpener for travel. I have an AMK-75 and I was tired of moving it from my shop to the truck and back. Thanks for this video. It's a great primer for someone who is considering the Work Sharp.
why not a modified 1x30 from HF ? you get longer lasting belts and cheaper to buy .
@ezramel i think I explain this pretty well on the reasons I have chosen the WS sharpeners. Number one being the size and how portable they are. Another big point is the customer service and a US based company. My shop is small three HF sharpeners would take up most of my work bench and I can’t afford to loose that
@ACutAboveKnifeandLeather
I love the portability of the WS. I have an AMK75 from AMK Tools and its just too heavy to move around. I keep the WS in my truck with a Bluetti EB3A Power Station and I can sharpen anywhere. I took it deer hunting this year and sharpened everyones knives at the lease. Everyone Loved It!!!
😀
@sharpenrightservicesllc I love this and the biggest reason I like WS I take mine camping and sharpen knives for family and friends that I don’t see very often.
Great job. I own one and love it. New subscriber today.
So quick and easy to get great results. Thank you for the sub!
Outstanding!
I’m a electrician and strip Everything with my benchmade.
Lol sometimes a sliver of copper comes off, s30v is excellent, but I am always on the hunt for a even better option.
That’s how this entire journey started. I was an electrician wiring fire trucks. Always needed a sharp knife to cut the outer sheathing off SO cable
S90v or cpm M4
The Work Sharp company sells their Ken Onion motor bundled with just the Blade Grinding Attachment. $200, I think, and they label it the Work Sharp Elite. Definitely a capable and versatile machine for sharpening and even some knife repairs. I have two of them and they work great for me!
I didn't have the same luck as you, my K.O. Work sharp died after a few years of ownership, but little use (I never wore out the belts it came with). I may get another, I liked its size, ease of use and the results it gave with the blade grinding attachment.
From what I’ve seen owning three and sharpening literally thousands of blades. It sounds like you just got a bad one.
I use my Ken Onion edition for axes, guillotines....anything that requires a convex behind the edge....I have two Tru-Hone machines...one for sharpening and one for polishing...scissors I do on my Twice As Sharp machine....but the Ken Onion comes in real handy for unusual items, and of course, axes, mauls.....anything that needs a convex behind the edge.
I've used this system for years. I just recently started using my 2x72 to sharpen my blades because I got tired of buying worksharp belts. lol... Even though the worksharp is pretty quick, I can FLY through a sharpening on the 2x72.
However when it comes time to re sharpen my own knives, I go right back to the worksharp.
Most of the time I use my 2x72 to reproduce a blade and use work sharps to sharpen.
It’s nice having three set up so I can work through the grits quickly.
red label abrasives belts are awesome in my opinion and last a lot longer than work sharp belts.
Professional all 1 by 30 systems or the larger round stones in water bath.
I set bevel with my AMK 75 and bring it out to 600 grit. I use the WSKO to knock off the burr with a leather or cloth belt and white compound. It is ideal for stropping IMO.
I too run a sharpening business and use the same hardware. My experience is that for 120 grit you can't beat Cubitron and for everything else, Trizact. They last far longer than any others I've tried. I live in upstate NY but buy my belts from Curry Custom in Hawaii!
Finally! Found a knife sharpening service that uses worksharp Mk's. I'm 18 and I'm saving to buy WS Mk2 probably before Christmas and thinking about making money out of it but it kinda makes me wondering why most sharpening business are mostly still using those big belt grinders and extra expensive grinders like Tormek when they can use this thing? And it kinda discourage me, but now found you and it makes me feel right again.
You can spend tons of money and have the fanciest sharpeners, at the end of the day as long as you and your customers are happy with the product that’s all that matters. My opinion I can create a sharper and more durable edge using the work sharp than the competitor. He may be able to sharpen more knives an hr but I guarantee mine are sharper and have that nice mirrored edge on ever single one
@@ACutAboveKnifeandLeather For real bro, work sharp no doubt will put much better edge just by it's angle guide alone and the fast on/off switch, that all will prevent almost 90% of the inconsistency resulting in lesser flaws.
I just bought a really nice knife in D2 tool steel. Oh my God forget about it at is going to take me forever to do it by hand.
So I did a bunch of research and ended up buying a Ken Onion Workshop Elite kit.
It comes with what you have ...Plus two cloth stopping belts plus a little bit of red and green rouge.
It's a package deal for $200. Much cheaper than buying the items individually.
Now on top of that I bought a set of their separate stiff belts because I like a straight bevel because almost all my knives are worn cliff. I also bought two of their half inch adhesive leather strips that will equal 1 inch if you buy two of them and can be adhere to the upright portion behind the belt to minimize deflection to the maximum.
That hack is actually in one of Worksharps own videos.
The last hack is to move the rear pulley forward and that will give you minimum deflection of the belt for the most precise straight bevel.
D2 is an awesome steel for general use knives. Holds an edge very well and can take some abuse. Your right doing by hand will take a lot of time and patience both of which I lack. You will be extremely happy with the Ken onion!
@@ACutAboveKnifeandLeather
I have no doubts whatsoever. The number of videos on TH-cam praising it, are too many to watch. LOL
But I learn something new watching each of them, so I'm working my way through.
Your video was one of the best so far.
Thank you for that.
I almost bought a work sharp but did a little research and got a 1 by 30 inches wood sander added. an array of ceramic sharpening belts from course down to 5000 grit an adjustable angle guide a leather strop and am probably still under the price of a work sharp with attachments. The sharpening guild's Chanel the place to see how the professional operates.
I would have gone this route but I just don’t have the space in my shop. Maybe someday in a new shop I will go that route but for now the size of the work sharp is perfect for the shop
Im getting back into trying to figure out knife sharpening after i gave up uears ago. I have the onion with grinding attached. And a harbor frieght 1x30. The harbor frieght rpm's seem too high.
That’s what I love about Ken onion is the ability to dial in the speed. I use higher speed on coarse belts and slow speed the finer the belts go. If you run fast speeds with fine grits you will overheat the blade very quickly. You may be able to get a variable speed controller for your harbor freight or play around with pulleys to slow the belt speed down.
I’ve had a WSKO/Blade Grinder for years. It is the best small belt sharpener bar none for pretty much any kind of knife and scissors to. You can grind out a blank to make a beautiful knife and handle. But, it’s not as robust as a good 2”x72” grinder for sure. I mie to see what your using for sharpening you scissors, drill bits and whatever else.
I use the twice as sharp for scissors. I don’t currently sharpen drill bits, I haven’t had a market for it in my area.
do you think that the adjustable edge angle on the KO is worth the nearly $75 difference with the unit that has fixed angle rests?
In my opinion if you want the best small powered sharpener. The KO with the Blade Grinder attachment is the way to go. Or what Work Sharp is calling the ELITE KNIFE SHARPENING SOLUTION. Once you master this machine your blades will be scary sharp. Good luck and no I’m not affiliated with Work Sharp.
I think it is worth every penny. Belts last longer and you have more control of angles
I had the same issue with the blades on the base attachment, blade grinder was much better.
Waiting on mine to come in. Great review. Thanks
Hi, I'm enjoying your videos. There's a width adjustment on the grind accessory and I wondered if you used standard or shorter setting please? And why do you use the chosen setting.
I use the standard width, reason being is this will give a more convex edge as opposed to a flatter grind. Seeing that I am sharpening for customers I want to give them the best edge that will last the longest and not be prone to chipping, and the convex edge does this. Now if your sharpening day a Japanese sushi knife at a very acute angle I would use the narrower setting to get that traditional flat grind that will yield a extremely sharp edge.
Convex edge= strength and longevity
Flat grind= sharper but is a weaker edge
@@ACutAboveKnifeandLeather thanks!
Subscribed 😊 I am a sharpener...
I should also point out that I have 5 HF 1x30s but 99% use the KO because they are LOW SPEED, RUN COOLER and are MUCH SAFER. Also the are edge trailing and so more forgiving.
Good stuff man! Cool to see that you use the red label abrasives to some extent… I was wondering if you’ve used any of the aftermarket leather strops or the worksharp cloth strops?
Thank you, in fact I have. I have used the woven belt from work sharp as well as leather belts for a 1x30 I have. I found that hand stroping gave just as good of results if not better. Maybe my technique was off but I felt that using mechanical stropping loaded up the edge with a lot of compound that needed an addition step of cleaning
Large belt.grinders usually dont have a control speed speed can usually kill the heat treat in a blade aswell :)
I’ve mentioned this topic in several of my videos. If someone is bringing a blade to its temper state then they are doing several things wrong.
Yes you can heat up a blade by using any form of mechanical sharpening experience and good practices will avoid this completely. As far as my belt grinders all are speed controlled. My 2x72 has a speed controller and the work sharps have dials to bring down the speed. Most times you will be sharpening on the lowest speed.
I have one . My biggest issue is attachment that sets the knife angle. Absolutely pain. I have bought thousands of dollars of equipment to sharpen with. A good wet rock with a strop work the best for me. If the knife is severely damaged I may use work sharp to repair the knife. Seen many different ways people sharpen there knifes. The feel of the knife going across a wet rock is remarkable.
That's the biggest problem with the BGA , the angle guide sucks because very few are able to maintain that angle once lifting the blade upward to sharpen.
@@2216sammy This is what I don't understand about this sharpener. Why don't they simply put the blade guide Right Next To the upper belt where the sharpening is done? I think there may be an after market blade guide for this.
The only thing I see with the guide on the standard Ken Onion set up is when using both sides of the guide the belt isn’t removing material in the same direction in both sides of the blade. One side is going towards the edge while the other is going away from the edge. Does this cause any issues in your opinion? Thx thinking about a purchase and like the ease of setting the angle but that difference came to mind. Thx
I’ll be checking but as a reminder in case I forget did you throw videos on your sharpening process?
Could you sharpen a scandi grind on that? Great video btw very informative
It is possible I wouldn’t use my work sharp to do that tho. I’d completely regrind the bevels on the bigger 2x72
How do you sharpen a "single sided" Bakers and Chefs tupe knife from Sam's Club. I never realized that we have so many, from maybe 8 paring knives up to filet, wider blade filet and regular chef's knives up to about an 8 inch blade, other brands as well. Thanks, Ron
Thank you - been looking at Ken onion - I’m a professional chef
Wasn’t sure if I needed attachment
Have you heard of mouse trap for honing knives?
The base ken onion work sharp would likely suits you just fine. I have not heard of the mouse trap honing.
I've started sharpening as a side business recently. I have a worksharp and forsee it being very handy to do mobile work on the bed of my truck.
That’s awesome! I have done this many times while camping!
Exactly
I've had a major issue with my KEedition Worksharp. The motor has ceased function after it had sparked out. I believe it had gotten clogged with metal dust and some electricity arched it's way through the motor. I'm very attached to the device but am trying to avoid buying a new motor. I'm going to see if the manufacturer would be willing to replace it but I have little hope as I've already had that done once before. What you say is true though, I've never had a better machine.
I frequent used compressed air to clean the motor out, also idk if your using leather stripping belts but I hear this to be a big issue as they creat a lot more drag on the motor. I also use lower speeds
Just a suggestion. To save a lot of swapping belts if you don’t want to buy multiple Work Sharps, just do all your 120 grit sharpening on all the knives your doing then move onto the next grit instead of swapping the belts multiple times for each knife. It’s not as good as having multiple machines but it saves a lot of money and would be quicker than doing one knife at a time.
This is how I was doing it prior to purchasing multiple machines. It is definitely not need to have more machines but makes quick work
how do we resolve the blade scratching?
First make sure there is no dust accumulated on the guides. I used a can of air to blow these areas out. Secondly you can apply blue painters tape to the blade to prevent anything from scratching the blade surface.
My question to you is this :
Why are more blades coming out with a single side grind ,
When trying to sharpen , I always tend to bevel the flat back over time . I can't maintain the single edge .
It’s called a chisel grind. And they are found mostly on Japanese knives used to cut fish and delicate meat. The theory behind it is when you pull this style edged knife through a delicate meat such as sushi grade fish it cleanly cuts verses tearing, we are talking on a very microscopic scale here.
The reason they want a very clean sharp cut on fish is it will reduce the oxidation that starts immediately upon cutting which they say results in a fresher better taste.
Now if other companies are mimicking this style knife I think it’s mainly a marketing thing or cost reduction.
@@ACutAboveKnifeandLeather Thank you for the reply , the reason I asked was I buy and carry Spyderco knives , and even the ones made in U.S. have this grind , after several sharpenings the back side starts to bevel , I'm unable to free hand maintain the angle , so I bought the K.O. Work sharp , hence why I watched this video , I'm just wanting to keep my knives sharp , as I stated I'm not good at free handing and maintaining the correct angle , maybe this will help , thanks for you time .
Blade scratches on the original attachment can be avoided by using and removing a couple of pieces of blue painters tape for each sharpen. The blade grinder attachment is still totally worth it though. I ran the original for a while bc I just didnt want to spend that much up front.
I actually did this trick for awhile prior to using the blade grinding attachment. I still noticed I got scratches but that is due to the high volume of knives I was sharpening. I was needing to constantly wipe the painters tape off to remove dust that was statically clinging to the surface.
@@ACutAboveKnifeandLeather Agreed, the only way not to get scratches is to put some masking tape on the sides of the knife... Can be very time consuming to protect it properly !
What if you ground the guides would this help keep the static off ?
@jamesadams8572 They're plastic. Not sure how you could ground them.
@@eltonmanzione241alligator clip on a piece of small gauge wire, from the piece to ground. It’s static electricity that’s building up, give it a path to ground.
I just got my WSKO and have observed quite a bit of dust being thrown and deposited on my bench. I'd like to know how you manage the dust please? Are you wearing any PPE? Do you vent your work area?
Yes that is a draw back, I would like to build a vent hood in the future, I wear a N100 half mask and also run a shop filtration unit. At the end of the day I will sweep off my work bench as well
Thanks. How do you compare the Ken Onion to the Work Sharp MK2?
I can not give a comparison as I have not used the MK2. From what I can tell and see it looks to me like the MK2 is an updated version of the original worksharp but not as elite and robust as the Ken onion version. Again only my opinion based on what I have seen
I've watched all the reviews on TH-cam for work sharp ken onion but nobody mentioned what kind of motor is inside of the machinery.
I herd something about 30 hours lifespan motor but probably in work sharp mk2.
Then I had some hope when you said that you've sharpen thousands of knives and you had to replace some parts but then you said that you don't disclose what parts have you replaced...
In my books that didn't smelled right.
I have seen similar comments of other videos saying the motors don’t hold up. I have never had any issues with the motors on the three that I own. The parts that I replaced were on the guided knife sharpening attachment. The piece that the blade rolls across over time the knife cuts into the plastic. It in itself is a consumable part. Other part I replaced was the screw post that holds the belt on when using the blade grinding attachment and the reason being is I lost it.
As far as the motors i routine blown them out with compressed air. The issues I’ve heard others having seem to be that they are trying to use leather belts and this is probably putting too much load on the motor and or they are possibly running the machine at full speed.
I stick to either red label abrasives belts or work sharp belts.
I’m not naive to think they will never fail but I wouldn’t hesitate to replace with another.
The hf 1x30 the belt moves to fast can’t slow it down
That would definitely be a draw back.
thank you for this. do you think cheap knives can handle the polished edge? it would last longer and can handle the beating or is it better to stop at a lower grit?
The polished edge isn’t really affected by the quality of the knife. The most important thing that will result in a more durable edge for a lower quality knife is the angle at which you sharpen the bevels too.
More acute results in a sharp edge but very susceptible to chipping and dulling quickly, more obtuse will result in longer edge retention but less of a refined razor like edge. The polished aspect is the level at which you hone the bevel and trying to remove the micro but that all sharpening creates
@@ACutAboveKnifeandLeather thank you for the feedback. Will play with the angle next time then
Try 25 degree bevels for lower grade steel
short answer work sharp sharpeners are not as easy to sharpen with, people already talk shit on the 1x30's this is an even smaller verison with even more of those problems. however great for a homeowner without a lot of space. I def get looks from my roomates when i pull out the tormak lmao
It’s like anything it takes practice to master. Results speak for themselves
What grit do you normally stop at when it comes to d2?
I don’t treat D2 any differently than the other knives I sharpen.
You will notice it takes a few more passes to create a bur
@@ACutAboveKnifeandLeather sorry I guess I asked that wrong what I mean is what's the best grit to put on d2 I've noticed it's less effective at a mirror polish with a super high grit but when I keep it around 800 grit it keeps it just toothy enough that it last alot longer till needed another sharpen and it cuts way better what's your opinion on this I also carry a bestech Toucan I keep the recurve toothy and the belly part at a mirror polish what would you do in my situation?
Great video! After shopping for a while for my first "real" sharpener, I finally pulled the trigger on the Ken Onion and grinder attachment and am anxiously awaiting its arrival in a few days. Your video confirms my choice. You have a new subscriber. Thanks very much. On a related note, how do you like that Texas Canvas Wares apron you're wearing?
You will not be disappointed it is a great sharpener once you get the feel for it. A tip is to keep your speed slow I actually run on almost the slowest speed to keep the heat down and to not grind to much in one place.
Thank you for the Sub!
Great eye on the apron, I like it a lot, some day I will make my own leather apron but just haven't found the time
Will the blade belt option work on lawn mower blades?
I suppose it would. It would take more time however
I really like this belt sharpener.....But there is no way in heck that anybody can keep a 1/2 degree angle taking the knife from the guide to the belt.
I’d say this is inaccurate and honestly 1/2 degree difference isn’t going to affect the sharpness and durability. After sharpening thousands of knives I have attained muscle memory and can hold a blade pretty darn flat in comparison to the work rest.
I use a work sharp ken onion like these to final sharpen all my knives I sell. The blade grinder attachment model that is. The pull through mechanism is horrible. I wish they made a larger more robust version running 1x42 or so belts.
Whats the name of that scissor sharpener your using?
It is the twice as sharp from Wolfe industries
should I be concerned that one side of the knife is running with the abrasive loop and the other side is running against the travel of the loop? I expect when the blade is drawn against the moving belt, there will be efficient cutting acting than when the blade is on the other side of the angle rest. Is this a problem?
Haven’t found this to be an issue
What do you charge to sharpen knives?
1-4”=$5
4-6”=$6
6-8”=$7
8-12”=$8
Serrated +$2
Pocket knives $5
Hi ow do you sharpen your serrated blades?
I have a video showing the process I use on my channel. Thanks
You can't get a bur on both sides of the blade
When you Apex the blade edge the bur goes from one side to the other as you work the knife on on side then the other.
With the Ken onion before you move from your first belt you want to see that but all the way along your blade on each sides pass
Why would you buy three different units since it is so easy to switch belts? Can’t think of a single good reason.
Time is money. That’s the biggest reason. It may not seem like it takes a lot of time to switch belts but when you are sharpening hundreds of knives that time adds up considerably.
Having three running and just side stepping to the next makes production move very smoothly and allows me to sharpen more customer orders in a single day which in turns allows me to keep my turnaround window very short.
If you look at most professional sharpeners they are running multiple machines for all the reasons I have highlighted above.
For the average home user you don’t need the set up I have.
Nope. I have 3 and use these daily.
Great video do you know of a good kydex sheath maker?
I make kydex sheaths and would like to consider myself good lol
@@ACutAboveKnifeandLeather well that's good to hear all I need now is how to get my knives to you for the sheath's
Email me at ecrisler@acutaboveknifesharpening.com
And I will send you my details for shipping and we can discuss what you are looking for in a sheath build
But whyy do you use the worksharp?
Not at all. I use mine every day for my business. That have paid for themselves 20 times over.
Niiiiiiiiiice! I think you will be interested in Promo-SM!!
How long would you say the belts last
Depending on your progression, steel, and whether it’s a new blade to hit the sharpener or just retouching it, I tend to get 100-150 per belt
Generally I will use one until I notice it not removing the grit priors marks
@@ACutAboveKnifeandLeather I've got another question I was using the worksharp yesterday and a broken o ring came of Is it important for anything because it didn't seem to mess up anything and I have no idea where it came from
It goes on the shaft to add friction to the belt to prevent slipping. I’d contact work sharp they are pretty good about replacing things like that
I bought the Ken Onion and to be honest it really is way overpriced for what you get. I experimented with some different sanding disks on my sander and was pretty much able to duplicate results for less than 10 bucks and easier to grind my mower blades also. Probably going to spend some extra dough and get a wet stone grinder
Might be a good idea to show a finished product and a little of the process. All that is shown here is some guy talking theory with no tangible evidence. Just saying.
If you watch my other videos I go in depth on sharpening and the end result just saying.
This video was not intended as a how to sharpen video just saying.
This video was discussing the Ken onion work sharp with blade grinding attachment just saying.
Sharpening knowledge, blade geometry, blade steel, and techniques are not theories just saying
If this channel isn’t for you then move along and find someone else’s media to follow but please refrain from leaving comments criticizing a creator on topics you either disagree with or don’t have knowledge of.
Just saying