There are two themes in the comments: 1. The Defender is fantastic, you're not driving it right, not the car's fault. 2. The Defender is terrible, stupid electronics. Neither is correct. First off, the Defender was in low range and it should entirely disabled ESC (DSC in Land Rover terms) and engine traction control. It does not. ESC has degrees of sensitivity from fully on, early intervention to fully off. Different Terrain Response modes vary the ESC (DSC) calibration as well as things like throttle response, gearshift points and BTC calibration. The Defender was run with various modes and we found it cuts power in extremis; other commenters have found the same, as have I driving other Land Rover vehicles including my own D3. Even if there was some magic sequence of buttons to entirely disable DSC then it's a usability fail as merely placing the vehicle into low range mud/ruts should allow full throttle authority. You can see the effect of various TR modes on this D5. An L663 equivalent video will follow. th-cam.com/video/oVuehYjKGrE/w-d-xo.html As for #2, well you need to open your eyes. The L663 is an incredible offroad vehicle and has impressive ground clearance and angles, thanks to its independent air suspension. It has limited flex, but that limited flex actually increases its clearance (see th-cam.com/video/sxvuO77wicw/w-d-xo.html for why) and it still gets places thanks to Land Rover's incredible electronics. Finally, Defender fans are not going to like Part 6...
The value of this series regardless of which "team you barrack for" is informing a prospective vehicle purchaser of the appropriateness of a vehicle to match the desired use and for existing owners demonstrating what the potential real-world limits are when using the vehicle. As a new (and previous long-term) Defender owner I understand the passion stirred on both sides but appreciate the usefulness of your work.
Thank again for another valuable video👌🏽Everytime I see Y62 performance and remember that it is at least 10 years older than other competitors, I rise the hat for NISSAN 👍🏽🥇
The Y62 Patrol, too me at least seemed the most composed, less fidgety and better walked its way up the track. All this with not having to depend on complex electronic aids as in the Defender and LC300, only a rear diff LSD with Diff lock. That is a testament to its robust engineering. And its the cheapest to buy by a long margin in this company!
This is an excellent series and should be required viewing for anyone just starting to get into offfroading, whether they have one of these vehs or not. 👍👍
I’ve found that the new Defender can be limited by DSC, so it’s worth trying to turn off at the switch. The terrain response settings also affects its operation. I would try Rock Crawl which locks the centre and rear diffs and keep a steady throttle trying a steady 2000 rpm to start. The Defenders don’t respond well to an on/off throttle technique in my experience, loss of momentum due to this can often result in a failed climb. Using this I’ve climbed some steep ascents with only one wheel having traction. Wheels do leave the ground frequently. Low traction launch can be handy in the right circumstances too. 👍 Great work!
As a new defender owner I can agree the modes are key to success. Stability off, mud/sand works okay to allow for additional wheel spin, but once 20k-30k of active spin is encountered and additional throttle is applied the system will cut the throttle/power. I’ve found it helpful to keep a steady throttle input and do small adjustments as you go. Have successfully done this in sand and mud, and even had some fun in the dunes. This has been a trial and error learning curve for me with the defender. The less traction available, the more sensitive the system seems to be - it really doesn’t want to spin the wheels wildly. Thank you for all you do, really enjoy you content.
Wild wheelspin should be avoided, but sometimes...you need to just send it and that means bouncing, sliding and wheelspin. The car should allow you to do that.
@@L2SFBCI agree, but from a practical standpoint my P400 defender has far too much power/torque for that to be a reality. I’ve climbed huge sand dunes with the engine on the limiter, with zero throttle cut. It works out okay. I do wish it would allow full control, but I does enough the get me where I want to go.
I had the D250 for 2.5 years and never got to the bottom of the new Defender cutting the power when you just need momentum. The reason I was given was that when the new Defender spins it's wheels beyond a certain speed it cuts power to protect itself from damage. My guess would be that this is where LR believe you should be winching, but there isn't always a winch point available. It's one of the reasons I sold it. BTW after selling the vehicle I was told in hi box the power isn't cut, it's only in low box, so you could try locking it in M1 hi box to see if it improves matters.
Another excellent comparison. Fair play to the lad with the Defender, that looked quite sketchy! And another impressive performance by the Patrol. I've found with my Grenadier that while it lacks the more sophisticated TC of eg LR, it easily cedes control to the driver and seems to progress happily at higher revs. Just like an 'old' Defender, but better. Good fun. I have to drive it differently to my last Disco 5, which was great up to the point where it wasn't, when the computer said "no" and it would get stuck. That failed dune was positively dangerous!
Thanks James, seems another example of a Land Rover's computer cutting in just when you don't want them to - this is a consistent theme through the comments, and there are some who say "it's in the wrong mode" - well, we tried several and in low range that should be enough. The Grenadier did not appear to restrict throttle at all, as it shouldn't. The dune wasn't too dangerous, I could stop halfway around and not roll, but I've done steeper where you can't safely stop halfway...I would not trust an LR not to chop my power doing that!
These are great videos Robert. Thank you. I learn something every time I watch. I am sure I am not the only one to wonder what less ‘electronic’ 4x4 would do on the same tracks . … BTW I remember you from PwC around 2001 in Melbourne!
I’ve also read about issues with Grenadier diff locks, which Ineos have attributed to user error. They stated that they need to be turned on (and off) in the correct order and that the warning lights may not extinguish immediately although the lockers have disengaged. I’ve not had an opportunity to try this out myself though.
That is correct. I cover this in the review here which I discussed with INEOS before publication. It is a poor design in my view. th-cam.com/video/KTgupbbRfog/w-d-xo.html
I think that rear locker on the Grenadier is a mechanical Eaton e-locker & it won't engage unless it's rolling and being turned slightly to allow it to mesh. I believe it is the same device as the Harrop E-locker.
Defender has less suspension articulation but more ground clearance due to its suspension being on air and al independent, the grenadiers Diffs were touching the ground on that hill climb
I would point out that ESP/ESC/Stability programs (traction control) is different than EBD. One is for preventing a roll over or losing control at high speeds. EBD is for offroad situations where a locker is not employed. Some manufacturers do a better job of differentiating the jobs of these two systems and throttle will not be reduced in low traction situations.
EBD is electronic brake distribution. It does not mitigate roll over it distributes braking force where it is needed. There are programs which do focus on anti roll.
If lockers doesn't work on a car, that means the lockers were not designed correctly (either its mechanical or electrical system including the software), and that's a negative point for that specific car. IMO, there's no need to limit other cars because of a fault in one of them. That's part of the 'test'.
I tested an Ineos last year and it had really temperamental locker engagement both ends... Ineos excuse was it was final prototype and still a bit buggy. Some owners on groups report really early cars suffered similar intermittent fault but a recent software update has cured many of the gremlins. Perhaps this Grenadier was a very early build?
Wrangler Rubicon would have gone up this like it was going to the shops to get milk. Theres no substitute for a ladder frame coil sprung solid axle 4x4 twin locked with sway bar disconnect. Grenadier is nearly there, the aftermarket just needs to come up with some quick release swaybar disconnect links
This is exactly why I went from an LR4 (and I had the rear locker version) to a Rubicon. These mode operated four wheel drive systems can be very good, especially when you learn how to continuously apply at least some throttle so that the computer can figure out what is going on and make all the corrections continuously, in light to moderate offroading. But push them into more serious situations and there are always issues with them taking over at the worst possible moment. And even in light to moderate scenarios as a driver you are faffing about a lot which becomes quite tiresome after a while. If a vehicle is serious about being an offroader to the full extent, it has to allow all of these things except BTC to be disabled and, ideally, also have front and rear axle lockers that are selectable by the driver with no BTC at all. And of course the other thing is articulation. And as the Land Rover demonstrated this is less about maintaining traction, as many modern TCSs can maintain wheel spin with a wheel in the air, especially with consistent throttle applied allowing the computer to calculate properly, but rather is about safety as trails get more extreme. Quite simply wheels off the ground is the quickest way to a rollover. It’s kind of ironic actually- these electronic TCS, air sus vehicles make easy tracks and light offroading simple for the inexperienced offroader- and as this is what 90% of people will do offroad open up offroading to more people. But as soon as you push them into harder stuff, they make offroading more difficult. And of course they also have so many more failure points that are usually the kind that are not trail side repairable, just increasing the odds of the veh leaving you stranded (the air sus on an LR4 having an issue and dropping to bump stops and also killing your ability to access the offroad modes is my very real and personal experience example). I loved my LR4 and it got me all the places I wanted to go for a long time, but as I began to push it into harder stuff I just got tired of fighting my own veh. I just wanted to be in charge of the decision making and not the car and not be wasting all this time. And also, because I solo a lot, I was nervous about a breakdown leaving me stranded. There were just too many electronics that the veh was reliant upon that any failure and I’d be screwed; and those can’t be fixed trailside. With the Rubicon I just selected the lift for my style wheeling and it’s just Hi or Lo (and with Lo being looooowwww), axle lockers yes or no, and driver skill. The way I like it. Oh, and solid axles, because again, as you push these onto harder trails, IFS or full indy sus breakages become real problems.
If you look at all the tye vehicles here it seems they all have pro's and con"s in this comparison. I still believe that they will do the job that their predecessors did and the tech and style added had to be done to keep up with what majority modern buyers want.
Though I’m certainly not ignorant or adverse to tech. I do think that all these drive modes are a gimmick, especially for the more experienced drivers. BTC ✅ Down hill assist ✅ Lockers ✅ Sway bar disconnect ✅ Multi terrain select ❌ The Rubi has the above ticks. I have never thought “Man I wish I had multi terrain select”. I get that other cars may be more reliant on such systems, however, an efficient BTC system where ESC is automatically disabled in low range and disable-able in high, is all you need and want. And the BTC has to work with the rear locker on… personally, I have never seen a situation where this is a good idea. All of my Hilux and Prado mates always go better with the rear locker off.
Tend to agree, but LR's TR system really is very good. The Toyota BTC is so good the rear locker is almost never needed. This is not the case for other vehicles eg older Rangers like mine.
@@L2SFBC I think the systems work as intended by the designers and engineers. Certainly in controlled test conditions. But in the real world, they just seem to cause confusion and frustration for owners and then when add in other factors, 20 inch rims, winches that are near impossible to use because where they’ve been mounted, auto handbrakes etc etc. It’s no wonder few 4wders choose such a vehicle for general off-road use. Even mates I know with up spec LCs with drive modes spend quite a lot of time stopped trying to work out drive modes, and their mates can’t really help because they aren’t familiar with the menus etc. It would probably be less of an issue if they took it wheeling every weekend. But those people tend not to in my experience.
Lol. You are me exactly. And it is exactly why I went from an LR4 (and I had the rear locker version) to a Rubicon. These mode operated four wheel drive systems can be very good, especially when you learn how to continuously apply at least some throttle so that the computer can figure out what is going on and make all the corrections continuously, in light to moderate offroading. But push them into more serious situations and there are always issues with them taking over at the worst possible moment. And even in light to moderate scenarios as a driver you are faffing about a lot which becomes quite tiresome after a while. If a vehicle is serious about being an offroader to the full extent, it has to allow all of these things except BTC to be disabled and, ideally, also have front and rear axle lockers that are selectable by the driver with no BTC at all. And of course the other thing is articulation. And as the Land Rover demonstrated this is less about maintaining traction, as many modern TCSs can maintain wheel spin with a wheel in the air, especially with consistent throttle applied allowing the computer to calculate properly, but rather is about safety as trails get more extreme. Quite simply wheels off the ground is the quickest way to a rollover. It’s kind of ironic actually- these electronic TCS, air sus vehicles make easy tracks and light offroading simple for the inexperienced offroader- and as this what 90% of people will do offroad open up offroading to more people. But as soon as you push them into harder stuff, they make offroading more difficult. And of course they also have so many more failure points that are usually the kind that are not trail side repairable, just increasing the odds of the veh leaving you stranded (the air sus on an LR4 having an issue and dropping to bump stops and also killing your ability to access the offroad modes is my very real and personal experience example). I loved my LR4 and it got me all the places I wanted to go for a long time, but as I began to push it into harder stuff ai just got tired of fighting my own veh. I just wanted to be in charge if the decision making and not the car and not be wasting all this time. And also, because I solo a lot, I was nervous about a breakdown leaving me stranded. There were just too many electronics that the veh was reliant upon that any failure and I’d be screwed; and those can’t be fixed trailside. With the Rubicon I just selected the lift for my wheeling and it’s just Hi or Lo (and with Lo being looooowwww), axle lockers yes or no, and driver skill. The way I like it. Oh, and solid axles, because again, as you push these onto harder trails, IFS or full indy sus failures become real problems.
@@L2SFBC Robert. Another real work massive factor seems to be loads and mods. I’ve found that loads, especially where the COG differs from the factory specs and the added weight of mods, plays havoc with BTC. I suspect because, a heavier vehicle will need more throttle input to move the vehicle and thus the brakes need to work harder to stop the unloaded wheel spinning freely. I’ve found the BTC less efficient than from factory. It would be interesting to see a new defender loaded right up with touring mods/touring loads to see how it compares to an empty stock one. I’m personally very anal about where I place loads in my vehicle. Being cargo seems to orient towards the rear, I’m always trying to shift heavy loads low, and as far forward as possible. I think I really heaps stability and capability. (Race driver in me coming out) lol
Hey mate, great series and would love to see more as these were the exact vehicles I'm comparing for my next purchase. Can you please leave a touch of time at the end of each video to give you a thumbs up or just say it in closing?
@@L2SFBC Your conclusion is good but could you leave a bit of time after it as its not quite enough time to hit the like button before the next clip starts.
You guys are awesome with this content. Welll done. Defender owners, has any tried to tune their defender to have the restriction of ESC removed when you entering low range? Won’t that effectively solve the issue of it interfering off road 🤔
Sell it and buy a proper off road vehicle! You could see that the shite pommie built pretender had wheels hanging…limited travel IFS AND IRS suspension airbags all tight showing what a heap of junk they are! 😂🤣 Trash! 🤣
I encountered this DSC issue with our Discovery 3 a couple of weeks ago, when I was driving it on some rough tracks with Land Rover Expereicne Scotland (they do an annual winter event which includes some trails as well as their off-road centre - brilliant fun). At one point there's a tight corner with a loose muddy/gravel surface which also creates a situation where diagonally-opposed wheels leave the ground where it's been washed away. It's also directly in between two terrain response settings, and so an utter pain in terms of system calibration. Halfway around the corner, even though DSC was switched off, it braked the two wheels as expected, but as it started to slide, DSC still kicked in (albeit at a reduced level), and cut the power to such an extent it refused to move altogether. I had to sheepishly reverse out, and I found, of all settings, Sand mode with DSC switched off and the throttle nailed just about got the vehicle around the corner. Now the same corner the year before, this time adding ice and snow into the mix, I had no problems in my Series III with simple brain operated traction control. Why? I'm guessing it's because I had nothing to override the throttle. It's a shame because, even though our Discovery 3 doesn't have the electronic rear differential (hardly any do here in the UK), the traction control system is superb and nearly as good as the Defender. Not quite as good though, that was a bit smoother and responsive, traction control wise.
Perfect example thanks! The car would know the steering wheel is turned and therefore reduce the allowable throttle, essentially putting its own well-being ahead of the driver's commands. This was my problem on the dune in the D4. A little tip; if you can manage to be opening the steering whilst applying throttle then the ESC systems are less likely to restrict power. But, it's still intensely annoying and classic modern Land Rover behaviour. I think it's dangerous and therefore shameful. If the car can't do something then okay, but you NEVER want it actively working against you and that's what modern Land Rovers do in extremis. I think INEOS got that right with the Grenadier, as do the Toyota and Nissan.
@@L2SFBC It's not the first time I've encountered it; muddy ruts in Zambia (in the very same car incidentally) where it was also bellying out in the soft mud also caused the same issue. All of these electronic devices are marvellous and make these vehicles go places they really shouldn't, but particularly with Land Rover products, you either have no wheel spin or no drive at all, and when they get really confused they get REALLY stuck. Zambia for me was a perfect example of that, because in that situation there was no workaround.
I don't think it's so much confused, the engineers just decide to put the car's well-being ahead of the driver's request. So many times I have thought "I'd like to see these engineers with me now" not just in Land Rovers, but other vehicles too. It's not every day this sort of thing happens, but when it happens...it's a problem. Another video in this series will highlight another Land Rover shortcoming on hills.
Defender should have been in Mud/Ruts mode. And possibly turn off the TCS. Also don’t need left foot brake on it as the Hill Start assist (GRC) will hold it til you punch the throttle.
Hi Robert, great content and subject matter. Regarding Land Rover Defender.....do you think that pulling the fuse for the anti lock brake system would disable the traction control "throttle cut out" and allow you to have full throttle (or just throttle) when you actually needed it? Also something to look at is where and how easy it is to disconnect the steering wheel angle sensor. Doing one or both could put the ESC into the drivers hands while off road and allow throttle inputs as needed. We found that on the C5 Corvette, you could hit "Ice Mode" on a dry track under hard braking where the car thinks it hit an ice patch and just gives you a hard pedal but allows the tires to rotate....essentially no brakes. You have to immediately release the brakes and reapply them to get the brakes to work....definitely a pucker factor when diving into a corner. One way to avoid this is simply unplugging the steering wheel angle sensor since killing the anti lock brakes by pulling the fuse may not be the best idea for track use. But off road in low range and with a common sense mind I feel you can get by without anti lock brakes. Maybe an interesting experiment to try with the Defender.
hi - disabling something like ABS would disable all the electronics, and the Defender would become useless. It absolutely relies on electronics to have any offroad capability, in contrast to say the other three vehicles which have lockable centre diffs and decent flex, not computer-controlled. There is no way to disable just ESC on it. "Ice mode" is/was a problem also on the Nissan 370Z for similar reasons. Electronics are not always good...
Hi Rob - it would be interesting to see if you can get an official response from Land Rover engineering HQ. Surely they can reprogram the software over the air so that ‘DSC off’ really does mean ‘off’. Can’t be that hard, even if you have to press a disclaimer button to absolve them of potential drivetrain damage, I’d still rather have full and uninterrupted power when I really need it.
ha that's exactly what I've proposed for years! but we are edge cases so it won't happen, and it seems JLR is more interested in lifestyle events and fragrances than ceding control of their cars to the owners. I doubt I could get any response that would be meaningful, probably just a "we optimise our cars..." etc. Their business model is their own call, and I'm not going to say it's wrong, but it's not aligned with what I do.
Interesting and well presented Robert. The Dynamic Stability Control (DSC) in the Defender can be selectively switched off in all off-road modes except Auto terrain response. Am I correct in understanding that is still operating to some extent?
Yes parts of it appear to still be active. ESC has levels of sensitivity - in road modes it will interven early and permit little slip. In offroad modes it will allow more slip. However, if it is not entirely off, eventually its limits will be reached and it will activate. Pressing the "off" button doesn't necessarily mean switching if off like a lightbulb. Different TR modes have different calibrations for ESC (or DSC in Land Rover terms) and you can reduce it even more with the Off switch. In sand for example, I would run Sand mode (most of the time) and DSC additionally off as far as it'd let me.
I’ve found that the new Defender can be limited by DSC, so it’s worth trying to turn off at the switch. The terrain response settings also affects its operation. I would try Rock Crawl which locks the centre and rear diffs and keep a steady throttle trying a steady 2000 rpm to start. The Defenders don’t respond well to an on/off throttle technique in my experience, loss of momentum due to this can often result in a failed climb. Using this I’ve climbed some steep ascents with only one wheel having traction. Wheels do leave the ground frequently. Low traction launch can be handy in the right circumstances too. 👍 Great work!
I’ve found that the new Defender can be limited by DSC, so it’s worth trying to turn off at the switch. The terrain response settings also affects its operation. I would try Rock Crawl which locks the centre and rear diffs and keep a steady throttle trying a steady 2000 rpm to start. The Defenders don’t respond well to an on/off throttle technique in my experience, loss of momentum due to this can often result in a failed climb. Using this I’ve climbed some steep ascents with only one wheel having traction. Wheels do leave the ground frequently. Low traction launch can be handy in the right circumstances too. 👍 Great work!
The Y62 is awesome off road in rutty sandy wombat holes, leave the second best vehicle (the Y61) for dust. Surprising for such a big vehicle with independent suspension. I think it gets it's advantage from a longer wheelbase than all the other vehicles that dig the wombat holes and the excellent flex keeping the massive tyres on the ground.
On the Defender it's not ESC, you have DSC which can be turned off with the press of a button with all of the off-road driving modes with the exception of AUTO. Owning an L663 and becoming very familiar with its off-road driving style likely would have fixed the vehicle from cutting power going up the hill.
Defender was in the wrong mode for the terrain. Also you have to do one of 2 things with it, momentum in the right mode, or crawl and let it do the things it thinnks it needs to to get forward motion, as long as it doesn't massively belly, it should do the hill. Be aware that it might take a little while to go into extended mode on the EAS, Like the P38 and on, it's not user selectable so it's something it has to do. Like a lot of modern vehicles with mode selection, if the user selects wrong, then the vehicle will not perform optimally. For that hill I'd have selected "mud and ruts".
Again the terms of "oversteer" and "understeer" used incorrectly as the car in the manufacturer video is skidding not understeering or oversteering, it will do one or the other it is impossible for then to do both as it's down to steering and suspension geometry not other forces applied to the vehicle. You cannot define whether a vehicle over or under steers if the vehicle is in a skid. Over or uner or neutral steer can only be calculated when all wheels have full traction. Here is an example that most will understand, a vehicle with a locker engaged will tend to understeer because the locked front axle is trying to keep the vehicle travelling in a straight line. Another example is when the steering rack is in front of the axle, the outer wheel is pulled in greater than the arc for the correct track, so the vehicle actually turns tighter than the average arc of both wheels, that is oversteer. If the tracking is too far toe out, the vehicle will understeer, if it is too far toe in it will oversteer. anything else is a skid and should be treated as such in theory and practicals as it teaches you to drive better.
It was in mud ruts. Different modes were tried. However no special mode selection should be necessary if the car is in low range it should not have ESC enabled regardless of mode.
I honestly don't think I could be happy owning a vehicle like this . These systems do work. However, it's simply just software trying to replicate hardware and seems to provide inconsistent performance, making the car feel like it's broken. Is it misfiring, or is it just cutting power? Just give me a simple vehicle with good suspension and a solid drivetrain so I have consistent performance, and I will be happy and focus more on gaining skills rather than pushing buttons on a touchscreen trying to find what is the best mode.
I agree to a large extent. I would like a vehicle which has a solid foundation of mechanical-only, augmented by electronics. The LC300 embodies this well - with no electronics at all, I could certainly still get places in it, but with, it is amazing. The Defender is the opposite, without electronics, it is nothing.
You can do everything in that video in the patrol with out using any of the driving programmes. Just leave it in normal on road mode, lock it in, decide wether you need low or high range, into drive then go. The patrol is only one of a few vehicles that also still has active traction control in the front if you have rear locker engaged. That 300 series is the gr so it has lockers front and back if required. Also the drivers in this video need to learn how to use throttle control so they maintain momentum and also let the traction control do its thing.
No one out there who hates the defender is doubting the off-road capabilities… the car ist superb… the haters hate it because of the lack of reliability when you are out in the bush.
The more I watch those pretenders off road the more I detest the terrible damn things!! Land Rover lost their sense of direction for sure! Those vehicles are purely rubbish!!
Have you actually driven one or are just one of those people I just laugh at cause they really don't have any idea? I have one and taken it up far worse than what is shown in these videos in both wet and dry conditions. The only problem I have had is a slow leak from the factory tyres, and that was fixed by buying some decent LT tyres, which I think just about every new 4x4 has the same issue. Every 4x4 I have owned since the late 80's has required me to relearn the best way to drive it offroad, and guess what the new Defender is no different and it has been a steep learning curve. I have not had the problem yet with losing power driving up rock faces or wet badly rutted and slippery muddy tracks worse than the one in this video, so I am not sure why this Defender does this, but so far mine has not, and I have driven up places in it that other vehicles struggled to drive up.
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There are two themes in the comments:
1. The Defender is fantastic, you're not driving it right, not the car's fault.
2. The Defender is terrible, stupid electronics.
Neither is correct. First off, the Defender was in low range and it should entirely disabled ESC (DSC in Land Rover terms) and engine traction control. It does not. ESC has degrees of sensitivity from fully on, early intervention to fully off. Different Terrain Response modes vary the ESC (DSC) calibration as well as things like throttle response, gearshift points and BTC calibration. The Defender was run with various modes and we found it cuts power in extremis; other commenters have found the same, as have I driving other Land Rover vehicles including my own D3. Even if there was some magic sequence of buttons to entirely disable DSC then it's a usability fail as merely placing the vehicle into low range mud/ruts should allow full throttle authority.
You can see the effect of various TR modes on this D5. An L663 equivalent video will follow. th-cam.com/video/oVuehYjKGrE/w-d-xo.html
As for #2, well you need to open your eyes. The L663 is an incredible offroad vehicle and has impressive ground clearance and angles, thanks to its independent air suspension. It has limited flex, but that limited flex actually increases its clearance (see th-cam.com/video/sxvuO77wicw/w-d-xo.html for why) and it still gets places thanks to Land Rover's incredible electronics.
Finally, Defender fans are not going to like Part 6...
The value of this series regardless of which "team you barrack for" is informing a prospective vehicle purchaser of the appropriateness of a vehicle to match the desired use and for existing owners demonstrating what the potential real-world limits are when using the vehicle. As a new (and previous long-term) Defender owner I understand the passion stirred on both sides but appreciate the usefulness of your work.
Yes that defender suspension is amazing. It’s also amazingly scary that if it fails, airbag, compressor or electronics it’s game over.
Thank again for another valuable video👌🏽Everytime I see Y62 performance and remember that it is at least 10 years older than other competitors, I rise the hat for NISSAN 👍🏽🥇
Educational and informative as usual.
Glad you enjoyed it
@@L2SFBC definitely am. I. Also picking up tips for my Grenadier.
The Y62 Patrol, too me at least seemed the most composed, less fidgety and better walked its way up the track. All this with not having to depend on complex electronic aids as in the Defender and LC300, only a rear diff LSD with Diff lock. That is a testament to its robust engineering. And its the cheapest to buy by a long margin in this company!
This is an excellent series and should be required viewing for anyone just starting to get into offfroading, whether they have one of these vehs or not. 👍👍
Again a very informative no nonsense video, I love this stuff, been thinking about buying the Grenadier ute
I’ve found that the new Defender can be limited by DSC, so it’s worth trying to turn off at the switch. The terrain response settings also affects its operation. I would try Rock Crawl which locks the centre and rear diffs and keep a steady throttle trying a steady 2000 rpm to start. The Defenders don’t respond well to an on/off throttle technique in my experience, loss of momentum due to this can often result in a failed climb. Using this I’ve climbed some steep ascents with only one wheel having traction. Wheels do leave the ground frequently. Low traction launch can be handy in the right circumstances too. 👍 Great work!
As a new defender owner I can agree the modes are key to success. Stability off, mud/sand works okay to allow for additional wheel spin, but once 20k-30k of active spin is encountered and additional throttle is applied the system will cut the throttle/power. I’ve found it helpful to keep a steady throttle input and do small adjustments as you go. Have successfully done this in sand and mud, and even had some fun in the dunes. This has been a trial and error learning curve for me with the defender. The less traction available, the more sensitive the system seems to be - it really doesn’t want to spin the wheels wildly.
Thank you for all you do, really enjoy you content.
Wild wheelspin should be avoided, but sometimes...you need to just send it and that means bouncing, sliding and wheelspin. The car should allow you to do that.
@@L2SFBCI agree, but from a practical standpoint my P400 defender has far too much power/torque for that to be a reality. I’ve climbed huge sand dunes with the engine on the limiter, with zero throttle cut. It works out okay. I do wish it would allow full control, but I does enough the get me where I want to go.
If you're getting 20-30k "wheel spin" then you have a whole new set of problems!
I had the D250 for 2.5 years and never got to the bottom of the new Defender cutting the power when you just need momentum. The reason I was given was that when the new Defender spins it's wheels beyond a certain speed it cuts power to protect itself from damage. My guess would be that this is where LR believe you should be winching, but there isn't always a winch point available. It's one of the reasons I sold it. BTW after selling the vehicle I was told in hi box the power isn't cut, it's only in low box, so you could try locking it in M1 hi box to see if it improves matters.
Not doing that hill in high range! And typically ESC is disabled in low range...odd Land Rover see fit not to
Another excellent comparison. Fair play to the lad with the Defender, that looked quite sketchy! And another impressive performance by the Patrol. I've found with my Grenadier that while it lacks the more sophisticated TC of eg LR, it easily cedes control to the driver and seems to progress happily at higher revs. Just like an 'old' Defender, but better. Good fun. I have to drive it differently to my last Disco 5, which was great up to the point where it wasn't, when the computer said "no" and it would get stuck. That failed dune was positively dangerous!
Thanks James, seems another example of a Land Rover's computer cutting in just when you don't want them to - this is a consistent theme through the comments, and there are some who say "it's in the wrong mode" - well, we tried several and in low range that should be enough. The Grenadier did not appear to restrict throttle at all, as it shouldn't. The dune wasn't too dangerous, I could stop halfway around and not roll, but I've done steeper where you can't safely stop halfway...I would not trust an LR not to chop my power doing that!
Ha ha, well I suppose the computer stopped it spinning up the downslope wheels and sending you on a roll!@@L2SFBC
These are great videos Robert. Thank you. I learn something every time I watch. I am sure I am not the only one to wonder what less ‘electronic’ 4x4 would do on the same tracks . …
BTW I remember you from PwC around 2001 in Melbourne!
Y62 impressed again
As usual great source of truth. Well done mate
Much appreciated
I’ll never have a vehicle this new but it’s still interesting content
excellent video's, thank you!
You are welcome!
I’ve also read about issues with Grenadier diff locks, which Ineos have attributed to user error. They stated that they need to be turned on (and off) in the correct order and that the warning lights may not extinguish immediately although the lockers have disengaged. I’ve not had an opportunity to try this out myself though.
That is correct. I cover this in the review here which I discussed with INEOS before publication. It is a poor design in my view. th-cam.com/video/KTgupbbRfog/w-d-xo.html
I think that rear locker on the Grenadier is a mechanical Eaton e-locker & it won't engage unless it's rolling and being turned slightly to allow it to mesh.
I believe it is the same device as the Harrop E-locker.
That's right. They dont know the car and still doing the test 😂
The Grenadier had an electronic problem and stopped engaging its lockers. They came back later on.
Things have got a lot more complicated since the Leyland Brothers waltzed up that hill ;
very good sir
Defender has less suspension articulation but more ground clearance due to its suspension being on air and al independent, the grenadiers Diffs were touching the ground on that hill climb
"We're getting an 'Error' message" ...
I don't know about these bloody smartphones on wheels posing as 4x4s ...
Always bring a JLUR as the standard by which every other POS SUV can be measured.
I would point out that ESP/ESC/Stability programs (traction control) is different than EBD. One is for preventing a roll over or losing control at high speeds. EBD is for offroad situations where a locker is not employed. Some manufacturers do a better job of differentiating the jobs of these two systems and throttle will not be reduced in low traction situations.
EBD is electronic brake distribution. It does not mitigate roll over it distributes braking force where it is needed. There are programs which do focus on anti roll.
@@L2SFBC That's what my comment says. They are two different systems and the separation of those two make for a better offroad experience.
If lockers doesn't work on a car, that means the lockers were not designed correctly (either its mechanical or electrical system including the software), and that's a negative point for that specific car. IMO, there's no need to limit other cars because of a fault in one of them. That's part of the 'test'.
Look at the other videos in this series.
I tested an Ineos last year and it had really temperamental locker engagement both ends... Ineos excuse was it was final prototype and still a bit buggy.
Some owners on groups report really early cars suffered similar intermittent fault but a recent software update has cured many of the gremlins. Perhaps this Grenadier was a very early build?
The locker problem is explained here. Checked with INEOS before publication. th-cam.com/video/KTgupbbRfog/w-d-xo.html
Would love to see you do the same tests with utes. Ranger Raptor especially.
A good idea!
Gearbox and locker is the big point during going offroad with faster momentum, the New mitsubishi triton 2024 very good for doing offroad
Wrangler Rubicon would have gone up this like it was going to the shops to get milk. Theres no substitute for a ladder frame coil sprung solid axle 4x4 twin locked with sway bar disconnect.
Grenadier is nearly there, the aftermarket just needs to come up with some quick release swaybar disconnect links
This is exactly why I went from an LR4 (and I had the rear locker version) to a Rubicon. These mode operated four wheel drive systems can be very good, especially when you learn how to continuously apply at least some throttle so that the computer can figure out what is going on and make all the corrections continuously, in light to moderate offroading. But push them into more serious situations and there are always issues with them taking over at the worst possible moment. And even in light to moderate scenarios as a driver you are faffing about a lot which becomes quite tiresome after a while. If a vehicle is serious about being an offroader to the full extent, it has to allow all of these things except BTC to be disabled and, ideally, also have front and rear axle lockers that are selectable by the driver with no BTC at all. And of course the other thing is articulation. And as the Land Rover demonstrated this is less about maintaining traction, as many modern TCSs can maintain wheel spin with a wheel in the air, especially with consistent throttle applied allowing the computer to calculate properly, but rather is about safety as trails get more extreme. Quite simply wheels off the ground is the quickest way to a rollover. It’s kind of ironic actually- these electronic TCS, air sus vehicles make easy tracks and light offroading simple for the inexperienced offroader- and as this is what 90% of people will do offroad open up offroading to more people. But as soon as you push them into harder stuff, they make offroading more difficult. And of course they also have so many more failure points that are usually the kind that are not trail side repairable, just increasing the odds of the veh leaving you stranded (the air sus on an LR4 having an issue and dropping to bump stops and also killing your ability to access the offroad modes is my very real and personal experience example). I loved my LR4 and it got me all the places I wanted to go for a long time, but as I began to push it into harder stuff I just got tired of fighting my own veh. I just wanted to be in charge of the decision making and not the car and not be wasting all this time. And also, because I solo a lot, I was nervous about a breakdown leaving me stranded. There were just too many electronics that the veh was reliant upon that any failure and I’d be screwed; and those can’t be fixed trailside. With the Rubicon I just selected the lift for my style wheeling and it’s just Hi or Lo (and with Lo being looooowwww), axle lockers yes or no, and driver skill. The way I like it. Oh, and solid axles, because again, as you push these onto harder trails, IFS or full indy sus breakages become real problems.
Can't argue with any of that good comment!
If you look at all the tye vehicles here it seems they all have pro's and con"s in this comparison. I still believe that they will do the job that their predecessors did and the tech and style added had to be done to keep up with what majority modern buyers want.
Very true!
Though I’m certainly not ignorant or adverse to tech. I do think that all these drive modes are a gimmick, especially for the more experienced drivers.
BTC ✅
Down hill assist ✅
Lockers ✅
Sway bar disconnect ✅
Multi terrain select ❌
The Rubi has the above ticks. I have never thought “Man I wish I had multi terrain select”.
I get that other cars may be more reliant on such systems, however, an efficient BTC system where ESC is automatically disabled in low range and disable-able in high, is all you need and want. And the BTC has to work with the rear locker on… personally, I have never seen a situation where this is a good idea. All of my Hilux and Prado mates always go better with the rear locker off.
Tend to agree, but LR's TR system really is very good. The Toyota BTC is so good the rear locker is almost never needed. This is not the case for other vehicles eg older Rangers like mine.
@@L2SFBC I think the systems work as intended by the designers and engineers. Certainly in controlled test conditions. But in the real world, they just seem to cause confusion and frustration for owners and then when add in other factors, 20 inch rims, winches that are near impossible to use because where they’ve been mounted, auto handbrakes etc etc. It’s no wonder few 4wders choose such a vehicle for general off-road use. Even mates I know with up spec LCs with drive modes spend quite a lot of time stopped trying to work out drive modes, and their mates can’t really help because they aren’t familiar with the menus etc. It would probably be less of an issue if they took it wheeling every weekend. But those people tend not to in my experience.
Very fair comments
Lol. You are me exactly. And it is exactly why I went from an LR4 (and I had the rear locker version) to a Rubicon. These mode operated four wheel drive systems can be very good, especially when you learn how to continuously apply at least some throttle so that the computer can figure out what is going on and make all the corrections continuously, in light to moderate offroading. But push them into more serious situations and there are always issues with them taking over at the worst possible moment. And even in light to moderate scenarios as a driver you are faffing about a lot which becomes quite tiresome after a while. If a vehicle is serious about being an offroader to the full extent, it has to allow all of these things except BTC to be disabled and, ideally, also have front and rear axle lockers that are selectable by the driver with no BTC at all. And of course the other thing is articulation. And as the Land Rover demonstrated this is less about maintaining traction, as many modern TCSs can maintain wheel spin with a wheel in the air, especially with consistent throttle applied allowing the computer to calculate properly, but rather is about safety as trails get more extreme. Quite simply wheels off the ground is the quickest way to a rollover. It’s kind of ironic actually- these electronic TCS, air sus vehicles make easy tracks and light offroading simple for the inexperienced offroader- and as this what 90% of people will do offroad open up offroading to more people. But as soon as you push them into harder stuff, they make offroading more difficult. And of course they also have so many more failure points that are usually the kind that are not trail side repairable, just increasing the odds of the veh leaving you stranded (the air sus on an LR4 having an issue and dropping to bump stops and also killing your ability to access the offroad modes is my very real and personal experience example). I loved my LR4 and it got me all the places I wanted to go for a long time, but as I began to push it into harder stuff ai just got tired of fighting my own veh. I just wanted to be in charge if the decision making and not the car and not be wasting all this time. And also, because I solo a lot, I was nervous about a breakdown leaving me stranded. There were just too many electronics that the veh was reliant upon that any failure and I’d be screwed; and those can’t be fixed trailside. With the Rubicon I just selected the lift for my wheeling and it’s just Hi or Lo (and with Lo being looooowwww), axle lockers yes or no, and driver skill. The way I like it. Oh, and solid axles, because again, as you push these onto harder trails, IFS or full indy sus failures become real problems.
@@L2SFBC Robert. Another real work massive factor seems to be loads and mods. I’ve found that loads, especially where the COG differs from the factory specs and the added weight of mods, plays havoc with BTC. I suspect because, a heavier vehicle will need more throttle input to move the vehicle and thus the brakes need to work harder to stop the unloaded wheel spinning freely. I’ve found the BTC less efficient than from factory. It would be interesting to see a new defender loaded right up with touring mods/touring loads to see how it compares to an empty stock one. I’m personally very anal about where I place loads in my vehicle. Being cargo seems to orient towards the rear, I’m always trying to shift heavy loads low, and as far forward as possible. I think I really heaps stability and capability. (Race driver in me coming out) lol
Hey mate, great series and would love to see more as these were the exact vehicles I'm comparing for my next purchase. Can you please leave a touch of time at the end of each video to give you a thumbs up or just say it in closing?
Thanks, but I don't quite understand your request?
@@L2SFBC Your conclusion is good but could you leave a bit of time after it as its not quite enough time to hit the like button before the next clip starts.
ah ok thanks
You guys are awesome with this content. Welll done.
Defender owners, has any tried to tune their defender to have the restriction of ESC removed when you entering low range? Won’t that effectively solve the issue of it interfering off road 🤔
Sell it and buy a proper off road vehicle!
You could see that the shite pommie built pretender had wheels hanging…limited travel IFS AND IRS suspension airbags all tight showing what a heap of junk they are! 😂🤣
Trash! 🤣
I encountered this DSC issue with our Discovery 3 a couple of weeks ago, when I was driving it on some rough tracks with Land Rover Expereicne Scotland (they do an annual winter event which includes some trails as well as their off-road centre - brilliant fun). At one point there's a tight corner with a loose muddy/gravel surface which also creates a situation where diagonally-opposed wheels leave the ground where it's been washed away. It's also directly in between two terrain response settings, and so an utter pain in terms of system calibration.
Halfway around the corner, even though DSC was switched off, it braked the two wheels as expected, but as it started to slide, DSC still kicked in (albeit at a reduced level), and cut the power to such an extent it refused to move altogether. I had to sheepishly reverse out, and I found, of all settings, Sand mode with DSC switched off and the throttle nailed just about got the vehicle around the corner. Now the same corner the year before, this time adding ice and snow into the mix, I had no problems in my Series III with simple brain operated traction control. Why? I'm guessing it's because I had nothing to override the throttle.
It's a shame because, even though our Discovery 3 doesn't have the electronic rear differential (hardly any do here in the UK), the traction control system is superb and nearly as good as the Defender. Not quite as good though, that was a bit smoother and responsive, traction control wise.
Perfect example thanks! The car would know the steering wheel is turned and therefore reduce the allowable throttle, essentially putting its own well-being ahead of the driver's commands. This was my problem on the dune in the D4. A little tip; if you can manage to be opening the steering whilst applying throttle then the ESC systems are less likely to restrict power. But, it's still intensely annoying and classic modern Land Rover behaviour. I think it's dangerous and therefore shameful. If the car can't do something then okay, but you NEVER want it actively working against you and that's what modern Land Rovers do in extremis. I think INEOS got that right with the Grenadier, as do the Toyota and Nissan.
@@L2SFBC It's not the first time I've encountered it; muddy ruts in Zambia (in the very same car incidentally) where it was also bellying out in the soft mud also caused the same issue. All of these electronic devices are marvellous and make these vehicles go places they really shouldn't, but particularly with Land Rover products, you either have no wheel spin or no drive at all, and when they get really confused they get REALLY stuck. Zambia for me was a perfect example of that, because in that situation there was no workaround.
I don't think it's so much confused, the engineers just decide to put the car's well-being ahead of the driver's request. So many times I have thought "I'd like to see these engineers with me now" not just in Land Rovers, but other vehicles too. It's not every day this sort of thing happens, but when it happens...it's a problem. Another video in this series will highlight another Land Rover shortcoming on hills.
Intereted to know what the LRE instructors say. If they understood, and had to follow the company line, or if they simply didn't comprehend.
also your Series vehicle would have no BTC, so interesting it worked better than D3 + BTC - DSC.
Defender should have been in Mud/Ruts mode. And possibly turn off the TCS.
Also don’t need left foot brake on it as the Hill Start assist (GRC) will hold it til you punch the throttle.
Hi Robert, great content and subject matter. Regarding Land Rover Defender.....do you think that pulling the fuse for the anti lock brake system would disable the traction control "throttle cut out" and allow you to have full throttle (or just throttle) when you actually needed it? Also something to look at is where and how easy it is to disconnect the steering wheel angle sensor. Doing one or both could put the ESC into the drivers hands while off road and allow throttle inputs as needed.
We found that on the C5 Corvette, you could hit "Ice Mode" on a dry track under hard braking where the car thinks it hit an ice patch and just gives you a hard pedal but allows the tires to rotate....essentially no brakes. You have to immediately release the brakes and reapply them to get the brakes to work....definitely a pucker factor when diving into a corner. One way to avoid this is simply unplugging the steering wheel angle sensor since killing the anti lock brakes by pulling the fuse may not be the best idea for track use. But off road in low range and with a common sense mind I feel you can get by without anti lock brakes.
Maybe an interesting experiment to try with the Defender.
hi - disabling something like ABS would disable all the electronics, and the Defender would become useless. It absolutely relies on electronics to have any offroad capability, in contrast to say the other three vehicles which have lockable centre diffs and decent flex, not computer-controlled. There is no way to disable just ESC on it. "Ice mode" is/was a problem also on the Nissan 370Z for similar reasons. Electronics are not always good...
Hi Rob - it would be interesting to see if you can get an official response from Land Rover engineering HQ. Surely they can reprogram the software over the air so that ‘DSC off’ really does mean ‘off’. Can’t be that hard, even if you have to press a disclaimer button to absolve them of potential drivetrain damage, I’d still rather have full and uninterrupted power when I really need it.
ha that's exactly what I've proposed for years! but we are edge cases so it won't happen, and it seems JLR is more interested in lifestyle events and fragrances than ceding control of their cars to the owners. I doubt I could get any response that would be meaningful, probably just a "we optimise our cars..." etc. Their business model is their own call, and I'm not going to say it's wrong, but it's not aligned with what I do.
Yeah, it’s a shame. I wonder if LR Australia would fly the flag on behalf of local off-roaders. No doubt you’ve tried that too.
Too much of a niche market and not their focus. The last L663 special edition came with a surfboard and the last owner event was at Byron Bay.
Interesting and well presented Robert. The Dynamic Stability Control (DSC) in the Defender can be selectively switched off in all off-road modes except Auto terrain response. Am I correct in understanding that is still operating to some extent?
Yes parts of it appear to still be active. ESC has levels of sensitivity - in road modes it will interven early and permit little slip. In offroad modes it will allow more slip. However, if it is not entirely off, eventually its limits will be reached and it will activate. Pressing the "off" button doesn't necessarily mean switching if off like a lightbulb. Different TR modes have different calibrations for ESC (or DSC in Land Rover terms) and you can reduce it even more with the Off switch. In sand for example, I would run Sand mode (most of the time) and DSC additionally off as far as it'd let me.
I’ve found that the new Defender can be limited by DSC, so it’s worth trying to turn off at the switch. The terrain response settings also affects its operation. I would try Rock Crawl which locks the centre and rear diffs and keep a steady throttle trying a steady 2000 rpm to start. The Defenders don’t respond well to an on/off throttle technique in my experience, loss of momentum due to this can often result in a failed climb. Using this I’ve climbed some steep ascents with only one wheel having traction. Wheels do leave the ground frequently. Low traction launch can be handy in the right circumstances too. 👍 Great work!
I’ve found that the new Defender can be limited by DSC, so it’s worth trying to turn off at the switch. The terrain response settings also affects its operation. I would try Rock Crawl which locks the centre and rear diffs and keep a steady throttle trying a steady 2000 rpm to start. The Defenders don’t respond well to an on/off throttle technique in my experience, loss of momentum due to this can often result in a failed climb. Using this I’ve climbed some steep ascents with only one wheel having traction. Wheels do leave the ground frequently. Low traction launch can be handy in the right circumstances too. 👍 Great work!
Wow I didn't think the Patrol was going to be that good.
Why not?
The Y62 is awesome off road in rutty sandy wombat holes, leave the second best vehicle (the Y61) for dust. Surprising for such a big vehicle with independent suspension. I think it gets it's advantage from a longer wheelbase than all the other vehicles that dig the wombat holes and the excellent flex keeping the massive tyres on the ground.
Whats wrong with a good solid drive train and mechanical diff locks. Or is it just me.
Nothing at all!
On the Defender it's not ESC, you have DSC which can be turned off with the press of a button with all of the off-road driving modes with the exception of AUTO. Owning an L663 and becoming very familiar with its off-road driving style likely would have fixed the vehicle from cutting power going up the hill.
DSC is simply Land Rovers term for ESC. DSC cannot be fully disabled and most cars do disable it entirely in low range. Not Land Rover.
@@L2SFBC correct.
Defender was in the wrong mode for the terrain. Also you have to do one of 2 things with it, momentum in the right mode, or crawl and let it do the things it thinnks it needs to to get forward motion, as long as it doesn't massively belly, it should do the hill. Be aware that it might take a little while to go into extended mode on the EAS, Like the P38 and on, it's not user selectable so it's something it has to do. Like a lot of modern vehicles with mode selection, if the user selects wrong, then the vehicle will not perform optimally. For that hill I'd have selected "mud and ruts".
Again the terms of "oversteer" and "understeer" used incorrectly as the car in the manufacturer video is skidding not understeering or oversteering, it will do one or the other it is impossible for then to do both as it's down to steering and suspension geometry not other forces applied to the vehicle. You cannot define whether a vehicle over or under steers if the vehicle is in a skid. Over or uner or neutral steer can only be calculated when all wheels have full traction. Here is an example that most will understand, a vehicle with a locker engaged will tend to understeer because the locked front axle is trying to keep the vehicle travelling in a straight line. Another example is when the steering rack is in front of the axle, the outer wheel is pulled in greater than the arc for the correct track, so the vehicle actually turns tighter than the average arc of both wheels, that is oversteer. If the tracking is too far toe out, the vehicle will understeer, if it is too far toe in it will oversteer. anything else is a skid and should be treated as such in theory and practicals as it teaches you to drive better.
It was in mud ruts. Different modes were tried. However no special mode selection should be necessary if the car is in low range it should not have ESC enabled regardless of mode.
Learn to drive off road and not rely on expensive rubbish vehicles..👍🏻😂
Even with the poor driving of the LC 300, the Toyota it's clarly superior about suspensión articulation
I honestly don't think I could be happy owning a vehicle like this . These systems do work. However, it's simply just software trying to replicate hardware and seems to provide inconsistent performance, making the car feel like it's broken. Is it misfiring, or is it just cutting power? Just give me a simple vehicle with good suspension and a solid drivetrain so I have consistent performance, and I will be happy and focus more on gaining skills rather than pushing buttons on a touchscreen trying to find what is the best mode.
I agree to a large extent. I would like a vehicle which has a solid foundation of mechanical-only, augmented by electronics. The LC300 embodies this well - with no electronics at all, I could certainly still get places in it, but with, it is amazing. The Defender is the opposite, without electronics, it is nothing.
You can do everything in that video in the patrol with out using any of the driving programmes. Just leave it in normal on road mode, lock it in, decide wether you need low or high range, into drive then go. The patrol is only one of a few vehicles that also still has active traction control in the front if you have rear locker engaged. That 300 series is the gr so it has lockers front and back if required. Also the drivers in this video need to learn how to use throttle control so they maintain momentum and also let the traction control do its thing.
@@L2SFBCthat is supposedly the whole idea behind the Grenadier.
@@Stevegrande1 my 1999 ep91 Toyota Starlet has brake traction control left foot braking look what they can do in the UK two-wheel drive trials.
Absolutely!!
Does the LR3 have the same problem as the LR4
Yes
Very informative, well done again. 4wding needs to be a balanced combo between tech and driver.
Absolutely
So, what did we find in all these tests? Oh, yeah The Toyota Land Cruiser is still The King .
Patrol y62 all time best capible offroader best traction 5🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟
Grenadier has small wheels. Should be at least 33 and designed to fit 35 without any extra costs and headaches. No go for me
Ooh I see all the Land Rover haters. Haters gonna hate.
No one out there who hates the defender is doubting the off-road capabilities… the car ist superb… the haters hate it because of the lack of reliability when you are out in the bush.
This is a very fair comment but unfortunately there are some who stil doubt the Defender's rough terrain ability.
The Defender it's a brick with wheels... lol.... nonarticulation at all... it's like a boat
wheres the diesel G wagon
with the Wrangler
Defender have a very poor suspensión articulation
my 07 pajero would climb that hill no problem. 😂
Of course it would ✔️
Calm down!!
They are all over priced school run vehicles now…..
The more I watch those pretenders off road the more I detest the terrible damn things!!
Land Rover lost their sense of direction for sure!
Those vehicles are purely rubbish!!
No they are not.
Have you actually driven one or are just one of those people I just laugh at cause they really don't have any idea? I have one and taken it up far worse than what is shown in these videos in both wet and dry conditions. The only problem I have had is a slow leak from the factory tyres, and that was fixed by buying some decent LT tyres, which I think just about every new 4x4 has the same issue. Every 4x4 I have owned since the late 80's has required me to relearn the best way to drive it offroad, and guess what the new Defender is no different and it has been a steep learning curve. I have not had the problem yet with losing power driving up rock faces or wet badly rutted and slippery muddy tracks worse than the one in this video, so I am not sure why this Defender does this, but so far mine has not, and I have driven up places in it that other vehicles struggled to drive up.
300's overrated and overpriced.
GXL is now 120k 😮
Simply bullshit!
Really? Some people have said it's horseshit, what makes you think it's bullshit?